/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2729848
First time poster long time caller here. These are my first two prints with my Sovol SV06 Plus with eSun PLA+
I wanted to level the bed and get the settings dialed in without tweaks to see where I'm at. The boat without roof lost adhesion at that point. I tried a couple of other prints just to see and they also all lost adhesion about the same place. I tweaked a few settings but nothing too fancy and now we look better.
How do they look quality-wise? What are some retard-proof ways of making them better?

Why can't I get my P1S to give me nice shiny finishes on plastic like my ender 3 did?
Same print speed, same temp. Its still more matt

>>2729940
try running it faster, i think that helps give it more of a shiny finish

>>2729941
High speed makes it very matte

>>2729848
What the fuck bros, 2 hours into a 17 hour print and it loses adhesion and turns into a jiggaboo head. What gives?
PLA+, 210 nozzle, 60 bed. I use a glue stick as well.

>>2729944
>I use a glue stick as well
Don't do that with PLA.

>>2729890
They look pretty good. You should be able to improve the shape of those corners using linear advance, maybe slapping an IMU on it and doing the acceleration vibration compensation thing would be good too.

>>2729992
What's the alternative?
I use a hotbed so it usually sticks but sometimes... no bueno

>>2729941
>>2729943
other way around, run it slower. from what I can tell, the bambus hotend doesnt keep up at high speeds.

Should i print ABS/ASA without cooling at all?
Even at bridges?
It's set at 15% for bridges and it still shows in my voron parts because the fucking fan isn't spinning down fast enough.

>>2730069
Yeah it seems to be its weakness. I'm tempted to get the E3D hot end but £72 is a lot of money for a nozzle

>>2730095
amazon/alibaba one that can take the cht clone nozzles

>>2730064
Use a textured PEI plate, PLA sticks to it like there is no tomorrow.

Gentlemen, my P1P is giving off this ungodly sound: (no vid cause its currently printing under a cardboard box)
https://voca.ro/147K1H5Xwr9t
Print still looks good, so im letting it finish my print, but man, this does not sound right, hope its not my steppers giving up.

>>2730104
Forgot to ask, but any idea what could it be?

>>2730096
One of the reasons I got the P1S is so I don't have to swap nozzles while the printer is hot as I hated doing it with my Ender 3. Unless they are now selling fully assembled drop in CHT replacements I'm tempted to just go with the E3D one
I'd be more open to the E3D one if it came with the fucking heater cartridge etc like the £30 bambu ones do. I'd happily pay £30 for an entire assembly if it means I can swap between nozzle sizes with minimal effort

Am I blind or can I not skip parts in orcaslicer? Do I really have to use the bambu handy app to do that?

>>2730104
In the final layers it got even worse, this was a ~1000 layer print with 0.2 layer height. The object was stable and I could only move it after the plate cooled down, the whole thing kept buzzin even after it finished the print, only a power down fixed it. Then it proceeded to print fine without any problem.
Man, I dont know what the fuck happened, but its either something that happens at a certain height, or it magically fixed itself...
https://voca.ro/1lfFOl5MbyS9
Whatever it was, it literally fucked up my last ~10 layers... Man... Im going to sleep...
I bet its a vengeful spirit...

>>2730116
>skip parts
what did he mean by this? in orca objects you can change the object type to not print. not sure about hot delete once sliced.

>>2729848
Bought Ender 3 v3 SE as the first printer and so far it's exceeded the expectations, however after a while I've started running into issues.

Most importantly, lately there's been trouble getting the first layer down right. The filament doesn't always stick, sometimes it peels off or even curls off the plate, ruining the print.
Before it even gets to printing the model itself the nozzle will often start dragging the skirt after changing direction. One corner of the plate seems to be particularly prone to this issue, curls like crazy.

My guesses so far are:
>Z axis offset
There's little documentation online on E3v3se, whereas E3v2 doesn't have auto bed leveling, so it's not explained whether I have to adjust Z axis offset myself. It's currently set at -2.53mm, idk why. Planning on changing it to -2.5 and seeing if it does anything. Does increasing the value lower or raise the nozzle? Not explained.
>dirty plate
Been cleaning it with moist and dry tissues. Should maybe look into cleaning solutions. Not too keen on using stick glue for it, there has to be a better way.
>nozzle wearing out or dirty?
That soon? Idk. I wipe it with tissues after print just in case.
Another thing I've tried is reduce the speed of 1st layer from 20 to 5mm/s, it's mildly better maybe.

