/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Thanks op

what's your favorite filament supplier, anon?

Does tpu make a decent gasket? It's that or buy some liquid gasket for a project i'm making.

>>2733814
Overture, Polymaker's American division. Same filaments, but coming out of centralized distribution in Texas, so for Americans it's cheaper than just buying Polymaker.
PrintedSolid's Jessie PLA is great stuff, consistent, comes in a huge variety of colors including my absolute favorite filament of all time: Amiga 500 Beige (I really hope they make more, I'm almost through my stash.)

>>2733824
It can, but prints tend to not have perfectly smooth top surfaces, and sanding TPU isn't an option, so you gotta have that shit dialed if you want to make clean and smooth sealing surfaces. You can also use a silicone gasket sealant to help ensure a good seal with only a minimal amount of silicone.

>>2733825
>Overture, Polymaker's American division.
Is polymaker the only filament producer?
>produces bambu's
>produces overtures
>produces their own
>Produces ____ ?

>>2733842
They're one of the most prolific in the world, and probably the single most prominent Chinese filament producer at this point, nudging out eSun.
Many (not all) of the Inland line of filaments at Microcenter are Polymaker
Many (not all) Bambu filaments are Polymaker
Raise3D is all Polymaker
XYZPrinting with their da Vinci printers, that's all Polymaker filament
Overture is its own company here in the US but it was founded and is operated by the founder of Polymaker, and they get all of their materials from Polymaker
AmazonBasics was previously Polymaker, and that deal is actually what led to Overture. Don't know who makes it now, actually I'm not even sure if AmazonBasics filament is still a thing?
They also make most of the super low-temp PLA that's sold for or packaged with 3D printing pens - If you ever see the stuff that melts at <100C, that's Polymaker.
Big company, many arms, very good filament provided with great documentation.

>>2733857
How do i know if my supplier is secretly Polymaker?

>>2733863
That's the neat part, you don't. :)

>>2733837
>>2733839
>>2733854
Creality will LITERALLY send you a new extruder if you have the old extruders on the k1 for FREE. look and see if you have the old one, contact Creality support, and get the new one. There are literal hundreds of customers, and tons of reports on r*ddit where plenty of people are having no issues at all with their printers now that they have the upgraded hot end, extruder, etc. Furthermore, you already HAVE the fucking $500 printer, the micro-swiss hot end is 60 dollhairs, is cold swappable, and doesn't clog. Starting to think you actually are just a "troll".

>>2733870
He is just a troll, a persistent shit-tier troll who sucks bearded cock for a living.

>>2733824
any tpu that's flexible enough for a gasket is a nightmare to print. People will print 95A TPU and claim they can print flexibles but 70A and under can only really be considered flexibles and they are a nightmare. Just buy the liquid gasket.

>>2733814
anything made in europe
extrudr is one of them

Filament strings a LOT and also the supports get stuck to the model very securely. Any suggestions? I tried lowering temp a bit already.. PLA obviously.

>>2734039
Might need to lower it more, might to to adjust retraction settings for this filament.

>>2733814
Prusament and Bambu. I refuse to push any other plastic through my printers.

>>2734039
Dry your filament and enable arachne mode in prusa slicer.

>>2733870
No thanks, I am going to buy the a1 like the other anon suggested. Want this a1? Whats your address? I'll box the piece of shit up and send it to you.

>>2734074
Er k1. Fuck creality.

>>2733814
Prusament, Bambu, SUNLU all worked perfectly every time for me. On the contrary, eSUN was fucking worthles every fucking time I tried it, dont know why people praise it.

>>2733814
https://www.material4print.de/
Shit's actually made in Germany, if you're into local vendors. Haven't had any problems yet.

>>2734074
not him but I'll take it :)

I'm printing useless trinkets for my young distant relatives and there's nothing you can do about it!!!!

>>2734253
Looks like that's the "Cute mini ocotpus"?

I hope 70 C filament dryer is enough for carbon fiber filaments. I can't use a toaster oven like some of these crazy people.

>>2734264
Faggots in swamps will say it's not, but it is if you don't live in perpetual soup fog.

>Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
>Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
>Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
>Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
>Architects: Sketchup
Which one(s) is good at specifying the real world dimensions of an object?

>>2734284
Okay good. It's humid here during summer but I usually run a dehumidifier then. During winter it is dry enough to actually hurt me.

>>2734288
I use blender and use real-world dimensions -- in imperial units. Occasionally in metric. Export as STL with no special settings.
Import into orcaslicer. Sometimes orcaslicer says "U WANNA CONVERT THIS TO MILLIMETERS?" and I say "YES" and it comes out the right size without any fuss.

>>2734288
All CAD software.
Literally everything on that list except Blender, which is not CAD software.

>>2734288
>>2734294
Openscad does not have this feature.

>>2734289
something like +3-4 hours per 10c difference is a good rule of thumb I just pulled out of my asshole. so if it specifies 4 hours at 90c, then do like 12 hours at 70 (or ideally overnight 20+ hours, that'll dry it right the fuck out). and also make a drybox to keep it in so you really only have to do it once, especially if you go through the effort to make it feed through.

>>2734297
Specifying dimensions? That's literally all it does, that's what SCAD is. Am I not understand what you're trying to ask here? OpenSCAD is unitless if that's what you mean, but so is the whole stl file format.

>>2734294
blender does have that feature and it's enabled by DEFAULT in metres and those measurements will go into your STL. Problem is most model makers are artists not engineers so their model of a car will be 300 metres long.

>>2734315
Yeah this is confusing to me. You're talking about units, not dimensions.
>>2734288
Units. Dimensions are measurements, all 3D modeling is based around dimensions, there is no 3D model or even 2D sketch without dimensions. Did you mean units? As in, specifying the units you're working with, what units your dimensions are in.

>>2734322
I am talking about both units and dimensions. With little effort blender can output accurate and consistent dimensions to your slicer. See pic
If you're happy with mesh editing blender is a good tool for cad

>>2734326
Yes, I'm aware of that. I'm saying this nigga doesn't know what question he just asked: >>2734288

>>2734327
It looks more like you're intentionally being obtuse in misunderstanding what "real world dimensions" means.
>specify 8cm in modeling software
>prints at 8cm as expected
I don't see why you're splitting hairs over the distinction between dimensions and units when it should have been clear what anonymous was asking.

>>2734338
He's just trying to insult our beloved blender.
He's a hater and will never change, next week he'll be talking about how "parametric modelling is better" and how "blender's python api isn't good enough because it's not CAD focused"

>>2734339
Oh I didn't realize I was talking to the "blender isn't CAD" autist. Thanks anon, I'll drop it.

>>2734338
It was not clear at all what he was asking.
>>2734340
Blender is CAD, it's just not BREP modeling, who cares?

My hose clogs and filament stripping stopped when I put some vegetable oil on the inside of the spool and the little bar that holds it up. Kind of disappointed I didn't think of it earlier.

>>2734303
I meant that you can't specify real world dimensions in Openscad (eg 5 cm). You assign units of measurement but they don't translate to a metric system.
My initial question >>2734288 was if there is a CAD software that lets you design objects using a specific metric system instead of abstract measurement units. This needed when you want to produce replacement parts for a machine or when you are building something piece by piece.

>>2734382
That makes perfect sense, and I think it's been well answered by now. Virtually all BREP modelers, "typical" CAD software, use specific units, but it's not unusual for some mesh modelers and SCAD software to not use specific measurements. Blender, despite being mesh modeling, does use specific units thankfully. There are also CAD related add-ons for Blender as well to give more of the features people expect from typical BREP modelers, which is pretty fucking cool in my mind. As someone who fucking despises FreeCAD, the idea of CAD-feature-rich Blender is extremely enticing. There's no universe where I can see replacing Fusion360 with FreeCAD, but Blender has weight behind it, if they wanted to push for CAD capabilities I'm confident they could shit all over FreeCAD as it currently exists.

why the fuck is this happening, i have only this problem with the filament brand "ERYONE Matte PLAs". literally with none this is happening perfict first layers but this is ripping all layers apart stopping printing at all...

>>2734425
>harroo?? eryone????

>>2734427
Addendum: Im 8 years old and this joke was peak comedy in my mind.

>>2734425
what print surface even is that?
Standard things you should do:
1. clean whatever print surface that is
2. buy a powder coated PEI sheet to replace whatever print surface that is
3. dry your filament
4. stop ordering chinese filament
5. bump the bed temps up 10C for the first layer
6. bump the nozzle temps up 10C for the first layer

>open brand new Sunlu filament
>been sitting on a shelf for a long time, but still visibly vacuum-sealed straight from the factory
>notice that the filament seems to be brittle
>not super brittle, but will snap like a dry noodle when bending 180 degrees
Do some filaments just do that normally? I'd always heard that snapping was the litmus test for bad filament that had sat in open air too long, and it's what I've always used as a benchmark for my other Sunlu filaments, but I think this is the first time I've ever had one that snapped fresh out of the box. Like I said, it was still vacuum-sealed with desiccant and everything, too.
Also, even when my other filaments HAVE gone brittle, it's generally just the bit toward the cut end of the spool. I can usually go around a foot or two into the length of the spool until it stops snapping off and starts bending instead, and it works fine after that. No such luck here, I went through multiple feet of the new spool with no change.
It seems to print fine so far, at least.

>>2734425
From what I know, roughness like that is characteristic of the nozzle being slightly too close to the bed, causing it to drag in the layer of plastic that it's putting down and scuff it up.
If you're sure that your bed's level/it never happens with other filaments though, then I don't know.

What does a slicer do if the height of the object being printed isn't exactly divisible by the chosen layer height? Does it squish one layer?

sorry for stupid question but does anyone know where the "strain gauge" is on the K1/K1 Max?
Supposedly that's what got janked and they are sending me replacement parts

>>2734448
The print ends up being too short or too tall by some amount. For example, a 19.95mm tall model at 0.2mm layer height will give you a 20mm print, whereas a 19.85mm tall model at the same 0.2mm layer height would give you a 19.8mm print. You can observe this in the slicer directly.

>>2734448
I'll squish your layers ;)
(I too wish to know the answer)

>>2734451
The only strain gauges I know of on a K1 would be in the bed, they copied what Bambu was doing for bed leveling. I don't know if they use a single or an array of 3 - 4. I'd expect an array, but anything's possible with Creality behind it.

>>2734425
looks like clogging, or maybe the nozzle temp is waaaaay too low. i've used eryone matt pla with a smooth PEI sheet before without issue, so i don't think it's an adhesion problem

>>2734425
>perfict first layers
>doubt
The leveling looks fine at a glance, but the z-offset looks too close to the bed.

>>2734456
ok great, thanks at least know what to look for now

can you do .4 lines with a .6 nozzle if i wanted moar speed but also be able to have slightly higher detail when desired?

>>2734454
That seems like the worst possible solution. Better to print one layer at the wrong height than to have the entire print be the wrong total height, wouldn't it?

>>2734481
It is literally just one layer that's wrong, anon.

>>2734484
According to >>2734454 the entire print ends up the wrong height because there are no wrong layers.

