/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2585417
You didn't even try. Pathetic.

>>2585426
Noice transparency.

Post PNG and i'll use it next time

>>2585417
I have an old Tronxy P802M that's reaching 6 years old, that son of a gun, hoping to get it restored.
It's been barely operating (maybe ~5 times in the last 3 years), and for the last year it's been completely unused inside of a garage.
Got dusty and dirty as shit.

It was shit quality when I bought it, and it's even worse now, but I'm gonna fix it, Heavens be my witness.
Even in the first two years of ownership it:
>fucked up bed, needed to change surface by buying aftermarket plate
>one of the connectors overheated, melted, and needed to re-solder with an aftermarket one
>dozens of clogged nozzles
>belt tensioners fucked, replaced with zip ties
>shitty zip ties holding everything together, had to replace those
>power connector wires low quality, snap off, had to replace
Still using all original servos, original extruder, and original everything (other than replaced components.)

Yesterday I cleaned it, realized ANOTHER connector broke, and going to solder a new one on tonight.
Had to disassemble entire extruder to remove blockage.
Re-stripped power wires because old ones became nubs.
Hoping to at least get a print going today.

Also, need to find some sort of fume / waste plastic collection, 'cuz MUH HEALTH and MUH ENVIRONMENT, and I don't want to produce more garbage / waste than it's worth.
So, gotta build a fume enclosure of some kind (not sure if wanna vent microplastics gas outside, or going to use some sort of carbon pad to soak up the waste), and want to recycle the waste plastics.

>>2585428
Oh, yeah.
>piece of acrylic holding the extruder servo on snapped yesterday
>tried to drill out two aligned holes and then insert toothpicks as supports
>didn't work
>ended up just CA gluing the thing in place
>holds alright

I'm glad because I finally have some cool shit to 3D print, and I'm really glad that I didn't throw the damned thing away.

>>2585427
Careful what you wish for.
https://pastebin.pl/view/b2949b7d

>>2585428
>>2585430
Probably be better off putting that cash into a $150 printer, but taking the hard way around can sure be fun.
Good luck you crazy crackhead.

>>2585428
Honestly anon it's probably not even worth the parts it's made of

>>2585428
>>2585442
I think those linear rods could be a nice transplant for a more solid extruded frame.

>>2585442
There are good wires and stuff in there, a display, a heated bed, some fans, some stepper motors.
Plenty of good parts left when you throw out all the garbage.

>>2585443
https://github.com/sdp8483/Tronxy_P802M_SKR_V1-3/tree/master/AM8%20Frame%20Upgrade
>How to improve a P802M
>Replace most of it

>>2585437
Bless ya matey, I love fixing stuff up, so I'm honestly gonna keep that sucker.
>scavenged a connector from a little electronics kit I bought years ago, $0 effectively
>re-using old nozzle, going to just heat it enough to vaporize all the old plastic inside, then temper it, $0 there too
>reinforcing acrylic with toothpicks glued above and below crack, then welding plastic together with a soldering ironm $0.02 in toothpicks and electricity

I'm gonna make an enclosure out of two plastic bins I've got laying around, and then use an old computer fan and then use the 3D printer, when fixed, to make a filter adapter from a single respirator cartridge (saw this idea online.)
Total cost will be about $30.

>>2585442
You may be right anon, you may be right.
But I really do wanna reuse it - I hate throwing stuff that's got a fighting chance away, especially tools.
Going to give it a shot first for sure.
I like thinking about those guys in Pakistan (from those truck repair videos) who rewind starter motors with shitty wire they melted down from old scrap copper pipes.
Puts it into perspective, you know?

>>2585443
Will definitely keep in mind, I'm not skilled enough to build a printer from scratch, effectively (too dumb to make adapters and calibrate everything), but if I figure it out, maybe the last print this machine will ever do will be a new body for itself.
Cheers.

>>2585447
>https://github.com/sdp8483/Tronxy_P802M_SKR_V1-3/tree/master/AM8%20Frame%20Upgrade
That's honestly awesome, I'm definitely considering doing it.

I think it's got another 2-3 years in this incarnation, but I'm gonna download all the STL files + guide so I can rebuild it for another 10 years of service.
Hell, I plan to attain immortality through numerous /x/, /fit/, and /diy/ methods, so maybe this printer will last 150 more years at least.

>>2585451
I like your attitude anon and restoring tools is something we both enjoy but I almost gave up 3d printing when I started with those cheap printers, it's insulting in hindsight how much work it took to get something out of those things even when they were new.

>>2585264
>why the fuck does this exist
because some pigments are just fluorescent?
>>2585294
monumental imbecile. Not all wavelengths are the same. You'd need something shorter than UV-A to seriously degrade PLA.
They both have their applications depending on what you plan on doing.

>>2585396
Zoom out a bit, I want to see the rest of that filthy rat's nest you're making scrap inside.

>>2585457
Thanks anon :)
I like to imagine that it's the post-apocalyptic wasteland, and that I've got to make use of every tiny little thing.
Especially with shitty stuff that isn't really worth pouring more money into, but would be nice to have working, it really helps my attitude to approach it from a "MY ONLY OPTION IS TO GET THIS THING RUNNING, OR WE ALL DIE."

It's made me a lot more creative, and I actually manage to fix things nowadays.
It's kind of how in Cuba they keep cars running using fridge parts and homemade brake fluid.
I was pretty fukken lost when the extruder wouldn't un-clog, especially after trying everything, would've given up on it in the past.
But no,
>pull that cunt apart
>take a blowtorch to heat it beyond what the printer's capable of providing
>shove more filament through while heating
>with a slight pop, whatever blockage there was is cleared
>cool it slow so as not to fuck up the hardness of the piece (probably fucked it anyways)

I know it's autistic as shit, but it werks for me.

>>2585457
P.S. Though, having a shitty machine did put me off of printing for a few years.
Although, I've grown kind of fond of it now, and I honestly find it more fun than something that would work properly, kek.

What definitely put me off of printing for a while was not having anything to print, courtesy of being a 'lil wee baby without any responsibilities, so nothing to fix / build / fuck around with.
Got into hobby planes recently, RC stuff, so definitely going to be doing a lot of printing with those.

There's a million cryboxes very similar to these, but I can't for the life of me find the source manufacturer who makes them for all these different companies.
Would it be possible to 3D print some kind of case that can survive being put in -80 C or + 30 C? I'm beginning to lose hope that I'll find whoever made these originally.

>>2585512
Oh, and before some smartass says something, no it's not Sarstedt. They're one of a million companies that sells this exact same box but with their logo on it

>>2585512
>>2585513
Looks like ʇpǝʇsɹɐS

>>2585505
Part 1/2 repairing connectors on the shitbox.

My new laptop crashed twice using Inventor. Will upgrading the ram help prevent this? It's only 8gb right now

>>2585525
Part 2/2.

Dirty old sumbitch.

>>2585528
Cleaned.

>>2585526
NVM. The 8gb ram is soldered in. Why would they do this

Cleanest shit I've had in a long time

>>2585525
>>2585527
>not using phoenix connectors
>using normal screw terminals
you better be putting ferrules on those wires.

>>2585533
Are you a bad enough dude to break out the hot air gun?

>>2585548
A lotta words I don't know brother, I go to the 'ole Chinese mall, stop at the electronics, grab muh calipers and get somethin' that fits about right in width, then I just strip 'em wires, and give 'em the OLD TWISTAROO and stick 'em in there and boom, BAM, no problem, stays in there.

Now I don't know what Phoenix has gotta do with 3D printers, but I tell you, it's beautiful this time of the year, very mellow weather, yup.

And if you're talkin' about "FERRULES" like those kids on the internet that my son talks about, they dress up like animals, well, I just don't see why the hell I'd want one of 'em deviants near mah HARDWARE.

>>2585550
well then you'd have to mess with the bios and sbv roms

>>2585555
tee hee

>>2581933
Thanks anon, that helps out a lot. I haven't had a chance to mess with it much but I should have time this weekend. Epoxy sounds promising. I can probably get some ink that I could match the color with and use that to dye the epoxy. I did that to the surface of a different really old lock that I fucked up before.

>>2581948
Yeah I'm not really sure. It's hard like plastic but I don't know how to tell the difference so I need to research that.

>>2581957
The handle goes to presumably the driver's side door on a Maxwell. The office gal neglected to get the exact model.
When I first started locksmithing, I had a customer bring in Model T ignition lock with the armored cable still attached. At some point, I broke a piece of the cylinder off that actually held the lock in the switch. I thought I could weld it so I got some MuggyWeld for pot metal and my torch out. Maybe 30 seconds later I had a puddle of molten metal on my bench! I was pretty scared but it was actually easy to find a replacement for the part I melted and the customer never found out. I got it from some Model T collector's group so I should check if there is one for old Maxwells.

>>2581962
That makes sense to paint the whole thing. I'm kind of worried about texturing the repair since the broke spot is right on top of the handle. I was thinking I could make a mold of the handle and then make a casting or something to get the texture and use that piece to texture the repair.

>>2581968
Might work!

>>2584416
Yeah no shit. I've done some of the stupid shit locksmithing and one thing that I always forget is that a hammer is almost always the wrong tool for the job. I had just got off the phone with the customer too. Thankfully he hasn't called about it yet.

>>2584465
I guess I could get it wet and smell it, that's supposed to be a test for Bakelite if I remember correctly.

CONNECTORS
>CLIPPED
BED
>LEVELED
NOZZLE
>ZOZZLED
SNEED
>FED

>>2585569
FUCK FORGOT PIC
TWO YEARS IN THE PLANNING TO GET THIS CUNT BACK ONLINE

>>2585572
CONTROL, WE HAVE CONTACT.

>>2585581
it looks like ass, henry

>>2585588
That's just the rim, lad!
Checked, also.
But believe me, it's only the skirt - it's about 18% done now, and it looks a lot better.

Honestly, after 3 years of sitting in a garage and being roughly handled, I'm shocked it even prints.
Provided, needed some work, but still.
OHH YEAHH BROTHER

I'm gonna 3D print a mechanical watch movement on it next, I built a tourbillon a few years ago.
Maybe a fidget spinner, and then finally gonna be able to make replacement parts for my RC stuff, homesteadin' equipment (some knobs on tractor broke, gonna print 'em), and other miscellaneous bits and bobs.

