/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I'll post it again
Thank god, two full days in the oven at 60°C finally did the trick and the PLA prints well again, still hearing some very rare pops so I'll put them in the oven for yet another day after which I'll put each roll in a bag with dessicant in there.
Was really worried there for a bit because I bought four rolls of this stuff so I was worried that they'd all be garbage but I guess they were just a bit wet.

>>1922449
PLA doesn't soak up moisture. I'd bet you got your hands on a shit batch of PLA.

>bag with dessicant
will do nothing propably. Store the spools under a vacuum.

>3 days in the oven
you could buy new PLA from that amount of electricity

>>1922470
pla is hydroscopic and prints are even more brittle when moist. its not as bad as other materials but it does soak up humidity

>>1922473
Been storing open reels PLA for 1 year+ and never had this issue. (Das Filament; M4P)
It's hygroscopicy should be neglible. Maybe some other brands are critical.
I modded a food dehydrator for drying spools and used it once on TPU.

>>1922437
never done this before and too lazy for G**gle, is there a rubber like material i can print grips out of? i like the ridge texture 3dp gives but hard plastic is not ideal for slingshot. i have a simple aluminium frame to attach the grip to

>>1922470
Then why did keeping the thing in the oven for two days fix the issues completely?

Would it be possible to print a table for my Ender 3 to rest on? Also, is PLA+ worth the extra cost?

The cooling fan on my new hot end is buzzing. If I touch my finger to it it stops for s moment then starts again. I've tightened all the screws and it's only made it worse. Any idea why? It's clearly a vibration thing but screw tightening should of stopped it.

Also sucks it didn't solve my stringing problem. But I have a SLA printer to set up soon so it doesn't really matter. I'm only using it to bring large mostly solid objects.

>>1922501
Yes but it wouldn't be a good idea. It would cost more than buying a cheap second hand table which would be far safer.

>>1922503
Shitty bearings, if it works then it's not an issue

>>1922504
Thanks, I thought it could be a fun first big project to try out.

>>1922498
Maybe Ninjaflex?

>>1922513
I'd still like to fix it some how. It's annoying as fuck. Touching the casing stops it I should say not the actual fan. I'm concerned it could translate to the print.

>>1922515
First big print shouldn't be a table. Print a vase or a dragon dildo or something.

>>1922501
Try a double-Lack-stack

>>1922479
>Been storing open reels PLA for 1 year+ and never had this issue
Where do you live anon? Here in Buenos Aires it's a very risky gamble

>>1922500
same thing happened with my cat

>>1922479
>>1922470
Might have had something to do with the fact that my printer was in the laundry room with wet clothes drying next to it all the time.

>>1922564
>double-Lack-stack
that's a cool setup

>>1922503
"buzzing" sounds like the blades are hitting something, and tightening might make it worse by pushing it into the interference. you can pull the screws and hold it, then fire it up to see if it makes noise by itself or >>1922513 except shitty bearings are going to overheat and at least wreck a print when it fails.

>>1922581
What could the part cooling fan blades even hit? I can try taking it off tomorrow but I bought the things not to mess with mostly. I was tired of fiddling with the old hot end and after the heat cartridge screw some how loosened it's self mid print I decided to just replace it for safety sake.

>>1922587
just my interpretation of your description of buzzing and it's not that hard for it to be brushing something that's not immediately obvious. in any case removing it will isolate if it's the fan, something else or a result of having them together. I mean it's probably bearings but who knows when everything is cheap chinese shit taped together.

>>1922592
The motor doesn't seem to be on straight but the filament is lining up fine so I've left it alone.

It's a vibration buzzing. touching the fan casing any where stops it or very close to it on the hot end shroud.

>>1922596
again, I'm suggesting remove the fan hold it away and see if the fan buzzes the unit buzzes or nothing buzzes. I think this will tell you a lot, but on my rig this involves 4 screws and two seconds, the wiring is easy to pull away etc. so it seems like a simple test to me. maybe your rig is more complex?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq2IKp3jeaY

Just started printing recently on an Ender 3, are there worthwhile things to print to improve the performance / life-span or have I been watching click-bait?

>>1922609
It's the same in mine. Is there a way to force the cooling part fan to turn on? I have octoprint

>>1922611
It's clickbait but it's also some what true. There are lots of small things you can print to improve your printer but they're only worth it if you have a problem. Don't build a frankenmachine for the sake of it. Spend some time with yours. Find what issues you personally have and fix it. My biggest pet peeve with the stock ender was the print surface wouldn't let go of prints easily. So I replaced it with a flexible bed which drastically improved my experience. Every other upgrade I've printed wasn't vital.

>>1922616
You can turn the fan on with your printer

>>1921793
>>1921825
>>1921845
>>1922189
sorry lol, i just said "fuck it' about 5 minutes after posting and decided to go for it. the printed mold worked great aside from the spot of plaster damage you can see in the pic.

>>1922738
Looks nice anon, congrats, what's it for? Some kind of heating bed?

Spamanon here; even with a raft, if I have a sharp corner or u-turn on the first layer the filament curls up. I think adding the fan shroud made it a bit better, but it's still there. What should I try? Increasing the nozzle temperature so the filament sticks better to the raft and increasing fan speed/relying on the new shroud to make it cool into shape faster? Sorry that I don't have a pic.

>>1922752
it's a diy hot plate for reflowing surface mount components on circuit boards. it remains to be seen whether the aluminum will hold its flatness after heating to 800F. if not then it'll just be a lower temperature preheater for hot air soldering.

>>1922767
I love the Plan B mentality anon. Do tell the results for both uses!

>>1922002
>>1921974
Behold, a more proper parametric shower curtain. Yet to be converted and printed. I don't foresee any problems with the printing process. According to >>1918458 and >>1918512, sucking them and spraying them with bleach every few months should work for keeping the mold out; am I missing anything?

>>1922830
I hope you like the arrangement

>>1922830
I hope your plan is for one side look completely awful. You have an entirely round tube shape printing in thin air or on supports. Bottom chamfers never come out smooth.

>>1922873
Although I have considered it, it's just a shower curtain hook so I think I can afford to take a gamble. The most worrisome layer is already resting on the brim.

>>1922873
This may simultaneously please you and help me jew filament, what do you think?

>>1922899
>>1922873
It does help with the time, and the lower layers aren't as steep now

>>1922904
You'll improve print time by moving your hooks so they're kinda inside each other to reduce travel between hooks.

>>1922909
I have considered it, but on trying it nothing stuck to my bed yet again, so I recalibrated it and now I'm printing them one at a time to reduce waste in case it fails mid-print. Although by hooking them into each other it could merit to build a raft for all of them, which has helped me before.

It has a face only a mother would love, but I guess it'll do

>>1922927
Printing it on a raft yet again helped. I should pony up for a glass bed or at least glue.

I'm a traveller from /tg/ and I was trying to do an atomic pull to clear out my extruder nozzle (Ender 3 v2). I'm done for now, but I can't for the life of me slide this fastener back down the Bowden tube to resecure the Bowden to the hot end assembly. Is there some trick or am I just fucked?

im trying to dial in my stepper steps. z is quite accurate, i got the accuracy down to ~0.05mm. a and b (i have a corexy printer) are another story.
i made a calibration cross for calibrating the steps (pic rel top). i print it rotated 45deg, so the arms of the cross are coincident with movement of my axes. i then measure the dimensions of arms in 3 locations (end-mid-root), the total length of the arm and the size of 20x20x20 cube in the middle. the dimensions are marked in table (pic rel bottom). i then recalculate the steps, print a new cross with new steps and remeasure the new cross.
what i cant figure out is why the smaller dimensions have different ratios from large dimensions? ie, why the fuck the steps that give me exact 20mm on arm and cube width, give me oversized arms (100.5 or so)?
how do i calibrate so both small and large dimensions are accurate? I would love to get all dimensions to atleast 0.1mm tolerance.

>>1923056
its difficult to tell from your pic, but its likely you broke the tube holder. these cheap chinese holders are really easy to brake. theyre also cheap as fuck, so i usually just buy 10 of them and change them every other time i remove the tube (which isnt that often anyways).
you can check by removing the tube from the holder completely. then press down on the collar of the holder. you should see hooks inside the holder retract slightly. if they dont move at all (most of the time only some of them move), the holders fucked and youll need to get a replacement.