>>2734480
You can do 0.6 lines with a 0.4 nozzle

>>2734481
>>2734485
I was confused by the wording, but I see what you're saying. They can do that too! You still have to deal with the minimum height at which you can reliably print, but you may get closer working in increments of, just for example, 0.04mm instead of the "full" layer height of 0.2mm. For example, the 19.85mm print, could be done with 0.2mm for the first 99 layers, then a final 0.04mm layer to bring it to 19.84mm total, much closer to the original. You do have the option to do it that way, and the ability to control how it's done. Look into PrusaSlicer's Variable Layer Height feature for a little more insight into what you can do with it.

>>2734486
but you can do .8 with a .6, so if .4 is also doable then it is by far the most versatile size.

>>2734491
Its not, you will have to pick between speed and detail

>>2734492
daww

>>2734480
No, no you cannot. You can push big lines from smaller nozzles, not the other way around. If you want speeeeeeed, then print with a nice fat line width at a nice fat layer height. Your speed limit is volumetric flow, and a 0.4mm nozzle is capable of quite a lot. 12+ cubic millimeters per second printing PLA is TYPICAL of modern hotends with 0.4mm nozzles, are you printing 0.4mm lines and 0.2mm layer height at 150mm/s continuous? 12 cubic millimeters per second is a lot, that's a whole 1kg roll of PLA every 67 seconds, it's enough to push a 0.8mm wide line and 0.4mm layer height at 40mm/s. If you've got headroom for speed, use it!

>>2734495
>are you printing 0.4mm lines and 0.2mm layer height at 150mm/s continuous?
p1s, so sometimes yes

>>2734497
>Sometimes

>>2734495
also,
>12 mm3/s
>1 kg/m
i think your numbers are off?

>>2734506
gotta slow down for turns and small features sometimes

>>2734518
>i think your numbers are off?
By a lot, I skipped a step there. 67,000 seconds, that's a bit over 18 and a half hours. I'm glad you noticed, embarrassed I didn't catch it while I was typing.

>>2734487
>but you may get closer working in increments of, just for example, 0.04mm instead of the "full" layer height of 0.2mm. For example, the 19.85mm print, could be done with 0.2mm for the first 99 layers, then a final 0.04mm layer to bring it to 19.84mm total, much closer to the original
I just don't see why it couldn't do 98 0.2mm layers and then one 0.12mm and one 0.13mm layer to get it to exactly 19.85mm. Moreso, I don't see why doing something like that isn't the default behavior for all slicers.
I use Cura rather than PrusaSlicer, but regardless I feel like it would be universally more desirable to have a few squished layers than to have all layers at the specified height resulting in a print that is out of spec.

>>2734425
Should have bought a prusa

>>2734530
The norm is uniformity, a shitty old printer 10 years ago had to be finely tuned to get good prints. Every fucking setting mattered, and when you got that *perfect* tune for 0.2mm layer heights and 0.442mm line width, it was shit at any other layer height. We also had terrible drivers and primitive firmware. The earliest shit had no real microstepping at all, only able to hold FULL FUCKING STEPS with shitty interpolating between them. I've owned printers that quite simply *can't* produce a 0.13mm layer. We've moved way past that of course, and most people have modern drivers, 32-bit mainboards, and use current slicers. I think what you're suggesting would be reasonable to consider as the default at this point. That said, it is still totally doable currently with most slicers. Hell, you can even do it manually like in this example.

>>2734456
There's 4 strain gauges in a K1, one at each corner.

Why don't they just limit current to the steppers and push until they skip instead?

>print something with brand new filament spool
>never had any problems with this brand in the past
>95% of the print is great, but a few layers at the bottom and a few layers in the middle look like dogshit
>holes in the layers like the printer was spitting out drops of filament instead of a steady stream
What the hell happened? I've never seen this before.

>>2734659
you've either got a shitty extruder that's too weak to push the filament or you've got bad filament.
Any extruder that looks like the image to the left is crap and cannot be relied upon. Buy a bondtech

>>2734679
That's the sort of extruder I have, but it's never given me this issue in the multiple years I've been using it.

>>2734684
take out the brass gear and look at the threads to see if they're worn then take off the whole extruder, throw it away and replace it with a bondtech LGX lite.
In fact, from my experience only shitty chinese bed slingers come with those extruders so just throw the whole printer away and get a voron. You can thank me later.

>>2734180
firma dankt

>>2734689
>just spend 80bucks on an extruder
Considering we're talking about a cheap Ender or similar, the M4 exists for a fraction of that cost and doesn't require fiddling with your printhead.

>>2734679
>>2734706
If i would get a new extruder, do I have to change something on the firmware side of things or is that still all in slicer's printer profile?

>>2734425

im sorry for my stupidity, so its a prusa mk3 with different upgrades incl. a bondtech extruder upgrade. As mentioned earlier other filaments had no troubles with first layer etc. but my error was when assembling the extruder i forgot one small bearing on the gear (see picture). Somehow it was working good enough for some filaments for others it wasnt. obv it was my fault and was designated to fail anytime soon (which it did). I will check next time before posting it online. :)

>>2734739

>>2734721
Yes you would, you'd have to calibrate the extruder steps and maybe the extrusion direction. If you're getting a new motor you may need to re-terminate the ends.

>>2734706
That is an abomination, if you're going to upgrade your extruder you may as well go to a direct drive setup. If you want cheap but good, go for a papilio belt extruder and 3d print the parts yourself. At least then you will have a high quality direct drive extruder for only £30
https://github.com/kevinakasam/Papilio-Belt-Extruder

is the slicer setting "inner wall first, outer wall second" and "outer wall first, inner wall second" as simple as the wall that gets printed first having the chance for higher dimensional accuracy?

>>2734656
That can be done, but it's not very precise. Marlin supports that out of the box so long as you have the right stepper drivers, but I really don't recommend it. It's just not very good, and comes with other concerns/trade-offs.

That print a brick website is shit, the dimensions of the bricks are wrong on the stl

>>2734800
Because Lego. The explanation behind it is long and incredibly gay, just know it's Lego that you have to blame. Everything used to be perfect, there was a brief window of time when Lego and 3D printing made for phenomenal joint hobbies, and TLG chose to ruin it.

>>2734781
outer-inner increases dimensional accuracy since the reverse allows for the outer wall line to be displaced slightly by the inner wall when it is laid down. inner-outer is better for unsupported overhangs and bridges since it will print outwards from the part giving itself anchor points for the walls to attach to.

>>2734746
>That is an abomination
Strong entrance for a brit.

>>2734828
makes sense, thanks

Finally sick of the low speed of the CR-6SE (not any other problems with it beyond 85mm/s being the viable max and 50mm/s being the fastest you'd want to go for any decent surface quality). Debating on whether to go for the Bambu A1 or the P1S. Don't care about multi-colour printing, do care about the possibility of printing materials that need an enclosure, but already have the CR-6SE in an insulated box anyway. Is the extra £300 worth it to leave the realm of bedslingers and DIY enclosures?

>>2734869
>Bambu A1
So you purchased a shitty bedslinger printer and now you want to replace it with another shitty bedslinger printer.
Have a look at the fast printers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQh1aNwr4Aw
Notice anything???
I'll give you a clue... none of them are bedslingers because bedslingers suck.
You want fast? get a corexy printer either a ratrig or a voron.

>>2734871
>layershifts into another zipcode
I appreciate the effort of making that thing churn out something remotely resembling a landfill-boat at those values, but jesus christ lmao

>>2734871
>Received wisdom is great! Testing is pointless! All bedslingers and all CoreXY printers are the same!

Actual tested print times for A1 vs. P1S are of little difference, with extreme unsupported overhangs (70°+) being the only situation where the A1/mini need to slow down.
If you want truly fast, then you invert-bed and use a cable-robot for the head on an air-bed and build the entire frame out of epoxy-granite. But we're looking at off-the-shelf printers here, not fart-arsing about with the Voron cult and similar bullshit.

>>2734885
Bedslingers are a poor design for speed. Having to move the entire model in the y axis will give you worse results than if the model is stationary. Especially if you have a delicate model.
The point of looking at the best of the best in printing is that the best of the best tend to converge to the optimal design which in this case is corexy.
The bambu printers have pathetic hotends so it's not surprising their print times are almost the same. The limit is the hotend not the chassis

>>2734888
If I wanted "best of the best" I'd be skipping FDM entirely and gong straight to powder-bed sintering with parallel laser modules.
But in the real-world rather than fantasy-land where printers cost actual money, the Vorons and the like can be discounted out of hand as costing closer to the X1C (even as vitamins kits with print-your-own components) so not even worth a consideration. And again in real-world, the Ai is achieving more than adequate speed at good quality, so not being able to print spindles with globes on top is not something anyone gives a shit about.

>>2734871
what's the fastest that doesn't look like a pile of loosely associated spaghetti?

>>2734889
a ratrig or voron is around £800 for the lower end and £2k for the high end. By the time you've gone through 2 shitty chinese printers you've already spent £700 so the stretch to a voron or ratrig is negligable. With a voron you get the benefits of an open design which can be tailored to your specific use case which unless you're using 3d printing solely for printing baby yoda heads and trinkets for children is something you will want to do. 3D printers are engineering tools and should be treated as such. The nicest thing you can say about the bambu XC1 is that it's the "apple iphone" of 3d printers. Why would you ever want to spend more on a less capable machine? It's an engineering tool not a fashion statement. If you're too stupid to teardown and fix your 3D printer then you shouldn't be using one in the first place because all your designs will be retarded.
The powder bed printers are closing in on £50k so I don't know why you brought them up.

>>2734895
>Voron cultists
Fuck off, I'm not spending double for a printer I still need to print and assembly myself, then jumping through random tuning hoops and goat sacrifices, just for a few mm/s of theoretical speed.
Go fuck your own hotend, 0.6mm is more than enough.

>>2734896
I own a ratrig not a voron

>>2734895
>It's an engineering tool not a fashion statement
ANY DIY printer is a fashion statement rather than an 'engineering tool'. You think people assemble their own VMCs from a parts kit?

Why the hell do you need to print at the speed of sound any way?

>>2734906
When I upgraded from an ender 3 to a ratrig my print times were 1/3.
I only have a finite amount of time available to me and the savings have been immense.

>>2734908
I only have a finite amount of time available to me
As do we all. Print while you're doing other things don't stare at your printer for 30 minutes.

>>2734895
>a ratrig or voron is around £800 for the lower end
Have you slept in the last four years? Your comment is delusional at best.

>>2734906
Unless you're having an actual shop or project with many revisions you really don't need to.

>>2734814
I managed to get something to fit by adjusting the sizes in the slicer before printing. Glad this was just a small piece thats sandwiched in
>>2734869
I have a P1S and its nice, but the enclosures filter doesn't have a proper filter if you're doing ABS. You'd need to somehow fit in a hepa filter and the carbon

>>2734898
>We're not the Judean People's Front! We're the People's Front of Jude!

>>2734928
I just priced a low end voron 2.4 and holy shit @_@ $3400 usd. What. The. Fuck.
Unless you buy a kit, you're fucked.

>>2734895
For the $800 I'll buy a prusa and have that world class customer service and 5 years of support and million hours of printing.

>>2734895
I built a voron 2 years ago. I never use it. It's the biggest pain in the ass I've ever attempted. I can't get it to print reliably. Yeah yeah skill issue. But it shouldn't be this hard. I've had several printers throughout the years and vorons are simply not it chief. You have to be some sort of sadomasochist. I used to think it would be fun. At first it was. Now it's just a collection of parts that nobody wants. I tried to sell it. Nobody knows how to fix it. Nobody wants it. Never again. Waste of money and time.

