/diy/ - Do It Yourself

How do I 3D print blacks to pick cotton?

Fixed two of my printers this week. One just needed new thermistor wires. The other needed the Mini-Rambo board replaced. That specific printer has over 10,000 print hours on it now.

>>1630000
Nice quads.
The value of slaves crashed thanks to the cotton gin. So just print one of those instead.

First test print on my anycubic photon. Came out quite nice. Gonna try to print some miniatures tomorrow.

>>1630010
Holy crap, that looks nice, OP.

>>1630002
How the fuck do you juggle all them prints

>>1630013
Thanks. Hopefully the miniatures come out just as nice tomorrow. The auto supports set up on the anycubic software is kinda shit and ignores some points that really need them, but you can add them manually.

>>1630002
Jesus that quite the setup you got there. Nice.

>>1630002
>3D Solutech
Good choice in filament. Highly recommended for the price. I bought some Amolen glow in the dark pla, so hopefully it will be good enough.

>>1630002
>That specific printer has over 10,000 print hours on it now.
Pretty impressive to be honest.

>>1630017
>auto supports set up on the anycubic software is kinda shit
I honestly never use them, I always do them all by hand. Sucks that I can't do the diagonal lattice connections by hand, though.

Can't find any info on this other than scattered posts, do ABS and PLA bond together? I want to do some dual extrusion prints but one of the colours is a different material than the other one I want to use and I don't know what issues this will lead to (other than ABS shrinkage)

>>1630071
Just search youtube?

Probably much cheaper/easier to just to use some paint if you need multiple colors

Dissolving support is the main benefit for dual extrusion isn't it?

>>1630005
Well, no... The cotton gin made cotton fabric much more economical to produce, causing an increase in availability of cotton clothes, and the increased profitability and market actually led to a rapid rise in demand for slaves. US slavery-based plantations stood for over 60% of the world's cotton production, it's what made the south develop into an agriculture region based around wealthy plantations in the first place, making it more dependent on slaves than it was before.

Hey all, i'm printing this really large thing in vase mode, since it's the only way to have the print not take 6 days. What's the best way to reinforce the structure once it's finished, epoxy? Bedliner?

>>1630015
Preheat, knock the prints off with a small hammer(pei is bae), switch filament if needed, queue and start new prints in octoprint instances across 7 browser tabs. I have production checklists for orders in the print queue and they're in bags hanging on the other side of the closet.

>>1630071
They print at very different temperature changes so you would have to have a way to change the temp when you change the filament. You could always try it with a tiny print.

Why won't my ender 3 power my Pi 3 B+ throug the USB on the electronics box?

I've seen people do it before, is there a setting I have to enable or something?
It seems like I might have to power directly from my PSU

>>1630252
It's intentional, as a fault in the circuit board (which handles both 12V and 5V) could potentially feed 12V directly into the motherboard of a PC if a regulator fails. There are diodes on the board to ensure that power from the USB is one-way. That's why, when you plug the printer in with USB but with the power switch off, the screen still lights up. The 12V circuit is off, but you're still feeding 5V into the circuitboard through the one-way USB plug. If you want to power your Pi from the printer power supply, you'll need to splice a 5V regulator into the 12V main power cable. It honestly is probably easier to just get a phone charger to power it with, but if you absolutely want to run the Pi off the printer you can buy decent buck converters on ebay that'll do splendidly, or go to your local gas station to get a cigarette plug charger for cars, then just tear that apart and solder it in there. Just make sure it supports "fast charging" (three amps at least), or your pi will get brownouts.

>>1630268
this desu except ender 3 is 24V

playing around with rc airplane wing design, this thing is surprisingly strong against bending even though it only has two 3x0.5mm spars, though unfortunately it doesn't handle rotational load well at all so i'll have to revise it a bit

>>1630273
pick up that trash

>>1630277
Rude.

>>1630272
>>1630268
Oh jeez. I'll use a phone charger then.
Thanks lads.

>>1630280
If you, like me, quickly get annoyed with how the screen stays lit even when the printer is off, do what this guy did.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7vwn1m/cr10s_octoprint_voltage_feedback/dtwaala/

It disconnects the 5V from the pi, and prevents it from powering the printer screen. If you live in a studio apartment, it's really nice.

>>1630268
>>1630280
You could theoretically solder a wire from the 5V pin on the screen connector (it's through-hole, so this is easily accessed from the back of the circuit board) to the 5V pin on the micro-usb (a bit fiddlier, since this is tiny and surface-mount). I don't know how much power the printer regulator is capable of, but it might be enough to run a Pi. If you do something like that, just make sure to never plug the printer into a computer you don't mind risking to lose. A pi is a fair bit more tolerable of voltage fluctuations than a real PC is.
Honestly if you want to integrate your pi into the printer like this, I'd just buy a replacement control board. There are 32 bit ones designed to output enough power to run a Pi, and probably even some Chinese abomination that integrates the Pi directly onto a RAMPs even. The Ender circuit board is pretty low quality, if you're going to mess around with it you might as well drop in a better board altogether. One with enough memory and IO to let you run both autoleveling, SD card and filament sensor.

>>1630286
A pi wants at least 3.1amps of power, there's no way the Ender 3 on-board regulator is anywhere near that. It's only meant to power an Arduino and the little screen.

>>1630280
The Pi comes with a wall-wart. It'll provide the 5V 3A supply.

>>1630277
its a dog chew toy
the dog may pick it up

>>1630101
You can print without infill and without top layers and still have it do like 2 walls

>>1630311
What? No it doesn't.

>>1630372
why tf arn't there more micro centers

Printed this with the auto supports on the anycubic software. Definitely gonna be doing all the supports by hand from now on. Way to much cleanup on this many supports.

so, what are the risk with an E3D v6 clone ?
Is PETG melting point too high for the E3D lite6 ?
Can I go higher than 50mm/s with a lite6 ?

>>1630399
>so, what are the risk with an E3D v6 clone ?
poor machining leading to increased friction and clogging inside the hotend
>Is PETG melting point too high for the E3D lite6 ?
depends on the filament. if you want to go over 245-250c you need an all-metal hotend, which the Lite6 is not. The original V6 is.
>Can I go higher than 50mm/s with a lite6 ?
no, different hotends will not give you increased speed beyond weight reductions. If you want higher speeds, you need a more rigid printer.

>>1630399
>so, what are the risk with an E3D v6 clone ?
The risk with any clone is bad quality control and the resulting faulty components. Usually it's the electronical gubbins, so thermistor or heater cartridge.
>Is PETG melting point too high for the E3D lite6 ?
Lite6 can go to 245C, which is plenty for most the PETG I use (InnoPET). Depends on the brand, really.
>Can I go higher than 50mm/s with a lite6 ?
Extrusion volume equals nozzle diameter times layer height times print speed. You may be able to go over 50mm/s print speed with a better hotend since it increases extrusion volume, but most consumer printers don't like increasing print speed because it causes ringing and such. You're better off increasing layer height or nozzle diameter, although both of those also decrease visual fidelity of your prints. Only when you have maxed out layer height and nozzle diameter to your liking should you increase print speed, and only when that bottlenecks is when you really should upgrade your hotend.

>>1630406
>>1630408
I guess the E3D clone is not a good choice then
Thanks for the brand, InnoPET makes PET with a melting point of ~210° which is good enough for the lite6
I guess that with a rigid ultimaker-clone-design and a lite6 bowden, print will be good enough
thanks again guys

>>1630414
the original v6 doesn't cost that much more than the lite6, and opens up doors to all kinds of other materials. i actually don't understand the target demographic or why anyone would ever buy the lite6 over the v6.

>>1630418
>i actually don't understand the target demographic or why anyone would ever buy the lite6 over the v6.
The target demographic is those guys who gotta go fast - 120+mm/s. You really want to minimise the inertia of moving components in that case - but the real chads among us just accomplish the same extrusion volume with a 1.2mm nozzle and 0.8mm layer height, burning at a leisurely 30mm/s.

>>1630418
you can make a double lite6 ( PLA+PVA ) for the price of one v6

>>1630423
the lite6 weighs 22g more than the v6 my dude
>>1630426
or you could not be retarded and get a chimera

>>1630429
>or you could not be retarded and get a chimera
same price as 2 v6 and more expensive than 2 lite6

>>1630390
Try out Asura 2.2.2 by Peopoly. Its way easier to create manual supports than the photons slicer. You will still have to slice with photon tho.

>>1630438
Does it come with an option to hollow out a model? Cause I've been messing with the anycubic software and have yet to find that option. feels like that would be standard on any resin printer slicer.

