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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1704469 No.1704469 [Reply] [Original]

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1695136

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

>> No.1704513

>>1704469
TE isn't as good at the slotting part in the corners, chatters like the guhring diver

>> No.1704525

>>1704469
What cheap indexable boring bar set should I buy for my tiny south bend 9a? I'm tired of brazing random HSS to bars

I see ebay has zillions of ultra cheap CCMT and other sets, do they suck as much as they seem like they would?

>> No.1704528

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDoY8KoR2qs

>> No.1704530

>>1704525
yeah pretty much

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuaQkE5uzuA

>> No.1704537

>>1704530
seems pretty good for hobby use actually better than expected.

>> No.1704541

>>1704537
yeah you say that now until you try good inserts

>> No.1704558

>>1704525
I got a grizzly set. nothings has broken yet but otherwise it's about what you would expect from chinese crap.

>> No.1704606

>>1704537
see >>1703074 in previous thread. I used some chinese OD turn inserts too. Trigonal I think is the term for that style? Absolute shit. They didn't chatter but they didn't last like a good name brand insert would either. they would cut good for the first 2 or 3 parts, then 'acceptable' up till 25th or 30th part, then it would scrap a part and I'd have to flip it with the face of the insert being completely and utterly wiped. they'd have me changing the offsets every 5 parts to meet otherwise wide open tolerances. Could only just barely maintain a .005 +/- tolerance with the things because they'd wear down after every part.

This was with copious amounts of flood coolant as well.

>> No.1704732

>>1704469
Shit, I think I might actually finish up this order on schedule.

Oh and in case anyone missed it, the new Kennametal TE tool that titan was showing off was a bit disappointing, it reminded me of the guhring diver but a little better.

The Harvi 1 HPHV just handled the chipload of full radial engagement slotting combined with changing direction better.

>> No.1704758

Cheap good tools?

For aluminum, I really like the 3/4" diameter Widia 3 flute HSS ripper with the TiCN coating. Costs less than 90 leafbucks and it's been rolling at 1.63" depth of cut with 0.1" width at 7500RPM and 400 inch/min. It's an over 20 horsepower cut removing over a full cubic inch per second. I tried going faster but she stalled cold. 7075 T6 alu btw.

Also I got a no-name 1" diameter HSS drill from PTS for like 40 leafbucks with a 3/4" shank, I send it through 1.75" alu at 2500RPM and 50 inches per minute, takes ~18 horsepowers and I'd drive it faster but I think she'd snap right half in two. Tool life on both that drill and that endmill is unknown as they've both been going strong for months, not worn out yet.

Don't buy the expensive stuff if you don't have to. Titan shill vids are great if you have a machine that can actually run it hard enough to be worth it.

>> No.1704789

Time to get a 5 axis machine just so i can do this
https://youtu.be/OTMUnI3otwU?t=184

>> No.1704836

>>1704469
I'm the guy who started these threads. Thanks OP for carrying on.

>> No.1704867

Just how shit is the average 10x22" chinese variable speed benchtop lathe compared to 9" south bend/boxford lathes with the typical amount of wear on them?
What is the best new chinese benchtop lathe in this range?
Sorry if these are bad questions

>> No.1704894

>>1704867
Literal garbage, and people who say otherwise are trying to justify their overpriced chink machines.

Will a chink machine be useful and productive?
Sure
Do you get much more for much less money waiting it out and buying old iron?
Absolutely

>> No.1704929

>>1704789
>tfw no 5 axis machine to make giant aluminum dicks

>> No.1704944

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBa1wDv-6bU

>> No.1704948

>>1704758
it's worth buying good small diameter tools and if your order is more than a few parts you may want the tool life.

>> No.1705064

>>1704894
The need of a pallet jack, lift gate, or other lifting devices makes this even more difficult. At least you can team lift chinkshit

>> No.1705073

>>1704867
I've had both. The southbend will leave much better surface finishes and be far more rigid. But, you have the chance of getting a heavily worn machine.YMMV. a 12x46 on the other hand, will blow up to a southbend 10 out of the water, but not the heavy 10, which will be more rigid. That being said, my 12x46 has a gap bed, where the heavy 10, and 13 will dissappoint you.

>> No.1705077

>>1705064
I've solo carried a Seneca Falls star 11 into my garage, and put it in the back of my volvo 240 stationwagon(It's on the upper end of what you should put in the back). I had a trailer behind it to bring my 12x46 home, both are of comparable weight, but the 12x46 is a far more capable machine, especially with the d1-3 spindle as opposed to the threaded spindle. Another downside with the older machines which weren't the larger work oriented ones, is that threaded spindle which you can't machine with the spindle going counterclockwise on.

>> No.1705108

I know engineering alloy steels like EN19/4140 and EN24/4340 are supposed to still be easy to mill when pre-hardened but how easy is it to file or grind compared with say MS?

>> No.1705117

>>1705108
"Pre-hard" 4140 is still only like 30-35 Rockwell C, it files fine

>> No.1705166

nobody wants to answer my question in the stupid questions thread, maybe one of you guys can answer
when reading about heavy machine tools, everyone will always say that aluminum extrusions, steel plate, etc shouldn't be used to frame things like lathes or mills because they don't have enough damping to negate the vibrations of using the tool, which will give you bad tolerances and surface finish. yet people like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzytexbrdlg are able to achieve good surface finish and high precision using scrap. how is this possible? I thought machine tool frames needed to be heavy for parts to be reasonably accurate.

>> No.1705184

>>1705166
There's a difference between hobby machines and industrial machines. You can build a reasonably strong hobby lathe that might even be able to do some light job work.

However if it's gonna do real machinist shit it needs to be like one to two tons of cast iron per horsepower. You can tell what machine is made to do what by its weight most of the time. There are plenty of good machines that aren't that heavy but are still good, like Robodrills and shit, but they're not made for extremely heavy material removal. Like I've worked on an Okuma milling machine with a cat50 spindle and a low gear, it could do multiple cubic inches of 4140 PER SECOND. It wasn't moving fast but it was just pissing the man glitter chunks out.

>> No.1705226 [DELETED] 

>>1705184
>it could do multiple cubic inches of 4140 PER SECOND

even a haas vf2 can do that

>> No.1705228

>>1705184
>multiple cubic inches of 4140 PER SECOND

I don't believe that.

>> No.1705234

>>1705228
I should have taken vids of the 6" facemill 0.5" deep cut doing 40in/min but it was TSC+flood. I believe the technical term is "retard torque".

BIG BOI CHIPS

>> No.1705241

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5S-c4KvoH4

3 0 0 horsepower cut

>the lads behind it shoveling chips out

>> No.1705245

>>1705241
that's not exactly a normal machine to have around either

>> No.1705257

>>1705166
Take a cut bigger than .015" deep and you'll figure out the difference. Industrial machines will rip off 1/4" DOC of 4140/A2 at a heavy feed rate and still hold +-.0005 with decent finish.

>> No.1705259

>>1705257
little lathes can do 0.025-0.050" at high RPM

>> No.1705310

>>1705241
Caught the broom on fire near the end of the video lol

>> No.1705372

>>1705259
That's cute.

>> No.1705400

>>1705372
it's true though

>> No.1705403 [DELETED] 
File: 381 KB, 1080x2154, Morgnyan_Picture-9_1565661265.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1705403

How do you find a gf like this who is into machining? Genuine question.

>> No.1705413

>>1705403
on some faggot board

>> No.1705488

>>1705077
Did you spend any effort on restoration, it were they good to go?

>> No.1705507

>>1705184
>>1705257

this whole time I was researching epoxy granite and various alloys when I could've just used steel plate or concrete to frame it. it will be a hobby lathe after all, I wont' expect anything more than 0.020" at a time and materials like aluminum or brass. thanks bros this will definitely speed up the design process.

>> No.1705515

>>1705400
I never said it wasn't, but it still falls under "cute".
>>1705507
As long as you understand the limits of such a machine, there's nothing wrong with them. Most of us just want to make sure you know what you're getting so you're not disappointed.
>concrete
I've seen plans before of casting lathe beds out of concrete and then attaching ways to the bed. You might want to look some of those up but I think they were meant for larger builds of 1/4 ton or more.