>>2734955
This. I choose prusa because I'm white.

>>2734955
Isnt the prusa just a slightly better ender 3?
Im looking at the kobra 2 pro specs and that one seems like its best. At a fraction of the cost of a prusa too.

>>2734987
The difference in quality can't be understated with a Prusa. They're simple, but they're EXTREMELY well refined. They're overpriced in my opinion, but not by any wide margin. It's not a "slightly better Ender 3," it's leaps and bounds better, with higher quality parts, refined and feature rich firmware out of the box, and real customer support. There's no real comparison between a Prusa machine and chinkbait printers like you get from Creality, Anycubic, Sovol, Elegoo, Kingroon, you get the idea.

>>2734991
The nozzle is the same as the kobra so the print quality should be around the same... The customer support and "high quality parts/firmware" must be the main draw?

>>2734994
Print quality depends on a whole hell of a lot more than the just the nozzle.
Also, they do not have the same nozzle.

>two of the same printer
>put exact same gcode on both
>one comes out fine but the other comes out a complete mess at the bottom
What hardware-related problem can cause this? Trying to search about issues that look like this just gives me results about changing things in the gcode, but that's definitely not the problem here.

>two of the same printer
>put exact same gcode on both
>one comes out fine but the other comes out a complete mess at the bottom
What hardware-related problem can cause this? Trying to search about issues that look like this just gives me results about changing things in the gcode, but that's definitely not the problem here.

>>2735009
Maybe its the firmware. Try flashing it.

>>2735009
Z-offset, the distance from the bed, one had a good first layer, the other was likely too close.
It's also possible that the bed adhesion was poor on the one printer, causing the extremities to slowly curl upwards while it was printing.

>>2734959
Where do you live, or are you trying to sell for full price? Plenty of Vorons going around here, but they're often pressed below the magical 1k line unless really modded.

>>2734987
>>2734994
I'm almost not sure if this is bait. Impressive. Prusas are probably the closest thing to a print and forget experience outside Bambu. There's just no point in comparing an MK4 or MK3 to an ender, They're worlds apart. That said, we still hate Josef for his ridiculous pricing.

>>2735009
What printer?..
Tram your bed, check your led screw.

>>2735013
>we still hate Josef for his ridiculous pricing.
I don't mind the price, but he needs to include more for the prices he's asking. For $800 he should include the mmu3 with the mk4 and a motion sensor.

I say this while having both the a1 and a mk4. The mk4 prints better than the a1 more often. You can get good prints out of the a1, but it suffers from a few issues. One being bed adhesion. Why are we still suffering from this? Layer shifting on a print, stop the print, run it again and magically it prints perfectly. Sometimes the tops of the prints are messy. I love my p1p but hate the a1. But yeah if you can afford it, get a prusa. The mk3s+ is $600 for the kit. I ended up buying another one for my print farm. I'm loving the mk4 though.

It's sad that still in 2024 (in 2 days) that we do not have anything that can dethrone prusa. We need it. Badly. I'm aware of the prusa knockoff on aliexpress. I ordered one. Search mk3s bear on aliexpress. It's less than $300. Lots of good reviews on it. Runs prusa firmware.

>>2735013
Corning ny. I listed it on Facebook for $600 "as is not working". Parts functional but doesn't print reliable. Idk why it acts funny. It'll print, get like a few hundred layers, and print in mid air above the print by like 4cm. Like it moves the head up and prints mid air. Asking in the forums gets me ridiculed. No help. I swear the voron community is so toxic.
>skill issue
>works on my machine
>get good
Like bitch I'm trying.
I get bad print quality. Lines aren't uniform.
>let me guess you bought an aliexpress kit heubheuheu
No, bought parts from Amazon over time. I have had more luck here getting help. I haven't touched the machine in 4 months. I'm over it.

>>2735025
Have you considered throwing everything Klipper related in the garbage? That's how I fixed the Voron at work.
No more can-bus, no more accelerometer, no more bullshit. The Pi runs Octoprint, the MKS Monster8 runs Marlin. Everything works perfectly, everything's easy.

>>2735030
I might install marlin on it. Voron 2.4 R2 Full Set Electronics Kit with Octopus Pro V1.0.1 Pi BTT TFT43 V2.1 TMC2209 V1.3 42 Stepper Motor Hotend Power Supply 3D Printer Accessories for Voron 2.4 3D Printer Klipper Screen https://a.co/d/0sArOnh
Here's the board I'm using. Thanks I'll give marlin a go. I like marlin. It's old but it works.

God I love petg vs pla. The results are miles ahead. Pla is nice if you just want to see what it looks like but if you want function, petg is where it's at.

>>2735020
>It's sad that still in 2024 (in 2 days) that we do not have anything that can dethrone prusa. We need it. Badly.
Define dethrone and what do we need, another trinity of good product, software and support, but cheaper? That's just not economical viable inside the western world and looking towards China, you get Bambu as the next best thing.

>>2735025
Voron community suffers from too much growth in a short time. Ironically you're best off asking in the discord, as that's where most of the core members hang out.

>>2735030
I loathed your comment. Friend of mine ended his Klipper adventures last summer? by throwing RepRap on it. No issues since then. It's really laughable how overhyped Klipper has become when most end users are rather chasing print and forget machines.

>>2735041
I got the pla+ and even thats kind of brittle

>>2735010
What would be wrong with the firmware to cause this? Genuinely asking, I don't know exactly what the firmware is/isn't responsible for but I was under the impression any version of firmware would read gcode in the same way and therefore not be a possible point of failure here.

>>2735011
>>2735013
Longer LK5 pro, the bed leveling/z offset is manual and I manually leveled both right before this print, so the leveling and z offset were the same. The one with the problem I've had for a while and the one without the problem is newer, the old one has always had very slight swelling on the first ~8 layers but I had thought that was just normal based on what I could find about the problem online until getting another one to compare with; although obviously the old one doesn't usually look like that image, it's usually just a slight dimensional difference, but this particular crate model came out especially visually fucked so I'm using it as an example to hopefully illustrate the problem.

I don't think it can be bed adhesion since even brand-new my first few layers were expanding a bit (again, thought this was just an unavoidable consequence of the process, which is apparently not the case) but I'll try flipping the lead screw around and seeing if that affects it in any way.

>>2735047
I cant point exactly what might be wrong with the firmware. It might have a bug idk. It doesnt hurt to update though.

>>2735041
Did you even bother reading the descriptions of the different filaments?

Are those aliexpress pei sheets dogshit for adhesion or is it just me? For pla atleast i can't get anything to stick even after cleaning it with ipa.

I recently changed nozzles to a Sidewinder X2 and I'm faced with this problem of layers not sticking.
What can I do to fix it? This isn't in any troubleshooting manual out there.

>>2735069
Pid tune.

>>2735069
Tram your bed.

>>2735046
Petg is so nice. It's a bit more temperature. Like 240-260. Print a temp tower. But I printed a pc case on my mk4. Pla+ parts kept splitting under basic weight. Switched to petg and it just works. Switch to petg for functional parts friend. Its worth the little extra I paid imho. Petg can be grippy. Use a glue stick.

>>2735074
Id also have to upgrade my ender 3 then i think...

>>2735069
Ok, found out the problem.
When I reassembled the extruder system (yes, I followed the Artillery 3D instructions) I put the cooling fan in reverse, so new layers flought everywhere.

Alright, the molds were destroyed and probably wont work again but still loved how these turned out

>>2735092

>>2735092
Nice work, anon.

is there any advantage to printing the infill before the perimeters?

>>2735096
See: >>2734828

>>2735097
>infill

>>2735099
>Same Answer

>>2735092
>>2735093
Very cute.

>>2733806
ender 3d or bambu labs something something?

>>2735117
I personally like the kobra. I got an ender 3 cause it was cheap. Print time does matter if you dont want to spend the whole day in one print. It can also get hot asf.

>>2735131
Oh... I read the farenheit stats for the temperature...

So how do i upgrade the hot end anyways? What temperature would i be able to get for my ender 3 with the mod?

>>2735134
Just save up and get the a1 mini.

>>2735136
I already bought the ender 3 might as well upgrade it instead of having to sell it and buy another printer

>>2735137
Sunk cost fallacy.

>>2735137
I would rather save up and get a prusa mk4 or a bambu printer than trying to shine a turd from a shit company like creality. They've always been shit. I hate creality more than you could possibly understand. They're the hp of 3d printing. They produce barely usable printers. Always have always will. I'd rather you buy a mk3 bear from aliexpress than keep that pile of rubbish.

>>2735025
That sounds almost like a model or slicer issue. Does it happen for every large print? The printer itself inherently shouldn't be able to do that which is probably the cause for the ridicule.

>>2735137
to get a decent hotend you will need to change the entire tool head. if you wanted to go all out and waste money on your printer you can swap the guide wheels out for a linear rail and put the EVA3 toolhead on there.
https://main.eva-3d.page/
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4916779
That will allow you to have a proper hotend like the phaetus rapido and a proper cooling fan.

>>2735146
Oh okay. Yeah again i like the kobra. You guys dont like the kobra?

>>2735147
what you've bought is chinese crap
it is chinese and it is crap
nobody wants chinese crap

>>2735134
>>2735137
Don't fall for the meme. Sell it and get a decent printer. By the time you finally upgraded your ender into something useful you will have spend the same money and more hours for the same result.
Alternatively just buy a new printer and keep your ender for parts, an edm or other project.

Can the (P1/X1) AMS be mounted to the side, or does it have to go on top of the printer? Already have a nice cubby-hole for the current printer, but wouldn't fit with the AMS on top.

>>2735165
You got me curious, ams works fine off to the side and even printed pic related just fine until it was time to retract the filament.

>>2735171
Picture was rotated 90 degrees and the ams is not levitating.

>>2735171
LOL, I meant normal way up but placed next to the side of the printer, not actually up on its side! I was more thinking if it would throw a hissy fit if the PTFE tube to the AMS was greatly extended in order to do that.

>>2735202
>I meant normal way up but placed next to the side of the printer
Figured but once i thought of it i had to try it on its side.

>>2733814
Atomic
>Made in USA
>can buy mostly full rolls for half price if you don't care about color
yeah i like em

Whats a decent printer with at minimum a 10 inch printing area?
I am attempting to make my perfect desktop...a recreation of the imac g4 but not Apple bullshit. The housing of the half sphere dome MUST be 10 inches both for an accurate recreation and for general room to house my components.
I of course looked into the ever popular ender3/ender5 and found they were too small to accommodate the 10inch half sphere required for this project.

>>2735223
10 inch = 254mm so I would say a non a1 bambu except they have that fuckin exclusion zone so that's a nope. just look for a printer with a 270-300mm2 build plate.

>>2735223
Bambulab a1
Its 10x10x10

>>2735223
If its a 1 off send the stl file in to have printed for you.

>>2735226
Since the print is a circle rather than a square, the filament-cuter exclusion zone is an absolute non-issue, as its in a corner.

>>2735228
>>2735235
im a double idiot and youre both right.
(i was thinking of the a1 mini btw)

>>2733824
Gasket FOR WHAT PURPOSE? Generally, no. Learn to ask specific questions so you are not given incorrect advise. Some time on the Henkel and other sites of form-in-place gasket mfrs will serve you well because there is considerable variety.

is it just me or is polylite petg a stringing nightmare? do i have to dry it? only asking because i have quite literally never had to dry any filament ive ever used, other than nylon.

