/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Previous >>2726457

>>2743274
How do I start?

>>2743280
That depends -- what do you want to make?

>a wood shop built of wood
the dream

is there anything you can't make with a tablesaw, bandsaw and lathe

>>2743350
Round eccentric holes

what's the opposite of fine woodworking
is there a name for rugged purely functional woodworking

>>2743358
cut a 'decorative' slit for bandsaw to enter

>>2743370
Woodworker or
draftsman

>>2743408
"craftsman"

>>2743370
Carpenter? Construction worker?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2KBdpE4m8kI

>>2743417
It’s missing hand tool guy that starts by sharpening chisels for the knife wall and planes for the shooting board

>>2743432
God I hate hand tool people so much.

How do I get into making fine furniture professionally? I'm planning on moving up to Maine within the next 6 months if that helps

>>2743439
Do you want to work for yourself or do you want to work for a shop?

>>2743440
Ideally, I want to work for a shop for 5-10 years to learn and then work for myself

Finished the sewing table I was making.

>>2743274
Weald and Downland? I meant to go there this past spring but got there too late in the day and couldn't get in :(. Extreme levels of soul in this picture.

>>2743370
Country carpenter?

>>2743441
You could apprentice, but you'll be making shit money. Depending on your circumstances, that might still be preferable financially over starting woodworking as a hobby, which is notoriously expensive.

Anecdotally, most furniture makers start as hobbyists and then build out their shops and skillsets. That's really only something you can do with 1) free time, and 2) a relatively lucrative day job. I've been a therapist (private practice) for many years, so I'm fortunate to have both of those things, and if I've done the math right, I should be able to retire from therapy within ~5-7 years and pursue furniture making as a full-time retirement gig.

tl;dr: you do you, find an apprenticeship in Maine if you'd like, or start working out of a two-car garage until you get your sea legs. If woodworking and furniture making is your passion, you'll enjoy it whether or not you make money from it.

>>2743442
That finish and grain are superb. Is it the same species throughout? The sheen of the front panels looks much different from that of the legs or top.

I'm a little disappointed about the underutilized drawer space. The underside must look pretty naked.

>>2743442
It’s cool, I like how you made it classic but kept simples. Not a fan of the very heavy stain and I think the big visible joints are not really contemporary with the classical finish but other than that it’s cool

>>2743449
Get ready to be disappointed. The top and aprons are both pine and the legs are douglas fir. They look different due to lighting mostly. The camera also seems to make the lighter parts even lighter looking. And to disappoint you further, those are fake drawers. Sorry.

>>2743450
Yeah, I should have made them blind dovetails or something, but my brain was too small to figure out how to do so at 45 degrees instead of 90. This was a project that was originally going to be a lot less elaborate but took a life of it's own over time.

>>2743453
>Get ready to be disappointed. The top and aprons are both pine and the legs are douglas fir. They look different due to lighting mostly. The camera also seems to make the lighter parts even lighter looking. And to disappoint you further, those are fake drawers. Sorry.
You're killing me, Smalls. Still, an excellent example of what you can do with good craftsmanship and attention to detail, even with box store woods.

Is this for your partner?

>>2743454
Yeah, my wife. I can only sew in a very basic way personally. Just enough to fix things and make them look bad.

>>2743457
Yeah, that's me also. I tried repairing a pair of jeans once. Didn't work. The wife sews quite a bit, I've been wanting to make her either a sewing table or an extension table that will fit around the outfeed end of here machine. Kind of a one-trick pony, though, since you can't feasibly fit them to other machines and have the height match up.

>>2743274
Is there a good resource to identify wood for the beginner? Google capture isn’t very helpful.

>>2743487

>>2743484
You could make it deep and just shim the pit up to adapt to different machines. For this one, the sewing machine sits in the pit on the right and the serger sits on the left side.

>>2743512
Your wife has her sewing machine and serger out at the same time?

>>2743293
>>2743293
Small stuff. Toys. Figurines. Maybe in a few years try a box, a chair or maybe a table. But mostly just waste time relaxing instead of getting angry arguing with retards online.

>>2743516
Now she does. The serger used to be on a separate table (well, a office desk in this case). The main reason she wanted me to make this was so she could get rid of that desk which takes up too much space in the room.

>>2743552
If you can put together shit like that, why not go all out and make it great? Why use box store lumber?

>>2743350
Molding profiles like ogees and radius edges, inlays, mortisses, some joints, carving, kumiko, probably a dozen others

>>2743370
framing, decks, fences, construction, rough carpentry

>>2743566
I did not know I could put together shit like this until I put this together. Literally my first project that wasn't workbench related or like a stools.

>>2743442
why did you make the working end in a difficult to reach place

i finally got the "riving knife/blade guard" for my craftsman cast iron table saw :) i no longer have to be worried about getting hit in the dick by my cutting piece and losing some fingers

>>2743439
Take a program, lots offered by colleges. You don't have enough time to be self-taught. Failing that, find a local cabinet shop and pay them to train you.

>>2743439
Go to the fire woodworking school in Rockport when you arrive.

glued up my first workbench yesterday using a bunch of butt joints and screws but I didn't pay attention to the forecast and temps got below freezing overnight while it was curing. Would this affect the strength of the cure? The joints had ~8 hours before temps got to freezing, so the glue should have at least been dry by then. I used titebond 3.

>>2743698
I need to make a fence for mine. I've only used my crosscut sled and just clamped straight edges for the other cuts. I can't be bothered to add a bunch of things to it. Shuffling blades like dado stacks and finding whichever special wrenches I need is demotivational.

europoor here.
I've moved into a 45m2 cuckbox with a nice 300m2 garden. I want to maximize my space by building a loft bed since I do have 4m+ ceilings. any tips, input, experience shared or ressources are appreciated

>>2744027
>I've moved into a 45m2 cuckbox with a nice 300m2 garden. I want to maximize my space by building a loft bed since I do have 4m+ ceilings. any tips, input, experience shared or ressources are appreciated
I have no idea what these measurements mean. Is it big or small? Can you make a gesture with your hands?

This looks pretty simple to DIY. Just some untreated 4x4’s. Only concern is the paint. I’m terrible at getting an even finish. Would spray paint work?

>>2744116

>>2744119
That looks like modern jewish art

>>2743909
Same model of saw? Make sure the clean the fence up if you get an old one off ebay. Take the whole thing apart and lube everything up. The rails too. Works so much better when it's not all crusty

>>2744127
It’s a cheap way to fill a large wall in my house where idk what else to do with

>>2744116
I’d go with a liquid stain, it’s hard to screw up. That is oak btw. 2x4s are very prone to cupping so it may be hard to build and keep it all well aligned without gaps. And you need a really good saw or band sander because otherwise the pine end grain gets hairy when painted/stained

>>2744137

Lot of work.

It would be cheaper, easier and better to just hang a picture of a crying clown on the wall.

Any idea what this green stuff ist?

Just mold. Made it like 1year ago and looked like that after couple month, but didnt change since then. Think my gf stored it in a cold rooms.

Its pine Multiplex with a beeswax finish.

Any idea how to rescue the piece?

>>2743751
It will probably be fine. You might need to disassemble later and reglue. I had to do this once for my workbench and it glued up under perfect condition. No biggie.

are these cracks and defects large enough that I should consider filling them before staining/finishing or should I not worry about it? If so what should I use for it?

>>2744940
I would leave it personally. But if you are going to fill it, test the filler with your stain and finish to make sure it doesn't contrast with the rest of the wood. Filler doesn't necessarily look the same with stain and finish

question for you guys. If i had to make a 1 inch thick table leaf that was 2 feet wide and 4 feet long, would 1 inch MDF be good enough with out sagging?

I was considering doing a torsion box with 1/4 inch skins, but wasn't sure if i was wasting my time.

btw, this leaf would only be supported at the very edges.

>>2744256
I had the same problem once with a storage box I made. Removed the wax, killed the mold and treated it with quaternary ammonium cleaner then just finished it again. Hasn’t seen any new mold for over 2 years. Or maybe dry and seal the whole thing with clear poly if it’s going to be kept in the cold again (you’ll still have green but it won’t get worse)

>>2745003
I think it will still sag. A stiffer material like ply would do fine I think, and is cheaper than the torsion box

>>2744996
I decided to use filler, even on the hairline cracks. I'm using an espresso stain and oil poly so it should blend pretty well I think.

>>2743370
"Rustic", "utilitarian"

>>2743370
Why?

>>2744940
Sometimes I fill with dust from the same material. The issue there is choosing an adhesive to form it into a paste. The issue with standard wood glue being it doesn't take stain.

There are some quality putties and not obnoxious colored epoxies.

>>2744128
Idk which you have. Mine isn't really large but it's around 200 lbs of compact belt drive. I've made a lot of projects with the sled.

>>2743274
How do I get into woodworking as a job when I'm a former schizo who's just out of rehab and has a bad criminal record? I have a garage and my partner is willing to help me get on my feet but I'm 32, is it too late? I need an income of some sort

>>2745249
Cutting boards, especially custom ones sell better than most beginner projects.

Wooden sex toys are popular on Etsy, you could sell them by the buttload.

> use plywood, think its crap and that I should use MDF next time
> use MDF, think it’s crap and that I should use ply instead

Is there any better sheet stuff that is affordable? Is HDF worth the extra cost, or the B/BB quality Baltic birch ply? I could try of course but the closest store that sells either of those is an hour away

>>2745356
>use A which has certain characteristics and think it's crap
>use B which has very different characteristics and think it's crap

Have you tried thinking about what the characteristics of a product would need to be for you to not consider it crap?