>>2585581
40% contact, by the look of it!

>>2585605
YOU CALL THAT 40% BOY?
THAT'S AT LEAST 50%

Today is the day I fix the crooked gantry on my printer after installing the dual Z-axis kit 9 months ago. Or maybe not, its not like it's going anywhere...

What safety precautions should i be aware of when it comes to resin printing?
How toxic is the resin? What health risks can general use (printing, cleaning, sanding in rare cases) cause? What mask is best to wear when printing?

Love printing, don’t want to die of cancer or lung disease

>>2585645
What risks to skin are there too?
Heard allergies to resin is a possibility but that seems like the least harmful possibility.

I bought a Kobra Neo for work. I feel like it's too entry level but I'm gonna try to use it anyway even though it seems harder to use because it feels very locked down. Just thought I'd tell you guys that.

>>2585613
fire extinguishers prepped.

>>2585647
Repeated exposure to uncured print resin can permanently sensitize your immune system to the point where merely being in the same room as it can allergic reactions.
Getting a bit on your hands won’t immediately harm your skin, but it’s not good for your long term health. Get yourself some nitrile gloves and isopropyl alcohol, that shit gets everywhere.

>>2585647
>seems like the least harmful possibility.
it's really not, and nitrile gloves and a mask are the least you can do to avoid a lifetime of shit. unlike your waifu the resin thing is real and will fuck you.

>>2585668
nah, it's all standard hardware and the learning curve for printing will be the same. you're learning to print not compile right?

>>2585613
>3h 45m print
>it's 8 layers
>printer shits the bed after each layer
god damn it's been a rough night.

>>2585639
why is it that when I'm out of filament for the first time I really want to print. after my filament comes in I'm going to go back to letting shit collect dust.

>>2585691
Not learning since I've been at it with my own and others for a few years, but I needed to buy a new one for work and went for a cheaper option since it's all my boss would sign off on.

>>2585694
print a filament shredder
then automate ordering more filament when you run out
automate your despair

>>2585695
Given that it's a well-documented printer with mostly open-source and off-the-shelf components, derived from another open-source printer, running a free and open-source firmware on a completely unlocked Trigorilla board derived from earlier open-source hardware.

Genuinely, not trying to shit on you here, what "feels very locked down" about it?
I can't think of a single thing on it that is "locked down" in any way.

POVERTY TRONXY CUNT HERE
FIRST PRINT DONE!

I want to build an enclosure now, because fuck microplastics and fuck plastic fumes.
I wish I could 3D print in fucking wood or metal, but metal would cause worse fumes, and cost 200,000 bucks. Wood is a fantasy.

Now, I'm gonna take a cardboard box, since cardboard flames up at 200C, and as someone else said online, it ain't gonna get to 200C unless the printer itself catches fire, and at that point, shit's fucked, and most enclosures are flammable anyways
One can also make thermal cardboard by combining cardboard with a solution of borax, so I might flameproof it.

Might also mist my cardboard enclosure with water.
Lining with tinfoil may be an option.
I'm gonna 3D print a fume extractor or vent with a PC fan and some air purifier sheets, maybe a respirator cartridge, or a dust mask on top.

Next print will be some bed leveling knobs, I fucking hate wing nuts.

>>2585799
>cardboard
bruh, don't you have some furniture board scraps lying around?

>>2585799
There's a reason people recommend throwing the spool that came with your printer. It's not worth it.

>>2585803
Alas, those went to making my workbench.

>>2585809
Oh, no brother, this is like the 8th spool I've owned.
It just sat in a moldy. dank garage for 2 years, unsealed.
My nozzle temps are fucked, belts untensioned, poor quality adhesion, and un-greased / un-oiled screws/line bearings (I even removed the factory stuff.)

Oiling everything, building a proper enclosure, calibrating steppers, and re-tightening everything is today's plan.
After that I'm printing a fidget spinner.

Tomorrow, we finish the fume enclosure.
And I'll be figuring out FreeCAD to make a prop spinner for my fucking plane.

>>2585799
It's horrid, good job anon.
Be sure to locate as much of the electronics as possible outside of the enclosure. The temps inside aren't a problem for most of the kinematics, but the drivers themselves on the mainboard can easily overheat in an enclosure, so can the little mosfets driving the hotend and bed.

The acrylic can be a problem too. It's perfectly fine at enclosure temps, but your stepper motors can get too hot for acrylic mounts when printing in an enclosure, mounts deform and fuck things. It's not a guaranteed problem, but it can happen, and it's really easy to combat.
Don't run more driver current than you need to, you can isolate the motors from their mounts with cheap vibration dampers, you can add heatsinks to the steppers, worst case scenario it only runs you a few dollars for this to be a non-issue.

>>2585813
Cheers to that, anon, bless your heart.
I didn't know about the electronics - that might be slightly problematic, since the cables on the control board are PRETTY fucking short, those cunts didn't want to splurge on an extra .5 inches of copper.

Thank you very much for the advice though, anon.
I'm going to probably make vibration dampeners from cardboard, like we used to make engine gaskets from cardboard.
I like cardboard.

I'm also hoping since it's not really an "enclosure" but more of a fume hood with constant negative air pressure (being evacuated outside), the temps will be pretty cool?
In fact, with high enough airflow, might be same as ambient temps in house?
Definitely noted though, cheers, anon.

>>2585812
>Moisturized, building a proper enclosure, calibrating steppers, happy, focused, flourishing and re-tightening everything is today's plan.

>>2585819
Bless you fren.
Today's the first day of rest I've gotten in a few weeks, been working continuously.
Spring coming up, lots of planting to do, tapping maple syrup 'tis the season, and fuck-ton of work to do, been getting my life back on track.
Changing wagie jobs too, lots of preppin' to do, so it's been good to be able to sit down and have a bit of cheeky fun.

I just pulled the bearings apart, completely gummed up from years of neglect.
Gonna throw 'em into some vodka and let them cook for a little while.
Then re-lube.

Gunk won't fucking budge, I put the bearing on a brush handle, and am spinning it while spraying with DUBYA DEE 40.
Can't find my usual can, so I got the emergency reserve can I hid under my stairs.
Also found some fucking litter, must've blown under there from recycling bin.

Building my coreXY/voron, these are my kinematic bed mounts prototype. Just one part six times. Since I'm making my own frame and build surface, I can redesign whenever I want, not having to worry about backwards compatibility. I may remake these out of aluminum eventually.

>>2585678
>>2585690
I wear the gloves and try to never touch wet resin, but i didn’t know it was that bad
Ganna be more careful

Any IRC channel for *ejem* 3d models?? Can't even afford bread atm. My last stand...

From beginner to achieving a crude3d rendering of pepe, how long do you think it would take me? 3 days? Thanks for your help guys.

>>2585826
>>2585831

See if you can pop the cover off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXmZhfvH9y0

>>2586026
Aye, I'm thinking of doing that, didn't want to screw around too much yet (diminishing returns, want to get the full printer at least semi-decent before I get too autistic with the tiny details), but it's definitely something to do later.

>>2585512
what is it? just a cryogenic sample container? what's it made of normally? polycarbonate?

>>2585945
I'm learning CAD right now for machine design purposes but my guess is it wouldn't take you very long at all.

>>2585799
fully enclosed my ambient doesn't get above 35C so I doubt you're going to combust cardboard.

>>2585945
blender > blobs > sculpting tools > pepe

how long depends on you. zbrush is better but costs. if you have a printer and filament print some dumb (free) shit off cults and get a booth at a flea market. or print yourself some slices of bread, just go easy on the infill it's hard enough to eat already.

>>2585832
Which laser cutter are you using? I really want to get one but there are so many damn choices and most of them seem gimmicky like combining beams, even if it technically works.

>>2585945
What kind of models?
What are you driving at?

>On aliexpress sourcing out hardware and other shit
>see kingroon kp3s pro on sale
>20% off + 15 dollars off with anniversary sale
>price goes from 195 to 157 thats with tax.
>hit buy

Damn it, I told myself my last printer would be a crossgantry printer..

Well if anyone was thinking of getting kp3s pro, and live in the US, you have until the end of this weeked to use the 15 dollars off and 20% off.
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804603708484.html

honestly I think it takes the 15 USD off then additional 20 USD off down to 142 then taxes are applied which may vary for you.

>>2586248
Oops meant 20 dollars off in my greentext adventure.

>>2585264
>Glows in your darkness.
>Doesn't elaborate.
>Leaves.

>>2586248
I have a KP3S Pro S1, very happy with it. Such a small footprint, yet the print volume is almost that of the Ender3.

I'm not a sciencetician, but how would a basic box enclosure work during summer? If there's no exhaust won't it just get hotter and hotter inside until the PSU shits itself? And won't the heat impact prints as well? But if the enclosure has a fan I'm worried the fan will cause a draft that also fucks up prints.

>>2586287
Yes.
But you only need to maintain around 40C for ABS. Well in the operating range of the PSU.
You can always move it out of the enclosure though.

>>2586287
just make it so you can crack the lid. your enclosure temp depends on a lot of stuff but you can always change it just by venting a bit at the top. a fan would defeat the whole purpose, not from drafts but even a small computer fan is going to evacuate the whole chamber of heat and will just force your enclosure to room temp. so just build it and see, cut vent holes if it's not right.

>>2586191
>Which laser cutter are you using?
Thunder Laser; it's at a co-op.
I want my own, but I just got my open-source router cutting (pic rel), so it's not really a priority. For this part I would buy some smaller endmills and add dog legs or whatever the fuck they're called.
Laser cutter + bitch plywood is a really powerful combo though, those cuts look even better from the other side but I put them facing the pins.
If you buy a CO2 laser which is cheap, make sure to protect yourself from the gamma rays or whatever the fuck. Contact lenses, safety goggles, preferably an enclosure.