>>2735271
PETG is notoriously hygroscopic, yes you should dry it if it's showing signs that it isn't dry.

I'm looking at a <$3 titanium hotend for the ender 3...

>>2735272
thats what the consensus is, but ive used at least 10 kilos of petg between 3 or 4 other mfgs and not one had to be dried to give satisfactory non spider webby results. still ill pop it in the dryer for a day and see if it helps.

>>2735279
Usually when I use petg, I'll use it up. The projects I beed petg for generally tend to blow through it.

>>2735274
I don't care. If you want to be a poorfag for the rest of your life, you're in the wrong hobby. The ender 3 is trash as are you for trying to make it work. It's not impressive, it's pathetic at this point. All the cool kids use bambulabs printers and all the good white people use prusas. All the gentoo nerds use vorons. You're in the minority now.

>>2735274
I've had good luck on my old ender with a copper+titanium heat brake, copper heat block and cht knockoff nozzle for high (bedslinger) speeds and flows. ive even done pa and pc blends and they come out great even at "high" speeds (with glue stick, big brim and printable reverse flow heat brake fan to keep it from blowing on the part). less than $50 with tax since a lot of stock parts get reused.

>>2735171
Fucking love that x1c, 95% of my prints just work™. One of the few downsides
>no build volume upgrades without buying a whole new unit

So is polymaker recommended for everything? I was going to order some TPU from bambu
>out of stock of everything but piss yellow
Only thing I don't like about polymaker is that they use cardboard spools. I don't want to waste my filament for more spools.

>>2735303
I have the p1s. It is by far the best printer I have ever used from China. Like my #2 goto printer are my bambu printers. There's a few drawbacks that I always find myself explaining to people.
>Make sure the computer you're slicing from doesn't contain any data you don't want leaked because bambu studio is spyware.
Outside of that, great printers. I like the profiles. If you can swing it, the prusa is still the better buy. I rely on my prusas for money making but bambu labs would be my goto if I had to start all over again. They're a great investment.

>>2735310
Bambu filament for bambu printers. It can print other filaments but I personally wouldnt trust anything else.
Prusament in prusa printers. Wouldnt trust anything else.
If you want to roll the dice, go for it. I'm done gambling on hotends.

>>2735311
Yeah I should move bambu studio to another computer. I wasn't even thinking about that.
>money making
I have been pondering making some dosh off of trickets and shit.

>>2735312
>wouldn't trust anything else
>roll the dice
What issues are you having? I have so far used sunlu, isanmate (the fuck even is this? Wood filament), bambu (which is supposed to be polymaker anyway) and overture PETG. Outside of having to adjust some settings for my prints I haven't had any issues.

>>2735311
>>2735313
or just use orcaslicer. the printer itself is doing god knows what connected to wifi on its own anyway unless you do lan mode, which again who knows if it actually respects it or if it silently sniffs for open networks to use (wasnt this a 2 day controversy for smart tvs or some shit back in the day before it was buried?)

>>2735310
go back up to the very 2nd post in this thread and read the short discussion chain about polymaker

>>2735315
My printer is only on when I'm printing thankfully.
>2nd post
I know, I am just bitching that polymaker uses cardboard spools.

>>2735313
I make more from functional parts than i do trinkets. 87 cents for a functional part vs 23 cents for a trinket that uses significantly more plastic. I just don't use bambu at work because we have strict infosec rules. My only gripe is that the machines are crippled without the internet.
That being said I just got 4 mk4 kits. Putting them together. The first mk4 I got was assembled. It's way nicer than the mk3s+. I don't like input shaping on them. Bambus input shaping works better.
At work we have $5000 machines and the mk4 prints like a $5000 machine. The p1ses and a1 that I have print well enough. Better then creality trash. I'd say 95% of prints come off looking great. On the a1 I noticed layer shifting. Figured out why it happens. When it poops out plastic, it gets stuck under the bed causing issues. I used some tape and made a chute for it. Doesnt help. I don't recommend the a1. I haven't figured out how to just print a purge tower. I'm sure there's a way to do it. I have other things going on though. Figured I would share the info while I'm bathing.
>>2735314
> Outside of having to adjust some settings
Ding ding ding ding I just use the profiles in my slicer. I'm not going to sit and adjust shit. Not when I can just order 50kg of filament and have it work reliably.

>>2735313
>>2735315
Bambu Studio is just Prusa Slicer, code is on GitHub so any spyware would have been noted by now. The printer itself can just get shoved in a DMZ on its own VLAN so no issue there either. Or just switch to LAN mode and treat it like Octoprint.

>>2735313
>I have been pondering making some dosh off of trickets and shit.
Get on it, the worst thing you can do is talk about it and never do it.
Print SHIT, people love SHIT. I've put so much time and effort and engineering into so many projects I tried to commercialize. My biggest earners by an order of magnitude are still just random GARBAGE knick-knacks from Thingiverse with the right license.

I've sold more Pokemon Go "Badges" and holiday-themed cookie cutters than anything else.

As an aside: Don't print cookie cutters or other objects that need to be clean. Print positive bucks, smooth them, and make silicone molds to cast cookie cutters in appropriate materials. It only sounds like a lot of extra work, it's not, it's fun and it's really easy. The end result is dishwasher safe, and doesn't have the microscopic bacteria-harboring crevasses that make 3D prints so bad for food contact.

>>2735317
What's wrong with cardboard spools? Just wondering. Inquiring minds.

>>2735322

What should i print with my glow in the dark filament?

>>2735320
There's been several posts made about them sending like 400+gb of data a week to bambulabs.cn. I've noticed it when using the printer and slicing. Please don't lie here, I understand not knowing about an issue but it's well documented.

>>2735323
Thank you anon. I appreciate you.
>>2735324
Dragon dildo

>>2735321
It's more the layer lines trapping the bacteria and not being able to be cleaned well. I printed some pla cookie cutters and made cookies with then and threw them away after. Nobody got sick.

>>2735319
>I haven't figured out how to just print a purge tower. I'm sure there's a way to do it.
pretty sure youll have to fuck with the filament change gcode in the "machine gcode" tab (or whatever its called in bambu studio) to remove the purging to just do prime towers. should also do a purge object instead to make something more useful than a rainbow block for an application where color doesnt matter.

>>2735324
A replacement nozzle :)
Jokes aside, I like glow-in-the-dark lithophanes.

>>2735327
> The end result is dishwasher safe, and doesn't have the microscopic bacteria-harboring crevasses that make 3D prints so bad for food contact.
Nothing wrong with some one-time-use shit so long as it isn't made of something truly horrible.

>>2735328
I'm just saying it for all the new a1 owners. Bambu sent me the machine for review and I need to send it back or pay for it. Odd they're not letting me keep it but I didn't give them the 100% approval they were seeking. Oh well. The pooping thing works if you can figure out a way to keep it out from under the bed. It's a pain in the ass and they should release another a1 sans the pooping mechanism and just print purge towers. It's a good idea in theory and it works but it's not in practice.

>>2735329
Yeah if you do it next year and just want zombie santa cookies just throw them away when you're done. It's just pla, cornstarch and milk fat. Not going to hurt you. It's the bacteria. Don't reuse them.

>>2735321
>with the right license
That's the first pain in the ass part. Second pain in the ass part is cleaning and then finally shipping. I printed a cubone skull in glow for shits and giggles last night. Would love to sell that as a keychain for a few bucks (for example).

>>2735330
I have an idea. Print some plates that cover the rails that attach to the bottom of the bed that keep the poop out that attach to the under carriage or something. It would add weight to the bed but my suggestion to bambu and everyone is to just print purge towers and find a way to disable the pooper to avoid headaches.

>>2735332
Modify it slightly and sell it. It's pokemon. They can't claim it's theirs anyway because niantic owns pokemon. I imagine no judge would side with them.

>>2735332
Get a pocket full of them. Install Pokemon Go. Go to a Pokemon Go event where 500 tweens and their parents show up to a park or plaza and spend hours mass-catching Pokemon. Wear several on your shirt/coat and sleeves. People will ask, you will sell. The Pokemon Go (is it Go Day? Some shit) events are usually themed around a specific Pokemon, which is revealed WAY ahead of time, so you can print relevant shit for the given event. I don't even live in a big city and I'm able to generate considerable dosh this way.

>>2735337
I do it for dungeons and dragons stuff at pax east. Can confirm, people pay good dosh for 3d prints of popular models. By the time anyone questions anything, bounce. Most people see 3d prints as a cute novelty.

>>2735320
the printer and network stack they baked into it are blackbox and therefore impossible to audit. I have a P1S and I love this thing but even I know >>2735325 is right

>>2735330
damn that's gay. I feel like bambu is doing the thing where they become the unstoppable market leader so they turn into dickheads, except they're doing it way too early and it will actually bite them in the ass.
as far as the filament turds yeah it works well especially on the x1/p1 with the chute but even then the occasional one will end up on the back shelf or even on the bed which is a crash waiting to happen if the part is shorter than 10-15mm or so.

>>2735339
>*the printer itself and the network stack they baked into the slicer
right after it posted I realized the first sentence was too ambiguous

>>2735330
>pooping thing
So the X1c (X1 also?) has a chute which you can print out a container for. Right now I'm just using a tray that came with some chink food or something to collect

>>2735339
I'm surprised it hasn't been rooted. The printers run Android. Maybe the hacker community and 3d printing community havent overlapped enough yet. I love my 2 p1s machines but I don't trust them.

>>2735338
>Most people see 3d prints as a cute novelty.
100% - Lean into this fact. I used to put all the 3D printed articulated dragons, dinosaurs, sharks, all that sort of shit on the edge of my desk, makes me the friendliest and most approachable person in the room at a glance, and attracts children. People walk in with their kids, kids walk up to me, parent walks up to me, my sale, my commission. It also meant I got 99% of the trannies and young women because they're comfortable walking up to the smiling fat-ass at his desk covered in toys. I gave away a lot of little toys to those kids and trannies.

>>2735345
>smile
You're asking the impossible of me anon.

>>2735341
It's more of where its at and see >>2735339 its not perfect. Its right next to the bed on the a1. I watched as it pooped, bounced off my wall, and ended up under the bed. I watched as it wiped it, hardened and on the way back, snapped the plastic and shot it under the bed. It's physics. You can't stop physics from physicsing. You can mitigate it. Purge towers are the answer. Bold idea. Really good idea. I'm sure even a great idea. But it sucks in practice.

>>2735344
>The printers run Android
This may be a misconception caused by rumors. They definitely run Linux, not necessarily Android, and there's plenty of reason to think they just run a fairly normal Linux distro built on top of Rockchip's kernel, which is exactly what they claim. Hopefully someone can put in the work to give us hard answers.
The P1P and P1S have an ESP32, there's nothing in there running Android that's for sure.

>>2735345
Yeah the trannies scare parents away in my experience. I'll watch as a mom grabs their kid and they hurry away. They want to "talk" and it's like
>bro you need to bounce, you're costing me sales
But i can't say that. They get bored enough and move on but not after like 20 lost sales. Enough come up but I noticed when "they" hang around my booth, I see way less income. Idk how to be nice and not get kicked out but tell them to find another booth to hang around. It's like they see 2 men and assume we're gay and want to talk about stuff not suitable for the event. No he's just my best friend. Next year I'm putting up a sign "not a social booth, 15 minute limit" like other booths do. Sadly this will mean I can't conversate with people I want to talk to but meh.