>> No.1705516

>>1705507
Ginger's book about making a lathe from scrap states that cold rolled steel plate only varies about .005"

>> No.1705957

Can't believe I wasted 30 minutes de-burring parts by hand when I have perfectly good air tools and a frigging belt sander that frankly work better and faster.

>> No.1705965

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbqY8Mcbh0Q

This is the right way to do epoxy granite.

>> No.1705977
File: 82 KB, 827x688, GT0632SZdimensions.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1705977

where the fuck do I start with this

>> No.1705979

>>1705977
lol what the fuck

start with a 2d sketch in fusion 360, of course.

>> No.1705980

>>1705977
start with the bolt holes

>> No.1705982

>>1705979
>>1705980
that's what I did but I'm having trouble understanding where the radii start and stop. I get that the centerpoint for the 15mm one is the origin point but I'm not sure about the rest.

>> No.1705983

>>1705982
yeah man this is like troll-tier drawings, but I suspect you can do it by using the tangent constraints, like edge of circle must touch other line or some other constraint.

>> No.1705997

>>1705982
well I suspect they figure the tangent and other constraints like fitting it together logically once you're drawing it will fill in the rest of the details, but it's a super shitty drawing. I've been looking at it for a couple minutes and I wouldn't do it for fun.

>> No.1706000

>>1705977
>>1705983
>>1705997
You don't, it's missing several dimensions.

>> No.1706003

>>1706000
hmmmm

if the drawing is to scale or whatever, you can take the image, import it into fusion 360 and draw the lines on it in the sketch environment.

That would actually work and be far faster than figuring out that stupid shit.

>> No.1706006
File: 312 KB, 1275x797, genius.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1706006

>>1706003
gooby you are of genius

>> No.1706018
File: 270 KB, 1507x722, getting there.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1706018

>>1706006
well I'm giving up because I don't actually have a use for this, but you can probably finish it from here.

>> No.1706020

>>1706018
>>1706006
just line up the cross marking the center point with the sketch center point and scale it until all the other crosses for the holes at the corners line up, an iterative process...

>> No.1706130

>>1705977
What kind of asshole would draw this?

>> No.1706139

>>1706130
Pretty much all of the MasterCAM training drawings look like this shit. 90% of each one is just a billion tangent lines and arcs. Never seen a single real print like those in years of working at a job shop.

>> No.1706164

>tfw need a 32 ton press to punch 5 inch diameter circles out of thick plate

>> No.1706166

>>1706164
ah nevermind that's before the edges of either the punch or die are beveled

>> No.1706289

>>1706130
Garrett/Honeywell, it's the turbine outlet for a gt0632 turbocharger.

>> No.1706307

*crrrk* *sips*
AHhhh yep.

Machining.

>> No.1706374

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesMo16haqw

Damn, I think I might actually get even better tool life with just an air mister. Chip evac is better than shitty flood it seems. The coating doesn't seem to mind the heat either.

>> No.1706573

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LOF7jtG3aw

>> No.1706618

>tfw I finish the job I can buy a forklift finally

>> No.1706630

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vydQqp4BB_4

>> No.1706680

>>1706618
You got a idea to which brand of liftyboi you want? We have Clark electrics exclusively, but we used to have Toyota's LP and they were nice and I miss them.

>> No.1706871

>>1706680
probably LP something old cheap and heavily used

>> No.1706899

Interesting, Haas vs Doosan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsgzthdr9XI

>> No.1707073

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTQwNAJeG48

abom play button part2

>> No.1707113

>>1706899
Fanuc control is definitely a con. HAAS's control is just so comfy. Also their YouTube videos about how to do simple and advanced things has saved me countless times.

>> No.1707135

>>1707113
I've used both extensively, I'd say they're about the same. Fanuc doesn't hold your hand as much.

>> No.1707136

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1v0USh10jmg

So much for that "onshape" software?

>> No.1707209

>>1707135
I've used both as well. Fanuc has problems with multiple versions of the same control that have some codes that don't work on other versions. fucking pisses me off every time I have to program one.
Haas is great because they all use the same codes and don't have 20 odd versions of their control.

>> No.1707214

>>1707209
>multiple versions of the same control that have some codes that don't work on other versions
I've seen that too, it was usually when it was a controller on another brand of machine. It makes sense that a Microcut machine has some different M/G clodes or some shit than a Hyundai machine. Some newer Fanuc controllers have more functions, that is also reasonable. Haas controllers go on Haas machines, the only thing that could change is more functionality.

Fanuc is literally making controllers for their own brand of machine and like 75% of literally every machine manufacturer on the planet. Shit's bound to get weird at some point. Most controllers are copies of Fanuc controllers so knowing Fanuc means knowing rebranded Fanuc, like Enshu Enac controllers, to name one.

>> No.1707215

>>1707136
did anyone ever use onshape with F360 around?

>> No.1707217

>>1707215
apparently they have like 5k subscribers or something

>> No.1707219

>>1707214
Fanuc has an A,B,C, and F sub series of controller for the OT/M series of machines. some G-codes like G83 don't work on others while some it does. I've never had a problem on any Haas like that.

>> No.1707220

>>1707219
even mazak for that matter

>> No.1707221

>>1707219
>>1707220
That's what happens when you make controllers for machines at various price points. I've worked on Fanuc controllers that didn't even have any letter keys. You had to navigate through 3 soft key menus to type a single letter.

Haas, or Mazak, or Okuma, again, don't have any of that stuff to deal with.

>> No.1707274

>>1707221
So, how much is stupid fast acceleration, rapids and spindle worth compared to larger travels and rigidity?

I'm thinking I should buy a used DT-1 in the near future over like a mini-mill or an old fadal.

>> No.1707366

>>1707274
Depends on what kind of parts you want to make, generally speaking.

>> No.1707579

>>1707113
Eh but shouldnt you be able to spec a different controller on a doosan? Something like a Siemens or Fagor (although fagor sucks).

I know speccing a non Fanuc controller on asian machines can be a bit of a gamble but a big company like Doosan shouldn't be that bad at it

>> No.1707610

>>1707579
Old FAGOR is confirmed to be hilariously shit to the point of multiple daily issues. I've heard new FAGOR is less shit.

Never really tried Siemens though, Fanuc is always the decent standard. Mitsubishi is apprently decent too.

>> No.1707622

>>1707610
>Never really tried Siemens though
They're fucking awful, we have two. Constant issues and then the way things are setup is so counter-intuitive.

>> No.1707795

>>1707622

I know a few big boi lathe guys who swear by Sinumerik.
but on the same hand we also have a guy at the shop who still likes the Heidenhain TNC 355 control so eh

>> No.1707891

>>1707610
Last fagor I used had to have the power turned off and on to run a program again. Weirdest bug>>1707622

>> No.1707965
File: 1.56 MB, 1562x1920, IMG_20191031_121206.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1707965

>>1707891
>>1707610
>old fagor
I've seen some shit

>> No.1707966
File: 1.07 MB, 1920x1327, IMG_20191031_121129.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1707966

>>1707610
>>1707891
>>1707965
Sorry about the chicken scratch, I'm no calligrapher.

Fucking Fagor though holy shit. I've heard the new controllers are better but I'm still apprehensive about touching one again.

>> No.1707998

Dry machining kicks ass.

>> No.1708069

>>1707966
One of our lathes with fagor control wants to do toolchanges somewhere between the workpiece and the chuck instead of the home position.

Still better than the "teach in" Ctek pos we have on one of the cnc mills Holy fuck that one is unlogical
"oh you doing drilling in incremental? yeah that works fine in x and y but z will go to absolute 0 anyways". Crashed more drills and drillholders than I'd like because of that

>> No.1708083

>>1705117
28-32 Rc, if I recall correctly

>> No.1708186
File: 587 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_20191101_093222.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1708186

My mister us here, but i wonder if i can use it without a big, loud, expensive compressor?

>> No.1708187

>>1708186
hmm maybe a constant flow type like a fish tank bubbler on steroids would work for it?

>> No.1708216

>>1708187
>fish tank bubbler
what sort of pressure are we talking about? i need very little coolant, basically few drops is fine

>> No.1708306

You will never look as cool when pressing emstop as this guy

https://youtu.be/Kj3h2A7Hass?t=15

>> No.1708324

>>1708306
Dude looks like the shotgun wielding couch defender in Texas.