>>2586321
>bitch plywood
r.i.p. in piece, u know what I meant
sage

>>2585512
Are you desperately trying to find the B2B injection-moulding supplier that the big lab-supply brands buy their cryoboxes from?
To save on the price difference?
Does your research department not have the funds for them?

about to pull the plug on one of these, main requirement is multi material+ABS+auto levelling, and was recommended this

is it worth?

>>2586354
i have the p1p and it's been a great machine for me. i've heard that the customer service is shit currently but as long as you don't fuck it up or get a dud, it really does just werk

>>2586354
Woah, do not EVER buy from 3DPG, horrible company with MASSIVE markup on Chinese drop-shipped garbage.
The X1C + AMS is $2220 AUD, that extra $380 goes to KAD3D for absolutely nothing, don't give 'em your money for nothing.
Buy it from Bambu Labs.

>>2586354
My X1C was able to print ASA out the box with minimal input from me.
The PEI sheet is definitely a must, the default “cool plate” is hot garbage.
The ease of use can’t be understated enough. It’s only really outclassed by Stratasys machines and the like in that regard.

any way to acquire STLs from premium mini sellers via piracy?

Just a couple minutes after this screenshot the mcu shutdown, I had a max_temp of 80 in my config for the chamber temp sensor haha. The insulation material I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HQM2TQ
My steppers are still inside the Ultimaker, any harm in letting them overheat? I've got an extinguisher nearby, can't imagine it getting worse than skipped steps.

>>2586491
Very bad.
Majority of Nema 17 steppers have a max ambient of 50C, which gives 'em an internal temp up to around 100C-120C.
Running near that or right at that point decreases their lifespan a bit, but shouldn't affect their operation.
Exceeding that though, the lube inside the motor isn't meant to handle higher temps, it runs too thin and fails to properly lubricate, and can more easily make it past the equally hot seals that normally keep it contained.
Right at or near 50C ambient, really not a problem at all.
Anything over, and you'll quickly destroy the steppers, tens of hours instead of the thousands you'd get otherwise.

>>2586491
That's a really nice interface. What plugin is that from?

>>2586510
That is Fluidd, pretty sure it's now the default Klipper UI.

>>2586499
Thanks I'll do more research and see if it'll be worthwhile to butcher the printer a bit more and externally mount the steppers, that or recycle some water cooling components.
>>2586510
Klipper Mainsail frontend

>>2586267
Yeah I purchased it so quickly I realized its v wheel bed, so I will buy linear rails, and swap them, but it might need some modification to the bed bracket.

>>2586524
Do they offer an upgrade kit? Shouldn't be that pricey, maybe $40 or so.
Even without, i think you will enjoy great precision. I'll sell my Prusa Mini now and just get a second Pro S1 once they are available for a fair price.

I paid 205€, used the code CG, which is from the German site Chinagadgets and still seems to work.

>>2586513
>>2586510
It's not Fluidd, it's mainsail.
Also I don't really recommend Fluidd. It was my Klipper UI and it was so buggy I couldn't take it anymore, so I switched to Mainsail. Holy shit is it better, everything just werks and it doesn't have the million forced shutdown/restart bugs that Fluidd has.
Also you don't need to balena etcher Mainsail, it's distributed on the oficial Raspberry Pi installer these days. Fluidd has really fallen behind, one would think the project is abandoned at this point.

>>2586530
They do
>https://kingroon.com/products/y-axis-linear-guide-upgrade-for-kingroon-kp3s-pro

so if I want to I can, or just be a cheap bastard and stick to the v wheels.

>>2586536
The wheels will work for now well i suspect, but they will degrade with time, eventually the upgrade looks like a must have.

Well, it warped and stick. I decided to continue along with the print to test if measurements are mostly right. Trying to think what I did wrong

I printed something the same thing before and it didn't have such problems. But it was a different filament and larger layer height. Maybe those had an affect

My house is pretty cold, so maybe 60C plate temp is too low? Does it matter? Maybe it was hotter before, I can't remember

For next print should I
>check leveling again
>add a brim
>increase bed temp (it is 60C, is 65C fine? 70?)
>possibly larger layer height, I don't really need thin layers (printed with 0.1mm. I think it was 0.2). Does this really have an affect thou?
>all of the above

It is weird even dpad hole has the issue. So I will probably need brim for inside holes as well

Also I hate how visible those lines at surface are. I am using glass surface and that was bottom. Ironing is better but in that case I need to flip it and waste time and filament for supports

>>2586549
what filament were you printing? ABS? PLA? PETG?

>>2586550
PLA. Printed via 200C and plate was 60

>>2586549
other than the warp (that almost looks intentional) and ugly visible lines, it is perfect though!

I wonder if I can paint over it to make lines less obvious

>>2586551

You mentioned your house being cold, this could be the reason, but you mentioned having a glass bed, try using glue or hair spray, that still will stick for sure.

>>2586549
Try bumping up the temps. I like to use 210c for nozzle and 70c for the bed when printing PLA. It's also a good idea to let it cool down completely before removing it from the print bed.

If you're printing on glass, then make sure its super clean before beginning; I used to have problems with getting the first layer to remain completely adhered during printing, but a scrub with acetone helped to remove oils/contaminants from the glass bed and now I give it a quick wash with water and dish soap followed by a wipedown with an alcohol wipe before beginning a day of printing.

Now when I print with PLA, I have to destroy the print entirely and risk breaking the glass in order to remove it unless I let it cool completely. The adherence is very powerful.

>>2586549
also don't pull it off until fully cool. our teacher needed some protractors so I designed and printed these. washing the glue residue off the back caused them to warp just from the hot water and I had to repeatedly reheat and cool on marble counter to get them all flat, finding new cool places on the counter as I ruined each section and/or released it before cool.

sidenote: I have never seen anyone so happy about a print as that teacher when I handed her the second batch. She literally beamed.

>>2586568
>It's also a good idea to let it cool down completely before removing it from the print bed
it visibly got separated from the plate during the print
>If you're printing on glass, then make sure its super clean before beginning
I wiped it via alcohol although I didn't wash it.
>The adherence is very powerful
Yeah normally it was like that for me as well. It is very hard to remove, this time it failed though

Thanks for the suggestions. I will increase temps, make it very clean and add a brim (not a huge problem since it is all rectangular and I can easily remove/cut it). If that doesn't work I will try glue >>2586565

Another question: Can I do anything about those lines? They are caused by strands it makes while jumping from one area to another and still extruding a little. Retraction is enabled so I am not sure what else I can do

Honestly I am thinking of pausing printing after it prints all wall lines and clean all strands. So it can print rest of the surface on clean plate

>>2586577
maybe this is the setting I am looking for?

>>2586576
Based 3D printing 4th grader

>>2586577
>Can I do anything about those lines? They are caused by strands it makes while jumping from one area to another and still extruding a little. Retraction is enabled so I am not sure what else I can do
You can play with the z-hop and retraction settings, and you could also consider changing from lines to concentric or zigzag pattern

>>2586536
do not buy from kingroom directly. I ordered two pei sheets and the exact same linear rail upgrade a month ago and still have no email confirmation and they haven't replied to the one email i sent them, i'll send one more email before doing a chargeback, the kp3s pro is an amazing printer but from now on I'm buying anything Kingroon branded off Amazon or Aliexpress

>>2586587
Odd, my first kingroon I bought off their site with a coupon.

Did you by any chance choose the chinese warehouse? I could see that being most probable to your situation. when you made the order you entered an email, download the shop app by shopify and see if your order is in there.

Friend got an engineering job so I printed this out for him

I'm interested in using 3D printing to make a wax version of a small machine part, and then using that wax part to make an investment cast so I can make it out of metal. Has anyone here ever done anything like that before?

>>2586622

>>2586622
>>2586622

Hi guys, I need to print a model, not too complicated and no need for it to be very detailed, then I want to make a platinum silicone mould of it. What is the best print technology for it? I heard SLA can cause cure inhibition with silicone. Should I do others and sand the model? I care about smoothness of the surface. Also I won't be printing personally but using some print service hence I am not married to one tech.

>>2586644
you can find dragon dildoes at fair prices on etsy nowadays anon

The big difference belt alignment can make, all I did was lower one pulley by a mm.

>>2586626
I haven't done it yet, but check out "lost pla casting"....
If you don't intend to cast the same part repeatedly, it may make more sense to go directly from PLA to metal without having to cast wax.

>>2586645
I am more into knurled buttplugs.

>>2585417
Biden wants to add even more efficiency regulations for appliances. Are there knowledge-sets on upgrading or modding appliances?

I know nothing about appliances repair or 3D printing, I just want to throw money at grey market anons who can make me a high end dishwasher for cheap.

I vaguely remember an anon complaining about 1 single part that separates new shitstain clothes washers from old high quality ones. I wonder if there are similar low hanging fruit for other appliances.

Can the RS-CNC or other reprap-like cnc machines that are printed hold a router that can handle metal/alumnium?
i would love to print a cnc machine, but i'd only need it for metal routing, and the examle ive seen doesnt look too high res0

>>2586248
>v rollers on y axis
y

>>2586663
take the edm-pill

>>2586644
Sla leave in sun to fully cure, sand, paint, cast.

Is there any hydrophilic filament I can get without breaking the bank?

>>2586644
people on that other site reccomend Siraya Tech Fast ABS-like Navy Grey for having a reputation for not inhibiting the curing of platinum silicone. Supposedly you can just print, cure and clean as normal, and then add silicone.

>>2586549
>>2586577
printing again. increased temps, washed the plate, added brim, increased layer height to 0.2mm

I also flipped the model so front side is at top. So I can iron it and get a better front hopefully. Hopefully supports will enough

It still creates strands with different z-hop etc settings. There is probably a setting for it in those thousand settings but I can't find it. What I don't get it is everything is fine while it is printing the brim or layers above 2, there are no strands. Only during printing the actual first layer it creates strands while jumping from space to space. Tried pausing and cleaning but i can't do it without damaging the layer.

With now needed support and ironing, it will take 7 hours. More than before despite me also doubling the layer height.

Tried pausing and cleaning but it is hard without damaging it

printed some thin spacers for my qshave double-edge meme razor to get its minimum agressiveness back
shaves like a dream again

Have any of you messed around with custom designing and 3D printing shoes? How can I use AI to streamline the process for someone with no CAD or 3D printing experience?

