/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2500960
I don't think so
>3 batteries
>1 charger
you could have got more for less money if you got the 12 volt line of tools

>>2500971
Okay I appreciate the input. Does the 18volt variation atleast make the tool more powerful? I'm not too sure what the difference in V's do

>>2500971
Nope, this is the retard opinion from poorfags who really want Milwaukee but can’t afford to spend more than $200 so they limp themselves with a specialty compact battery.

OP went 18V and he has a saw large enough to cut a 2x4, a grinder that can run one of a million 4.5” discs and attachments, and an impact wrench that can reliably remove lug nuts… basic stuff you can’t do with M12 batteries.

>>2500960
It’s not bad. Those “50% off!” deals are normally older versions of the tools, so nothing is brushless Fuel stuff, but if you’re a homeowner, brushed Milwaukee will do everything you need to do.

Pros: a bunch of M18 for <$100/tool, decent size batteries to run the saws, the hammer drill is super useful and normally it’s a basic drill/driver in budget kits, angle grinders and multitools are awesome versatile tools you will use more than you thought, babby blowers are great for sawdust, and the compact circ saws are great for making small cuts near a project after doing the main cuts somewhere else on the miter saw or table saw or sawhorses.

Cons: A couple of the tools, the brushless Fuel versions are on another level. Fuel 7-1/4” circ saw will replace a corded one, Fuel grinder probably has a little more balls and life if you’re pushing it real hard, and the Fuel 1/2” impacts are like double the power and probably more compact. But most of those tools are like 1/3 the cost of that whole kit, so if you used the old kit versions enough that you want the extra ~20% in the future with the Fuel version, you can get it.

>>2500986
See >>2500987

Anon is dumb. The 12V tools are small compact versions of certain tools. Much more limited lineup, but good for certain trades where guys work in tight spaces and will trade the limited power for less weight and size.

But the M12 kits can be found cheap, so people buy an M12 drill and impact driver for $120 or a Fuel kit for <$200 and become huge Milwaukee fanbois without ever doing much work with the stuff.

They will come here and say the super compact stubby impact wrench had all the power that anybody would need, but if you ask them if they have ever used the full size 18V version with 4x the power, they go quiet, every time.

Buying 18V is the smart way to go for your first cordless power tools. 12V is a supplemental thing if you want the compact tools in the future.

>>2500987
Wow nice post. I really appreciate that.
I am just building up my tool set so I definitely plan on spending more money in the future.
I just figured it wasn't and incredible price and I definitely have use for all the tools in the kit.

>>2500995
Oh and the first post, about the corded versions of the saw…

#1, for the reciprocating saw, it’s probably not even worth going with a corded one. If you need more, think about going with a full size 2-handed brushless 18V version. With a good blade and something like the M18 Fuel Sawzall, you can make a lot of cuts on a 4.0Ah battery pack. Eventually maybe you get some 6.0s or larger batteries, and if you’re running 6.0s down, you’re doing something crazy or using the wrong tool.

And for corded circ saws, after getting a Ryobi 10” sliding miter saw with a stand for <$300, I haven’t touched my 7-1/4” circ saw. All of the main cuts are done on the miter saw, and then the compact 18V circ saw does little touch up cuts and rips through plywood just fine. One of those things where there’s not a huge benefit to the extra 3/4” between your 18V and buying a regular corded skilsaw, also not dicking around with cords on long plywood cuts is great with the 18V saws, so do whatever you think will be best for your situation.

>>2500960
>no jigsaw

>>2501002
Wow thanks man the info is very much appreciated.
I definitely see a table saw and a chop saw in my future as well.
You have been a huge help my friend +1 internet to you.

>>2500986
The difference is mostly power, but some tools are exclusively 12v or 18v. It all comes down to your specific needs but you'll eventually get both so I wouldn't worry too much about it. I mostly have 12v because I do flooring. I rarely need power tools and I occasionally use a wide variety of them so it makes sense for me to be able to pack in a dozen tools into a small bag that can easily be carried into the jobsite. Plus I think the 12v oscillating tool is superior to the 18v version and that's the only tool I truly need.