Also
>Titan
I mean the guy is aight, but he shills so much.

>> No.1708349

>>1708324
AMERICAN MADE.... BOOM

>> No.1708378

>>1708349
>Tormach
As soon as they said he had been signed as a sponsor I knew he would be showing videos of tormachs. Kind of funny, now.

>> No.1708389

>>1708306
hah this si so fucking fake
https://youtu.be/Kj3h2A7Hass?t=1780

If you are milling titanium you will be constantly cleaning blood out of your eardrums and you are telling me you can hear a plastic gopro camera drop inside of the closed enclosure?
kek.. nope

>> No.1708392

>>1708389
Are you accusing them of milling aluminum and passing it off as titanium? Because if I was in the business of showing stuff off and being a shitbag about it that's what I would do.

>> No.1708437

>>1708389
>a plastic gopro camera

are you an idiot? yes you can hear that shit because your ears are fucking programmed to listen for that because it means "snapped tool, part lifting up, oh shit it's all going to break hit E-stop NNNooooWW!"

>> No.1708442

>>1708378
Lots of guys buy machines made in Taiwan anyway, yet they run businesses with them that employ people and make loads of money.

Tormach isn't pretending to be an industrial leader, and he's probably fine with that. Also Tormach is an American company doing the QC and assembly on the bullshit they get from China.

>> No.1708443

>>1708389
>If you are milling titanium you will be constantly cleaning blood out of your eardrums

Not true, if you are doing it right it won't be that loud but it does sing.

Try it with an IMCO 7 flute or a Kennametal 6 flute.

>> No.1708445

>>1708389
@28:18 that's a stainless/titanium sing.

>> No.1708489

>>1708442
Such as? I haven't seen any decent brands made in taiwan or any that even come to mind. While I'm not saying that you can't make money off them there are MUCH better options.

>> No.1708529
File: 119 KB, 1200x1200, airpig.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1708529

>>1708186
my god you got a mister, anyways, you probably wont get enough pressure from an aquarium pump or anything constant and cheap, cheapest and probably easiest is a small protable air tank used in automotive, get it filled up somewhere, like at gas station,shop,friend, and hook it up like that. you dont need a lot of air but you will need pressure and flow, and you probably wont even need a regulator, hook the tank up to the solenoid, quietest option

>> No.1708583

>>1704528
what the fuck is that like 7,000,000$
what production environment needs a vertical, horizontal mill and lathe with live tooling packed into one fucker

>> No.1708588

>>1705234
thing is like a fucking old school shaper wtf

>> No.1708590 [DELETED] 

>>1708583

What? Looks to be a pretty normal millturn to me.

>> No.1708593

>>1708583

What? Looks to be a pretty normal millturn to me.

>> No.1708632

>>1708583
more like half a million or so

>> No.1708633

>>1708489
almost all knee mills are made in taiwan and probably the castings for lots of CNC stuff too.

>> No.1708634

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hzqtl_de6Y

>> No.1708687

>>1708529
If i got a tiny compressor with a 8 liter tank at 8psi how long could it mist without turning the compressor on? I only need small amount of mist

>> No.1708692

>>1708529
His neighbors will murder him soon anyway, what's a little compressor rumbling every 5 minutes?

>> No.1708700

>>1704469
Iv been wanting to get a cnc for over a year now, but not sure which. Id be wanting to make small boxes and enclosures for my electronics projects mainly, but also random stuff like cogs and clocks. A massive piece of plywood is like $6, and that will make like 50 boxes or such, so its much cheaper than a 3d printer (and better looking + durable). My question is what is a cheap beginner router? Iv been looking at the small chinese ones for $300-$400 ish, but not sure if any good. I dont mind the interface (parallel or usb, pi, duino, etc), since i have many many devices with just about any port\interface. Absolute cheapest preferably.

Also, does anyone have any experience in selling things made with a cnc like pi cases or small fancy boxes?

>> No.1708704

>>1708700
If you only want to mill wood and plastic, the small cheapo ones will work fine. Just get one with a suitable size. Cogs and clocks, presumably metal, raise the difficulty level and price by factors of 10 at best, more likely 50-100. Cheap routers can mill aluminium slowly, loudly and with relatively low precision, but they need additional equipment.
3D printers can make different types of parts, things that would be way too complicated for a simple desktop CNC. But you're right that they're completely unsuited for making cheap enclosures. However, just about anyone can have cheap shit CNCs, so there is not much of a market for making parts with them, same as simple 3D printing.

>> No.1708706

>>1708700
>mall boxes and enclosures for my electronics projects mainly, but also random stuff like cogs and clocks.
get a 3d printer
cnc is best for cutting out flat things out of flat things
if you want make same things on a cnc as you would on a 3d printer (to a certain degree) you would need something like the pocket NC which is a 5 axis cnc and costs also around $400 but the catch is that you have to add one extra zero

>> No.1708708

>>1708687
a tiny compressor is a compressor that is loud af anon (usually)

I run mine at like 20-30 psi, but it could easily do with 10-15 psi, blowing the chips away from the cutter is the most important.

>> No.1708709

>>1708704
id only be milling thin plywood (like 5mm?) cant i just use a tiny bit and make wooden cogs for a clock, similar to the hand made ones from way back? For enclosures, id be making it from 6 pieces of thin plywood, and joining together using some kind of joint. I see your point with selling things though, nothing special can be made that china hasnt already mass produced for peanuts (like the acrylic cases for various things, or injection moulded enclosures)

>>1708706
i would only ever cut flat wood, and build from that. a 2d cnc is plenty enough. iv seen some 3d prints, and they dont look as nice as wood

thank you both for the replies though

>> No.1708710

>>1708700
>>1708704
well the shapeoko is a pretty popular one but they're more like $2k

https://carbide3d.com/shapeoko/

>> No.1708711

>>1708710
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxthh-KIzkQ

>> No.1708712

>>1708709
If you just want wooden or plastic gears and cogs, then yeah, a cheap CNC can do that. Shapeoko are a bit larger and more rigid, but you don't need the rigidity for wood.

>> No.1708713
File: 556 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_20191102_110535.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1708713

>>1708709
As someone who runs both a printer and a desktop cnc i can say that for diy you need both because they are complimentary, i use the printer for making cases for my arduino projects, and for making things that would be VERY hard, tons of work or sometimes downright impossible to do on a 3 axis cnc, while with the 3d printer i press a button and out comes the finished part, and you don't need any stock and there is zero waste apart from supports, unlike with cnc where you throw out like half of your stock in chips

and the cnc is great when i need to make something that cannot be made from plastic because it has to for example be able to withstand a lot of heat or hold a lot of weight, so i made it from wood or alu, and of course for things like engraving metals, woods, or making PCBs without any nasty etching or other chemicals

so my advice? get both, you should fit inside of $1000 if you buy from chinks

>> No.1708714

>>1708708
but it only runs when you need to fill the tank, so i wonder how long will the 8l thank last if only used for misting? if it lasts all day then i have no problems running the compressor once a day for 5 minutes

>> No.1708716

>>1708710
thats way out of my price range unfortunately, but the review look great.

>>1708712
good to know, ill hopefully get cheaper one.

>>1708713
what cnc is in the pic? price? it looks around the size of the one im looking at, but a lot nicer.

thanks again for all the replies

>> No.1708743

>>1708714
not long at all, you need a big tank for big flow.

like as tall as you are, I suspect.

then again if you only run the machine for a few minutes it might last, but when does that ever happen? It's a robot, run it ragged and put it up wet.

>> No.1708752

>>1708633
So the castings, a part of the machine is made in taiwan, but the majority of the finish work is made in USA, Japan, and Worst Korea? So pretty much no decent cnc brands are built exclusively in taiwan or China.

>> No.1708755

>>1708752
Yes that is correct, but castings are an important part too.

>> No.1708758

>>1708743
since the 8l one is so smol i could maybe put it into a closet and surround it by acoustic foam, i suspect that should be able to bring it down to vacuum tier sounds

>> No.1708764

if you only need a little mist can't you just use a spray bottle? the advantage of flood coolant is mostly the chip evacuation which you won't get with a weak setup.