>>2586774
is this what fags do these days?

What does this mean? If this is non-zero it means support won't touch the ceiling? It looks like that is the case when I slice it, the support stops one layer before the ceil

Then what is the point? Is it there so it sags at most 1 layer? Or is it like an emotional support.

>use klipper
>print at 100% speed for years
>get the urge to crank it up all of sudden
>shitty printer does just fine at 150%

Someone could have told me!

is the price difference between an ender 3 and an ender 3 v2 worth the upgrade?

im a first time buyer

>>2586802
If you want higher speeds you should set them in the slicer. The speed percentage multiplies all feedrates in your Gcode which screws up your retraction speeds.

>>2586774
>How can I use AI to streamline the process for someone with no CAD or 3D printing experience?
You don't.

>>2586831
I'll just leave it like it is for now. It works fine, difference in quality is negligible and everything seems to work fine.

>>2586800
It's because there needs to be a gap or it'll just be a solid printed piece.
The idea with supports is to deliberately achieve poor adhesion so they're easy to remove from the finished part.
With no gap, they'll be attached just as solidly as any other part of the print, and you'll be cutting away at them with a knife rather than easily pulling them off.
Yes, that means the supported layer can potentially sag. Modern slicers are made with this in mind, they plan for it.
It's also important to remember that it's not "1 layer," it's a gap you define, and the height of the support layers are usually changed by the slicer to achieve that gap.
Look at the extensive options related to support, bridge, and overhang generation in PrusaSlicer and/or SuperSlicer.

>>2585417
>>2583257
fucking saucenao pls

also I would try doing a sphere in clear with the iris inverted as a dish (think death star) with crenelations for the iris and a cylinder hole for the pupil. basically a sculptor trick. a little paint or dye in the etching and either black paint or a black rod in the iris. play around until you get eyes. you could cylinder hole from the back to get iris color in filament too, but keep the whole shape an inverted dish.

Bambu lads. If you overlap two .stl in Bambu lab slicer it will try to print both at once in the same space as default. There is a setting to turn this off, so the toolhead doesn't double path and double print but I can't find it. Anybody know what setting I'm talking about?

>>2586852
Looks like an Alice BJD: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4892173

>>2586854
Select the objects you're printing, right-click, "Assemble."
They'll now be treated as one object, and print correctly.

Made a Quadropod. Unfortuntely I suck at CAD stuff so it looks rather clumsy. Gonna start printing and see if it fits together now

No one man should have all this power...

>>2586899

>>2586848
>With no gap, they'll be attached just as solidly as any other part of the print, and you'll be cutting away at them with a knife rather than easily pulling them off
You are absolutely correct anon. Perhaps I should have waited your post before printing. Took like 2 hours to remove them all.

My other mistake was adding brim inside as well

>>2586936
Also this happened. It printed supports and walls just fine and then tried printing ceiling/front but it failed to attach near button holes.

I think my printer is under extruding so it was not able to stitch those bits. I had similar issues before as well, sometimes it is not able to connect walls and wall lines together and leaves small gaps, even while printing directly on top of the plate

And perhaps it was a bit too hot? I dropped temp when I see that and increased flow rate to 105-107% and it went fine after that. It was able to recover on following layers. But I might have bumped flow rate a bit too high because there are some weird patches at front, although nothing was "spewing"

I will check my z-step calibration, I never did that before. Sounds like that might be the cause

And here is the latest attempt. I think I bumped flow rate a bit too much, and it over extruded and caused those patchy areas while ironing. But this will do for now

Thanks for all the help!

>>2586954
fdm is great for this kind of thing

>>2586954
Honestly i think like one guy actually helped, you seemed to figure most of it out on your own

>>2586941
All your problems stem from the fact that you went full retard and printed this face up.
Face down would have given you a great finish without the need for ironing and no supports would be needed.
It's easy to blame it all on the machine and/or slicer settings when you don't understand the fundamentals of the printing process.

If I make a curving surface for a mechanical part to ride against, and I make the surface and the part via cheap 3D printing, what kind of wear can I expect? I don't know anything about plastics really.

>>2587026
GREASE

>>2587029
Right, I understand the concept of greasing parts, but assuming I would grease the part regardless of the material it's made of, what's the ballpark for performance for something like that?

>>2587030
GREASE

>>2587026
it will depend on the plastic you use (pla is the most common and has decently low friction) and the direction you print the parts in, because curves that follow the x/y plane are much smoother than ones printed in other orientations (picrel)

>>2587018
But I printed face down first, it gave me this
>>2586558
>>2586577
It makes strings while jumping around, whixh atucks under the face. and the lines of the faces are highly visible

I am not blaming my machine or the slicer, I am sure there are a combination of settings that would gave better results but I haven't experimented enough yet. And also I wanted to see how supports work or how ironings looks

Are those cheap chink v6 clones worth it? Will I be able to print faster with those if I'm going form stock bowden setup to DD?

>>2587042
That was printed a bit too high off the bed. That's why the lines are very visible and it warped.
For the strings, tune retraction, make sure wipe is enabled, keep Z hop off and increase travel speed.

>>2587044
V6 is a simple design even chinks can clone it. I run one myself haven't had issues for a year+

>>2587044
For the most part, yes.
The heatsinks and blocks are hard to fuck up, the heatbreak/throat and nozzle are the "precision" parts and those are easy to replace any come in a huge variety.
Fuck yes, don't fear the cheap Chinese V6.

Should I dive into resin printing as a relative noob? Only been into fdm for about 6 months but resin printers seem like a much better system overall from my cursory examinations.

>>2587100
It's easy, it's fun, go for it. Watch/read some tutorials and take the safety shit seriously!
Resin is sneaky, like a nigger or a gook, it may not bother you one bit at first.
Smells nice, doesn't make your eyes water, doesn't make your hands itch or anything when they get resin on 'em, so fuck it right?
Repeated exposure will slowly over time increase your sensitivity; keep getting it on your hands, eventually a tiny drop will make you break out in hives; fail to wear a mask, eventually the smell alone will be enough to make it hurt to breath, you get the idea.

Take the PPE seriously, the rest is easy and fun, go for it.

>>2587111
wear the mask to avoid wearing the mask? nigger you took the vaccines didnt you

>>2587111
Thanks for this advice, it was mostly what I was worried about. I'm going to wait until I have a dedicated office/work space instead of having one in my apartment, then.

>>2587113
Brother, not that guy and fuck the vaccine nonsense, but it's an artificial compound which causes allergies.
It's how GMO bullshit the gubbermint puts in the supermarkets alongside with their beloved megacorps and the commies made all the kids have peanut allergies - overexposure to an unnatural source can definitely make you more sensitive.

Just how vaccine retards were retarded to wear masks 3 years down the line, you would've been retarded NOT to wear the mask before we realized it's literally just a flu.
Be reasonable, anon.
Exercise caution, think for yourself, and don't fall for propaganda on any side.
>t. unvaxxed, no smartphone, no 5G bullshit, all savings in silver bullion / crypto / guns, grow my own food, and live innawoods

>>2587113
No, you wear a mask, gloves, and open a window so you don't later need a fucking forced-air hazmat suit to open a bottle without breaking out in hives and struggling to breath.
Repeat exposure makes it get worse and worse over time, being safe with it avoids any of that to begin with and makes accidental exposure less of a problem.

>>2586774
you need to use a deep learning natural language processor. it depends on your workflow but adapting an Agile methodology is critical to delivering projects on time and under budget. you really want to fail early so you can get out of the workshop phase. considering the production cycle, it'll be best to operate with a hypothesis-driven development process.

TRONXY CUNT HERE, UPDATE ON THE PRINTER.
I GOT MY CARDBOARD ENCLOSURE SET UP
HAVEN'T ROOFED IT YET, but bought a Walmart fan for 12 bucks, gonna put a carbon pad on it.
Still haven't decided whether I'm going to print it with ducting going outside, or try to scrub the air inside.
I feel like environmentally best to scrub it, but it'd be cheaper and safer for me to just vent it outside.
Might plant some more trees to compensate for the cancer I'm putting outside.

>>2587194
BANISHED TO THE CARDBOARD BOX.

>>2587195
A fucking cube.

>>2587227
Nice progress, good luck banning the airborne cancer.

>>2587228
Thanks a lot, fren :)
I still ponder the potential sustainability of plastic.
I wonder if there's a way to make plastic sustainable, but with its fundamentally consoomer garbage producing and microplastic generating nature, I'm not sure.
It would be cool if through hyperinflation or economic collapse people started treating all their possessions as heirlooms.
Like how they pass cars down in Cuba for 50 generations.
Reusing everything, upcycling or casting plastics.
Problem is in an economic collapse you get commie revolutions.

I want to one day start a filament recycling facility made with 3D printed parts.
It'd be cool.

>>2586954
This is so neat!!!

>>2586982
Is this an amplifier?

Would anyone recommend buying the $99 creality ender 3 pro from microcenter? I've never been to the store and it's about a 40 min drive. I've never used a 3D printer before, obviously.

If it is worth buying, would you recommend any specific types of filament/media or accessories other than the glass stage and auto leveler instrument in picrel?

Has anyone used the Bambu P1P to print minis? I don't have anywhere that resin printer can go, so I have to make do with an FDM, and want to replace my Ender 3 Pro with something better.

>>2587227
PROGRESS

Has anyone heard of the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder MMU? I printed this Kermit for my wife's co-worker who is going to display it in a pediatrician's office for the kids but I had to print the pieces separately and then attach them.
>>2587258
>Would anyone recommend buying the $99 creality ender 3 pro from microcenter?
No because you'll end up spending more upgrading the piece of shit just to work properly. Get a KP3S, KP3S Pro or Sovol SV06. I have the latter two and love them.

>>2587258
What is better for a newfag? Glass or PEI sheet?
I mean I would rather have perfectly straight workspace witch they guarantee (r-right?). But then, getting dirty with some adhesion like glue or hairspray and then cleaning it does not sound cool. On the other hand, I would like some texture on my flat parts.

