/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I'm trying to replace my shower curtain with a glass panel I salvaged from a shower door.
I don't want it to hinge, it perfectly fits on half the bathtub. Tried Lowe's, home despot and Amazon. Where the fuck can I get brackets to hold 1/4in glass that are NOT hinges?
Also is there any way to have the tub support some of the weight without having to drill it?

>>2771135
>home despot

they have it.

>>2771135
>have the tub support some of the weight without having to drill it?

i wouldnt trust an adhesive for that.
definitely would want screws.
however if you place one channel vertically on the wall, then it'll help keep it from sliding sideways, somewhat.

>>2771135
The reason those glass things generally hinge is so if someone smacks one, it moves out of the way a bit instead of shattering. I'd screw in the wall support at least, then silicone the fucker in.

What's the best metal for rings? I wanted to make some out of bronze, but I hear it can make your skin green if it gets sweaty.

I figure SS would be good, but it's a hassle to work with, and gold is too expensive. What's the best cheap hard metal that doesn't mind prolonged skin contact, and I can buy it easily in pipes of varying diameter?

>>2771135
go to a glass shop and buy a channel of the correct size with the rubber insert so the glass doesn't; contact the metal.
screw one channel to the wall and silicone caulk as glue for the bottom channel to the tub rim.
when everything fits, use silicone caulk to glue it into the rubber lined channel.

>>2771135
>Tried Lowe's, home despot and Amazon.
Go to Amazon. Put the following into the search bar:
Adjustable 304 Stainless Steel Glass Clip Clamp Support
select the one that suits you

You guys know those electric scooters that are strewn around the city? What's preventing me from picking a few up with my van and disassembling them somewhere for the parts? If they have trackers couldn't I just drive into a forest or something and disassemble them there and then drive the disassembled scooters with my van to my workshop? How come you don't see any criminal enterprises based around that?

>>2771183
You better disassemble them fast because if they see a bunch of them together going at 45mph in the back of a pickup truck, somebody may try to catch you before you get into it.

Also there’s cameras everywhere in urban areas so good luck not getting seen with a pickup bed full of stolen scoots. Better have a mask and stolen plates.

>>2771189
ok, but I can just throw one into my closed off van and do it, right? What if I disassemble it in my van? What if I have a driver buddy that drives me out of town while I disassemble the scooter in the closed off back of my van and when the gps thing is disconnected he drives me back to our garage? I'm not saying I'd do this I'm just saying it seems like a profitable criminal endeavor.

>>2771191
The problem is those scooters are always in urban areas, and city streets and storefronts are like 90% covered by cameras, whether it’s retail shops and restaurants or traffic cameras.

If I were to try to snag one, I would rent one first and take a couple panels off and try to figure out the fastest way to cut power, maybe then the GPS module loses power too. That way if you see one in a spot with no cameras around, you could cut the power before even moving it.

>>2771189
>so good luck not getting seen with a pickup bed full of stolen scoots.

Nobody would pay any attention because someone has to collect them and carry them to a place to be recharged. One of the places where I run has a sidewalk where the recharger idiot drops them off, and he'll put like 10 of them all sideways so they block the whole sidewalk. That's a good enough reason to swipe them all.

>>2771200
I was going to say you might fuck over dude who is trying to make an extra $200 a week recharging them. No clue how much responsibility they put on those guys when stuff goes missing.

>>2771183
It's very easy to trace.

If you dress like a workman, scope out the area for cameras first, and build a faraday cage in your van, you're good. Anyone takes your license plate, or the cops start looking into it enough and find sightings of the same van at 5+ locations where a scooter goes missing? You're getting buttfucked. Get fake plates and you could make a career out of it though, at least until you get baited into a sting operation by some feds.

>>2771158
silver, gold, copper. you can make them out of silver spoons, you can buy sheets of any metal in various thickness at hobby stores. quarters are solid copper which makes a good slug for spheres, not so much for rings. you can also use gold coated wire to make bead rings.

any of the top 4, silver, gold, brass, silver can be soldered easily and then shaped/sized on a mandrel. there are two types of ring mandrel one is sloped one is stepped. a jewelry coping saw and plate are pretty essential for cutting your ring strips if you're not doing salvage e.g. silverware.

>>2771191
how much is salvageable for profit tho? I mean they apparently crank those out by the 1000s, apart from saving yourself a few bucks on batteries and motors what is the aftermarket to make it profitable?

I'd drive around, find a random scooter and throw it in my van then drive somewhere semi remote and dump it. Park and stakeout the scooter or set up your own trail cam. See how long it takes them to reclaim it. It's probably days before they react and at the rate people vandalize them there is no way they can prosecute everyone who fucks with a scooter. Honestly I think you're over thinking shit, you could just pick them up and start salvaging. They're under $2k each so it's not a felony, and probably not even something they'd prosecute considering a grocery cart at target is worht more and the cops won't do shit about that.

>>2771183
>What's preventing me from picking a few up with my van and disassembling them somewhere for the parts?

Growing up with your father in your house would be a start.

Don't be a piece of shit.

What does halving a vac hose length do to the actual unit, is it better for the vacuum while getting more suction? There is no downside right? Mostly asking about any extra wear & tear.

I want to make two of picrel and then connect them with a wooden grid so I can stake my tomatoes to it.
My stupid question is what is the best way to attach two 2"x2" timbers at the circled area (will I need ticker?) so that it doesn't fall apart in case some horizontal load is applied to the whole structure (I imagine not much force is needed at the top, so that the bottom breaks and wind might be a concern although I am planning to use it on a balcony)?

I have a power supply with an 80mm fan. It's loud and I hate it. I have a spare 140mm fan. If I print a cone shaped adapter so it has a proper fit should the 140mm work fine as a replacement/upgrade?

>>2771309
Simpson Strong-Tie RTA2Z 2x Rigid Tie Connector

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RTA-16-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-Rigid-Tie-Angle-for-2x-Nominal-Joist-Post-RTA2Z/100375168

>>2771309

I finally graduated from rentoid to home owner.
So a) I'm out of money and b) I gotta start a workshop from scratch (well, I got a corded drill (Bosch green, works good enough), a cordless drill (Metabo, made in Germany so really old, was good enough for using it twice a month in an apartment, but the battery is fucked, as is the gearbox, so that needs replacing) and an old Black&Decker jigsaw, a bunch of hand tools, ranging from no name to wera).
So what's the basic stuff I should look into getting, mostly for random this-and-that around the house (it's an OK house, but of course it's a bit of a fixer-upper) and some minor furniture building, i.e. mostly wood work. What I think is needed the most is a table saw and a cordless drill.

>>2771326
Buy things when you actually need them.
Whether its a fun project, or its a house repair, when planning youll know what tools and materials you need.

You say you have limited funds right now. Buying your first home is expensive.
So why go buy a whole bunch of tools youll maybe use a few years from now?

Use your disposable cash wisely, find projects you want to build and buy the tools to build them.
Dont buy 10 different 3/8" ratchets or 10 different pair of pump pliers or 10 different screwdriver sets and post pictures of them on 4channel.

>>2771352
>>2771326
Yes but if you know you’re going to need a tool for a project that needs to get done in the next 6mos, buy that shit when it’s on sale. Especially cordless tools. And with cordless tools, buy into a brand that has everything you need if possible, it’s a lot cheaper to have 2-3 batteries that can run a dozen different tools.

But anon is in Yurop and I’m not sure they get as many 40%+ off deals on stuff.

Also, anon, don’t waste money on mediocre Wera stuff just because their social media campaign has a lot of Redditors giving 5 stars to shit that has never been used.

>>2771356
>don’t waste money on mediocre Wera stuff just because their social media campaign has a lot of Redditors giving 5 stars to shit that has never been used.
Wera is a very popular long time household name here in europe, not sure reddit has anything to do with it

>>2771326
Also with the table saw and stuff, #1 is you can make most of those cuts with a circular saw, just not as efficiently. #2… check out your local used market because you might find a recently-widowed boomer lady trying to clear her dead husband’s bullshit out of the garage. I got a cheap bench grinder from one of those and was super tempted to grab the table saw she had for like $100. Main brands should run a long ass time, maybe they need some new $5-$10 brushes and will be good to go again.

>tfw you do the clearance shopping and get like a decade worth of good saw blades for a DIYer for about $40
Was like $7-$8 for the 2pks of circ saw blades and about $20 for a 2pk of 10” blades that cost $39 each if you buy them the day you need em.

>>2771359
Pretty much everything but their screwdrivers is shitty, especially considering the cost. Don’t fall for the meme designs where they tried to reinvent the wrench and made it worse.

>>2771361
>Pretty much everything but their screwdrivers is shitty
Says who exactly, because its not been my experience.
I have Wera tools from before Reddit even existed. Every tradesman I know uses them and holds them in high regard.

You are literally the first person ive ever heard say that.

>>2771352
>Buy things when you actually need them.
Obviously.
But there's some basic equipment you always kinda need. As said, a drill and a table saw is stuff I'm pretty sure I immidiately need. And I don't wanna get caught with my pants down, so to say, on a sunday afternoon, going
>fuck, I need some pliers.
Plus
>>2771356
>buy that shit when it’s on sale
this. And the point on
>buy into a brand that has everything you need if possible, it’s a lot cheaper to have 2-3 batteries that can run a dozen different tools.
is something I'm looking into too. Trying to figure out what I'll likely need/want besides the ubiquitous drill and if I can get that in the battery system I'm going to marry into.
>>2771356
>Also, anon, don’t waste money on mediocre Wera stuff just because their social media campaign has a lot of Redditors giving 5 stars to shit that has never been used.
Never occured to me that Wera is a reddit brand. Always saw them as some old german brand (like wiha) that's apparently good enough for pro use, yet has lots of good enough consumer stuff.
>>2771360
>used
sure, that's an option too, especially for table saws, assuming I can figure out what's good enough and what isn't. No need to buy some used parkside or some overprized I-know-what-i-have bosch green, but I guess if I find some Erika for cheap, assuming everyone gues
>huh? Who names a saw Erika? Must be some chink shit.
I can't do much wrong.

>>2771364
Do they use anything beyond the screwdrivers and bits?

If they have the ratchets and wrenches, it’s sort of a sunken cost fallacy. Too proud to admit they made a poor decision and blaming the hardware when their Joker(tm) wrench slips or thinking it’s normal that your ratchet doesn’t fit sockets from other brands because “the machining on those other sockets must suck”.

Meanwhile in the US, where we have a good selection of the best tool truck stuff and industrial brands and affordable mechanic-focused Taiwan made tools, Reddit is relegated to knoife collectors looking to add some color to their EDC, but people in the trades who were tricked by the social media campaign are often disappointed because there are far better offerings for the money.

Wera on Amazon is hilarious because 80% of it is 5 star reviews from redditors making unboxing vids and the other 20% is people in the trades who got it on a recommendation from their cousin who makes unboxing vids and say shit like “It’s ok, but for the money I wish I just went with Klein” or “The ratchet blew out on me after 2 weeks in the shop and cost almost as much as the Snap On that lasted me 20 years”

>>2771366
>Never occured to me that Wera is a reddit brand.
Dont let him kid you. Knipex's popularity came in large part from Reddit circlejerking. Go to /r/tools and almost every post has someone talking about how great Knipex is. He doesnt like to acknowledge that though.

>>2771366
I just realized, I actually do have a table saw, came with the house, but yeah, no.