Also been noticing that when the nozzle skips from one area to another it will often leave a bit of a lump behind. Maybe it's something to do with retracting length which I sometimes change from 5 to 3 in the generic pla profile in Prusa. I think it reduced the amount of popping followed by a couple mm's of underextrusion that some initial prints had. Now it strings more however?
Is it fine that in printer settings the parameter for "travel lift height" is set to 0 mm? should I maybe raise it?

Printing PLA at 225/65 and PETG at 235/80.

Next thing I'm going to create a model that will make the printer squeeze a single layer of filament over the entire working area to see if it's uniform.

what's the build plate material on that printer? moist tissues is probably your issue, you need a suitable degreaser really. tissue is also probably leaving tiny fibres behind.

>>2730185
>Next thing I'm going to create a model that will make the printer squeeze a single layer of filament over the entire working area to see if it's uniform.
why tho

>>2730110
Yes the nozzles are removable, but you don't need to constantly swap them unless you want to constantly change size or keep clogging them, you can just do it once it be done with it. or just crank the fuck out of it on the bench and then it shouldn't have a problem staying tight once heated. could even solder it if you really wanted to Go that far.

>>2730192
>just crank the fuck out of it on the bench and then it shouldn't have a problem staying tight once heated.
fucking retard. tighten finger tight then heat and snug while hot. you sound like my dad torquing the fuck out of everything until it's starts stripping.

>>2730194
my dad is a stripper too

>>2730194
>waaah I don't want to hot torque nozzles
>You're retarded, you're supposed to hot torque the nozzle
Make up your mind fuckwit

>>2730191
To help troubleshoot the horrific adhesion problems?

>>2730200
how does that work? I mean say you find a place where your print is super thin and another where it de-laminates. what then?

>>2730203
Then I'll have a vector to go on? If the lines show that the nozzle is squishing the filament or conversely doesn't even get it to touch the ground, then the bed calibration would have to be adjusted manually.
That's not to mention running it a few times to get confirmation it's not a fluke, and whether there's more problematic areas like that.
If all else fails, it's possible to place the prints on the parts of the bed that behave normally.

>>2730211
What you're describing is what a mesh validation pattern is intended to help do, fine tuning the bed leveling mesh to achieve perfect first layers.

>>2730218
I must've slept through that class at the 3d printer university.

>>2730219
Marlin has extensive documentation. https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html

So I got the A1 from Bambu... it creates these random splits. Idk how to fix it.

>>2730220
Thank you for the link, the information is indeed detailed. I must however take a different path for now until I get more experience because flashing a 3rd party firmware on a brand new printer model not a week after having printed my first benchy is a bit excessive - and without Marlin flashed I can't really G28 my M111 S247 so the rest of the docs won't be of much use - besides in the end it all still boils down to fidgeting with the calibration result arrays. I will however keep searching for other not-so-drastic solutions.

>>2730230
I picked this right off the printer and it just came apart. Idk how the print stayed together during the print.

>>2729890

I wrote a long form answer but it was too long. Here's a bullet point summary.

- Flag pole at the back is very bad. No idea why that's happened, maybe wet or shit filament. Esun is not a good brand. Same problem is likely causing the bad wall on second print.
- You are over extruding which is why the boat deck has a funny texture but the boat roof and walls do not.
- Line down the side of the boat is caused by Z wobble on the shitty chinese printer you've bought. It has no structural significance but does look bad. It is inherent to lead screw printers and can be fixed with bimetallic couplers but don't bother just buy a voron or ratrig.
- Overhang on the door looks a little bad, try to reduce the extrusion temps 5 degrees.
- Maybe dry the filament in the oven at 50-60C for 6-12 hours.

>>2730232
And then sometimes it gets random issues where it doesnt print low enough onto the bed causing adhesion issues. I just don't get how the a1 is this bad.

