/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Does your woodworking generate income?

Do you sell online or locally?

Is it mostly building things to improve your shop?

Gifts for people?

What would your dream shop have?

This shop is 8'x5'

>>2514405

Light and portable

>>2514409

Less portable

>>2514399
Slut’s

>>2514407
How do you use the grinder?

>>2514390
Y'know .. this isn't a terrible idea.
She gets to safely earn some money, learn a new skill, realize there are other opportunities.
And more importantly, I get sanded scrollwork.
Win-win really.

>>2514399
>What would your dream shop have?
Straight lumber.

>>2514453
>How do you use the grinder?
>Flip-top cart
I imagine it involves flipping the top of the cart.

Early in the previous thread I posted about making a custom edge bander for my chipboard chest-of-drawers-project. On the upside, after some fine-tuning and getting low viscosity EVA glue, I started seeing passable results. On the downside, the passable results still required manual re-gluing with an iron about 70% of the time, maybe down to 50% after I got the hang of the required speed and consistency of feeding. Still, it was a massive pain in the ass to do some 40 meters of edging this way. I also didn't have a very good setup for trimming edges with a router, did a lot of it manually with a chisel. All in all, it probably took like 10+ hours to do the edging, not including the time spent building the edge bander.

>>2514476
After suffering through all that and finishing the project, I went and bought a chinkshit horizontal edge bander. The vertical one I built might've been passable after some further improvements for small pieces, like the sides of drawers, but it was really hard to handle larger parts, like the top plate. It was also completely impossible to use it for banding thicker than 1mm, even 1mm was difficult. 0.5-0.7mm was alright.
This is what I then bought https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000569137844.html and first tests went well. It's pretty fast, the bond it leaves is really strong as it applies glue on both the ABS strip and the wood, and thanks to all the big rollers you can squeeze the edge on hard, even 2mm strips stuck just fine. Will see how it holds up next time I actually have a larger amount of edges to glue. Also I will definitely build a swiveling router mount for cutting the banding, I've had it with chisels.
The steel frame was an extra layer of complication, if I had to build the same thing again, I'd either go with thinner material or just use chipboard for the whole structure. Also it's really fucking heavy.

>>2514476
>>2514481
Anon builds some things and shares them, on 4chan!

Nice to see projects posted, not just more frogs with whiny text.

>>2514470
it's a good way to weed chicks with dicks
as in weed in

is it a good idea to make a sheath for your crosssaw
can you reinforce the packaging that it comes with to make it a sheath

are screws better than nails
how to screw lumber together in a off grid situation if i don't have cordless tool

>>2515247
you can actually just hammer a screw in.

>>2515255
i'm trying to avoid getting bent nails and screws man also the impact from the hammer fucks up the glued section

>>2515244
Nope.
A harem of tomboys.
I'll even let them unionize.
Local 69.

She would charge $250 minimum.
$50 is for people who've never picked a prostitute off the street.

>>2515350

For sex or finishing work?

>>2514390
>Woodwhoring

>>2514390
any anons know how to fix scratches/chips without toxic epoxy/filler?

>>2515497
what do you want to achieve? got a picture? is water resistance important?

>>2514390
what happened to the sticky?

Why does everything I make wobble even when the legs are the same length?

>>2515531
It takes almost no discrepancy for something to wobble and the stiffer it is the more pronounced it will be. Also your floor is probably uneven.

>>2515531
You’re clamping shit too tight when joining stuff together, retard.

>>2514390
i bought some spalted maple to make a table top over the holidays. i don't need a lot as it's a 'couch table' so about 1 x 10' or so. i've never worked with spalted maple before. anything special to look out for?

>>2514399
more room. although that shop is actually too big for me.

Almost finished my poker tabletopped. Just gotta install the cupholders.

>>2515515
I don't have a copy, if someone posts it, I will save it for next time.

>>2515877

>>2515531
glue felt under the feet

>>2515247

Screws are generally better most of the time.

pic is 20 $

or

use a nail set to start a hole, then run the screw in by hand - this works on soft wood like pine or spruce.

>>2515299
Now that's what I call a dream workshop... Got Wood?

>>2516034
>this works on soft wood like pine or spruce.
even with thick wood and long screws? i've had bad experiences with those drills

I found it in the archive. Whoever made this sticky, thank you. I started woodworking recently to help with another hobby/job and the information has been extremely helpful for me.

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carviing and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

>>2514399
It would exist in real life.

>started woodworking a month ago
>already spent over $2000 on tools and wood
>all i have to show for it is a shitty dog bowl table
>it’s sticky because i used too much polyurethane

Hello, /diy/. I'm looking to carve something, but I don't really have any tools and I am a poorfag. Is there such a thing as places where you can go and pay a small fee to use their tools? If so, what are they called and how do I find one?

>>2516319
You're finally free from the plastic Jew and the first thing you do is slather your protect in plastic?
Fucking retarded frogs.

>>2516346
Makerspaces, if you want to hang out with retards. Carving is very low-entry though, you could spend like $10 on tools and use driftwood. Or you could spend $0 on tools, use a kitchen knife, and driftwood.

>>2516353
>Carving is very low-entry though
I want to carve a wooden frame to put a picture in for my girlfriend. Nothing autisticly fancy, but still don't want it to look like shit.

>>2516350
>doesn’t protect his projects
>calls others retard
Unironically neck yourself.

>>2516049
If you drill a pilot hole the right size then driving in a screw is easy with any driver. You only need impact when you neglected to drill it or drilled it too narrow. Also use a screw that doesn't cam out as easily, like a TORX.

>>2516401
Use a drying oil, for crying out loud.

>>2516525
https://youtu.be/SWLm-3_iogw

speaking of finishing i sprayed a piece of ladder made of sticks with random spray paint will it help it preserve it a bit? it's outside in the open

>>2516570
Depends on what was in the spraypaint. If you sprayed with clearcoat then it would last a year probably. If you sprayed with white paint I think that usually lasts long because its just titanium oxide which is basically a rock.

>>2516568
That's very nice. I'll keep using boiled linseed oil like my ancestors did for thousands of years.

>>2516319
>bought a $5 saw
>made a stool/working desk and a small log rack with some scrap wood
>can't say i've ever started woodworking

>>2516574
barked stick lasts a year on it's own before it breaks from any load
i removed the bark and painted it that has to mean something no? the can said acrylic lacquer
is lime useful for wood

>>2516575
K, enjoy having ugly scratched up furniture like your redneck white trash ancestors.

>>2516580
What are you doing to your furniture?

>>2516568
the following might sound controversial, but just try it out and see yourself never buying a canned product again.

The only stuff a hobbyist really needs is raw linseed oil, shellac flakes, alcohol, beeswax, turpentine and maybe stand oil 45p for a shiny oil finish.
They can be renewed with no effort or sanding.
They can be completely stripped if necessary without sanding.
They can be mixed with a pigment if coloring is wanted
They are all as cheap as it gets since one doesnt depend on a brand
Everything else is dicksucking the petrol industry
>muh waterproof
Oil is to a degree, and as a hobbyist you dont have to refund someone who dunked his furniture in the tub
>>2516580
LOL
Rub your fingernails against a poly table, it will show

>>2516582
My nigger.
But I would add soap flakes because soaped oak is superior to all light woods.

>>2516584
never soaped before, did a quick testpiece with fresh brush cleaner soap sludge.
Just like waxpaste, no coloring and shiny but even faster to apply and dry. from application to dry took about half a minute of rubbing.
The top view with the white streaks was just bar soap rubbed on. Imo everything that produces a mirror from that angle is top

>>2516594
It has to be a very specific kind of soap. When you dissolve it in warm water and let it cool down it turns into a gelatinous mass. I'm not sure what's so special about that soap but here it's sold primarily as a very effective cleaner.
My camera doesn't really accurately reproduce the color, probably not helped by it being night here and the light being 2700K LED, and the console could use another treatment. Soap is a super shitty finish in terms of durability but it produces a beautiful color on oak.

yea i used real hard soap, consistency like cum Historically the floor and tables in taverns were soaped, must be something to it after a dozen coats

Here's an advertising shot from the company that made my console. It's quintessentially Danish.

>>2516294
Make it happen fren
If you have the space a steel building is the most affordable, biggest cost is concrete, followed by the building itself, electrical work then spray insulation

>>2516828
Sorry I don't know why my photos keep doing that lately

>>2514390
50 bux an hour for hand sanding? Sign me up!

>>2516828
>If you have the space a steel building is the most affordable
>”Just cook yourself alive in the summer. Lol. Lmao.”

>>2516847
Ye of little faith!
I'll show what I did
Full spray insulation, an exhaust fan, and a mini split ac, roll up door and garage door also insulated
It's quite pleasant in all seasons

>>2516849

>>2516852

>>2516853
I assure you when it 110 outside it will never hit the 70 mark in my cozy metal shop

>>2516849
nice spray. How many froth paks is that?

>>2516609
I don't like the contrasting stain of the flooring, but I build a lot of kitchens and furniture and I love everything else here.

>>2516860
I contracted the insulation, they used closed cell off huge truck and took over two days coated 5 inches give or take over the whole inside at a cost of 6k, friend prices since I knew him, but anon is absolutely right, without a reduculous amount of insulation steel buildings for a hobby shop won't work in areas where it gets hot, and get one of these too!

>>2516319
>Go entirely with hand tools
>Sirens about $150 total
>sirens weeks learning how to hand plane
>still can't do it

>>2516866
you clearly got open cell if it was installed that thick and for that price.

Also open cell is illegal in the majority of the united states because it is so far inferior to closed cell. It just sort of half ass happens to work in the south so its allowed there.