>>1923056
>>1923060
I'm a dumbass, I didn't realize the plastic portion above the threaded brass needed to be pressed down in order for the brass to move the direction I needed.
Thanks for the reply.
Now that everything is back in place I'm no longer under extruding so the original problem has been fixed as well.

Since my question got burried before, reposting here.

I want to upgrade my Chiron's hotend with a V6, I found a really neat upgrade on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3512007)) , and want to print it out of high temperature withstanding PETG, which should go up to 100C safely.

Three things I want to ask though.
First of all, what fans does the chiron use for part cooling and what would be a good upgrade for air volume pushed, but not necessarily noise. What would be a good upgrade to the hotend fan too?

Second of all, am I able to just plug the new hotend in to the main board on the carriage and just have it run? Am I able to recycle the heater cartridge and the thermistor from the stock hotend too? I want a simple install, but if I need to get some sotter I need to know ahead of time.

And lastly, I never printed with PETG before. Anyone has any profiles/tips/tricks for printing PETG on the chiron with the default bed?

>>1923057
That is completely the wrong way to calculate stepper steps, a print you printed will not accurately tell you what distance the print head moves per step, what you need to do is to move the print head a certain number of steps and measure the amount it moved with calipers or something. Usually the steps come properly dialed in from the factory since it is very simple and easy to get right and not really machine specific.

>>1923139
this doesnt make any sense. i really dont give a fuck how much my print head moves. i only care that the parts made are within tolerance. while these things are of course interconnected, your suggestion to measure print head moves is absolutely backwards.
my machine is fully diy, so i cant trust "factory" settings, not that i would even if it wasnt a diy machine.
lastly, nothing you said explains why small dimensions came out fine, while large dimensions are oversized.

>>1923190
You want a machine that will move the print head 10 millimeters when you tell it to move 10 millimeters, parts being too big or too small is an issue you will have to deal with in slicer settings, with flow rates, and when designing the part.

You absolutely cannot use prints to decide steps per mm because print dimensions are affected by a fuckton of different variables and even with the very same settings you will get two different results just by scaling up or down the part you are printing because print dimensions are kind of determined by the size of the print + other variables like the plastic being pushed outwards by over extrusion or contracting inwards due to under extrusion.
For example, if you print a cube that is 20mm in cad the size might be (20mm size in cad) - (0.5mm due to under extrusion) so 19.5mm and then if you print a 40mm cube its size will be (40mm size in cad) - (that same 0.5mm due to under extrusion) so 39.5mm. If you were trying to figure out the correct steps per mm with that method you'd get two different answers. You can kind of make do if you print something that is the size of your print plate, say (200mm in cad) - (0.5 due to under extrusion) = 199.5mm, you will get pretty close but it's a lot easier just to measure the movement of the axis with a pair of calipers or a dial indicator mounted to the frame, even then you must remember that you will get the best accuracy by measuring as long moves as possible because then any imprecision due to measuring errors will be a very small percentage of the measurement.

What you can kind of figure out by measuring your prints for example is if your axes are exactly 90 degrees apart from each others.

>>1923190
>move the print head a certain number of steps and measure the amount it moved with calipers
Anon is right
Steps should be true to machine movement
Print measurements have errors in extrusion width, bed clearance, shrinkage and even the measurement itself.
Measuring the actual head movement with as large of travel practical to accurately measure reduces and/or excludes these errors.
Then tweak the model, extruder, Z clearance, ect.
My machine is also fully DIY, but I'm not going to analyze and theorize about your print whan you're doing it wrong

I have looked at Anycubic Chiron and Creality CR-10s but can't decide which one to get. Which one would be better to buy as my first printer? Chiron seems intriguing because of its larger print volume.

>>1923202
i have already calibrated my e-steps. i also use decent material and have calibrated my extrusion multiplier to get exactly 0.45mm thickness lines (thats the line width that i use).
once again, nothing you said actually explains the difference in accuracy between small (20mm) and large dimensions (100mm). if i misunderstood something, please explain this difference.

>>1923203
i disagree. i dont really care how much the machines moves, i only care that the parts are within tolerance. what good does knowing that the print head moves exactly 100mm gives me, if the parts i print come out 102mm?
also, please give an explanation why smaller dimensions (20mm) come out fine on my machine, but larger ones (100mm) are oversized? nothing youve gives even a hint to an explanation.

>>1923206
Chiron has more features and is bigger, just ditch the autoleveling right away.

>>1923209
>>1923202
ps: picrel is the model i used for tuning e-steps and extrusion multiplier. i printed it with 1, 2, 4, 6 wall thicknesses and all of them came out within 0.05mm (good enough for me).

>>1923209
>smaller dimensions (20mm) come out fine on my machine, but larger ones (100mm) are oversized? nothing youve gives even a hint to an explanation.
Possible that steps are off. This error increases 5 fold when going from 20 to 100.
There's also bed leveling and shrinkage that could cause errors

>calibrated my extrusion multiplier to get exactly 0.45mm thickness lines
>exactly
No such thing

>>1923209
(20mm) - (0.5mm due to random fuckery) = 19.5mm
(100mm) - (0.5mm due to random fuckery) = 99.5mm
If you adjust the steps up so the 20mm is perfect:
((20mm) - (0.5 due to random fuckery)) x (102.5% steps) = 20mm cube
((100mm) - (0.5 due to random fuckery)) x (102.5% steps) = 102.05mm cube
This is all pretty elementary stuff my dude...

>>1923215
It's just a very straightforward result of adjusting your steps so that the 20mm cube lines up well, basically the steps are compensating for some random fuckery or whatever and end up overcompensating for it when the part becomes bigger because the random fuckery part does not increase proportionally with the part size but just stays the same size.
That is why you have to adjust the steps so that they are not compensating for anything but are exactly correct and do the compensation elsewhere, like in slicer settings or in CAD.

Can someone recommend me a good glass bed for the CR-10?

I have the original one but the sticking performance is mediocre. I'm already using hairspray.
Things like tape or gluestick are out of question because this messes up the surface and the effort is too high.

When I read online, there are people who switched their original bed for a borosilicate one and they claim it's much better than the original. Is this true?

>>1922563
First print should always be a dragon dildo.
That needs to be edited into the OP

>>1923361
Should I lube him first?

>>1923247
ok nvm, found out that an original creality with textured glass exists. 30€
I have the same foe the ender 3 and its pretty good

>>1923379
is this better or the flexible magnetic bed?

>>1922437
I want to get a new printer and I was looking at the chinkshit ones. Which one is better, Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2?

>>1922503
Re: stringing: I printed a fan shroud to better manage part cooling and I think it helped. I suspect it helps cool the molten head of filament just outside the nozzle when doing the z-hop and it breaks earlier without stringing.

The one I used for my Ender 3:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8174

>>1923393
Money not being an issue, I'd go for the Pro, but if you're short the V2 can do. I have an Ender 3 (non-pro, non-V2) and I think I managed to get it to work fine. Pending a firmware upgrade though.

Any good fully enclosed printers yet?

>>1923387
depends on what you want to do.
The original magnetic flex bed is shit entirely, it fell apart pretty quickly. (delamination)
I made my own build tak flex bed with a glass fibre carrier - non magnetic. Similar to the original ender 3 bed. This is what I use all the time.

The problem is that the alu plate on the CR-10 warps because of tension between the levelling screws. Doesn't matter 95% of the time but I need some really flat prints for a project and thats where glass comes into play.

>>1923405
Looking at the official Creality website the Pro is actually cheaper.

>>1923409
I suspect marketing shenanigans to clear out stock before releasing Pro V2

>>1923413
Ah, I see.
Any upgrades worth getting from there?
I know I should get the glass plate and the BLtouch for now.