>>2730232
>it just works
bambufags btfo

>>2730233
>Line down the side of the boat
Is a Benchy hull line an is not caused by Z-wobble, it's caused by the drastic change in flow rate compared to the previous layer. It's called the Benchy Hull Line, it's known and well documented.

>>2730238
Forgot Pic

First multi color on my a1 printed perfectly but then after that it went downhill.

>>2730241
I mean it actuates perfectly. No stringing or anything on this print. But after this first print, it's like the printer went full retard.

>>2730185
>sometimes it peels off or even curls off the plate
Buy a PEI sheet, as long as you DO NOT use ABS and DO NOT use acetone to clean it you will never have adhesion problems again.
In the mean time, dry your filament or use copious amounts of glue stick. If you have a glass bed you're 10 years behind the curve.
Also buy some isopropyl alcohol and make damn sure it's as close to 100% as you can get and does NOT contain castor oil.
If you have a glass bed, use a degreaser like washing up liquid on there. Filament does not like sticking to greasy finger marks. Don't worry so much about using the tissue, not using a degreaser is your main issue. Water is a solvent but does have limitations.

>>2730230
>>2730232
>>2730234
what filament type and brand?
is it the same height every time?
is this on only one print or have you tried it multiple times? with the same or different g-code?
does it happen with different models or just one?
any funny noises or actions you noticed while it's printing near the offending area?
could have a bug or flaw in the ootb firmware, have you updated?

>>2730234
as far as i understand, bambu are just "send it back if it doesn't work" products. could be some funny g-code though.

>>2730230
>>2730232
This is what you get for buying chinese.
It is either shitty chinese filament causing your problem or the shitty chinese hot end is getting clogged by your shitty chinese filament.
You also have appalling ringing on the holes and it looks like you have a brim on the first layer (or you didn't level it correctly)
Moral of the story is don't buy chinese

>>2730241
wtf this must be a z wobble line that is atrocious. You cannot expect precision from the land of tiny eyes. I hope you didn't spend more than £200 on this printer lol.
I'm sure >>2730240 will come out and say it's 'inherent to the design'

>>2730245
Pla. Came with the bambu printer. I do not recommend the a1 until they fix the software.

>>2730251
On poor quality filament you will get brittle spots which do not melt properly and temporarily clog the nozzle. Your extrusion stopped for 1 or 2 layers then resumed which is why your item fell apart.
Buy western filament. Spain makes a load of it and between siestas they're pretty good.

>>2730250
Yeah the a1 seems to have lots if issues. This might be caused by the massive bed. They need to dial in the settings and slow down the jerkiness as the bed moves forward and backwards. On my prusa it used to do this. A software update fixed it.

>>2730253
I'm just going back to my enders and prusas. At least I can fix those. Sovol etc. i don't get why everyone loves bambu.

>>2730256
I think it's just yuppies.
3D printing is fine until something breaks then you're on your own so to get any long term success you really need to learn how the machines work. The best way to do that is with a DIY machine like a voron or ratrig.
The only excuse for not learning is being poor and if that's the case why buy a bambu

The pla warped when the raspberry pi heated the case up. Like it didn't even get above 65-70c and it's already warping lol. That being said it's not the printers fault. Just saying don't use pla for a rpi.

>>2730260
Amen brother. That's why I like my prusas. I built a voron as well. These companies come into the community with closed source garbage, flood it by selling them cheaply, giving YouTubers free printers to shill em, and it's only going to cause issues long term. I'm not trying to gatekeep but they're treating 3d printers like RV manufacturers did to RVing.

>>2730261
use PETG.

>>2730230
what filament brand?

>>2730261
I've used PLA for a raspberry pi for a long time.
Firstly, your pi should not be getting to 65C secondly, you've got a bad design and bad pla.
Unless your pi is for display purposes, it really should have a fan. On top of that, the design of that lid is really not suited to 3d printing. Of course it will warp, it's a thin sheet with holes in it. Those overhangs cause a lot of stress and there's no catch to hold the lid in place.
It's more of a design issue. I hope it wasn't you who designed this.

>>2730272
The pi5 gets quite warm.

>>2730233
Thanks for the detailed feedback anon. I really appreciate it.
Any suggestions on filament? I realize that's an INCREDIBLY broad question but what are some preferred manufacturers for PLA+, ABS, and others that aren't resin

>>2730272
Also it came with a fan on its heatsink. Where have you been? The pi5 can reach 80c and still be within spec.