>>2516881
>you clearly
>also illegal
Stop assuming asshole
but yeah I went out and took a look, I may have exaggerated alittle or alot with the 5 inches of insulation
I turned the studs 90 to line up with the square tubing and also allow them to backfill with spray which makes it about 3 inches.. whoops, don't tell me you've never added a couple inches to the description of anything
But it is closed cell, and the price was what it was

Two new cars. Both have design flaws (again) so I didn’t finish them all perfectly.
I’m slowly getting better at it but still have some trouble finding a design/process that’s easy to repeat. Maybe for next one I’ll cut the body with cnc again as I used to, as the spoke shave I ordered has ‘currently undefined lead time’ aka will arrive next summer probably

>>2517237
Cute
>still have some trouble finding a design/process that’s easy to repeat
Master a couple of difficult steps and you'll leave copycats scratching their head

I bought a load of driftwood for a shelf project and they look beautiful but almost as porous and weak as cork. What should I soak them in to strengthen them? Preferably something common so I can get it, I live on the outskirts of civilization.

>>2516828
>>2516830
buildings are so expensive right now

is a similar crossection log of wood with bark say 4" dia less expensive than cut timber like 5:3" for the same length? i'd imagine yes because it hasn't been through the processing even debarking

how do I make a square cut if I don't own any power tools or a hand plane

It was a lot of work to make this table, pretty happy with the final result, despite some obvious flaws that happened during its construction.

>>2517811
Es Beuno

>>2517815
Thanks
Have another image from an earlier state, hopefully not sideways this time.

>>2517811

shit. fix the rotation.

>>2517816
dammit not again.

>>2517816
Don't know why it insists on sideways

>>2517821
Wish I knew what was causing it.

>>2517826
Nice job, an assembly table and a sawbench. Just cover the chairs with plastic sheets and you can get to work!

>>2514399
eudiamonia

>>2517826
>Don't know why it insists on sideways
4chan helpfully strips EXIF data so you are less likely to dox yourself. Rotation data is stored in the EXIF.

>>2517854
>4chan helpfully strips EXIF data so you are less likely to dox yourself. Rotation data is stored in the EXIF.

some other sites do the same thing. BUT THEIR DEVS, WHO ARE PAID. GET THE ROTATION DATA BEFORE THROWING IT AWAY.

What is the best way to join 2 pieces of wood end-to-end. Lets say you have two pieces 2" x 6" x 4 feet and are trying to make it a single 8 foot long piece.

>>2517876
Traditional Japanese joinery has some beautiful methods for that, but it might not be appropriate to your application. What's the context?

>>2517882
This is for a mantle/shelf that is 8 feet in length. Joint needs to look nice as it is on the front of the mantle. Might hold about 50 pounds or so

>>2517889
Ah, ok. Yeah, definitely give the traditional Japanese joints a look. You can see a bunch of examples by googling it and pick something out that'll look nice and (hopefully) not be too much of a pain to put together. You'll probably have to modify it to match your dimensions, and maybe rule out a few, since most of those joints are for a more square cross-section.
If you're looking for something simpler, perhaps a longish lap joint (maybe double lap?) would do it, maybe with a tusked wedge if you want to show off the joint.

what was the story behind that image with a bunch of people falling off a wooden bridge thing and someone blaming /diy/ for recommending a faulty dovel joint or something

>>2517897
think ill go with a large lap joint. Seems strong enough and by far the simplest

>>2517826
Keep your phone upright while taking picture and you’re fine

>>2517811
Very nice, it has this cozy Austrian winter cottage vibe.

>>2517816
Curvy things look good but those joints look kinda… useless I guess?

>>2517935
Fair enough. Make sure to post pictures when you're done!

>walnut costs $20 per board foot

I've been spending a couple weeks now browsing desks and I've been either incredibly disappointed or incredibly shocked at the price. Didn't take me long to realize that I could just go to Home Depot, get a butchers block countertop, stick it on some legs, and call it a desk.


Is this a good idea? I need a long l shaped desk so I'm getting 2 slabs. Should I be doing this with another type of wood?

>>2518076
Instead of despoiling suck a nice block with attached legs you could look at cragslist or a recycling station for a table or something with an appropriate metal frame/legs to support it.

I went that route with my tables and desks and have found it incredibly useful being able to switch things around/put something in temporary storage in the garage while I use the top for something else for a while/etc.

>>2518089
And atm my desk is a glass plate sitting on top of two nice aquarium stands with space inside to store things.

Looks nice, is very practical, and you can get all 3 parts free or very cheap on craigslist.

>>2517955
Fingerbox joints are purely aesthetic.

The column itself has no glue or fasteners, just held by friction. I did a test fit and once I got it into the box deep enough, well... there really wasn't any going back. Have a cross sectional view of the innards.

>>2518197
Of course, some details changed during implementation because of my lack of skill. Going from 1 tenon per curving piece to 1 tenon per set of 3, for example.

I don't think I'm going to get so elaborate in my designs again. It was really a royal pain to make so many parts with so many joints.

shill me a good quality corded 7.25" circular saw

>>2518254
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-12-Amp-Corded-7-1-4-inch-Circular-Saw-with-Steel-Plate-Shoe-Adjustable-Bevel-Blade-Rip-Fence/948470013?athbdg=L1100

>>2518197
btw, that sliding dovetail joint is 100% useless in that application.
Table wouldve been fine with a simple glue joint or dowels to the apron, or anything else really.
complete wasted effort and fuckup potential

>>2518407
It's a stronger joint than edge to surface, and the cut out in the skirt is meant to capture the arms with friction so the top can move laterally but not vertically. I agree that the dovetail has a lot of fuckup potential, but I'm not sure that a plain edge to surface glue up is sufficient. I'm still a novice at this, so it's quite possible that I completely overdid it. I'm not even sure that the arms were necessary to begin with, other than going off a feeling. How do you analyze these things in design?

>>2518425
I dont want to come off as a dick, i like the table. just a friendly meant hint
>How do you analyze these things in design?
me? i watch old pieces and restaurateurs on fixing old stuff and of course vintage literature. for lumber furniture there is nothing new under the sun!

Little history lesson.
The sliding dovetail was mainly used as butt joint for carcasses and shelfs racks. relatative quick, really sturdy, no glue, no drying time! and thus dismountable -> nearly all big old furniture was build with that in mind.
"relative" as in quicker than building the carcass out of a million handcut dovetails with a day forced waiting.
The second application often seen even today is as a cross bar for tabletops or stools. it prevents warping and provides a simple way of mounting to the apron, was often done with wooden nails without glue for ease of transportation.

afaik long to long grain same direction as on your table isnt not a historical application. if for example the wood swells in humid summer and without climate control (both board getting wider), the dovetail could come loose.

>>2515879
back pain by just looking at that

>>2518436
Thanks for the history lesson. I hadn't considered how expansion would affect the dovetail itself, but since the woods are the same, shouldn't it be mostly equal?

>>2518561
Shit, I just remembered that the rotation means that there's a difference in rate of expansion. Well, at least I live in an area with relatively constant humidity throughout the year (Houston).

Can I cut a 2x4 into a 1x4 on a table saw?

>>2518592
Yes but I almost cut my hand off doing it

>>2518592
You can but it's kind of wasteful and a bit dangerous. It's better to resaw with a good bandsaw.

>>2518561
Board will grow more in width than thickness and almost zero in length

>>2518561
Sliding dovetails are generally one of the best joints for combating expansion and contraction of the wood. I would say your use is a good one and historically speaking would be the joint of choice here in better quality furniture since other methods either rely solely on glue or shift any stresses onto a few small points (screws/dowels/etc).
>>2518777
No, wood it will show a greater percentage of change in dimension across the grain, has nothing to do with width or thickness. Flatsawn wood can absolutely show greater change in thickness than width, you need to look at the actual dimensions of the wood and the grain.

>>2518067
so thats like 40k for a cubic foot whoa

>>2519587
How the fuck did you arrive at that conclusion?

>>2520043
isn't board foot just cubic inches

>>2520130
oh wait it's 144 cubic inches so it's around 240
hard to keep track of arbitrary units of measurement

>>2514429
>slut's
slut's what?

>Estate sale
>Lots of wood
>Get there early
>cargo containers filled with wood
>2 old guys are hauling stuff out and glaring at anyone who gets near
>"We got all the stuff in the back!"
>old guy number 2 gets a call, answers
>"Hey. Get your truck over here. I got us a honey hole"

I guess there was tons of high quality wood in the back including African hardwoods, purple stuff, etc.

The way he said honey hole was just like picrel lol.

I got a bunch of 4/4 rough cut oak for wife's new garden beds. I feel a bit stupid using oak for em, but it was cheaper than me buying pine at HD or whatever.

>>2520591
forgot rest of my post. Think I can sell the offcuts of this stuff on CL or something? I don't really need it and not going to throw it away. lots of 4/4 oak 8 inches wide, 2-3 feet long.

>>2520591
>rough cut oak for garden beds
What a fucking waste

>>2520775
Better than letting boomers have it imo

>>2515247
a brace and bit with a screw driver bit, you can put a surprising amount of torque into a screw with one of those

>>2515299
did you hear about the house the lesbians built?
it went up lickety-split, all tongue in groove. not a stud in sight

>>2515386
it's all about that professional hand finish

>>2516362
get a fine tooth hand saw and some pre-profiled molding from your local place, cut 45s in the corners, glue and maybe spline together, stick some scrap wood round the back to keep the glass or whatever inside

>>2517237
look for a scroll saw or a cheapish bandsaw, use it to rough out the body and finish with rasps and files

>>2517889
i'm no expert and i expect you won't be able to get a sturdy 8 foot board from your 2 4 foot boards.
look into how to do a scarf joint.
QRD is you taper both ends and glue together so you're gluing face grain rather than end grain

>>2520775
what would you do with it?

>>2520860
How much oak are we talking?

>>2520861
enough to build 4 garden beds that are 6'x4'x18"

>>2520860
Turn it into furniture. Bookshelf, coffee table, end table, night stand, cabinet, bench, or something else. There's plenty of choices. Anything where you're keeping it inside and not using it for ground contact. Cedar is a lot better for that role.

I realized today that I can use my table saw as a thickness planer.

>>2520950
Significantly smaller width for a single pass.

>>2520809
Hay-o!