>>2771369
So your only advice is, got to carboot sales and buy tools. Just dont buy Wera, or Stahwille or Bahco or Beta. All longstanding popular european companies with a good track record.

And your reasoning is because of a youtube video and reddit?
Fucking tosser

>>2771366
Bosch Green seems to be the DIYer brand. Is it expensive for you? Because from what I have seen on the interwebs, Bosch Green isn’t really any better than Parkside.

A lot of Yuros around here go with Parkside or Einhell for DIYer stuff because it’s good enough and everything else is prohibitively expensive. If you can get Blue Bosch, DeWalt, or Makita and stick with it, that would be cool, but it’s going to suck if it costs you 300€ for a base model 18V drill when the Parkside will work just fine for your needs.

As for the corded stuff like table saws, miter saws, etc, just try to find a brand you recognize if you see any used offerings. You can often find parts for those big tools pretty easily even if they’re a few years old. You can find parts for cordless tools as well, but as far as the newet tools, like a brushless drill with a fried trigger-board assembly, the cost of a new assembly can be liike 70% the cost of a whole new drill. But if it works with a fucked up chuck, that’s a cheap replacement.

>>2771370
Except it’s actually sold at plumbing outfits and stores for people who do real work. I didn’t buy my first Knipex pliers until a normie friend in the trades recommended it to me. And Knipex Cobras are actually better than the competition, which can’t really be said about most of the non-screwdriver Wera tools.

>>2771375
>Bosch Green seems to be the DIYer brand. Is it expensive for you? Because from what I have seen on the interwebs, Bosch Green isn’t really any better than Parkside.
>A lot of Yuros around here go with Parkside or Einhell for DIYer stuff because it’s good enough and everything else is prohibitively expensive.
So you pretty much have no experience or any clue what you are talking about. Just posting something you think you remember reading from an actual european on google somewhere?

Thanks for the help ChatGPT

>>2771372
I'd tidy that one up since it's made of standard steel stock (tough, easy to modify) and replace the wood. That style stand also can mount other accessories like a DIY grinding stone mandrel (I no longer use stones much and instead run angle grinder flap abrasives on my bench grinder too.)

>>2771373
Nah, you missed the ball on that one. Know what you’re buying and get down on the good tools from the brand that does them well if you’re willing to pay a premium.

But I guess maybe Yuros do make shitty wrenches?

Bahco has some solid stuff, look for the Bahco that’s basically rebranded Snap On and you will be good. Facom has some good mechanic’s tools too, or that USAG brand as they’re the French and Italian rebrands of Mac Tools.

Don’t shop for tools based on the color of the handles or the “creatively engineered” retarded design like Wera.

>>2771381
kek this is definitely somebody with a Wera collection and a green Bosch glue gun made for Aunt Helga’s crafts and really wants to defend the purchases.

Bosch Green is most definitely homeowner and hobbyist duty stuff and nothing like the Blue.

>>2771381
U like bby? ;^)

>>2771366
Basic cased tool kits of decent quality go a very long way. I don't go autismo on tools and mine range from my lathe and mill down to a cheap 1/4" drive six-point socket set I keep with my small engine and motorcycle carb tool kit because duplication can be extremely handy.

Slow relentless accumulation of (known suited to the task) useful tools, consumables and equipment bought opportunistically saves gobs of money. For example one auction got me a lifetime supply of emery cloth in the form of sanding belts no one else wanted to buy because they did not fit their small machines.

I keep a box of plumbing tools and a few tubs of fittings, clamps, valves, hoses and garden hose adapter fittings (so I can bypass any of my plumbing during repair and renovation by using farm grade (buy nothing less unless stoopid cheap because farm grade is UV resistant and tough) garden hose.

I keep an electrical equipment box similarly. My trucks all have tool kits and my main shop covers all heavy vehicle maintenance and of course fabbing more shop equipment and storage (like hanging shelves for inside my shipping container shops).

>>2771383
>Know what you’re buying and get down on the good tools from the brand that does them well if you’re willing to pay a premium.
How far up the picture in >>2771361 do I have to go before its a "good" brand. What youtube channel must I parrot before I know whats good?

>and really wants to defend the purchases.
Im just sitting here listening to you post pictures claiming all these proper european brands are garbage. Talk about how great all the US brands are.

Then you make it abundantly clear you have no clue about anything.
You dont even know how much any of this stuff costs, just say "buy the more expensive stuff"

Its funny how confident you are while being completely clueless.

>>2771387
You are going to need a lot more export tools than that if you want to be a Parkside salesperson on the internet

Shouldnt you be posting pictures of your vaunted US tool truck brands?

>>2771392
If Arnold sold red Gedore, I would be shilling that!

Poor Yuros, stuck defending Green Bosch, the line that is obviously built for moderate weekender duty.

>>2771364
I've heard of reddit-tier tools being shitty, and by that I mean EDC tools that are too small for the job they're meant to do, all-in-one tools that aren't as good at any one thing, that sort of thing. But that probably applies to every brand. A good set of individual screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, etc. from any non-chinkshit brand should be perfectly fine for 99% of uses.

In some cases you do want a more convenient tool, like a screwdriver that stores bits inside it, or a T-handle ratcheting bit holder, in which case I recommend shopping about to find one that's particuarly solid, ergonomically sensible, and doesn't have any glaring design flaws. Too often they try to go too far with these designs, my T-handle has a quarter inch drive on one side of the handle, making it less ergonomic by adding something I'd never use. I should 3D print a cover for it out of TPU.

>>2771397
You think you are making a joke, but your wholly arbitrary and baseless opinions on whats good or not isnt that far off from "Schwarzenegger was in their ad so its good"

Parkside stuff is the same exact level of tool as Bosch Green, yet here you are claiming its better for some unknown reason. Its hilarious

>>2771404
It’s because the Wera stuff besides the screwdriver is all just “ok”, and in the US, even though the prices here aren’t crazy from importers, you can get Asian made sockets and ratchets of the same quality for about 1/3 of the price of the Wera.

And the stuff where they try to reinvent the wheel just doesn’t work well. Gearwrench tried it with their ratcheting flare nut wrenches as well. Shit works good on some German design bench and test rig, but not in the trades.

This stupid little bit set was like $90, and the biggest appeal to it is the neat storage system, but the holders for a bunch of the pieces are made of shitty plastic that doesn’t hold up to any real use. Gearwrench or Sunex will sell you a micro ratchet kit for $20-$35, Icon has a decent set like this for $30-$40, and even the Japan-made Tone kit on Amazon is less than half the price of the Wera.

>>2771407
Nah they’re all weekender brands. Never said Parkside was a pro brand. I’m saying don’t put Green Bosch on a pedestal because it says “Bosch”

I'm a cheap bastard, would some JB weld fix this and withstand the elements for an extended period of time or should I just get off my ass and go to the hardware store?
I learned the hard way I didn't need to wrench down on it for a solid ground connection.

>>2771454
Replace it. The small area will fail easily and good grounds matter.

>>2771164
This guy knows.

>>2771183
>>2771189
>>2771225
Don't discuss criminal enterprises. The smart ones will figure it out themselves, and the dummies will get caught no matter what.

>>2771297
A good vac can run for extended periods with no load (motor out of can, used as a leaf blower for instance) and somewhat indefinitely when plugged and fully obstructed. In case of problem there is a thermal protection too: a $0.25 part that acts like a fuse. Get a name brand Shop Vac or a reputable alternative like Husky, Ridgid, Mastervac in Canada... You get the point.

A crappy vac will just shit itself one way or another.

>>2771388
>For example one auction got me a lifetime supply of emery cloth in the form of sanding belts
Similarly, I got an 18" sander that takes 1" wide belts. Stores don't typically carry that size, so I bought 3" belts that I cut in strips using a utility knife. It cost a fraction of what the 1" belt sells for online.

>>2771454
You could totally JB that tho.

how tf are you supposed to use these? I found them in the road and unlike normal channel locks they slip position as you close them so you can never actually get them tight. I cannot get them to grip anything, not even a big hex nut. I swear I'm not fucking stupid, are they broken?

>>2771454
yeah some JB shouldn't affect the grounding wire making contact at all.

>>2771297
the only thing you lose is some spring if it's a corregated tube, which is important for wet vac so they don't get hammered by jamming them in water.

also if you have more suction with a shorter hose then there is something wrong with your hose.

>>2771454
throw the broken part away
put the ground wire between the ground rod and the clamp
tighten clamp

profit!

>>2771536
Normally they lock into a position along the serrated rail in the center, looks like they've been run over by a few vehicles and the locking mechanism damaged. Probably not very easily repaired, and not particularly worth it since they're like $15-20 anyway

>>2771536
Take it apart and see, but it's probably broken. Those either have a button that has to be held down in order for the parts to slide, or they'll only slide when the handles are swivelled open due to the geometry of the cross-shaft. I'd guess the former based on that groove pattern, the latter ones usually have a bunch of half-circles in the channel or on the intersecting faces. Might be fixable, I'd guess it to be a broken wave-spring, or maybe ingress of something really sticky. Give it a wash with a solvent, see if that yellow gunk budges.

>>2771164

Thanks.

Not sure if this is the right board, but how "beginner-friendly" is beekeeping (for honey)? I have experience with hens and the usual pets, but that's about it

>>2771611
Well from what I've read on /an/ it isn't the stings you have to worry about, it's your neighborhood using pesticides.

>>2771612
That makes sense. We do have quite a few wild bees in our backyard all the time though, so it can't really be too bad here

>>2771611
>"beginner-friendly" is beekeeping

if an africanized bee swarm takes over your hive, your family is in imminent risk of death.

>>2771536
>Doyle
There’s your problem.

They sound broken though. The button is supposed to unlock the joint. Roadside channies are great when they work.

I was thinking of trying to make a crude sort of duaphram pump using some silicon or rubber pipe with valves at each end then lifting and dropping a large weight over it to compress it and squeeze the water out
The other option I've thought up so far is some sort of channel with a piece of stretched rubber over the top and a length of dowel that gets pushed down onto it causing the diisplacement.
the pipe idea seems easier to plumb together but I don't know how well it'd hold up to the repeated compressions or how much displacement and pressure I could even get out of it
I tried testing a pece of silicon tubing I had available but it's off an old vaccuum pipe line so the walls are too thick to work

Just wondering if this is retarded or whether it .

>>2771672
*Diaphram pump

>>2771315
Hard to say because sometimes distance matters with fans because of static pressure. Like if you have a box fan and strap a filter directly on the back it'll sort of work as an air filter but not as well as if you have a cube made of air filters and strap it so the air has some distance to pull. If it's a thing that might cause a fire, do the more annoying/safer thing.

>>2771315
>what are RPMs
even another 80mm fan might not work. it depends on if it's loud because it's strong or it's loud because it's a piece of shit. for case cooling I wouldn't think twice about swapping a 140 with cone in, but for a direct PSU cooler I'd spend the time to find a whisper version that has the same CFMs or whatever. yes Dorthy you'll have to take your case and psu apart and actually read it.

AHHHHH

I can’t get this fucking stupid pulley off the motor and it’s driving me nuts

I’ve tried using a puller like in vid
https://youtu.be/c9uzM_Wz8jw
I’ve tried wacking it with a hammer and crowbar and nothing

What the fuck am I supposed to do, any tips?? Some suggestions are torching the outer rim and watering it to remove

>>2771711
What went wrong with the puller tool? Did it break? That’s one of the things about cheap pullers, they’re often weak and fail when you really need them to work.