>> No.1708804

>>1708764
Yeah flood coolant on a router is tons of fun

>> No.1708808

>>1708764
flood over air is lubrication and better cooling as well as the chip evac

cutting steel dry is a somewhat normal thing these days, aluminum not usually.

>> No.1708813

>>1708716
one thing you might check out is Stefan Gotteswinter's cnc router collection, he knows what he is doing and was using a cnc router to mill some hex sockets into hardened steel.

let me see if i can find the video where he mentions that: https://youtu.be/H-Sf7Nvkwzg?t=3722

>> No.1708821

>>1708813
also, it was his instagram where he made a post about it, I think.

unless it was his main channel...

>> No.1709117

>>1705241
fuckin mint

>> No.1709129
File: 63 KB, 399x399, 1538779022010.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1709129

How do I buy metal from stockholders and get price quotes without getting told "fuck off zoomer retard"? like what is generally the minmum amount they will sell in each size? I know my college gets stock delivered in 3+ meter lengths

If I ask about buying offcuts or small pieces of more expensive material will most companies actually be receptive or will they just put me down as a poorfag?

UK if that makes a difference

>> No.1709182

>>1709129
Steelyards usually have oddsized drops or sections of plate/sheet that they can't really use for anything, they'll more than likely be happy to offload that shit onto you for a low price

>> No.1709203

>>1709182
They're even more open to selling you drops if you give them cash and come back regularly.

>> No.1709220

>>1709129
they dont want to deal with that shit on the phone just go there in person with cash

>> No.1709236

>>1709129
alro actually shows them to you on their website I believe, just set the length you want to "drop/remnant"

>> No.1709425
File: 388 KB, 2048x1536, justletmework.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1709425

I feel like I start to lose passion for my job, what do? I really like autistic machining but working with other humans make me hate it sometimes.

>> No.1709463

>>1709425
maybe you can help them figure out what they're good at or something?

>> No.1709542

>>1709425
big boy

>> No.1709816
File: 1.48 MB, 640x360, video-1572812218_1.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1709816

>>1709463
I don't think it's possible. They are old guys counting days untill retirement. Also estern europe is just depressing place.
>>1709542
Wahat if i tell you it's the medium one?

>> No.1709820

>>1709816
Old guys count the days until retirement everywhere. You spend 30-40 years doing the same thing eventually it forms ruts.
We got a couple of lathes like that at the shop I work in and it's always some old guy that runs it. Just sitting there. Waiting for a shaft to whittle down over hours and hours. It's pretty neat, but I feel like I'd find it boring as fuck.

>> No.1709836

>>1708687
Check out the California Air Tools compressors, they are ultra quiet and fairly cheap.

>> No.1709840

>>1709820
Atleast i dont do same parts everyday. Regeneration jobs ar the most interesting/challenging ones.

>> No.1709956

The bearings and gearboxes on my lathe call for iso32 and iso68 hydraulic per the manual. A gallon jug of each would run me a hundred bucks shipped. According to the internet, 32≈10w and 68≈20w. I can get a gallon of 10 weight and 20 weight ATF for 20 bucks a pop at the parts store. Can I use ATF instead and save myself $60 and shipping time?

>> No.1709973

>>1709956
If you have a farm store near you (fleet and farm, rural king, ect) they will have generic iso 68 and 32 oils for cheap.

>> No.1709978

>>1707966
>1rpm with full torque of the spindle motor
Have fun getting your arm ripped off in slow motion

>> No.1709981

>>1709973
Well live in a populated urban environment, so nothing like that otherwise I wouldn't have even bothered posting. For instance the closest tractor supply is 50 miles one way, and I'm not making a 2-hour trip for two gallons of oil.

>> No.1710073

>>1709981
>>1709981
My Myford lathe uses iso 32 and 68 and I get both at the auto parts store. I can get two 5 litre bottles for $75 aud which is about $50 usd and I live in the city.

In the end it doesn't matter too much as long as you're using oil, but the hydraulic oils smell better. Make sure you use an oil without detergents.

>> No.1710084

>>1704469

You lot might actually know this better than /ohm/:

I got an old LeBlond lathe and ran a line to power it. I only have single-phase 240V. The plan is to run it off a VFD like I do with my mill.

However, despite the motor showing current ratings for both 240V and 480V, it only has 3 leads going straight to the windings. No terminal box. I didn't check or ask what voltage it was running off when I picked it up. I can't seem to get Google to answer the question I'm trying to ask, so is there any (non-destructive...) way to determine what this is supposed to be running on?

I'd just try it on 240, but I'm worried that the VFD may end up damaged if I do that.

>> No.1710085

>>1710073
>buy some old tools
>they need 30 weight non-detergent oil for the gearboxes
>call every ag place in town, not a single one has non-detergent oils
>start trying auto parts stores
>no one has any
>until!
>old NAPA that has been in business for decades
>"Yeah, sure, we keep a pallet of the stuff at all times. All the old-timers use us. You are lucky you called, we are the only place in town that carries it. Saved you a lot of trouble."

>> No.1710092

>>1710084
Does the motor have a nameplate with voltages?

>> No.1710123
File: 1.01 MB, 2016x1512, IMG_20191104_205249.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1710123

>>1710092
It do. That's how I know it's rated for 240/480.

Ended up finding the info I was looking for. Apparently, the motor will run fine at lower voltage, with the caveat that loading it heavily will cause problems. The slip (and, therefore, current) will increase, but through the full set of windings. Because more slip/current is needed in 240V to maintain a relatively synchronous speed than on 480V, you end up in the situation where you're using a winding configuration meant to operate at n amps, but is instead operating on 2n amps.

In other words, the motor ends up heavily de-rated. I still have no idea how this is wired, but I can certainly live with it for now. If it comes down to it, I've got a pair of 10hp motors in the shed that could be made to fit.

Pic related. Between getting this spinny boi running and my new rotary table showing up, today has been a good day. As an aside, I was kinda disappointed to learn that top gear is only like 600RPM. Now that the thing actually runs, that seems PLENTY fast while near a 10-inch chuck.

>> No.1710132

Buying some cheap Chinese tooling for my cheap Chinese lathe. Is there any difference whatsoever between shars/bostar/accusize/etc or is it all same factory different stamp? I'm guessing the latter since they alllll use the same model numbers for the tool posts/tool holders/insert holders.

>> No.1710135

>>1710132

I doubt it, but, as far as I can tell, the Shars stuff has at least marginally better QC.

>> No.1710144

>>1710123
>In other words, the motor ends up heavily de-rated.
That is not correct. The 'power' of the motor will be unchanged. It will have the same HP rating. It will draw twice the amps but the wattage will remain unchanged. At most, you will see improved starting under load if you power it off of 480 volts but nothing more. Its operability at speed will remain unchanged.

If it is US 240 bolts then it will have two hots and a neutral. It likely didn't have a ground originally. Add one. If it does have a ground it is easy enough to check. If you have pictures and still need help go to OWWM.org. Sign up and post in the electrical sub-forum. They can answer just about any question there.

>> No.1710153

>>1710144
>If it is US 240 bolts then it will have two hots and a neutral.
Uh, you realize I'm talking about a 3-phase motor, right?

Also I don't know where you're getting the "same power rating" bit. That's flat-out wrong, assuming an identical winding configuration. Even ignoring the technical reasons behind this, why would dual-voltage motors need to be re-configured if they ran fan on either voltage? Or even exist in the first place?

>> No.1710155

>>1710153
the terminals you swap around for 240/480 3-phase stuff, they're usually wired for 200some 3phase in American shops.

400some voltage stuff is less common, might make sense for some massive sprawling factory somewhere though.

>> No.1710291
File: 92 KB, 710x852, Motor Tag.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1710291

>>1710153
>Uh, you realize I'm talking about a 3-phase motor, right?
I did not. If you plan on running it single phase you should get a phase converter. If you do run it single phase you are correct, you will lose a bunch of strength. You are also more likely to overheat the motor. A single motor digital phase converter is not terribly expensive and they are easy to find online but I don't know what your budget is.