>>1923415
Non-meme upgrades I printed, in decreasing order of nonmemeitude: >>1922223
>bed knob detents
>extruder knob
>z-knob
>cablechain (in progress)
>tool holders (moot if you have a toolbox. i lent mine but kung flu restrictions make it difficult to get it back)
>screen knob, usb holders, several meme carriage and pulley covers (printed more to get to know the machine without caring if they end up ugly)

Upgrades I've heard recommended but are a bit hard to get in my mexican shithole country:
>borosilicate glass bed
>bltouch
BLTouch is considered to be a meme by some but I swear leveling the bed gets old after only a week of doing it twice daily. I guess the Pyrex bed would help but I suspect thermal shenanigans with my heating plate.
>replace the factory bowden tube with capricorn
>direct drive extruder (could print it but it's suspiciously close to the hotend)

Upgrades I can and should do:
>replace the chinese spyware fork of Marlin with vanilla parametrized Marlin
>belt tensioners

Upgrades I haven't heard doing but I'd like to try or see tried:
>replace x and y belts with leadscrews

>>1923423
Oh and I suspect the fan shroud helped with stringing

>>1923423
Thanks for the advice, anon.
I'll order it tonight and will post about it when it arrives.

>>1923426
Godspeed

>>1923426
Oh and before I forget; a filament filter and guides could help too

TLDR: How do I hovered pieces?

I want to print a bunch of stuff, and fitting them into each other to replace support structures and waste less time and filament seems to be working according to the numbers. My problem is that I don't know how to make pieces "hover", for example to replace some of the supports with cablechain covers.

>>1923521
Uncheck automatically move models to build plate or whatever it's called in settings

>>1923521
Nvm I should get into subtractive manufacturing and remove my extra chromie

What is the best 3d printer software for an Ender 3 Pro?

Currently trying to use the Creality software that came with the printer but it seems to be missing a ton of options.

>>1923585
Can't go too wrong with Cura

>>1923585
+1 for cura.

>>1923373
Yes

Is PLA+ worth the extra couple bucks?

>>1923721
Is an F250 worth the extra cost over a Ranger? If all you’re doing is driving to the grocery store, probably not. Do you need to heat treat something structural? Leave it outside? Then maybe.

That all said, there’s better filaments out there that are only marginally harder to work with than PLA+ that have much better finished properties. PET and ASA are both great and can come out of an almost stock Ender 3 just fine.

>>1923760
Not him but
>PET and ASA are both great and can come out of an almost stock Ender 3 just fine.
>almost
What would be missing? Glass bed? Hotter hotend?

>>1923777
Probably some upgrades to handle the hotter temps needed for ASA/PETG. The stock PTFE tubing starts to break down at higher temps right around what you'd need to print in those materials. An all-metal hotend would probably solve most of the issues. For ABS (ABA too?) you need an enclosure to prevent warping. As for the bed, I haven't had issues printing PETG on glass, but for some it can fuse, so read up before use.

>>1923787
>The stock PTFE tubing starts to break down at higher temps right around what you'd need to print in those materials.
Stop spreading such claims if you lack the experience.
I went thorugh kilos of 260°C nozzle temp PETG spools on an all stock Ender 3.

Bed temp 80°C (stock build tak bed on flex fiber glass carrier.)
Prints like a sewing machine.

yes, PETG warps a little more, due to the higher temp. It also has a tendency to stringing

Whatcha printing friends?

Printing off a bunch of stuff for a secret santa gift. Should be fun seeing them try to post a picture of an entire Ulvheim set up.

Should I get the ender 3 pro or the flsun qq-s pro?

>>1923890
I'd opt for the ender.
It has a huge community and is tried and proven. Great value also. Comes with lots of accessories

These low end fancy software printers like the flsun seem to have massive problems with freezing during the print and shit like that.

>>1923908
Thank you for responding,thats what Im scared of with the qq-s pro,but I've heard that with the pro version alot of problems have been solved,I dont know.if anybody else knows more about this it woulmd be nice to know.
The ender seems to be the most secure prushase apparently with alot of highly available upgrades and spare parts ,so ...

>>1923843
m8 the stock ptfe tube is not made for high temps. It works for a bit but the fumes are toxic. Everybody is saying that. Is it so hard to buy a capricorn ptfe tube?

>installed a BLTouch clone
>installation was easy
>spent all day trying to level it right
>made some grave mistakes on the way
>printing spagetti ever since
nothing is sticking to the bed.
also tried linear advance but i cant get square wave stepping to activate on the config
with manual leveling it printed perfectly fine
i'll try some more before i call it a complete meme
>tfw volcano still not shipped

>>1923939
Your BLtouch clone is obviously not leveling right

has anyone flashed a bootloader to a cr10 using a pi zero? they glued EVERYTHING together on the board.

this shit makes me turn into a bigger smoothbrain than I normally am.

>>1922830
>>1922845
why not this? I know it's two days later and already printed >>1922927 but I don't get not keeping the layout packed.

>>1923373
is that raft?

raft or skirt anons?

>>1923527
I wish to fuck cura would make this a toggle button I change this all the fucking time.

>>1923760
>that are only marginally harder to work with
that margin is exactly the break over point of stock vs. needing to modify the printer.

>>1923975
The quad layout was for the memes for the 4chins logo. Were I to reprint the lot, for example if the rest of the old hooks snap too, I would indeed do that.

>>1923978
Picrelated had a T H I C C memeraft from the original sample model that came shipped with my Ender 3. I use a raft with one full-thiccness layer each bottom, middle, top for my shit vanilla bed without additives, and either pack more models or play with the extra margin until I have no inner or concave features with a radius under 10mm.

>>1923935
Capricorn is literally just ptfe, as you said, with a smaller inner diameter for better extruder accuracy. Same temperature limit same problems. The only way around it is an all metal hot end and what you can get a basic bitch Mark 8 style (stock ender style) that's a plug and play direct swap for like 30 bucks I don't know why you wouldn't.

>>1923986
>Capricorn is literally just ptfe
Not him but literally not. Each manufacturer has their own secret blend of additives, and Capricorn is no exception, and specifically targets a higher melting point and working temperature.*

* Disclaimer: I haven't verified it. YMMV.

>>1923939
I read that 3D touch and other clones are all very hit and miss, some are perfect others are endless headaches so I when I bought mine I decided to drop the extra 20 bucks on a genuine and after the infuriating setup trying to dial the damn thing in it works perfectly and I could just hit print and walk out of the room knowing I'm not going to come back to a bird's nest.

>>1923973
like this. wtf?

>>1923993
The connections on my 3 were hot snotted too, cheap easy insurance that everything stays in place during shipping and operation for reality. Just take a small flat tip screwdriver or something and peel it off. If you have a hot air gun or even just a hair dryer that will help soften it significantly and make it easier.

>>1923990
https://www.filastruder.com/products/capricorn-ptfe-tubing?variant=45539850511
"Just like any other PTFE,DO NOT expose this tubing totemperatures exceeding260 degrees C."

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/tough-tube-high-temp-high-tolerance-ptfe-tubing/
"Recommend temp range 0-275C"

https://www.printedsolid.com/products/capricorn-xs-reduced-friction-bowden-tubing
"Generally it is not safe to bring any PTFE above 260."

https://www.captubes.com/safety.html
"250 safe? Yes. 275 safe? Maybe. 300 safe? Maybe."
Pic

I'd rather just spend the extra couple bucks and get both cap tube and an all metal and just avoid the risk all together.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going wrong with these benchys? I keep getting those bumps on the shell at the same exact spot every time. They all printed with Cura’s “Standard Quality” settings, and they all printed at 215c (I heard silk filament is best with higher temps). I messed with combing, coasting, and retractions, but it didn’t make any difference with these prints. Also, I’m using an Ender 3.

>>1923948
>>1923991
ye its either or, dont know if i leveled and sliced it right, just read that you have to include M420 S1 in your gcode start. its quite the learning experience

>>1924031
turns out i might have brain damage, the M420 S1 has apparently fixed it
even this tiny calicat without additional bed adhesion printed perfect minus the ears, printed it 10°C hotter than usual and with lowered cooling

>>1923935
I'm so tired with this stupid myth about PTFE releasing mustard gas. Really makes you think how they use it for frying pans way above 200.
Same with the myth that you can't go past 240°C with PTFE. Literal horseshit.
Or the myth that you can't print TPU with a bowden stock Ender 3.
Underaged dellitants spreading folklore online because they are unable to adjust their printer right is quite an extreme phenomenon in the 3D community.