I would say heat the pulley around the shaft, give it some PB or wax or whatever, then heat again and try a better puller. Air hammer could help get it going too.

>>2771711
>What the fuck....

if you can turn the motor face down, you can try to remove some rust on the shaft/pulley using electrolysis.
like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1l3Dt5-zxPs

>>2771711
post pics

>>2771713
Doing an engine swap and need to salvage the pulley to transfer it over to new one. It’s a rammer

The pulley clutch itself is $200 so saving this one is a must I’ve already chipped one side of the fucking fin but it’s not a big deal. The puller just isn’t moving it whatsoever and feels like it’s bending the pulley rim instead. I’ll try blasting it with heat when I go out there
>>2771722
I’ll try to if I head back out there today
>>2771720
Thanks for vid unfortunately it’s a big rammer but I’ll keep this bookmarked for salvaging rusted wrenches

>>2771183
seems a little relevant
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IYu4wzy9Lw

>>2771326
a big miter saw is way more useful than a table saw. sure you can't cut whole panels but otherwise it's pretty much good for everything and so much easier than a circular saw. you want a big one with a long draw so you can cut shelves and wider boards that aren't quite panels.

circular saw as necessary or if funds don't allow a table saw, however once I got a table saw I almost never touched the circular saw again. you can also cut a panel with a jigsaw, it's just again one more step away from the easy straight cut of a table saw but also useful for a lot of other things.

don't forget you can rent tools.

>>2771763
The only tools you should ever rent are stupid automotive tools not worth buying

>>2771763
I did miter saw before table saw too. IMHO, it’s much easier to get a straight rip on a sheet of plywood with a circular saw than it is to get repeatable precise angled cuts. Plus for the random DIY household projects so far, I feel like I’m cutting more dimensional lumber and trim than doing long cuts on plywood. So most of the time for every 1 cut I would want the table saw for, I’m making 5-10 cuts with the miter saw. But might be different for anon if he’s planning a bunch of plywood projects soon. I still want a table saw, but it’s a lot of real estate in the garage for a tool that I may only want to use twice a year while the miter saw makes at minimum a couple cuts a month.

>>2771764
>this dark skinned lad has never needed a tile saw
extreme ladders, hand cement mixers, tile saws as mentioned, floor stripper, floor polisher, rug cleaner, drain tools bigger than a drill snake, power washer, hammer drill, etc. just because you're a /diy/let who never needed something bigger than a screwdriver doesn't mean it's not a good idea.

>>2771764
Nah there’s a lot of big equipment, especially with gas engines, like if you’re doing your own concrete patio or need to dig some trenches to lay new water lines or electrical. I wouldn’t spend the money on gas engined equipment that might be used once every 5-10 years as a homeowner.

Unless you have mad renovations to do the first year you’re there, then maybe you want to buy a used piece of equipment and sell it off in 6-9 months. That also assumed you have the shop space to store it.

The automotive tools are easier to justify because you can buy cheap Chinese shit that works just fine for a couple jobs and give it to a buddy who needs it a couple years down the line.

>>2771767
>to get repeatable precise angled cuts.
I found feathering in the start, because it's harder to judge on an angle and then consistently torking the saw and arm with your guiding hand helped a lot. There is play so being consistent with that bit of play helped- although I may have had a better miter saw than you too, lol.

>>2771769
I rented a Jeep steering wheel puller but then used it so much I just kept it. It's still in my tool chest, lol. Take that Autozone!

>>2771768
Everyone point at the poorfag who finds tools such at tile saws and pressure washers or hammer drills to be prohibitively expensive.
Anon, you wouldnt rent any of those tools anyways, you wont need them in your double wide.

>>2771769
> like if you’re doing your own concrete patio or need to dig some trenches to lay new water lines or electrical.
If you are too poor to pay a mexican to pour your concrete or dig your trench in 1/50th of the time itll take you, you arent going to want to pay the rental fees on those tools either.
Youll mix your concrete in a bucket and dig your trench with a shovel.

I spent a weekend digging up a septic tank at my friends farmhouse. There was never even a consideration of paying $100+ dollars and travel time to and fro to rent anything.

>>2771775
>and pressure washers
I said power washer you incompetent boob, and buying a tile saw for a single small job is beyond retarded so I can see where you would if you actually did any /diy/.

>>2771782
A tile saw is a fraction of the price of your tiling project. You would know that if you had actually dont any tiling work before.

>>2771763
>a big miter saw is way more useful than a table saw.
That's on my list too, I need to put baseboard (? that thing that "joins" the floor with the wall) in about every single room, but those are rather small cuts, so I thought about going cheap and small with that one. Could probably use a hand one for that, but turns out they're hard to get and even more expensive than a cheap metabo one.
But I wanna built some absis/walk in closet thingy into the pitched roof area which means working with big plywood slabs, and that probably wouldn't work with a mite saw. Sure, I can do it with a jigsaw, but I've now lived years with cuts that look like ass because a table saw is rather impractical in a small apartment and fuck that. DeWalt DW745 seems neat, but that is discontinued. Is the DWE7485 the "new and improved" version of that one? Whats the QS in the name mean?

Why have mods removed the poster ip count figure?
This seems to have happened on monday the 11th at some time I can't determine?


What reason is there to remove this figure? If this is a permanent change I see that it will likely prevent quick analysis of the posting ratio perhaps allowing for more botspam.

>>2771771
Muh <$300 Ryobi 10” slider works gud enough for me. My point was that the angled cuts always suck ass with a regular skil saw. Straight cuts too. Especially if I tried my last project with a ton of 1x2 cuts on cheaper rough boards from HD. The first time I ever used the miter saw was to build the workbench in this garage, and it has to go around a notch in the wall where the fuse panel is, and I was so fuckin amazed when all of the inside and outside 45deg cuts and measurements actually lined up during assembly.

>>2771787
Maybe if you only plan to do one bathroom reno for 20 years and don’t have any tile floors it would be worth renting. But as mentioned with the cheap Chinese specialty tools, you can get the Skil 7” wet tile saw for <$100 all day on Amazon, and I may know from experience that a 7-1/4” wood blade fits on there no problem for slower cuts on small thin boards if you really want to. That bitch went through landscape pavers too, although I had to cut the front and back to make it work with a 7” blade.

How can I make an electrical connection and secure a hose to this fitting? It's only 1/4" in diameter so hose clamps are too big plus I can't find any adapters. It's not going to be under a lot of pressure so I thought about soldering a cable lug to it and clamping a hose with a wire

>>2771772
>I rented a Jeep steering wheel puller but then used it so much I just kept it. It's still in my tool chest, lol.
You mean you bought a used puller from Autozone.
Why do you think they charged you up front? That wasn't a rental fee, that was the retail price of the tool they loaned you. You're supposed to return it for a full refund, otherwise you just paid full price for a used tool.

Good job and congratulations on buying a puller from Autozone.
>Take that Autozone!

That's an aerial survey mission btw

>>2771882
Yes, yes it was. I watched it from beginning to end.
This is only part of it. At one time he was making north-south trips about three time the length of those shown.
The south ends were the same - the north ends were 2-1/2 to three times farther up.

>>2771843
Not him but I sawnthe same thing when I rented... I think it was also a gear puller. I thought it was funny and I could see hoe it could be convenient but I did return it

Caulk the gaps or no?

Can't tell if they have joint flashing but it doesn't look like it.

>>2771843
What a toolcuck.

I'm saving myself for a virgin trad steering wheel puller.

>>2771841
>How can I make an electrical connection
touch it with anything conductive
>secure a hose to this fitting?
you 1/4 NPT to hose I'd imagine, might be a few steps to get to garden hose fitting.
>so hose clamps are too big
hose clamps come small enough to smash a pencil, are you sure you have any idea what you are asking?
>plus I can't find any adapters.
did you look anywhere but your grandpa's bits drawer?
>It's not going to be under a lot of pressure
it seems like you are tho
>so I thought about soldering a cable lug to it
for what purpose? wouldn't you want to solder the lug?
>and clamping a hose with a wire
or a zip tie. or just shove it on there with nothing.

this is probably one of those times when you should say what you have and what you are trying to do because what you are asking makes no sense and what you are asking makes less.

like if you can solder why wouldn't you just solder a proper hose connector on?

>>2771930
yes and it doesn't matter

>>2771955
>wind driven rain rolling down your nail perforated weather barrier 8 months of the year doesn't matter

>>2771954
It's a water cooled welding torch, as I said no crazy pressure but can't use plastic, only brass, copper and silicone

I am redoing the drywall in a room. In one corner of the room at some point the ceiling was opened to do some repairs and was patched. When I put up the new drywall in that corner it became apparent that the thickness of the ceiling patch doesn’t match the thickness of he rest of the ceiling. So when I put the drywall up it sits flush against the rest of the ceiling, but has a quarter inch gap in the section where the ceiling patch starts. I am planning on having a moulding on the wall/ceiling joint anyway so is it the end of the world if I just fill that gap with joint compound and move on?

I have an old Straight Razor. It needs sharpening and cleaning. What do?

>>2772052
First you clean it, then you sharpen it

>>2771969
those were two separate answers. yes caulk, and no it doesn't matter if you have weather barrier, you still have to caulk. thanks for your support, I'll be running against Bepis for president of /diy/ later in 2024, I'm glad I have your vote!

>>2772052
admit that you'll never actually use it and put it back in the drawer

>>2772078
already use shavette for years fgt
it sucks i wanna change

>>2771090
what are the minimum tooling and machines needed to make a small engine that would burn used cooking oil and serve in a small garden tire plow?

not sure if this is the right place to ask but if I have way too many herbs growing do I get a freeze drier or a normal food dehydrator to make dried herb mix

Can you solder brass using 99% Sn solder? It just needs electrical conductivity and being leak proof

>>2772100
why would you do that from scratch when there are small engines to be had for free from all kinds of scrap? the mere fact that you don't even understand the scope of the question means it's pointless to answer in detail.

>>2772107
yes.

>>2771990
>but can't use plastic
plastic full of water isn't going to melt that far away from the head you freaking moron.

>>2772112
I didn't think it would melt, but soften or stretch and lose the seal which is already flimsy but thanks for replying

>>2771090
Need a cheap workbench top for doing chemistry at home, and clean work for Mycology(gourmet)
Would love to do stainless, but I understand that stainless gets destroyed by common acids and bases, and its too goddamn expensive for a single thin gauge sheet. Any ideas?
I know chemistry labs sometimes use slate, but I have no clue on where I could source it, and idk how sterile it is.

>>2772154
That's 304 stainless, 316 is acid resistant to some extent, try to find a sheet of it

>>2772154
>chemistry labs sometimes use slate
Chemistry lab countertops are soapstone, not slate.
And I think it'd cost more than a steel countertop.

webstaurantstore dot com (pic related) is usually good for food service products, I've used them for tables and chairs.
Looks like their stainless steel counters are 304 stainless, which according to >>2772156 may not be what you need.
But if you're using it mainly for food, that's probably where I'd start.

>>2772162
I've used acid around 304, it doesn't get destroyed if you clean it in a reasonable amount of time

>>2772162
>$700+ for a workbench top
hahaha, no. I could buy use that money for equipment and consumables, to actually do work with.

>>2772154
>and clean work for Mycology(gourmet)
you grow mushrooms in a tub in your closet, not on a chemistry workbench.