>Also I don't know where you're getting the "same power rating" bit. That's flat-out wrong, assuming an identical winding configuration. Even ignoring the technical reasons behind this, why would dual-voltage motors need to be re-configured if they ran fan on either voltage? Or even exist in the first place?
Many motors in the US are dual voltage but you do have to alter the leads to use a different configuration. That said, it is generally an easy task, with the instructions on the motor itself, and you don't lose any power if you do. Picture related, a vintage dual voltage 3-phase motor with the wiring configuration on the tag. It is even more common for single-phase motors. Just about all 220 motors can be rewired for either 120 or 440 (but not both). In my experience, only some 120 volt tool motors can't be rewired up to 220.

>> No.1710292

whats the least amount of tools/money that you can have and call yourself a machinist

what are the bare minimum a poorfag can get and still get somethings done

>> No.1710330

>>1710292
If you're just doing aluminum or mild steel you can get a tabletop mini mill for like 700 dollars, or a mini lathe for less.
Tooling costs a little more, plus materials...
There are probably cheaper options for bare bare minimum. I mean, you could take a router and cut holes in shit, it just depends on what you need to do.

>> No.1710332

>>1710292
do a cnc conversion on a precision matthews mini mill?

they are reasonably capable and the CNC part makes it 10x more useful than a manual with no tooling

>> No.1710334

>>1710330
>>1710332
thanks

can you turn on a mini mill? how hard and reliable is it?

talking about steel

>> No.1710343

>>1710334
Gotta take super babby cuts like .02-.04 for roughing, but aside from that it's okay.

>> No.1710351

I gotta turn down a hardened gage pin with high speed steel. Thinking I’ll grind a super sharp point on it to minimize tool pressure and hope for the best. Any tips? Am I SOL?

>> No.1710354

>>1710351
You're probably boned. Go to a local busybee or Harbor freight or something and get one of the cheap brazed carbide tip turning tool, it'll be good enough for what you're doing.

>> No.1710355

>>1710354
Yeah, fair enough. I’ll get a couple cheap ones and see how things go. Thanks!

>> No.1710600
File: 872 KB, 1536x1536, 20191105_174211.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1710600

I had a 3hp 3 phase motor, a Chinese lathe and a extra VFD laying around.

>> No.1710606

>>1710600
oh interesting, you twist the ways yet?

>> No.1710610

>>1710606
So far its better than the stock 3/4hp motor it came with. I need to build a beefier toolpost

>> No.1710615

>>1710610
generally they just take the compound off and replace it with a solid block

>> No.1710618

>>1710615
I want to add a electronic lead screw that Clough42 came up with and is selling now. https://youtu.be/7QaQrqn4yeI

>> No.1710631

Should I buy this year 2000 40x20 Fadal for $12k ?

It will probably be $14-15k to get it here and hooked up, I will have to hire a rigger and someone to unload it from the truck for me, probably.

It's a VMC4020 10krpm spindle, looks like the Z axis is box way, which is somewhat of a negative considering you can replace linear guideways

>> No.1710641

holy fuck throwing metal through 3 walls

facebook[]
com/Dandjprecisionmachine/videos/2294066584184740/UzpfSTU4MDMwOTI3NDpWSzoyMTg2MDg3ODYxNDk5MDgz/?sfnsn=mo

>> No.1710689

>>1710631
Depends on if you think it's worth it. I wouldn't buy a fadal when Haas is so cheap for a newer model.

>> No.1710981

>>1710641
Spooky. At our shop there's a wrench shaped hole in a divider where someone left a wrench sticking up on the vice and it got thrown.
This is nuts though. That's like a fucking cannon.

>> No.1711180

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-cL1nrkBk0

>> No.1711190

>>1711180
Have you seen in die tapping?
https://youtu.be/Vz__Ng8fIq0

>> No.1711199

>>1711190
yeah local oil filter place does that, they use form taps.

>> No.1711270

>>1711180
>that piece of wire holding the air blast
Beautiful.

>> No.1711385

>>1711270
So am I silly for wanting to make a die set for stamping 5 inch diameter circles with a log splitter hydraulic piston?

>> No.1711546

>>1711385
Don't think you can get enough force from a log splitter cylinder for stamping out a 5" dia circle, how thick of material?

>> No.1711548

>>1711546
0.130" thick 10 gauge steel plate

>> No.1711576

>>1711548
Unless it's an industrial size splitter, I doubt it has the tonnage for that.

>> No.1711584

>>1709129
Check any metal supply company locally, and check out if they have a surplus section. You can probably find what you want there for dirt cheap prices.

>> No.1711592

>>1711548
I'm getting a minimum of 52 tons to stamp out a 5"circle from .130" plate from my calculations .

>> No.1711650

>>1711592
Diameter x thickness x 3.14 x yield strength.

>> No.1711654

>>1711650
Oops that should be diameter x 3.14 to get the circumstance then multiply by the thickness.

>> No.1711752

>>1711576
supposedly if you bevel the edges of the punch/die you can do it with less tonnage

>> No.1712174
File: 846 KB, 1536x1536, 20191108_094652.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1712174

2x6 hot rolled on my power hack saw right now. This is the biggest thing I've cut on it yet.

>> No.1712205

Anyone has experience with those 5 axis Pocket NC machines?

>> No.1712243

holy hell, every other tool I try just can't compete with the kennametal

>> No.1712254

>>1712243
I thought for sure the lakeshore variable flute for tool steel could handle slotting like the kennametal

Nope!

>> No.1712510

Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1m5lndjN6c

>> No.1712519
File: 277 KB, 1600x1066, Hw_IMG_5050.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1712519

>>1712510
The batteries will annoy the shit out of you, these cheapo calipers need changing every half a year or so. I switched mine out for big external lithium batteries, but you could also hook them up to a power adapter if you used them stationary like that.
Also they're not super accurate, as you'd expect, but neither are chink lathes so it's probably okay.

>> No.1712556

>>1712510
Any misalignment will make it less accurate over long distances, the 6" or so that caliper covers it might not matter much.

>> No.1712557

>>1712519
A set of dial calipers are the best investment I've made

>> No.1712559

>>1712557
I've been thinking about it, but with this $2 battery I should get about 3-4 years on a single charge. I have another caliper with a smaller battery that will probably last around 8 months on a charge, that one's less bulky.

>> No.1712566

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7TmDxhuXVw

60HP makino

>> No.1712568

>>1712566
>big numbers
>BIG
>NUMBERS
>WOOOOOOOOW
>LOOK AT HOW BIG MY SPINDLE IS
>WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

>> No.1712569

>>1712568
Damn right.

>> No.1712573
File: 22 KB, 400x400, 41OObU8nwdL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1712573

Apartment fag here

what would you recommend getting to start making homebrew mechanical timepieces?

I was thinking a tabletop mill (ppis indexer/rotary table) and lathe or some kind of clock making tools; though I dont know what exactly i'd be looking for with the latter

any help is appreciated

>> No.1712585

>>1712573
What do you want to make them from?
They sell mini-lathes and mini-mills that are actually well build, specifically for watchmaking and high precision work, but they're far from cheap, even used ones cost about as much as a proper big lathe/mill.

>> No.1712599

>>1712566
while we are on the subject of videos
>watch Acuck79 for a while now
>he post the worst content 3 weeks in a row
>making sub par youtube play button

>> No.1712611

>>1712599
that shitty paint job

I've done better with a rattlecan

>> No.1712842

>>1712599
his latest video looks to have some substance

>> No.1712880
File: 114 KB, 1254x768, e9d1eb3907ffc915fbe5834e17142e09.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1712880

>>1712566

>> No.1712915
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1712915

>>1712880

>> No.1712971

>>1705241
this is a perfect job for a shaper or a planer. why are they wasting time with a giant stupid facemill?

>> No.1712974

>>1710291
lol what a weak motor, its only 230 volts

ive got a motor thats runs at 460 volts on my Bridgeport

>> No.1712975

>>1710292
Having at least an all aluminum cnc/manual mill (no wood) with tools is all you really need. you can turn metal easily by clamping tools in the vice and putting round stock in the collet.

>> No.1712976

>>1712971
Are you retarded? This is a thousand times faster than either of those machines and can still be used for other things instead of being a one trick pony. Literally no one uses those anymore in any serious capacity and they haven't for a solid 4 decades.