>>2585417
I'm gonna print my of set of teeth aligners. just need something to make a good mold of my teeth. Why pay thousands when I literally have all the tools at home?

>>2587354
i imagine you would probably fuck your teeth up quite badly if you do it wrong.
but, i did see this guy who did that, and i saved the page specifically because i thought it was interesting.
https://amosdudley.com/weblog/Ortho

>>2587375
Nah it's not. You do it incremental and you remodel your teeth from scanning the mold. So you know how it will look in the end. And you have to so it in small increments. Sire kf you're trying to make your own chain braces that could fuck you up a lot. But aligners are pretty simple.

>>2587378
definitely. if you understand how to use the tools, and the consequences for moving your teeth too quickly, and you have access to equipment of sufficient accuracy, then yeah it's the same thing an orthodontist does.

in the same way, making model rocket engines is fun and safe if you know what to do, and if you don't then you can make a bomb and kill yourself.
or making soap is fun and safe if you know what you're doing, yet people give themselves lye burns.

i think i'd definitely do it. i had braces as a teenager, and i grind my teeth so i fuck up the retainer i'm meant to wear. and to get a new one is 100$, and that's fucking horseshit. i'd definitely make my own, if i had a good enough scanner.

>>2585417
Guys let's say I want to 3D print earrings... what kind of metal parts do I need exactly? And how do I attach it to the plastic, with a glue gun or what?

thanks, forgive me I'm retarded

>>2587392
I would just buy cheap earrings that are similar to the type I want to build and reuse its metal parts

Otherwise buy steel wire, make hooks and attach what ever you want I guess

>>2587231
You dump plastic everytime you buy something in a plastic packaging. Or plastic packaging involved while that item was shipped to you. 3d printer plastic you wasted is only a little dent on all other waste you produce.

I think people go more sentimental for 3d printer waste because it feels like it is a waste you personally produced

>>2587258
It is probably cheaper to buy more expensive printers that already has those features

>>2587404
>I think people go more sentimental for 3d printer waste because it feels like it is a waste you personally produced
Oh now I understand why I love to look back at the WC every time I take a shit

just paid exactly $300 for a tronxy X5SA-2E

>>2586558
levelling is probably off with the warping and lines looking squidgy (or didn't heat bed long enough before starting).

>>2587258
>Would anyone recommend buying the $99 creality ender 3 pro from microcenter?
I would. I have a Ender 3 and never changed a thing on it so far. It's not a fast printer, but it prints and for the cost of $99 it seems to be good priced.

You don't need auto bed leveling, the system with the springs works just fine unless you change build plates all the time.
You don't need silent fans if the printer is in a basement or spare room.
You don't need a better extruder, if all you print is PLA or ABS.

You don't need most or any of the upgrades.

Next best printer is the Sovol SV06 i would say, but it's $250 or so.

>>2587339
>Glass or PEI sheet?
I think it's glass. To make sure your prints don't get too attached to the glass itself, use a glue stick on it. Once calibrated, a glass bed will not only work reliably, it will also add thermal mass to the bed.

>>2587419
Sweet.

>>2587339
glass worked fine for the few PLA prints i did to start with.
for PETG its useless and I went to an FR4 board.

>>2587315
>Has anyone heard of the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder MMU?

Yes, I watched Nero3d when he build one and put one on his ender switchwire conversion I believe. Its been a while, but it seems so much print is wasted just purging alone. What are you wanting to know though?

>No because you'll end up spending more upgrading the piece of shit just to work properly. Get a KP3S, KP3S Pro or Sovol SV06. I have the latter two and love them.

obviously not the anon asking, I bought a kp3s liked it, but always had to put into consideration its 180 print size, but its not a huge deal I have 5 printers with different bed sizes. ANYWAYS, I ordered a kp3s pro, which is this post here. >>2586248

However, to upgrade the ender 3 pro, doesn't take much, personally this is what I would plan to do at the very minimum.

first:
>pei or glass bed (optional)
>all metal heat break in stock hotend
>make cardboard box enclosure
>move psu outside of cardboard box
>print ABS printed parts for ender 3 z belt
>print some sort hotend cooling setup like satsana, herome, whatever else is out there

heat break : ~5-8 USD
z belt : ~30-40 dollars USD
pei or glass bed (optional) : 20-30 dollars.

those alone are already reaching prices of kp3s pro on amazon which is ~210, if buying a pei/glass bed.

last thing I would do is add a SBC like a orange pi of some sort and slap klipper on it. Optional I have 2-3 extra BTT SKRI Pico boards so I can print an adapter mount and put that in the ender 3, if I wanted.

>>2587500
>so much print is wasted just purging alone
Depends on your model and how many changes you have, but most slicers which support this style of multi material allow purging in the infill or supports so you can lower your losses significantly.
Another thing to note is that a lot of the material in the purge tower is not purging at all, it's simply there to keep the tower structurally sound.
Theoretically you can get rid of the tower if you have a purge bin but I'm not sure if this style of purging is supported by slicers.

That being said ERCF can also be used for finishing nearly empty spools. Have some filament sensors on the inputs so when it detects that the current spool runs out it can move on to the next.

>>2587466
Why would you want to print in PETG. not PLA+ or ABS?

>>2587505
>Theoretically you can get rid of the tower if you have a purge bin but I'm not sure if this style of purging is supported by slicers.

First thing that comes to mind about a purge bin is that it might be required to be mounted to the gantry and away from the bed, in order for it to be safe to surge without worrying about ruining the print.

Which is easily achievable, I've seen purge bucks mounted at the farthest end of a gantry on creality printers, and coreXY/croXY printers.

>>2587508
ABS gives you cancer and warps too easily so i'd need an enclosure and ventilation system.
PETG is more temperature resistant and consistent (because PLA+ isn't a real thing).

>>2586549
try REDUCING bed temp, no joke

>>2587404
Oh no, anon, I'm literally talking 99% about plastic packaging.
3D printing is like 0.000001% of all plastic waste.

By sustainable I meant, I wonder if we could make ALL plastics sustainable, or get rid of them, or find a way to recycle them into something useful (like filament), or have a closed loop system of people 3D printing useful things from recycled packaging.

Don't think I'm so naive as to ignore the 99% issue, I know anon.

>>2587607
>I wonder if we could make ALL plastics sustainable, or get rid of them, or find a way to recycle them into something useful
Yes and no. Getting rid of them would be the best option but nobody is going to want to do that because it'll mean transporting any goods is suddenly way more expensive to account for the weight of steel, glass, and rubber.

>>2587540
>PLA+ isn't a real thing
is blue plastic a real thing? what about red plastic?

PETG isn't a thing either. what average molecular weight is the PETG you're buying?
what's the ratio of glycol subunits to terephthalate? is it all terephthalic acid or are some subunits isoterephthalic acid? that changes the temperature it crystallizes at.

there's no such thing a a "standardized plastic". every manufacturer has their own 11 herbs and spices and the PETG that you get from ESUN is not the same PETG you get from BASF

dumb question: how do you avoid jams from carbonized PLA as you're trying to switch from a PLA print to something like Nylon 6?

>>2587654
For sure, which is way as I mentioned, I'm just speculating on what it'd be like.
I expect the gubbermental collapse and regression of society to a state of poverty like Cuba will inadvertently lead to the end of consoomerism.

Ultimately a net good, as much as I hate communists, the only thing they ever got right was unintentionally destroying consoomerism.

>>2587676
Cold pull.

>>2587676
If you're that concerned you can run a short section of cleaning filament.
but in reality you can do a "cold pull" with pla at like 50C nozzle, then make sure you extrude nylon at 230C manually for a bit before you start your print.

>>2587419
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804616214433.html

>manually level bed
>make it a bit tight, print the boat
>second layer squished in and letters at bottom are very thin
>raise it a bit higher, so paper moves more freely with less resistance
>it makes a spaghetti because it doesn't stick
Should have bought those blue touch stuff

I think my original approach was a bit better. I level until paper drags and when I slide out the paper there is a little "thumb" as it hits plate. Once I got that I will release it a tad perhaps if it is too close

If I want to convert my ender 3 v2 to have no bed springs, what would I need? Is a bed level sensor a requirement? Just having a manual screw-adjustment on the height of the Z limit switch could be nice. Dual-Z would probably be a requirement though, to ensure the gantry remains parallel.

>>2587419
i dont even know what that is

>>2587688
>>2587691
I thought so, being the dumdum I am I had just finished clearing a giant mass of carbonized crud from my last attempt

>>2587868
Also, just look at your sequence.
Do you warm your bed at the same time you're heating your nozzle?
Your nozzle should be the last thing to start heating.

Why is there so much fud whenever people talk about 3d printing elsewhere? I see the new trend of "3d printed shoes" think "not sure if that'll hold up" but other people are unironically saying stuff in the comments like "Yeah not paying 1000 dollars for a printer" "what about the 50 dollar filament and electricity???" or "all I need is to spend thousands to save money on shoes laughing emoji" like is there an agenda to make 3d printers look like a bad deal or what

>>2587878
>like is there an agenda to make 3d printers look like a bad deal or what
People feel it's uncanny or afraid it makes other stuff obsolete so they shit on it to make themselves feel better.

>>2587878
>is there an agenda to make 3d printers look like a bad deal or what
Unironically yes, because 3d printers lets you make shit like deagles and ((they)) are working hard to make sure ((they)) are the only ones who can wield the power of high speed projectiles.

>>2585554
the tranny is right

Any 3d pig disgusting anons have any experience with injection molding?
I want to make aluminium molds for these parts. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4884410 However I am pretty sure I would need to use blown moulding since they are tubular sections. Is this correct? I was thinking of splitting it in half along the horizontal plane so I get a halfpipe section and then just rotating it to build a complete part. Could this be a feasible solution? btw I can't just print them because I want to sell them and the kit that I plan on replicating has like 300 of these parts, and it siply woudln't be economically feasible.

>>2587947
BTW, the reason why I don't want to use blown moulds is because I plan on getting a cheap chinese moudling machine and do the parts myself.