>>2514409
That’s an excellent saw. Cheap, basic & real reliable

>>2520813
That's gonna look like shit, anon. Without a 45° shooting board you don't stand a snowball's chance in hell of getting a good fit.

>>2521248
It is not difficult to do freehand with just a saw. Cut them as well as you can, clamp them down at a perfect 90 with the joints as tight as they can be then run the saw down the gap. You can also pare with a good sharp chisel to get the final fit which is what I prefer for most woods. But it is not that hard to get perfect cuts freehand, just takes some practice with a bit of scrap. People regularly do other sorts of joints and get great fits freehand but for some reason butt joints are believed difficult despite being just one cut. Dovetails in 18" wide boards for casework with their dozens of individual cuts, no problem; butt joint, IMPOSSIBLE!

If you really want a jig for cleaning this sort of work up than the miter jack is the better solution. A hand screw makes an alright improvised miter jack, a little fiddly to get both jaws lined up perfect but not so bad, snug it up and then tap them to perfection with a small hammer or scrap of wood, tighten it up fully then clamp it down and go at it with chisel or plane.

>>2521282
Even with my Veritas 14 TPI crosscut backsaw in a regular hardwood like euro beech the finish isn't what I would consider acceptable for mitered butt joint. Paring it back with a chisel is also an acceptable option. Either way I'm just of the opinion that it needs to be cut flush with a sharp blade. The cut is easy. The visually smooth transition at 45° on moldings isn't.

>>2521533
>Even with my Veritas 14 TPI crosscut backsaw
The Veritas is about as poor as it can get for such cuts, excessively thin plate and too much set, generally a finely set rip tooth would be better for this. But you should be able to do it, if the cut is rough that means you are putting to much pressure, the saw is binding slightly or you are wobbling a bit side to side. If the cut is smooth at one or both ends and rough in the middle that means binding or too much pressure (with a plate so thin almost any pressure is too much), if the roughness is even across the length that means you are wobbling.

The trend in making blades as thin as possible is not as great as the marketing makes it out to be, the blade will distort too easily. Find yourself an old back saw from before the thin plate came into vogue, file it rip, put in some set and then stone out almost all of the set and you will get wonderfully smooth miters in hardwoods. Stoning out the set instead of putting in very little set will give just enough fleam (functionally the same as fleam but not really fleam) on the outside of the tooth to give a smooth cut in even many softwoods. The old saws were not thicker because they could not make thin plates, they were thicker because it made it easier to get a smooth cut, the old guys knew what they were doing, sure it cut a tiny bit slower but it meant little to no fine tuning after the cut. Ultimately, such thin plates only benefit you when cutting dovetails, everywhere else it makes things more difficult.

With my old Spear and Jackson or Marples backsaws I can cut wonderfully smooth miters all day long in beech, I can manage it with my LN saws but I have to go slower and it would be a chore with the cross cut carcass saw of theirs I have, blade is too flexible and it is thicker than the Veritas.

>>2521575
Thin yes, flexible not really, but aggressively set? We are not talking about the same saw. I can appreciate that it's probably not the best saw for that technique, and it is 2-3 times cheaper than the LN here where for some reason all good old saws have been lost to time, but I've never had a problem getting smooth cuts with it. Maybe I've just gotten so used to shooting everything that if it isn't reflective it's not good enough.

>>2521621
We are talking about the same saw. I did not say it was aggressively set, just that it is overset for miters which need little set. Any saw which works well for crosscutting will be overset (but still doable) for miters. It does flex but we are not talking flexing to the point where you see the blade bend or the cut curves, just a slight bend which can only be seen in the marks left by the tool, you can't avoid this and it is a fact of life. You can hear this flexing in many saws, if the blade rings during the cut it is because the blade is flexing fast enough to be vibrating and sound a note, especially noticeable when a saw is getting dull. Back saws generally will not ring like this since only ~50% of the blade can flex and that unflexing portion and the spine prevent the flexing from progressing to vibrating. Grab the toe, wiggle it side to side, see it move.

Traded a can of chew for this scroll saw. What have you guys made with yours? Thanks!

>>2522023
Made a skull similar to pic which was then covered with a thin layer of polymer clay and painted. It was then bolted to a base and made into a trophy for a Halloween costume contest. The costumes were all DIY. The guy who won it had made a cockroach costume and crawled onstage to receive it.

You can get scrollsaw magazine pdfs if you look around online. The physical magazines often have fullsized patterns you pull out of the magazine and use.

I really like mine, not too noisy and much safer to use than some woodworking equipment.

>>2522280
The skull had a handsaw, also made with the scrollsaw, imbedded in it.

Is it ridiculous to spend this much on a sawstop? This is one hell of a saw.

>>2522306
peak meme

>>2522280
Thank you very much for that comment, you did a great job. I'll be looking around for these patterns.

>>2522306
It does tend to save fingers.

One drawback is that sometimes the brake is activated by power surges and resetting it costs money.

>>2522321
You can only get a few basic blades at the big box stores, shop online and there are tons of different blades for wood, metal, and plastic. They also sell them in bulk, much cheaper.

Make sure you stand exactly lined up with the blade and your cuts will be better.

>>2522321
I haven't done this yet, but I like the idea.

>>2522023
Correct tension is when it makes a C note when you pluck it with your fingernail.

google kennethstand.pdf for a diy stand to mount it on.

(folding book stand.)

>>2522306
Yeah
>>2522289
Now that's based
>>2522336
Thanks for the tips, my dad told me to buy spiral blades for it. Have you used that?
>>2522343
Nice!
>>2522353
That looks great. Thanks for the tips!

>>2522306
Ah SawStop. Glorious patent trolls. Invented by a lawyer. Tries to force their patent into every table saw by law and successfully gets competitors removed from the market. SawStop - safety our way, or fuck you.

>>2522023
there is a pdf named 'Shop tested Scrollsaw techniques and projects'

at www.cro-wood.com/

along with a ton of other woody stuff.

>>2522359
Yeah, he's a big time dickhead. But the product is good, albeit overpriced. I might just wait for the patent to expire

>>2522356
No but I dislike them, they make a wider kerf and can't do as delicate work as flat blades can.

there are also blades for ceramic and shells.

>>2522378 oops
I don't dislike them.

>>2522378
Thanks , really good to know. I'll keep my flat blade but pick up some spirals for now
>>2522370
Exactly what I'm looking for. Cheers! /diy/ is the best board on this website...

Is there even a point to using anything but cheap pine when you can just stain it to look like a different wood? It's not like 90% of modern people know the difference...

>>2522389
It is not strong enough for all purposes, it rots too fast for some purposes, it is too soft for some purposes, etc.

>>2522395
>heeheehee... good goy... you can't build a deck out of discarded pine woodpallets it's unsafe... you need to use premium walnut

>>2522306
for that money you can buy a large entry level european made panel saw, that doesnt rely on jigs and miter slots
not even chinkshit ffs

>>2522395
Pine has great durability and strength, you are likely thinking of spruce which is often mixed in with the pines in construction grade lumber but even spruce holds up well to the elements. In North America the pines were one of the preferred woods for working boats back in the wood boat days, holds up to the water as well as cedar but could take a hell of a lot more abuse since it is no where near as soft but is not so heavy as to negatively affect how much fish the boat could carry.

>>2522389
by nature of having lots of eyes and resin it can be a bitch to work with.
as a soft wood, material properties depend even more on the growth conditions

>>2522374
>But the product is good, albeit overpriced.
The Bosch version was better because it didn't destroy the blade or require a replacement part after it activated.

>>2520942
well if you want to come by and swap me some cedar for my oak, I'm down. You are also welcome to the off cuts. From what I've read oak is great for outdoor furniture and garden beds.

>>2522552
Keep the oak, rough sawn oak of those dimensions is not particularly valuable. Cedar is actually quite poor for garden beds, its softness means it gets easily damaged which speeds rotting. Fir, southern yellow pine, white pine are all better than cedar for garden beds. If you wanted to make some money you could probably sell it for more than the alternatives will cost you.

Generally for garden beds you just go to the nearest mill and buy some low grade oak, fir, syp, maple, just about anything but poplar and its friends, dirt cheap, no need for the expense of drying something that will be perpetually wet.

>>2522403

this would be a no brainer but in canada that panel saw would be more than double the sawstop.

>>2522428
I agree that it seems better. I'm just going to wait out the patent

>>2522552
The offcuts of oak would go awfully well in my smoker

EVERYTHING I BUILD FUCKING WOBBLES!!!

>>2516049
try a bit brace. using your own weight really minimizes fatigue if you have a lot to do. i got mine at a thrift shop for $5

>>2523357
Are you sure your floor is actually level? Try using 3 points of contact instead of four. 3 points will define a plane, so it's impossible for that to wobble, unless your shit is flimsy and weak.

How do I fill empty space in a loose mortise and tenon joint?

>>2523381
epoxy

>>2523381
Just pin it with dowels after it’s glued up.

I almost lost my fingers today.

>>2516049
These sorts of drills are actually designed for steel and do a nice job of it with a quality twist bit. They are not quite as good for wood (and soft/non-ferrous metals) since the bits tend to advance too quickly for the low speed of the drill. For your regular hardwoods you can sharpen you bits as you would for brass or aluminum to give more of a scrapping action and they work quite nice. Standard twist bits work great with these and the really dense woods. They work well enough for soft woods as long as you do not care about a clean hole, brad points help but modern brad points tend to like a higher speed, they are not bad in softwood but fail with these low speeds in hardwoods for the most part.
>>2523381
Depends on if it is the cheeks or the ends*. For cheeks a shaving from a plane, makes it easy to get that really thin shim when you need it. For the ends I generally just do a blind wedge in the tenon if I fuck them up.

*not the literal end of the board, but the side which is not the cheek, my words are failing me at the moment and I can not seem to manage to dredge the proper word from memory...
>>2523514
Maybe next time froggy.

I found this monstrosity with an image search. The other tables they show are nicer. I can't decide if that website was created by a bot or the person that ran it through google translate has never been exposed to Latin script.