>> No.1712977

>>1712971
Ok Boomer

>> No.1713043
File: 149 KB, 1080x720, starrett-125meb-6-150-vernier-cu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1713043

>>1712519
Back in my day all we had was a Vernier and a magnifying glass and it worked! it was coolant proof, shock resistant and never needed to be re-zeroed. these electronic fangled toys just dont work like the good old stuff did.

Ted

>> No.1713086

>>1713043
boomers told me dial is better than digital and that they lie about being accurate to .00001 or whatever they display. is that still true?

>>1712573
>guy I know wants to make a grandfather clock
>it actually works but because he fucked up one of his calculations it requires a 100lb weight

>> No.1713090

>>1713086
calipers aren't that fucking accurate, they're good for tolerance of 0.005" or so, micrometer for final inspection on anything more accurate.

>> No.1713103

>>1712976
>and can still be used for other things
How many do you think they sold?

>> No.1713110

>>1713086
anon, you should know better
Anything a boomer says can be safely disregarded

>> No.1713121

>>1713090
>they're good for tolerance of 0.005"
If you can't solidly rely on your caliper to be +-.001 at the worst, you bought a shit caliper.
>>1713103
What does that have to do with anything?

>> No.1713144

>>1713121
You would be an idiot to rely on any caliper for final inspection at those tolerances.

>> No.1713146

>>1713043
>never needed to be re-zeroed

tell that to the non-digital mitutoyo at my work that reads 0.3 when the jaws are closed

>> No.1713148

>>1713146
vernier you can't change the zero at all afaik

doesn't matter though because verniers suck balls, might be worth keeping one around to show all the young bucks for shits and giggles I guess.

>> No.1713198

>>1713043
Practical machinist memes just aren't as funny as arfcom memes.

>> No.1713233

>>1704469
Please recommend me the least shit chinese CNC router that can cut mild steel plate.
It's mostly going to be used for a fire-and-forget making of grips and engraved nameplates, but I also have a bug up my ass for building a few JACO single shot pistols.

>> No.1713266

>>1704525
Best thing is to get different diameter bar stock and mill a slot in for a regular indexable lathe tool and a step to hold it in the lathe tool holder
You always want to use the largest diameter bar possible for boring so that is rigid and if you do mangle the tool it's just a cheap insert tool vs the entire boring bar.

>> No.1713268

>>1713148
Verniers got me through my apprenticeship classes for my red seal because I knew no one will steal them.

>> No.1713378

>>1713146
did you try wiping the Vernier faces before closing them? stupid apprentices

>> No.1713388

>>1713198
I don't know, there was an anon a few threads ago that got told some tiny ass warehouse distributor was the actual OEM for like 80 different tooling brands, some of which aren't even made on this continent.

>> No.1713390

What is everyone's workhorse insert style? I keep finding myself going back to a vnmg every time I do something.

>> No.1713391

>>1713144
If it's actually +-.001" or tighter, of course I use something more precise. But calipers can do far better than .005" if you don't do stupid shit with them and have good pressure awareness.

>> No.1713392

>>1713390
I use WNMG because that's all I've got, barring some small CCMTs for tiny boring bars. Might be worth getting VNMGs to get into tighter spots.

>> No.1713405

>>1713390

TPG, mostly because I have holders for them (and one for the mill). Realistically, I'd probably have no real use for them if I had a TNMG holder. Was looking for a threading insert holder the other day, ended up breaking down and buying https://www.ebay.com/itm/330365707091, so we'll see what I end up using the most.

(Spoiler: I already know it's going to be the WCMT.)

>> No.1713411

>>1713405
what's the difference between WNMG and WCMT?

>> No.1713474

>>1713121
>What does that have to do with anything
If its so useful they must have sold a lot of them.

>> No.1713553

>>1713090
My Mitutoyo 8" digital calipers and 0-1" digital micrometer are usually within .01mm of each other when measuring the same part. .005" is excessive.

>> No.1713555

>>1713553
I also have an 8" mitutoyo caliper and mic set, but I still don't guarantee anything +/-0.003" with calipers. Doesn't matter what I'm measuring, if I'm very confident in the measurement, I know it'll be closer but I still don't guarantee it.

It's not worth it.

>> No.1713814

>>1713390
TNMG (Triangles, of course)

>> No.1713906

>>1713411

The "N" designates 0° relief, so they can be double-sided, but require a holder that's tilted forward to obtain relief. "C" indicates it has a clearance angle of 7°.

The "T" vs "G", isn't really important, it just denotes that one has a countersunk hole and chipbreaker on one side, and the other has a chipbreaker on both sides and no countersink on the hole.

Practically speaking, there's not much reason to use a WCxx over a WNxx insert. You can run them a bit better on a smaller machine, due to the fact that they have a higher rake angle, but that's about it. Tradeoff there is that the WN insert will have a slightly more durable edge, too.

Also, link related is helpful:

http://www.mitsubishicarbide.com/en/technical_information/tec_turning_tools/tec_turning_insert/tec_turning_guide/tec_turning_identification

>> No.1713984

I need to make some three jaw chuck soft jaws. Are there any blueprints available online to make just a basic three jaw chuck soft jaw? Have a slowdown at work and I'm thinking of spending my time making some ready to customize soft jaws for our lathe. I will be doing the work on a cnc vertical mill.

>> No.1713989
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1713989

>>1713984
What type are they? If they're tongue and groove they should be easy enough to reverse engineer. If they're teethed i wouldn't bother, just buy them.

>> No.1714005

>>1708713
I ordered a mini CNC router just like that
It's sitting in a warehouse in Shenzhen at the moment
Can you actually cut aluminum with it?

>> No.1714028 [DELETED] 

>>1714005
question guys.

I'm planning a project that involved installing a OLED display on a aluminium panel. I was to CNC a pocket into the panel say 1.5mm deep and fit in a piece of acrylic into it 1.5mm deep, that should be flush with the aluminium surface.

inside the pocket i want to cut through a rectangle completely through through which you can see the OLED.

Basically I want to make this look slick, like the display cover on a gameboy or nintendo switch or what have you. Nothing crazy, but just not something that looks gangster af like most "maker" displays projects I see.

I can't find any good sources on how to make a flush display like this or if I should even be attempting it. It seems like a standard bit of industrial design in commercial products, but I don't see many people attempting it in DIY projects.

Is there any big reasons I shouldn't be trying this?

>> No.1714030

question guys.

I'm planning a project that involved installing a OLED display on a aluminium panel. I was to CNC a pocket into the panel say 1.5mm deep and fit in a piece of acrylic into it 1.5mm deep, that should be flush with the aluminium surface.

inside the pocket i want to cut through a rectangle completely through through which you can see the OLED.

Basically I want to make this look slick, like the display cover on a gameboy or nintendo switch or what have you. Nothing crazy, but just not something that looks gangster af like most "maker" displays projects I see.

I can't find any good sources on how to make a flush display like this or if I should even be attempting it. It seems like a standard bit of industrial design in commercial products, but I don't see many people attempting it in DIY projects.

Is there any big reasons I shouldn't be trying this?

>> No.1714035
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1714035

>>1714030

>> No.1714044
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1714044

>>1714035
I'm thinking something like this. I guess I should have drawn this first.

But I can't find anyone attempting a remotely similar project online despite most consumer products with displays looking like this basically.

I'd just love to see someone who did something similar.

>> No.1714045

>>1714044
oh, and the acrylic would be glued to tho the aluminium, which i gather is what happens in most consumer displays. And I'd like to bond some vinyl to the back of the acrylic with a rectangle cut out in the middle to see the OLED through, which i also gather is what's usually done in consumer products.

>> No.1714079
File: 12 KB, 400x267, Barrowch-Red-Digital-OLED-Display-Flow-Meter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1714079

>>1714044
I'd ditch the screws but I think they could have some elegance

>But I can't find anyone attempting a remotely similar project online despite most consumer products with displays looking like this basically.

Then you'll be the first, buddy. Be a trend setter

>> No.1714081

>>1714079
Well the screws will be hidden behind the vinyl bonded to the back of the glass, which I've often seen in consumer electronics screen.

>Then you'll be the first, buddy. Be a trend setter
Fuck. I feel like by the time i finish it i'll realise why no one else does it. Either it will look like shit or end up costed an embarrassing amount somehow.

>> No.1714085

>>1714005
generally yes, just slowly and with some trial and error.