>>2735352
Oof, that sounds awful, I can see how that could be a problem. I didn't have to worry about things like that, I was in equipment sales, 3 sales in a whole day was a good fucking day, someone sitting at my desk for over an hour just increased the chances they of them saying "yes" to one of the additional services we offered.

>>2735352
Just want to say no hate to transgenders but yall need to realize when you go to these events, business booths aren't a social gathering. I might be talking to someone and they come up and talk over others and they walk away and bam I lost a sale.
>bro it's not a competition, nobody cares about your struggles, can I help you.
45 minutes of blah blah blah blah blah blah
>are you going to buy anything
You're rude!
>ok well please move along then.
Trans rights are human rights but you need to learn common decency. Dont own the conversation. You're not the center of the universe. Others do come before you showed up. Get in line like everyone else. I'll talk 3d printing but I don't care about sex at all. Especially not at pax east.

>>2735355
It's not every trans person. Just like a majority that I've interacted with. And it has gotten me some sales by being friendly but it's a lot more work just to earn 1 sale to maybe 5-10. I feel for your struggles and I'm an ally but keep the line moving please.

>>2735359
>It's not every one just a majority
lmao

Has anyone made these?

>>2735351
Given that bambu printers are just stolen open source code, they will certainly use a stripped down linux distro like ratOS to run klipper/mainsail etc.

>>2735374
I get why people think this, but there's no reason at this point to think that Bambu printers run anything like Klipper under the hood. From what we've seen, it's much more likely something Marlin or RepRap derived. Of course they claim it's 100% their own firmware, made from scratch, in-house, which I sure as shit don't believe.

I will never print anything again that uses teeny-tiny 4x2mm magnets as locking feature. these things are fucking cancer to handle

>>2735395
Tiny magnets always are.
Woops, didn't wait long enough, magnet #3 yoinked the other two out, flinging adhesive in your face, and now all 3 are glued into your carpet, which is distracting you from the 4th one you were just preparing which is now glued to one of your fingers.

>>2735404
>make double-triple sure I put it in with the correct orientation to match the other two
>it's a tight press fit in a recess so once it's in, it's in
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

>>2735404
>make double-triple sure the third one is put in with the same orientation as the other three
>press-fit in a recess so no going back
>wrong orientation
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

>>2735409

>>2735404
>>2735395
>>2735409
It's almost worth it to buy some hexane superglue activator. It can present its own problems but will cause the superglue to set in around 10 seconds instead of 5 minutes.

>>2735025
>No, bought parts from Amazon over time
Not to sound like the shitters who laughed at you over AliExpress. But Amazon sells junk these days unless you were buying a specific known brand that was sold on there. Its basically expensive AliExpress at this point in time
>>2735117
I had an Ender 3 Neo and recently upgraded to the Bambu P1S. You deffo get what you pay for

>>2735319
>My only gripe is that the machines are crippled without the internet.
How so? I use mine in LAN mode and its exactly the same as when it was on the botnet.I start jobs over LAN and I can see the camera

>>2735443
The camera works over LAN only mode?

>>2735446
Yes.

>>2735447
Interesting. Not that anon of course, but everyone always says the camera won't work in lan mode as it requires their cloud shit to work. I wonder if these people are referring to the phone app.

>>2735448
Maybe so, though I think enabling the camera in lan-only mode was a recent addition, I don't think it was doable up until only a few months ago.

>>2735448
Probably are, the phone app doesn't work in LAN only mode

So, i watched the Prusa tour by Youtuber and i feel almost bad by how underwhelming it is. Comparing to 2019:
>still squatting his old farmstead
>every space is even more densely populated
I am not even joking, at least three areas in the video would've been shut down here for insufficient escape routes.
>assembly is still amateur or rather chinese level
>assembly is still the same team size??
>finally got a big injection molding machine
>uses it for spool holders..
>actually got a medium sized smt line with x-ray
Yes, that's the only the big plus.
>AFS exists, no release date given
>general storage is some tents
Usually i am rather pro Team Prusa as i he still brought more to the printing community than Changs could ever dream of, but frankly in 2019 there was still an excuse of
>he just got big recently, there's just not enough cash flow in it
in the air. Now, however, it's just sad and makes one question if there wasn't a far more simpler origin to the whole XL / MK4 "supply issues". I wouldn't wanna work there and his whole shtick of still sticking with that overcrowded farmstead makes me question if we will see him for more than few years anymore before he will opt out for a leisure life somewhere sunny..

>>2735356
you dont need to be so polite. just say
>TOTAL TRANNY DEATH
you are safe here

im ready to move on from my ender 3. having to trouble shoot bullshit issues kinda burned me out on printing and i stopped for a good while. want to get back into it. do i just get a prusa or what?

I'm wondering if there's anyone who knows how things work who could help me out here. Could you use 3d printing in order to make a DIY-style stenomask? I'm looking at the patent and videos of the thing and I can't tell if there's more than just a plastic thing with a foam gasket. I'm thinking you could just buy a $10 headset, grab the pillow and design the 3d printed part around that.

>>2735494
That's an interesting project. I suspect you'd want to do something a little bit more sophisticated than just a box around the mouth, since I think sound is just gonna pass through the plastic mostly uninhibited unless you insulate it somehow.
But it's worth a try -- 3d printing is a good tool for this. Wouldn't cost much to see how it goes.

>>2735494
Perfect candidate for 3D printing honestly, they're overpriced as fuck and the Chineseum ones are trash. Neat idea.

>>2735344
>>2735351
p1 and p1s don't run linux at all.

>>2735489
>im ready to move on from my ender 3. having to trouble shoot bullshit issues kinda burned me out on printing
Oh look, another one.
>do i just get a prusa or what?
Bambu is the other big option. Depending on your will to tinker still you may also look into used vorons and such.

>>2735494
According to google images that looks more than doable.

>>2735489
prusa or bambu if you are 100% done with fiddlefucking with everything (aside from the minutia that you will never really get away from).
voron, ratrig, or there are a few good chinko clones like sovol if you still want to tinker but want it to actually amount to something in the end (other than frustration and wasted precious hours of your lifespan).

>>2735494
That looks 100% do-able via printer.

>>2735439
I got marlin going on it and it's printing. Well it no longer prints in mid air...

>>2735520
>facebook picture

>>2735516
The mk3 bear kit on aliexpress is getting really good reviews. It's $260 freedom dollars and runs prusa firmware.

>>2735521
Having the same issue. Voron is a pain in the ass I'm going to sell it for $100. I'll let someone else sus it out.

>>2735500
>>2735516
what version do i get? from what i remember, people werent very impressed with the mk4 when it released considering the price and how long it took since the mk3. too little to late, basically. but thats just what i remember.
ive also never printed with ABS and want to try that for some thermal critical applications. dont you need an enclosure for ABS printing? i dont see either the mk4 or mk3 coming with an enclosure. do i just buy one myself and fit it around the whole printer? the product page says it can print ABS though

I was bitching earlier about the cardboard spools that come with polymaker filament.
>found an STL for a ring you place around the spool
Fucking hell I love these goddamn printers.

I have never 3D printed anything in my life.
I have also placed an order for a 5 head Prusa XL

Am I retard?

>>2735532
You are. Stick with it and you're gonna have a lot of retarded fun. There are worse ways you could've spent that money.

>>2735532
You really are
Should have got a MK4 or a Bambu thing

>>2735532
Considering that they plan on discontinuing the xl, yes you are.

>>2735541
why do they plan on doing that?

What is China's obsession with slotted wheels? Every single goddamn Chinese printer uses them. Are they THAT much of a cost saver? I was going to get the a1 until I found out that it uses those fucking wheels. You can clearly see that they know how to use a linear rail but hidden under the bed and on the z axis, you guessed it ... fucking wheels. Jesus christ do they have this massive warehouse just choc full of these fuckers? They're the bain of my existence.

>>2735542
Because nobody is buying it. It's got nothing but issues. You can buy better for way cheaper.

>>2735545
Retard here.
What do you recommend then? The large printing area is really attractive.
MK4 the MMU3?
I don't want to go bambu because while what I design won't be of any national security faggotry, I don't like the idea of them going to china first, and lan mode sounds gay.

>>2735551
The MK4 is overpriced for what it is, but it's still an extremely good printer, made mostly from high quality parts. Buy it as a kit, don't waste the money on any assembled shit. Putting it together is 95% retard-proof with their guides, you will learn a lot about while you put it together. Your experience owning it will be better and easier for having built it.

>>2735551
Mk3s+. It's $600 for a kit. If you want to save money, mk3 bear kit from aliexpress is a prusa clone. Runs prusa firmware. The mk4 has a lot of bugs with the mmu3. The mk3s+ with mmu3 just works. You don't want to print at mk4 speeds if you care at all about quality. It'll just be a waste of money.

>>2735551
Also if you want to print big, cr10s max. You want more than one printer. You don't want a large format printer to print precise parts.

>>2735555
>You don't want a large format printer to print precise parts.
Elaborate your thoughts please. I'm not him, but I want to build a Honeycaster and the parts are just barely fitting on my x1c.

Migu. My 2nd attempt at painting a mini. Took a few hours. 1/2

Migu. Designed in Hero Forge and then 3D printed in resin. My 2nd attempt at painting a mini. Took a few hours. First pic for scale. 1/2

>>2735569
2/2. The pigtails are a 2-part epoxy clay. It doesn't look great but it was exceedingly hard to work with on such a small scale.

>>2735569
WHAT THE FUCK

>>2735572
It was impossibly small to detail the eyes, it took a 4-bristle brush just to do the eyebrows.
Like I said, 2nd attempt at a mini. I guess I should just think of her as practice.

>>2735574
You misunderstand. This Miku is cursed and it's not your doing.

>>2735569
what the fuck is that face

>>2735578
Hero Forge.

>>2735576
Think it's cursed enough to inadvertently become a meme? Maybe "If only you knew how bad things really are" or "It's an expression of pain"?

>>2735567
Bigger printers have more movement and give. They will produce less good quality. But when you have a 0.6-0.8mm nozzle and you're printing big helmets, it doesn't matter. You're using them in a different way. You don't want 0.2-0.4 on a large format printer because the print will take ages and fail for a laundry list of reasons. A smaller format printer will always print better looking parts than a larger one. There's a cutoff. There's a reason everyone has farms of mk3s+es bro. At the end of the day you can glue parts together. You're better off with many smaller printers than 1 big one. You wont be printing big all the time so it then gets in the way.

>>2735591
My only concern is that there is a real weakness for parts being comprised of multiple pieces glued together instead of one whole piece. There are definitely examples contrary to this (wood working) but for plastic pieces I have never found that pieces glued are as strong as a solid whole.

I have a sovol sv06 in a pretty cold basement. I was watching a video for custom upgrades like a bigger fan on the side of the extruder. how important are they?

I want to make some prints that are taking 11 hours and i’ve only ever used a small resin printers for 6 hour projects so 11-24 hour things spook me a bit.

>>2735593
Liquid super glue atomically bonda pla and petg. It chemically bonds them.

>>2735600
You'll be more limited by the cold than anything else. You'll want an enclosure.