>>2745356
Same as >>2745360
Why is it crap? What use case made it crap? Don't think everything has to be solid oak or mahogany and that it would fix everything. Design for your material. Otherwise mill everything out of solid steel, that'd be just about as inefficient.

>>2745255
>by the buttload

Getting frustrated looking up resources for what tools I need to get started. So many lists seem like overkill. Consuuuuuuume buy things using my affiliate links! All these people making videos catered to beginners seem so disingenuous

>>2745516
A book is worth about 350 hours of youtube videos. Read "Anarchist's Toolchest", should be available as a free PDF.

>>2745356
I'm sorry friend, but sheet goods are crap by design.

>>2745516
Start building. You'll find out what you need as you go.

>>2745516
Woodworking is an expensive hobby, friend. If you tell us what you want to build, we'll be able to help you plot the way forward.

is it possible to build a hidden lock inside a cabinet
a metal pin that's moved with a magnet from outside or something like a solenoid

>>2745525
still better than s*ftwood

>>2745544
of course

>>2745545
All my shop stuff is made of doug fir and it's still better than sheet goods.

How do I clean wooden floors, I've always wanted luxurious dark wooden flooring, but now I'm thinking maybe it's not a good idea. You could never bleach mop it or even use other products you'd mop a kitchen with

>>2743274
How hard is it to turn the treads?

>>2744940
I would fill and sand, you can buy stainable filler, check first. Your decision to fill and stain is determined mostly by intended use, in most cases where this is exposed I would fill.

>>2745544
It's very common in old blanket chests to have a false bottom in the interior drawer.

>>2745667
If these are new floors with the finish still intact just buy a wood flooring cleaner, damp mop. If this is an older floor with bare patches first sweep clean, very light mopping, but you should refinish the floor so it can be damp mopped.

>>2745742
Thanks, it's an old floor, no idea how good the finish is and don't want to risk it. I'll get the wood floor cleaner and try this.

But 'm definitely not re-varnishing it, this is just a rental, hopefully it's sealed somewhat, the colour is pretty matt.

I'm not a DIYer so haven't got a clue really.

You'll refinish it and like it if you want some of that deposit back.

I have a knife with what I've been told is an unfinished rosewood handle
I have been using it for a few months and it looks like it did when I bought it but I've finally gotten around to buying some mineral oil and I'm wondering what I should do
Should I try to sand it and then apply the mineral oil or just apply it now?

>>2746110
I sanded the handle and it's nicer now
Anyway I put oil on and 10 minutes later it doesn't look wet anymore
Not sure if the wood is crying out for more oil or if I should just leave it alone

>>2745360
>>2745462
Okay for me for plywood the top layer always strips off at least some place after sawing. Even if it’s a very clean cut, I put masking tape for painting and when I remove the tape it takes some part of the top layer off. When I use the trim router I get a clean edge over 90% of the length but at some unpredictable spots it suddenly gets a burn mark. For MDF no matter what I do, whatever screw length and predrilling, there’s always one of two screws that will seize the hole right the first time. It is way easier to paint but also a lot weaker, drop a hammer on it and it gets a dent so big I need to replace the sheet

>>2746352
> Even if it’s a very clean cut, I put masking tape for painting and when I remove the tape it takes some part of the top layer off.
What saw and blade are you using for the plywood?

>>2746354
Cheap battery dewalt tracksaw with 48T fine blade iirc. But it’s usually not when sawing, it rips later when sanding or removing the tape (I also put tape on the cut line for cleaner edges to varying degree of success). Sawing MDF goes perfect amost every time and I get clean edges, the fine dust sucks tho and it sometimes breaks out when drilling even with sacrificial block underneath

>>2746160
Mineral oil won't dry so no matter how you apply it it's going to soak into the wood as much as it can eventually; however you'll find that temperature changes will make the wood move and, if fully saturated with oil, some oil gets pushed back out, at least of the end grain. With that being said, there's not really a wrong way to apply mineral oil and you can always apply a layer of beeswax or beeswax/oil mix over top of the oil for a bit more protection. If your goal is to keep as much water out as possible then soak it in mineral oil until it won't take anymore, wipe off the excess, then heat up around 1:4 beeswax:oil in a double boiler, wipe it on, and wipe the excess off.

I'm trying to strip a piece of cedar that has been treated with oil down to bare wood. As fast as I can tell, mineral spirits and paint thinner do nothing to strip the oil. Sanding, either with a ROS or by hand is impossible, since the sandpaper immediately becomes clogged. What do I do?

>>2743274
How hard would it be to make one of these for a keychain collection? It doesn't even need the notches, I just need a case with poles to hang them on for display.

How realistic is it for me to build a computer desk (no idea what I'm doing)?

>>2746442
If you have any ability to use hand tools you can make a desk. Your first try might not be beautiful but it should be functional.

>>2746435
So, a pegboard?

>>2746419
You will need to use a paint stripper, get the water or citrus stripper, should be fast and easy. Rinse with water when done, let dry, light sand, refinish.

>>2746442
Depends entirely on what kind of desk you want to build on a scale of "shitty" to "pretty decent."

If you share a picture of the style you'd like to build, we'll be able to help you out.

>>2746435
Not hard even for a new DIY'er. You will need 1/4 oak plywood, the boarder pieces can be screwed or nailed. Get some oak dowel and drill partial holes to hold them....It would be cheaper to use popular ply and pine trim pieces.

>>2745255
The thought of an oiled maple dildo made by my hands in a hairy, dreadlocked alt girl is hot

>>2746466
>>2745255
Offer a 20% discount on their next purchase in exchange for action shots.

>>2746442
Not too difficult even for a first project. Make in separate steps the legs, prepare a top in ply or use pine boards, cut and fasten skirts using GSK fasteners. Take two 2x3's and edge nail to create a leg, make 4. See pic, fasten the skirts (could be 2x4) using structural screws (GSK), cut and fasten top. You could top nail or screw to fasten the top, or pocked screws or "L" clips from the underside. use this for my workstands, but with decent wood it would look fine, rough build but super strong, cheap and easy.

helped a relative put up a new fence last weekend and used some of the old posts to put together a workbench. finished sanding it yesterday but I didn't know about how dangerous old cca treated wood apparently can be. I wore a mask and goggles since I thought it may be moldy, but is there anything I should be concerned about? Also, might be a stupid question, but would it be fine to use this bench for projects that I wanna use indoors like cutting boards, furniture, etc, or would the treated wood make that a bad idea.

>>2746483
There is no problem, carry on with your woodworking projects and enjoy your hand built bench. The chromium in CCA binds the arsenic. I doubt it is CCA anyway, if you are concerned, seal with paint of varnish.

>>2746386
Your plywood just sucks for your use. Regular big box hardware store plywood is usually meant for construction work, and not really suitable for fine finishing. If you get your hands on good ply you'll see the differences immediately.

>>2746538
This. And why are you sanding plywood, anyway? You're sanding away 1/30th inch veneer.

not sure if /wwg/ or /sqt/, but is it fine or dumb to install cabinetry over carpet? honestly, i just dont want to have to deal with the fuckery that is stretching the carpet if i dont have to, unless of course its THAT bad of an idea.

>>2746552
Yeah, don't do that if you can avoid. Cut it back and secure with double sided tape.

>>2746435
That one actually looks pretty easy, it's just a box with two side strips with notches cut into them to hold the dowels.

>>2746442
>>2746463
I'll note that you can also buy just the motorized frame for a sit-stand desk, and all you need to do is build a panel to be the top.

I just bought a $4,500, 4ft x 4ft Onefinity CNC router with zero CNC experience (but plenty of 3D printing, 3D sculpting/modeling/CAD, and laser cutting experience).

Did I fuck up? I want to cut relief art, custom-shaped picture frames, custom molding, along with easy money projects like cutting boards and signs

>>2746538
Thanks I’ll get some quality stuff next time then. Here’s a pic of pieces of top veneer that ripped away, the big hole came when I removed masking tape

>>2746541
The plywood primer says to lightly sand with 240

>>2746807
Forgot pic ofc

>>2746808
The veneer on most plywood is thin and likes to tear out. You must score it first for most saws. If you have nice sharp finishing blades, maybe it's good to go straight through. Test cut then adjust.

>>2746807
>The plywood primer says to lightly sand with 240
Whoever wrote that on the can should consider pursuing another line of work. You don't need to sand plywood. It's already quite smooth. You can take some 150 or 240 and, by hand, take the roughness off the edge of the cut line after ripping it, but you don't need to take an ROS to the face of the plywood. I really can't fathom why they would advise that.

>>2746808
Tell me more about the piece of the veneer that tore off. Why were you applying masking tape to the area of the plywood? Is that where you'd intended to rip?

>>2746689
> Did I fuck up?
Only if you can't afford it. You'll make your money back.

whats the difference between joining something with a fat dowel and using a few screws

>>2747095
A very light sanding will help with paint/finish adhesion.

>>2747247
lots of differences, for one, you can disassemble with screws. Just stop using dowels, not needed now that we have good glues and biscuits. Not worth the trouble to align. In some cases they used to be ok as tenons, but we now have biscuits and Domino systems.

the domino is a big dowel and biscuits like to slide around out of alignment defeating their entire purpose

>>2747259
couldn't a big dowel act like a mortise whereas with screws a large force is concentrated on a small metal part making it likely to rip through during bending stress

>>2747366
>act like a mortise
tenon*

>>2747366
That is true, a possible risk. When I join legs to skirts in a table I have used mortise and tenon, pocket screws and finally glue blocks. In that applications I was connecting a long leg to a small skirt so I had to compensate for the leverage force on the joint. As you gain experience you will know what's needed in a given situation. In another table with larger legs I used tenons and glue blocks only because the tenons were large enough.
I have used dowels many times but not anymore, easier and stronger to cut tenons and much stronger. Get the right tools, mortise chisel, gooseneck chisel, corner chisel, mortise gauge, makes the job easy. There are Record and Stanley planes for shaving the tenon to perfection. These tools are essential if you plan to invest in woodworking as a serious hobby, IMO.