>>1630441
it does

Where can i upload 3D scans of stuff where they can be found almost forever?
Im thinking the mainstream sites are moderated and stuff gets removed fast.

>>1630390
Suggestion: get rid of supports before post-curing. The resin is still a bit flexible and easier to remove at that point.

>>1630482
mega
google drive

>>1630326

That's what i'm doing, but the structure is'nt as rigid as i want. It would ideally need 4-5 perimeters for proper rigidity, but that would increase print time significantly.

itt: times you acted like the joker
>ordering a single belt from an industrial supply company

>>1630510
>government issues rule that you have to pay an import fee on every shipment from China. The postal service is allowed to hold anything coming in for a month, and if you don't pay they send it back to the sender at their own expense.
>fee isn't huge, roughly seven dollars/euros, but it's the principle of the thing
>also pretty upsetting when you want to buy, say, one nozzle, and the import fee is a dozen times bigger than the cost of the thing itself, but this is still cheaper than buying the horrifically marked up worse than China tier shit electronics shops sell
>discover that you can buy those foam packing peanuts from aliexpress really cheaply
>buy a few pallets worth of the shit for some pocket change
I thought it was pretty clever. That rubbish would have taken up a lot of space in their warehouse for a month, and I imagine it's significantly more expensive for them to ship it back than it was for the Chinese to ship it here. I used to work at DHL so I have an idea what transport costs for businesses are, and I think both the actual bags of foam and the shipping cost me a tenth as much as it would have cost the post office to send it back.

Though in reality what probably happened was that they threw it all out as garbage rather than send it back. I know people on forums who claimed they were buying individual buttons in individual parcels just to make extra work for the post offices, and I don't imagine anyone bothered sending that shit back either.

I just miss being able to buy cheap ball bearings by buying assortment packs of fidget spinners on ebay. Now my cheapest option is a hardware store where I get one ball bearing for the same money that used to buy me a dozen.

>>1630549
>import fee is flat rate instead of percentage
What the fuck? That sucks.

>>1630552
Oh, no, it's both. It's 25% of the value of the item + a flat rate of 75SEK for "handling", or 125SEK if the thing is worth more than 1600SEK. 10 SEK = 1 EURO/1USD for reference.

>>1630482
What are you posting that you are worried would be removed?

>>1630414
As someone that used all parts from everything and used it to print over 50kg of filament:
Get some decent aluminium heatsink and aluminium heat block from aliexpress (e.g. from trianglelab), get a plated nozzle and heat break from e.g. micro swiss (if you are from europe mapa refining ones are also good), the heater cartridge and thermistor should be from E3D. This combination has been working best for me so far price to performance wise in the higher performance department. Most likely overkill for you, but it it is conviniently reliable and you dont have to test your way through everything like i did.

>>1630555
>SEK
i thought the whole swedes = cucks thing was a joke, but holy shit

>>1630510
>>ordering a single belt from an industrial supply company
Was kinda the opposite way for me.
>wanna order belt
>belt is discontinued to be sold in their industrial supply shop
>only one is left
>buy it
>"What is the name of your firm? Also the number of belts you ordered is too low "
> "eeehh..." really did a long eeeehhh noice at that moment
>"You cant order when you are not a firm and it is just too low quantiti....wait... no firm is going to buy that single lone belt, you can have it, just going to add some blanks in the ordering form"
>proceeds to type somthing into his keyboard
And that is how i got my belt and a receipt adressed to the "Eeeehhh" firm.

I bought Amolen glow in the dark filament. It glows for a very long time

>>1630594
what would you possibly print with such a filament?

>>1630595
I'm unsure. I'm currently printing a benchy as a test.

I heard it is a very abrasive material like carbon fiber, so I'll need to get a hardened nozzle.

>>1630595

Glow-in-the-dark dragon dildos. Duh.

>>1630604
you think this is a fucking game?
I got to this point before I realized how prohibitively expensive silicone is in the quantities needed to create 2-part molds of this size. I theorize that 3d printing a mold and then casting the part directly would be more effective, however ridges which become divots when inverted would be hard to sand smooth.

>>1630607
>how prohibitively expensive silicone is in the quantities needed to create 2-part molds of this size.

Then don't use silicone. Use alginate. Way cheaper, with the caveat being that it's single-use. Obviously not a problem in this context, so go nuts.

>you think this is a fucking game

That's exactly what it is, yes.

>>1630609
>Then don't use silicone. Use alginate. Way cheaper, with the caveat being that it's single-use.
That's a good idea, I'll check it out when I eventually return to this project, thanks anon.
>That's exactly what it is, yes.
This is high seas piracy anon. Going where no retard has gone before probably, utilizing esoteric skillsets such as WebGL mesh extraction and rubbing scratchy paper on plastic. But that's enough on this topic, I don't wanna get banned.

>>1630607
If you have a 3D printer to print the dildo, why don't you print a structure?
It would be strong for big "silicon sculptures".
Leaving like 10mm around the dildo, this would allow you to poor little silicon, but still have all the advantages.
You can put the align pins on the 3D structure to allow perfect alignment each time.
Put whatever you want on the first half of the mold, put the dildo, close the enclosure and poor silicon.
When set, remove the whatever, close the enclosure again (automatically adjusted thanks to the pins) and poor the remaining silicon.
You can make more than two part molds and easily add any holder for whatever tubes you want to cast in your "silicon sculpture".

>>1630607
I don't see a problem with what you're posting, it's just alien tabletop terrain like the Tyranids from 40k with some added flexibility so they don't break when you handle them during transport, right?

I'd love to see how these terrain pieces develop as I'm kind of wanting to design my own after seeing some pretty neat colours

>>1630607
There was a method for rough molds depending on how the part is formed, but you need to be okay with loss of detail and slightly off dimensions:
>Print both mold parts
>paint the inner parts with water diluted glue stick
>stick the parts together and let it dry
>pour a little amount of silikone into the mold and keep turning til it touched all surfaces
>then turn it upside down and the excess silicone that aint need flow out and let it cure
>the mold should now have a thin silicone skin on the inside now
>pour some sort of mold release in the mold, apply it to all surfaces
>let it dry if it should need that
>pour the silicone into the mold til it is full and let it cure completly
>open the mold, the skin silicone part should rip and fall partly off the mold
>free the thing you wanted to mold of the skin
Pretty sure that it requires some testing, but it might work for you. Welp, any idea might help.

>>1630621
Pic related is what I found recently and am curious about what materials they used to get such vibrant colors, it's something I didn't expect to be possible on non-mass-produced scales

If you're having trouble sanding the parts you print, consider making an acetone vapor chamber or figuring out some way to smooth it with acetone in general; you probably don't need very small details like you would for tabletop figurines, so some loss of detail would be a good tradeoff to get a decent mold from it.

Regarding cost of the materials: if you're still testing things, I know some people chop up their old experiments (like, in a blender) and mix it with fresh material to use as filler so it's cheaper than using a 100% new mix

>>1630618
I've thought about that, however creating a box shape that is strong enough, reduces the required volume enough, and is easy to fill without bubbles with a moderately viscous material is kind of complicated.

>>1630621
>I'd love to see how these terrain pieces develop as I'm kind of wanting to design my own after seeing some pretty neat colours
quick rundown
>use ninjaripper on D3D9 Frontent with an old version of firefox, use forced-extraction
>when old firefox launches, go to BD website and select 3D view
>hit forced extract key
>take the .rip output and use https://github.com/xpawelsky/RipImport to import them into blender 2.8, in the import settings change TU to 3 and TV to 4
>split into as many segments as you require for your print volume or time limitations
>print
>glue all segments together
>use durham's rock hard putty (cheap as shit at home depot and works just as well as expensive wood filler) to fill any large gaps
>hit it with a few coats of high build filler primer
>sand smooth
that's as far as I've gotten, theoretical next steps:
>create mold
>mix 2 parts klean-strip odorless mineral spirits with 1 part GE clear silicone 1 and 1 part corn starch (i have tested many ratios and found this to be the best combination of firmness and pourability)
>mix quickly as this shit sets beyond pourability in like 3 minutes
>add any pigments you require, make sure they're lip-safe as some used in makeup are fine for skin, but not sensitive areas like lips
>pour
>vacuum degas if you have one
>wait 24 hours
>demold
>wait a few days for it to finish offgassing
>clean
>done

>>1630630
>mix 2 parts klean-strip odorless mineral spirits with 1 part GE clear silicone 1 and 1 part corn starch
That sounds wrong on many many levels.