You all know that OP is KvD and that he posts threads like this all the time so that he can fill them with shill replies, right?

>>2500986
12v is for smaller things. I wouldn't want to use a 12v circ saw or angle grinder. 18v is for real work so you did good. I have both 12v and 18v milwaukee for different tasks.

>>2500960
Milwawkee is aight, but most of that shit is made in China these days.

>>2501026
It’s an elaborate plan to make 4chAm gimme lots of upvotes!

Speaking of voting, there was some county seat that only had a (D) running unopposed so I wrote in “Ligma Balls”.

>>2500992
12v is plenty for almost all home owner things. It doesn't hold a candle I'm power though to even am 18v ryobi. It's slower but will get the job done.

>>2501108
It’s not about the power really. The 12V drill will make holes in drywall fine. It’s about the 12V lineup being a bunch of compact specialty tools, the average weekend warrior likely needs a saw that can cut through a 2x4 at an angle, and that’s one of the many tools that you can find in any 18V lineups but nobody makes a 12V version. And when you start drilling with hole saws or want to drill a few holes in steel, the 18V full size drills absolutely destroy the 12V drills.

Plus all of the battery powered OPE lots of homeowners are using. Let me know when you find a 12V string trimmer or chainsaw that is capable of replacing the gas versions.

>>2500960
By the Emperor, my poor ass would kill someone for this set, which would in my turd world country cost double at best.

>>2503044
>this and checked
OP spent $650 on cordless tools

>>2500960
should i buy a bunch o f these and resell them after the new year?

>>2503053
Yes sell me blowers and batteries.

>>2503053
Depends how much cash you’re willing to put up front and how many dumbasses you’re willing to deal with to make a couple hundred bucks.

Walking out of the store with FREE* M18 Fuel as the alarm goes off will net you a much better profit margin.

I recently paid an arm and a leg for the Makita 40v impact driver, hammer drill and circular saw. They're all great power-wise, though weight can be an issue. Did I fuck up by buying into a line where every tool is so expensive? I thought it would be a good future-proofing move, but I can only afford to buy one-two of these a year.

I don't think those are brushless

>>2505387
You may have, especially because shit like their drill is exactly the same as their 18V model. I’m sure the impact driver is the same deal since you’re not going to draw more power from the 1/4” driver than an 18V battery can power. As for the circular saw, you might get a little bit more performance, but Makita also has a 2x 18V circular saw if the regular 18V brushless saw wasn’t going fast enough for you.

I wouldn’t jump up to that higher voltage stuff unless I wanted a 40V SDS or something and I was running it a lot for work, or shit like the 3/4” impact if I were a diesel mechanic. Hey, it’s your money though.

DeWalt did it smartest with everything from their Atomic tools with PowerStack batteries up to big ass 60V packs and a giant grinder that all work together. Meanwhile Milwaukee will put up big numbers on large tools with the M18 stuff because those 8.0Ah 18V packs have the exact same power output as a Makita 4.0Ah 40V pack. Makita is just sort of retarded with their battery systems and so many dumb people only care about the number on the pack.

>>2505408
No shit. It’s not a huge difference on most tools, especially for DIYers. A weekender is probably going to upgrade a given cordless tool after 15 years before the brushes ever wear out.

>>2500960
Need a 1/4 Die Grinder for work, because the pneumatic ones they give use die (because they don't give us the tools to maintain them, lol)
Want something compact so it doesn't take up much space in my toolbox. Really wanted to snag a m12 one, would have done it if I could have found it for a good deal in one of the bundles. I've already got a decent number of Dewalt tools, but the 20v Die grinder they offer is just too big. Ended up snagging a 1 star reviewed Dewalt pneumatic die grinder, for around 60$ including the tool oil. Did I make the right call?

>>2505430
My brushed drill started making funny sounds after 4 years. It still works but every time I use it feels like it'll be its last.