>>2747261
I don't find that with biscuits at all, they are perfect for alignment provided you use batten boards, bar clamps, etc...

>>2747404
It could be my Chicago electric but I have issuse with in airplane terms the pitch and yaw of the pieces coming together.

>>2743280
With a pocket knife.

>>2746689
Sounds awesome! Show pics and make stuff.

>>2746689
The cnc will make things repeatable that you would be tooling by hand. I think most of us are in it for the art and the craft, but production is the income side. CNC has that and accuracy.

>>2747578
Mostly agree. I personally find artistic value in well designed structures that take advantage of what a cnc does well. Everybody and their brother can cut out pieces for layered wall art, but not everyone has the engineering chops to produce the parts for a fletcher-burwell expanding table. Those easily rank as pieces of art in my book.

The only reason I would like a cnc is for those complicated items that might only need a couple of identical pieces, but rely heavily on those pieces being exactly the same to function. If that isn't a requirement, then I enjoy handcrafting those super intricate parts.

Guys, I want to build a gigantic bookshelf in my bedroom. I have some design ideas but I think I might be a little stupid. Is there any place where I can see bookshelf designs specifically thought for DIY? I'm a beginner and just made a table for my computer.

>>2747606
If you want it bad enough, everything is DIY-able

>>2747606
Design it, think about the steps involved, identify the steps you don’t feel confident doing and either eliminate those or practice. It can always be made simpler to the point where all you need is a track saw and biscuit joiner

>>2747606
Built in or stand alone? Basic bookcases are easy, good beginner DIY project. Can you provide room measurements, diagram. I am sure you can look for images but basically all bookcases have sides, base, crown, shelves, back.

>>2747095
I lightly hand sanded with 240, very light passes, didn’t use electric sander, thought it was for adhesion bit rather than smoothing.

> Tell me more about the piece of the veneer that tore off. Why were you applying masking tape to the area of the plywood?
The cut line is visible, I put masking tape on the cut line before cutting because people online said it prevents the slightly jagged edges on the top side of the circular saw cut. Cut the pieces, then removed the tape on both sides and it took this entire piece of veneer with it. But also when I put masking tape for painting, especially near the edges it would take small pieces of veneer with it. Maybe it’s just bad quality, this ply is from the hardware store, red-brownish before painting and about $6 for 4’x2’x1/2”

>>2747394
Or if you're regularly cutting big tenons/grooves...

>>2747622
I'd say a router is a better investment than a biscuit joiner, you can do a lot more tasks with it like cutting dadoes, cleaning up edges with roundovers or chamfers, and trimming edge banding if you use plywood for the sides/shelves.

>>2747642
You actually want to avoid sanding on places you'll glue up, you want the glue to have something to soak into and hold.

>>2743280
Same question, How do I start making shit?
>>2743293
Im motivated to get into woodworking to eventually make all my furniture, but Im poor, I want to do whatever I can do with minimal tools that I can start selling to make money to buy tools.
Should I buy I saw, chisels or jump to a circular saw?
how do I get things straight without a planer?

>>2747855
We get this question a lot. It takes many years to acquire the tools and skill needed to make even simple furniture, and then something that can be sold. It's a great goal, we all have to start somewhere, I started with a Stanley mortise chisel, my first purchase at 10.
If you want a career in wood working, then get into a college/trade school program ASAP. Some people are fortunate to find a local shop that will take you on as an apprentice. Start looking for a program and I would not even bother buying a thing until then.

>>2743274
I'm itching for a project and the winter weather is stalling my outdoor projects. My living room walls are a little boring and I've decided to go with a vertical slat wall similar to picrel. It's an older home and there aren't many walls that are square limiting me to a completely vertical design.
The ceilings are 9ft tall and I lined up my laser level to find out that I'm 2" out of square from top to bottom to the adjacent wall. Obviously I'm not going to tear down a complete wall just to square it up, so I wanted to see what you guys think a potential solution is.
The only thing I can think of is to center the slats where the TV is and stay about 12-18" off the other wall so your eyes aren't drawn to how crooked things are.

i made this in freecad how dumb is it for a first project. its designed to hold a couple computers and other shit, max shelf load about 20kg, about 40kg total.
it uses 45x95mm,38x63 gay metric timber and 12mm plywood.

i priced up the wood and it came in about the same price as galvanised garage shelving with shitty mdf shelves but real reason for doing this is to get a feel for it, if it goes well then ive got a whole kitchen to be designed and built

>>2748079
If the adjacent walls are parallel, then you align to those rather than plumb battens. If they're out slightly with each other, then you taper the spacing to hide that there is inconsistency in the battens.
With any install there are mathematical solutions and there are ways to blend things to perspective.

>>2748079
That will work. You could gradually bring the slats into parallel by making small and equal adjustments from the wall to bring the slats into parallel. Same approach used in flooring etc.

>>2748122
Nice. Open frame case, supper solid, overbuilt probably. I would leave out the X braces. I know you added them to prevent racking, but the shelves will do that anyway. If wanted, you could remove them and just add two or three horizontal slats at the back but even that is over kill. Pic is of an open frame stereo stand, different approach.

>>2748079
Either match the wall angle and blend it across the wall

Or ignore the problem and just make all the slats vertical. No one except you is ever going to care or likely even notice at a casual glance that one of the walls in your ancient house aren't square at the top of a 9 foot wall

>>2748122
>>2748145
Use more plywood as the back brace instead of lumber

>>2748145
cheers
gonna build something like your pic for my living room unless i find something good second hand

it will be fixed to a solid brick wall on at least one side so racking shouldnt be an issue anyway.
i might be putting cabinets on that wall too which will give it all more stability
just gotta work out how to cut the 4x8ft sheet of plywood, could do half sheets ez but lose a lot of money.

>>2748227
i'd need another sheet to do that
not that it isnt tempting

>>2745516
- a mid size chisel, 1/4 or 1/2 inch is fine.
- a double sided japanese saw called a ryoba. This can do both coarse and fine work, and the sides are for cross-grain and with-the-grain (rip) cuts, so it will do everything you need a saw to do.
- a way to make holes. This means a drill, or a brace-and-bit if you want to dig through antiques.
- a hammer for hitting your chisel, driving nails, and persuading wood into places it doesn't want to go
- a way to sharpen the chisel. Best get a cheapo chinese diamond stone set for $15, see rex kruger's video on the set and find one of the many clones. Add a strop with green compound later if you cap out on how sharp you can get things.
- optional - a hand plane. A large block plane or a #4 or #5 size stanley-type plane is best for starting. Do some research here because a shitty plane is worse than no plane, and will make you hate planing and get frustrated. If you know you're serious about this you can jump right to something like a veritas low-angle jack plane and have it forever and you'll know that what you have will work properly. Otherwise probably buy a used pre-war stanley #4 locally and pray that your local marketplace still has them for $30.

Every other tool you can DIY using the above tools. Consider power tools as a way to speed up what you can already do by hand. That mentality alone will save you a lot of bad purchases.

What did I get myself into? Feel like I was le-reddited. I'm making cabinets and I'd like to be precise. Turns out you need double the cost of the saw to get the level of precision you'd get from a tablesaw. Prices are in Canadian pesos.

>$550 for saw, without track, if can find in stock
>$200 for battery, comes with free tool (kinda based)
>$260 for edge square
>$520 for parallel guides
>$55" track = $200 each, need 2 to rip full sheet, these are also often OOS
>$30 guide connector
>$180 track level to ensure guide connectors are precise
>=$2000
>could have just purchased a sawstop

>>2748282
You don't need all that stuff. Look at the great pieces that were built using just hand tools. A very skilled cabinet maker with the right tools can match any modern shop for precision. It will take longer for sure. I only have a corded contractor saw with a finish blade and I clamp a straight edge and finish with a hand plane.
Was able to put together this table with basic tools. Ignore the centre board, customer wanted the 'skunk stripe'.

>>2748294
very nice! Unfortunately, I'm already $1500 deep into this and I just realized to make repeatable cabinet cuts I'd need the $500 parallel guides as well so I'm licking my wounds.

Everybody learn from me, just get a fucking table saw and all you have to worry about is your blade being calibrated and your fence not deflecting. You don't need a science project worth of attachments like tracks require.

>>2747928
Why is it so complicated to make furniture?
I already started a class and we have a project but is very basic stuff and I want to start selling something as soon as possible, I see online that cutting boards is a popular thing for begginers, I think maybe I can do that or some jewelry boxes or bird houses?
Is there a book about standards? Like is there wood or finish you have to use specifically for food stuff? I make a piece of furniture how do I know is strong enough and if a fat ass sits on it and it breaks am I liable? So I want to know if there are some standards that apply to the finished product so I dont get sued or something.

>>2748282
>>$550 for saw, without track, if can find in stock
Over priced
>>$200 for battery, comes with free tool (kinda based)
Get corded unless you are working on a job site.
>>$260 for edge square
You should already have this
>>$520 for parallel guides
Not necessary
>>$55" track = $200 each, need 2 to rip full sheet, these are also often OOS
Make your own
>>$30 guide connector
Not necessary
>>$180 track level to ensure guide connectors are precise
Not necessary
>>=$2000
You let yourself get scammed.

Where would I be able to source cheaper hardwood. It's so damn expensive at the box stores.