>Everybody is saying that
ooof.

>>1923986
Absolutely no need for that. I don't know what people are doing with their printers.

>>1923998
>Recommend temp range 0-275C
Get a load of this man

>>1924045
>Really makes you think how they use it for frying pans way above 200.
>Same with the myth that you can't go past 240°C with PTFE. Literal horseshit.
Well that didn't age well

>>1923890
Lol I had to make this exact decision. The banggood sale edged it out for me. The delta is way cooler, but the ender I ordered claiming to be silent leaves faster prints as the only real advantage.

That on top of what >>1923908 said.

>>1924045
>Durr the manufacturers of the tubing are wrong! The max temperature is what I say it is! Fuck the teams of highly paid and educated engineers and chemists they don't know shit! And all of those decades of studies and immutable evidence that overheating PTFE creates nasty chemicals is all bullshit too!
Holy fuck what a retard, I guess that all but confirms PTFE fumes are a neurotoxin

spambots flaming my thingiverse account
reeeeeee

>>1924058
260°C is well above 200°C though...

>>1924058
>teflon frying pans are used widely in the consumer market
>a market full of retards putting these to 350°C on ther gas stove indoors
>a market full of companies who want to avoid lawsuits from hospitalized customers through misuse
>full of idiot customers who use metalware in teflon pans and scrape teflon in their food
If it would be that toxic it wouldn't find mass adoption in kitchens all over the world. But it sure is an exiting tale to tell in the 3D-printing-verse

If you're using high-temp filaments you should be printing in a well-ventilated room anyway.

>>1924118
I'm all for different Bowden tube providers having different PTFE formulations, but it could be undue to compare Bowden tubes to pans. Then again, they have even more different formulations. Let's please stick to datasheets for similar products.

>>1924118
We eat and drink processed meats, artificial hormones, corn syrup, microplastics and all other manner of disgusting cancer generators. Not even a healthfag hippy queer, I eat fast food and soda and other absolute garbage almost daily, but it's the truth. Do you really think there aren't things sold that are toxic if misused? Try growing some crystals some time if you don't believe me.
No one ever said they turn into toxic smoke grenades once they hit 261c and or it's more deadly than Chinese fentanyl, but to say it's all bullshit is... Well bullshit. Anyone who has 2 1/2 brain cells to rub together to be able to cook without burning their house down isn't going to get the pan hot enough to melt the Teflon off and anyone who does 1) probably won't do it again and 2) will 100% smell and taste the plastic in the food. Of course they're going to be retards that fuck it up, there always is. But just because retards end up retarding doesn't mean it gets pulled from shelves immediately, if that were the case then there wouldn't be guns and cars and knives and household chemicals and spray paint and self-service gas stations and the list goes on. The fact of the matter is people like that they're non-stick and generally they have the sense to not light them on fire so they those little to no health risk to those people and even then most people don't understand that it's a plastic coating that is able to be damaged if overheated. Also consider when you're cooking you're doing it for what, 30 minutes maybe an hour or two? Meanwhile on your 3D printer you're printing for hours at a time sometimes upward of a day or more. Finally you're forgetting these billion dollar companies hire an armada of slimy Jew lawyers to write gigantic disclaimers to absolve themselves of any responsibility, and even then good luck proving your cancer is from the one time 15 years ago you used one of their pans to fry some eggs.

>>1924112
What's your point?

>>1924204
That your image agrees with anything the guy said.

Anyone have any thoughts on how an upgraded Ender 3v2 (with stuff like metal extruder, upgraded bed, ect) would compare to a Prusa i3?

Even with all the extra shit I'd imagine the Ender would be a bit cheaper but I'm ok with spending more if an i3 is still gonna be way better.

>>1924120
Also, all-metal hotends are a thing. And they’re cheap.

>>1924206
Ok? The max temperature for Teflon coating on cookware is about 260 before it starts breaking down, the max temperature for teflon tube is about 260 before it starts breaking down. His claim that you can't exceed 240 with a lined hot end is a myth is correct, obviously you can go over 240 (even though literally no one claims the max temperature is 240, maybe the max SAFE temperature so you have some wiggle room in case your thermistor isn't entirely accurate but whatever). But then he goes on to say or imply that exceeding the recommended temperature of the ptfe tube is not dangerous and safe for high temperature printing and that 270+ is perfectly safe for ptfe, all of which is false. What I was getting at is that he implied because Teflon is used on cookware and exceeds 200°, it's perfectly fine and safe to overheat it but Teflon pans can't exceed 260 or they start breaking down the same as Teflon tube. Therefore him saying exceeding the max temperature for PTFE is safe and lined hot ends are perfectly okay for high temperature printing is fucking stupid.

>>1924212
>BTT SKR Mini driver board
>glass bed
>dual gear extruder
>metal hotend
>detent locking bed screws/heavy springs
Still not quite as good as anything Prusa but it’s a very, very good printer for the price.

>>1924235
I don't see him mentioning going above 260 anywhere.

>>1924245
Look harder

>>1923843
260 printing
>>1923935
260 is too hot
>>1924045 (him)
Ranting about overheating teflon isn't dangerous

>>1923986
Capricorn tube isnt for hi temp printing, use an all metal hot end
>>1924045 (him)
No need for that (all metal hot end)

>>1923998
*Lots of manufacturers saying 260-270 is max safe temp*
>>1924045 (him)
*Replies with contempt*

>>1924118 (him)
Retards heat their pans to 350+ so it's perfectly safe

What causes this?

>>1924278
We told you last thread with the very same picture; have you checked belt tightness on all axis?

>>1923998
but if they crank it up to 550º does it come back around to being safe again by consuming the toxic offgas in a jet of flames while printing?

>>1923993
>>1923995
There's a better way; isopropyl alcohol breaks the lock between the glue and the surface it's gluing. Just soak some on and pry off the glue.

>>1924310
only one way to find out

>>1923847
I just got new fillament, switching from Gembird PLA which was an awful thing to some based Czech Plasty Mladeč, so it's a callib cube and then I wanted to print a coffee bag clip.

>>1923847
You are setting an example for us all, anon.

>>1923993
chink shit

>>1924513
quarter way through a callib cube, holy shit get some plasty mladeč if you can, like jesus, this is pretty good out the box.

Has anyone successfully printed TPU with bowden drives?

I don't understand why PTFE tubing is necessary. Why can't you use a different type of tubing if you are concerned about high temp prints?

>>1924518
Alternatively use a full metal hotend not like a manlet.

>>1924518
>Why can't you use a different type of tubing
Physical properties. Can you suggest an alternate stiff, low-friction material that doesn't wear easily or melt?

>>1924003
Try printing much slower. I had similar results on some cheap shiny ruby-color filament where I had no such issue on plain-ass PLA, and dropping down to like 40mm/s seemed to help.

>>1924518
>Has anyone successfully printed TPU with bowden drives?
Yes, no problem. But you have to go really slow for it to work. I'm talking 18mm/s slow. TPU needs a lot more time in the hotend to liquify compared to stiffer materials.

>Why can't you use a different type of tubing
lack of affordable, low friction alternatives. Maybe direct drive printers will be more common in the future.

About to go shoot up a school bros

>>1924585
What is that?

>>1924587
Nikon D3300.

It has a picatinny rail.

>>1924585
Is that an optical recording device with a tactical assault attachment system I see?

>>1924588
For what purpose?

>>1923847

Had a thought, is it kinda retarded or really retarded?
>scale anime figures sell for 20kyen+, partly due to the process of building and also making blister molds etc
>Instead of making and selling physical models sell the files in a physical format and include paints that are the correct colours for painting for significantly less
>people still have the need to purchase, otherwise the colours they mix may not be quite right
R8 H8 BER8 my idea

>>1924588
Is that the 35mm dx lens? That was my first camera, and one of my favorite lenses to go with it as well. Nice. You need to get out of Auto though.

>>1924713
There was a time when I would say that’s stupid but I make custom phone chargers and sell them for like $60+. People spend money on fucking anything these days.

>>1924713
Does anyone care about slight color differences?
It's going to look slightly different from the photos and different lighting anyway.