Regardless, here is the link, if you dare.

https://www.whomestudio.com/butcher-block-table-to-match-with-your-laminate-flooring.html/butcher-block-bistro-table


butcher block bistro table is likely to be along waited solution for simple living space. You can set the table the adorable space with your simple character.

Pictures of butcher block bistro table is created to be the inspiration of for you. This image was published on November 29, 2016 and published by https:whomestudio.com this is fall into the category Furniture, the size of image is 4320 x 2880 and this post has 22 related images. If you have any questions please Contact page. Hope it could inspire you, our beloved reader in https:whomestudio.com, back to article please click Butcher Block Table to Match with Your Laminate Flooring.

>>2523642
if it were pallet wood, people would cream themself

>>2523648
It's $40000 of construction lumber at current prices.

>>2523648
Only if you make it out of the superior grade palletwood, it is labeled 'MB', which stands for Most Best.

>>2522412
Just when I thought I couldn't love pine anymore than I do

>>2523648
woodworking newfag here, what is the meme about pallet wood? does it truly have no legitimate uses?

>>2523794
We got a pallet thread that discusses it, not the most obvious title

>>2514637

>>2523794
if youre set on dedicating a lot of time, sweat and effort into creating a unique piece, why the fuck would you be stingy on the most fundamental resource that dictate 99% of the look.
In Europe it is even worse. The Europallete is made from Spruce and fir that didnt make the cut for construction lumber

>>2523794
Bottom grade lumber like that used in pallets has uses. You can make nice enough things out of it but there's a lot of effort necessary to make pieces squared pieces. I use it to make storage boxes and jigs and such. For furniture making, which unfortunately is what people like to use it for, it's practically useless. Add to that that pallets have been abused and the wood is full of nail holes that have turned black from rust and it's worthless for anything you might want to look at.

>>2523801
>The Europallete is made from Spruce and fir that didnt make the cut for construction lumber

Didn't know that, are they raw or treated?

>>2523809
Raw, but you can usually buy it at the same lumberyard where you get your construction lumber. It's used for all sorts of temporary stuff like forms.

>>2523601
Word you're searching for is shoulder, the tenon's shoulders

>>2516849
This makes my penis hard. How much did it cost to insulate this thing? Bought a 1950's house last year and need to redo the garage forsure.

>>2523813
No. If your head was a tenon your shoulders would be the shoulders of the tenon, they are what rest against the wood of the mating piece with its mortise and set how deep the tenon sits in the mortise/prevents the tenon from bottoming out in the mortise. I am not sure if it actually has a proper name, 12 hours later and sobered up and I still can not think of it or even having ever come across such a word.

Is it ok to glue two pieces of wood together if they aren't quite straight? I don't have the tools to actually flatten the wood but it has gaps and requires a decent amount of clamp pressure to stay together

>>2524181
The difference in thickness will probably get you in the end, that thinner walnut will not be able to resist the forces from the considerably thicker oak, either the glue joint will fail or the walnut will start splitting.

This sort of joint will eventually fail either at the wood or the glue even if the fit is good, which is why we generally fit the thinner board into a groove, takes the wood's movement out of the equation.

>>2524181
No.

>>2524185
>>2524186
I see. I don't really have any tools/skills for making a groove but if I used the outer wood to make a frame, what would be a simple way to securly set the inner wood piece into that frame?

>>2524190
You pretty much need the groove if you want it to last any amount of time. Have a maker space nearby? Community workshop? Friend with a workshop? If you are in school there is a fair chance there is a workshop there and it is generally not too difficult to get time in them or at least get some help from someone who has access to them.

>>2524198
No, unfortunately. There is a makerspace but it's focused on 3dprinting and that kind of thing. The people I know only really own drills and basic things like that.

If I'm a complete retard who's never even held a drill until recently, do you think I should just buy a chisel and attempt to do it by hand? I want to give this to someone for Christmas but I'm worried I won't make it.

>>2524200
>>2524198
to elaborate a bit more, would grooves along the shorter side pieces (1) coupled with screws at each corner (2) be enough if it's just going to hang on the wall?

>>2524205
The way to do it properly is to plow grooves into all 4 pieces and let the board sit unencumbered in all of them, since the board will expand and contract with humidity changes. Traditionally you would then join the pieces with tenons on the short sides and mortises on the long sides. Since the grooves would go all the way to the edge on the long sides you'd make the short side tenons the width of the groove and give them a haunch to cover up the ends.
The cheap way without buying a plow plane, tenon saw and mortise chisel is to buy a used router for $30 and some shitty bit about the width of your board, then make stopped grooves and just butt- or dowel joint the frame.

>>2524205
You could make the sides of the frame out of 3 pieces to form a groove.

I would assemble it with nails, they allow more movement than screws. Sink them and put plugs in if you don't like the appearance of nail heads.

>>2524241
>nails into end grain
That increased movement they allow will eventually cause it to fall apart.

>>2524243
If it is small and kept in a climate controlled environment, I don't think it will be a big problem, OP only has a few days.

Lots of traditional carpenters tool boxes were/are made with nails to allow the flexing.

>>2514409
Thinking of building one of these, but how do you get the tracks to line up flush with the saw?

is angle grinder useful for wood

>>2524301
Shims.

>>2524302
If you want to start a fire, yes.

>>2524293
The point is that increased movement and end grain is not a good thing, nails have very little holding power into end grain. The old carpenter totes and the like were not meant for longevity, They were disposable items knocked together quickly, they were made for carrying the necessary tools to a job site, if the needed tools for a job don't fit well into any of your current totes then knock a new one together. When one starts failing, toss it in the burn barrel and replace it when needed.

That tote has no risk of flexing unless it is filled with lead and only the drawer front is nailed into end grain, which will eventually pull out most likely. Bottom might be nailed into end grain, which is not a good thing. My preferred tote construction is bottom rabbeted into the ends, sides nailed on and flared slightly to help support the bottom. It is how great grandpa taught me, he was a finish carpenter of the old kind.

>>2524302
They do make wood sculpting blades for angle grinders. They scare the fuck out of me, the way they can grab the wood is not pleasant. Have one somewhere, bought it just to try out and see if it was useful for hogging away wood quickly, you put it into the wood a tiny bit to deep or it catches a defect in the wood and the grinder will go where ever it pleases.

I have used a wire cup (normal not knotted) in an angle grinder to clean up some salvaged wood, worked well, unlike wood working tools it does not care about hidden nails and it shines their heads up nicely which makes them easy to see. Flap disc worked better but they can eat through a nail head surprisingly quickly which just makes them a pain to see and pull. Knotted cup was too aggressive and tended to dig into the wood and try to rip your arms off.

>>2524318
I totally agree with you, but I think >>2524181 poster's project would be ok with mediocre joinery techniques. He is short on time, tools, and experience.

Me again, thanks for all the advice but, after thinking about it, I'm just going to go with a simpler design. It doesn't really matter if it's not a perfect fit so this should allow me to make something that doesn't fall apart even if it's kind of janky and has gaps. I'm basically repurposing an old shelf door as a coat rack but I wanted to add something to it so that' it's not literally just a shelf door.

It's the last two weeks before christmas, I have all sorts of requests for builds, I'm trying to rush everything, and I am forced to accept that glue just doesn't want to cure very well at low temperatures. I'm also using spray polyurethane just to speed things up. It's a little under 50 degrees in my garage so its dicey.

It pains me so to drive a screw through joinery but I'm doing it to make these batched out softball trophy shelves for a little league team. It's just simple lap joints but as heavy as these are (I'm making them from the cut off ends of oak table slabs, so they're an end grain abomination) maybe it isn't a bad idea. I wasnt getting the best adhesion from end grain on end grain anyway.

I havent put shelves inside this frame yet but I expect them to weigh over 50 lbs or so when finished. They are essentially being made on a budget of fucking nothing because I'm trying to use up this pallet of table end cut offs, so nothing about the design is my first choice.

I've got a panel of 24x18 acrylic as well and I'm going to try and diamond drag engrave it and use it to edge light the shelves. It's just a test to see if I can do it without wanting to pull my hair out, so we'll see. The acrylic will sit in the interior and be suspended from the backer by a quarter inch standoff. That's the plan anyway. I have to figure out a way to make reaching the LED battery pack easy and accessible as well. I'm thinking a housing secured by magnets. Each shelf will have a "relief cut" on the backside to allow the acrylic to pass under it... or at least that's my idea. I think it will work, but I've never seen edge lit acrylic incorporated into something else for accent lighting.

But yeah, I'm using a lot of screws and pocket screws in ways I normally wouldnt because of the cold weather.

>>2522560
>Generally for garden beds you just go to the nearest mill and buy some low grade oak, fir, syp, maple, just about anything but poplar and its friends,

Thanks, that is great advice. hopefully I won't have to build another one for 10-15 years, but who knows. Next time I will definitely do that. What would I ask for anyway? like what is the wet crap wood called.

>>2523642
bot board. I don't know if those things are supposed to drive SEO links, or actually get a sale, or just a way of parking domains. They do surprisingly well showing up on SEO, so I think that is the point.

>>2523662
>>2523662
Sorty to recorrect you sir but it is latin for Molto Bene or "most best" quality

>>2524898
custom hooks?

>>2525313
hey, finally. a good use for chinesium wrenches! And you can bend them by hand.

>>2525703
sometimes
i've had to put a torch to them so they don't snap though

Is a post-and-beam shed a decent first project or is it too advanced for a newbie?
I just need a place to throw my animal feed and garden tools. Preferably dirt-bottom rather than cement.

My only tools are a handsaw, big clamp, and a power drill.

>>2526070
Are you planing on using brackets or cutting the joints? With brackets there is no real advantage over stick building and like stick building the strength is in the skin. Without brackets and cutting the joints puts the strength in the frame. Either way works and is doable for most anyone, you will want more tools for anything but stick building.

Personally I would not bother with anything but stick built for such a shed unless I had good reason, sort of job I would rather just get done and a stick built shed can be framed and sheathed in a day without much effort.