>>2748371
Homo Depot is relatively competitive for s4s hardwood iirc but at least for me I would rather not get s4s since I have to plane and saw it up anyway.

>>2748145
Enjoy your dust

Of course, it wasn’t too long ago when I came upstairs because I thought a jet was taking off in my living room.
Turns out my son was on the playstation and closed the cabinet doors.
It died.

>>2748122
Do you know a good freecad tutorial?

>>2748301
It takes a long time to acquire the tools you need. Those items are useful for sure, I could never afford them. I bought a long piece of aluminum as a straight edge.
You are absolutely right about the table saw, it's a precision machine and the most important tool in the shop. Don't judge a book by its cover. I had a cabinet saw and many others and the one I have now is a Delta contractor saw that is the best yet, just lucky to get great castings and bearings, upgraded the mitre, added a router table to the end instead of buying a shaper.

>>2748371
You will never get furniture grade wood at HD in the dimensions that's affordable. Find a local dealer in rough lumber, lots around. You will need a planer, I have the Delta one, so you can buy better quality and cheaper wood. See if there is a local woodworking club around or FB group in your area, they will know the suppliers of rough lumber.

>>2748398
http://wayofwood.com/woodworking-designs-with-freecad/
this and the wiki is all I used

Does whittling fall under this thread?

>>2748437
There's also Rockler and Woodcraft if you have one in your area.

>>2748310
Books are written on that subject. Try this: build a 6x6 open box, mitred at the corners, you only have one attempt. The box corners should be perfect and it should sit flat on either end. Not so easy to get right, imagine building a full cabinet with dovetailed drawers.
I break down projects into four steps:
1. Design
2. Material selection
3. Build
4. Finish.
Each one of these is a book. I spend at least a quarter of my time on design, what's the point of all that work if it look wrong in the end, what a waste of wood, time, and effort.
Birdhouses are great to start, you will learn basic skills in all the phases and have a useful product, I think bird houses, cutting boards, small wooden ware (treen) are viable for a small shop to start, you can gradually add tools, build skill, and your customer base.
Finally, about 30 years ago I read a Fine Woodworking article about skill set. It pointed out that one of most important skills for a woodworker is how to correct for errors in the build, it's the essence of woodworking. There will be measurement and cutting errors that accumulate through the build, how do you adjust and compensate, how do you minimize errors?
I always suggest that if you can afford the time and money and want a career in the field to get in a program and learn woodworking that is taught as a system of knowledge.
Good luck!

>>2748487
Yes, it's how I started, anyway.

https://www.carvingjunkies.com/whittling-history.html

>>2747855
Scrounge up free or cheap lumber and build things with nails or screws.

Get these used:

claw hammer
old corded drill
flat head screwdriver
Phillip head screwdriver
tape measure
hacksaw
clamps (4 or more)
speed square
wood rasp (changeable blades)

Get these new:
hand saw
drill bits
coarse hacksaw blades.
1/2 inch chisel
wood glue
nails
screws
sandpaper
rasp blades

Build a sawbench or pair of sawhorses

Then a mallet

Then a box for your tools if you don't have one.

(real woodworkers are welcome to make suggestions or disparaging comments about the list.)

Does anyone know what the material is that goes on the bottom of a circular saw guide rail to make it not slip? I wanted to check in the hardware store but they screwed them down to a table

>>2748483
Thank you anon, different anon but I have been playing around in librecad but it’s an absolute pain to use, and I can’t be bothered to pirate solidworks.

>>2743432
Embarrassed to say I tried to be this guy. It's a romantic idea that just doesn't work out well in reality unless you're an uber autist with lots of spare hours.

Still good skills to learn though. But 100% hand tool woodworking with furniture-level precision is for the birds.

>>2748433
Unless you've got the cash for something like a sawstop PCS, is getting a midgrade contractors or cabinet saw even worth the effort over just getting the latest Dewalt jobsite saw? Seems like they've gotten better with the rack and pinion fence and larger table.

>>2748714
I like having the external motor. The motor can be rebuilt and those models are better quality overall. The delta contractor saw is great value, so many for sale around $200 or less and these have actual bearings, cast top etc. One thing I've always done is to have the motor 'dipped and baked' at an electric motor service, really improves sound and performance. These used Delta/Beaver saws and be tuned up to run true, all parts are replaceable, basically run forever. I could get a 'better' saw, but why would I, cuts perfect 90's.

Is this a sound joint method? This would be at the top of a 4x4 leg for a workbench and only the two middle legs would be notched in this way (the bench would have 3 legs front and back). I don't know if there's a name for this type of joinery, it's like a half-lap but I'm only notching one timber. Excuse the shitty drawing I did in 2 minutes. This is a view as if you were sitting beneath the work surface, between the front and back legs.

>>2748707
I'm not 100% that guy but I'm like 95%. I run machines all day at work I just want some peace and quiet when I'm doing my hobby. I'll even use the old egg beater most times instead of my electric drill.

>>2748790
That will work. Put a couple of GSK fastners to hold the two pieces in place. I made my workbench using bridle joints. My legs were 4x4, notched the centre, pics online, easy and very strong. If you want to take some time check out The Workbench Book, great ideas for workbench design, joinery

I have a section of soffit I need to replace. What sort of wood does this typically call for?

>>2748806
typically spruce or pine. spruce is cheaper.

>>2748790
How are the two horizontal beams connected? half lap? And are you gluing?
Because on the leg it’s mostly end grain that makes contact. Anyway it’s probably okay. I assume you don’t want to offset the two connections? That’s what I would do

>>2748796
I wouldn’t put too many fasteners into the small vertical notch that remains on the leg, it could split

>>2748919
>>>2748796 (You)
>I wouldn’t put too many fasteners into the small vertical notch that remains on the leg, it could split

One fastner for each side, just to hold the cross piece in place, pre-drill.

>>2748796
>>2748919

I’ve only got access to a circular saw for cuts, so doing bridle joints seemed a bit tedious.

I think I’m going to just only cut a notch for the 2x4 that serves as the skirt on the front of the 4x4. The other one (the 2x4 with end grain towards the viewer) I’ll just butt joint and pocket screw I think.

>>2748664
why do i need the box if i'm not going anywhere with the tools

>>2748982
Can be dangerous to cut end grain with a circular saw, more doable with a hand saw.
Your new plan does work but pocket screws are a weak point. I would use long GSK fastners instead through the front., stronger, easy to assemble. I build this stand for my drill press using GSK and glue, thing is supper strong, so easy

.>>2746479

>>2749003
We don’t have gsk where I live but I see them mentioned a lot, is it a layman’s term for some specific screw they make or just the brand?

>>2749063
>>2749063
It's a brand of structural screw, can get them at Home Depot and online at Amazon.
Correction: "GRK"
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/grk--8-x-1-1-4-inch-star-drive-round-washer-head-low-profile-cabinet-screws-climatek-coated-100pcs/1000739593

>>2749003
Thanks. Are those the lag screws? Also, if I wanted to glue the joints as well for security, would I need to clamp in this case or just glue, screw and that's enough to hold the surfaces together? I don't have any pipe clamps or anything long enough to clamp pieces this big.

>>2749092
Those are not lag screws. New type of structural screw, comes with a driver head, only started using them a few years ago, very aggressive in wood.
The screws themselves will act as a clamp. If you were building a shop now is the time to start buying clamps, but not worth it if this is a one-off project.

>>2748707
Planing is relaxing tho. I spent two hours today getting some pine boards straight and square just to get my mind off work stuff. Then used the mitre saw to cut them of course

>>2749141
Can you help me (>>2749063) and other anon >>2749092 out and post a pic of the screw you mean? If I search for it here I get different kinds of generic screws. One of these?

>>2748294
Are you the older gentleman from the last thread?

>>2749227
Yes, that is me.

>>2749194
I use both, if you look at my pic you can see the difference. The one on the right is the one I recommend, washer head, better holding power. They are expensive but perfect for your project, only need a few. I used them last summer to attach steps to the stair stringer.

>>2746460
is this better than that shelving system that guy made with the hooks

>>2749194
The spax is a pan head. It's like a tiny timberlok. That design is good for pulling material together and the screw head stays proud. Pocket hole screws and many cabinet mounting screws follow a similar method. The screw on the left is conical head that recesses or finishes flush. The reverse thread is to prevent it from working back over time. These are generally deck and exterior construction screws.

>>2749276
It's more versatile for sure. I think the original that you shared looks pretty dumb and hick, but pegboards are also function over form, so pick your poison. I. Reality, who's going to be storing several dozen sets of keys and similarly sized baubles?

>>2749369
no i mean compared to this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HFYVj8_Z_I

>>2748145
Would you describe this as through-tenon legs? I'm interested in making that style of shelf/case.

>>2749385
That is a good question. Raises the key point about the importance of design, this took me a month to figure out. I did not want to cut through tenons for a few reasons, but instead opted to use embedded anchor bolts and inserts. This means I disassemble later, which is aways a good option. It's an old standard to always build your stuff to it can be disassembled for repair later without destroying the piece. Here is one pic of how I aligned the shelves to place the uprights, shows the screw down from the top and anchor nut.

>>2749385
Shows alignment using machine tools, good crossover to metal fabrication work. I built and alignment jig, each leg is in exactly the same location.

>>2749385
Shows the alignment set up, I had all my tools out for this one. Shows how other tools and approaches are used in woodworking. I bought the metal setup pieces when a local machine shop closed, so cheap and so useful to get perfect alignment. The piece is simple to look at, light, open, the feature should be on the stereo components, not on the cabinet. A unique one off piece that you will never see in a store. This was for personal use, but something similar could sell easily to the well-healed audio community.