>>1630638
the mineral spirits thin the silicone making it pourable, and the corn starch is hygroscopic and allows moisture (the curing catalyst) to be spread throughout the cast - a single drop of Acrylic paint can also be used for this purpose. The thinning agent will evaporate as the cast cures.

>>1630601
>>1630595
>>1630594
A ghost benchy

>have to sit by the printer for the whole print because the spool of filament keeps getting tangles.

>>1630644
it doesn't keep getting tangles, it has a tangle that you didn't fix right. To prevent this from happening in the future, never let go of the free end of the filament when you're getting it set up, if you let it go it can uncoil just enough to create a tangle. Always secure it to either the spool or the printer.

>>1630645
learned about this too late... now I have 2 tangled spools.

>>1630647
You can fix it, anon. After you're done printing, untangle the filament.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c20nrF4b8-g

>>1630647
Why dont you male it three while you are at it?

>>1630630
I know that Smooth-On makes some pretty good products; I've been meaning to try out their Dragon Skin for a while but haven't gotten around to it (and also have nobody to use it on). The trial size seems to be a reasonable price for the amount you get unless you're looking for something particularly large, doubly so if you find an inert filler or use a core for it. There's also a gallon unit available for about 25% savings.

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-10-medium/

>>1630002
>>1630176
Can you tell us a little more about your business ?

I'm interested in getting some filaments with metal powder in them (like copper or brass), is there any specific brand you all know of or can recommend (or advise against)?

>>1630718
Make sure you have a hardened nozzle, that shit goes through nozzles like shit through a pigeon.

>>1630552
same work for the post office if it's one brass nozzle or ten, therefore the import fee is flat, or has a flat component to it

>>1630549
That makes complete sense
If not for that seven euros the government would be making loss when it comes to packages imported from China for example, and that would mean that they would be basically giving free money to China and its growing industries and that's a thing we don't want to be doing for sure.
These import fees are a direct response to the emarket boom, some places already have them put in effect, others haven't yet.

>>1630560
3D scans of products. They are chinese knockoffs, so technically im not copying the original manufacturers products...

What can I do and what can't I do with the ender 3 and should i go with the ender 3 pro instead no experience with 3d printing but wanna make cool shit

>>1630589
I know, my country is absolutely awful. I'm in second year of university now, three more and I'll have a master's degree and can start looking for jobs abroad. I've vacationed in Texas, so that's kind of my dream. Anything as long as it isn't the EU really.

>>1630772
You can make things like functional musical instruments, to phone cases, or random shit like toys.

>>1630607
Look for silicone used for casting molds for cookies.
I found a local source thats like 13usd/kg, compared to 50usd the dragonskin its pretty cheap.

>>1630630
Why fuck around when theres a whole siterip with models, bumpmaps and textures: >>1439408
And with a bumpmap you can burn in more detail like this: >>1442815

>>1630775
>Texas
The age of the pickup and AR16 is ending though, and it's because of cucks like you and Californians ruining their own homes with liberal BS and then moving to Texas to ruin the last unspoiled places too. Austin is warmer than Sweden, but other than that I don't think you'll notice much difference.

>>1630778
>phone cases
With the ender 3? Not really. Decent phone cases need to be made from flexy materials, and the closest to flex the Ender 3 can print well is PETG. A PETG case is a bad idea.

Not to mention that you're spending a lot of money buying a 3D printer to print... a phone case, which you could buy a much better one, with any logo or whatever you want, for a fraction of the cost from those custom shops.
>>1630772
You need to know what you want the printer for before you buy it. If you're just going to print trash off thingiverse, look on ebay instead. You can buy trash much cheaper there. If you want a 3D printer to, say, fix that one broken fitting in your fridge, go on something like xyz instead and pay someone with a printer to print it for you. It'll be much cheaper, even if you're going to have dozens of things printed. If you just buy a 3D printer for fun, you're going to print a box worth of trash the first week, and then put it in the garage to rot once you run out of ideas. It's more of a tool than a toy.

Primed and painted to make the details actually noticeable. Not sure if I even want to use my ender 3 anymore since most of what I print are models and miniatures anyways.

>>1630850
>most of what I print are models and miniatures
did you actually model any of the models yourself?

>>1630718
Formfutura and Colorfabb are decent. You just need to keep in mind that you are getting a lot less filament through the higher density and it is already pretty expensive on its own.

>>1630858
No, but that is something I would like to learn how to do. So far its been D&D shit I find on thingiverse and myminifactory.

>>1630709
I sell horribly overpowered spring-plunger Nerf blasters, both assembled and as hardware kits so you can print them out yourself.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223214/

>>1630002
>you will never afford a lulzbot

>>1630775
Isn't Texas full of racist gun-toting rednecks who execute mentally retarded people?

>>1630951
Excuse me, but we only execute the mentally retarded gays, thank you very much.

>>1630893
I taught myself how to make D&D minis with Blender, it's pretty dope.

>>1630951
that sounds pretty based tbqh

>>1630947
I always hear that they're poorly designed and break a lot so it's probably for the best.

>>1630968
I thought they were better than Ultimaker?
>>1630955
>>1630967
Yeehaw!

>>1630772

I don't know why people bash that printer but it's a very capable once you spend time learning it and upgrading a few things here and there. Anons on DIY have upgraded their ender 3's so much that I would say the quality is that of a thousand dollar printer, like that one anon in the previous thread here.

>>1629894

>>1631001
Sure, if you put in thousands of dollars of time and parts you can get a thousand dollar printer out of it.

>>1631012
>Sure, if you put in thousands of dollars of time and parts you can get a thousand dollar printer out of it.
True - but the time of the average anon ITT is not worth much. If you're on a tight monetary budget but you have quite a lot of spare time, upgrading yourself makes sense, most upgrade parts are quite cheap.

>>1631012

lmao this.

just looking at that picture I can see over a hundred dollars worth of upgrades, that doesn't even include the time spent installing it, calibrating it, printing parts needed for it to work.

What ABL method do you guys reckon I (a newocomer to 3d printing with no electronics or engineering knowlege) should get?

>>1631018
>SKR mini E3 $35
>Pi 3 $25
>Glass bed $3
>Capricorn tubing and new couplers $10
>Aluminium extruder bits $10
>3Dtouch (fake BLTouch) $14
tru

>>1631017
this desu, opportunity cost and all that

>>1631012
not nearly a thousand dollars desu

>>1631021
bltouch desu

>>1631001
you're delusional
the foundation of the ender, the frame, is sub par, "cheap"

>>1630947
Refubished mini v1.04 is $1,000 unless there's an overstock sale going on. Lowest I paid was $800.
>>1630947
>poorly designed
Maybe. They are overly simplistic, but more than a few things about them are really well-thought-out. Changing filament is a significantly faster process on these than on the dozen other printers I've owned or used.
>break a lot
Not in my experience. Every single one of these in my closet has gone 5,000 hours without needing any maintenance. The only consistent weak spot I've had with all of them is in the cable carrier and cables for the Y-axis. I don't think they're using the correct grade of wires for the limit switches and thermistor wires and one wire in those three pairs will eventually go to crap. On the used one I bought I just tossed out the cable carrier completely and swapped the side that that wires come out of the build plate and ran it that way for months with no issues.
>>1630971
>I thought they were better than Ultimaker?
I would argue that they're the same, but I frankly have a better opinion of Lulzbot as a company given where they have been, where they are heading, and how easy they are to interact and work with.
I take some of the criticisms of Ultimaker differently because they do almost exclusively sell to schools that are setting up print labs, and that's a very harsh environment. However I don't have a positive opinion of where they're going with their business model.

I'm the wrong person to ask about kit printers. I don't have the luxury of free time and everything I buy has to start printing the day I get it or it won't be worth investing in.

This flexi dragon glows brighter than the CIA

today i decided to print a thing but when i tried to preheat the print bed it wouldn't heat up at all so i unplugged it and gave it a once over and the only thing i noticed was there was a exposed wire that might have been making a shirt or something so i tapped it up and plugged it back in and now it won't turn on at all, the fuse in the power supply looks ok and nothing looks or smells burned

my only guess is that i need a new psu and if it makes any difference this is the printer i'm running https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXFSCRC

the exposed wire runs from the computer board to a mos and that goes to the hotbed

any tips?

>>1631038
Have you tried running the PSU while unconnected to the printer?

>>1631040

i haven't but there's a led on the psu that supposed to come on when it's plugged in but it's not going on so i guessed the problem is in the psu, should i try unhooking everything anyway?

>>1631043
It's possible that the printer tries to draw too much current and the PSU instantly turns off as a result.