>>2526070
Make a pole barn, they are easier for one person to make, takes less wood, and has a nice free dirt floor.

https://www.milmarpolebuildings.com/pole-barn-terms-explained-part-1/

There are many different terms when it comes to building. Here is the breakdown of the basic terms you will hear when looking into building a pole barn.

On Center (O.C)

On Center is how far apart the lumber is spaced. For example, we space the posts 8 feet from the middle of one post to the middle of the next post.
Gable

Gable is the sides of building where you can see the peak of the roofline going upwards.
Eave

Eave is the sides where gutters are installed for water run-off, where you would install gutters.
Trusses

Trusses are the support system of of the roof and provide the interior ceiling. They are customized to support your pole barn. The centers come in 2, 4, or 8 ft, depending on the ceiling load. Trusses come in many shapes, but mainly these two:

Standard – has a flat bottom which allows for a flat ceiling

Scissor- crossed beams provide a vaulted ceiling. This gives you more head room or space for a loft if extra height is needed.
Overhang

This is how much roof is hanging past the walls on the ends and sides of the building. Overhang will typically be 12 to 24 inches.
Purlins

Purlins are the pieces of lumber on the roof that provide structure and where the metal panels are attached.
Girts

The girts are similar to the purlins in that they are 2x4s placed 24 inches on center, but on the walls instead of the roof. Girts also provide wall support.
Girder

The top support pieces are known as girders. Beam sizes will typically be 2×10 or 2×12.
Bottom Wall Girt- Skirt Board- Splash Board-Grade Board

There are several different names for the piece that sits on ground level. It is treated wood because it is in contact with the ground.

>>2526330
Maybe it’s just my south Florida experience but 24 on center is way outdated it’s been 16 on center forever , nothing wrong with either way just curious why it’s different ¿ besides obviously using less material

>>2526330
Scissor truss reduces space for a loft, hence its increasing headroom.

>>2523852
6k but it was done by a company that my old friend from high school now does estimates for
Other estimates I got were in the 10k+ range, I will say that now that we are in winter it's working exceptionally well and it brushed off the summer heat like nothing.
Although I'm now hearing spray insulation may have long term VOC emitting issues, whether closed cell has this problem I'm unsure

i want to make a stitching pony like below. i dont have a bandsaw and my budget is fucked for the time being so I can't get a new one. What's a good way to make something like picrel with: Shitty Miter Saw, Drill Press, Drill, Dremel

>>2526613
also i tried earlier today, trying to skip the nice curve and just have 30 degree cut blocks, but my miter saw is fucked. Grandpa must have bent the shit out of the angle guide because none of my fucking cuts are straight. Shit is from the 70s or maybe even 60s.

>>2526614
Get a coping saw, develop patience. Also try to practice on scrap wood first. You will not get curves from a miter saw.

>>2526613
I would try to bend it after steaming. Or buy a set of wood file.

>>2526613
Use 1x2" stock, layout the curve on the 2" side, cut with a coping saw and refine/cliean the curve with sandpaper/rasp/file, repeat. Glue up how ever many needed to get the desired width. You don't want to go any thicker than 1" stock with a coping saw, their 6" blade is fairly limited and their low tension makes it even worse.

>>2526696
As a side note, I would dump the screw tightening, slow and futzy, I would do a cam. You can make one from wood, just do a search for cam clamp plans, should clue you in on how to make it, just run a dowel through where the screw goes, affix on end and make a cam lever for the other end. For affixing the other end I would probable just use a good fine grained hard wood about 2x2" and long enough to go all the way through, cut a long tenon on all but ~1" of it, drill a hole through the narrow end for the cam and a hole through the stitching pony for the tenon. Slide it through and pin the cam on the end. Nice and easy quick tighten and release.

You could also use a long bolt, use one that is not threaded the full length, cut the head off, file a couple flats on that last inch or so of the unthreaded portion and drill a hole through for the cam. Other end gets a big washer and wing nut, this will give some adjustability for various thicknesses of leather but the all wood cam would probably work just fine.

I suppose the stupid simple way is a bike wheel quick release skewer, but you would have to find one that is threaded its full length (not common) or thread it yourself, even the shortest skewer would be too long.

I got real lazy in the design for this. I mostly like how it turned out, but I wish I had made the arms just a few inches taller. Maple, mineral oil and beeswax for finish.

Some points I learned on this - 8/4 S2S1E stock can be a fucking bitch to work with internal stresses. I hate doing butcher blocks, super hard to keep perfect alignment even after jointing and planing. I'd say that it's likely due to not letting the wood acclimate inside long enough before jointing and planing it, but maybe I just fucking suck at squaring up stock. I definitely prefer working with S4S stock, even if I have to touch up the jointing/planing to remove re-developed bow/twist.

The worst part of woodworking is introducing metal hardware. Even though I predrill my holes, I've snapped and bent so many threaded fasteners it's embarassing. No clue what I'm doing so fucking wrong. Do you have to size the hole a fucking micron smaller than the OD of the fastener or something? Is the stuff I buy at the hardware store just that shitty?

I’m just getting into woodwork and it might be my new hobby desu

best table saw for poors and beginners???

>>2526760
Don't get chincy on a table saw. Save up and cope until you can afford a decent one.

Finished a trophy shelf for a coworker's daughter's christmas present. They're nuts for softball. I hope the dowel spacing fits those silly trophy rings they hand out, the only reference for size and spacing I had was a softball...

I guess Stick is her nickname.

I'm mostly happy with how it came out but I just made it from scrap, and the sides are end grain cutoffs from oak table tops. I literally can't put a screw in them without hearing the sounds of cracking, and I didn't plan ahead for joinery so the shelves are just attached by glue and some brads from the rear. I'm pretty sure it will be fine...

If I do this design again, I'll key the shelves into rabbets, buy standoffs for the acrylic instead of winging it by cutting standoffs out of scrap acrylic, and I'll consider just making the whole backer out of acrylic instead of wood. If I did that and attached some standoffs to the rear, it would also light up a room pretty well from the edge illumination.

This was a rush job with no guidance other than to style it after a softball base so I was winging it as I went.

If I made this project for someone on commission I'm not sure what a fair price would be. I have a lot of time in this one, but that's mainly due to experimenting in acrylic and trying and rejecting a lot of designs along the way.

>>2526798
any brands I should go for or stay away from?

what's the best finish for an axe handle? I got a really nice one and was thinking 1/3 turp 1/3 pine tar and 1/3 linseed oil

>>2526838
i just use boiled linseed oil. it's easy, wipe it on, wipe it off until it feels good.
i also use clay to make a dam around the eye and let it soak up oil until it won't take any more

>>2526838
What ever is handy. Putting some lotion/balm/fat on your hands for the winter chapping, give the handle a coat as well. Giving your boots some mink oil or saddle soap, rub some in. Doing some grilling and got the olive oil out there by the wood pile, rub some in. Anything with fat/oil/wax in it will do. The secret to the old great finish old tools have is regular coats of things which don't dry but do absorb in well.

I would avoid the pine tar, it seeps out and gets sticky which attracts filth which is not so good for an axe handle, it will eat your hands when it is sticky and will be difficult to hold onto when that stickiness gets it coated in filth. It is a tool handle, don't over think it.

>>2526760
I really like my compact DeWalt, it does a ton of work for 50lbs. I have to store it in a closet, so I didn't get the 10 inch one, which
I would have preferred. I got it from the local big blue box store, that way I had a local warranty and could return it easily if there was a problem.
A used version in good shape would probably cut the cost in half, but you will have to hunt one down.

>>2514471
That is truly the best thing to have in a shop.

Totally underrated post, it makes me laugh every time I see it. Should have commented earlier.

>>2522280
>>2522353
>>2522343
Ordered this up, can't wait to make em

>>2522280
this would be cool if you got even thinner layers and sanded them round a little more

>>2515877
>Nissan
Typical, only an Asian bugman would find this appealing

>>2527127
Excellent!

Research the best wood to use.

Please post results!

>>2527517
Thank you, I sure will! I plan to practice on plywood I have kicking around, until I learn the saw.

Do I need to use pressure-treated wood for posts? Or can I just paint lumber with paint+primer and call it a day?

>>2527623
Yes.
Some wood, like black locust, makes good posts even untreated - but only where they grow. Take them to Florida and they rot in 2 years.

I have read that painting a post is worse than putting it in bare. Moisture will slowly seep in and the paint will trap it so it doesn't dry out, making it rot faster. I have not extensively tested this, but I am inclined to believe it.

>>2527623
>Do I need to use pressure-treated wood for posts?
Yes. Don't cut the end you put in the ground. Put six inches of tamped gravel in the bottom of the hole as so water can drain away.

Threw together some benches and a tabletop for company coming tomorrow. Sawdust is from making a garage door panel for a friend.

>>2514399
>shop in the top floor
what the fuck

>>2527799
Looks good.

>>2527740

Wrong, built a fence with untreated fir and prepainted the posts including endgrain 5 years ago in the Pacific northwest so it's wet as fuck and it's still fine.

>>2527050
>cant dado
>blade isnt square with fence
>plate doesnt allow 45° cuts, forcing you to cut next to the abyss of hell
I regret having mine

>>2516034
>pine
You don't even need a hole for pine, you can just drive the screw in with a screwdriver.

>>2527860
Does it freeze where you live? That makes a huge difference on longevity.

I just picked up one of these bad boys on sale for $550. How’d I do?

>>2528175
That's a lot more expensive than I thought those machines were.

>>2528279
low angle is a meme for the long planes, only helps in a few situations and the rest of the time it is more a hindrance. There is good reason they failed when first introduce ages ago. Low angle is only an advantage in the small planes where high angle (60 degrees or more) makes for an awkward plane.

45 degrees with a chip breaker became the standard for a very good reason and going to 60 degrees or more for difficult grain is less of a headache then low angle which requires the mouth to be set perfect for a smooth finish and even then rarely gives as good as a finish as a high angle. Your standard jack or smooth will almost always give a better finish and when it wont you can just install the blade upside down to get a higher angle and that will give a better finish than a low angle in all but softwoods which do not take well to the scrapping action of a high angle.