>>2749272
>>2749318
Thanks I’ll get a box of those on the right to try for my new projects.

> if you look at my pic you can see the difference
It’s 2024 but us Europeans still can’t access home depot website

>>2749402
>>2749403
>>2749404
There has to be an easier way to achieve this.

>>2749446
There is, use dowels, but I wanted to disassemble later. Dowels are glued in. Also, I was intrigued with the idea, for the fun of it to find this technical solution. I've cut a lot of tenons, that's boring. This is a very clean look, all the joinery is hidden.

I built a lamp from vintage photo slides

>>2749411
> us Europeans still can’t access home depot website
Are fucking kidding?
U.S. will be soon to follow, they’re working on effectively banning table saws—ahead of europe for once!
No, they’re not doing anything about more dangerous tools, such as angle griders—just table saws, TTI is suing for a monopoly to triple the price.

>>2749462
>they’re working on effectively banning table saws
No they're not, stop fear-mongering.

>>2749466
He doesn't know

>>2749067
> GRK, .ca
Get robertson drives. I just had to remove a bunch of intermixed GRK and robertson trim-head screws.
The T10 torx are terrible fit when new with a lot of slop, and removing them was even harder—even my virgin milwaulkee bits I keep for such occasions couln’t get them out, so I had to use a reverse thread screw extractor.
All replaced with robertsons since the GRK heads were unusable. So is their pot-metal bit that comes with them.

>>2749470
They're creating regulations to have AIM features installed on table saws. That's a good thing.

>>2749453
I mean there's got to be an easier way to register the tenons without using a draconian torture chamber's worth of metalwork.

>>2749489
Glad you appreciate the aesthetics of woodworking like I do. l like the creative solution and fact that I could disassemble. It does look cool using these things. My first idea was to cut short stub tenons, but not much glue surface and racking would damage the joint. This solution is stronger. Dowels have to be drilled straight through perfectly, I actually have more leeway with the screw/anchor approach. I made a template to locate the centre of the upright, so that was easy. If I was in production mode I might do it differently but this was for me and for fun. You don't need the setup tools, but I had them and they can be very useful to hold items at perfect 90's, I've used them in cabinet work to hold panels at 90 using a C-clamp.

>>2749507
Maybe I'm not fully understanding how you're using the alignment pieces to square your holes, but it seems to me that an alignment jig on a drill press would allow you to drill consistent and repeatable holes for registering the tenons. You'd need two spacings, one for the screw down and one for the anchor nut. It looks like your end grain is exposed at the contact with the shelf, but if you didn't want that, you'd then have a template to rout and chisel a recess.

I'm not saying you did it wrong, I'm just working out how I might do it, because I do like the insert design of the legs and would enjoy a collapsible build like that. (I just moved jobs/offices and I need additional shelving for my new space.)

>>2749511
I keep saying "tenon" when I don't mean to. I understand they aren't traditional tenons, but the contact and registration work similar, kinda-sorta, so that word is still in my head.

>>2749481
Yeah, we’ll need AIM in drills, jigsaws, belt sanders, jointers and planers, lathes, angle grinders, bandsaws, chopsaws, and shop vacs, too. Also hand chisels.

>>2749513
Piss off.

>>2749511
inset**

>>2749481
If you weren't a piece of shit you would have given away the technology like Volvo did with seatbelts. Instead you're a piece of shit and tried to force your competitors to use your shit andnpay for your payents and license technology from you.

Even if they prayed rhier own design and did it their own way you still shit all over them with patents


I guess that's how important actually saving people's fingers actually wad to you shitters at saw stop.

Fuck you pieces of shit. Learn from Volvo. That's how you actually make shiy safer. Invent seat belts and instead of making everyone pay you money you just let them use it because you actually don't want people to die.

>>2749520
?

>>2749511
It's great to have this discussion, takes another woodworker to appreciate the design problem I had. All I get from others is '...that's nice', but it was a challenging project. I spent a long time pondering how to do this so that I would achieve the openness and lightness of the design without compromising strength, that is a classic problem. With cabinet work there is frame strength, but not with this design. I considered the first obvious approach of dowels or tenons, and that I work alone, so using a drill press alone with a 2"x52" board would not be easy. If I used dowel/tenons that creates 16 potential points of failure due to racking forces on very weak glued joints with no mechanical strength. I considered using 1/4" threaded rod with a routed channel, like a guitar truss rod, that has great strength (potentially) but get complicated and ugly very quickly. I wanted the pieces of figured maple to be clear on all sides.
This final solution looks complicated but I felt it was the best compromise design that was strong and clean, meaning minimalist with sufficient strength. I glued in the threaded inserts to the shelf, hanger bolts on the uprights, screwed from the top down, I could apply a lot of force and it all holds together, good balance between design and strength, I got 100% of my design goal and 80% of the strength.

>>2749531
You don't have a Volvo seat belt on your table saw?

>>2749461
Looks nice anon. I assume you put the shade on a thrifted lamp, right?

>>2749520
I thought the patent was over for Saw Stop?

>>2749572
The rest of them are expiring this year. Schizoid anon is just ornery. Soon every DeWalt/Ryobi/Delta/Milfuckee will have AIM built in.

>>2749572
They parlayed that into over 150 patents, and they’re trying to extend the period of them including one they are trying to take to the supreme court.

>>2749514
Found the actual sawstop guy!
Why don’t you care about people’s safety?
Why did you sue Bosh when they came up with a better and safer system? Now I have to import them individually through an intermediary,

why dont they make the base on a plunge router stick to one place with a knob so that it turns into fixed base router

>>2749719
they do

>>2748487
whats a good knife for it
already broke a foldable knife trying to take off dry bark

>>2749746
I know there are knifes for whittling and carving you can buy.
Personally, Im a cheap and lazy bastard so I just took a one set of those breakaway blades from a box cutter, glued them between two pieces of wood so only about an inch pokes out, wrapped it all in some string, put more glue on that and it works alright. Took me 5 minutes, its sharp out of the box, easy to sharpen when it dulls and entirely replaceable, so I have no qualms working it hard until it breaks.
The only problem is that it IS flimsy and WILL chip or snap if you twist it, so you have to mind that when you use it. Also, blade spine is really thin, so pushcutting with your offhand thumb is not comfy at all.

I also made a similar thing with one of those utility knife replaceable razors, you know, the short ones. Not as flimsy as the one above, but it seems to not bite into the wood as well, probably because the razor I found is dull and needs more touchup.

>broke a foldable knife trying to take off dry bark
Don't twist blade, mind the knots in the wood, maintain sharp edge, make sure you always know where the blade is going to end up after you make a cut.
Don't push too hard- if you cant make a cut either your blade is too dull(strop it), wood is too hard(either a knot or you got too hard of a wood) or you try to bite more than you can chew(always remove just a little bit at a time).

>>2743370
i dont think you could really call that being a woodworker, stuff like that just falls under the broad category of being a craftsman, since basic wood stuff is more of a means to an end rather than an end itself
like a guy with a chainsaw can make a log cabin, he's not a carpenter he's a settler or a house builder, or a guy with a saw can cut panels for a book cover, but he's still not a carpenter he's just binding a book

>>2749799
>make a log cabin
>cut wood panels for a book cover
nta, and I don't know shit, but both seem like examples of woodworking.
Woodworking to me is a very broad, generous and literal term-you work with wood, or work the wood, to make something.

>>2749799
>carpenter from latin carpentum which means wagon or cart
kek

>>2749766
>Personally, Im a cheap and lazy bastard so I just took a one set of those breakaway blades from a box cutter, glued them between two pieces of wood so only about an inch pokes out, wrapped it all in some string, put more glue on that and it works alright.
Please never do this.

>>2749842
I agree that dedicated tools are always better than makeshift solutions, but it works decently well for me.
You just have to mind that its not even close to a sturdiness of a proper knife and work within those limitations.
Basically don't be an idiot or you will at best fuck up stuff you're working on or break the blade and at worst slice open your artery and bleed out to death in two minutes.
The 'don't be an idiot' advice really applies to anything and everything tho, more people should listen to it.

>>2749847
No. This isn't a case of, "well, it works for me, just be careful!" You're giving phenomenally bad advice. You've already acknowledged that the "makeshift solution" can chip or snap if you apply the wrong kind of pressure. There are many cases in whittling where you'll draw the blade to your own thumb. Paring cuts are already a bit dangerous. There's no need to raise the stakes.

Starter whittling knives cost like $13. All-in-one starter kits run about $30 and usually come with a couple of blades, a block or two, sandpaper, etc. You can buy them off Amazon or at your local Woodcraft.

https://www.amazon.com/BeaverCraft-Complete-Starter-Whittling-Beginners/dp/B07XY6KTVS
https://www.amazon.com/BeaverCraft-Beginners-Wood-Carving-Whittling/dp/B0829225Y1

> The 'don't be an idiot' advice really applies to anything and everything tho, more people should listen to it.
Yeah, including yourself, dumbfuck. Stop giving beginners retarded advice and passing it off as sage wisdom.

>>2749928
This buy it yourself forum sure has a lot of advertisements in it.

Weekend project almost done Should I put some wax on the boards or nah?

>>2749928
First thing I did was mention that there are knifes specifically made for this.
Then, I posted a 'retarded advice' that I myself personally tested, with warnings about the dangers it brings.
All I did was present an option, as honestly as I was able, its up to him to asses the risk vs. reward of it.
Also, there is no 'sage wisdom' about this, Im just an anon on goose shepherding forum, all advice here should be taken with a grain of salt.
All in all, fuck you too, buddy.