Is there a product available that can toggle more than one connection per throw of a switch? I'm running a few exterior RJ45 ports and I don't want a live jack on the exterior of my house someone could walk by and plug into, but I don't want to unplug/plug the RJ45 in the datacloset every time I want to use it. My idea was to find some sort of "one switch, 8 connector" so when I want it on, I just flick the switch to make all 4 pairs live. Or is there a better way of doing this I'm not thinking of?

Also, this is running into a VPN appliance from work I don't have the ability to down/down the ports on at will.

>>2772206
RJ45 network only uses 2 pairs, I'm pretty sure you only need to interrupt one of those 4 wires for failure. consider a light switch, they don't interrupt all 3 wires, they just interrupt 1.

regardless, just use a bridge and power the bridge off to "disconnect".

>>2772206
You can't just run a device whitelist? I struggle to imagine why you need external fucking ethernet ports, paranoid about wifi but you think some guy is going to walk up to your house and jack in?

And yeah, just running a switch is the easiest. I assume they don't pass shit through without power.

>>2772209
It's a work Meraki device, my plan is to have the external jack so I can take meetings from my garden instead of my office. I don't have any control over the management of it. I have a standard AP connected to it, but my house has aluminum siding and stepping even 2 feet from an exterior wall drops the signal to zero. (doesn't affect my home wifi though, 2.4ghz network reaches fine(ish))

>>2772208
Cat6 standard can use all lines for data depending if you're running mode a or b, so just disconnecting one lane of the data lines isn't a guarantee. Though this is me being exceptionally paranoid and I realize that realistically there's a 0% chance john hackerman is going to jump my fence and jack into my network via a live jack in my garden.

>>2772206

I searched for "RJ45 Network Switch"
Believe it or not, they sell such things.

My cats water fountain have these pumps and they need to replaced after 1-2 months because of the mineral build up (or they dont survive getting scrubbed).

Is there something that I can replace it with thats better? Theyre nearly always out of stock and like 10 euro a piece.

Im in Europe if it matters. Id prefer something thats easily cleanable or very cheap and replacable.

>>2772244
Have you considered changing the water out for something softer? Mineral buildup is probably because you're in a hard water area, I imagine you can buy softer water fairly cheaply for the couple of liters your cats go through in a month. Or you could just, you know, use a bowl. Cats have no problems drinking out of those.

>>2772245
Its already filtered through one of those brita filters for hard water and its got its own filters too.
The water is just extremely hard and theres not much to do (the municipal will start softening the water in 2035 though)

>>2772247
can't you just run vinegar through it for a few hours when it gets mineral buildup? it's probably all plastic gears and shit so it shouldn't fuck it up too bad.
or just use a bowl like everyone else. cats are dumb but not dumb enough to die of thirst because they can't find water that's moving.

>>2772249
I probably could run vinegar through it but Im afraid the smell might put off the cat.
Yes, I could just set out still water but I don't really want to.

>>2772250
next time one dies, soak it in vinegar and run it in a separate bowl, rinse well and run in fresh water before putting it back. maybe even try that before it dies. the rinse and run can be in tap water, and once fully rinsed and run the vinegar out you can put it back in the cat fountain.

>>2772249
you sir are a heathen and a cad. I hope the cutest cat finds your lap and kneeds you with needle sharp claws through your gay pride sweatshirt unit you die of adoring it.

>>2772252
White vinegar right?

>>/diy/thread/2685041#p2689321
>shitty fridge broke last September
>got it repaired
>repair guy replaced the start relay
>fridge is broken again today
>Feels like it's start relay again
>The repair guy's start relay is designed to last up to only six months
I can replace light bulbs and diy extension cords, and assemble four desktop PCs. Can I just buy a start relay online and put it in myself, instead of calling and paying for another repair guy? Will I get electrocuted if I try?

Pic related. This universal model kind of looks like the one the repair guy used.

>>2772259
if you can figure out how to unplug the fridge before you do anything to it, you can do it.
there aren't any lingering shock hazards in a fridge. there's probably a youtube video on someone performing the exact same part swap on a similar fridge you can look up.

>>2772254
yes

>>2772259
yeah the worst part of fridges is when the part is buried. unplug like the anon said and expect those little wire clips instead of a socket. note which goes where or move them one at a time.

>>2772201
And you do your inoculations in a sterile environment, unless you want half of your jars filled with tric. And while I'm building up a lab space, I'd like to make it multipurpose.
Doing things in front of a laminar flowhood on stainless steel is more convenient than a tiny tupperware in a closet.

I thought about asking >>>/sci/ this but I think /diy/is usually more helpful

I like loose leaf tea and the latest batch I've acquired is of poor grade. The sediment in the cup is tea dust and when suspended in the tea makes it quite bitter. I've tried fine I've tried filtration but that doesn't work well enough. It takes 30 minutes or more, for enough to collect at the bottom of the cup so it doesn't affect the taste, but then the moment you pick it the cup the sediment becomes stirred back into the cup. So I thought maybe a centrifuge is more efficient, and then maybe some way to separate the clean tea from the sediment tea at the bottom.

My question is:
How difficult is it to build a centrifuge? I'm not trying to make yellow cake, just a descent cup of tea. Can I just slap some adjustable counterweights on a spare electric motor and call it a day? Do I need special bearings or will any off the shelf bearings do the job?

>>2772162
Why does that look like 0.5" thick? A kitchen I had when flatting used like 0.05", it bowed kinda badly since it wasn't supported that well, but that would be a pretty easy fix. Surely a few square feet of 0.05" stainless wouldn't cost more than a couple hundred dollars. Especially if you get it 2nd hand from an industrial kitchen, butcher, or just a scrapyard.

>>2772250
Try citric acid instead. Doesn't leave a smell after washing it out once or twice.

>>2772276
Yeah it's doable to make a centrifuge, I made a spincoater and I'm troubleshooting its firmware at the moment. Works decently, but it's damn scary when it's up to speed since I had to make it with a 4-jaw chuck for various sizes of workpiece. In your case you can just make it with two opposing vials of liquid, fill one with the right amount of water and that's your counterweight. Normal radial-load bearings are fine, there isn't any axial load. The hardest part is getting the spinning part balanced and solid in the first place, and mounting the motor somewhere safe.

That said, you might want to consider some sort of air-panning method to blow away the finest particles while they're still dry. Like a dyson vortex. Or maybe something electrostatic.

>>2772276
just make it symmetric and put the same amount of tea in each side.

that said I would look at doing something closer to a french coffee press.

or you could put the tea in a fucking bag like a civilized person. I mean the point is to salvage the shitty tea not some hipster brownie points for keeping it loose leaf, right?

>>2772268
>note which goes where or move them one at a time.

I take pics of everything, especially shit I assume I don't need pics of.

Adhd utility belt so it doesn't turn into a schzio hoarder nest inside? Not a fanny pack, an actual compartmentalized utility belt. Also not a cop one, for craft not edc

>>2771090
why the FUCK is this not in stock anywhere? some simple unfaced R30, checked every store within a two county radius.

Can you get three-phase electricity in the US? And what voltage is it then, phase to gnd?

>>2772561
yes, usually only in industrial areas. 440v

>>2772564
Are these 120 degree phases? And are you sure about it being phase to ground because then it's 760V phase to phase.

>>2772561
208 to ground usually 480 phase to phase. 120 deg yes

>>2772564
>440v

in canada, 600V is more common.
to get 480 or 240 3-phase, you need big transformers.
you can also get 600V to 240V split phase transformers, meaning you can power your lights, computers, etc off of 600V and save money coz 3-phase power is provided at a lower rate.

>>2772639
In Yurop you can just pick one of the 400V phases and have the household voltage (230).

Anybody ever try buying the dirt cheap nameless tools you can find on aliexpress? Just interested in hearing stories. A guy I work with says he's bought a few things and that the $5 mechanics pick set was functionally identical to the $40 gearwrench set he bought and "I'll never buy name brand picks again", also said he bought a precision bit & driver set that for cheap that was perfectly adequate for pc & laptop repair... and I bought an ifixit precision bit set for like $35...

>>2772674
Carbide stuff is usually fine. Hardened steel stuff (especially drill bits) can be iffy on alloy quality. Those cheap chrome jewellers' screwdrivers with the hex nut heads? Got a set from ali, got a set that looked identical from a local seller, the local one was actually good steel while the ali one just rounded over.

I've also bought some hardware-store-brand chinky hex screwdriver bits that were mostly good, but some of the allen bits were undersized and just spin too easily. One was basically a complete circle out of the box with only faint machining around 6 sides. Chinky bench vices are godawful be it from a store or from the big ship, they use a lead screw for guiding the path of the jaw, without well-ground surfaces to hold the jaws square or parallel. Guess it's hard to know what you're buying.

I have a tin of lighter fluid thats leaking at the bottom but idk exactly where. I have it sitting in a yogurt container and its filling up. What do I do to fix it?

>>2772674
You get what you pay for, but you can pay a lot less and get something half decent. I paid like 15 bucks for a set of cobalt drill bits and they've held up fairly well for occasional SS work.

If you're paying 5 cents a bit, you're probably going to get junk. But even junk can be fine for soft screws in soft materials.

>>2772674
if you're using tools for any heavy duty work you should pay higher prices for better warranties/quality.
if you're just using it to screw plastic shit and electronics apart then any piece of shit tool will get the job done and in that scenario it's better to just have the right bit than to have a high quality bit.

>>2772753
First find the damn tin.

My washing machine has taken up a hobby of shaking itself wildly across the floor every time I load it.
It was two springs and two hydrolic mounts, both are attached correctly.
Both counterweights are also in place.
Any ideas8SGW?

Can I use this piece of glass to flatten a dished Norton India oilstone? What else do I need, some type of grit powder? DO I use the same grit for all stones

>>2772674
Think about what you’re using it for. No-name cutting things are normally awful, I will never buy a cheap sawzall blade again. I would be weary of cheap drill bits too. Cheap picks will work until you snap one near the top of an opened up engine and aren’t sure where the piece went. Cheap screwdrivers and bits will work, but when you need them go grab a messed up or rusty screw, good luck.

Like I would buy a cheap Chinese adjustable wrench before buying a cheap Chinese channellock style pliers because the pliers need a good heat treatment on the teeth to do their job well, and cheap chinesium is never properly hardened.

What's the cheapest way to true up some PVC pipe ends? Obviously if I had a lathe it'd be trivial, even a mitre saw might do, but I don't have anything good for making 90 degree cuts, and eyeballing it with a handsaw and some masking tape gets me close, but not close enough.

>>2772929
I can't help you with your question, but "guaranteed to be flat" has no meaning.

>>2772900
holy shit clean that thing
does it do it unloaded or only when loaded?

>>2772961
if you have a fitting that the pipe end fits into, you can use the fitting as a guide and cut w/ saw blade against the fitting. might need to get creative with how to position and hold it all together while you cut.

>>2772986
I have a fitting, but it's soft PVC too. Might just wind up using it to mark a line then file to that line.

I have a question concerning these type of plastic packers. I'm using them to slightly pack behind some battens. My question is, do I drill the screw through the packers into the wall or do I arrange the packers either side of the screw?

hand wrenches are some expensive fucking things for just being funny shaped pieces of metal. I watched some youtube videos about how cheap wrenches are often out of size spec or too soft and just stretch off the bolt when you apply force. where/what is the best bang for your buck if I wanted to buy a full set?