>>1924721
This is trying to not match an existing market but present an in for those who can't afford the regular ones, people already spend their money on these things so a market exists kinda.
>>1924722
Doesn't matter, but it's the confirmed "official" colours that would encourage people to buy them and not just try to pirate. Resin can also be included in the package along with larger objects like an umbrella/sword that may not fit on the printer.

>>1924720
Thats the one, best combo ever. It's actually currently in A for aperture mode, not Auto.

guys i'm trying to relocate all electronics of my cartesian printer in the "underbelly" of the frame (it's an AM8 style, switching to rollers so i need the vertical extrusions free)

Only problem is the PSU, it's too thick since i have only 4cm of depth and it's 5cm...i was thinking about removing it from it's chassis and use the bare PCB inside, maybe print a lower grill to cover it a bit but i'm kinda keeping that as a last resort, maybe someone here has a better idea?

>did another G29 with the bltouch-clone
>49 probepoints
>printed a calicube
>came out better than anything else i printed with this shitty filament
its not the identical gcode but the same profile/ temps/ filament
the problem sat between the chair and the monitor

>>1924731
> maybe someone here has a better idea?
Yeah, don't. Why don't you instead buy or print some feet to pick up the whole printer and then you can mount the box under there just fine. Make sure to leave an area for the fan to draw in air and if you do it with the fan facing upwards also print out a guard to put over it so it's not sucking up string and filament bits.

>>1924779
turns out i couldn't even do that since the caps themself are as tall as the whole chassis, yeah i'm designing a PSU caddy right now to have it lower than the frame

>>1924787
>>1924731
You did well with keeping the chassis on. If you shuck the PSU, you'll have to dress it again in another metal chassis or at least metal separators in order to keep the bad RF juju in and away from the rest of the boards, and in order to avoid accidentally the capacitors with something else.

>>1923247
>>1923379
yeah so i fucked my CR10V2 carborundum plate up by removing a part at 55°C, which was in the process of detaching on its own after printing.
(seems like the center portion of a plate i was printing was not detached yet while the outer areas already were)
i just had been impatient so some of the coating and even a little bit of glass broke and stuck to the bottom of the piece.
so i just turned the plate around and i am printing on smooth glass now for a while, using water soluble bio gluestick from the local grocery store and i like it very much
i was used to the rough surface pattern that the carborundum layer leaves in the prints but since when i had the first part with a smooth underside i never want to go back
that said i have not noticed any major differences in being able to remove prints earlier or anything else except the "flatness" of the "underside" of the print.
with the coated plate you still have to wait until the bed has cooled down
same as with the regular glass.
i only print in petg on plain glass with gluestick since some months now.
before i used gluestick on the coated plate too (yes even when the "accident" happened)
i am convinced too that the coated side is not 100% flat
measured for hours and hours through pronterface/marlin grid probing and fine tuned it with the adjustment wheels at all nine probing spots with +/- 0.05mm and between the probing spots there are definitely valleys at two spots where the filament has a harder time to stick because there is negative space when doing the first layer there, had to experiment a little to get the spots right and now i just apply two more "gluestick layers" at those spots, works nice
really like normal glass :-)

>>1923998
is there reallv a need for ptfe tubes with direct drive extruders ?
i went from bowden to direct drive a little ago and i am wondering ever since i simply can cut me 400mm piece of threaded rod and drill a 1,8mm hole in the middle to replace the ptfe
maybe i will try it on the weekend, already bought a 1/8" die to carve the M10 rod i can solely buy over here to fit the threads inside the heat sink
only need a longer drill, the one i have is too short
thinking about it i probably should just go and buy a M10 aluminium rod instead maybe my drill will survive this more likely...
hmmm

>>1924118
>If it would be that toxic it wouldn't find mass adoption
how do the bugs taste anon ?

>>1924197
based and long-term-heat-impact pilled wall of text
it was a pleasure reading it.
i sincerely hope you have a nice day anon

>>1924698
Underrated

>>1924818
If you have an all metal hotend, not really it's only there to guide it the half inch from the extruder to the heat break
If it's a lined hot end and then obviously yes because otherwise you're trying to shove a 1.75mm filament into a .4 mm hole while trying to keep it straight and rigid inside a 4 mm pathway.

>>1924821

>>1924818
And let me add that trying to use a rod or something in a lined hot end will just result in jams because it won't be able to adequately seal to the bottom and you will end up with molten plastic inside your hot end. Not to mention an important property of the PTFE tube is how little friction it has, a metal guide even on in all metal hotend will certainly cause issues from a catching on the filament and shaving off little bits that could affect extrusion consistency or jam the hot end.

>>1924003
The 'bumps' you're referring to are just the z-seam. Look for z-seam hiding in Cura settings, but I wouldn't worry about those too much.

Just getting started with SLA, I've started out with some Anycubic resin which works pretty well, but coming from FDM clean up is a pain, hammering through IPA....Is water washable resin any good, and if so, any particular brand etc?
Thanks bros

I made a glow in the dark controller for the Pico 8 fantasy console. O, X, and pause

Anyone have a few solid recommendations for translucent resin? Ideally something biased towards totally clear/white, but as long as it remains pretty clear up to 2-3mm thick I'd probably be fine with it. Though it'd be nice, I'm not particularly concerned with it yellowing over time, I'm mostly wanting it to be non-warping and with a robust cure so I don't have to deal with offgassing/surface properties too much

Whats better for large prints?

Phenom or Phrozen Transform

>>1924752
>the problem sat between the chair and the monitor
I call it a chair-keyboard interface issue

>>1922437
>FreeCAD
>Change the depth of a pocket
>Breaks a Pad mapped to the pocket's face, gives the multiple solids error
>Sketch validator doesn't do shit
>Fine, I'll delete it and re-do it
>delete Pad
>Everything else in the model starts to fucking break
Autodesk, here I come.

>>1925020
>freecad/autodesk
>not using openscad
PEBKAC

does a cracked version of fusion360 exist?

Just got my Ender 3 V2 today. How's my first print? It was printed with factory settings. There are some strings, steps and the tips are a bit messy. Going to upgrade the firmware and print a benchy or something next.

>>1925020
> dependencies

>>1925119
tighten your belts to reduce those layer lines

>>1925129
Thanks I'll give it a shot. I'm trying to compile the new nightly firmware but I'm getting these errors.

>>1924529
How low friction does it really need to be?
Also, there are many cheap, heat resistant low friction coatings.

>>1924558
How about a volcano hot end with a bowden?
Does it work and allow for faster printing of TPUs?

>>1924698
well Pepe'd
This needs to be a permanent part of the board.

>>1925119
>How's my first print?
Something went horribly wrong with your dragon dildo print. That is not at all how it should look.

>>1924813
thanks for your insight
I'll get my coated glass plate today and I'll let you guys know how it goes.

>with the coated plate you still have to wait until the bed has cooled down
Not an issue for me. I will use build tak most of the time. I only need it for some special things.

>gluestick
Yea I bought a glue stick with my printer but I never used it. I need to do a lot of very large footprint prints, I don't have the time to glue stick the whole thing each run.

>I'm convinced too that the coated side is not 100% flat
More like the alu plate isn't flat and the glass takes some of that curvature by clamping it down

>probing spots with +/- 0.05mm
Hmm your printer can't measure such accurate values. The roughness of the v-rollers etc ruin such a tolerance.
I hope my glass plate comes without dents

Anyone print a cock cage? What one did you use?

>>1925146
It works just like one though

Post link to dragon dildo

>>1925141
>bowden
why do you want to stick with a bowden setup?
depending on your printer there are printable DD adapters
>>1925133
>stm32f1
from looking at the creality website the mainboard has tcm2208 steppers, so its probably the atmega1284p board, "silent motherboard v1.1.5", so basically the thing used in normal ender3s before the 32-bit change. try out this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbbzsJBpEhc
if you want to be sure just open up the mainboard-case and look if it says atmega or stm32 on the biggest chip

>>1925158
Thanks I'll try it again in a bit. I flashed the regular 1.0.2 from Creality so I could print a benchy.

>>1925157
I comes up on a search for the term.
The link should be in the OP...

>>1925158
>why do you want to stick with a bowden setup?
>depending on your printer there are printable DD adapters
What is a DD adapter?