>>2749985
>>2749985
Nah, perfect as is.

>>2749943
It would be one thing if you were talking about making an actual knife, instead of some prison shank tier shit.

>>2749999
> goose shepherding
It’s called gooseherding

>>2750073
But geese don't herd, they flock, shouldn't it be gooseflocking then?

>>2750086
Are you talking about a gaggle of geese?

>>2749943
>DIY stuff generally requires decent tools to do things
>Gets mad people are recommending tools

>>2750091
Yes, a gaggle of geese that flock.

Is carpentry good as a trade?

>>2750108
Yes. You will never be unemployed.

where's a good place to find a decent #5 hand plane? my budget is ~$50

>>2750127
Vintage? I got mine from an old tool stand at a local market. You can check by eye if it’s straight and if it was abused, which helps a lot if you’re getting your first hand plane.

>>2750130
Tried that, unfortunately the only one i could find in my area was a crusty looking sb4, and the guy wanted $50 for it (brand new on amazon its $30......)

>>2750127
May be findable at estate sales and maybe antique stores (antique stores are a mixed bag pricing wise, may be more expensive). The #5 is theoretically one of the most common sizes, rivaled by only the #4.

There's always ebay too, though shipping might push it beyond your budget. Unfortunately most of the new ones that are affordable are also pretty shit.

>>2750137
Have to tell you the cheap modern SB4 with the two separate adjustment screws is absolute trash compared to the older ones (had one for two years, worst one I’ve ever used), the more expensive modern no. 4 also doesn’t get any good reviews. Where I live the estate sale guys know that old Stanleys are in demand and will happily price them at €50 no matter the state. The corrugated sole ones are available more often and less in demand (probably because paul sellers doesn’t like them) but they are fine planes too in my opinion

>>2743274
I was bevel cutting some wood at 45° on my new bevel/miter saw and man that was some hard fucking wood, also for some reason aluminum shavings came off along the wood ones.

French cleat wall
Should I or should I not?

>>2750127
$50 won't get you a decent new build. Rockler has a Bench Dog model that's normally $200, but often goes on sale. I bought mine at the end of December for $130.

Veritas and Lie-Nielsen are considered the two really good manufacturers of new planes, and their #5s are a lot more expensive than that.

Basically, you gotta hunt second-hand to find a good plane at that budget.

>>2750155
Check your fence before making a cut, dumbass.

Your blade's probably fine, but you've trimmed the fence.

>>2750163
They're pretty neat.

>>2750184
that's the joke

>>2750163
Yes but, as with most storage facilities, build it larger than you think you'll need. Invariably you'll run out of space and resort to stacking things unceremoniously on the nearest unused area of a workbench.

To anyone who has experience when it comes to making production pieces, how do you go about getting repeatable rip cuts on your table saw over time? I'm considering something like picrel, but each project I do might have multiple cuts that need repeated, and I don't trust myself to dial it in accurately each time because I'm working with some very tight tolerances. I'm also not doing a lot of super thin rips. The narrowest would be about 1.5 to 2 inches.

I'm considering picking up some HDPE strips (below) and making a series of static stops, but that could get pretty absurd pretty fast.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71636-Miter-Crosscut-Fixtures/dp/B0B3WXCVT

>>2750252
Your pic is of a crosscut, did you mean rip or cross cut?

>>2750271
Yes, I mean rip cuts. Thanks for checking. I have a very good Incra miter gauge for making repeatable cross cuts.

>>2750252
Get a crosscut sled. Have a fixed block in it. Have specially sized blocks for each size you need to cut. Label them so you don't lose them

>>2750271
All I do is set the fence to the desired width. I know this gets sketchy with very thin pieces, you might get some waste pieces, and I use a push stick/push block of course. I find it helpful when doing a lot of these at once to have someone on the outfeed table side to pull the piece through. You can get them close and finish the cut surfaces by putting the pieces on a planer sled.

>>2750252
Maybe cut some scrap blocks to the exact widths you need and mark them clearly what parts they're for and what orientation you'll use to set the fence with.

Does anybody have any experience with building public goods outside of their property? I wanted to build a pullup/dip bar in my friend's yard and use that as evidence I could build it for the town parks and rec department. I'd like to build in our public park, so anyone can work out, and I'm going to be buying all the materials since I see this as charity work.
Does this seem like a reasonable plan or does anyone have any suggestions?
The image is similar to what I had in mind.

>>2750372
That has unnecessary iability written all over it.

>>2750411
liability**

>>2750372
You can get a pull up bar that fits in a door frame for $30USD at Amazon. I've had one for years.

>>2750281
For the lengths I want to rip, I don't think a crosscut sled is the best option.

>>2750285
>All I do is set the fence to the desired width
My issue is how I can get precise widths over time (without relying on the ruler tape on my table saw).

>>2750359
This is probably what I'll have to end up doing. Place the block between the fence and the flat area of the blade. The kerf would still be off a bit, but I can account for that in the width. Might be worth getting some 1/2" acrylic to avoid them getting beaten up over time.

>>2750372
lol no competent administration is going to approve of two 2x4s with a metal bar screwed into them
just get a pull up bar for your door, i literally did 3 sets of weighted chin ups with 45 lbs with mine an hour ago

>>2750481
Almost every playground and school yard in my country has one of these. The approval guy just comes to check if the bolts are tightened and the poles are deep enough in the soil.

>>2750467

This is a great solution.

>>2750359
This is probably what I'll have to end up doing. Place the block between the fence and the flat area of the blade. The kerf would still be off a bit, but I can account for that in the width. Might be worth getting some 1/2" acrylic to avoid them getting beaten up over time.

How do I even begin? I've got a little bit of experience and some tools and a garage. No way I'm learning to fucking code, nor am I working for someone else. I just wanna learn and sell shit. But where do I begin? Making trinkets on Etsy?

>>2743532
>maybe in a few years try a box
bro, that's probably one of the easiest projects. Just need some nails and a few 2 by 4s. Just jump in and get busy.

>>2743342
>burns down overnight

>>2743442
fuck me, that's beautiful. There's nothing like european style high level carpentry. We need to bring this back into fashion again

>>2743447
>notoriously expensive
you know you can go to the dump and get materials for free, right? I've never paid much money and I've found high quality wood all over the place. I live in france though, maybe its different in amerimutt-land

>>2743487
must be a bunch of books on the subject. I'd recommend your local library.

>>2750372
>>2750499
>pole directly in soil

whats that cut called when you go all the way through the wood or board to make a channel like a guide for a bolt to slide

Is there a difference between a tracksaw and a circular saw? Is a tracksaw a circular saw that comes with a track? Can I make any circular saw a track saw?

>>2750506
Well, what are your goals? It sounds like you want to replace your income with woodworking income?

>>2750569
T-slot, use a t-slot router bit.

>>2750606
no man talking about a straight slot all the way through

Went to my local big box stores yesterday to buy some plywood.
The have the gull to ask 60+ dollars for the shittiest looking boards I have ever seen.
Where do you guys buy decent looking plywood in Canada specifically?.

>>2750607
Just a hole, as in a drill hole or hole cutter? Drill bits drill 'drill holes'.

>>2750571
Yes but the term track saw is used more for the more expensive ones that are exclusively meant to be used with the track while the circular saw can be freehanded to make offcuts

>>2750663
Why shouldnt I use the tracksaw freehanded once in a while?

>>2750672
Because you have a circular saw that you spent $85 on versus a track saw that you spent $300+ on.

>>2750583
Ideally, but it seems the market is saturated these days

>>2750674
Im obviously new to this but I dont get why I cant just get a tracksaw and do both, does freehand somehow shortens the life of it significantly?

>>2750687
Are you a commercial or professional woodworker with lots of orders, if not, you don't need this stuff. Get a good circ saw, I have a great porter cable saw. If you can justify a track saw, then get one. Just start with a good circ saw and reassess later.

>>2750672
Most track saws are plunge saws so even though you can use them without a track, it's not as straightforward as a regular circular saw.
I know Makita makes some of their newer circular saws with track compatible bases so that might be something you can look into.

>>2750672
The track saw is normally twice the price, twice as heavy and most importantly you cannot see the blade going through the wood on many of them. Iirc dewalt wouldn’t even slide well because the notches for the rail are interrupted in the middle (or maybe that was the festool)

>>2743442
the table's obscured by this dead pixel so i can't tell if it's any good, 0/10

>>2750553
You'll spend more on tools than you will in wood during your first year or two, anon.

I'd like to build a box with a leather liner at the bottom. With test pieces that I've made, it's been frustrating to glue up and finish the box with the leather-lined box bottom inside. Any suggestions for how to work this out?

>>2750769
You could first build the box and in the second step add and glue in place a piece of leather lined plywood.

>>2750785
That's what I'm turning over in my head. Right now the plywood bottom fits into a groove. There are only two ways I could add the plywood bottom later: 1) rabbet out an inside ledge in the bottom and insert from the bottom, or 2) mill down all but the bottom of the walls to create a ledge and insert from the top.

Is there an easier way?

>>2745679
If you mean carving the threads into the wood itself I don't think you'd be able to get the tolerance good enough for it to seal loosely without the potential of it warping from moisture and breaking the glass, but I'm not certain

>>2746483
Don't build indoor furniture with cca, while you probably won't be licking tables - your kids, or the kids of whoever buys the table in the future, are just dumb as hell and will be touching, handling, and potentially even chewing on the table at some point and it's better to just remove the potential of exposure altogether

>>2750793
>>2750793
What about just pushing it in for a snug fit? Cut the inside piece just under the inside dimension, wrap the leather around the piece, and push it straight in. It can be held in with glue or very small finishing nails, probably friction will keep it in place.
An alternative is flocking, you can get the materials at Lee Valley.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/search#q=flocking&t=product-search-tab&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=25

>>2750701
Mafell also makes various (expensive) track tools, like a big circular saw for trimming thicker panels, or a Grooving tool that can cut the tenons on a big timber in seconds.