>>2772900
>>2772984
I think only when loaded, I'll run an unloaded cycle now.
I've tried cleaning but it's in my garage, idgaf.
What difference would it make if it did or didn't move around the place when loaded?

>>2772929
you don't need anything special to achieve the flatness you need for an oil stone. just stick some sandpaper to a block of your choosing and grind away until it's flat, use a stretched piece of string to test it's flatness if you don't have a straight edge of some kind. you aren't working with equipment that's heading to outer space or something, save yourself the money on some gimmicky piece of glass.

The firepit that I made gets constantly flooded whenever we have rain, how can I drain the water or make some kind of drainage system to make the pit usable? I'm also considering moving it but there aren't many places to move it within my property.

>>2772997
install a drain tile or a french drain running to someplace you can discharge the water. if you don't have any place, you may have to install a drywell nearby

>>2771183
why not pay homeless people to do it for you?

>>2772998
Wait if I can do that wouldn't that require zoning or contacting my municipal government to know where not to dig so I don't hit any cables or pipes? And can I get away with renting and purchasing home depot tools?

>>2772991
I think right now, for your joe schmoe DIYer that just wants a cheap set of wrenches in a drawer, craftsman are the way to go. the regular raised panel wrench sets are generally middle-of-the-pack in performance according to testing & review channels despite their lower price around $3/wrench (11 piece sets of SAE or metric available for $35 on amazon right now) and if you have a little more money to spend for a greater value proposition, the craftsman overdrive is basically the mac tools RBRT design for a quarter of the price. $75 per set, probably the best price to performance combination wrenches on the market.

>>2772997
just dig a small relief lane to move the water to somewhere else lower in elevation, doesn't have to be very deep in the ground as long as the water has a path to somewhere lower in elevation than your pit.
or just not care, you probably aren't going to want to hang out at your fire pit while it's raining anyways.

>>2773007
nah, just use shovels, they only care if you start bringing in the heavy equipment

Not sure if /diy/. My window ac made a loud pop sound and stopped working. I shut it off and its working again. What would have caused the pop and malfuction?

>>2773008
okay after watching a few more youtube videos I understand. $70 for a set of metric and sae was more than I wanted to spend on wrenches but it looks like everything cheaper than that is just dogshit. I wouldn't be using them often enough to justify buying the gucci design, but, for example, today my neighbor asked me for help changing the battery on his riding lawnmower and one of the brackets that held the battery down is on a threaded rod that was too long for my little 1/4" socket set so i needed a wrench. I said I didn't have any wrenches and the neighbor dug around his garage for an hour until he found an old set I could use, made me think it would be worth having an inexpensive set of my own laying around. I know I could PROBABLY get away with buying the cheapest no-name chinesium given my infrequent use, but I just hate owning things that are dogshit and being let down by it when I actually need it for something important

my erection is lasting longer than 5 hours...the thing is i didn't take any pills. what do?

>>2773061
Your mom can handle it.

Idk who to ask.but you guys. Clearly I have moisture issues coming in. Who do I call ? Window company ? Siding ? Roof guy?
I imagine the flashing on the window frame needs to be redone. I don't see wetness coming through the metal frame so I guess from the outside it's getting in...and then into the walls where it's settling. Fuck. I don't want to get taken to the cleaners but it's hard to scope out if these window companies I see can replace the frame + do reflashing and shit.

what the fuck happened to my washing machine?
I turn it on as normal and come back to it later beeping in alarm with a horrible burnt plastic smell coming from the hot water tap which is now covered in gunk

>>2773051
there is probably a breaker inside that blows if overloaded. probably your compressor is on its way out and drawing too much electricity. most likely not repairable since everything is cheap shit now.

>>2773061
get out of the men's locker room anon

Is there any particular reason I shouldn't make lift/tie down points out of old lawn mower blades? It'll be for ratcheting a lawn mower or ATV onto a trailer mostly, maybe a large tractor occasionally

>>2773100
maybe the hot water cylinder's temperature control failed and the plastic pipe there got too hot?

>>2773006
If homeless people were competent enough to do this shit they wouldn't be homeless.

I want to create a sliding drawer in my glovebox that starts following the upward angle of the glovebox, then levels out. How do I do the damn thing? Special rails?

>>2773312
rollers on the drawer sides that follow the shape of the desired movement in its tracks. might help to find something that moves similarly and copy its mechanism

>>2773312
Make a channel in a piece of wood or something the same shape as your red arrows, put two rollers on each side of your drawer that fit in the channel.

I need 2 aluminum pipes that are M30 threaded, male and female, for a couple of cm. Anyone ever seen a product like this? Best I can find is some oil level monitor with M30x1.5 thread on it, but it's only about 1cm long and I'd have to cut it down pretty heavily. Ideally I want something that's 28mm on the inside, 32mm on the outside.

Buying taps and pipes the right size seems like a lot of hassle for such a short piece.

>>2773344
Not answering your question but M30 is normally 3.5mm pitch. Which one do you need?

>>2773361
1mm pitch would probably give me enough room to fit M30 on a pipe piece with a 28mm ID. It doesn't need to be super strong.

I was looking at telescope eyepiece extenders, but I can't find anything with enough threading, or the right kind of size. I guess I could go up to 28 ID, 36 OD with like an M32 thread or something, but even that is hard to find in aluminium.

Vapor barriers and air conditioning didn't exist for most of human history and we have lots of buildings that survived centuries without them. What is the actual difference in performance? How do these old buildings live so long without them?

I saw a random youtube comment on a video saying that vapor barriers only exist because of glass wool insulation failing due to moisture. Is that part of it?

new construction homes that have wood exposed and haven't been sealed up. it rains and gets the wood wet because it's not treated. how does it not mold? is it because it is exposed and sunlight helps dry it out? how do you build new homes and prevent wood from getting wet during the weather? always wanted to know.

I rode by a house the other day and there were like 5-600 empty fire extinguishers piled up in the yard. What could have been the reason for that? I would've thought scrap but it was *just* empty extinguishers

>>2773514
survivorship bias and they had access to limited building materials, ie: solid stone and hardwood.
today's building materials are made to cost as less as possible while still functioning, so there are downsides like empty gaps in the walls (that would otherwise be solid material in an old building) where moisture can build up and soften drywall and shit. you don't really have these issues when your walls are made of solid stones and maybe mortar or large slabs of wood; there's only a few exposed faces on your structure and it can naturally dry out while the framing-style housing we have now has gaps where moisture can ingress and build up without an easy way to dry them out.
>>2773563
put a piece of construction lumber out in the rain and see how long it takes for anything to happen to it. it's as you guessed, it's fully exposed so it dries out quickly and exposure doesn't allow mold to grow well. try the same thing in a damp, dark place and it'll mold out much quicker. even untreated wood can last for years outdoors depending on local conditions.
>>2773582
maybe the HOA is doing mass inspection of every home's extinguishers and replacing them or something?

Does this seems fair priced for subrban backyard?

I can afford but am I being taken or naa?

>>2773312
Two rollers per side on the drawer (ball bearings on a bolts), one on the front and one on the back. You can probably make them follow the same track, but you may want to have seperate tracks if you need to get some more extreme movement.

>>2773344
Single-point threading on a lathe. It's aluminium, you may be able to bodge a tap and die out of a steel bolt and nut.

>>2773617
hmmmmmm redwood sounds costly
id wonder what thats about

>>2773617
Get those stinkers off my screen boy

>>2773621
Quit perving on my toes juan

what are these called? i want to adapt an old intel cpu cooler to attach to the clip on style AMD bracket

>>2771372
Damn. Could I put together something like this?

>>2773635
If you have to ask, you probably can't.
If you could, you'd know.

>>2773635
I don’t know. But if you’re in Austria, you could buy it from me for the low, low, price of… damn, what should I even ask for that monstrosity?
There’s some value in it for the right person (at least the blade and the motor are worth something, I’d guess) so I’m hesitant to give it away for free, but I don’t wanna be some
>o know what I got
Boomer with a laughable asking price.
Oh, and what’s a good enough shop vac? There’s some for less than 100€ and some for more than 1000€. I just wanna suck (up pieces of drywall) and maybe have it switch one automatically when I switch on my belt sander and it should have enough capacity for an afternoon of work and a filter that I don’t need to replace every week.

Best fridge for around 3k? New home build has ge appliances already, doesn't need to be counter depth. Had two samsungs shit themselves at rental.

Also need washer dryer top loaders around 2500 or less for set

Does anyone know what type of glass they use for microwave oven door fronts?
I wondered if it had comparable properties to wood stove glass?

I know the glass used for electric ovens must be pretty heat proof but I wondered what the properties of the glass used on microwaves might be since I have a piecei

>>2773787
I’m sure they have glass that would work. I had glass on my wood burning fireplace growing up, we got that bitch hot some nights and sometimes a log would fall right on the glass and it was fine. The
google just calls it “fireplace glass doors” so not sure if it’s a special type.

>>2773787
*Is it just a heat strengthened glass that'll shatter if I try to use it as a door front to observe a test wood stove I'm thinking of trying to build?

>>2773793
More googling says it’s often “tempered glass” on more decorative stuff but “glass ceramic” looks to be more heavy duty and that’s what is used on glass cooktops.

>>2773794
Cooktops are tough things, I'm curious how they even cut that stuff.

I just don't see a pane of glass mounted in front of a cheap microwave as anything like that level of performance, all it needs to handle is being thrown shut and the temperature gradient between the internal and external side.
I'll just have to experiment with it, if it breaks it breaks I just don't want it exploding if the internal oven temp is in the region of 400c.

>>2771090
I need to frame an awkwardly shaped stud wall for this space. I would attempt to do it on the ground and raise it, but as I found out from doing the other walls, the ceiling is not a consistent distance anywhere in the shed, and I'm worried it will cause issues.
Is there anyway I can build it in place without access to some kind of nailgun?

Generally speaking, if I wanted to make a precise and smooth hole in a piece of steel, the process to do that would be drilling it first, then boring, then reaming, right? But can I skip a step in the process if it's a small scale one off job? Like, just drill it and then ream it assuming I can get a bit and reamer in that size? If it isn't obvious I know nothing about this stuff so I'd be hiring a shop to do it.

>>2773821
Drilling into reaming can work fine on smaller parts, used to do it all the time at my assembly job.
Probably not the best idea for high precision, larger parts, or reamer lifespan.

>>2773821
watch a few clickspring videos. he drills then reams quite often, and he does incredibly precise work.

>>2773818
>that durex can
Kek. What’s that miter saw?

>>2773840
Durex + mystery chemical jugs are from previous home owner. The miter saw is a Black and Decker hand-me-down from my father.

>>2773624
Yandex image search tells me they are called "Cooler Mounting Bracket Hardware"
https://www.electronicpro.co.za/products/cooler-mounting-bracket-hardware-tools-kit-for-corsair-hydro-h60-h80i-h100i-h100i-gt

Does anyone know what style shelving this is?

>>2773847
its plywood, anon

>>2773821
>the process to do that would be drilling it first, then boring, then reaming, right?

Generally speaking, holes aren't bored *and* reamed.

Boring is the method of choice for precise holes. All else being equal, single-point bored holes will be the most accurate in terms of straightness and concentricity. Surface finish is a bit of a toss up, depending heavily on material and tool geometry, though reamers generally will do better. Bored holes can easily be honed or polished if needed, though.