I wonder how like a kennametal 1/8 KOR or similar would do cutting aluminum because they have such great anti-chatter geomtry.

>> No.1714087

>>1714028
I would make the frame around the glass (use glass you poorfag) protrude up from the exterior surface a little bit so the glass and exterior surface are at the same height, minus the frame around the glass.

so the pocket you're milling would be at the depth of the main exterior surface, but you also mill the exterior to have a raised island, with cnc there is no reason not to make it funky chamfers and stuff too.

>> No.1714097
File: 1.67 MB, 2592x1944, 20191108_163405.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1714097

Finally done with these things. There were two seperate variations, each with a mirrored part. This was the first time I used any sort of saw type cutter on the mill. Bores with half thou tolerances, geometry with one thou tolerance. Compound angles with half degree tolerances.

>> No.1714099

>>1714087
oh and you can machine glass too, with the right endmills

>> No.1714100

>finally find a job
>they're going to pay me $23 an hour
>but instead of working under the current guy he's retiring and they want me to replace him
>also when I asked about the lathe in the shop he said they don't even have a 4 jaw
how worried should I be?

>> No.1714101

>>1714097
sweet, CNC or manual?

from the look of it I would be tempted to 3d profile those angles as long as I can reach into the corners.

>>1714100
lathe work is lathe work, mill work is more complicated.

>> No.1714110
File: 1.71 MB, 2592x1944, 20191108_163359.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1714110

>>1714101
3 axis cnc. Used a 3 inch shell mill to rough the profile and a 1.5 inch HSS end mill to finish. The angled groove was done with a custom ground slitting saw.

>> No.1714117

>>1714110
what are the overall dimensions?

>> No.1714118

>>1714101
it's a gunsmith job though

>> No.1714120

>>1714118
maybe they cut soft jaws or something?

>> No.1714142

>>1714117

2.913 x 5.45 x 5.5

>> No.1714340

>>1714142
oh okay not gigantic

>> No.1714353
File: 66 KB, 560x372, 2193070862.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1714353

>>1714340
Oh no. I run the tiny machine in our shop. To the west of me is a HAAS VF8 and further west is a MAS TOS VSP-50.

>> No.1714356

>>1714353
sweet

>> No.1714413
File: 1.68 MB, 2592x1944, 20191112_080323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1714413

Here is a dimensions drawing for some 3 jaw chuck soft jaws if anyone has a use for them.

>> No.1714964

I took my dog to the shop tonight and she looks like the Terminator at the end of T1 in the shop glancing around at every movement and machine any time one of them moves. Gonna have to take her home... She doesn't look comfy.

>> No.1714981

>>1714964
No shit a dog doesn't like a loud scary and unfamiliar place. Like letting a 6 year old watch saw and expecting anything other than a lifetime of bed wetting and small animal torture.

>> No.1714987

>>1714353
I would like to see some videos of that thing in action pls.

>> No.1714988

>>1714981
Well she was fine when it was just the lathe running, but I moved over to a more busy area and she got antcy. She's not scarred or anything. She did settle down. I took her home anyway though. If I'm running only the lathe some night I might bring her back.
She's fine with unfamiliar. She wanted to poke her head in every corner and explore. She's not a timid animal in the least. It's just the cnc machines constant movement.

>> No.1715010

>>1714988
My yorkie hates the shop because of chips everywhere. I don't like to take him because I usually have to brush the chips out of his hair. Also, he growls at tool changes and the beginning of toolpaths

>> No.1715229
File: 587 KB, 1449x1932, 20191113_122330-1449x1932.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1715229

god I fucking hate turning bronze

every. fucking. time. I gotta clean up the collosal mess it makes

>> No.1715231

>>1715229
Can't you just run it dry?

>> No.1715255

>>1714413
pretty good sketch for an apprentice
gj anon

>> No.1715271

/our guy/ desu

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX2qk_W0450

>> No.1715301

>>1715229
Yep.

>> No.1715321

I wonder if these kids are like "OMG it was always my dream to be a machinist, titan is my god" or are more like "welp i can't afford any good colleges and am not smart enough to go to any other schools i want so i guess i will have to go into machining, since they have free spots and are accepting people without any testing, it's either this or accounting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEjivl5CG0Q

>> No.1715322

>>1715321
Probably engineer camp or something equally as dumb.

>> No.1715324

>>1715322
It's also so fucking useless to those kids.

They literally just stand around and look at a cnc as it cuts holes into metal. They can do that on youtube as well.
It's not like they will let those kids touch those $1M machines
>hey kid, wanna do a tool swap?
>TSSSST
>click
>TSSSSST
>wow that was so cool, you are just like a real machinist

one day in a shop is fucking meaningless they need to be around cncs every day at school and if the shool has cncs then this field trip to titan shop was pointless since all cnc mills work the same, they just come in different sizes and shapes

>> No.1715326

>>1715324
they get to look around a high end shop, is that really so terrible?

>> No.1715330

>>1715326
>high end
i see you are pretty easily impressed

>> No.1715340

>>1715324
>hey fellow zoomers you can make something in cad and then mill it out real quick. Then you can do the fortnite dance.
I shit you not this is probably what the whole thing was. Titan is a salesman, so I think he's just shilling his Academy thing in this video.

>> No.1715341

>>1715330
miles ahead of using clapped out used stuff all day

>> No.1715343

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9s8pfkhIEJ0

>> No.1715346

>>1715326
>>1715341
New=/=better
We have one of those new DMG Mori Seiki 4 axis lathes with the full touch screen controllers and there fucking awful to use, and Mori Seiki controllers in general are pretty clunky to use compared to Fanuc. The lower end DMG machines have shit fit and finish, and are poorly made. The cycle start green plastic insert fell out after 6 months for fuck sacks.

>> No.1715349

>>1715346
in other news, I had a Mazak guy call me this evening.

He wants to stop by when he's in the area and hang out.

>> No.1715354

>>1715349
Mazak is nice. I don't particularly like mazatrol but it's leaps and bounds over fanuc. I still like haas, but parts ain't cheap on haas

>> No.1715425

>>1715229
>>1715229
Turn the tools upside down and spin the chuck backwards the chips will shoot down away from your face

>> No.1715437

>>1715425
I'll try that, should i still use a centered tool height or drop it lower

>> No.1715438

>>1715231
You can. He should.

>> No.1715501

for my college robots class final project I'm doing a CNC mill thingy entirely made out of stock LEGO components (minus an Arduino and drill bits and whatever). Table should be able to move about ~10" in XYZ. Theoretically with the LEGO worm gears a thou of adjustment will be possible. The tricky part will be having the whole structure of the mill be stiff enough I think. It'll also have self-zeroing features, as LEGO makes sensitive touch sensors.

Of course, the shitty 9V LEGO motor will limit the mill to foam and other soft materials.

Anyways I dunno if any of you think this is interesting or anything; should I post pics of it here when it's all done?

>> No.1715560

>>1715501
Yeah post it, no one posts their projects here anyway so seeing something is always different

>> No.1715570

>>1715501
Why not order actual aluminum rails steppers and leadscrews from ali? not only will it be cheaper than overpriced lego shit, but it will actually work and will be able to be used for actual work and not just some gimmicky paper router

>> No.1715642

>>1715570
because the entire class revolves around LEGO.

>> No.1715644

>cut metal with weave oil
will this damage the blade? it worked but gave off a smell of dead animal

>> No.1715743

>>1715437
You still want your tools on center. Let us know if it works for you

>> No.1716234

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri6eLf34k4E

>tormach vs makino

>> No.1716246

>>1715644

Not exactly what I'd call "optimal", but any lube is better than no lube, I guess. Certainly wouldn't damage the cutter, in any event.

>> No.1716322

>>1716234
anything else > new tormach > old tormach

>> No.1716471

>>1716234
First time watching this guy and I've been watching some of his latest videos, and I don't see the point of them. It's mostly just fluff and shilling and muh academy.

>> No.1716474

D

>> No.1716519

>>1716471
>It's mostly just fluff and shilling and muh academy.
Thank you, yeah he seems like most of the #instamachinists on YouTube and social media. All hype and show, barely any actual substance with any of his videos.

