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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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2792612 No.2792612 [Reply] [Original]

I wanna make a fly-weight enclosed multi-purp trailer, but still keep it foldable, and thus easy to store, with semi-removable structure, based on Harbor Freight.

But I want it bigger than 4x8, and to keep it fold-able pretty much limits plywood floor to 5/8", if that, more like 1/2".

Plan to make it about 6'6" wide, with extra steel frames under main frame about same as tongue frame to support the 1'3" over-hangs, and so the wheels would be sorta enclosed (but seems like could still be got to, maybe with a socket). I'd probably add extra steel with self tappers, then when its all figured out and plywood and test folded, etc, take it a welder to glue up everything, including the "factory" framing for extra strength.

Also might extend the back about 1' or little more, because WTF not. Maybe make a big full size rear door also a loading ramp, but it looks like the whole trailer could tip when Tongue Pins are pulled, but probably lot nicer to load with ramp into otherwise level trailer. Going for maybe 6'4" standing headroom, so Ramp would be 6'4".

Might have vertical rear 'streamlined' clam-shell doors AFTER the rear main-hatch/ramp, that would swing forward and attach to sides of trailer when parked and open, mostly for light high bulk storage like sleeping bags and hanging clothes.
Might have a mode where rear-ramp can be supported from its rear-hatch frame by chain and serve as Patio, or have rear ramp horizontal and swing clam-shell storage space over it, for one big internal space.

Not sure about the front, but semi-streamlined starting at front main-frame steel, maybe with small side door.

>> No.2792613

Yes, lots of volume for a very minimal trailer, and not for heavy duty use. Maybe this shit for main body walls and roof, with PVC pipe or other dis-mountable frames. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-12-ft-Corrugated-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-in-White-101892/100041353
Doesn't need to be 110% water tight when being towed, but should be mostly rain tight and fairly dust tight when parked for extended period.

Primary uses would be:
1)Storage Unit I can legally park on the street when attached to one of my other motor-vehicle beater "storage on the street" units (neighbors luv me!, no really, LOL, I'm that guy who can move couches for them or pick up bikes from shop, etc).
2)Small construction site/security office.
3)Camping and SHTF emergency housing.

Thots, opinions and recommendations?

>> No.2792660
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2792660

>>2792612
buy a bigger trailer

>> No.2792860

>>2792613
Making it flyweight is the worst part of the idea, but
you will learn enough by attempting it to refine future trailers.

What towing speed is intended? Examine trailers which do what you want but are not flyweight to see why they are not flyweight.

>> No.2792897

Let's make it out of titanium

>> No.2793169

>>2792860
WTF is wrong with flyweight? I've got a Prius Prime and I'm in CA 'Frisco Gay Area so we don't really have weather.
I could live with max towing speed of 65mph, since speed limit even on hwy for towing is 55mph.
Super Duty HF trailer is rated for 1750lbs and weighs 275lbs, and about 400-500lbs structure including some underneath trays.

Might use metal framing studs for loop frames.

Saw a youtube where a couple of guys built very cheap trailer out of IIRC 1/2 plywood which they covered with fabric (bedsheets?) then regular wood glue, then painted with house paint.

>> No.2793555

>>2793169
Ultralight means not durable and the HF is already rather delicate but you may as well build and learn. Whatever you build should be very flexible since those trailers are far from stiff.

Lots of people build shit for views. The lack of such being in general service is telling.

>> No.2793665

>>2793555
thx, what do you think about adding welds and a few cross pieces at corners?
I'd like to keep it still foldable but once its otherwise bolted together I think welds and maybe even a stiffener on the flat deck might help.

Like I said, it will be mostly just storage on street or parking lot office, not a "working trailer" on the roads.

I guess I'll have to dig into various HF trailer reviews. IIRC at least one other company makes a folding 4x8 trailer, slightly better so they say.

>> No.2794170

Teardrops n tiny trailers is an awesome website and has detailed instructions for modifying the HF folding trailer.

It really is puny, I went with a TSC 5x8 instead and never regretted it.

>> No.2794196
File: 154 KB, 1024x768, 4768415645_fcb8567563_b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2794196

>>2792612
pic looks flimsy, should use fancier materials and construction techniques if you want it to be really light yet sturdy

>> No.2794200

>>2792612
I don't think you understand the anon who told you to buy a bigger trailer. HF stuff is pretty weak to begin with and if you had the engineering background to figure out how to make one bigger you wouldn't have to ask. However, if you take a big trailer and make it smaller then if your welds are good it'll be stronger and last longer. So find a trailer with your featureset that's too long etc and ask a welder to shorten it. Please pay attention to the balance point of course.

>> No.2795553

I guess if I was smart I'd start with something like this, and forget the folding and easy-storing feature, since once I build a structure, even if I do some magic to make it EZ-Take-Down, chances of me actually doing that are sorta fading.

Instead of "dismount to store" just keep the fucker as is and store other shit inside, and find cheap, rough RV storage. I really don't see needing to store it too long, just in between moves maybe. I figure if I value my time at $5/hr LOL, I'd be better off spending another $800 to get a real trailer, and also be able to make a more real structure, and likely save money on that end by not attempting crazy dis-mountable nonsense.

>> No.2795554

>>2795553
>I guess if I was smart I'd start with something like this,
https://www.karavantrailers.com/product/5x10ft-steel-utility-trailer