Problem is, boring can be difficult or straight-up impossible for very small holes or holes with high aspect ratios (holes that are much longer than they are wide). That's where reaming comes in. Reamers tend to follow the existing hole a bit, but they produce very round, smooth holes. As they don't see significant lateral forces, like a boring bar does, they don't have a problem with skinny, deep holes.

On the off chance you're trying to do this without a mill or lathe, you're kinda limited to reaming. The spindle of a drill press (or most of them, anyway) isn't really suited to single-point boring.

Tl;dr: Reaming is preferred for small/long/skinny holes, boring is for more chode-sized holes.

>>2773851
Does that configuration of shelving have a name? French cleat is French cleat regardless of what it's made out of.

>>2773867
>French cleat is French cleat regardless of what it's made out of.

Correct, and French cleat is French cleat only when it's French cleat, and there's nothing in that image that says it's French cleat.

>>2773871
wat? I was just using French cleat as an example. I know the image I posted is not French cleat, and I can see it's made of plywood. I want to know if any of you guys know if it has a name.

Guess this is the thread for it.

My Samsung fridge turns on and the temperature says 35F but when I use my handheld thermostat it says the area around the milk is 45F. When I check the vents it says 35F like it's supposed to be. I just changed the evaporator fan to fix the problem of it not cooling before. Any ideas?

>>2773875

It's literally just a compartment shelf/cubby, IDK what else you're expecting.

>>2773825
>>2773839
>>2773858
Thanks for the info! Even though I won't be doing the work I didn't want to go into the shop without sone idea of what I wanted done.

>>2773875
>filter falling behind the shelf
man-made horrors beyond your comprehension

there's no point using stud adhesive if i'm plasterboarding a kitchen and the wall is going to be hidden behind cabinets and splashback right? i can just screw the whole thing down

I'm building a double pendulum swinging target stand using a 4"x4"x3' post with bearings seated in the post. The bearings include a radial bearing recessed in the post with a flange bearing mounted right on top of the radial bearing, one set of bearings on the front and one on the back. The bearings will secure a 3/4" stainless rod with a grub screw, and the rods will mount to a pendulum made of 2x4s.

Will grub screws in the flange bearing be sufficient to secure the 3/4" stainless rod?

How can I mount the 2x4 pendulums to the 3/4" rod? I was looking at curtain rod flanges but I don't think they'd hold up to the swinging for very long.

what happens if I add a big rig flywheel on my lathe? my reasoning is heavy angular momentum would add more turning force on the workpiece.

>>2773894
>IDK what else you're expecting
I'm asking if this style of shelf has a name. I am being very clear.

>>2774072
You get heavy angular momentum putting stress on all the parts keeping it from throwing metal into everything else as well. You can use something like that for a fly cutter because the weight keeps the momentum up and the cutting depth is super shallow. It just doesn't help in any fashion for doing more work.

I'm going to cut a (or multiple havent decided yet) faceplate for a eurorack synth I'm making for school. I got a 6"x24" piece of steel sheet metal at 22 gauge to make it. I'm looking for what would be the best way to cut the metal precisely. I need the face plate to have a height of 5.06", and the width I will decide after I've planned where I will put all the dials and inputs in autoCAD. Would a table saw get the job done or am I at risk of fucking myself/the saw up?

>>2773881
idk maybe try >>>/g/sqt or even >>>/sci/sqt don't expect a reply tho

How dangerous is it to remove asbestos popcorn ceiling yourself versus hiring someone? Like am I gonna get cancer or some shit even if I wear a mask or do I need more than that?

>>2774126
The thing about hiring someone is they put up barriers and filter the air.

See, once you scrape that shit off the ceiling, the dust is going everywhere. If your only exposure was when you're scraping, the mask would be fine. But that shit is going to go through your house, into vents, etc.

Short-term exposure may not be that big a deal, but you're going to be living with it for a while.
I'd hire someone who can put up plastic and filter the air, etc., so I don't have to wonder if I contained it well enough.

Are you sure it has asbestos?
Test kits are pretty cheap.

>>2774117
just use a jigsaw and a straight edge

what happens to my atv if i pull the spark plug and carburetor from one of the cylinder? will I save some gas?

its a 750cc V twin. I'm attempting to run it on single 350cc cylinder.

Can I make a 4 inch hole for a sewage pipe in a reinforced concrete foundation by drilling numerous holes with a masonry bit and chiseling out the excess concrete? I'm not sure how I'd go about removing the rebar though.

>>2774064
>A picture is worth a thousand words.

Sorry, chief. You only did 124 words.

>>2774127
What if I live in an old ass condo without an HVAC system? Like there's actually no vents in any of the rooms with a popcorn ceiling and all the rooms that do have a vent have been renovated by someone else to a normal ceiling finish. I'm gonna get it tested but I'm pretty sure there is asbestos given the place was built before they banned its use in popcorn ceilings.

>>2774176
If it runs at all, it’s going to be super super rough. Might run at higher throttle, but probably won’t idle on a V-twin.

Engines are designed to be balanced with the cylinders firing at a certain time in a certain order. If one of the cylinders stops firing, that whole balance gets thrown off. Lose one cylinder from a V12 and it will still be pretty smooth because the momentum of the other 11 cylinders will keep it going, lose one on a V6 and she runs but is getting rough, a 4cyl is pretty rough, and a V-twin is going to suck. At the very least, you would want a really heavy flywheel or something to even keep it spinning somewhere close to the original idle speed with only one cylinder.

>>2774176
>>2774250
Try pulling a spark plug boot and see if she runs. If you actually pulled the plug, maybe it’s easier because the running cylinder doesn’t have to compress the air of the dead one, but then I would be curious how much oil would be popping from the spark plug hole.

I found this old CRT in a house I'm working on. I plan to disassemble, replace caps, retrobright the casing, and all that. Because it was kept in the garage for who knows how many decades, dirt daubers built a nest right over the (female) VGA port, so my question is this:
Am I gonna have to desolder and replace the VGA port, or is there some way to get the dirt out of there with electronics cleaner or something else? I'd prefer to just clean it so I can test if it even works before I go through the process of restoring it.
And yes, I asked before I took it.

>>2774253
>Am I gonna have to desolder

the /ohm/ sub-board, where electronics is discussed, has this tidbit of wise advice in its sticky

>>2774258
>pic
lol
I am mostly doing it to get some experience, but I also want to use it. It's treasure to me!

>>2771090
should I brush my teeth right now

>>2774258
>>2774259
>>2774253
nvm, some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush did the trick. I guess I just assumed the insects had deposited their dirt all the way down the cracks, but that wouldn't really make sense. It was just on the surface. Of course, now there's almost certainly dirt that fell into the pins. Good thing this is just a hobby ;_;

>>2774176
no

>>2774178
sure
Ideally you would want to avoid as much rebar cutting as possible because if you cut it, now the concrete might break

>>2774222
What?

>>2774253
>>2774267
if this is a stopping point to you, then what the fuck do you think youre gonna do when you open it

>>2774284
Most likely clean it. I heard some arcs when I plugged it in and the picture flickered a little bit. I didn't connect it to a video source yet

I just got an open box ender 3 and it’s ok but fucks up sometimes and is a bitch to level. Will struggling to print and upgrading this machine offer valuable exp. Or is that good money after bad and I ought to pony up for a prusa?

>>2774253
Stop what you are doing. Don’t fuck around with crt. They are dangerous and can literally kill you.

My Mr Buddy heater has just recently started burning very poorly, giving off fumes that smell like diesel. Happened when I swapped propane tanks, but it now smells like diesel even on a couple different tanks. Is it fucked or maybe the fuel filter needs to be changed?

>>2774357
Is your regulator and all the lines cool still? Some soapy water will help diagnose that. Regulators go bad from time to time but not sure if a diesel smell is a real symptom of that.

>>2774274
I don't know where the rebar is located inside the foundation, so I'm just gonna hope I avoid it as much as possible. As for cutting it, that's what I'm wondering about. I don't think my angle grinder will fit inside a 4 inch hole. The foundation is about 16 inches wide.

I'm thinking about buying this shed. How difficult would it be to attach a patio?
The roof design looks like it could be difficult

>>2774253
Ultrasonic cleaner.

>>2771090
no drone thread

with LIDAR does time of day affect the readings? day vs night, clear weather, same temp barometer and humidity.

>>2771373
I know a richfag "mobile Porsche technician" with a shitload of Beta and other euro tools he bought when he was in Germany picking up his Porsche in 2014. they're pretty comfy to use, his tool cart is really nice and the rolling chair he got in 2014 is like new. I'm still mirrin his orange toolbox.

I've got a window ac unit I want to put in a rather large window, about 48 inches wide. What's the best way to seal up the unit with the window frame? I've seen some kits made of foam that might do the trick but they look a bit flimsy. My other idea was to fit a sheet of plywood around it, but it seems a bit janky. The unit is also rather large, about 23 5/8th inches if that matters. Also, I'd like to keep it mounted all year since it's large and I don't have anywhere else to store it long term.

>>2771397
our Lidl in the states hasnt gotten those tools yet.

I need to clean a ceramic shingle roof from mosses and green algae. I am thinking to do it using a pressure washer and a PS30 washing brush with a long stick.

Should I use some detergent? Or not use a pressure washer but regular hose and some kind of rake?

>>2774599
I forgot to put the main question, do I need the big $400 pressure washer or will the smaller $100 pressure washer do? They say too much pressure can damage the shingles but not how much

>>2774489
Are you putting the patio on the roof? why would it matter?

>>2774601
Between the 3000-4000psi $400+ gas engine pressure washers and the ~$100 1500-2000psi electric pressure washers, I would go electric if it’s going to be a homeowner once or twice a year tool.

The gas ones are nice for doing bigger driveways and stuff, the larger surface cleaners work a lot faster. And the gas ones move a lot more water when you really want to soak stuff to wash crap off.

However, the electric ones still do pretty good work. When you really need the power though, you’re going to need a smaller nozzle so you’re cleaning less area at a time. Maintaining gas engines that get used once or twice a year is going to be a little bit of a headache though. But with a concentrated nozzle close up, the electric ones will be able to clean off anything you come across, although they stop short of paint stripper mode like a more powerful commercial duty gas model.

If you plan to use it more than half a dozen times a year, go gas because the engine maintenance and added price will be worth it for the time you save being able to clean a larger area at once.

>>2774562
Plywood is inexpensive and easy to work with. Its appearance and durability can easily be improved with painting.
A smoother (though more expensive) look can be achieved by using Plexiglass or similar material.
Using clear material allows light to enter the room. If this isn't desired, tinted or colored plastic sheets are available.

>>2774601
You mitigate pressure by putting different nozzles sizes on. Always buy the highest PSI that you can can.
The $100 electric models are a joke.

Buy a 2000+ model with an induction motor. It will cost you $200-300 which is the same price range as a starting gas washer.
It's up to you whether you want to deal with a gas engine or not. They aren't hard to keep going but do need minor maintenance.

I started with a 2200 electric washer from Costco, and eventually got a clearance deal on a Generac gas 3200. Both are still working after years of use.

>>2773052
>okay after watching a few more youtube videos I understand.
Those wrench tests mean literally nothing, you will never come close to pulling a wrench that hard. He has big ass breaker bars on it for gods sake, using the open end.

The reality is, even the most dogshit set of $20 wrenches you buy at Harbor Freight will perform just the same as the craftsman ones.
Metalurgy is cheap and easy nowadays.