>>2587947
>Any 3d pig disgusting anons have any experience with injection molding?
Very limited
I would need to use blown moulding since they are tubular sections. Is this correct?
Blow molding is for thin unifrom cross-sectioned products. Your stuff has appendages, flanges and varying wall thicknesses that are injection-molding territory. To produce the geometry in the thingiverse-link parts you'll need collapsible core moulds for forming inner geometries with undercuts. Those are more complex molds to design, manufacture and operate but you might get a competetive offer from alibaba because the market is so vast.
If you can tolerate a two-part design you can go with natural molds. You'll have to redesign the parts a bit though, but you'll have to reverse-engineer them anyways if you're going to submit them for toolmaking.

>>2587982
Not him, but I wonder what JLCPCB is like for ordering CNC milled metal to be used as injection moulding tooling?

>>2587401
>make hooks and attach what ever you want I guess

Attach how exactly? With glue or by making hook-able parts in my earrings?

>>2587705
Neato!

>>2587786
No, you just replace the bed springs with silicone pieces and level as before.
If you want to replace the springs with regular screws, so that the bed can't be leveled anymore, you need mesh bed leveling, which is best done with some kind of bed level sensor, but can also done manually.
Without a sensor you have to level every time you change the bed surface (glass today, PEI tomorrow, tape the day after). Most have the same bed surface all the time, so manual bed mesh leveling is an alternative.

However, most go for a sensor. You have the option between BL-Touch, CR-Touch, 3D-Touch inductive and capacitive. Capacitive is highly temperature dependent, so don't think about it. CR-Touch and 3D-Touch are bad (in terms of weight and/or precision) clones of the BL-Touch.
That means you want the BL-Touch or a inductive sensor. Inductive is cheaper, but only works well with metal surfaces (aluminium or magnetic PEI-sheet), that means BL-Touch is your best option for precision, independent of temperature and surface.

Luckily you can buy a set to install a BL-Touch on the V2, i had bought one and it worked fine, i payed 14€, but the regular price is around 40€ for the set i think:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003384884651.html
"Ender-3 V2 BL Touch Auto Nivellierung Kit 32 Bit Creality BL Touch Sensor Auto Nivellierung Für Ender-3 Pro Bltouch 3D drucker Teile", then choose Ender3 V2.
The shops name is "Ender Official Store".
Make sure it's the Antclabs BL-Touch, don't accept any clones, as you will have trouble.

They sent mine from Spain and is was in Germany in two days. I made some pictures:
https://forum.drucktipps3d.de/forum/thread/22053-antclabs-bl-touch-f%C3%BCr-14/

>>2587878
World is full of cunts, that is all there is is to it. People think they are clever by spouting what comes to their mind without thinking. On sites like Reddit people get selected for it, the more nonsense you spout that sounds like the opinion of most, the more updoots. Critical voices get discouraged and give up eventually.

A good skill is to ignore the noise, don't engage in drama, cut through the BS and just do your thing.

>>2588004
>If you want to replace the springs with regular screws, so that the bed can't be leveled anymore, you need mesh bed leveling
Mesh bed levelling is for taking into account the perturbations in flatness, they're not needed if the bed is sufficiently flat and the corners are properly levelled with screws. If you had a sufficiently flat (glass) bed that was shimmed in the corners to be level you'd never need a level sensor. Assuming you never changed surfaces. Honestly I think rigid-mounting with glass is the chad move, but that assumes the aluminium frame holding the bed doesn't bow.

For my next printer I'll make a custom crossed-gantry machine with quad independant Z screws that can auto-level themselves.

>>2588009
>For my next printer I'll make a custom crossed-gantry machine with quad independant Z screws that can auto-level themselves.
I too like to add complexity for neatness sake.

If you have sensor, might as well level the bed manually once and use the sensor for when you want to use different surfaces.

As for having no mesh, as your print surface is flat, fine if you have glass, but unlikely if you have aluminium or steel.

i want to get into 3d printing. is the sovol sv06 a good start? its only 280€ atm

>>2587994
I don't know about that but I've seen resin printed molds being used to prototype smaller injection molded parts. Also Xometry offers a turnkey injection molding service but I've not used it.

>>2588013
went and ordered the ender 3 because it was just 170€.
is that any good? if i enjoy 3d printing ill upgrade at some point down the line anyways but if theres anything in particular i should know about the ender 3 i would like to hear it

>>2587878
People are lazy and trying to drag down others who are motivated to craft something or in general have a hobby.

They are right about those gay shoes thou, you need to be a special kind of faggot to wear those around

>>2588082
You kinda messed up. A 3 pro has some important upgrades and would not have been much more expensive. 24V power supply and a 40mm extrusion for the Y axis. Also a chance to come with a 32 bit board.

I need a spool holder for my ender 3 that is just 2 inches shorter so that it fits in my shelf. I can't find any though, does anyone know of a shorter spool holder or an alternative?

Not sure if this is the right place, but has anyone here tried selling 3d prints of things you've modeled yourself from video games/pop culture? What's the legality regarding this, does it count as fan art?

>>2588013
>>2588082
I think the Sovol SV06 has a better value at 280€, due to it's bed leveling you can easily use different build plates.
But you certainly can print as nice with the Ender3 as well, if you use different buildplates in the future, you either have to recalibrate Z all the time or add a bed level sensor.

That said, if you can, cancel the order for the SV06. You can thank me later.

>>2588107
Doesn't make much difference really.

>>2588122
It's llegal and yes. Most countries need you to register a business. Also, make sure you wirte everything down for the taxman.

Life sucked for a while but I'm finally back to a situation where I can start printing again
I assume I missed a bunch of innovation in the past year and a half and I've been thinking about upgrading from my first gen photon and AC i3 to something a bit more modern, when I was actively keeping up with the hobby the Mars 2 had just hit the regular retail market so I've got a lot of research to do
I assume CURA is still the recommended slicer, but has there been a better resin slicer I've never been a fan if the anycubic branded one

>>2588140
Cura is the same as ever, a good slicer with a horrific interface. Use PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer, there's not an excuse to use Cura anymore.
For resin printing, slicing is fucked, Lychee Slicer is still "the best" which is pretty sad. You can actually do resin slicing with PrusaSlicer, but it's far from ideal and I don't recommend it.
UV Tools is essential for really taking advantage of a resin printer.

>>2588155
I found prusa ui even harder because settings and the preview windows are seperate tabs and you can't have both open at once. Go to settings, tweak some values, go back, slice again etc. It gets tiring

While on Cura you can just change a setting and hit "slice"

>>2588012
>unlikely if you have aluminium or steel.
Is it not doable to just put other bed surfaces atop the glass? Even put a heated surface atop the glass but below a PEI bed.

>>2588122
100% legal so long as you don't claim it's your own and don't claim it as a business. It's legally considered a fan work.

>>2588113
you have a 3d printer anon. make one yourself

>>2588275

I'd like to into high-temperature filaments by upgrading my old-ass anycubic i3 mega s. What's the current meta on all-metal hotends with direct extrusion?

For image at top, I want it to retract before jumping these holes so it does not cause strings. I think it is not retracting because it is going over the model anyway and any leakage will be stuck under the layer it will print later. But I want it to retract anyway. Am I missing a setting?

I am searching produced gcode for "retract" or "E-" but there is no retraction other than the ones at the beginning and the end.

For comparison on bottom, it does retract before jumps. See the gcode, E-3.52105 after it draws "outer wall" for left cube

here are the gcodes if someone wants to confirm or deny

top image
https://pastebin.com/JTnBBWKF

bottom image
https://pastebin.com/KVyKTWJN

>>2588333
I forgot to put my cura settings in image

Retraction is enabled, "retract before outer wall" is enabled. I am not sure what else I can change

>>2588335
combing can help maybe, i don't really understand what your issue is. if its top surface finish or just keeping the holes as clean internally as possible, because you can trade one off for the other.

download this plugin for cura if you haven't, it'll help you understand what settings do and let you decide for yourself what tradeoffs you want
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrvkJOPoWMc

>>2588346
I am this anon, I want to avoid those strings >>2586577

Those strings are blue arrow I made in this image. Slicer first makes it print those walls around the holes. but while jumping from one hole wall to another, it leaks a bit and causes those strings. They are covered after it prints rest of the layer but it looks very ugly.

I want it to retract so it does not leek during that jump.

>>2588349
*purple arrow

>>2588349
are you z-hopping? that slows down the motion of your extruder head and often will cause stringing.
zhopping solves a specific problem with regard to warping and delicate surface features, but the tradeoff is stringing.

i'd do a stringing tower thing if you haven't done one. you might be either over or under retracting, maybe you could increase the speeds of your retractions, etc.
but the top surface finish is always going to be inferior to the bottom surface (if it's flat touching the bed)
especially if it has holes in it.

worst case you can iron the surface and it will make it uniform.

>>2588354
"z hop when retracted" is disabled

I printed a stringing tower today as well, it came out perfect. It does not string at all for me with this filament.

So it can avoid strings if it wants to by retracting before jumps. It just doesn't do that in this specific instance where it jumps over the parts that will be covered by the layer anyway

>ironing
that is for top layer, my issue is the bottom layer

Just picked up an Ender 3 S1 for $300.01 (after taxes) new in box from Microcenter. Never done printing before. Anything I should print for it right away? I'm currently printing a feeder helper for the filament sensor. Also, thinking about upgrading the hot end to an all-metal one. It's $25+shipping on amazon.

>>2588361
oh shit okay you are doing the bottom layer. yeah of course it's like a clamshell for a video game thing ok yeah i see what you mean.
it's like stringing over unprinted areas.
ok so you can turn on in the visualizer, the tool paths. and it'll show you the motions that the head is taking.

maybe doing inner walls first would help,
i dunno.
some leaking is inevitable. you want your retractions as small as possible, and as fast as possible, without causing jams. you want to pull the molten filament out of the nozzle instantly and minimize the time spent moving and not printing, because that's time when it'll seep out of the nozzle.

i'd change your combing to "not on outer surface" or "not in skin" instead of all. might help the travel moves avoid those areas.

Anyone that printed light blue PLA+ inland/eSun/Microcenter is there a ABS that has the same shade? The ABS labeled light blue is way too light.

Brand doesn't matter imo.