>>2505681
>funny sounds
Is it the brushes? That’s not a brushed vs brushless thing if the clutch or gearbox is fucked up. Old brushes normally spark a lot and smell like shit and you can replace them on lots of tools fairly easily, but it takes a lot of hours to run through them,

>>2505430
yeah, I fell for the "number bigger" meme because I have no clue what I'm doing. I'll probably keep forging ahead because they're not bad tools and the most serious I'm going to get is probably reframing a wall or two.

>>2505787
I mean if I were in your position and ended up with the 40V stuff, I would probably end up getting some 12V tools for the smaller stuff. Even if you have to buy a couple batteries and a charger, you could get a 12V multitool and drill and impact driver and maybe odd lights and such. Then the saws and shit, go with 40V because 12V is too weak and you don’t have an 18V setup. Problem is you already have the 40V drill and impact driver, plus neither the 40V nor 12V lineups are anywhere close to how extensive the 18V platforms are.

Honestly this is a good all round bundle for an amateur /diy/er
Milwaukee is great because the batteries don't fail are hard as other brands in the frigid fucking cold (looking at you rigid)

As other anons pointed out you don't need brushless FUEL if you are just throwing the occasional cabinet together and not working day in day out with them

the only thing m12 that I honestly would give a damn about would be a 1/4in drive impact because if you are driving hundreds of bolts the weight difference will be appreciable but its not so noticeable for non pros doing a small projects

If you are going to be making holes bigger than 1/2" through a solid material do yourself a favor and rent (or buy) an SDS hammer-drill and get SDS Max, you can scale it down but you cannot scale up

As for the angle grinder...
be so fucking careful using a cutting wheel, it is the definition of a necessary evil and a last resort because of tool clearance reasons but even with a guard it can still fuck you up

>>2500960
It's silly to care about a few dollars in purchase price for a kit that easily lasts a decade. As you use them you'll see new ways to use them. Once a tool has paid for itself (easy and quick in these days of high labor costs) subsequent use is nearly free.

I don't bother with platformtism either. You have a kit, enjoy it but if you see a useful tool in another format get that too.

>>2500987
>Fuel grinder probably has a little more balls and life if you’re pushing it real hard


The non fuel Milwaukee M18 grinders are trash i had one. I used one hard cutting steel plate and grinding on rusty jeep frames. It would work well for a short time then get hot and hit the limit switch. It was annoying as fuck and the Fuel grinders dont do that.

>>2500960
>>2505408

-M18 1/2 in. Drill Driver (2607-20) BRUSHED
-M18 1/4 in. Hex Impact Driver (2656-20) BRUSHED
-M18 6-1/2 in. Circular Saw (2630-20) BRUSHED
-M18 HACKZALL (2625-20) BRUSHED
-M18 4-1/2 in. Grinder (2680-20) BRUSHED
-M18 Multi-Tool (2626-20) BRUSHED
-M18 1/2 in. impact wrench with friction ring (2663-20) BRUSHED
-M18 blower (0884-20) BRUSHED
-M18 LED work-light (2735-20)

I personally would not buy brushed power tools, but if you are satisfied...keep them.

I primarily use Milwaukee because my wife's boyfriend uses it and always leaves a couple batteries at my house

>>2507516
Cheap cordless angle grinders are basically only good for a wire brush. I like my cordless tools but until I pony up the $200+ for a cordless grinder that isn't a piece of shit I'm going to stick with corded.

>>2500987
I'm pretty sure these are all brushless.

>>2507786
I have both and for heavy work I grab my old green (not green/black) 6" Metabo or my Makita. For 9" my DeWalt works well (I maintained a heterogenous grinder fleet for a welding school and bought different brands and models to see what was toughest).

I've a Makita and a DeWalt 4-1/2"cordless but they mostly exist to run 6" cutting wheels (I modded 6" guards from other grinders to fit them). They're great for mechanics, salvage and general cutting away from the shop. Will buy more over time.

Welders buy corded first then cordless in most cases because it's the optimal choice but DIYers working slower may not care.

>>2500960
My brother got a mini kit that had the drill and the 1/4" impact. Tried out the impact by holding it back with a wrench. I was able to hold it back with my hand which got me wonder what was the point of it? Would be better to just get an actual impact so you can put some real torque down.