Modern wrenches (and even the majority of vintage ones) just dont break under normal usage. They just dont. You have to put cheater pipes on them, and even then normally the fastener will round first.

Buy the full polished 22pc wrench set for $20 at harbor freight and be done.
The extra $50 you are spending for chinkshit craftsman give you literally nothing, because everyone considers raised panel craftsman to also be dogshit wrenches, you are paying for the name.

>>2774658
Sorry, I should have said porch, not patio.
I'm just wondering if the roof design will pose any challenges when creating a porch.
I like the roof design because it gives space to store things in the loft but I also have the option of a traditional roof style

>>2774678
>>2774696
Thanks for the replies guys. Gas powered are not common here and I’d rather not bother with them, we mostly see Kärcher brand electrical ones as in pic related, this is a 1700 psi one, would that cut it? They go up to 2500 something but get expensive fast. I plan to spray vinegar first after a rainy day to kill the moss and algae, then clean it all off, pressure wash with brush and then use moss killer and impregnate.

The only other use I have for them is clean my motorcycle once every so often and maybe the brick walls once a year

My sink has one of those stupid push down, pull up strainer things, and after losing the ball bearing twice over the span of a couple of years, I'm looking for a better option. Do they make replacement shafts with a system that doesn't fucking fail as much? Can't be assed replacing the whole drain hole.

>>2774260
Bump

What is this thing called? Trying to find something like this for hanging a piece flush to the wall, but can't figure out what someone might call it

>>2774781
Cleat or Cleat Flare

>>2774709
these companies all make overinflated claims about psi so compare them based on flow (and reviews about longevity). there are some good cheap models, and plenty on the used market that have had an easy life

i have like 24 d batteries but dont have anything that uses d batteries
what can i do with them other than throwing them away

>>2774781
metal version of pic related

Guys, help me decide between a sealed crawl space vs ventilated. The house in question is located in a pretty humid place with four seasons (Dfb climate classification). I have the floor torn out right now and will be putting a new one in. The old floor was installed over a space that was neither ventilated nor sealed, so it rotted out. My first idea was to install vents in the foundation, put a new floor in, insulate it, and call it a day, but I found many articles talking about how ventilated crawl spaces are inherently bad at keeping moisture out and sealed ones are way superior. Is that true, or is it just a new way for construction companies to make money, which is why it's being pushed so much? Keep in mind if I was to go the sealed route, I sure as hell am not putting in electric fans, drainage wells or other expensive and/or complicated things. I want to keep it simple and cheap as the house won't be lived in permanently.
Thx

>>2774854
Feed them to electric eels

>>2774854
See how many fit in your ass.

Total new friend here, what drill should I biy to
>mount shelf
>drill into drywall
>mount tv + stand

theres a cheap Makita 6233D for sale locally but cant find information for it, it says 10mm(3/8"), will regular drill bits fit? I found a set of bits but says "1/4 hex shank bits"
K

>>2774894
>Makita 6233D
Nonononono. That's a ni-cd drill. Dirt old battery tech at least 2 generations old. If you want cordless get something lithium-ion, 18v to 24v, has a 2 speed gearbox and a clutch. Those are all basic features of today's drills. 3/8 chuck size will fit most bits that the drill is capable of driving so you're good there but if you can get a 1/2 chuck drill for a few dollars more go for it.

For the light duty you're asking get whatever name brand is on sale at your local bigbox. Black and Decker, Cryobo, Porter Cable, Kobolt, etc. You should be able to get a drill/battery/charger combo for $50.

>>2774900
OK guess I'll hit up Harbor Freight when NEETbux come in next, thanks

So my apartment complex maintenance suck. I avoid them as much as possible. I have so many crazy stories, one including them and poop. The maintenance guy who would tell me about the Israeli moon base and aliens giving lectures at ASU left 2 years ago so I can't even request him anymore. He was cool and actually taught me stuff beyond aliens.

Anyway, the bulbs in the fluorescent fixture in my kitchen blew and I pulled off the plastic cover. Getting and replacing the bulbs is no problem but the cover is soooo gross. I washed it with dish soap in the shower (it's like 4 feet long) and it's no longer sticky but it has paint all over it. I am afraid to use any solvents on it because it is just plastic from the 80s.

How do I get the paint off without destroying the plastic? I figure while I have it off I might as well clean it.

>>2774929
Are you talking about the thin flexible textured plastic diffuser panel? I wouldn't bother cleaning it. They're like $15. Just replace it.

>>2774929
>How do I get the paint off without destroying the plastic?
Leave it. They are styrene and brittle. You'll just break it.

>>2774934
It's hard plastic and shaped like a large 3D glass cover. Kinda art deco shape. It's very slightly flexible. It's made of some kind of frosted plastic. It's not one of those pieces that goes in a drop ceiling.

>>2774935
It's not brittle. It's thick almost textured 3D shaped plastic. Shaped like it would be glass. It's not flush to the ceiling and not a drop ceiling thingy.

I just died. I'm a ghost now. I got electrocuted trying to fix my shit. Sorry for haunting the thread.

I used some drywall anchors to secure a standing shelf to the wall. Realized later the anchors were meant for drywall between 5/8" to 3/4" thick. Pretty sure my drywall is 1/2". Is this gonna be a problem?

>>2774942
I think you are close enough to the 5/8 that you will be fine. As long as the shelf feels tight after you screw it in, I wouldn't worry.

>>2774935
Found something like it https://www.amazon.com/Puff-Diffuser-Flush-Ceiling-Kitchen/dp/B09BZZKQL4

The one in my kitchen has more shape but that looks like to could easily replace it.

>>2774934
More like this https://www.amazon.com/Puff-Diffuser-Flush-Ceiling-Kitchen/dp/B09BZZKQL4.. I'm in bed and don't want to mess with it to get a good picture but it looks very similar to that with a more art deco feel. I just don't want to scratch it up or melt the plastic.

If it was one of those shitty flat things I'd just buy a new one.

>>2774949
Hot water and dish soap if you want to try to clean it. Maybe use a green scotch-brite pad but nothing more abrasive.

Might be time to update that fixture or, if you don't want to spend money, leave it alone before you break it.

>>2774950
I'm not updating it. I already did the bathroom fixture that they were supposed to replace before I moved in. For it at home Depot in their return section for 5 bucks. Back in 2016. Don't think I'd be that lucky again.

I already did dish soap but I'm thinking Scotchbrite will probably work. For some reason I was focusing too much on solvents to think if normal stuff. Since it's frosted the rub marks probably wouldn't even show.

>>2774951
>probably wouldn't even show

you want the old paint marks to show
it makes it more shabby chic-a-licious
petit bourgeois peasant dog-licker!

>>2774955
I spent hours and hours the first day I moved in scraping paint off the kitchen and bathroom floors and then washing the carpets. There's still paint in the carpet I will never get out.

are these good or what should I buy instead? Also kind of thinking about the "Barn" style but its for a hallway closet

Brushless motors and rails for a DIY standing desk? I already have a desk top, I’d like to find the components to create a raisable leg system. Search engines are completely useless in 2024, googling this question only gives results for “BEST REVIEWED STANDING DESKS 2024”. If I have to I’ll go find someone’s standing desk and track down the motor used in each leg then fab myself a leg system that works with the motor. Any tips?

Splashed a few tiny drops of bleach on black pants. Is there such a thing as like black dye in a pen that I can just zap the bleach spots with and have it look tolerable and not wash back out? I know there's Rit but it seems like overkill for a few pinhead stains

>>2775135
You can buy pretty good standing desk legs these days, just bolt your own top to them. Way less effort.

>>2775135
Linear actuator.

>>2775136
Dye pen.

>>2775126
They're probably fine. I usually go to the hardware store and pick out the heaviest version available for durability. (rental property)
If I was inclined to buy online, buying from Amazon is pretty safe. If it doesn't suit you it's an easy return.

>>2775136
Black Sharpie

>>2775154
>>2775142
I spent a few hours searching and reading reviews but like there's hundreds of "fabric marker" "dye pen" "permanent marker" etc products, how do I know what is going to work right for this?

>>2775174
For cotton/nylon/whatever material your pants are.

>>2775153
I meant the design
wait I can make the landlord do this?

>>2774929
The problem is usually the same stuff that dissolves paint, tends to dissolve plastic too. If the paint is raised and the material it's on is smooth, you can get a plastic razor scraper and just scrap the paint off. I used this method to get wall paint off all my non porous furniture after my mom's dumbass boyfriend decided to paint the place while I was gone and didn't cover or tape anything off.

my deck has 4x4 support posts without any finish and there are mold spots on them. Whats the best way to clean them, and I should probably stain them or something afterwards right?

>>2775126
They are okay but not great. The really good ones use aluminium extrusions and ball bearings on the wheels. And have soft close if you want.

For a cabinet door probably okay but if there is a lot of play and the door is heavy then it will bump at the ends and the door vibrates/wobbles

Is there a reason to insulate the sides of your studs but not the front?

>>2775174
>how do I know what is going to work right for this?
Ironically, black is difficult to color match. Anything you buy is unlikely to be a perfect match.
Just go to any local store that sells Sharpie markers and buy one of those in black color.
If it's pinpoint splatters as you suggested, get the fine point version and test on a couple of spots.
You can quickly decide whether it works to your taste.
"Dye Pens" are just re-branded, more expensive, Sharpie-style markers.

>>2775185
>I can make the landlord do this?
You can ask...

>>2775270
That's called 'overspray' - the intended insulation was for the metal.

>>2771090
I have a semi-stupid question as I'm interested in making copies of things in expanding foam. I've never done such a thing before and I'm trying to get an idea of what I'm getting into and how dumb of an idea it is. Think something slightly bigger than a basketball in volume. I'm also curious about how to make cheap molds. So I'm wondering:
>how would a semi-cheap mold be made (I don't need a crazy $300 fiberglass mold with reinforcements that lasts 30 years and 500 copies poured; I'm making maybe 5-10 copies max)
>how expensive would this mold be?
>how expensive would the foam be per pour?
Think something like this (pic related). I'm interested in making designs and copying them rather than making a design once and having to use something that took 10+ hours to make.

>>2772052
>pits in blade edge
Ouch. I've heard that's pretty bad considering a straight razor's thin ass blade. Might need more sharpening and work than the average knife would; those pits catch hairs IIRC.

>>2772092
Vintage safety razor. I have both and I rarely use the straight razor. Blades are sub $0.50.

>>2772276
Could you just run it through a coffee filter? Or a cottonball? Either could fit in a funnel or be tied around the spout.

>>2772753
Be a hoarder and keep a couple spare lighter fluid tins as they empty. Or throw the contents in a Ball jar (hope you have one kicking around).

>>2774253
What model? That's a big question for if it's even worth trying to fix it. Though if it's for fun and experience, fuck it, do it anyways. But anon, remember, DISCHARGE THE TUBE and discharge the caps. "Modern" monitors should have a circuit to discharge the tube from what I understand but it's always better to be safe than die. Remember, one hand behind your back to remember to not touch two things and get electrocuted by accident. The capacitors should be discharged from the base connectors with a resistor. That should also be on the end of some kind of tool to hold it to keep your hand away from high voltage. Unfortunately I don't have a go-to video on that. Best to wait at least a day before working on it to be sure it's discharged. The big caps are going to be the most expensive. Don't get shitty no-name caps. IIRC the last time I checked nippon chemi-con were the recommended brand. Buy from Digikey or Mouser so you don't get some shitty knockoffs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X28FX_XxtU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeX5Y7Amk0o

>>2774854
Alternatively, get an old maglite.