>>2735602
I have jb welded shit together that was weaker than the original. That should be a cold weld stronger than atomically bonded.

Just got my first printer. Is there any kind of consensus on which CAD programs are the best or do I just pick one at random off the list in the OP?

>>2735602
>>2735605

>Liquid super glue atomically bonda pla and petg. It chemically bonds them.

>That should be a cold weld stronger than atomically bonded.

can you retards shut the fuck up if you don't know what you're talking about. nothing in either of these posts are correct

>>2735607
anime characters? blender
parts? fusion 360
both are free, but fusion 360 you need to jump through some hoops

>>2735609
kill yourself fbi.

>>2735609
You want to look for a super glue that is cyanoacrylate-based, which means it will bond well with PLA and cure quickly.
They're right anon. You're just stupid.

>>2735610
Brics shape is better.

>>2735374
They use a 32-bit OS

>>2735544
The assembly is idiot proof. Linear rails technically need alignment

>>2735623
So drill holes into plate steel and make sure the machine has everything aligned. I hate lazy chinks who cut corners so much. Why is this so hard? Or include them in the kit and include 3d printed alignment tools. Or just use linear rods. It's almost 2024. It's time to stop accepting trash.

>>2735623
Hell you only need to hold them on the edges. Use the rail as the extrusion. It would be cheaper.

My main problem is the bed. I'm tired of pretending heating the bed does anything.

I'm trying to make a toy spine. Is there a way to improve it? It kind of comes off when I pull the string.

>>2735663
okay no i got it i could use holes instead

What's with all the low efforts posts, did we get mentioned on some bigger discord server?

>>2735626
No if you'd ever installed linear rails you'd know they have to be within 1mm otherwise they jam. They're also very rigid so they'll bend any aluminium extrusions they're attached to. They also need to be oiled properly or they'll fail rapidly.
Guide wheels while not being very good are idiot proof which fits with the type of people available in the 3rd world like china.

>>2735603
Ok
It seems to get so cold the PLA has been splitting if i leave it in the extruder/connected to the roll. I have a space heater near, but not right on, the printer to try and control some of the heat.
Unfortunately due to living location and house setup it’s pretty cold in the room in the winter, but so far prints are fine

>>2734953
So for the price of a Voron you can:
- Buy an X1C
- Rip out the electronics and replace with smooth drivers, Klipper capable controller, etc, because Xin Jipeng cares about pirating the secret custom dragon dildoes you're printing or something IDK
- Buy a second X1C to actually use while you fuck about trying to get your frankenvoron to not shit the bed.
AND STILL HAVE MONEY LEFT OVER.

>>2735572
That is not Migu. It is Miguel.

>>2735703
Yup. Build an enclosure. I made mine out of scrap I had laying around. Luon and 2x4 scraps work fine. Wood is a natural insulator. I prefer it to plexi. I put a plexi door on it but the top bottom and sides are all wood. Your prints will fail no matter the filament you choose. I used to live in an RV and winter printing never worked. Didn't matter pla, petg, asa nothing.

>>2735742
Id rather just buy a prusa and call it a day. I can't be fucked.

>>2735700
I have. Just 3d print the ends that hold the rods like prusa does. Why are you thirdies so retarded? If you can't innovate, at least copy the best.

>>2735742
>What's a joke
An LDO Voron 2.4 300 is the same as an X1C.

>>2735652
Problem what? Heating is one solution to many problems, not the solution to all.

>>2735572
got a face like

what do I have to do to get this this close to trammed? It's a K1 Max the belt mechanism is different from the K1

>>2735796
https://www.printables.com/model/602758-bed-tram-leveling-knobs-for-the-creality-k1-k1-max
I love printers that are both designed and built poorly.

>>2734425
the name rang a bell for me so i've had a look at my spools.
I bought some yellow PETG from them and it's the only roll of filament i've had issues with.
in my case I think it's full of moisture.

>>2735804
if I were doing this again i'd just pony up for a botnetlabs and be done with it.

>>2735810
yeah maybe but I want to print bigger parts in asa and it's still way more expensive, I got this for $850 canuck bucks it prints well for small parts but it's having issues with bigger ones

>>2735009
>>2735047
Still trying to troubleshoot this if anyone has any other suggestions, last couple days were busy with other stuff but today I'm gonna try swapping the glass beds between the two to see if the issue follows the glass or not and then try flipping the z axis screw to see if there's an issue with one end of it, but if/when neither of those things fix it I'm gonna be in fairly dire need of any other possible causes.

>>2735615
ok but you do even know what cold-welding, atomically bonded or chemically bonded fucking means? or are you just throwing buzz words around to yourself sound cool and awesome? you don't get any of that shit with fucking super glue you cuck

>>2735615
Way to miss the point there, kiddo.
>do even know what cold-welding, atomically bonded or chemically bonded fucking means?

>>2735816
I sure wouldn't want to be the one to try to explain adhesives to these prepubescent cunts.

>>2735804
Yeah I was hoping for something that used some thing I might have on hand now, would need to buy the those inserts

>>2735602
>>2735615

Common super glue (cyanoacrylate) isn't a solvent. If you want to chemically bond PLA, you need ethyl acetate.

>>2735819
It provides the information you need to accomplish the task. Fact is, they don't have provisions for actual bed leveling, it's up to you the end user to finish the incomplete printer design. This is normal for Creality products, lean into it.

>>2735821
Don't say that shit out loud, can't risk the kids figuring out you can vapor-smooth PLA.

>>2735439
do you think I should get it? I live in a small room and was wondering if the carbon filter actually does anything?

>>2735531
What's wrong with the cardboard spool?

>>2735494
Wikipedia mention aircraft headsets as functioning similarly which they do (I wore them for decades). Bonus is that format is light and comfortable unless you're just after the plague doctor look.

Pic of this classic shows how easy a mouthpiece would be to do:

https://www.aerospecialties.com/aviation-ground-support-equipment-gse-products/aircraft-headsets-intercom-systems/aircraft-headsets/aircraft-ramp-maintenance-headsets/david-clark-h3312-headset/

>>2735796
I have a regular k1. I got a refund on it and they wont even provide a return address to send it back. Not even creality wants them back. I'm so over them as a company. I'm buying a prusa in a few days.

>>2735865
For those of us with an AMS the cardboard slowly gets rubbed off and leaves dust.

>>2735871
Thats not whats killing your ams though. There was a yt video showing that they used cheap plastic clips that break after like 800 hours of use. And it's sealed shut. I'll never buy a bambulabs printer. Another chink company that cuts corners, overhyped by YouTube celebs who tricked everyone into getting one.

>>2735873
Mine just works™ anon.

Anyone use a filament dryer? I have a bunch of ABS and PLA spools that have just been sitting out in open air and im wondering if I can revive them by drying them out. Im thinking about just buying a food dehydrator and I can toss some of the parts I thermoform in it to keep the finished parts consistent.

>>2735878
I bought that sunlu dryer for 50 dollars that allows you to print from it. I haven't used it yet but I'll be finding out soon enough if it's dog shit or not.

>>2735569
Think your paints, learn to drybrush
>>2735827
Carbon filter doesn't do much, especially when you need the door open when printing PLA

>>2735873
proofs or are you the bambu insane guy
>>2735865
Cardboard sucks the filament that touches the cardboard turns into raw spaghetti and snaps

I might just be retarded/impatient, but I'm pretty new to 3d printing, just bought an Ender 3 V3 KE. I'm pretty happy with it overall, and I've been getting pretty decent results with most prints out of the box, haven't had to tinker much with it at all.
One thing that I'm kinda confused about is print times. For example, I need an ice bucket for my freezer and I thought like "oh PLA is food safe I'll just print one" so I drew this up in solidworks and I'm kinda disappointed that it says it'll take 7 fucking hours to print on the default low quality settings. I really don't care much about quality in this case, but it seems like every setting I change just takes off a couple of minutes.
I get that it's a really big print, but all the sides are only 1mm thick. You'd think it wouldn't take so long at 300mm/s
Any thoughts?

>>2735888
Another example, the demo benchy gcode that came on the printer prints in like 17 minutes. When I slice it myself, it takes like 70 minutes. What could they have changed to make such a big difference? Side by side the quality is pretty similar between them.

>>2735880
I was thinking about buying that one but would need to make some trays to put my parts in. They also hold one or two rolls. I can throw like 4-5 rolls in a dehydrator for an extra $40 but cant print from it.

>>2735888
>oh PLA is food safe I'll just print one
PLA is food safe, not every color additive in it isn't.
Brass is food safe, lead additive in it isn't.
There's an additional chapter about bacteria playground due to the inherit structure produced by FDM, but I don't wanna be pedantic. A cheap default ender nozzle will have lead in it.
Now asking for slicer advice without mentioning which one.. Read up on what everything is doing. There's no single step solution.

>>2735897
>Lead additive

What filament has lead added to it?

>>2735875
For now. Good luck trying to repair it. Thares a 3d printable model. I suggest printing them now.

>>2735888
First of all the walls on that 'ice box' you intend to print are way too thin. It will have no strength and break within minutes of use. At least add some bars to make it more rigid and double the wall thickness.
Secondly, you've brought a shit printer. If you want speed your best bet is to get larger nozzles. 1mm nozzles are very cheap however the chinese shit you've bought has a hotend that cannot handle a 1mm nozzle at full speed so you'd want to up the temperature to 235 to compensate and probably go a lot slower than normal.
Finally, you've got a bedslinger printer so that box is going to be wobbling around all over the place while it prints especially at the higher layers.
tdlr: buy a ratrig 500mm3. thank me later

>>2735886
not him but theres like over 1000 videos on youtube about broken bambu amses. they use a cheap plastic piece instead of a metal spring, inside of a welded plastic part forcing you to have to buy the new one. I am the "bambu insane guy" by the way not him. if you buy a bambu printer and shill them here, I am going to laugh at you in a month when it breaks and you are up shits creek without a paddle. You can't fix it because its closed source locked down trash. I bet you own a mac and an iphone too you absolute faggot.

>>2734315
Blender's units are actually 1/1000 scale so 1m in Blender comes out to be 1mm in Cura.

>>2735913
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI49VIcISaw
this is what worked for me. also stop using cura, cura is shit anymore, switch to orca or prusa slicer

>>2735610
Onshape is another option that was spun up by ex-Dassault guys.

>>2735911
>just trust me bro
>I bet you own a mac and an iphone too you absolute faggot
I have Moto G4 Plus and a PC I built myself

>>2735911
So just print a version with a spring to sooth your specific brand of retardation? You own a 3D printer, you have zero excuse for not meeting "I don't like this part's design choices" with a replacement.
'Closed source' does not prevent you from measuring a part with a pair of fucking callipers.

>>2735927
the amount of cope in this post is insane. I dont accept crap like that in my life, there is no excuse for this cut corner. if it werent welded shut I would be a little more lenient but its just another line of bullshit from a bullshit company and the faggots who blindly sing their praises who live in constant cope. The mental gymnastics bambu owners go through would be enough to power a small city.

>>2735929
Calm down. Look I don't like bambulabs printers for a lot of reasons.
Slotted wheels hidden away
Spyware
Weak ams
Closed source firmware

You know what I did? I bought a prusa instead. Voting with my wallet was the way to go. I don't stress out about other people's choices. People say I suck bearded cock. You're as bad as they are. Calm down and buy a prusa. It'll be ok.