>>2750703
>Iirc dewalt wouldn’t even slide well because the notches for the rail are interrupted in the middle (or maybe that was the festool)
Sounds like you just didn't align the two tracks correctly when assembling them.

>>2750651
i said slot dumbass like a wide slit

>>2750411
That's a fair point, I think I will still try to ask the town, if it doesn't work then I'll just have built a pull-up bar for my friend.
>>2750426
>>2750481
I'm not doing this so I can have a pullup bar. I genuinely hate how American towns have no pullup/dip bars anywhere to be found outside of gyms. >>2750481 also nice on the chinups. before I started a recent bulk that I'm cutting right now I got a PR of 30lbs weighted pullups for 8 reps at 175 lbs bodyweight.

>>2750372
Those are fence posts with a connecting bar. The fact that people are already calling for lawyers is how sorry this world has become. THOSE GYMASTICS BARS ARE RACIAL SEXUAL ASSAULT

Dig a little deeper maybe 2x normal post for s&gs. Add a sleeve right at the ground level because that's where fences generally rot. Sand + stain.

>>2750876
>>2750563
I should mention that I'm not just simply sticking the posts in the ground, concrete will be added to the holes

>>2744116
I would spray using a gradient of shakers. Take it outside and shoot from what about 6" out. You're just dusting when you spray. Start and stop off the piece.

After you've cut your triangle dowels into chunks, I'd put them out in about groups of 20. Spray rotate 90 repeat.

>>2750883
A fence post is gravel under 1 bag of concrete, 1 4x4 dug to 1/2 height.
People like to get real reddit about "it's going to rot, do it this way." The AC2 lumber will last well on it's own. Protecting it from constantly wicking right at the surface level and sealing with stain will add much more. We're talking 10-15 years bare wood in concrete, double with a little care. Reddit is building plastic decks with joist tape and elastomeric membranes in Portland.

clueless beginner here, i'm making a decorative shaft for an italian guisarme
i want it to radiate DIY juryrigged-garbage energy, but still be nice to look at

the mounting socket that was on the blade was a complete piece of shit so i decided to cut it off and slot the blade directly into the shaft
the shaft is a tree branch that's been drying in a shed for 3-4 years
i peeled off a bit of bark and thought the woodborer grooves were kinda neat-lookin' so i ran with it

all of the loose bark has been stripped off and i want to prep the surface for a (TBD) finish, but i've hit a wall
no matter how i sand it there are always raised wood fibres sticking up

i've had no success getting it smooth with any combination of:
>180/240/400/600 grit paper
>moderate/light pressure
>sanding circularly or going with/across/slightly diagonal to the grain

how badly will these loose fibres ruin an attempt to oil or stain the wood?
do i have to painstakingly remove everything that isn't heartwood before the surface stops trying to come off in tiny strips?
should i not worry?

obviously my next move is to blast it with fire and just burn off all the fuzz with a roofing torch, but i thought i'd better ask DIY first

i'm also looking for suggestions for a good finishing process to make the grooves stand out (nothing glossy)
many thanks

>>2750898
>there are always raised wood fibres sticking up
You probably still picking up dried cambium layer, I would hazard keeping on sanding until all dark brown in your pic is gone, delicately and with finest paper you have, to retain woodborer marks.

>>2750895
I'll add a shield then, thank you very much.

>>2750805
You misread my posts or maybe I wasn’t clear, the bottom of some track saws isn’t continuous so it won’t slide well if you use it _without_ the rail

>>2750895
The problem is people pouring the concrete too close to surface normally. This gives a stress concentration where the beam leaves the concrete, it gets loose from wear and hits the concrete edge all the time, chipping away some wood until it breaks

>>2750809
Oh, you're talking about your girlfriend, head over to /adv. If you're talking woodworking, a slot is a slot.

>>2750680
The usual markets are saturated, but not every market. Most people work full-time in a moderately well-paying career while pursuing woodworking as a hobby, then they pivot to woodworking full-time as they near retirement. This is mainly true for folks who make custom furniture (not conducive to mass production) or items to sell at farmer's markets (conducive to mass production with limited equipment, and therefore saturated -- how many tables at craft fares do you see selling cutting boards?).

The answer, as in any business, is to niche down and produce consistently high-quality work in an efficient way. I make high-end tabletop gaming accessories that I've managed to sell very well online and at regional conventions. I have my own jigs and processes for making my products, and that's something I've only been able to refine with time and experience.

So, what's your niche? What do you want to make?

>>2751016
>So, what's your niche? What do you want to make?
I don't even know yet, maybe religious stuff as that seems a niche. Chopping boards with Jesus quotes on it, etc. I'd love to eventually get into furniture making but for nowt trinkets will do I guess

>>2751016
>What do you want to make?
hanging wooden bench

>>2751033
Okay, so, if you want to do quotes, inscriptions, carvings, etc., you'll need some additional equipment, i.e., a CNC router or a laser engraver. You can get a very low-end CNC for about $150 to $200, but it won't be very good and it will give you a lot of grief. For CNC routers that will last, you'll be looking at $1,200+. Laser engravers come with their own set of concerns, including price, power consumption, and venting (toxic fumes).

Have you thought about just pursuing woodworking as a hobby without needing to make money just yet?

>>2743274
cant sharpen my little carving knife. :(

Any suggestions for a benchtop router table? I just need it to house a trim router for lighter work, nothing too big and beefy, and it needs to fit in small areas.

>>2750876
> THOSE GYMASTICS BARS ARE RACIAL SEXUAL ASSAULT
Idiot.

Complete beginner here without any tools or experience. I would like to handcraft a cigarette box like pic related as a gift for someone's birthday in April and was wondering how difficult the woodwork would be and what the steps might look like. I've taken a peek at a few "beginner box" videos on Youtube but they seem to not just be larger, but rely on hinges whereas this one is relatively small and uses what seems to be a metal piece on the inside to keep the lid attached. I'll post more pictures following this post.

>>2751230

>>2751232
Any advice would be appreciated. I think I'll just need wood, a saw, a drill, sandpaper, and some glue, but I don't really know all that much!

>>2751136
Do you have a table saw? I put my router table between the rails. You can make your own or buy one.

>>2751230
>>2751232
>>2751234
If you want it to look good, no, you will not be able to complete this with limited tools and no experience, especially not by April.

Watch more videos and start off with something simpler, like a simple box with a pull-away lid.

>>2751240
I do, but it's just a small little DeWalt jobsite saw. It could maybe do the job, maybe not, but I'm okay mounting it onto my bench as well.

> You can make your own or buy one.
> buy one
Where and which model? The only ones I'm seeing have either generally shit reviews (the Rockler one with the MDF top whose veneer rubs off) or almost no reviews (random Chinesium shit).

>>2751136
This is what I'm planning to buy: https://kmtools.com/products/copy-of-benchtop-router-table-for-3x3-custom-trim-router-jig-presale

The big advantage is that you get the multi-function jig plate with it that lets you just drop it into the table without needing to unscrew anything.

>>2751253
I hate JKM an unreasonable amount but I was also eyeballing this. That's a lot to pay for a router table, though. I could get a full-size router table + router for that.

https://www.amazon.com/RT1323-01-Router-Table-10Amp-Fixed/dp/B09FPBFQSX/

>>2751255
(Okay, maybe not full-size, but still bigger than the JKM piece.)

>>2751253
> stationary benchtop router table
> lithium ion battery-powered trim router
The absolute state….

>>2751290
What?

>>2751255
Yeah, but I already have a nice DeWalt trim router. And you're also getting the $80 router plate/jig kit as part of it.

>>2751290
You can also use it with corded routers, bud. The point is that it's a combination table and multi-function jig plate kit that works with most trim routers out there, including the DW, Bosch, and Makita plunge bases.

how do handtool people cut profiles
i supposed a round one can be done with a spokeshave

>>2751163
uhh omg the liability omg call osha and HOA there's an unlicensed pullup bar that's not up to code! Where's the use at your own risk sign? Why aren't there renewable cut up tires underneath?

>>2750920
Cool. I notice most deck rot in areas that wick such as end grain and concrete contact or connected to siding without flashing. Considering how long untreated lumber lasts, this stuff still does very well even with the casualties.

>>2751396
What do you mean by profiles?

>>2751412
Yes, municipalities are bound by certain codes and restrictions when it comes to installing exercise equipment in public use areas. I'm not sure why you're sperging so hard at this.

>>2751309
>Yeah, but I already have a nice DeWalt trim router.
Sure, but many people have multiple routers for different purposes because they're relatively cheap and swapping them around is a bitch.

>And you're also getting the $80 router plate/jig kit as part of it.
Yeah, I guess.

some guy on a website is claiming you need 1 hp motor to make an inch cut on a table saw
that can't be right yes?

>>2751502
Correct, that is not true, generally. If you are ripping beech, it would help. Much depends on the wood etc.

>>2751249
I made my own with mdf, angle iron, router template, but this one looks good.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-18-x-27-router-extension-table-for-table-saw/h7507

Newb here

Jointer or Planer first

>>2751547
Planer 100%

>>2751547
table saw first, you probably will ever need a jointer, followed by planer

I'd like to learn to make small wood sculptures/figurines, any resources or info about tools I have and some guides ?

>>2751530
That's $380, anon.

>>2751577
>>2751579
I have the table saw. 12.5" or 13"?