>>2528298

Buddy, spending $200+ on a plane in the first place is a fucking meme and I have and love several veritas planes including that low angle one. I use it alongside the #4 and the dx60 block plane and I think they're all great.

You aren't wrong but if you're going for strict utility you could just buy old school planes. Even at current hipster-caused inflated prices they're still mostly affordable and if they aren't already perfect they're easily tuned.

I do like my low angle jack for larger end grain pieces. Other than that I just treat it as a large smoother, whereas I keep my #4 taking even smaller bites.

>>2528175

Not super great, I got the 735x for less under a year ago.

It's a good machine but go ahead and get a helical head. So much more useful at that point and with so much less upkeep.

I have a Sheartak in mine because it was in stock at the time. I have a byrd sheelix in my jointer and they both seem equally good quality.

>>2528333
>laughs in 3 phase

>>2528343

> $900 all in with a carbide head, DRO, and cheaply made roller stand and I can roll it into a corner vs that

But yeah, I have had times that would have been nice. The dewalt represents a good value for someone without 3 phase service that doesnt want to deal with a vfd or even limited 220 service and doesnt want to add more.

>>2528397
how do you like that carbide head?

Merry Snow Background Event, Anons.

Should the next thread have the same pic? If not, feel free to post something

>>2528333
The only difference between the 735 and the 735X are the infeed/outfeed tables which I got for $50. Other than that it’s literally the same machine.

>>2528402

I wouldnt want to own a planer or jointer without one ever again.

They barely need maintenance (I clean pitch off if I'm doing pine or construction lumber a lot), and they're tough as nails. I got mine about a year ago, and I've rotated exactly one cutter, and it probably didn't need it. The machine is a little quieter under load, which is whatever, but the quality of the finish is around 120ish grit or a little worse, so depending on what you're doing, you can very easily get away with sanding only to 150 or 180, like with hard wax oils or whatever.

I get less tearout than even with hand planes (you may still need to scrape some especially tearout prone woods, around here tiger striped sapele with interlocking grain is common and inexpensive, and that stuff tears out like crazy with straight knife cutters or all but the lightest hand plane touch).

Initial cost may seem high but a set of blades is $40 or thereabouts, and if you hit some knots or a nail they're sometimes unrecoverable.

I can also plain perpendicular against the grain- not really recommended, as the finish will be abominable, but sometimes you have to thickness plane a part- and if you do that with straight knives, you get long ribbons that will jam the blower and choke a dust collector to death. With carbide cutters you get little chips that are so much more easily managed and will not stop your dust collector.

They are in the intermediate term a money saver and worth getting out the gate if you can swing it. If you get the smaller diameter head installation is slightly easier but you are restricted in cut depth. I honestly don't think that is a big deal at all (I've popped 20A breakers with the dewalt with full size heads, never with the smaller) and I'm always doing lots of small passes rather than big anyway. If you want to take off a quarter inch a pass, get a three phase machine...

>>2528427

I'm aware, my point was the overall cost was even lower than was immediately apparent.

I think the x also came with an extra set of blades (worth about $40) but yours might have that too.

>>2528430
Well I’m not poor so idgaf

>>2528429
I considered getting a carbide insert head, but the sales manager convinced me to get a tersa head instead. I got to say Im super fucking happy with it. I can change the blades in about 5 minutes. Not that I change them all that much. The cut quality is very good.

I do mostly plywood stuff anyways so I really dont use the planer or jointer too often.

>>2528451

> how did I do paying this price anons
> not so hot, it was much cheaper for the fully optioned model this year
> well I don't care, I'm not poor

Ok

Do places like Home Depot sell hardwood that is at least 16 inches wide? I know zero about woodworking but I want to build a little dolly like pic related, except with non-shit wood and non-shit casters.

What would you say is the difference between wooden musical instruments produced in a factory versus 'handmade'?
Are workshops essentially just factories on a smaller scale in terms of the instrument making process?
I'm thinking about instruments like the lute, oud, violin and acoustic guitars

>>2528586
You can get red oak (good) and poplar (cheap and weak, probably not the best for a dolly) at home depot and lowe's in 1x4 and 1x6 (and occasionally a wider), in 4'-8' long boards (occasionally longer). You should try to find a good lumber yard to buy from instead, since they'll have a wider variety of woods (e.g. white oak, maple, mahogany) at a better price, at a higher quality.

>>2528590
i dont have a table saw or anything so would it be impossible to join the boards together? I read you have to straighten the edges of boards before gluing them together

>>2528589
for violins / cellos, the difference in quality is not so much the sound quality. The big difference is how easy it is to play. A higher-quality instrument is much easier to play in terms of how it feels for your hands and how easily it "sings." Crappy instruments require a lot more effort out of your hands to make it sound good, really good instruments are easy to play in tune, easily to get nice reveb'd sound out of without over-doing the vibrato.

you often hear this described as really good instruments are easy to make "sing", crappy cheap instruments are more difficult. Chinese violins / cellos had a bad reputation for many years but they've largely caught up to european stuff in the <$5000 range.

>>2528590
alternatively, what if i just bought a little butcher block top and used that? waste of money?

>>2528586
Use steel instead if you wish it to be much stronger. Drill and bolt it if you've no welder (it can be welded later if ever desired but I bolt on casters for future replacement if I bash one.). Use flanged lock nuts, not plain nuts with washers. Bonus of that method besides strength is future reconfigurability.

Use angle facing up and if you want a floor wood or anything else will drop in. I've a very bad back and make many dollies and carts. Good ones last a lifetime and the effort is the same. A hand hacksaw with a sharp blade will do if poor, an angle grinder (6" preferred for the larger cutting discs) is better.

>>2528586

Buy a hardwood dolly from harbor freight. Why do you even need to join the boards? And buying a 16" piece of solid oak for a dolly lol. You're ignorant and way over your head, build a bird house first out of shit wood.

>>2528599

Lowes and homey d will sell you dimensioned lumber. Normally the "nicest" thing they have is red oak. It will probably be pretty flat and straight, maybe not straight off a planer flat, but pretty good. All boards move with moisture, temp, and acclimatization so it isn't reasonable to expect a board not prepared on site to be perfect.

But it will probably be good enough for a glue up.

That said, a decent hardwood lumber vendor will dimension rough cut lumber for you on site for far less. For reference, my local lowes has a red oak board at $51 for an 0.75"x5.5"x8' board. That is 2.75 board feet, for $18.5 per bd/ft.

My local hardwood vendor is $3.45 for select (nicer) grade red oak per board foot, and they will s4s (joint, straight edge, and plane both sides for $0.40 per bdft, and I think I've seen them do it for free when business was slow. So, somewhere between a quarter and a fifth of the price per board foot.

So if you have a good hardwood store near you, go to them. Your prices may not be the same, but they will beat the big boxes.

>>2528602
I would have thought the factory made instruments would be easier to play since they're the ones used by students typically?
Anyway I was more interested in the process rather than the qualities of the instrument exactly, I know that's my fault in how I worded my question
Are there factory made violins made in Europe in the $5000 range or is that reaching workshop prices?
I don't know anything about instrument making but from what I imagine the individual luthier is going to be working on each component by himself whereas the workshop/factory made instrument is going to have a division of labour with dozens of craftsmen
Based on my limited knowledge of woodworking the factory/workshop process seems like it'd lead to more precise parts?
The only factors I can think of against the factory process is that perhaps the parts need to be altered due to the conditions of the wood (although standardised factory conditions could alleviate this) and also since time spent on the instrument = money and the market condition means that factory made instruments with similar time spent on them is not viable?
Sorry for the ramble, I hope you can understand what I'm asking

>>2528589
Factories work towards an average, small shops work to the individual qualities.

In a factory they just say each part is such and such dimension and call it good, this results in most instrument falling into an acceptable range for the quality they are targeting with a certain number of each batch going to the extremes of either complete garbage or amazing. In the small shop they try and get the most out of each bit of wood, the best possible instrument for the given materials and the luthiers skill, the dimensions of any given part of the instrument will be worked to a mechanical property instead of a physical dimension. So for a soundboard they will have a range of stiffness and weight which they will work towards and not care if it ends up thicker than expected as long as at it falls into that range for stiffness and weight.

Essentially it means the small shop is more consistent, they have few if any instruments which go to those extremes and when they do get such an instrument it is priced accordingly instead of being priced at its model's price.
>>2528613
Ease of playing is generally a setup issue. Unless you buy direct from the maker and that maker sets up the instrument for you then it will need to be setup when initially bought to suit your style. Playability is a personal thing and a balancing act, higher action increases dynamic range, you can pluck the string harder without it hitting the fret board, but it also means it is harder to fret. If you are playing a piece which requires a large dynamic range than a low action may make it easier to fret but more difficult to achieve that dynamic range.

>>2528602
>The big difference is how easy it is to play.

(Disclaimer: I don't actually "play" any string instrument yet.)

I don't really believe this. Musical instruments, in general, are very subjective. Worse, a lot of them (and violins might be the worst here) seem to be subject to this weird elitist attitude. I'm pretty sure the playability (in the most basic sense) is going to be much more dictated by specific design decisions than overall "quality".

Case in point: I bought literally the cheapest viola I could find on eBay. It was under $40, including shipping, bow, case, and some dirty rosin. I got it mostly as a comparison to an experimental instrument I was/am working on. It's perfectly playable. It doesn't sound all that great, even ignoring my poor playing, but it's not difficult to get a solid note out of. There are things that could be slightly better on that front, but nothing that should really affect price. For example, the notches on the nut were way too shallow, the bridge was set too high, and the fine tuners were garbage. All fixable for little or no cost, but I didn't exactly expect much for $40 to begin with, so whatever. From what little I've seen, issues like this generally don't exist in even lower-end stuff (my sister's violin didn't have problems like this, and was under $200).