>>2735907
Referring to this thing?

>>2735936
>Please buy our printers
>We're basically slaves
>All the money goes to beard oil

>>2735929
>It's Open Source so you can mod and replace anything
>What, mod and replace a part, that's bullshit! Close Source! Whaaaa!


Why not just buy a Prusa? The MMU is well renowned for working perfectly well with no issues whatsoever, not even the slightest reputation for being a complete pile of non-functional garbage, just like the PrusaXL!

>>2735940
yes, it's really easy to fix, and you can hold it together with rubber bands or you can drill some holes and use long m4 nuts and bolts to hold it back together. you use a ball bearing and a spring and it fixes the issue later. you want one for each color.
>>2735944
this, the mmu3 is nice, works on my mk4 with some fiddling. homedude needs to calm the fuck down though and take his meds as do you. relax, its not a war.
>>2735943
let's not forget those sexy bear glasses either mmm ;) lets cuddle baby!

>>2735947
Gotcha. Thanks for the heads up.

every time i see brand wars between chinks, beardboi and more chinks i'm happier that i made my own voron.
because i can 100% blame its failures on my own lack of skill, and since i built it, i know what part needs fixing, and how to get to it.

its not plug and play, but tinkering is 90% of the fun with printers, if it just works then you're going to print some starwars busts and let it sit and collect dust.

>>2735951
I'm on a perpetual quest for more and more functional prints. I already have printed out several hooks for hanging shit in my garage and also a gravity broom holder. Made some keychain gifts for people too for christmas.

>>2735950
Yeah it's inside the sealed gearboxes. Watch a video on how to dick with them. They did it to sell more parts later. Kind of a dick move. Usually breaks outside of the return period where most people would find them breaking. It's easy enough to fix. I helped my buddy fix his ams and it's fine. Fiddly but fine.

>>2735951
I've never faced an issue with my prusas that wasnt easily fixed by not being a retard. I think the anger comes from poor people. Most poor people have no patience or wisdom to do much of anything.

>>2735951
> if it just works then you're going to print some starwars busts and let it sit and collect dust.
That's just incorrect. I wanted to address this separately. I make money by printing things and selling them. I don't like having a printer I have to babysit. If you like that, meh. You do you though. I've made enough money from 3d printing just as a sidegig that it bought me 4 more mk3s+es over time. I just ordered a second mk4 kit. The hobby funds itself.

>>2735966
I do want to add that this is just a hobby and if you think you can live from the profits, that's not going to happen. People expect certain quality out of the parts. It's to the point where all I buy is prusament because I don't trust even polymaker after having 4 bad rolls of it. Sure they were willing to work with me. Get it sorted. But that's not the point. I'm not going to ruin my expensive printers by gambling on filament. To each their own. If you do it as a soloist hobby and being able to fart around and having the downtime to do it is fun for you, hey be my guest. Thats awesome.

But from the early days of my first ender 3, ender 5 "pro", ender 6, and now the k1 all having something wrong with them, and having friends in the maker community who have bambu printers and yes even vorons, watching others struggle to do what my prusas simply just do without hassles, I just can't go back to fiddlefucking. I don't even watch 3d printing videos anymore because it's all just shilling the latest thing to come out of China. It's never about interesting cool innovations. It's:
>check out the new kinglab threed k1a1 chinkshit trash that hides the fact that it uses garbage parts. I suggest buying this $200 piece of ewaste over the other $350 piece of ewaste!
You know some new moron buys it thinking it'll be just like magic. They face issues like bed adhesion or the gantry not being trammed or loose vslot wheels that are now covered by aluminum with only a single linear rail. The easiest part to fix is where they put it too.

It's all just so tiring that I simply got a prusa mk3s one day used. It just worked. I bought a kit new. Put it together. Had a fun time. It just worked. Every single one I had save for one worked. What happened? They walked me through how to fix it over the phone and as a sorry, sent me a 2kg roll of filament gratis.

If you want to buy cheap garbage and fiddlefuck with it, be my guest. I'm saving up 5 grand for a real 3d printer.

>>2735951
>tinkering is 90% of the fun with printers
If you're a hobbyist, sure. If a 3D printer is a tool to get other stuff done then the amount of desired dicking around is 0%.

Imaging telling someone that having to assemble and then fuck about with their regular 2D paper printer just to get it to print without smearing the page or shooting ink around the room or setting the paper on fire was 'part of the fun': you'd be happy to inform them of where to insert their printer and at what angle.

>>2735885
so don't bother purchasing it.
keep in mind I sleep in the same room.

>>2734739
Why the hell are you downgrading your prusa? Did you do a pid tune? Print a temp tower. It'll tell you where you're having issues. If the print tower doesnt print, you have a clog. But it's not an ender, you don't have to "fix" anything for fucks sake.

Imagine trying to fix perfection incarnate. Whats your address, I'll come rescue that poor printer from your stupidity and give you $500 for it.

I'm just getting into 3d printing, only just got my first resin and fdm printers.
I'm trying to find as many 3d printing generals and threads as I can to help find things I want to print.
Other than here and the general in /tg/, can anyone suggest a good place I can ask questions or just pick people's brains about 3d printing in Geneal?

>>2736044
facebook communities around your specific printer and discord. If you bought a Prusa they have their own community and customer support walled garden. Good luck with your future skin allergies to resin.

>>2736044
>first resin printer
You get the speech.
'''Resin printing is fun and easy, and the results are very gratifying!
Also, it's nasty shit, and you NEED to use PPE because your sensitivity to it increases with repeated exposures. Retard faggots go dipping their hands in the shit saying "what's the big deal" and not feeling a thing from it, but eventually those same retards reach a point where they break out in hives if a drop touches their skin. Same thing for respiratory exposure, the smell might even be pleasant at first with no mask and no air filtration, but eventually you'll reach a point where you can't be anywhere near the shit without a respirator. It's toxic, it irritates the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract, causes headaches, is carcinogenic, and the more you're exposed to it the worse the effects get. Repeat exposures eventually lead to you being entirely allergic to the shit, to the point where handling a print that isn't sufficiently cured is enough to give you a rash. Resin is nasty business, use your PPE so you can actually enjoy it instead of growing to loathe it.'''
If you ever spill resin on your bare skin, you stop what you're doing and wash it off immediately. If you ever spill on your clothing, you strip on the spot and go wash yourself immediately. You are already allergic to the resin, and your sensitivity increases with every exposure.

>>2736054
I'm already extremely paranoid and overly particular about handling any sort of chemical. I haven't even bought resin for it yet and I don't intend to until I have everything i believe I'll need to stay safe.
My respirator just came in today. I have three huge pickle buckets my roommate got from his work. One I've converted into a UV curing station, one will be used to dispose of leftover supports and failures AFTER I've cured them as well as used gloves. The third is for the used alcohol.
I'm getting long sleeve scrubs and a few long sleeve lab coats. I can get them for really cheap so if one gets some resin on it, I can. toss it and get a new pair easily.
I'm putting together a workstation on our patio outside (I live on the top floor of an apartment complex) where I can keep the printer inside a grow box with a heater and an air pump while it's printing. I have a spot set inside so I can store it when not in use. I also have a tarp to keep sunlight off the patio while it's printing and I'm washing and curing.
Because of the fumes, this is the best way i can think to use the printer where I live while not taking the chance of fumes building up in the house.

>>2736059
Good on you, anon, that's the right level of paranoia to have with resin.

woo, the snapmaker original is printing now
the bed's thermostat was reading N/A on the display, but I reflowed the joints on the thermistor and the 6P6C jack and it works fine now. fyi the thermistor is just an smd 0805 or similar part on the corner of the bed, so i don't imagine the accuracy is brilliant, but who cares i guess.

gonna print a holder for another limit switch for the z axis, just like what i did for my ender 3 v2, so i can touch it off with my pcb drill for length correction

hope i won't need to mess about with mesh levelling to get pcb milling working well.

also i think the default laser on this thing is only 200mW, swapping it for my ~1W diode might be worthwhile.

>>2736062
What a horror show, good job anon.

Roundhouse kick a Bambu nigger in the head kill Bambu niggers throw a Bambu nigger off of a roof
TBD
We say total Bambu death in /3dpg/

>>2736078
BASED

>>2736078
Cringe

>>2735009
>>2735815
>flip z screw
>use the new printer's glass
>it's still exceptionally bad on the old printer
Fuck.

>>2736062
LOL, that's a blast form the past! That the SR-6SE manged to be an UPGRADE from the OG Snapmaker says a lot.
Thing was still useful as a compact laser & mill through.

>>2735913
unless you change it in the settings which you can do with little effort. It is literally 1 dropdown box and 1 textbox you need to change in the scene settings tab.
Please apologise to me when you're next available.

>>2736044
>to help find things I want to print
Wrong question.
Learn to use CAD and make 3d models of things you want to print.
Your best option for being a yuppie is going on stlfinder and stealing someones model.

>>2736099
What is highlighted in yellow is called 'elephants foot' and it happens because you've put the nozzle too close to the bed.
You should also use a powder coated PEI sheet instead of glass because glass sucks for bed adhesion.
The rest of the Z wobble looks normal for chinese crap printers.
Your filament extrusion multiplier may be too low also but I cannot tell from this picture.

>>2736078
exactly one yike

Hows the reputation for MINGDA stuff? Also thought on Bambulab p1p? Is it really that good of a printer

>>2736117
It's not elephant's foot, it's poor adhesion, you can see the whole print lifting off the bed in his photos. The edges are curling up into the layers above it as they're being laid down. Same as before.

>>2735897
https://lt728843.wixsite.com/maskrelief/post/the-final-say-in-food-safe-3d-printing

>Brass is food safe, lead additive in it isn't.
The amount of lead in a brass nozzle is about 1.5% for a standard 3 gram, 0.4mm nozzle.

1.5% of 3 grams is 0.045 grams of lead. Now, 21% (0.63 grams) of a 3 gram standard 0.4mm nozzle is removed for the filament to flow into. This also means that 21% of the 0.045 grams of lead were removed as well, leaving a total number of 0.035 grams of lead remaining in the TOTAL nozzle. This means even less is in contact with the filament as it passes through. The filament is only in contact with 21% of the TOTAL amount of lead, which means a total possible contact with 0.007 grams of lead.

Masses of new nozzles compared to used nozzles (1000 hours of use) show that either no mass was lost due to printing, or the amount lost due to friction was so small, that the scale did not pick it up, meaning, such an extremely small amount of lead had been friction rubbed onto the thousands of meters of filament over 1000 hours of use.

There is more lead in your tap water than a 3d printed part.

>an additional chapter about bacteria playground due to the inherit structure produced by FDM
I took my NIH approved 3D printed 2- part mask I have been wearing for 16 months, in which I have purposely not sanitized it for 3 months. I swabbed it, then prepared the dish, and incubated it for 7 days of growth.

I then separated the mask into its two counter parts, washed (no scrubbing with a brush) one with soapy water (120F). Before washing I made sure that the swab contained contamination from both parts of the mask, not just one.

You can see that there has been roughly a 90% reduction in bacteria, this is good. This keeps it below the ID (infectious dose) number. The ID number is specific to the bacteria being tested. IE, a certain amount of salmonella will not make you sick, but if you go past that number, chances are, you will get ill.