>>2730276
my bad, I never even knew that thing existed
I'm still on the pi 4

>>2730269
Bambu pla. Didnt think that needed to be said. Sorry.

>>2730275
extrudr greentec pro prints like pla and has good temperature resistance.
It is also made of 'natural' 'biodegradable' materials so you can brag to your friends about saving the environment

https://www.extrudr.com/en/products/catalogue/?material=134
3d jakes sells it

>>2730276
that case doesn't seem to be designed for the pi 5's blower fan. it looks to be more designed for passive cooling for older ones

>>2730277
It runs at 3ghz comes stock at 2.4. It's really fast. I replaced my desktop with it. I run full fat kde. Cura and Prusa slicer. Freecad etc. bambu slicer doesnt run on it yet. But meh I'm sending the a1 back. I emailed them and they told me to box it up and they'll send me a refund. No questions asked. At least the customer service was halfway decent. It shouldnt be that bad out of the box.

>>2730279
not a fan of companies that don't like to clearly state what their stuff is actually made from

>>2730280
not to mention that there's literally no reason to open the case to look at the raspberry pi - besides cleaning out the fan. That begs the question of why a filter was not designed into this case but also solves the problem of having a door.
Bad design, remove the door replace it with a screw in shell -> warping problems eliminated.

>>2730280
It is. It's just that pla warpa under heat. I'll run it off with petg on a different printer. They're all busy printing voron parts at the moment though. I had such high hopes for the a1. I'm really let down because the p1s was such a great printer.

>>2730284
It was a test of the print in place hinge using multi color printing. It was not a strike against the a1 which in their defense printed the part perfectly. Outside of the z wobble. Needs a software update. I think a lot of whats happening can be solved via software. Jerk settings etc. flowrate. All seem that they need to be dialed in idk better but the printer acts like it knows better than I do and wont let me mess with the firmware.

>>2730283
it's a german company that makes the filament in spain. It's not going to contain asbestos or lead so you'll be fine.

>>2730279
As long as it'll print 2a parts without breaking were Gucci

>>2729944
Found out why the print failed. I noticed the bed would only move so far on the Y axis.
Now I need to find a replacement belt. Any guidance?

>>2730283
GreenTEC is, for lack of a better term, high end filament. They offer extensive documentation right there on the page where it's sold, far more than what you get from the majority of filament manufacturers.

>>2730296
Just put the belt back on. It just came loose. This is why I tell people to buy kit printers. Take it apart and put it back together. I love my sovol but it came all cattywompus and it was easier to just take it to pieces and put it together properly.

>>2730296
I have zero experience with the sovol but on the ender 3 you can just clamp the end of the belt in under the bed. The replacements are not closed loops. There's certainly a botch solution you can come up with in 10 minutes.

>>2730298
>>2730300
Sorry the picture doesn't make it more clear - the belt broke

>>2730302
For a break that looks like an exceptionally clean cut. Why don't you flip over the printer and show us a picture of where the belt connects to the bed. Maybe you'll see a little brass piece there too.

>>2730302
>>2730303
The chinks overcrimp them and the shear cleanly like that at the crimp, or they don't deburr the stamped Y-axis plate well enough and the edge cuts the belt cleanly. Seen it plenty with Ender 3 and CR-10 clones.

>>2730305
You can loosen the belt tensioner and make it longer. Recrimp it yourself. Do you have a second printer? You can print parts for it. Sovol printers are best if you have say a prusa and want a secondary printer but don't want to pay the prusa tax again. But I wouldnt want it as my only printer.

>>2730303
>>2730305
Wtf am I even looking at

>>2730310
https://youtu.be/3zIEhL4cXdI?t=6

>>2730312
Honestly, I kind of like it. Avoids crimps, keeps the belts spaced away from the Y-Axis carriage, seems easy to work with.

>>2730312
>>2730313
damn well now that makes sense. I wonder why one end fell off then?

>>2730312
They didn't even have the budget to add one of those soulless corporate soundtracks. I hate the chinese.

>>2730316
Shoulda bought a prusa.