To the specific point that >>2528613 was asking (factory vs "handmade"), there should be literally no difference. There isn't, fundamentally, any difference between a factory and a "workshop". If you're doing production work in a workshop, the difference between the two is nebulous and vague in the first place. Regardless of whether you have something being assembled by a line of 20 people or one guy in a leather apron, the only thing that's going to make a difference (and this applies to literally everything ever made) is whether or not the one(s) making the instrument give a shit about the end product or are only in it for the paycheck.

>>2528298
You make it sound like such a chore but one of the things that makes the Veritas #62 clone so good is that it's piss easy to finely adjust the mouth because of the limit screw and if you're so inclined you can just buy another blade in a modern steel for not a whole lot of money and hone it to a different angle. It's honestly a joy to use, especially in hardwoods.

>>2528646
Not a chore, just futzy, like I said, you have to adjust the mouth for every bade adjustment. The lack of a chip breaker is a major drawback, there is more than just the angle and difficult grains will require a very high angle without a chip breaker which means you are scraping more than planing and working harder than need be since scraping can't take much of a bite and greatly increases resistance.

An adjustable mouth is not a viable replacement for a chip breaker, which is why the 62 failed when originally released.

>>2528657

You act like many styles of planes without chip breakers havent existed since forever. Lots of plane styles work, low angle jacks just happen to be trendy.

>>2528659
No I don't, said they only help in a few situations when it comes to the long planes and do worse than standard pitch in most situations. Historically low angle was saved for specialty planes where the low angle was actually an advantage, like shoulder and miter planers, not in general purpose bench planes where they offer little.

Anytime finish quality is important than a chip breaker is your friend. Only a few situations when the lack of a chip breaker will do a better job, end grain where low angle will do better and wild/interlocked grain where high angle (~70 degrees) will do better. Chip breakers became standard for bench planes for good reason.

>Building something in F360
>Should I do it parametrically?
>Nah it's just a teensy thing who cares
>Besides I got the location perfectly in my head!
>...
>Get back home
>Measure out the spot
>It wasn't 8x6', it was 6x8'
>All the dimensions need to shift around to make sure it's still facing where I want
>This would be really easy if I did it parametrically... But I didn't
>So it's probably easier to redo the whole model
Done in by my own laziness and stupidity

>>2528668
Yes, and the reason is that before circa WWII steel was an art more than a science and as a result there was wild variance in quality which means you needed to compensate for potentially poor edge retention for planes primarily used in heavy production work. With modern steels like A2, PM-V11 or Shiro-/Aogami #1/2 you can keep an absurdly sharp edge for a full day of work AND these planes aren't being used on production lines but for specialty pieces and by hobbyists.
If you want to do production flattening with hand tools then the most important compensatory feature isn't a chip breaker but a corrugated sole for the dramatic reduction in friction meaning you don't have to keep waxing the plane. For someone who makes few pieces of bespoke furniture it's not exactly a problem to run the blade over a strop twice a day or running a block of paraffin down the sole every now and again.
Different times, different design considerations.

>>2528586
>>2528605
Their dollies were good quality when I bought a bunch recently and they cost less than just buying 4 wheels elsewhere.

>>2528799
What possible reason could you ever have to not go parametric? Even a simple cube is better in parametric.

>>2528821
lol.

Corrugated soles also failed for good reason, wood soles have far less friction and the corrugated sole was an attempt to win over those who were dedicated to wooden planes, it failed just like every other attempt. Took the rise of portable power tools to kill the wooden plane and essentially kill the metal plane as well. But friction is not that big of a deal until the final pass when everything is essentially perfect and you are just removing the last of the tool marks, the rest of the time the variation in the wood's surface keeps friction low enough to not be an issue. Not to mention there is no reason to use a jack plane for the finishing pass, a finely set smooth plane will do the job just fine and even an infill smoother with all its weight will have less friction than a corrugated sole jack plane.

Up until WWII the primary market for steel planes was production/professionals, steel planes were too expensive for the guy who just needed something for the odd job about the house. Corrugated soles and low angle jack failed because the people who used these planes to make their living hated them.

Chip breaker is very important despite what you think, no matter how great the steel in your blade is or how corrugated the sole is it can not make up for the lack of a chip breaker, it is a specialty plane and very useful for when you need it but makes a poor general purpose plane.

Also, if you are in production you do not sharpen your blade, you just swap the blade out/switch planes and sharpen at the end of the day or let the shop boy/local sharpener take care of it. You are literally speaking out your ass and just making shit up.

>>2528853
Jesus Christ, did a Stanley #62 molest your daughter for you to heap this much irrational hate on it?

>>2528859
I have no issues with the 62, they are great planes for certain tasks, all I did was correct your bullshit. You are making shit up and hoping that your autism goes further than my knowledge, you will not win this one but if you are autistic enough you probably could wear me out and pretend you won.

>>2514409
25y and mines still going stronk

>>2528863
>the entire world is homogeneous and reflects my weird local history

>>2528853
>Chip breaker is very important
lol it is not
It is only useful on weird grain wood at the finishing passes. on all other plane tasks it is an annoyance.
In the continental european toolset, there are only the jointer and smoother that have a double iron. the material hogs that do 99% of the planing work are single iron

>>2528926
This is not really local history, simple physics and every plane tradition has figured it out, you either add a chip breaker or increase the angle high enough that the blade will act as chip breaker.
>>2528941
We are talking about the bench planes, which are the double irons, smooth, fore, jack and jointer, follow the thread. Continental Europeans went into chip breakers harder than anyone else in the world and went as far as putting them on rabbet planes and spoke shaves. I believe ECE still has their double iron rabbet plane in production, know they still sell blades for it.

I am very much of the continental European tradition when it comes to most planes, even use the short jack that is only a bit longer than the smooth, the long jack plane was a mistake. Picrel shows my ECE smooth and toothing plane in the background.

>>2528962
wtf original op, i always thought you were intelligent
>double iron rabbet plane
does not exist
the wooden shoulder planes do exist as single or double iron. the ulmia rabbet plane has an angled blade for a slicing cut, the ece is a plain single iron rabbet
>which are the double irons, smooth, fore, jack and jointer,
no, all sizes having a double iron is a bailey pattern curiosity.
The only wood benchplanes with double iron, are those meant for doing the final cut. smoother (putz), doppel and jointer (rauhbank)
>spoke shaves
continental spoke shaves are bevel up

>>2528967
>does not exist
picrel. Why would anyone put a chip breaker on a shoulder plane, they serve no purpose on end grain?
No, that mouth is far to wide to be effective as a shoulder plane and a chip breaker serves no purpose in a should plane since they are designed to cut end grain.
>The only wood benchplanes
Those are the bench planes that you listed. As in they are not joinery or block planes.
>continental spoke shaves are bevel up
They made both and largely switched to bevel down when the steel spoke shave replaced the wooden, same with the US. I believe it was Kunz who made the double iron spoke shave. I have one somewhere that I bought ages ago at an antique store when I was poor and just starting out, maybe I will see if I can dig it out and

>>2528971
>No, that mouth is far to wide to be effective as a shoulder plane and a chip breaker serves no purpose in a should plane since they are designed to cut end grain.
lol, Realized I grabbed the pic of the version with an adjustable mouth so edited to suit but failed to delete that bit.

>>2526906
>>2527018
got some BLO and mineral spirits, also have like half a block of beeswax left from another project. can I just melt down the wax and add it to the BLO/spirits mixture and have it penetrate into the wood? or do I need a special paste wax for that

>>2529024
Normal way would be chop up the beeswax and dissolve it into the solvent, then add the linseed. My standard recipe is to take a cheese grater to the beeswax, throw some in a jar about 1/4 full of turpentine, keep adding wax until no more will dissolve in, add a little more turpentine to dissolve that last bit of bees wax and the double that volume with linseed.

This mixture would only be used straight for softwoods and very absorbent hardwoods like poplar, would thin abit for denser hardwoods like what you see in an ax handle. General practice for thinning, add enough turpentine that it almost completely soaks into the wood. No idea if beeswax will dissolve into mineral spirits, never tried it. Melting it down can work but more suited to making paste waxes which are not the best for things like ax handles since they do not really soak into the wood very well and would not help if beeswax does not dissolve in mineral spirits since it would just reharden after it cools back down.

But as I said, no reason to over complicate an ax handle finish. Thin the linseed oil with the spirits just enough that it almost completely absorbs into the wood, apply a few coats over a week or so and you will be good. Give it a fresh coat every spring and fall.

>>2529123
alright I'll probably just cut out the wax lol. thoughts on rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool?

>>2514390

>>2529135
To hand rub bees wax just rub the block of wax onto the wood and then use some canvas or leather or most anything of the sort and rub hard until it is worked in. Your goal is to generate enough heat with the rubbing to work it well into the grain. Main trick is to learn how much wax to apply, if you put on too much from the start the cloth/leather you use to rub it in with will just drag and you will not generate enough heat to get it to work into the grain. Start out light with the wax and work your way up to learn how much to apply. This is my standard finish for my planes, holds up well, nice in the hand and is one of the finest looking matte finishes out there.

You can do this with most waxes, paraffin wax does a good job as well and is a bit easier to work in. Carnauba will give a more durable finish but you will get a serious work out rubbing it in, hard stuff with a higher melting point than other common waxes.

Steel wool is not a good material for this, it will leave bits of itself behind stuck in the wax unless you go fairly coarse and then it is better at removing the wax/wood then applying it. What works best depends on the wood, for hardwoods I generally use a nice thick bit of saddle leather or canvas, the thick leather is great for getting into details since you can use the edge but this will not really be an issue on something like an ax handle. Canvas and the like has the drawback that eventually it picks up so much wax that it no longer works, but the you just use that piece to apply wax to raw wood and grab a new piece for rubbing it in, switch back and forth between the two after that, by the time the new one has picked up too much wax the one used to apply wax to raw wood will have given up enough of its wax to start rubbing in again.

For an ax handle I would use a long strip of canvas, go at it like you are shining shoes, will go quickly.