I have never used a bowden, but I am interested in the theoretical speed of delta printers, which as far as I know only work with bowden.

>>1925163
"Direct Drive" adapter.

Anyone know why Octopi won't connect to the Ender 3? Tried some combinations of /dev/tty and baudrates, but no luck

>>1925163
>What is a DD adapter?
Dragon Dildo adapter

>>1925141
>How about a volcano hot end with a bowden?
>Does it work and allow for faster printing of TPUs?
If you are serious about printing TPU, a direct drive extruder should be superiour to bowden. Bigger nozzle should also help.

I don't know if a volcano would help to print faster. I think you can't go fast because of the chemical plastification behaviour of the material itself, but I'm no materials expert. TPU will always be a lot slower than PLA

What do you want to do with TPU?

I have trouble connecting to the serial of my chiron. Does anyone know what baud rate and settings should I use for 1.3.5 firmware?

>>1925162
>>1925157
workupload com (forwardslash) file (forwardslash) M4Spva3Bbxv

have at it

>>1925191
Can't help you on the firmware settings, but iirc the baudrate should be 115200.

>>1925195
The problem is I'm getting only garbage in the console. Could the cable be faulty?

>>1925199
It's been ages since I did this kinda thing myself. It might not be the cable, my google-fu shows others are having issues too.

is it worth getting a bl touch?

>>1925129
Here's my 2nd print after tightening the belts a bit. It came out much better than before.

I've had several years of academic experience with CAD software ranging from Autodesk suite, Solidworks, CATIA, Abaqus, NX/Unigraphics, etc.; despite this, I've hardly used CAD in a professional setting. I think it is high time I put my skills to use and make some money for myself. Is "CAD Technician" the appropriate job title for entry into the profession? I have an industrial engineering degree, but the Great Plague of Human Resources has determined I am some form of undesirable that should never be contacted or recognized for any entry engineering position. May they rot in hell, I need to put some food on the table.

>>1925215
very nice, the imperfections could be woes in the filament
>>1925209
maybe
if your bed is plane its not worth it, setting it up and dialing it in takes way longer than hand-leveling it once a month.
if your bed is as wobbly as the one that came with my e3p it sure helps, even a clone is worth it
>>1925216
>academic experience with CAD
so you did some blocks and enclosures in uni?
my first job title was "design engineer", i designed automotive cad parts in catia v5 in an entry position.
prior to that i had to take a 10-week course that got me up to a professional level, without that nobody wanted to hire me.
the problem is that you generally learn so little in uni that you wont be able to make parts complex enough and with the right workflow.
on top of that easy- to moderately hard jobs get outsourced to some draftmonkey in asia.
thats my personal experience from being an mech.e in germany, despite that best of luck with getting your career started

>>1925222
>very nice, the imperfections could be woes in the filament
I was thinking that too. I'm using the stuff it came with until my spool arrives.

>>1925216
>academic experience with CAD
aka you have no real world experience. Do you use it as a hobby? How good and fast are you?

>CATIA and NX
Good! these two are the standards in automotive. NX is pushing away Catia more and more.

>Is "CAD Technician" the appropriate job title
Never heard that. Call it "CAD engineer". If you lack the degree call it CAD expert/designer.
Its also a question whether you are looking for jobs where you actively design stuff out of your own ideas or if you are just the developers monkey to imply his orders.
Do you have experience in manufacturing, such as real world injection molding tool design?

>industrial engineering
At least you have the "engineer" title.

> but the Great Plague of Human Resources has determined I am some form of undesirable that should never be contacted or recognized for any entry engineering position. May they rot in hell, I need to put some food on the table
Stop blaming others for your poor market performance you insecure piece of shit.
I am surrounded by a lot of people who just got the job because of their golden mouth but have zero idea what they are doing.

IF you have the skill you are able to present references in the interview. Good CAD people are always sought after in my field. If you are good, you will get a job.

>>1925222
No jokes about outsourcing to Asia - the majority of my CAD professors were directly from Korea and China at both universities I attended, and I participated in a two-week intensive study for CATIA+Abaqus in Busan where 90% of the native students were pursuing marine design engineering degrees or something related.

I am unfortunately strapped for cash, so a costly 10-week course will be out of my grasp for the time being. I understand there is difficulty in attempting to "pick up" the desired skillset for managing highly complex parts and defacto commercial workflows. There do not seem to be adequate resources online for self-teaching to that caliber of work; I feel I have already reached a plateau for practice difficulty by searching "3D modeling practice examples" and creating parts and assemblies from the available images and PDFs. I crave something more engaging and challenging to push myself further.

>>1924278
In my case it was some sort of failure to extrude. It happend around three times successively on my last print, two times I saw the gears have eaten into the filament, but there was no obvious clogging. I did have the filament running through a 1m PTFE tube straight out of the packaging temporarily, in addition to a way too tight 5cm grommet through my LACK enclosure. I ended up removing the tube, and it still happened again. In the end, I the print was successful, but this issue is strange, because I ran the printer in this setup with PLA, PETG, and TPE for days. It only cropped up yesterday. Changed nozzles, loosened and tightened the idler, nothing got rid of it immediately. I hope my final reverse bowden setup won't have this issue.

I'm looking for a 3D printer which has dual extrusion around the £1000 - £1500 bracket. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience with such a printer? Thanks in advance.

>>1925233
>What do I use it for
Essentially nothing for the past couple of years. Last I used it was a when my buddy gave me his old Prusa.

>Speed
Currently, probably poor as I haven't stuck to a specific CAD software in years after determining it is like learning a programming language - understand the high-level concepts first, then worry about language-specific syntax later when you decide which language will best serve your design requirements. I was very quick with AutoCAD and Inventor back in high school though, winning 1st in a state competition for 3D parametric assembly modeling. I'd say I'd be 85% that speed within a week on any CAD software if I knew which application to focus on.

>What would I use it for
I don't currently have particular projects for myself in mind, so I would likely be a dev monkey for awhile. I've worked as an injection molding engineering intern for an automotive part manufacturer, and I've also been a CNC lathe operator bitch boy making small adjustments, changing tooling, etc., so at least some real world exposure to manufacturing.

>Stop blaming others
No. My problems are my fault, but a lot of my problems are also due to other peoples' faults. You said yourself that some people have golden mouths and no clue what they are doing, and that is evidence enough to me that the "wrong" people can avoid being screened out, and that the "right" people are sometimes fenced out.

>>1925248
maybe and no
for 1500 bongdollars you can order 5 of these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoGpmob0-uI

Sorry for shitty pic, but here's my 3rd print. Looks good except the bottom is over extended for some reason. I think my bed or extruder temps are a bit high?

gee, wonder whats in that box creality sent me

>>1925403
hmmmmm

>>1925405
is that the new foam build plate I've been hearing about?

>>1925409
Extra compliant for buckling hotplates

>>1925405
is that considered NSFW or is it art?
and a new hotbed

>>1925409
>>1925413
may the new glass make prints stick on my CR-10 and keep em flat

>NSFW or is it art?
Its NSFW art

>>1925417
the glass bed is nice, the prints are so smooth underneath

>>1925240
>reverse bowden
Just googled that, sounds real noice, may try it even for my indirect extruder

>>1922752
>Spamanon here; even with a raft, if I have a sharp corner or u-turn on the first layer the filament curls up
News update: I tried increasing printing temp to 210°C and slowing down print speed to 10mm/s on the first raft layer and first layer after raft and seems to start helping; definitively helped for the first raft layer. May decrease the airgap for the first layer after raft on next print.

>>1925422
It's good stuff. I got a similar one for the Ender 3 and made god tier TPU phone cases with it

>>1925430
Looks nice, congrats! Is that grid of bumps due to a textured glass bed, intersections in the layers, a deliberate design?

>>1925442
The bumps are from the glass texture. But it's barely noticable when you look at it. Surface feels very smooth.

I cant get this fucking pi zero to burn the bootloader, its not showing up right in device manager, and I'm pulling my hair out from this shit. I'm trying to use the TH3D firmware but nothing is working according ot the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SZXXBCVhMk

I know blogpost, spoon-feeding etc., but this thing has been a nightmare.

>>1925520
what have you done, and what is not working, post logs.