>>2774894
>>2774910
If you want corded, this thing has lasted stupid long. Mine has a fucking dent in the metal casing from being dropped and it still works lol. Mine's the old Chicago Electric one but this looks to be the same, just rebranded in new colors as Harbor Freight redid their tool line (there's now three HF brands in cheap/middle/expensive instead of one). Just unscrew the silly handle; I never use it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/corded-drills-drivers/63-amp-12-in-variable-speed-drill-59519.html

>>2775135
Looks like FlexiSpot makes frames to toss a top on. I don't think they're going to be cheap but if I'd trust anyone not to shill junk, it'd be Mattias. Looks like $159 at cheapest on Amazon or $139 for the E2 frame only if you buy straight from them (links in description). If you buy from their site, click the link in the description and then where it says:
>Home > Standing Desks > Height Adjustable Standing Desks > Premium Standing Desk (E7)
At the top of the page, click "Height Adjustable Standing Desks" and scroll until you see "E2 Essential Standing Desk (E2)" and click that and customize it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtbntjmzZ9U

>>2775314
Who buys a fucking key chuck in 2024? I spent 15 bucks on my cordless drill, the outer chuck is plastic, but hey, 15 bucks. Bought another one, now I've got 2 batteries and 2 drills for when I need to do 2 operations without swapping out bits.

>>2775297
I hate the thin metal sheet feel you know?

How do I secure myself on a gable roof? Can I just put a long rope over the gable from the other side? I don’t want to break the shingles on the ridge

Also what keeps a roof lader from sliding down the roof? Just friction or do I need to secure the ladder as well?

What's the difference between ultimate load and allowance load for wall anchors? I tried googling it but it just made me more confused.

>>2775353
Ultimate load means will theoretically fail at that load maximum, allowance load is ultimate load divided by safety factor. See it as ultimate load is the load you need to be sure you rip it out of the wall, while allowance load is maximum load you can put on it forever without reducing lifespaN

>>2771090
I been seeing female tradies posting about sexism in the trades lately.

Are these posts real, or are they bad faith actors laying the groundwork for women to displace men in the trades too?

>>2774854

Build a 'potato launcher'

>>2774854
Raiders game or get one of them R2-D2

>>2775290
vacuum, hairdryer, soda bottle

>>2775384
Probably both. Some bitches are one of the guys and some are the purple haired motorcyclists or management.

>>2775355
Oh ok I read about the safety factor but I didn't get what that meant so thanks for explaining. Does this mean if I use it for a load that's between the ultimate and allowance load, it'll slowly wear out the anchor (not immediately but say over months or years)?

>>2775352
>I don’t want to break the shingles on the ridge
Make a ridge protector out of several layers of heave cloth/canvas or a couple of boards with edges fixed together into a V///// (flip it over)
>>2775352
>what keeps a roof lader from sliding down the roof?
The ladder hook.

When I'm spray painting, I'm getting a lot of bubbles and rough bits. Is it a skill issue?

>>2775702
What brand of paint are you using? How old is it? Is the nozzle dirty? Is it a new can? Are you painting or letting your projects dry in somewhere extremely warm (say, 90F or higher, especially direct sun) or extremely cold (under 32F) or windy, etc. Also are you actually doing light coats and each spray barely overlapping with the last? Best to do light coats; they dry fast and the next can be applied soon after. Even if that means between each line of spray, it's not as "full" or filled as the center of your spray. The next coat fills those in. If it wrinkles as it dries IIRC either you put too many layers on at once and didn't let them dry enough between coats or didn't let the previous (ie. primer) dry before spraying your paint. Rough could mean a lot of things; if you poorly prepped a surface (like you sanded the previous paint with 80 grit and left huge trenches and grooves it before painting) then there's your answer. You need to prep the surface and get it "smooth" enough to not look shit through the paint. Think of the paint like you're putting dye on easter eggs. Not that it's THAT thin but rarely does paint come in a form so thick that it's also a filler; you'll still see some of the blemishes like bumps, pits, and deep scratches of whatever is underneath that paint. Now if your paint can is sputtering, that's something different. A pic would help a ton.

>>2775711
Pic related

I'm using a new can of the cheapest shit from Lowes and letting it dry in direct sun. I put filler primer on initially and let it dry overnight, sanding it down smooth to 400 grit, so I don't think its surface prep.

I guess it might be applying too much paint at once. I did multiple passes and waited an hour before the next one. It was dry to the touch, but still a bit tacky.

>>2775733
Maybe too much paint at once? Without knowing brand IDK. I did fuck up my one plastic painting project because I used primer for some reason and it caused my paint to wrinkle for some ungodly reason. I'd scrape it off and start again, or at least let it dry 24-48 hours and then sand it and try like 3-4 light layers to really cover up all that but man, it's already thick and it's even wrinkling around that little guide tube to the right of the pic. Next time I'd thoroughly wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol 70% or 90% and a rag, let it dry, then hit it with really thin layers. Even if you don't get every spot in a layer and maybe even miss parts, wait 10-15 minutes and get it on the next. I should know how bad it is to paint too much on layers; guilty. The only real thing I can think of is you painted too thick and the paint was soaking into the primer and air was escaping as it soaked into a chalky (spongy) primer surface but...I won't even begin to pretend I use primer often lol.

Also I use Rustoleum. I think that looks like it. I think you might be spraying too close, possibly with one of their "2x/4x coverage" thicker paints or something; don't be afraid of multiple slightly faint layers. Also I'll be honest and say I've had some fucking nightmares with Krylon and I'm very biased against it. Thin watered down runny shit. I don't know how anyone uses it.

>>2775733
>I guess it might be applying too much paint at once. I did multiple passes and waited an hour before the next one. It was dry to the touch, but still a bit tacky.
Wait, what did the can say? When doing thin coats I usually wait 30 minutes IIRC. Also pulling out the can of Rustoleum White Painter's Touch Gloss under my desk (lol), it says "Dry and recoat times based on 70F ~50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries to the touch in 20 minutes, to handle in 1 hour, and fully dry in 24 hours. Apply a second coat or clear coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours."
If you're coating in hotter weather, I'd apply a second coat around 30-45 minutes, but THIN layers. I'd do maybe 5 top, but don't take that is be-all end-all no-more no-less advice. White is not an easy color to hide any mistakes with. The only thing I can think if you need to use primer on that is maybe use thinner layers of primer and perhaps do one or two initial thin layers of paint to just "seal" that primer. After you've "sealed" your primer, wait 48 hours, give your paint an even scuff with 400 grit, and then continue painting your layers of thin white as normal. Maybe I'm too stuck on this "primer releasing air bubbles" idea, but I think your primer might be holding air or at the very least, soaking some of your paint up, especially if it's super thick. When wood is coated, a layer or two is sometimes applied and let to near fully cure or fully cure before further coating so it doesn't just keep soaking deeper and deeper into the wood and "eating" your clear coat leaving bare spots. People who use resin and wood sometimes do this so it doesn't just soak into particularly porous wood and eat (soak up) $30 of resin you'll never see on the outside. I'm just bouncing thoughts around here.

>>2775290
I think I've figured out my question and I think I can do it in the most poorfag way possible. Copying objects can be done in the following way and your mold might only last 1-5 casts, but it will at the very least be stupid cheap.
>buy Walmart rags from painting section
>cut into strips
>take object to be copied whether that's an object to make a prop or your own object you made you wish to clone
>cover it in either plastic sheeting from the paint section of Walmart and cut and tape to get in corners OR use foil, or a mix
>be sure it's coated; you may have to cover it in tape like people do when making costumes, etc. to fully waterproof it and ensure the safety of the original
>split it in a way that a mold can be put together (see: fiberglass molds) and put a "mohawk" along those sems
>use those rags from the painting section with plaster of paris as a "paper mache" to coat one section of this object at a time
>wait til dry
>use vaseline as a mold release, if desired
>make foam copies with spray foam in thin layers - this may not be dense enough but I will find out. I've been disappointed by it before but I tried to make a piece way too big and way too thick in way too short of a time frame.

>>2775733
Looks like a heat issue to me. Don't dry your shit in the fucking direct sun, put them in shade.

Any recs on what I can wrap around the legs of an AC bracket it to stop be bumping my head into it? I was thinking pool noodles zip tied to it.

>>2775809
Pipe insulation might look a little better. Basically black or grey pool noodle with a slit pre-cut.

>>2775809
bright yellow caution tape

>>2775809
>pool noodles

ugly
at least match the color a bit

I want to cut a nice square hole out of the side of my generic computer case. What is the easiest way for my spastic ass to do this?

This thread has passed the bump limit.

A new thread has been posted here:

It's time to transition to the new thread.

>>2775866

>>2775867
what is the meaning of this?

>>2775857
dremel. cut your hole and return (although it's not a bad tool to keep)

>>2775809
pool noodles will deteriorate in UV. I'd try some copper pipe insulation. alternatively just hang something on a string so it's in your visual field as you walk by.

>>2775747
you can buy plaster strips for this purpose. look into people making plaster strip masks and consider vasoline instead of plastic wrap (one will have folds and get embedded).

you can also make cheap structures with just newspaper strips and wheat flour paste, people often shell balloons with this. you might consider it for the post mold final surface over the object so you're not left with raw expanding foam.

foam expands A LOT so do some volume tests, it's also severely nasty stuff and will stain everything including your skin, concrete and metal.

>>2775733
i'm going to call that too close and you're injecting propellent into the surface. 14" and light coats. don't do the fucking squirt squirt squirt shit you see every youtuber do, easy consistent passes. hold the can upright.

>>2775589
I mean you are ultimately limited by the drywall board itself. why don['t you post in the new thread and indicate anchor and object to hang instead of talking theoretical. sometimes it just makes sense to just find a stud. regardless of what you hang if there are multiple attachment points you should shift it until at least one hits a stud.

so again, wtf are you hanging and what are you wanting to hang it on?

>>2775384
>Are these posts real
no. and women will displace men in the trades when trannies outpace amab tradies. you have fucking nothing to worry about.

>>2774854
potato gun that shoots D-cells

>>2774738
there a half a dozen or more methods of plug/strain a standard kitchen sink drain, just look for a decent one or get a non-worn to fuck version of what you have.

>>2775868
>what is the meaning of this?
It means this thread is currently on page 5 and will only fall farther down in the catalog.

A new thread has been posted here: >>2775866

The new thread will bump to the top of the catalog each time there is a reply.

>>2775867
Too soon. It takes a while here to get to page 10.

>>2775871
>consider vasoline instead of plastic wrap (one will have folds and get embedded).
Sometimes it's better for me to over-protect the original rather than get a good surface finish IMO. I can do some cleanup work on the clones. I'm testing this for several reasons but one is that I have a form that seems to have been all but discontinued and the original creator is long dead. No one's losing money from me cloning it but the scalpers online. That also means I don't know if a replacement is available if I end up screwing it up so I'm willing to have to do some post pour cleanup to be able to keep the real one dry and clean. Everything else seems like a good idea though. Also I tried using rags to cover something and quickly discovered they're too thick to grab detail and need way more plaster coating them so it pools on whatever it's placed on. It's also shit to remove from an item and near impossible to make mold halves out of.