>>2529024
i've never bothered to thin the oil before i put it on the ax handles, just wipe it on, let it sit, usually over night, then buff it down with a cloth and repeat until the wood stops taking it.
don't let it sit too long before buffing or it will get sticky and globby on the surface

>>2529157
>don't let it sit too long before buffing or it will get sticky and globby on the surface
That is because you don't bother to thin it, it can not soak into the wood. Boiled linseed is too thick to penetrate most hardwoods, you are essentially using it as a pore filler and film finish. This can be enough/good/desirable in many situation, depend on your goals.

>>2529152
I mean using 0000 steel wool to rub in the coats of linseed oil. I read the oil and dust slurry kinda levels and fills as you go. probably gonna skip the wax entirely

>>2529162
lol. Yeah, I misread.

Wet dry sandpaper will do better, steel wool has the same problem here as with the wax, it will leave bits of itself behind. 400 grit wet dry generally works well for hardwoods, or is atleast a good place to start, needs to be fine enough to not leave visible scratches but coarse enough to make some sawdust. Doing this combines pore filing with finish, but there is no reason or benefit to filling the pores on an ax handle and ultimately it is a detriment since it will limit the ability of next seasons coat to penetrate in. Pore filling is great when you want that glass like finish on that nice mahogany table top while still retaining the look and feel of wood, but it does not offer much for tool handles.

>>2529159
it seems to me that it doesn't really need to penetrate very far into tool handle to provide protection and a better grip surface.
the only place it seems to benefit deep absorption is in the eye to help lessen the head from loosening up over time.
if it's a tool that's going to get regular use, there is no real purpose to try for a high quality finish.

>>2529169
thanks anon

>>2529225
Penetration is about protection, a finish that primarily sits on the surface is easily damaged which lets moisture in, grain sucks that moisture into the wood well beyond that damage and it has to evaporate out through the surface. The areas where the surface is still protected by finish slows that evaporation which leads to rot. Deeper the finish goes the less moisture can be sucked in at sites of damage.

Someone who stores their ax in a climate controlled garage and only takes it out on nice days to chop some firewood will not really need to worry about this and no finish will probably be fine. But if you are the sort who stores their ax in a shed and likes to take it out for long walks in the forest, then it will get wet and absorb moisture, having better protection will help keep that handle in good shape for many years. A few coats of thinned oil over a week is not all that much work, maybe 10 or 15 minutes total, not exactly a labor intensive.

But it is an ax handle and essentially a consumable, they are made to be easily replaced for a reason. Personally I see the finish on such things being more about giving the handle a bit of attention a few times a year, go over it with a close eye looking for signs of a split starting or the like to make sure the head is not going to go flying off into the brush or the lake next time I swing it. Splits can be tough to see sometimes, especially when they are just starting or up by the head which keeps them tight until it no longer does and the split turns into a break.

it is an axe handle
if anon bothers to use it it will get beat up in the first week

>>2529407
can confirm, sharpened it and immediately whacked the dirt when the axe didn't bite. also did like 4 light to light-ish coats of BLO slightly thinned with spirits last night and it kept sucking it up. did I fuck up or should I just keep adding coats till it stops sucking it up?

>>2529781
>sharpened it
>didn't bite
seems like you fucked up somewhere

and dont make a science out of the oiling, youve applied more than plenty for a tool handle

>>2529783
well it's not a splitting axe and I was trying to split some really knotted shit we've had on the side of the house for years. figured it would work because they're just branches mostly, but nah that shit was sketchy

>>2529785
that makes it even worse. think there is something fucked up with your edge geometry,

>>2529787
fuck

>>2529785
Knotty wood does not split very well, especially when you are using an axe not made for splitting, and some woods do not split no matter what you use. You need reasonably well behaved grain to split, knotty wood does not have well behaved grain.

Chances are you had the head a bit twisted when it hit which deflected to blow and the knotty wood made it worse. Get yourself some well splitting clear wood to develop your technique on, oak, ash, walnut, the softwoods, etc. Geometry needs to be way off to cause issues like this, will generally just mean it dulls quickly or takes more force than should be needed.

>>2516582
Why raw and not boiled linseed oil? Doesn't raw take forever?

>>2516580
You are a retard. Poly is gay as aids and is for rednecks who don't know any better.

Why is boxwood so expensive?
It doesn't seem exotic to me

>>2529856
>Doesn't raw take forever?
no this is a meme
1 day between coats
2 day max until it doesnt feel oily at all anymore.
It has benefits over BLO.
first, its cheap.
second, no drying agent. We are no longer using lead, but those manganese and cobalt salts are toxid too, thou fairly diluted.

Smaller molecule size, quicker and deeper penetration. One undiluted coat is all thats needed for indoor furniture.
No deadline for wiping off the excess, you have more than half a day until it might feel tacky.
highest quality oils (swedish) available for cheap

I want to make some wood vertical planters but I'm not sure how to protect the wood from rotting.

Liners on the inside? Paints all over? Is it even safe to paint the side that'll be contacting the soil?

>>2530055
Use pressure treated wood rated for ground contact.

Optionally, use paint on whatever you have on hand.

Painting PT lumber will make it last a long time.

If you are super duper worried about food crops possibly getting contaminated, use cedar or yellow pine.

are log poles cheaper than cut lumber

>>2528279

i have the low angle jack plane and quite like it. one thing to look out for is their black friday seconds sale. the seconds are items with minor cosmetic blemishes that they discount. they almost always have the low angle jack on sale then.

>>2529856
>Why raw and not boiled linseed oil? Doesn't raw take forever?
Yes, raw will take around 6 months to dry. Raw has the advantage better penetration, but it is very impractical to build up a film finish with raw so less protection against surface damage.

Raw will soak in deeper than even thinned boiled which is great for things which often get wet assuming you make sure it has mostly dried before you get it wet since the swelling of the wood will squeeze out a good amount of that raw oil if it is still fairly liquid. Both are great and have their uses but neither replace the other. A coat or two of raw is essentially no finish at all, you want to regularly apply weekly coats for months or just give it a good long soak and hang to dry.
>>2530046
>No deadline for wiping off the excess
You shouldn't do that with oils anyways, thin them until they soak in and only leave the wood look damp, then apply a coat a day just until it starts to build up on the surface. if you want the wood look/feel then stop there, if you want a film finish give another coat or two.
>One undiluted coat is all thats needed for indoor furniture.
That is pretty much zero protection, all it does is slightly slow down moisture absorption at that point. Fine if you live a 24/7 climate controlled life and never open your windows but for everyone else such a finish will just shorten the life of the joinery.

>>2530149
>That is pretty much zero protection
what a load of bullshit, thats how it was done for centurys
>raw will take around 6 months to dry
you clearly dont know what you are talking about

>>2530175
Put some raw oil on a glass plate, see how long it takes to dry. Take a scrap of wood and cut it in half, finish one half as you outlined and then submerge both in water for a few seconds, compare. This is all very easy to demonstrate.
>submerging in water is not realistic!
It is perfectly fine as a test and most woods will absorb less moisture from a quick dunk than they will from a month of high humidity as most of the temperate world experiences once or twice a year.

Raw oil was used for centuries and still is, but they used more than one coat. As I said, a coat a week until the wood won't take anymore or soak and hang. Either way, avoid exposure to water and high humidity for the first ~4 months since it absolutely will squeeze oil out if the wood swells much.

>>2530191
or, i will simply continue as i do and stop wasting my time arguing.
see, I have nothing to gain from this here

>>2530192
>or, i will simply continue as i do
I was not trying to convince you to do otherwise, just giving anons the full story, this is a public form. I don't really care how you go about your finishing.

How do you guys cut down plywood? I've been thinking about the whole circular saw and foam way but I'm leaning towards getting one of these. My dewalt contractor saw has been nothing but disappointment and even the most simplest of cuts are failures. Yes, I know, but it wasn't blatantly obvious when it was gifted to me.

>>2530223
Picture didn't post
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-5000-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1002689938

>>2515247
nails are better on >wood movement because they're softer, so they bend and don't snap, meaning the wood might bend the nail and might not crack the wood
also that bending might mean nails are better for big framing jobs because maybe moving due to weather or something, but I'm not really a framer so don't take this absolutely

spitballing ideas for a his/her setup and hit a speed bump. How do you assemble large (over 8') tops in a home shop? i doubt i can find a 12' x 3 ' slab that clear, and I'm not a fan of butcher block. I guess i just need to find 4 or 5 flat long boards and router sled it to level?

>>2531205
Do you really gain anything by having a single top that long? Just have two pieces and you can be much more flexible in arrangement.

If you really want to do a top that's 8' long, get several individual boards that are 8' long, and laminate them. Joint, plane, and rip the boards to ensure they're square and straight, then glue them together. For what it's worth, doing that becomes exponentially more difficult the longer the boards are - 4' boards are going to way less effort to laminate than 8' boards.

>>2531210
I know it's me being picky but i don't like the idea of a seam. I also don't have a jointer or planer. most of my tops have been laminated on edge and flattened with a router sled. I guess i could do that here too, but im not sure of the most efficient way to get to that step. I'm curious if i can even get 8/4 lumber in that length around here. I really don't want to toss some 2x12s together and end of with a shitty farm house top. also considering on edge plywood lamination. just have to find some consistent plywood.

>>2531224
8' is about the shortest length I can reliably find for dimensional hardwood at my preferred lumber yard, and is a common length for the 8/4 stock.
Plywood is a viable approach. You can get a 3/4" sheet with A face grade from a lumber yard, veneer the edges with some real wood, and optionally stiffen it with some stringers to also increase the height/thickness if you want.

>>2531205
Since you have a router, sliding dovetails. Kind of a pain at 8' but not terrible, really need to make sure those boards are true, a little twist or bow and it quickly becomes a pain in the ass. But no clamps needed and little to no post glue up surfacing if you get everything right.

If you have enough clamps for 8' then tongue and groove or a spline will make glue up much easier and greatly reduce post glueup surfacing.

Breadboard edges are the ideal solution for such top, greatly increases stability of the top, simplifies glueup and locks everything together. But probably not well suited to your aesthetic.