>> No.1716578

>>1716471
well yeah the whole point for him is to encourage people to take up the trade, hopefully even build a business

>> No.1716589

>>1716578
speaking of, anyone here done any artistic type stuff on a cnc?

got a client wanting some state outline signs with names on them.

>> No.1716654

>>1716589
I've done some 40k imperial aquila's on a waterjet. T'was neat.

>> No.1716705
File: 2.05 MB, 3264x2448, CIMG0768.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1716705

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saT1XPAI580

I made this [back in the day...]

>> No.1716706
File: 485 KB, 1600x1200, CIMG0770.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1716706

>> No.1716748

Any other wage cucks wanna share how much they're making? I'm at 28 as a cnc milling setup and operator. idk if this is good or not, hows the market out there?

>> No.1716756

>>1716748
Used to make $18.7CAD/hr as a cnc lathe operator/setupmen. That's a decent wage where I live, but experienced machinist make at least mid twenties I think.

>> No.1716758

>>1716748
5+ years experience, manual/CNC machinist, CNC programmer, lathe, mill 4axis and wire edm 35/h leafbucks

>> No.1716776

>>1716758
Are the shifts 8 hours or 12?

I just can't believe people work 12 hour shifts 6 days a week in perpetuity for peanuts. Cocksuckers better not want an arm and a leg in taxes for my little sole proprietorship too.

>> No.1716779

>>1716776
8 hour shifts. I know I'm not exactly paid well, but I knowingly accepted lower pay specifically because my current job is fun as hell. I more or less have a small machine shop all to myself, I can even get my own work-unrelated projects done on the side.

Enjoying life is worth having a lower pay.

>> No.1716780

$28usd/hr here. I make about $85 grand a year with the ot i work. 10 hour days, half day saturdays half of saturdays.

>> No.1716788

>>1709129
Do they have McMasterCarr in the UK? They have smaller minimum lengths than actual metal companies. Amazon might be similar.

>> No.1716790

>>1709425
Part of what I like about machining is that when it's good you can just get a print or prints and not have to talk to anybody for a while. Maybe try switching shops before you switch careers.

I thought I could pull an office space and join a trade to avoid stupid office bullshit. But I had to quit because the second in command knew nothing about machining and cared more about talking about peoples feelings than figuring out how to order the right size of stock.

>> No.1716793

>>1712568
HEY EVERYBODY LOOK HOW UNIMPRESSED I AM.
AREN'T I COOL BECAUSE I'M JADED AND CYNICAL
NOTHING POPULAR IS GOOD
I HAVE LOST MY SENSE OF WONDER IN THE WORLD
PLEASE STOP LIKING THINGS :(

>> No.1716797

>>1715501
Sounds cool.
One of the very first things I saw that made me get into machining was a lego CNC Mill.

It was this video in fact:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF0pMILT7_Y

Hard to that was five years ago and it put me on a five year plus career path but that's what started it.

>> No.1716824

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY1bJTYRo1k

tool & die guy been posting a lot lately

>> No.1716897
File: 773 KB, 902x739, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1716897

Has the science gone too far?
When your endmill costs more than your mill it's time to stop and reconsider the mistakes you made in your life that led up to this moment.

>> No.1716901

>>1716897
Is that an endmill? Is that a paint mixer? Is that a pocket-sized Pythagoras Switch? It's all of them!

>> No.1716902

>>1716901
And you know what the best part is? To use it you have to screw in about 200 inserts

>> No.1716909

>>1716748
>wage cucks
Not wage cuck, but I make about 35k right now with my lathe.

>> No.1716911

>>1716897
How much does that cheese grater cost?

>> No.1716913

>>1716911
If you have to ask then you can't afford it

>> No.1716946

rrrRREEEE

owww fuck

these fucking moon dust tiny little ass steel chips stick to every part of my fucking hands holy fuck these things suck

>> No.1716991

>>1716946
duck tape to the rescue

>> No.1717041

wot? wood chatters as well? i thought only metal could
that's gay

>> No.1717051

>>1716913
>>1716911
Approximation, but around 8k with inserts.

>> No.1717099

>>1717041
its probably your machine flexing. stiffen up your chinkshit, make better spindle bracket, fill your extrusions with cement or epoxy, bigger bearings or actual rails, ect

>> No.1717216

>>1715324
>all cnc mills work the same, they just come in different sizes and shapes
Eh there is quite a difference between bigboi level milling and doing precise small parts.

But afaik titan is not doing the really bigboi shit. Even hydraulic press channel does a better job at doing big boi machining.

>> No.1717348

>>1717216
The big parts titan does are more complicated though.

Big + complicated = super fucking expensive

>> No.1717530
File: 2.98 MB, 3492x4656, 20191116_200338~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1717530

So is this some special thing or just a universal backplate or something? Its for a lathe, 10" diameter. Came with the machine (used) with no part numbers or other text stamped on it.

>> No.1717567

I want to buy a milling machine from the chinks, more especifically the wmd25v which looks exactly like the precision matthews pm-25mv.
Can I trust the chinks? I don't have enough money for a second try and I still need to get endmills and other accesories.
I am also planing on maybe converting it to CNC in the future.

>> No.1717600

>>1717530
It's a faceplate. You use clamps and screws to fix shit to it.

>> No.1717626

>>1717567
ehh the ways are probably machined instead of scraped, and if they are scraped it's most assuredly a half-assed job.

>> No.1717640

rrrreeee

still have a couple big ones stuck in my fucking thumb fuck

>> No.1717729

>>1717567
>Can I trust the chinks?

Yes. You can absolutely trust them to deliver cast iron garbage with angle grinder "scraped" ways, wobbly spindles, 3 point contact in every connection and every little space will be packed with casting sand and grinding dust.

That said, i own a chinese RF45 clone and a small bandsaw. Both work ok. If you know what you're getting into you can get a lot for your money. I like the idea of viewing chinese macihnes as a kit.

Also the myth that the accessories cost at least as much as the mill itself is no myth at all. It is absolutely true. I'd rather start out with small grinding vice and a GOOD ER collet chuck than with a KURT clone lots of parallels and all the collets you can think of.

Make parallels yourself (Stefan Gotteswinter has good videos on that) and buy 1-3 GOOD collets you will actually use. Buy the other sizes as you need them. That way you can save a lot of money. Harold Hall has some plans for clamps so you may even get around buying a vice directly at the start.

>> No.1717818

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KahPvIV2wj8

>> No.1717873

>>1717729
>Yes. You can absolutely trust them to deliver cast iron garbage with angle grinder "scraped" ways, wobbly spindles, 3 point contact in every connection and every little space will be packed with casting sand and grinding dust.
Can that be fixed to a usable degree?
If I lived in USA I wouldn't risk it with the chinks tb h
>>1717626
I was wondering why they had photos showing them scraping the machine, now I have an idea why

>> No.1718186

Anyone here have expierence working with harperizers? Been trying to find a users manual for one. Not much information about the machine, its green from 70s-80s the front has a plate that says Haper harperizer but i couldn't find anything online about it. Cant take pictures of it because aerospace.

>> No.1718189

>>1718186
*Harper

>> No.1718248

>>1717873
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXLk0mJOwJM

the problem with the scraping on my little Grizzly G0752 was that the scraping was gigantic and half-assed, they don't do fine scraping on cheap machines.

>> No.1718301

someone explain this scraping thing to me. if you want to make a flat surface can't you just use a surface grinder?

>> No.1718374

>>1718301
yeah but they are bearing surfaces with lots of contact with other flat pieces so they wring together like gauge blocks and you get stick slip and then they wear out faster becasue no room for oil between the surfaces.

>> No.1718378

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc45TXL-E9g

>> No.1718710

>>1716897
>When your endmill costs more than your mill

Any machine that will even hold the thing costs way more than the tool does.

>> No.1718805

So this noga deburring kit should arrive in the morning, going to use it on the last of these steel plates I finally got around to making.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8UK7ZF

>> No.1718809

>>1718710
I don't know if there's a quick and dirty rule of thumb for cutters like that, but I'm ready to shoot in the dark and call it "one hoursepower and one ton of cast iron per one of those inserts" to make full use of that thing.

>> No.1718849

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTQRRcBBEhU

>> No.1718924

NEW:

>>1718923
>>1718923