>>2730314
It was probably not inserted all the way, and your belt was too loose. That's just a guess. Slip it in, tension your belt, be on your way. Use a frequency analyzer or guitar tuning app on your phone to tighten belts like a pro.
You can even just use Prusa's website from your phone: https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/
If you've got an SV06, select the Prusa Mk3, it's close enough.

At least everything fits. I should have bought the prusa.

>>2730326
Doesn't quite line up but good enough I guess.

FreeCAD is beginning to wind me up and I don't fancy a 360 subscription (even if it's "free"). Are there any pirate options?

>>2730353
Hey buddy, how is the autodesk CEO going to buy his third house if you don't buy a subscription? Did you think of that?
I implore you not to download qBittorrent and search up autodesk. Please don't download the several options available. Thank you.

>>2730356
>piracy
Do people really? Disgusting. AutoCAD is only $2,000/year, or $245/month if you're too poor to buy a year up front. What kind of adult can't afford a real AutoCAD license for designing their own Funko Pop displays and Dilophosaurus shower heads?

>>2730171
As in skip a part while its still printing. I noticed I forgot to support part of a print so I was trying to skip that part from printing rather than cancel the entire print and start again
Seems like I can only do it from bambu handy as I couldn't find the option in OrcaSlicer

>3d print general
>not a single printed gun

>>2730374
They're against board rules. I've done it a few times and always eat a ban for it.

>>2730374
go back to /k/

>>2730376
that's so gay it explains this faggot's existence >>2730380

>>2730382
This is the board for DIY not weapons. They talk about 3D printed weapons on /k/

>>2730384
stop repeating yourself you fucking autist

>>2730393
Not him but you should be banned. Guns are strictly against the rules here. Get the fuck out!

>>2730393
go back to /k/

>>2730396
>rules

>>2730393
we don't talk about 3d printed guns because honestly, this isn't a thread for things MADE on printers, its about the printers themselves, 90% of posts are about tuning, or buying printers, very little about post processing, or displaying the results.
add onto that the bans for posting about making weapons at all on /diy/ and your best bet for talking about 3d printed guns is literally to go to /k/ and post in their thread about 3d printed guns >>>60421146
go back to /k/

>>2730406
>>>/k/60421146
ill remember cross board linking one of these days

>>2730393
>stop repeating yourself
Of course Anon repeats himself, you are mentally retarded to understand what he said.

>>2730406
The emasculated sissy reddit-vibes you're putting out makes me sick. Disgusting.

This place is so cucked, watch me get banned for posting fireworks because there's a printed glock frame shaped holder for it.

Estrogen was a mistake.

>>2730437
What does this post have to do with 3D printing?

>>2730460
It's 3D-printed

>>2730437
for someone reddit-typing, you sure do complain about reddit a lot.

>>2730477
What the fuck is reddit-typing?

You can print whatever the fuck you want, thou I think 3d printing for guns is good only for finishing, like handles, grip plates, etc. Ol good metal saw and powertools, make you lot more good in making gun, than finicky, brittle and long to make 3d printed guns. it's doable, but not really practical, at least until things are in the state they are now with FDM. You can make boomstick in no time, with 30$ worth power tools and crap you found in industrial junk bin. So, yeah, you can print it, have no problem with you doing so, not really practical if you need cheap, sturdy and quick to make gun. Simple as that. Still interesting if someone try to do so. It's interesting from enginering point, you can really push your enginering skills and understanding of material to the limit. Firearms are quite extreme tools, and you need keep in mind extreme forces they operate under. So seeing it's done and knowing how it's done, you can have some enginering ideas how to make sturdier designs of anything what works under extreme conditions, also it gives insights on what particular material can and can't do. It just not really practical and not a substitude for traditional DIY weapons. Also nogunz retards get jumpy on the issue, while they forgot, any bum can sharpen stick with the rock and stab them to get those tasty two dollar for chaepest chink fentanyl they could obtain, lol. This is why gunz so scary, because they "kill people". In teality, people kill other people and tools for that has wide selection, firearms being neglible portion of it. So this hysteria abount no talking about making gunz, go to /k, is stupid to boot.