>>1925534
im using the stock TH3D download.
cr10 v1 piece of shit
pi zero w

https://pastebin.com/YC6yAMwi

>>1925541
> #error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin."
Have you looked at this?

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10806
> Just get the new Configuration.h and manually change the options according to the old values you used before

>>1925541
how the pi zero shows up in device manager. I'm trying to learn, but I'm just a basic retard with not enough brains to give up.

the TH3D thing is supposed to be JuSt WeRkZ!!!!!!

>>1925546
What exactly are you trying to do with the rpi? You need to burn the firmware to your printer, not to the rpi.

>>1925550
>>>1925546 (You)
>What exactly are you trying to do with the rpi? You need to burn the firmware to your printer, not to the rpi.
ok, so i need to wire it up, before I try to upload it to the board? im sorry but this is so alien to me. im a smoothbrain.

>>1925430
Looks really clean, nice

>>1925554
You need to be able to compile that thing first, which has nothing to do with the rpi.
The rpi is jsut another computer, just like your laptop/desktop. All it's going to do is upload to the printer. You can connect your printer to you computer and not even bother with the rpi.

>>1925562
I've been told I try that on this board, and it will brick the CR10, unless it has the bootloader.

>>1925578
What do you think needs the bootloader, the rpi or the chip on the CR10

Had a 40h print going and the power went out at 10hours. Resumed the print, cool. But the layers are shifted. Why?

>>1925562
>>1925550
>>1925543
>>1925534
>>1925589
thank you for the help, but I'm done with this shit. I'm selling it, and I dont care about the loss. I'm so disappointed in this thing. its like a fucking french or italian car. breaks every 5 minutes or never worked right from the get go.

I wont buy another one either. this has scratched the itch of a having my own money pit.

>>1925430
How did you donl the multi-color part? Two prints and pasted in?

I designed a game inspired by connect 4, 3 score. Drop tokens and try to get 3 in a row.

>>1925602
Because Lord Volta hates you

>>1925181
Where can I buy one?

>>1925182
>What do you want to do with TPU?
Print realistic, custom dildos on demand and quickly for use at large orgy parties.

printed a wrist rest with wood filament
i thought it would be annoying to print but i just used the same settings as normal pla and had no issues

>>1925180
Worked for me with no issues. Watch another tutorial and try again I guess

Alright guys, I'm using Cura on my Robo R2 and getting this texture on a perfectly cylindrical tube, any idea what setting requires changing? I'm used to MatterControl on my R1+ and I have no fuggin idea what a good portion of these extra settings in Cura actually do.

>google it noob

Yeah no troubleshooting posts I've seen hit this specific issue

>>1925771
May be temperature related. Have you tried reducing print speed or increasing minimum layer time?

>>1925771

Looks like a bent screw to me.

>>1925618
Cute, show print

>>1925778
Yes, that was my first guess. It happens whether I print one or ten of the same thing on the plate, which is what's making me guess on some silly slicer setting that I don't understand. Now that I'm looking at my other prints, it happens on all of my perimeters.

>>1923847
The chimney on that benchy looks weird anon

>>1925605
Yeah its two parts assembled later. One out of black TPU and the other of green TPU. The inner green parts are again small bits put in the black piece.

>>1925649
You can't 3D-print a useable dildo. You can print a positive, sand the edges and make a negative mould for silicon casting.
>beeing this new

>>1925792
>not getting high on rectally-administered TPU offgassing
>not partaking in P2P gut fauna development
At that point why live

>>1925781
Have you tried other slicers on the very same printer? If not, or if the problem continues, have you tried other layer heights?

>>1925743
I think my USB port is fucked. Going to try to connect it to the PC and see if it detects it.

what exactly is the purpose of the bowden tube?
why can't I just leave it out and have the filament travel between the extruder and the hotend uncovered?

>>1925802
The filament will bend out and get yote because it's easier to bend out of the way than to advance into the hotend. The bowden tube constraints travel length so pushing filament into the tube forces the other end into the hotend.

Please goto Wikipedia or at least $SEARCHENGINE.

>>1922473
Hygroscopic, not hydroscopic.

Threadly reminder that Creality is shit

>>1925824
i had problems with an e3p in the past, but why are you saying this? bait or 4real?

>>1925826
For real chap, CR-10S pro V2 died after 2 hours of printing straight out of the box.

>>1925834
What died? The mainboard?

>>1925795
The only one easily compatible with it is the Robo edition of Cura, I'll probably explore other slicers down the road because I can't stand it. I've tried several different heights and I'm always pulling that texture

>>1925824
without them, home 3D printing would not be where it is today.
I can't complain about my creality printers at all. Sure there are better ones around, but at a different price point.

>>1925834
?????

>>1925771
>>1925779 +1

>>1925771
Picture of that print side-by-side with the Z-screw?

Is it true that undyed plastics will be stronger than their dyed versions? For example petg is naturally clear, so will clear versions be inherently stronger than colored versions? Discounting different formulations and variations of course.

>>1925928
My machine prints very true to dimension, just textured

I tried dicking with a couple settings, mainly "Outer walls first" and that took care of some of the texture but made the exterior look like ass. Fuckin love Cura

>>1925956
The texture's period coincides with twice the thread distance. I strongly suspect a bent screw. Could you try taking it out and checking whether it rolls uniformly on a flat surface? Maybe a stone or glass counter or something like that, or maybe the printer bed itself if calibrated, preferrably not a wooden table.

>>1925962
If that is the case, do you believe that this blue plug used to hold the screw stable is actually doing more harm than good? It's designed to have some slack and doesn't fit tightly without the plug whatsoever

>>1925971
I would actually be more worried if it did fit tightly. But you could try removing it and trying again.

>>1925962
Based investigatory and helpful anon.

>>1925971
The ender 3 has an unretained z-screw and people have noted that putting a retainer on the top of it can lead to Bent screws if everything isn't aligned perfectly, so I just opted to not bother and I don't think it has any noticeable effect on prints. So if your printer had an unretained z-screw and then you put that retainer on it, it could have bent it for misalignment. If this is the case and you're lucky the screw is just flexing at regular intervals and if you pop off the retainer it will go back to normal.

>>1925995
I took the plug out mid-print for this next one, I'll see if it changes anything. Also, apparently this is a very common problem with the R2 as the whole Z-axis assembly is attached to a thin plastic piece. I notice as it prints it moves up and down quite noticeably, which I'm not too happy about. There is a fix for this on Thingiverse which I am currently printing on my other printer that I will try once completed.

>>1926000
Pic of the new layers so far?

>>1926012
>>1926000
The z-screw jumped free and impaled poor anon </3

>>1925792
>You can't 3D-print a useable dildo. You can print a positive, sand the edges and make a negative mould for silicon casting.
Fine. I will do that, but what is the fastest way to print that type of TPU dildo positive?
That is what I am interested in exploring.

>>1925794
>TPU offgassing
TPU offgassing exists? What does it off gas and how much?

>>1925805
>Please goto Wikipedia or at least $SEARCHENGINE
But, what is the purpose of a Wikipedia or a $SEARCHENGINE?
Why can't I just avoid using them?

>>1925939
Depends what the color additive is.

>>1925771
Could be an extruder gear that is not perfectly central to the central hole, print a wider shaft and see if the spacing of the wider parts on the z-axis changes, if it does, you'll need a new extruder gear, I suggest you buy a western brand name gear.

>>1925780
Almost done printing the last tokens, I'll post it soon.

>>1926078
Stick some up your poophole and tell us what you find out

>>1926075
Why would you make it out of tpu? That's about the worst thing you can do cuz not only will it take four times as long to print but it is also more likely to deform using it to make the casting medium. Just make it out of pla, fast and easy.

>>1926087
Well do continue, don't leave us hanging

>>1926075
Tight layers, thickish wall, 5% to 10% infill, high temperature, postprocess it to sand it, preferably get it as smooth as possible. The negative will pick up imperfections in the positive.

>>1925780
Here you go.

>>1926139
Congrats anon, looks nice!

>>1926084
You may find your ansquers quicker than here

>>1925962
>>1925956
It may also be the extruder gear. Print a cylinder of a smaller diameter (~70%) on top of another cylinder. Check if the distance between deformations changes. If it stays constant, then it's a Z-axis problem. If it changes, then it's an extruder gear eccentricity problem.