>>1631050
tried it and nothing, guessing i shorted something without killing the fuse somehow

Are there any good resources for troubleshooting with an sla printer floating around? I didnt see much about sla in the op, but mine has started failing every print after I cleaned the vat and switched resins.

>>1630850
Turn the ender 3 into a terrain factory

>>1630964
Is it easy to figure out anon? Been scouring the interwebs for an usagi yojimbo fig without any luck and will probability need to custom make him

>>1631120
Although it might work with ender 3, Anet a8 would be much better choice to have in a fireplace.
But that is actually really good idea.

>>1631120
>>1631140
Heat rises. Even if the flue is closed you're probably still letting a lot of heat escape.

>>1631120
>waiting for Santa to drop in with that dragondildo stl

>>1631145
>>1439408

>>1631028
Could you tell me what benefits your prints have over, say, a Prusa? I guess I am trying to ask what does your printer offer to justify its cost? Genuinely curious.

>>1629717
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3-Comtrol-Board-32-Bit-With-TMC2209-UART-Stepper-Motor-Driver-VS-TMC2208/33042895478.html

mid-year sale btw

my next project will be pic related. is there anything wrong with using glow in the dark filament when you are going to sand and paint over it?

>>1631241
yes
expense

Just use whatever prints the best at the smallest nozzle size you have.

>>1631244

I'm doing it full scale so it can be worn. found the model on thingiverse, has an exploded model, extracted them each to stl. the helm itself will be split into 8 pieces because i just don't have the build volume, but with loctite ultra gel and some jbweld it will be solid.

>>1631194
>Could you tell me what benefits your prints have over, say, a Prusa?
The (assembled) Prusa offers more features per dollar, and the spring steel buildplate is something that wasn't available when I was weighing the decision.
When I bought my first lulzbot mini I had the need to be able to easily transport the printer regularly, which the mostly enclosed frame allowed for and I didn't have to worry about it ever going out of square.
One thing I really like about the lulzbot is parts availability. I depend on these printers for income, so being able to get replacements parts or assemblies next-day through Amazon or directly from lulzbot is really nice.

If I had to make the decision over again today I'm not really sure which I would go with.

>>1631244
For a full size helmet like that that's going to be sanded and painted anyways, why not use a .8 nozzle and .4-.6 layer heights?

>>1631273

I'm doing the ear muffs now with .4 and .16 layer heights but that's a good idea for the helmet itself, i have that diameter sized nozzle but never tried it.

here they are separated, missing some of the smaller pieces but that should be easy to print once i get there. got 3 rolls of atomic filament grey for birthday.

>>1631109
I mean, nothing is easy. Blender requires quite a bit of tutorial watching and practice just to understand the tools and interface, and sculpting well requires rough understanding of anatomy, composition, volume/form, etc etc, art stuff.

You could always find a clothed samurai mini that already exists, remove the head and replace it with a rabbit one then paint some angry eyebrows in. Can do that just with Meshmixer.

>>1631227

Hey nice, this might be the cheapest Trinamic+32bit ARM board on sale right now. I wonder what the catch is...

>>1631459
>I wonder what the catch is...
Dunno, looks good.
But I only need some new drivers.

I am trying to use custom supports in Cura. When I slice the model and go to preview the model is solid, but the supports I made appear cleared out. Is that normal?

I did not feel confident in the supports printing so I paused the print before I had to go to work so I could watch it to see of the supports are working. How long can I effectily pause a print? Could I pause PLA for 12 hours?

>>1630507
try slushing the inside with some epoxy. i remember doing this with pepakura models before getting into 3dp.

>>1631459
>I wonder what the catch is...
Well, the only things I can spot so far:
- No exchangeable drivers, but the TMC2209 are state of the art
- They use an STM32F103RC MCU (ARM Cortex M3, 64k RAM, no FPU)
https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f103rc.html
but the official Marlin 2.0 HAL is just in development
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x
and they use an STM32F401
https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f401ve.html
(ARM Cortex M4, with FPU, also 96k RAM (+ 32k makes quite a difference for embedded software)) as a basis
should not be a problem if bigtreetech makes solid software, but:
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/issues
looks a bit concerning

However, you can't really complain for that price.

>>1631227
>>1631482
how the fuck do you connect lcd to this board? it has only 1 socket, but standard 12864 LCD needs 2 of them.

>>1631487
dunno about standard lcd's, but the lcd from my ender 3 is connected through a 10 pin cable, and the skr-mini-e3 has also a 10 pin connector:

>>1631487
>>1631493
ahh, there it is:
https://github.com/RudolphRiedel/CR-10_wiring/blob/master/Ender3_schematic.PDF

>>1631500
>>1631493
damn, i guess ill have to get a new lcd too if i want to upgrade to this board

>>1631501
after all, this board looks like an upgrade especially for the ender 3.
This "smoothieboard" has a two connector lcd interface:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32980090169.html
there are a lot of other, more or less cheap boards, out there.

>>1631503
Or you make your own board.
Or modify an open source one:
RemRam, Marlin 2, thicc ARM Cortex-M7 with fpu and dsp:
https://github.com/hasenbanck/remram

>>1631503
as someone still fairly new to 3dprinting with an ender 3, what benefits would upgrading the board give me?

>>1631482

So you could say the catch is that the microcontroller is a bit underpowered. But considering we've been using Atmegas for so long it's probably not such a bad thing to cut corners with. I wonder how hot the TMC2209s get, the Duet2's use TMC2660s because they can handle higer current and thus run cooler.

>>1631540

Quieter operation mostly, and higher microstepping. Maybe some possibility of having a fancy TFT screen in the future since the faster CPU can handle it. It appears to be missing the networking feature of the expensive boards like the Duet2 and Smoothie, that might be what makes it more affordable.

>>1631540
no idea
as my Ender 3 already has a board, I just ordered TMC2209 driver sticks

>>1631144
This. Good for fumes/smells, but between the heat rising out, and cold drafts, you won't be able to keep a consistent temp

>>1631540
faster 32-bit processor, more memory, but mainly much less noise like other anon said, and since you have more space, you can enable things like linear advance, s-curve acceleration, junction deviation, unified bed leveling, etc. without having to disable other things.

>>1631573
>I wonder how hot the TMC2209s get
it's also overspecced for what the ender 3 motors need (2.8A vs 0.725/0.9A, 2208 is 2A peak), and they keep saying how each new version requires less cooling but I haven't seen anyone do any tests

>>1630643
NICE

>>1630933
Did you create them by yourself ?

I've been having oozing issues with this white PLA lately, it seems like no matter what i do i get banding on some layers like what's pictured here. I decide to pause mid-print and swap the filament to this more "natural" uncolored PLA and suddenly the rest of the print starts coming out perfect.

Has anybody here studied how different pigments affect the properties of PLA and how to remedy the problems that come with them? I've noticed that the brighter and more opaque the PLA's colour, the more these oozing issues arise, regardless of manufacturer. It feels like white is always more "runny" compared to the others and requires something like a lower flow rate to work right.

>>1631120
At least you won't have to worry if it catches on fire.

>>1631670
It is a nice filament, but I heard it can damage nozzles that aren't hardened.

have you printed with an abrasive filament recently?

if you haven't touched your configurations and your print quality is degrading, then your printer likely needs some kind of maintenance. here's a list of things for you to check, in order of most likely to least. These are generic and are not specific to oozing

- Nozzle wear, try replacing the nozzle (im almost certain this is what your problem is)
- A spring loaded component in your extruder needs to be tightened or has lost its springyness
- Debris in extruder, especially on the exruder gear itself
- Belts have lost tension
- Bearings need grease/replacement

>>1631697
Different brands and pigments have different mixes and different properties that may affect extrusion.

Lets say I cut a model how strong will something like jb-weld hold it together?

>>1631768
the print will fail before the jb weld does, but jb weld is a bitch to sand smooth.

I have like 4 rolls that I don't know exactly how much filament they have and i dont have a scale to weigh them. is there anyway i can refuse them together into 1 filament roll?

>>1631875
soldering iron/lighter and splice them together

>>1631892

yeah id probably fuck up or not trust that fuse. what do you think about something like this? https://www.tindie.com/products/JasonKits/3d-printer-filament-fuser-filament-joiner-kit/ I want a more automated way to fuse them without buying the pallet.

Finally finished the AK-47 from Rust

what do you think waste of money or it will help?

>>1631687
Yes. I've been producing and selling them for 2 years now. It's gone through a lot of revisions.

>>1631904
can you cock it?

>>1631965
sadly not that accurate of a recreation

>>1631904
Why?

>>1631904
Neat, you gonna paint it next?