>>2507864
That’s not really how it works. Even though you can hold the end of the impact with your hand while pulling the trigger, all of those small blows translate to >100ft-lbs. Hold the trigger for a few seconds and the power output is equivalent to putting your whole body weight into a 3/8” ratchet, and far beyond what you could ever do with a screwdriver.

>>2507874
My first though that is if it had any real power it would twist that 1/4" right off. I just can't imagine it putting in that much torque but I guess science shit makes it work.

>>2507875
You can't drive a spring with a hammer. Your hand is springy in that setup. Try it on an actual screw and watch it go straight through a 2x4. Or shear the head off depending on what sort of screw it is.

>>2507875
Yea science is more than that. You can put a socket on a 500lb impact wrench and hold it with your hand, although the vibrations will hurt your hand, you can keep the socket from spinning. Meanwhile that socket will rattle loose stuff that makes you struggle with a breaker bar.

Like other anon said, use the thing on some screws and watch them split a board in half.

>>2507908
>You can put a socket on a 500lb impact wrench and hold it with your hand
Tangentially, I once used a series of adapters to use a 1000lb impact wrench to drive a drywall screw. It never put up enough resistance to trigger the impact mechanism, and it shot out the far side of the board I drove it through fast enough that it smoked.

>>2507932
Yeah I’ve made that mistake too many times, pulling 3” screws out of boards real fast with the impact and drop them in my hand and they’re fucking burning hot.

>>2507875
>I just can't imagine it putting in that much torque
Science time. An impact driver (wrench, etc.) doesn't produce torque like a motor-driven driver does. Instead, it spins a hammer that produces a particular maximum impulse. Impulse is the product of force and time, so if it hits something with a lot of give, it produces a lower force for a longer time. If it hits something stiff, it produces a higher force for a shorter time. When driving a screw (or whatever) that provides enough resistance to trigger the impact mechanism, the screw gets driven in with small impacts which would individually be easy to resist by something flexible like a handheld wrench. But since the screw in the material is generally a rather stiff setup, the screw experiences high torque and progressive motion.

>>2500960
I came here from /o/ to tell you that you done gone did good, OP.

>>2507965
The new brushless stuff is a great example of this. Stuff like the M18 Fuel, those impact drivers are tiny and they don’t have a huge hammer, but the brushless motors spin really quick. I love muh subcompact brushless impact driver because of that, you can drive small screws without wrecking stuff if you go at low speed where the hammer on some of the older brushed stuff would shatter the wood as soon as it impacts. But then lay into the trigger and that tiny impact driver has no problem sending 3”+ screws in.

I saw this for 350 and am tempted even though I never use a reciprocating saw

>>2509026
>even though I never use a reciprocating saw
It's a nice thing to have, especially if you have a house/yard that needs maintenance. The most common use I've gotten out of mine is cutting roots of shrubs/trees to be removed. They're not good for cutting material for use in a project, but they're very nice for demolition tasks like that, where they can get in weird places and can tolerate dirty material. Though the one I have is a "compact" model with a bottom-mounted motor that allows it into shorter spaces. It also comes with a light. Whether any of that would be useful to you depends on your own situation.

>>2500960
I approve fren

>>2500960
Mixed feelings about the M18 circular saw, I have the brushless version.
I love not to have to fuck around with extension cords, but it eats high capacity batteries like a champ and there's really no way around that, saws use a lot of power.
Wouldn't recommend unless you're a contractor and it's making you money.

It's a good deal. If you need the tools, go for it.

>>2509047
Look at all that chinkshit, disgusting.

>>2500960
Home Depot has a pretty similar set for $579 today.

>>2500960
Not a bad set i use these a bit for work and never seem to fail me

>>2500960
Is Black+Decker a good brand for wireless drills?
I was planning on buying a bosch or DeWalt one but they are fucking expensive and found out Black+Decker drills are cheaper

>>2509868
If you just need something for around the house, and odd jobs, go with the Milwaukee m12 Fuel Drill and Driver set. $199 for drill, driver, a low capacity battery, a mid capacity battery, and charger. Supposedly, they've got more horsepower than the regular Dewalt 20v's do.