>>1923847
Could you post the model for this? I'd like to print my friend one since he's one of those fantasy dragon guys

Can I 3D print an entire car? (In pieces of course.)

Is the Ender 3 direct drive conversion kit up to par with the Creality direct drive kit?

>>1926181
It's on cults3d, but those faggots require you to have an account.

>>1926139
Cool! How did you print the main body? Flat in two pieces?

>>1926327
can you post pics or a link for that?
i printed a direct drive adapter from thingiverse and am using that with a pancake motor
>>1926322
yes, search on youtube
>>1926075
print the positive out of pla, petg or abs. If you don't want to sand it there is a pla called polysmooth pla that can be smoothed in alcohol vapor

>>1926338

just picked up one of these so i can sleep peacefully while the printer is on

>>1926129
I think you are a retard. The off gassing occurs mostly after polymerization, not as a result of printing.

>>1926132
The discussion was about how I could possibly print the TPU dildos fastest by modifying a delta printer and or bowden drive extruder to achieve the best theoretical speed.

>>1926130
>Well do continue, don't leave us hanging
It is to esoteric and complex to discuss here. Best to do a ton of research if you really want to know

>>1926328
Im not making an account. Any other download link?

>>1926339
yes, those cheap knockoff plates work just as well as the original
same with the knockoff bmg extruders, i got mine for 9€ or so

>>1926376
I made an account, but it's a paid model.
I'll wait and see if the OP of the post will mirror it. If not I'll buy it and share

If I don't intend to print flexible, should I just stay with bowden to keep my printhead light?

>>1926341
>not having a dedicated 3D-printing room

>>1926341
>not being a fan of HARDCORE white noise

anyone got a clue what the white crystals in pic related might be ?

i fear its that teflon posion gas stuff
(started to print petg and printed at 240 with ptfe vs. nozzle inside hotend, went down to 230 after a week or so)

>>1926538
Looks like corrosion on the metal parts and the plastic breaking up

>>1926547
thanks
i went further into the disassembly process
if it would be corrosion mustn't it be corroded inside as well ?

do you maybe know how it looks when ptfe tube dissolves into this posion gas stuff ?
during disassembly i tuned the hotend and the alibi heatbrake to 180 and it discharged white smoke

>>1926547
ahh anon you are probably correct
i watched some videos about aluminium corrosion and just wiped it off with some paper towels
underneath the heat sink was fogged so i put on some isopropyl alchohol and wiped it off now its shiny again
it probably was aluminium oxidation judging from what i saw here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeFTEzeX56k
and here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q8cbcja0ns

thanks for your time anyways

>>1926490
That doesn't stop a fire

would it be possible to 3d print this https://schuebeler-store.de/DS-215-DIA-HST-195mm/en it's just a motor and a fan, I'd save $4k. would abs work or would I need something stronger?

>>1926615
>3D-printing an motorb
No.
>3D-printing a very fancy fan
Given that they're using fancy carbon and such, no, ABS won't work, and given that it costs 4K, I doubt you have the design capabilities to design your fan accordingly.

>>1926615
I can't speak to the ideal material for that, but you're gonna have a rough time building a model of that fan without good measurements/ reference.

And if you're asking on here about trying to skimp out on something like that i kinda doubt you'd have an easy time even with a reference

Dude what the fuck, I printed that pistol grip in the OP for my AR like a month ago...

>>1926630
It's almost as if things you upload to the internet get saved, wow.

>>1926617
What about polycarbonate or 3d printed carbon? I want 40 lbs thrust.
>>1926620
Surely it's not that hard to design a simple fan?

>>1926445
You can do tpu on Bowden, just even slower than dd.
Unless you're shooting for meter per minute print speeds a dd kit shouldn't add such significant weight that it will limit your speed in any practical way.

>>1926647
>Unless you're shooting for meter per minute print speeds
And if I am shooting for a meter per minute print speeds?

I want to print a **dick sheath**, but I will need it to have ventilation. How can I achieve this with post processing?
I don't want to print the ventilation holes, because it will lead to more abrasive and uneven edges where I do not want them.

>>1926615
It should be easy to print cheaply if you spend the time to get it right.

>>1926644
>What about polycarbonate or 3d printed carbon? I want 40 lbs thrust.
You can't afford a printer that can print PC, and printers for ''carbon'' don't exist.
>Surely it's not that hard to design a simple fan?
Simple fan? Not hard. 40lbs thrust fan? Fuck yeah. Take a simple course on aerodynamics and CFD, try not to cry, come back, and try and say that again.

>>1926650
Minmax everything, go for the lightest possible printhead, so yes, bowden. 1000mm/s is pretty damn hard though, and reaching it with somewhat sane acceleration is near impossible.
Instead of printing small and fast, if you want to be actually fast, print fat and slow. A 5mm nozzle with a 3mm layer height at 50mm/s has roughly ten times the flowrate of a 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height at 1000mm/s (which you won't reach, because acceleration).

>>1926650
Well then obviously you want a bowden set up with the lightest possible carriage and lowest possible friction rails or rods as well as an extremely powerful heater to keep up with the demand and probably a dual gear extruder to keep it from slipping at such extreme speeds. A larger nozzle might also help you out reducing the feed and extrusion pressure allowing you to push out a high volume of filament. You also probably want a z bed instead of a y bed because it's going to be much heavier than your carriage and not having your carriage be the z does wonders for accuracy.

>>1926643
I said I printed it, I never uploaded it here.

>>1926653
PC just needs a high temp hotend upgrade and an enclosure
>printers for "carbon" don't exist
Ok but you know what I mean
>Take a simple course on aerodynamics
I know some aerodynamics, lift equation, airfoil angle of attack, I got this.

>>1926651
You mean a foreskin?

>>1926644
Consider that fan is going to have an edge speed of almost 345 mph at Max speed

>>1926667
ABS is pretty tough, it can handle it.

>>1926337
Standing up with supports. In one piece, but the slide was printed separately.

>>1926684
Homogeneous injection molded abs sure, but will printed and be able to hold onto itself? Vapor smoothing might help.

>>1926644
>>1926664

>>1926653
As this other guy mentioned, if you were just doing a basic fan, then yeah basic knowledge of aerodynamics would be fine, but that fan is far from basic.

Part of the problem is the scale too, even if you could print out a decent 'inner' part of the fan blades to cover with sheets of carbon fiber & epoxy or something, it would be a ton of effort to get it clean enough to not throw its self apart at 20k rpm

The big question though, do you actually need a fan with those specs? if so, then yeah, normal 3d printing isnt gonna cut it.

If you're really committed to doing something like that though, I've seen people have success doing DIY propellers using foam covered in fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets with epoxy, but thats at a much larger scale and like 2 blades not 12

>>1926704
>Homogeneous injection molded abs sure, but will printed and be able to hold onto itself?
Bake it in salt

Are there any decent 3D scanners that aren't 6x the cost of my printer? I've been approached by a local small business that makes custom hearing aids, listening devices and other such things. They want to able to get their custom shells back faster than they currently do. Currently they make a silicone relief and then send it off to a company that prints the shells from resin. Issue they have is it takes months to get the custom shell back and even then it sometimes isn't right. So they want to be able to scan their reliefs and print their own shells. They originally tried to achieve this with some shit DaVinci printer that had a scanner. Long story short the scanner was trash and the printer isn't much better. I've already recommended them printers, but Im not seeing pretty much any decent scanner that cost less than $1500 or even $2000.

>>1926728
I know kinnects are very popular for 3D spacial stuff, but it might be too low res for what you're looking for

New Thread
>>1926761

>>1926664
>PC just needs a high temp hotend upgrade and an enclosure
They need an actively heated enclosure, or they'll warp like made. You've clearly never even printed with the stuff, nevermind whatever carbon-filled stuff you're implying.

>>1926647
I'm not shooting for ultra high print speeds, just vibration free walls at 40mm/s
I imagine increasing the print head weight on the X gantry will induce some horrific vibrations on every corner and detail

>>1925771
bent z-axis screw by the look of it possibly?

>>1926341
work great, i have one, wish I'd have bought it sooner.