>>1632001
yeah absolutely. thinking of doing a rust cosplay but i gotta dedide how best how best to make it identifiable. maybe the road sign armor

>>1631907
help with what?
emptying your bank account, yes.

The beginning of a 40 hour project. A ukulele that glows in the dark

>>1632032
Can you upload a recording of how it sounds?

>>1631120
1000 IQ thinking
>now if only i had a fireplace

>>1632037
Once I'm done printing it I will.
I have the strings already since I already play the uke, but I'm thinking of using 3D printed tuning pegs instead of buying some. It might get out of tune much faster, but I don't want to buy tuning pegs as I don't know which will work with this or not and I'm lazy.

testing concrete casting

>>1632079
>concrete casting
It looks like you've smeared grout on the edges of a printed part. What am I missing? Or is that the cast part?

>>1629997
Want to get into 3d-printing and I think I'm going to buy an ender 5. Should I or are there better models at this pricepoint?

>>1631907

Not sure what you're needing help with exactly. Spider coupings are used in applications where a shaft changes direction a lot, the plastic part dampens that. Spiral beam couplings are used when you can't align the leadscrew perfectly, so the coupling takes up this slight misalignment. In either case 18$ is too high for these, there are cheaper ones on ebay and ali.

>>1632085
Ender 5 is not proven yet, Ender 3 is fine.

>>1632085
What is your budget? The ender 3 is a great budget printer from what I hear. The monoprice maker select v2 is another good choice

>>1632093
I don't plan to pay more than the 320 euros the ender 5 costs, since I also have to buy smoothers and other quintessential upgrades I find on the internet.

>>1632095
smoothers aren't essential at all

>>1632096
Don't they improve the quality and noise by a lot?

>>1632098

Don't get sucked into the pretty advertising for various upgrades until you experience a need for them first-hand. I bought some expensive fancy-pantsy hall effect endstops when i was sourcing my printer and ended up not using them because regular mechanical microswitches worked perfectly from the start.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snapmaker/snapmaker-20-modular-3-in-1-3d-printers

thoughts?

>>1632143
Why the fuck is there a "phone" near it?
Don't expect too much of the carving I think.

>>1632145
>Why the fuck is there a "phone" near it?
it is indeed a full blown
>5" Smart Touchscreen (Android OS, Quad Core A7 CPU @ 1.1GHz)
I guess the hipsters need something to touch.
Not that it would be needed as the main system is a Cortex M-4...

>>1632143
>thoughts?
I wouldn't want CNC carving in the same room as FDM printing, because the dust would be everywhere.

>want big boi LED to make a little light that illuminates the print as it's printing
>go to dollar tree
>buy cheap shitty flashlight
>squeeze with clamp until LED module falls out
ez 1W cool white LED, if anyone else wants to make such a light. wish it was warm white, but they don't exactly label the color temperature on dollar store flashlights.

>>1632173
also scavengable from dollar tree items is a 7-40V to 5V DC buck converter if you want to run a 5V fan off a 12/24v system, they come out of USB car chargers.

>>1632173
>want big boi LED
>buy
reeeeeeeeeeeee!
you have to /diy/!

>>1632181
The rest of the machine is DIY enough, I think. Plus, with this, I don't have to worry about finding a heat sink because it has its own.

Note on the buck converter - check the caps before you hook it up to a 24v supply, or this happens. "25V" caps on this one, though you could just swap them out for higher voltage ones and you'd be fine; beats waiting for a shipment from China anyways.

>>1632192
>10 µSpaghetti cap

So, im trying to print this lampshade but this is the second time i have holes appearing in this area. I tried increasing the wallthickness but it doesnt appear to have an effect in the preview and endresult.
Anything i can change to prevent this?
Is the angle to steep?

>>1632192
I understood that reference

>>1632204

Did you increase the wall thickness of the model or just the minimum perimeters? Because the latter isn't going to do anything

>>1632217
The model itself is closed so i just went for 0 infill, spiralextrusion (i think thats how it translates) and set the walllayers for 3.

>>1632220

That won't work, if the model has a wall thinner than your nozzle diameter, the slicer is just going to leave that area as a hole. If you can't edit the model, try scaling the whole thing up by 10% or so, that might be enough to get it to do a wall at least 1 perimeter thin there.

>>1632147
> Has a fucking CAN bus
Oh, the licensing fees alone...

>>1632231
>licensing fees
is it a problem?
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/285611/can-bus-licensing

>>1632231
WTF are you talking about?
CAN is free to use.
It even have an ISO.
It's a good idea to use it, you can add afterwards "any" sensor you want to the printer.

>>1632228
i already did make a bigegr version at 130%. this time, i had holes elsewhere :^(
could increased filamentflow help? or will i just end up with ugly blobs everywhere?

>>1632253
>>1632228
i also noticed that the wallthickness does seem to chnge when i tirn spiralextrusion off. is there a way to get around this?

I'm so glad I woke up last night, I forgot to hollow him and when I went to check on the print there was literally one layer of resin left in the vat
I absolutely adore Elgoo grey

>>1632204
>>1632220
>>1632255
Vase mode (spiral extrusion) spirals the nozzle up in a single wall thickness and so changing walls doesn't help. turn it off, set 0% infill instead.

>>1632261
>estimated time of print: 28 hours
JUST

>>1632253
>>1632255

You can attempt to be cheeky and set the nozzle diameter to be smaller, then increase the extrusion multiplier a bit. The *proper* thing to do would be to fix the model there though.

100 90-degree inclusive straight knurls on a 25mm diameter knob. 0.785mm knurl pitch. Pretty good for a $200 machine imo.

couple of questions, how can i change the 3d printer into inches? is there a gcode for that? and will i have to change the settings in cura to inches? is that possible? also how do i make supports less of a pain to remove? i know about tree supports but i don't use that unless i need to, how reliable is tree support? also how fast and accurate printer can i make for $1000? I want more than 100mm/s but good quality.

>>1632311
>how can i change the 3d printer into inches?
you don't

>>1632311
>how can i change the 3d printer into inches?
Stop, retard.
>also how do i make supports less of a pain to remove?
Play with support line distance.
>how reliable is tree support?
Use tree supports for an organic model, regular supports for hard-surface.
>also how fast and accurate printer can i make for $1000? I want more than 100mm/s but good quality.
Speed is inversely proportional to "quality" because you're limited by the rate at which you can push filament out of the nozzle. The smaller the nozzle, the lower the volume/sec you can lay down, the lower your max speed is. That said, if you build a very rigid, cuboid printer with a low moving mass you'll get better high-speed results and results in general than some shitty Prusa design.

>>1631953
They are very nice, did you start to make them because you were playing with nerf guns or you just felt like there was a business to take ?

>>1632317
>>how can i change the 3d printer into inches?
>Stop, retard.

>just like every other CNC machine in existence that easily swaps between the units it interprets the files as
>no I'm sure my retarded fucking "Cura" and "Slicer" bullshit shouldn't support superior AMERICAN units

>>1632321

>>1632311

Prepare to be disappointed in all of those aspects
- I don't think Cura or Slic3r support imperial units
- Supports are always a pain to remove and/or leave some type of blemishes, unless you're using a multi-material printer with either soluble supports, or something like PETG on PLA which dont stick too well to eachother. Under 1000$ perhaps a Prusa i3 with a multimaterial unit on it. More than that - an Ultimaker3
- Tree support is more for SLA, FDM printers aren't that great with long thin objects stretching on the Z axis. It sometimes works but it's not a preferred method
- Like the other anon said, speed is inversely proportional to quality, and it doesnt matter how much money you throw at it - you can only extrude a certain amount of plastic in a certain amount of time and have it be precise too. An ultimaker can pull off quicker speeds without introducing ringing artifacts but it's not some miracle cure, slow speeds are just something you're going to have to deal with.

>>1632335
>Under 1000$ perhaps a Prusa i3 with a multimaterial unit on it.
laughing_whores.jpg
You can build a vastly superior printer on half the price of a dual-extruder Prusa. A Voron 2.1 comes to mind. Something with rails.

The flow rate problem can be helped, not fixed, but helped by using a hotend with a large heat zone like an e3D with a Volcano heater block, this allows you to extrude faster because there is more "charged" filament ready to be spent, and allows you to feed faster because you're spending faster.
>Tree support is more for SLA, FDM printers aren't that great with long thin objects stretching on the Z axis.
FDM tree supports aren't sticks, they're cones. They're quite stable.

>>1632311
>how can i change the 3d printer into inches?
buy an american 3d printer!
oh, wait...