>>2509943
I do get some use out of my cordless circular and reciprocating saws (came as a set). Mostly the reciprocating one for pruning, clearing out fallen trees, and chopping up scrap to a manageable size. The circular saw does see some light duty during projects, but those are usually so close to an outlet that it's unnecessary.

>>2509868
>Is Black+Decker a good brand for wireless drills?
No. They're a low-end line for very basic performance. They're not uselessly bad, but their performance and build quality are only suited to light and occasional use. Things like hanging pictures and working on furniture kits should go fine, but it may struggle for things like building a wooden work bench. Metalwork is probably right out, practically speaking. But they are cheap, so they may be a good choice if that's all you need. Ryobi makes a much more capable line aimed more at a DIYer who actually does projects. The more expensive brands typically offer increased performance for that cost. Do you need to drill half-inch holes in steel without pilot holes? I do, which is why I went with the DeWalt drill that can do that. The M12 line is excellent, but it's designed more for compactness than economy, and it does sacrifice significant power compared to 18V tools. A mid tier 18V line like Ryobi would probably give you more bang for your buck.

>>2500960
Great purchase IMO. I’ve spent much more on acquiring the same tools through a storename brand

>>2509943
>Supposedly
Another anon posts the M12 Fuel as a starter kit because he really likes Fuel for <$200 and hasn’t used the 18V tools and hasn’t looked into the future far enough to ask “Do I want a cordless circular saw that can cut a 2x4?”

No. 12V shit is a bad idea for a beginner power tool setup for somebody trying to get into DIY, no matter how much you want your Fuel without having the money. It’s a small lineup of specialty compact tools meant to supplement the main 18V stuff for certain trades. Ryobi 18V is way better for a beginner DIYer, and for $200 you can get like 5+ tools if you go basic brushed stuff or get some nice brushelrss 18V HP Ryobi tools for the same money.

>>2509868
Very beginner tools. If you need a cordless drill to use for half a dozen holes a couple times a year, they will get the job done.

>>2500960
I got the same kit minus the blower for $350

You got fucking scammed big guy

>tfw you live in japan and tools are fucking expensive as fuck
batteries alone are like $200 each

>>2510958
batteries cost about that much here, too. that's how they get you.

>>2510958
You can at least easily buy the Makita power tools that are made in Japan. In Australia all I can find is the stuff that's made in China, with my one non-brushless tool made in Thailand.

avoid brushed if you can, especially for cordless tools. they use a lot more power.

i would recommend buying a few tools in one specific make/brand/lineup and expanding as-needed, and look for bundles that include batteries. when my wife and I moved-in together, she had an 18v Makita drill with 2 batteries... and that was it. Now we have two drills, plus an impact/hammer, oscillating multitool, flashlight and 10in saw and 5 batteries (some are 8 years old and still work great), including a bigass 5amp one. We use all of these frequently and they have each individually paid for themselves multiple times over in utility.

I assess the value of tools on an as-needed basis. For instance, wife and I needed a finishing nailgun in order to install some baseboards. Makita cordless one plus battery was something stupid like $199... for a tool we would maybe use a few times. For that cost, we got a 5gal air compressor (something i've wanted) and cheap nailgun that got the job done from harbor freight (lmao) for basically half the cost. Will probably seldom need it again, but it is there and it was cheap.

Yard tools are Ryobi. Quality is shit, old home owner left them with the house though so we use them... they work but they're like green plastic toys.

You can't really go wrong with DeWalt/Makita/Milwaukee. Once you get into one ecosystem though it makes sense to stick with it, so consider carefully before you dump $600 on brushed equipment that you might not like many years down the line. Better to get a few, good tools now and expand later.

>>2511184
>a bigass 5amp one
Technical note. Cordless tool batteries are typically rated by amp-hours, which is the ability to deliver a certain current for a certain duration. Large modern batteries may be capable of delivering 40 or more amps of current.