Anyone bought this random rubbish off Amazon before? Dual colour stuff looks funky and I wanna try it out

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DD-Filament-Silk-Co-Extrusion-Materials/dp/B0B4FPFYJ4

>>2588370
Would make some good looking dragon dildos

>>2588379
Might get this pack desu nicer set of colours
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Filament-Yousu-Non-brittle-performance-Compatible/dp/B09YNX4P16

>>2588367
oops forgot to add links.

ABS light blue
https://www.microcenter.com/product/486360/inland-175mm-light-blue-abs-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)


pla pro light blue
https://www.microcenter.com/product/632398/inland-175mm-pla-pro-3d-printer-filament-1kg-(22-lbs)-spool-light-blue

and light blue PLA PRO are the ones nearly identical. and IDK why they are lighter than the pla+, pla+ is better shade of light blue, imo.

>>2588370
they suck dick because they're silk filaments.
i was talking to polymaker about them making it in a non-silk filament. dunno if they're going to do it, but the chinese lady i was emailing said that it was something they were considering.

>get an ender 3 v2
>print some stuff out of the box just fine
>install a dual Z-axis kit
>X gantry is now crooked as hell
>can't get it flat even by doing a raindance around the table the printer sits on
what God have I angered to deserve this

>>2588390
Whats wrong with silk?

>>2588275
I want it to be good

>>2588401
it's brittle. the TPE they put in the silk PLAs makes the physical properties garbage. practically worthless for anything other than looking at. and i want to make useful stuff, that also is multicolored and ridiculous.

>>2588409
so there is nothing wrong with it if I just wanted to print off some funky looking toys for children

>>2588414
i guess if the children just want to look at them and not play with them sure. otherwise, they break. that's what i'm saying. it's probably the last plastic i'd make a toy for a kid out of.

My extruder gear wasn't working.
Keyword "wasn't"

>>2585417
Where can I see datasheet of most nema 17 steppers? I want to check some before ordering but google shows no results, model:
42SOL-60-1206

>>2588658
Ask the manufacturer.

>>2588498
>levers how do they work

holy shit
the aquila uses jpegs instead of actual text

>>2588910

>>2588910
Easier than to implement UTF8 and TTF, since JPEG support was done by a westerner.
CCP wins again.

Have large hands, needed a grip for my handheld for playing Gauntlet, this was the fast testprint (0.3mm layers, 0.5mm width) to see if it fits.
Finer and slower print is going nicely.

>>2588922
Cool

>>2588964
Y-you too.

>>2588922
>Easier than to implement UTF8
It's a JPEG, not a bitmap. JPEGs need spacial fourier transforms to decode, and I can't imagine they're doing that. I can only imagine they got jpeg images of the full charset, then converted them to full-colour bitmaps to be stored in ROM. Which is maybe not a bad idea if you want to get antialiasing on your typeface without calculating it realtime, but only if you first get rid of the compression artefacts.

>>2589009
Could be.

>>2585417
>set speed settings in Cura for each thing (walls, infill, etc)
>start print
>it's always 25mm/s for the bottom shell which takes fucking forever

why is my printer ignoring my speed settings? It's an FLSUN Super Racer by the way

>>2589083
And yes, I did change Cura's parameter that's specific to the bottom layer

>>2588498
Why is there a huge analog alarm clock hanging there?

>>2589083
>>2589084
Nevermind, found the fucker.

>>2589087
Makes the extruder gear work.

>>2589106
Man, I do not have the mental capacity right now to break down whatever the fuck is happening in that setup.
Good God it's like an AI-generated image

TRONXY ADVENTURES CONTINUE
PRESENTING: HOMEMADE POORFAG DUCTING SYSTEM FOR FUME EXTRACTION

>>2589115
POWERED BY A WALMART FAN

>>2589116
>>2589115
kino

>>2589130
A PPE SYSTEM TO SURPASS 20,000 VENTILATION SYSTEMS

IT'S CALLED DUCT TAPE FOR A REASON
YOU MAKE DUCTS OUT OF IT DAMN IT

>>2589136
I need to see the full installation
come anon, deliver

>>2588910
i was in disbelief when i saw it too.

>>2589138
LONG AND PHALLIC

>>2589111
Its just random shit I found to put weight on the extruder arm

>>2589151
damn son. Ghetto as fuck. I approve

>>2589158
How many Z screws and Z guide rods is that?

>>2588498
Why not use a stiffer spring, or a spacer on the spring?

>>2588498
Next episode:
>My extruder arm broke wtf enders are so shit

>>2588498
you know you could design and print a spacer for that. or just fuck with the screw or whatever

>>2589151
when i was in middle school i hot glued a bunch of cardboard together to make an M1919.
i thought it was really badass because i could flip up the top cover and also move the cocking handle.

>>2589249

anyway to rip models from sites?
my headset just broke here and i want this but i ain't paying 12 bucks
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/kingston-hyperx-cloud-2-hinge

>>2589156
>>2589115
kino....

>>2589211
>>2589238
>>2589248
I ended up changing the extruder gear with a new one that I didn't knew I had laying around, works nice now

>>2589195
2 Z screws and 4 guide rods, its an ender 5 plus

>>2589384
Fukken saved

I was checking the offsets finally since I'm really printing on the edge and wtf its not that bad. Thought it gonna be way worse.
Offsets gonna be something like +X(something) -Y (something), right?

>>2589384
whoa, too high print speed there buddy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIC-GlxI7Q

Time to shill!

Is there a trick to making support-touching areas not look like stretchmarked cellulite hag legs?

>>2589384
>3D Printed firearm detected, administering neurotoxin. Please do not resist.

>>2589469
>$400 more expensive than P1P
ngmi

>>2589469
bambusisters..,,,... we were too cocky,,,,,,

>>2589456
Finally, I did it.

>>2589469
Good Luck, I'm behind 30 Ender 3 Upgrades

>>2589469
Not gonna lie, they seem to have accelerated now that they have competition. I wanted to buy a kit, but obviously it's sold out already (890€, a P1P costs 820€ here).
They seem to have taken all the features that are good in the P1P, yet stick to the open source hardware and software model.
I like it.

My part cooling fan won't move unless the speed is set to at least 75%.
I upgraded from the stock ender 3 v2 fan to a noctua fan, am running a buck converter (proper wiring, buck converter gets power from PSU directly, + output to fan, fan - to motherboard pin).

I am really struggling because I get severe corner curling issues due to the cooling being too strong, I need to be able to use a wider range of fan speeds to get optimal results, but I'm stuck in this 75% to 100% range...

Is this normal? Do other people out there also experience this fan speed limitation?
Basically if I set it to something like 50% the fan twitches but doesn't actually spin up. I could really use suggestions.

>>2589565
Is the fan a 4 pin PWM fan? I bet it is. You cannot properly wire this to a two pin fan header that simply.

These fans are designed to have a constant 12V supply, and get a reversed 25kHz PWM signal for fan control. The other pin is the tachometer pin and you don't need to use it if you don't want, but if you want, you can plug it into an unused GPIO pin and configure klipper to display RPM info.

Assuming red=positive, black=negative, blue=pwm, yellow=tach, the proper way to configure this would be:

red wire to + pin on buck converter, black wire to - pin on buck converter, blue to the - on the motherboard pin, don't bother with the yellow wire.

in klipper config:
[fan]
pin: !mobopin
cycle_time: 0.00004

>>2589586
fuck, it is 4 pin
thanks for the info!

>>2589586
PS, if you set it up this way, the one annoyance is that when you start the printer up, the fan will spin at full speed, until klipper finishes booting up and sends the pwm signal to stop the fan. Not a big deal.

Here are some guides on the topic:
https://www.nicksherlock.com/2022/01/driving-a-4-pin-computer-pwm-fan-on-the-btt-octopus-using-klipper/

https://os.ratrig.com/docs/guides/4028/

Last post on 4 pin fans

This is my Ender 3 with a 4 pin 4028 server fan. It's loud as FUCK when I turn the printer on, because the fan doesn't stop until klipper finishes booting. There are ways to avoid this if I was running a BTT octopus or some other board with multiple hotend output pins but unfortunately I'm using an SKR Mini E3v3 and there's no way around it with this board.
https://files.catbox.moe/qs22ct.mp4

Prusa Mk4 just launched. Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIC-GlxI7Q

Looks like a modern printer -- much better computer and connection will make it easier to use. Prusa's attention to detail and quality control will probably make this quite a nice (albeit expensive) printer that just works™.

Pretty steep at $800 for a kit, $1100 for assembled. While it's nice that they have various upgrade packs to turn your older Prusa into the mk4, I have a mk3s+ and to upgrade it to a mk4 is $579, so at that point may as well just buy the mk4.

I adjusted the bed the same way I always do but the last couple times I've printed, the nozzle still hit super low, even scrapping the plate. Is there any reason this might be happening? Picrel is after it started scraping I quickly adjusted the plate lower and kept printing

Continuing the Prusa MK4 shilling, they just posted a speed benchy video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcwrEi_CcME

>>2589508
lol this is where I am at right now. Either justifying sinking more money into the Ender, or saving for a MK4, Bambu, or Voron kit.

>>2589550
The open source model is why I am cutting the smallest amount of slack for the pricing. Let's see how the rollout for the MK4 is. I imagine we will be getting some third party reviews by the end of the week.

>>2589671
579 is still less than 800. Or 1100

>>2589698
Consider that the P1P costs almost as much as a MK4 in Germany.

>>2589384
Is that weird abs fumes or is it just catching fire?

>>2589708
abs fumes, don't breathe this

Made myself a cyclone dust separator vacuum to either attach a funnel off the side of my desk or use a hose.

>>2589671
Beardy man continues to troll his cult of retards, now selling the Prusa Ankermake M5 Mk4 for only $800-$1100.
For a Prusa that finally keeps up with a lightly modified Ender 3, and is still worse than the comparably priced P1P.