>>1632311
There is an addon for cura called barbarian units that is supposed to switch the measurements to inches. I have not used it though.

>>1632361
>There is an addon for cura called barbarian units
goddammit
is this real?

Should I do a full upgrade of my kossel or just buy another printer?
The idea of having a 'maxed-out' delta really floats my boat but I can see myself fucking it up and ending up with no printer.
On the other hand I don't really want to go back to cartesians.

>>1632408
>but I can see myself fucking it up and ending up with no printer
what have you done so far anon?
do you have three fingers on each hand?

1/4th of my ukulele completed

This piece took 15 or so hours

>>1632512
I’m 26% done with the top of the body then I have the neck and tuning pegs to print. It glows just like the cia

>>1632154
dust control is some witchey business ill give you that. Used to mill mdf all the time. Its some nasty shit.

>>1632367
It's great. You select the model, drop down menu and convert.

>>1632259
Link to resin? I'd also like to stock up. I assume it's a Photon?

>>1632515
Can't wait to hear that spooky uke!

CR10 S5 test print thing

seems fine aside from a few issues that should be corrected with silcer tweaks, this is the one that had the bed detach during shipping.

>>1632572
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07P6W5L8P/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=elegoo%2Bgrey&qid=1560963570&s=gateway&sprefix=elgoo%2Bgr&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1

This stuff is amazing on the photon

>>1632367
>>1632545
Much love for freedom units, but 3d printing is a metric game. The rest of the community speaks metric, they teach metric in American schools, you should really just be using metric for 3d printer work.

>>1632765
>you should really just be using metric for 3d printer work.
The best way to approach printing is unitless, e.g., 2 walls with a 20% infill. No need for unit that way.

Point of bragging: I've talked to a US firm about some huge (and I do mean huge) volume printing, asked them if they had 0.4, 0.6, and 0.8mm nozzle sizes, which they did. So I did some testing om small components with a 0.8mm nozzle, got back to them, and they explained that they couldn't print certain parts with their 0.8'' nozzle. Whoops.

>>1632790
>The best way to approach printing is unitless, e.g., 2 walls with a 20% infill. No need for unit that way.
Ehhh, no. You will always need units. Or how do you tell your printer your wall will be 30 potatoes long? Might work if your heatbed x or y is 35 potatoes long...
You mean your walls are parametric based on your nozzle diameter, like 2*d or 3*d . And your nozzle diameter has a unit.
And percentages are dimensionless anyway.

>>1632361
>There is an addon for cura called barbarian units
ahahaha Americans BTFO
>>1632512
Will it resonate as good as wood?

Im making an uv post-curing chamber for resin parts. Im planning to use a glass bottle, wrap uv leds around and cover it with reflective paper.
Should i sandblast the bottle to diffuse the light or leave it clear?

>>1632900
Just stick it under a UV lamp?

>>1632900
Just buy a nail light?
Literally any UV lamp will do

>>1632811
I'm not sure. I'll find out after I'm done printing all 4 parts and the tuning pegs. I had a print fail 75% the way through so I have to reprint the top of the body and the two neck pieces. When I'm done 3D printing and assembling, I'll record myself playing.

>>1632593
Thanks, anon. I had the top of the body fail and it was 75-80% done and the motor started making weird noises so I let my printer rest for a while. It seems to be printing fine now. After I print the neck pieces, I'll print the top part of the body one more time.

I trying to do 4 ships that will circle around a planet globe
so i divided the globe in 2 parts and made a ring inside of it that conects to the ships and a base that has a whole inside of it that allows the ships to pass throught it

whats the best way to connect both sides of the globe after i print it?
a screw would be enough?

>>1633029
The answer is always dove tails

Hi, I'm not a regular here but I've been involved in a project with 3D printing recently and something struck my attention regarding resin printers.
A standard DLP resin printer will have lenses to focus the light beam onto the build head of the printer, much like a DLP video projector has lenses to focus the light beam onto the screen. An LCD video projector also has lenses like this, but it appears as if LCD resin printers don't require any lenses at all and simply have an LCD screen (one example used an intact iPad) as close to the bottom of the resin bin as possible. How can this work if the viewing angle of the LCDs is greater than a few degrees? How is it that you can recreate details smaller than the distance from the screen to the build head?
If this isn't the best place to ask I'm guessing /sci/ could work.

>>1633033
i dont think i can do dove tails on this
not even sure i will be able to print this

>>1633029
Why not make the globe solidly fixed together, with the spinning ring on the inside holding the ships to the outside via magnets?

>>1633042
Isn't it just 2 halves of a sphere that lock onto a ball bearing type print?

>>1633046
>>1633047

i did something like this
2 globe parts that can be screwed toggether a base that screws to one of the parts of the ball and a ring with the ships
but i never actualy 3d printed anything before so its probably not going to work

>>1633052
Think you'd need to use a bolt(that can be 3d printed) through the whole thing if you don't have the bearing be part of the middle piece

So do I need to loosen the top left part of my bed?

It's a CR10 S5, currently making a window that's pure infill in the middle.

Sure hope it holds up.

>>1632749
Good to hear; I got an 0.5L bottle to try that out a while back actually, haven't quite made it through the replacement green I bought yet. Does that use any different settings than the default? I know there's a sheet floating around with compatible resins and settings but I prefer individual recommendations.

>>1632912
>>1632930
Thank you for answering the fucking question....

>>1633112
Well what you want to do is kind of stupid and pointless

>>1632900
It shouldn't matter to leave the bottle clear, unless you have particularly sharp concavities.

>>1633118
I'd agree that a bottle is a better method, as you'd want to surround the part with UV instead of illuminating from a single direction.

>>1633137
You can just stick it on a rotating surface?

>>1633137
>I'd agree that a bottle is a better method, as you'd want to surround the part with UV instead of illuminating from a single direction.
It is fucking useless, glass just adds an absorption layer.
Just get some uv leds and surround your model with them for turbo-curing.

>>1632900
I believe regular glass is an effective UV filter. So I would use a whole different approach.

>>1633155
Oh well, >>1633148 beat me to it by quite a bit.

>>1633037
I think the main point, for most people, to use a sla printer is high resolution. So you will need a lot of pixels for you display (x/y) and an accurate z axis.
>>1633037
>How can this work if the viewing angle of the LCDs is greater than a few degrees?
The resin might look more or less transparent, but there is a steep falloff in "curing power" the further the light has to travel into the resin. I guess one main tweaking point is the power (and homogenity) of your uv source and the speed of the z axis.

however, might be interesting:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-resin-printer-build.11586/
https://www.3ders.org/articles/20160727-lcd-led-based-utopiaprinter-widens-the-door-to-low-cost-diy-sla-3d-printing.html

and DLP:
https://hackaday.io/project/16701-adam-dlp-3d-printer

>>1633148
>glass just adds an absorption layer
Maybe for UVA, but those standard "UV" LEDs just put out 405nm harsh blue light. And that's an awful graph thanks to not having a logarithmic X axis. And how the hell does it have zero transmission at all gamma-ray wavelengths?

>>1633165
Thanks for the links. I see that he's using a fresnel lens, which is interesting but makes a lot of sense. An approximate point source of light combined with a lens like that before the LCD should work quite well. I've drawn some diagrams here to further explain myself:

1: Just an LED. With only a single COB LED, the image projected onto the tank will be both magnified and blurred slightly. The blur can be minimised by maximising the LED-LCD distance while minimising the LCD-head distance, resulting in a blur size equal to the ratio of these distances multiplied by the width of the COB, give or take. The magnification could be a good or bad thing, depending on whether its easier to get an LCD smaller than you want your print size to be.

>>1633194
2: LED with a diffusor. This is identical to a panel of lots of smaller LEDs situated where the diffusor is. The resulting image is hugely blurry, thanks to light passing through the unmasked spots in the LCD from all directions. This setup is unusable as-is, but it might be usable with a lens of some kind to focus the image on the LCD through an aperture and onto the build head. But even doing this you'd lose a lot of light intensity via the diffusor reflecting it to unwanted places.

>>1633195
Oh and by moving the LCD of diagram 2 close to the build head relative to the diffusor you approximate the relative point source of diagram 1, except the COB area in the equation is replaced with the larger diffusor area, making it significantly worse still.

3: LED with lens. This is more efficient in terms of wasted light than the first diagram. By moving the LCD panel as close as possible to the build head you create the same approximate point source as 1, except with the effective distance from the COB to the LCD being multiplied immensely (probably the magnification factor of the lens), therefore further minimising blur. I'm not sure what distance the lens should be relative to the LCD, it may not matter. This is likely enough to produce quite good resolution prints.
In diagram 1, the relative distances will be perhaps 5mm and 100mm respectively, with the COB being 20mm across or so, resulting in a blurry outline of 1mm around any shape projected from the LCD onto the build head. I bet this can be reduced by a factor of at least 100 with the right lens.