I've made a jointer jig but it sucks.

>>2751597
Jointer jigs always suck. Planer sleds are okay, but damn if my world didn't open up when I finally shelled out for a planer. I don't even use it that much for planing per se, mainly thicknessing since I do a lot of smaller scale production work.

Always go as big as you can afford. That 0.5" matters more than you think it will.

>>2751530
Not a fan of how it can't take a lift unit like all the ones Rockler sells, and since it's iron you can't upgrade it later.

I'd use Melamine if I was going for a cheap DIY tabletop instead of just MDF.

>>2751835
I'd probably use hardboard glued onto MDF.

>>2751594
yeah, just fyi, that's why I made my own.

>>2751631
for sure, I had a 15" industrial planer once, really opens up possibilities. I have the dewalt now at 13", so much easier to move around and store.

>>2751835
melamine is great for this use, better than mdf. You could buy precut ones in melamine. My first one was beech and that was pretty nice also.

>>2751888
I'm pissed that my big box store only sells melamine sheets in 4x8. Hardboard I can get in 2x2 and it works perfectly.

>>2752099
> melamine 4x8 shhets only
That, and the fucking price is insane.
>>2751852
This is what I do. Mdf is like a sponge. Apparently there is an Ldf but nobody carries it.
I got lick, my HD carried 1/8" hardboard—perfect for gluing onto particle, osb, and mdf to make a good surface. It’s all that resin load when they press hardboard.

>>2752099
> melamine 4x8 shhets only
That, and the fucking price is insane.
>>2751852
This is what I do. Mdf is like a sponge. Apparently there is an Ldf but nobody carries it.
I got lucky, my HD carried 1/8" hardboard—perfect for gluing onto particle, osb, and mdf to make a good surface. It’s all that resin load when they press hardboard.

Would it be safe to cut it like this? Or should I make the side flat first? Saw only goes 2” deep so I’ll have to make two cuts, one from each side.

>>2752221
I don't know shit about woodworking, but that looks like a job for a chainsaw.

>>2752221
Better question: what the hell, or how the hell was the end of that cut with. Beavers?
I think if i was building a lot of log cabins, I’d train my beavers to do mortises, so I’d come back in the morning and they’d all be cut

>>2752233
It was split with a splitting wedge initially but I had some beers during new years eve and tried to make it fit in the fire drum with a hatchet but that failed

>>2752232
Probably yes but I don’t have one. I just want to cut a 4” slice from it and then make that square. I could use a handsaw but if it’s safe to do with a circular and doesn’t ruin the blade or wood I’d rather use that

>>2751530
How is the angle iron incorporated?

>>2752233
>>2752284
Nvm that, I thought you were asking about the lengthwise split. The end was cut by municipal workers I think. They cut some trees in my neighbourhood and left this piece of stump behind when they picked it up, probably because it was too heavy (before I split it) to throw into a trailer. I think they use chainsaws and it’s illegal to employ beavers here

>>2752099
One I have now is doubled up birch plywood that can be bought in 1/4 sheets.

>>2752287
Under the table, bolted to the rails. I will post a pic later.

>>2752399
Thanks man I'd appreciate it

Stupid question but is this cedar?
My fascia boards have rotted and I figured I would replace them with the same wood that's on my header.

>>2752488
This looks like crap because I don't have it installed, moved my workshop, but you can see how I added angle iron to the underside of the table and simply bolted through to the rails. Used birch ply.

>>2752488
This is the top pic, notice I am using a predrilled Kleg router base, a great system, pricey though, but will save you a lot of pain. I've made my own but it was not worth all the work.

Does anyone have any advice on using a circular saw? My career is in programming and I am terrified of having an accident with the circular saw even though I have seen people in the construction field use this thing so recklessly without care. I have a Ryobi circular saw that I got in a Black Friday tool kit promotion (it came with a jigsaw, sawzall, impact driver, drill, and an oscillating tool). I actually used the jigsaw and oscillating tool along with a hacksaw to cut some plywood to repair some flooring but it was a pain in the ass and the cuts weren't good. I figured I need to learn how to use this damn circular saw if I actually wanna be productive and start getting shit done around the house (I live in an old mobile home that needs new subfloor so I'll be cutting a lot of plywood).

>>2752840
I'm sure you will get a lot of responses to this, but this is what I have:
1. Wear safety gear, I wear hearing protection all the time, you will lose your hearing otherwise. Goggles may save your eyesight some day.
2. Do not torque the blade or you will get kickback you cannot control, plan your cut, use both hands.
3. Stay out of the line of fire. I am very conscious of this one, if the saw kicks back will I be in the way?
4. Keep people away. Got kids around, tell them to stand far away and watch
5. If you are using the say a lot it will require some arm strength, you can develop that through work or do some curls, I do that anyway.
6. Ensure you are not cutting your sawhorse in half, be aware of your cutting surface, watch for embedded nails in old wood.
7. Blades are cheap, replace blades often and have several types around.
8. some guys are great at this, but if I am making a long cut (plywood for example), I clamp on a straight edge and I only set the amount of blade I need.

>>2752805
Is that local timber? What part of the world are you in, that will limit the choices. Hard to tell, it could be cedar or one of the pines.

>>2752859
SE Texas, when it was freshly washed it looked like this

>>2752883
could be southern yellow pine, but I would check locally, wander into a wood supplier and you will find it.

>>2752858
Thank you very much anon, all very solid advice that I will use soon when I do attempt this!

>>2752811
>>2752813
I see, thank you. Does this allow you to piggyback on the alignment of the table saw fence?

>>2752883
You'll never get the same patina or coloration no matter the wood you use. Have you considered replacing the whole thing?

>>2752916
I could add get a good quality saw and keep it in a storage box with the extra blades and tools. I build these for all my tools, keeps them safe and easy to find, also a fun project.

>>2752963
Yes, and that is a major reason for adding it to an extension table. You get the mass of the saw so great stability you will need this if you are pushing a lot of wood through. I also clamp a second fence to the main fence with an attachment for a vacuum hose. For some uses you need to only expose part of the bit so having a second 'false' fence gives you that option. I will assemble and post a pic.

>>2752840
Had the same about a year ago. Put the blade at zero depth first so that you can freely move the tool along the cut line or guide rail or whatever. Do a ‘dry cut’ and see if the rail moves and more importantly check your posture and hands while you do so. If you have to take your hand off the tool at any point along the cut (to eg hold the material still move something out of the way), then re-plan it. If you have to lean in too much, or stand on one foot, or move yourself to the other side of the saw, then re-plan as well. Once the blade spins all you want to be doing is move the saw along the cut line with both hands. Use a Peltor, imo earbuds, even the custom made ones don’t do shit

And don’t grab boards by the cut line, there may be splinters

>>2752221
That went pretty well

>>2753030
Fantastic advice. I forgot to add to my list to never put your saw on the ground (or any tool) I have a storage box and if I have to put it down I use a piece of scrap wood. Buy good tools and take care of them and they will reward you with many years of service. You don't need the most expensive, my Porter Cable is perfect balance between cost and quality.

>>2753032
Looks nice, how did you cut it in the end?

>>2753067
I circled it all the way with the circular saw, removed the remaining center with a hand saw and then hand planes it to get it smooth. It shows some dark spots from previous mold which is a bummer but it will just be a monitor stand anyway.

Also is anyone good at identifying wood? I tried Google for a bunch of local tree species + picture of the wood and it looks most like ash to me and we have a lot of ash here but I’m still not sure

How do you deal with finishing end grain? Inevitably it'll be darker than face/edge grain. I know the best answer is to avoid exposed end grain, but sometimes you can't help it.

>>2752858
>I only set the amount of blade I need.

Do not ignore this advice
Having your blade depth only as far down as you need to cut through the piece means there is the minimum possible surface area of the broad side of blade sliding past the wood.
It will minimize power used and wear on the blade and motor. It will minimize friction burning on the wood. It will minimize kickback. It will make it easier to push the saw forward since you're not fighting the wood friction. It will minimize the damage if you cut something on the other side of the workpiece.

I bought a Norris no.8 rebate plane

>>2753316
Are you one of those hand tool folks?

>>2753181
It is possible. First determine the type of wood, is it ring porous, semi-ring porous, or non-porous. Red Oak is ring porous, for example, you will have a lot of filling to do. In that case get a matching color filler and fill, sand, start adding coats of finish, sand between. For non-porous like maple simple add a sealer coat and start layering on your finish, won't take long. I use an oil based varnish, sometimes seal first with shellac.

>>2753318
I can cut the same joint with 7 other planes. But I also own a bandsaw.

>>2752965
Those boards are fine, it's the facia along the sides of it that are bad and they are also not the same wood anyway, figured id match it since I'm replacing those.

How would I know how much weight something I built can support? I've been watching tutorials on how to make a desk top. It seems simple enough: just drill some pocket holes into a bunch of boards, glue and screw them together, sand and finish. But once you get this desk top on legs, how much weight will it support without buckling/breaking? What if it's really wide, like 80" would I need vertical support in the middle or could I still get away with just four legs? I'm a desk job faggot who has never built anything before, sorry if this question is retarded.

>>2753413
Pile weights on it until it breaks, then build a second one and never put more than that amount of weight on it

>>2753413
>just drill some pocket holes into a bunch of boards, glue and screw them together, sand and finish
Please no.

>>2753446
Right on, that's the Calvin and Hobbs solution.

>>2753413
Build a typical desk and use it for its intended use and you will be fine. Don't put a drill press on a desk intended for writing, don't build a drill press stand as a writing table. There are so many factors that go into determining the failure point. Stick to typical designs. Don't use pocket screws to join the top.