>>2585845
I worked in a SLA print farm for 3 years, mostly in IPA room and plenty of experience around refilling and cleaning the printers. I never developed any health issues besides too much IPA making my hand skin peeling off twice (similar to sunburn peeling, nothing too serious). Make sure it's a nice vapor mask not a shitty fabric one, and if you want to be real careful grab the black 10mil extra thick nitrile gloves, they keep alcohol out for 4 hours of constant heavy exposure. Also consider the types of resin and the manufacture quality. I was working with Formlabs resin, and i'd say the basic grey is very safe, but their elastic will mess your skin and lungs up very quickly.

>>2586576
Check out the guide "How to Print Glass" on Printables to improve the clearness of those, it takes a lot longer to print stuff but the result is worth it imo

>>2589807
>is still worse than the comparably priced P1P
In what regard, tankie?
Do you really need the electronic Chinese Communist Party beachhead in your local area network?
Can't really tell you how much i hate you commies.
I'd rather buy from that allied Yurofaggot than from the enemy.
Stallman was right, Steve jobs was wrong, get with the times.

>>2589827
>calling someone a commie while worshipping 'ole Commie Stallman
Don't love Stallman, don't love 'ole Steve, luv free markets, build your own 3D printer from scratch, simple as.

To me American globohomo is no different from Chinese commies, West fucks its culture even more than commies in China do.
I agree that I might buy an American-made product though, maybe.
Depending on how based the creator is.
But I'd rater buy from a Chinese communist than an American or Yuropean leftist.

bambu-bros, we got too cocky ; - ;

>>2589897
What's that flat black hoop frame made of?

>>2589901
Genuine Prusa™ brand Prusaminium™.

This is my first layer with PLA+. I'd understand the waviness if it were PETG or other shit that hates the Squish™. The bed is quite fucking level. I've added Z offset so it's actually not squishy at all, calibrated e-steps and flow and it's still way wavy. What should I try next?

>>2589912
Try better adhesion heating up the bed, drying the filament and/or gluestick
Might also be something with your start settings changing the offset after you calibrate or something, I always change it on the fly as the print starts anyway to get the height just right

Might also be your nozzle temp or something weird I'm not thinking of right now

>>2589912
I'd guess it to be some sort of vibration in the X or Y motion of the printer. Try setting the speed to 50% or 200% to see if it does the same thing, or at least see if the spacial frequency changes.

>>2589855
>To me American globohomo
Stopped reading right there and then. 'I refuse to talk someone in drag that defends the shootings and communism.

>>2589897
wake me up when you can daisy chain 12 colors

also

>even the p1p poors can easy enclosure...

>>2589927
It's trans defending gun rights and hating socialism baby. Not that we expect 3rd worlders to understand.

>>2589823
yeah I remember an anon on here printing some stupid slow stupid hot clear pieces, but at 2am I wasn't inclined to try another experiment lol.

PETG bros not like this...

I want to level my bed using shims, is that reasonable?

My plan is to first move extruder to home, then lift Z by 0.2mm or something and then adjust until 0.2mm shim just slides under it and while next one (0.23mm) does not

Is that reasonable?

Also I bought some shims and they are covered in oil. Will they fuck up if I wash them?

>print out a little vase in vase mode
>smooth as fuck nice finish
>print out something else
>some thick lines etc up the body of it

wtf could this be

>>2590017
>Slide
I thought you were going to do something special and you are basically going to do the paper level test but with more steps.

Use a sensor or measure with a caliper if you want to be really precise(measure for each of the 4 corners of the bed) but for general use, I found out that is much easier and faster to simply do a bed level test, check if the plastic gets crushes or is left hanging and be done with it. Unless the piece is very tall or has very specific Z requirements you shouldn't notice the difference, and over time the perfect bed calibrations are simply lost(i.e in a few days of continous printing), which further adds to the "effort/reward" equation.

>>2590017
What you're describing is normal, and will work just fine.
The oil on them is normal, and really unlikely to affect your measurements.
It can leave a teeny bit of residue behind on your build plate, don't worry about it, just clean your bed the way you should be doing anyway.

If they are coated in a thick layer of cosmoline, shellac, wax, etc, then you'd want to clean them. Soap and water, alcohol, solvents, brake cleaner, whatever, I assume the shims are steel.
You can wash them, no it won't fuck anything up, but they may be covered to prevent corrosion.
If you strip and clean them, that may leave them susceptible to rust, might be a good idea to reapply a lighter oil that won't interfere with their use like 3-in-1, Fluid Film, whatever you've got.

>>2589897
Oh boy! I've been waiting on this one
https://youtu.be/sREpwLUzJPE

>>2590026
Bed level test is a lot slower (and it is also relatively objective). Also my current only plastic is black

My problem with paper test is I don't know what "adjust until there is a slight resistance" exactly means

Shims sounds more reasonable to because a shim sliding under extruder or hitting extruder is binary and not as objective as "gives slight resistance". Plus shim thickness is more consistent (i hope)

>Caliper
What exactly I measure? Distance between extruder and bed? I guess i can try that (lift exrtuder by 1-2 cm and measure that) but it wokld be hard to keep calipers perpendicular to bed. It sounds like a shim but worse since it is easier to make an error

>>2589827
It's still a bedslinger, it will never keep up with a P1P.
It has 0 selling points, it's still a 10-year-old printer with a 32-bit mainboard, it doesn't do anything you can't do with an off-the-shelf $250 Chink printer.
Mesh bed leveling, bed probing, that's all standard shit we've been doing for years.
Linear advance? Been using it for years, it's a Marlin feature that Prusa could've been using for years now but hasn't.
Input shaping? Finally gets added to Marlin, suddenly Prusa announces it as a "feature."

MK4 vs P1P:
250x210x220 vs 256x256x256 - P1P
Optional ESP Wi-Fi vs Wi-Fi and Bluetooth as standard - P1P
Bedslinger vs CoreXY - P1P is and will always be faster
No specs on hotend despite claims of "fast" printer vs Hotend that can reach 32 mm3/s flow rate tested with ABS - P1P

Of course they both have automatic bed leveling, I bought my first Bl-Touch almost 7 years ago now.

Best I can tell, the Prusa has no selling points versus the P1P other than the higher price point to get a slightly worse printer.
Fucking Haribo salesman continues to fail to impress, selling old boring shit for an insane markup and refusing to actually compete in the market.

How is the Halot-One CL-60? I haven't tried resin but it's only $150 so I'm thinking of giving it a shot.

Really wish I got into this hobby 10 years from now when so much annoying bullshit tuning is eliminated and I can just plug and print

>>2590054
2k and slow as fuck. other than that, decent for this price.

>>2590024
The wall seams, retard

>>2590036
P1P beats Prusa any day. Fuck open source.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJApQiF4V3E

Josef Prusa himself is doing a livestream right now. If you want to troll him now's the time

LEEEEEEETS GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mk4-kit-2/

>>2590114
its not the seams, I can tell the difference between seams and weird layers

>>2590179
I want one.

>>2590127
does the p1p have an open source slicer/can it acept gcode generated with prusa slicer?

>>2590179
So it's a mk3s with a large gear extruder and a 32bit board?
It better damn well be plug and play, because otherwise Broseph has some justifying to do when it comes to price.

>>2590283
Yes, the Bambu Studio slicer is derived from Prusa Slicer and is open source: https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio
Yes, you can slice for the Bambu printers with other slicers if you want to, including Prusa Slicer, Super Slicer, Cura, Simplify3D, Slic3r, etc.

>>2590283
Doesn't have to. It's better than Prusa shit, that is enough.

Can you cut models in Cura? Print only a portion of it for test purposes?

Say I want to print legs of this robot. I added this cube model and I thought there would be a setting for me to print intersection of cube & robot models but I couldn't see any.

I can do that in blender (import my stl file, union but I was hoping for an easier way. Is there a way I can do this in Cura?

Trying to put together a pretty complicated part
Looks as you see when I print without supports but when I use supports it all goes to shit and there's spaghetti all over the supports
Any advice?

>>2590327
This isn't a picture of the part. Fair. Here's an actual picture of what the print looks like when it fails.

>>2590307
easiest way to do that is to just abort print when it's printed that far.

>>2590331
Alright, then just resume the print or scrap it and give up?

>>2590331
Robot was just an example, I wanted a more generic solution. It won't always start printing from the part I want and I can't always rotate the part.

In robot example I could rotate robot upwards and abort when it finishes with legs but let's say I just want to print 1 leg

>>2590332
>>2590336
You could always just edit the model in cad software and chop off the undesired portions.

>>2590179
>STM32*** 32-bit board
>this is already common in much cheaper printers.

LOL this is the same shit apple does, implement hardware that has already been in phones for years, and sell it expensive as fuck, acting like they are the first to do it.

Jesus christ this is sad.

Page 7, as we all know, is the limit.

New bread, Fresh Knedliky Edition:
>>2590451

New bread, Fresh Knedliky Edition:
>>2590451

New bread, Fresh Knedliky Edition:
>>2590451

>>2590452
we leave it to page 10 on /ohm/
because some guy was making a fuss about having to monitor two threads for a day in case someone posted on the old one

noob question. i just did my first print on an ender 3 and the little spool of filament that comes with the printer ran out mid print. the motor that feeds the filament through the tube wasnt able to push it any further so there was a sizeable length of filament stuck in the tube that couldnt keep moving through the nozzle. what do i do in a situation like that? just add more filament and push the old end out with the new? i ended up just pulling off the tube and pulling out the remaining filament. and because it was still hot in the nozzle it ended up dragging massive strings. can i just jam in a new filament once i get more or should i clean out the tube and nozzle?

>>2591736
>just add more filament and push the old end out with the new?
thats what most people do
>i ended up just pulling off the tube and pulling out the remaining filament. and because it was still hot in the nozzle it ended up dragging massive strings
you do that when the hotend has cooled off, its called a "cold pull"
>can i just jam in a new filament
probably. snip off the strings you made if they get in the way

>>2591736
>i ended up just pulling off the tube and pulling out the remaining filament. and because it was still hot in the nozzle it ended up dragging massive strings. can i just jam in a new filament once i get more or should i clean out the tube and nozzle?
Like the other dude said, let it cool to 90 or so, then rip it out if you want to change colors without having to waste too much. Doesn't matter if you don't mind the colors mixing a tiny bit at the start of a print. The fine string isn't a problem either.