>>1633194
>>1633195
>>1633199
as you need parallel light you could need:
a big collimator lens:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimator
or a parabolic mirror,
or a aspheric lense,
or a tir lens array:
https://www.ledil.com/support/guide-to-tir-lenses/
http://www.koppglass.com/blog/optimize-uv-leds-used-in-uv-curing/
or a microlens array:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microlens
and some time to calculate that shit,
or light-design software,
or you can calculate a freeform lens and need something manufacture/order it,
and some equipment to measure all that shit.
hmm

I think the easiest approach is to minimize the distance between the lcd and resin
but you still need a homogeneous luminous distribution

>>1633199
4: lmao just stick your ipad in it. Like it looks like the LumiFold TB https://youtu.be/0qBN0vXXcks has, it's equivalent to diagram 2 but instead of maximising the ratio of Z(LCD - diffusor) / Z(head - LCD), they've minimised it, resulting in a hugely wide blur angle right off the bat. Since the clever little briefcase botnet actually works, I can only assume it has a fresnel lens crammed in there to focus the image onto the build head like one of those cardboard cellphone projectors. But I think those things rely on distance in order to collimate the light.

near UV OLED display for diy SLA printing, when?

>>1633202
So those multi-LED ones use lenses to collimate the light in order to get the light moving in parallel lines right off the chips? That's pretty efficient-looking, and seems to be what the big players seem to be using, though possibly a bit bulky. I assume any diffusors they use with those also have a very narrow diffusion angle.
As far as my own works go, I think combining a single narrow-angle LED/COB with a fresnel lens to get both optical efficiency and a relatively small setup may be worth considering. At least for the UV-curing LCD screen-printing process, since high output isn't terribly necessary in that case.

I still don't get how the lumifold works, unless it has an aperture in there somehow with very-short focal length fresnel lenses.

>>1633208
Doesn't need to be near-UV, the blue light from a standard LCD works with some resins at least.

>>1633210
>narrow-angle + lens
Wait that wouldn't work.

>>1633194
>>1633195
>>1633199
>>1633202
>>1633204
Very interesting reading. Thanks Anon.

>>1632601
>s5
wew. only went for the s4 myself. did anymodifications or planning to?

also recommending creawsome mod for cura

oh my

>>1633281

>>1633281
>>1633284
Borg cube?

>>1633281
>>1633284
borgcube?

>>1633291
>>1633293
yep, TNG version
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306358
need to to check remixes/alternatives
or just fix this one into six sides for my new lamp

god bored of my jeans getting oily from touching the chain so i designed this chainguard to protect my jeans
figuring out at what distance from the centre the mounting holes are on this stronglight front sprocket turned out to be surprisingly difficult, couldn't find any mechanical drawings online, thank god it was a multiple of millimeter
The size was constrained by my print bed at 210mm so there is a "cut" on the guard but it is where the pedal is so it doesn't matter

>>1633261
I needed the full sized bed for a few things I want to make. it seems to print well enough I just need to figure out some minor things

So I think im about done using octoprint, it doesn't fail all the time but man it really hurts when there is only 2 hours left of a 20 hour print and then octoprint crashes. is there any way to upload to the sd card faster with octoprint? or do I just manually copy to sd card and then just use octoprint from there? if octoprint crashes and its printing from the sd, it will still continue printing right?

>>1633118
Is it now?
Curing dry prints reduces strength due to oxygen breaking up bonds during curing. Curing in water reduces degradation significantly. Also enjoy submerging your UV lamp in water.
Also good luck curing a large print that doesnt fit under a nail light.

Why are there more and more retards who have no fucking clue about the topic who keep posting dumb shit?

>>1633137
>sharp concavities.
On the bottle or on the part.
My concern was that direct light might cure poky bits of the print more.

>>1633148
Ill just leave the part in for 5 times longer or so. Strong prints > short curing time

Just finished the upgrade to MK3S, just have to finish cal and upgrade drivers/firmware.

>>1633439
>On the bottle or on the part.
On the part. All the LEDs make basically a bunch of point-sources of light, so if you have something like a long narrow hole to receive a bolt or shaft in your part it isn't guaranteed that light will get in there. Not as if to say this wouldn't be easy to avoid by positioning the part and/or LEDs manually.

For all you guys using a photon, how do you deal with the fumes and the like? What sort of venting systems do you use to deal with resin? Am I fucked living in an apartment?

Is there any place that you can pirate paysite files from?

I've been doing a bunch of research into 3D printers so I can print random parts that I could use for various projects: such as tripod quick release plates, brackets, etc. Is pic related a good place to start? I think I'm too impatient/dumb to do the Ender 3 and for the price and specs the cr10 mini seems to fit what I need exactly without being a cheap junk machine. I was going to start with PLA/PLA+ filaments and eventually get the full metal e3d v6 for the other higher melting point materials. The cr10 mini didn't seem to need as many upgrade components as the Ender 3 was recommended (springs, printed parts, etc.)

Any suggestions/comments for a complete 3D printing noob? My general budget is around $400-$500 dollars total.

>>1633587
>safety glasses
save $6, you don't need them.
I would drop the 3 pack of mystery filament and get a trusted brand like Sunlu.
You don't really need the ptfe tubing, the stock tubing works fine unless you want to print flexibles, in which case get capricorn XS tubing.
get a sheet of PEI with 468MP tape backing and stick it to that glass plate, it provides better adhesion than just about any other material for PLA.

>>1633580
They dont bother me very much, but in the name of safety I open a window and blow a fan on the printer towards said open window

>>1633478
Woo, that's a crowded buildplate.

>>1633344
>figuring out at what distance from the centre the mounting holes are turned out to be surprisingly difficult
This is why I use slots instead of plain holes for things like this sometimes. 3 is enough to self-align, 5 is almost definitely centered, and there's not really a reduction in strength unless you have really thin walls or long slots.

>>1633580
>how do you deal with the fumes and the like?
Stick it by a window or under the kitchen fume hood, works fine for me so far. Smell is still noticeable when you're w/i 1-2 meters of it but not at all in a different room. Roommate doesn't complain about the smell either, and it's not a terribly large flat.

>>1633545
Cal completed, even with a couple of missing screws on the extruder backplate the first layer came out nice and flat.

As for the new slicer: I'm actually pretty happy, this is a lot faster than Slic3r PE and Slic3r stock.

Let's see how badly I fucked up the upgrade!

>>1633678
OK I'm impressed, it has a fucking spooler. Like for queuing prints.

>>1633678
>faster
I never understood this, even on my old laptop Slic3r took at most 5-6 seconds to slice something. Is it really that much of a problem for other people?

>>1633685
It slices instantly now. They recoded the perl shit in C++.

>>1633545
>>1633678
>>1633679
All done. Way better than it used to print prior to the upgrade, think I rushed the PINDA adjustments, Z-adjustments, and belt tensioning back when I initially added the cable chains.

0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm layer height (stock Prusa Slicer profile), Amazon Basics black PETG.

A few strings here and there, but most black PETG seems to be unusually sticky. I've tried Hatchbox and I think another brand, all had relatively the same result. Lower layer has a few blobs, as well, since the hotend gets covered with that shit, even with a silicone sock.

>>1633580
I have a fume hood at work that i use. Im pretty lucky i guess.

>>1633581
What is the file you require? I might be able to help you.

>>1633284
>>1633294

Prepare for trouble, and make it double with that model... Are those tiny thin pipes even big enough for a single wall extrusion?

>>1633685

Not for regular models but on stuff with very dense geometry the regular slic3r did struggle a bit.

>>1633624
With resin prints, the only thing that affects speed is z height, so it's more efficient to just fill the bed and print everything at once.

>>1632079
>>1632082
It is a mess. I had no fucking idea about concrete.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918926
But I'm fixing it right now, results tomorrow...

>>1633768
yeah uh unless you're going for strength you can mix in a lot more water and fine concrete so the surface finish is nicer
rough concrete and low water are for high strength

>>1633775
fine concrete soon:

>>1633780
dude just buy some plaster or something

>>1633780
Just use plain cement without aggregate. Or with sand as aggregate. Look into mould releases for concrete also. Vibrate the mould before after the initial pour in order to work the air out. The Homemade Modern YT channel has a few things on concrete, and while their styling is not usually my cup of tea, their videos can probably provide a fair bit of insight to your experiments.