I was looking for AI tools that can turn images into 3D objects and found this gem.
https://3d.csm.ai/detail/SESSION_1695250250_7042973

>>2736199
Visual inspection is not nearly good enough for hospitals or food establishments. So, we must use other testing methods to determine how clean they are. Protein Residue tests directly measure organic/microbial contamination.

The same procedure was then repeated but using the protein residue swabs to test the 3D printed mask that I had inoculated with Salmonella typhimurium 2 hours previously. You can see the control swab and how it has turned purple, this indicates an abundance of proteins. I then washed samples of 3D printed parts with Salmonella in just warm water so that I could take a protein swab test for a control. The test turned purple since water was not able to wash all residues away.

Let us compare results after washing a second piece of the mask with basic soap and water as well as some cubes and first layer prints that have been inoculated with Salmonella typhimurium as well. No alcohol was used for the second set. We want to see how well basic soap and water can clean items since during times of pandemics, rubbing alcohol (IPA) or even bleach can be very difficult to come by.

The printed parts were tested at 2 hours and 24 hours after cleaning. The control is shown against the green solution. Green is clean. No proteins after 2 and 24 hours after cleaning with basic soap and water. This means nothing was left behind to allow pathogens to grow and multiply. If they were to grow, they would leave behind new contamination which the protein swabs would pick up.

I confirmed my findings with another tester, who did a wash in soapy water, rinsed the part, then sanitized it by soaking it for 5 minutes in bleach water at the hospital. The 5-minute time frame was to allow the bleach water to seep into the part. The surgical technician then did an ATP and protein swab test. They found the parts to be well within spec and useable for a medical setting.

>>2736203
I wanted to further test the 3D printed parts to really see if I could get the bacteria into very small spaces. I printed up a 2 wall print with 0.5 extrusion width for both walls. The layer height was 0.24mm and printed at a speed of 60mm/s and a temp of 215. This particular cube held water under pressure and did not leak. This was frustrating because i wanted it to leak. However, i continued to test.

I filled the cube up with pure chicken juice and blood. I did this because this is what most conditions in a house will be like. In a lab, we are using very dangerous bacteria, but in a controlled environment. I wanted to test this at home under average conditions, and even the worst conditions.


I spread some of the liquid around the entire print and allowed it to soak in the juices as well. I removed it and allowed to dry for 36 hours. This allowed plenty of time for bacteria and biofilms to form. I then cleaned the part with warm soapy water from a foam dispenser type. I used just my fingers to scrub, no brush. I then allowed the part to air dry and then tested using the protein residue testing swabs. The results came back clean and passed all tests.


I have concluded that 3D printed parts can be cleaned to operating room standards. Does this mean they are food safe? Yes, and a small no. Yes, because they can be cleaned and can hold dry foods with no issues. Possibly No, because with liquids, they can cause the color additives and binders used in the filament to POSSIBLY leach out. It is rare, but still possible. Also, if the 3D printed item is to hold liquid, it is best to coat in resin and epoxy

im not reading all of that, but chatGPT said that you are gay

>>2736011
You don't wanna be sat in the room with the printer running desu

>>2735950
What exactly is this?

Behold, my first 4 prints: Ender 3 sample cat, temperature tuner, glasses hook for monitor, Benchy

>google how to clean carborundum bed because I heard somewhere that you should never ever use IPA
>"The carborundum glass base is easily cleaned with acetone or isopropyl alcohol, without the use of cleaning utensils"
Nice try, google.

>>2736220
forgot pic

>>2736220
Just use hot soapy water
I also used IPA on mine a few times as I couldn't be bothered washing and drying it again and fuck all happened to it

>>2736217
A cover to help protect the feeding funnels.
https://www.printables.com/model/425018-bambu-lab-over-engineered-ams-feeding-funnel-cover

>>2736234
Is there anything made out of PLA I can use? I aint buying a ton of PETG for one thing

>>2736220

Is there a nicer way of cleaning nozzles than using a wire brush? I've got a small brush but it's still a bit large and awkward.

>>2736238
Bit of a waste to have an ams and print in nothing but pla, petg is babies second printing material.
It's easy to print with, cheap and is much better for certain things.

>>2736273
Seconding this. There's no reason not to get a wide variety of filaments other than PLA. I'm about to order some ABS, TPU, and ASA as well. Have some outdoor plans for the ASA.

>>2736273
>Bit of a waste to have an ams and print in nothing but pla
Guess all the printer fumes have made me imagine the multicolour prints. I have no use for PETG's properties. And whatever PETG I buy I can't use in multicolour prints with PLA
>>2736280
Gl with TPU in the AMS

>>2736280
TPU AHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
The only TPU worth buying is 70A or softer. 95A is a compromise TPU because it's too rigid.
I could barely get a highly optimised direct drive extruder to work reliably with 70A you will have no chance with that chinese crap carrot feeder knockoff

>>2735698
sorry, all by me

>>2736284
>TPU in the AMS
I believe you are explicitly instructed NOT to use TPU in the AMS.

>>2736291
yes thats the point

>>2736293
I guess my response to that initial post was a bit confusing since the conversation was about the AMS and I said there is no reason not to get a variety of different filaments.

>>2735888
the time seems about right. i printed some similar containers the other day. way smaller, but 2mm wall thickness, so about 4 or 5 layers wide i think. took me over 10 hours at standard settings.
and the time your slicer reports is never what your printer actually prints. youll have to give your slicer all kinds of information about your speed settings, or let the slicer dictate the speed of the printer.
in both of my prints, the slicer said about 10 hours but i had to manually increase the printer speed mid print to get it done in time.
thats just how it is.
you can try and increase your print speed at the cost of quality. but "at the cost of quality" very quickly turns into "at the cost of the print failing".
if you want to increase your printer speed to the max youll have to do a lot of tweaking and fiddling. changing out parts, doing a lot of test prints. and even then, if you ride to close to the edge of what your printer is capable of, you just risk your print failing, wasting time and filament.
ender printers arent very fast, they are cheap chink shit after all.
you better get used to prints taking this long, youll have a lot to learn by trial and error before you can print fast.

Functional infill fan grilles, a neat trick

prusa mk3 or mk4?

>>2736294
>there is no reason not to get a variety of different filaments
But I don't need the mechanical properties of ABS, ASA or PETG. I have no idea why its a waste of an AMS to not have multiple materials loaded when you can't really mix some of the plastics together as they don't stick

>>2736117
>>2736196
Is there, hypothetically, literally anything else that could cause this besides the bed quality and manual z offset? Again in the first post >>2735009 I got this to print correctly on the new printer on a bed I leveled and on this exact glass, if the problem was I'm not leveling the bed right and/or the glass it wouldn't've worked on the new printer either, by my understanding. I might end up trying a PEI sheet on the old printer if all else fails just to see if it somehow makes a difference, but it not currently being a PEI sheet can't be the direct cause of this problem.

There is no CNC thread so I'm asking in this doomed thread

Should I bother buying a cheap Genmitsu CNC router to get my feet wet with the artform? Or is it not worth dinking around with cheap CNCs? My initial project ideas are small, like circular picture frames from hardwood.

odd question but how loud are the PSUs on prusa printers? my ender 3 PSU fan is always going full bore no matter what and its quite loud, even though it probably doesnt even need it.
is the prusa PSU any better? does it have PVM control to adjust the fan speed based on temp? i doubt it does.

>>2736321
I don't think it even has a fan.

>>2736316
From my meager amount of research into the subject it is advised to stay away from cheap chinese cncs and cheap chinese lathes.

>>2736311
Same filament yes?
If it's the same filament, same bed, good z offset then all you have left is a hotend not getting to the right temperature or the bed not getting to the right temperature.
Try and stick a thermometer on the nozzle and bed of both printers and check they're the same temperature.

>>2736328
Same filament, different rolls of it but still the same brand+color, and this issue has persistently occurred on other brands and colors also, just to a less obvious/visible extent than on this model - although still always enough to affect tolerances, which is a fairly severe problem when I'm printing things that need to pressure-fit together. I tried temp-checking the old one when I first noticed this before the internet led me to mistakenly believe this was just a normal thing I needed to account for, but I haven't compared the two, so I'll give that a shot and see if there's a difference there, thanks.

>>2736304
I like it!

Cura have some fun filling patterns

>>2736367
Works better on translucent ofc

>>2736321
for an ender 3, there's plenty of psu silencers you can print that pretty much do the trick. either that or directly replacing the fan with a more silent one
on the prusa, my mini doesn't have a psu fan (it's a portable brick), can't talk about the mk3/mk4. looking at pictures seems like they don't, but can't say for sure

>>2736108
It is a loud boy, must be even coarser microstepping than my ender 3. But it seems to print fine and pretty fast too.

It’s also my first direct-drive printer, so I think I’ll try it with my TPU. Any recommended prints for TPU?

What’s the best way to get rid of the whispy stringies that stick to prints afterward?
I saw online heatguns do the trick, i’m guessing IPA and a toothbrush would also work?

>>2736449
You can just waft it over a gas hob for a couple of seconds

>>2736449
IPA doesn't dissolve PLA

I am wondering if there is a way to make a cartesian cube printer out of a bed slinger like an old mk3s+ or even the new mk4 or bambu a1. Has anyone done this?

>>2736454
Dang
Should i just stick to using heat to melt it back or are there effective brush methods to break them off?
Don’t desire to pick them off little by little

>>2736261
#0000 steel wool or brass sponge meant for soldering tip cleaning

>>2736321
meanwell PSU or original housefire one? mine (meanwell) is silent when the motors are off and is slightly loud when printing but still quieter than the hotend and part fan so I barely notice it

>>2735600
Me again with another dumb sovol question
I don’t know much about nozzles, which nozzles do/don’t work with the sv06?
I don’t think i need the expensive super durable steel nozzles since i’m just printing with PLA. i’ve read 0.6mm can print faster than 0.4mm so i’m interested in that.
Do these nozzles which work with the Ender 3 work with sv06? (I don’t know what “mk8” means but sv06 comes with mk8 nozzles so they seemed similar to me)

>>2736459
I'm very confused by why you would do this if you're not improving the kinematics (still flinging the bed on Y axis) I have seen conversions to corexy but generally it is not worth the money and not every part can be used from a bed flinger... heatbed, steppers, electronics, hotend can be used... rods, extrusions cannot.

>>2736499
I want to convert an old mk3 to be like an ender 5. Not corexy, cartesion x and y movement while the bed moves down on z.

So I used to work for Prusa. I don't care if you believe me or not. I'm going to leak a few things here.

Prusa is developing a "prusa xl mini". It will be a really cutdown xl. It'll be 260x260x260. Only one toolhead. It'll be compatible with the upcoming mmu3s/mmu4 whatever they end up naming it. It should come with it. The asking price will be around $1200. It will use the xl/mk4 extruder. It will have input shaping. It'll be fully enclosed.

They are also using the xl mini in the prusa afs. It will use 9 and 21 printer configurations. The afs version won't have enclosures but the afs itself will use its own robotic enclosure. After each print completes it automatically picks up a bed and removes the print and dumps the print into a completed zone. It will then put the bed back and automatically print the next print in queue. It will use ai to detect any issues.

The mk4 is the last i3 bed slinger they will offer. They are going to replace the entire print farm with a giant afs.

Ama. Fuck Josef and I hope this information ruins his big reveal he has coming up.

>>2736514
>XL mini
>XL
>mini