>>2500992
building operator here. A few jobs this week required the 12v. Super tight spots, assembly of pigeon hole gowning storage for a lab. Would have been so much quicker than using a ratchet screwdriver and nut driver.

I have had OPs M18s for 3 years now. The sawzall and circ saw work awesome. Batteries are just starting to go, but it's understandable with the amount of work they have done.

Chink crap, better dead than red.

>>2500960
Depends on what you want to get done.
Toolkit for me would be rather useless without the ratchet.
Everything else has good analogues by milwaukee's pretend competition of sufficient quality for home use.
t. Ryobi user looking to buy just the ratchet sometime soon.

>>2505642
Update, just got told at work that this thing is too god damn loud and that they're worried I'll give my co-workers hearing loss, and that I can't use it anymore. It's exactly as loud as the other ones already provided.....

>>2514220
>It's exactly as loud as the other ones already provided.....
Did you actually check that?

>>2500960
Bretty good, I like brushless motors on my most used tools (cordless drill driver) but having multitool and sawzall and even angle grinder on battery is really useful imo.

>>2514231
Watched a few youtube videos, one of the reviewers was comparing how loud several brands were and was measuring decibels. They were like 1 decibel apart in volume, which is a difference,but with how loud they are, I don't think that makes too much of a difference.

>>2514245
decibel scale is logarithmic so 1db can make an enormous difference at the higher end of the scale
also it matters how far away the sound is measured

odd that none of y'all are wearing hearing protection tho

>>2500960
I would have either bought used or bought a Ryobi set if you're just using them around the house.

>>2514683
My gas weed whacker just shat the bed, and I said when the thing dies, I’m going electric so I’m waiting on pic related to show up.

I guess OP could always do what I did, keep the Milwaukee for his main workin tools and go Ryobi for random shit. Been stoked on my $100 Ryobi hedge trimmer and chainsaw, then got that babby 5.5” circ saw for free and it’s actually decent for ripping plywood, and I caught a good deal for this brushless 15” trimmer with a 4.0Ah battery. I almost got the Ryobi 18V router too because I didn’t want to drop $150 on the Ridgid for a twixe a year tool.

Ridgid just teased they’re starting to put out some OPE, but who knows what that stuff will cost. Also Ryobi batteries are often so cheap that you can have a bunch of 4.0s laying around if the yard tools rip through em, although not like I’m trimming 2+ acres with 18V tools.

This kit went up to $180 a day or two after I ordered it too.

>>2514728
That orange weed whacker looks real similar to the better Ryobi models too. I wonder if it will take attachments, I’m probably going to grab the edger attachment for the Ryobo if I see it for a better price than it is right now.

>>2514728
I have a Ryobi trimmer and I love it, but you should know that they sell Ryobi factory seconds and refurbished tools at Direct Tools Outlet for very cheap, and have regular sales. Since Ryobi is exclusive with Home Depot this is the way the company is able to sell items that HD won't carry. Thought you should know!

>>2514728
I'll normally just order the part that failed but every several years it is nice to buy some new tools.

>This kit went up to $180 a day or two after I ordered it too.

Lol bummer.

>>2509047
I bet you even shit red...

>>2514220
You work with faggots, tell them i called them homos monday morning.

>>2514802
I normally do this too, but after getting a couple battery powered yard tools, they’re so much easier to use.

That curved shaft trimmer was cheap and annoyed me anyway, it was too short for me. I like to edge around the driveway with it and it gets starved for gas. Also the thing took a bunch of pulls to get going.

Anyway the real reason is it wasn’t worth fixing. The pull cord mechanism broke, and that’s a little bit larger part, if I could even find it. I took it apart to see what assembly I would need, and the clutch was super super tight on the shaft, so I had to jam a screwdriver in the spinning assembly to keep it in place and grab the channellocks, and something got bent of fucked in there because it took so much pressure to break the clutch loose. So when I got the pull cord together at half length and tried to spin it up, the whole tool was all unbalanced.

I still have a gas blower too that I barely ever use because my 18V one works really well and is less of a hassle to use. Not even worth pulling the cord to run for 3min of blowing off the driveway and patio.