>>1633710
I'm looking at Printable Scenery's site, mainly their Hellspike as I wanted to use it for some scenery. Ideally I would be able to download the whole set as some of those trees and the elf buildings look cool.

just pulled the igger on a duet 2 wifi clone with 7" screen from china, wish me luck lads.

>>1633820
price, controller and drivers?

>>1633871
$162 for the cloned board and display and necessary hookup parts, Duet 2 Wifi 1.04 clone, TMC2660

>>1633344
finally got around to installing it
works fine, nothong fancy, pretty functional, might have actually been better to not have those curves so there's less walls because they take the most material

>>1633795
If they provide a 3d preview it can be downloaded with a couple of tricks. Looks like you are out of luck.

>>1633795
you're better of learning modeling
welcome to /diy/ btw

>>1633872
At that price, why not just pony up for the real thing? It's not like it's a whole lot more.

>>1633940
it's $162 for the clone vs $255 for the genuine, and I doubt there's $93 worth of improvements in the genuine.

>>1633947
even for $162, what are the benefits?
that's more than my whole printer has cost

>>1633953
It's a 32-bit control board, so it can handle curves at higher speeds than an 8-bit board.
It has built-in wifi, so to control the printer, send gcode, etc, I can do it all from my computer without hooking up any cables or ferrying an SD card over.
Good stepper drivers soldered directly to the board.
dual extruder support, with the option of more via an expansion board if I want to get a Chimera later on down the line.
7" touchscreen display with a decent UI.

>>1633947
I felt the cost was justified when I started using the duet forums. The community and support is awesome.

>>1633953
For a typical cartesian, the only real benefit is the wireless aspect and the web interface. The hardware is better utilized in a delta set up, as that's what a large portion of the duet owners use.

I will say, in both cases you will notice a significant decrease in noise. The only noise I hear from mine is the hot end fan and the belts rubbing on the rim of the idlers. If I replaced the stock 40mm fan with the noctua i have in reserve, it would be virtually silent, even while printing at 100mm/s

I have Alfawise u30 and recently hotend has been damaged. So I have made new one from CuSN8, because I didn't have anything else for it. They look really cool, but problem is when it is printing PLA(200°C) it throws out the mistake "abnormal heat hotend detected" or someting like that. Is it because of CuSN8 or something else can be fucked up? I dont wanna buy another chinese crap, what should I use, duralumin?

>>1634027
PID tune? Does the thermistor show the correct temperature?

>>1634035
Before error, it was showing 180 -, but when I have checked extruder after, there was 215°C. Until now it was printing excelent, but after changing hotends it started.

>>1633929
I've wanted an excuse to git gud with Zbrush for a while now. Time to hit up /3/ to see what I am in for.

>>1633947

I got a Duet2 Wifi for 175$ with shipping from E3D's store on black friday last year. This is without a display, but honestly i don't see a big need for it when the web interface is right there. I looked at those chinese ones but i'm suspicious of the quality, and considering the potential customs charges a 162$ purchace can bring with it, the risk wasn't worth it. The VAT alone would add another 33$ if customs catches wind of the package...

>>1633953

Main points are quiet and beefy stepper drivers, web interface for controlling everything ,and the ability to add many extruders and with configurable routines for toolchangers, bed probes, IDEX etc. It's overkill for something like a cheap Ender3, but if you're making something crazy like a combined multimaterial/CNC printer with laser engraver or whatever, Duet2's the best choice.

>>1634061
US doesn't do customs fees for consumer electronics from china.

>>1634085
US also doesn't do VAT.
I think it's safe to say he isn't American.

>>1634085
>>1634089

So you're telling me that if you're a burger and order expensive electronics from china you don't have your government hold your package for ransom? ʕ ͡° ʖ̯ ͡°ʔ

>>1634094
correct, we aren't cucks

>>1630071
Why would you need such a thing?

>>1633909
Concentric fill gives a nice finish.
Looks like a milled part.
Now that it's printed, it would be stupid to print it again to "save material".
Except if you need to change other things of course...

need new thread.

>>1633722
Wrong, laser SLA printers are affected by how much there is on the bed as well

>>1634211
It's straight-up stated in the post.
>one of the colours is a different material than the other one

>>1629997
I need some advice. I'm the anon who is printing a ukulele and when the nozzle reaches 85mm (3 5/8inches) the motor starts to grunt and move the nozzle in random directions, causing my print to fail.

I had another issue with my printer previously, where I had to re-solder the heated bed and that was fixed, but now this shit is happening. What could be reason my printer is doing this? Could it be bad file or could it be the printer it self? I printed two pieces that failed causing me to waste 19 hours, these parts take a long time to print.

>>1634352
I'm going to print a object which is about the same height with almost no infil as a test. A thin tall rectangle or something and see if it will give up or not at the same height.

>>1634352
Jam your GCode into here and hit Play and Fast Forward a bunch to get it to max speed. My files show that they're off the grid area but always print fine - if there are any weird toolpaths or defects you'll probably see them here

https://ncviewer.com/

>>1634371
I'll try that.

>>1634371
I'm printing a object in vase mode and I'll see if it will reach the same height or fail. A simple vase.

>>1634371
The file I tried seems to not show any weird toolpaths or defects. I'm thinking it could be a printer issue

>>1634381
If you can, manually (with the controls, not by hand) adjust the printer to that height and see if it starts acting up

>>1634381
If I successfully print a vase in vasemode then I'll know it was just bad gcode. The gcode viewer is making me think it isn't the gcode though.

>>1634387
I tried that and it wasn't acting up. It's odd that it would do that. I doubt it could be gcode or stress related, but could a 3D printer stress out if you force it to print for 20+ hours at a time?

The printer I'm using is a Monoprice Maker Select V2

>>1634391
Overheating steppers? Overheating board? I'm not familiar with your printer so I have no idea if those are things that could happen to it but they'd be prime suspects if mine did that and it wasn't reproducible by me

>>1634394
If it ends up being a overheating board motor, is there a way to fix overheating, like a cooling solution?

>>1634394
I checked and its printing above that height. Odd. I guess I'll print something else besides a ukulele for now

>>1634403
a fan and heatsinks

>>1634352

Is the extruder motor skipping steps when that happens or does it just go crazy in XY?

>>1633768
the pot is reaching corium aesthetics

Any idea why one of my materials isn't showing up after slicing? Everything seems to be in order, but the pink just refuses to slice for some strange reason. I can't think of what could be doing it, and I'm sure it's not that it's non-manifold since I removed the mouth and left only the pink spheres (completely enclosed solids) and it still doesn't slice them.

>>1633768
:/

>>1634458
It goes crazy in x and y. For some reason I was able to print a vase that was taller and it printed just fine. Maybe my printer is stressing out while I print for 15+ hours at a time.

>>1634468
Maybe because you have 5 colors and not 4?
Green tentacle
Crème body
White face
Black eyes
Pink mouth

>>1634484

A video of it going crazy might help, but other than a slicing error i can't think of many reasons why it would do that. A bit of a stretch, but it could be a pulley that's slipping - that causes circles to turn into ovals and all sorts of other erratic patterns.

>>1634472
Looks pretty fuckin bad m8

Rate my engineering idea.

This would work as a temperature-controlled enclosure, right? You could set the convection (hot air) feature to something like 60C and the oven would heat up to that point and constantly ventilate the printer.

>>1634472
Use a little bit more water in your mixture and use a vibrator to get auniform surface alternatives to vibrator:
>use a rod to poke constantly the concrete
>hit the casting enclosure to produce vibrations

>>1632320
>you just felt like there was a business to take ?
There were no springers on store shelves that interested me at the time that I got back into the hobby. So I got back into homemades rather than bothering with modification.

>>1634621

It's a good way to bake a printer... The temperature control on kitchen ovens is very imprecise, it overhoots by a lot initially before it settles down to something near what you set it to. If you just run it at 60C it will top out at about 170C initially and then slowly go back down to 60.

New Thread >>1634646

>>1634528
Yes, that is correct, I have 5 colors. I also have an MMU2. The colours on the left side are after I have assigned all 5 extruders and tried to color-match; right side is just a new instance of Slic3r where I couldn't be bothered to color-match the output.

>>1634621
>knows how to use the line feature to point from text to parts
>doesn't know how to actually use it to draw a halfway decent sketch
You have infuriated me. I guess that's what you wanted to do in the first place. Congratulations I guess.

>>1634290
Just paint it

>>1634621
Pretty sure you're going to fry the electronics and stuff

There's also already printers with that feature