PS

Don't care either if someone print some monster dildo out of PLA, on 10x10cm plate, glue it from parts, and shove up their ass. Problaly break inside rupturing their intrails, but hey, you tried, now we know it's a bad idea, good job, it was educational, lol. DIY community have hundrets of storries like this, you know. And I'm fine with another one.

3d printed guns are safe affordable and easy!

>>2730570
That's been my experience.

>>2729848
Been working on GPU ducts. V1 has issues with airflow, turbulance, and general poor tolerances

Picrel

>>2730574
Yeah, right. Sure thing kid. And keep feeding monster under your bed.

>>2730578
Here's V2, I added guides to help maintain a laminar flow, the veins for forcing air downwards aren't designed into the model yet.

Anyone see some obvious outstanding issues? While it's not modeled in on my reference model, the blower fan I have only produces airflow on one side, while the other is blocked off.

>>2730541
at 12 am one night after eating some special thjings i designed and printed a dildo mold and filled it with silicone... if only i made sure it didnt stick to the mold

printer keeps making these blobs and stopping ontop of them. what is causing this i have leveled my bed and changed temps several times, PLA

>>2730600
Do you have good belt tension? Might be slipping

no its pretty tuned up. im not sure what happens at the moment because i dont have eyes on it. i look away for 5 minutes and all of the sudden nothing is moving and there is a glob

>>2730618
>>2730611
fuck sorry

>>2730578
>>2730581
I’m having a hard time working out how this actually fits on a GPU, is this to replace the existing shroud since it’s blocked on the side where the fan normally is?

>>2730618
>all of the sudden nothing is moving and there is a glob
like the printer pauses for a second, or completely stops and doesn't move again?

>>2730623
the latter

>>2730624
what's the machine and setup and how often is it?
my ender will sometimes just lock up mid print when printing from the tft35 for no discernable reason. granted this is extremely rare, probably 1 in 300+ jobs, but still annoying.

>>2730622
Pretty much, it's for a sleeper SFF build and it more or less just bolts on to the existing mounting points on the GPU.

>>2729848
Never printed before, but I happen to know I'm getting some size of Anycubic resin printer and a wash station for Yule. What do I need to do to my sculpt to make it not fuck up when I go to print it? Sawing the arms and legs off to print off-body, I assume. Are the cracks going to be too fine to work? Etc.

>>2730657
>>>/tg/3dpg

>>2730662
Thanks, but if anyone on here still has first-pass advice, I'd love to have it.

>>2730665
those teeth are going to be a cunt to print, but the rest SHOULD be fine.

>>2730581
>Anyone see some obvious outstanding issues?
That 180 degree turn will rape your airflow, thats some insane resistance. Did you made any flow simulations with it?

>>2730234
One way to cheat a bit is apply this glue stick my bro recommended that works well for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BVG2K1BQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd stil work on the underlying issue but whatever works, works.

>>2729848
How autistic do I need to be about leaving filament out on the printer over a few days? Do I really need to buy a dehydrator?

are there any decent .svg groups on telegram?

looking for pmag stuff.

>>2730374
working on this right now

>>2730680
Unless the room is exceptionally humid, a few days won't be too bad for PLA, PETG might get noticably worse. If you've got an oven that can go as low as 50c then use that to dry it out and just keep it in a sealed box.

>>2730680
As long as you aren't living under the sea even a few months with PLA should be no issue.

>>2730692
PLA I buy from Amazon always needs drying out. They must store it in a fucking lake or something, and those vacuum sealed bags do little. Only the stuff that comes in foil are dry enough to print.

>>2730680
even wet filament prints mostly fine apart from a poor surface finish and the occasional crackling noises from the nozzle.
Apart from TPU.... that will just clog all the time.
If you're still printing on a glass bed like an ape you may also get adhesion problems but with PEI you will be fine.

>>2730693
Filament is literally cooled in jets of water after it's extruded from plastic pellets. A few silica beads are not going to do much unless it was dried before being bagged. Something i don't expect the Chinese will have done between eating dogs and smoking asbestos cigarettes.

>>2730766
>>2730765
underwater 3D printing when

>>2730768
not possible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY7lJexBUZQ

I keep having print in place toys fail despite reading PEI beds are the best for this stuff. Can I use gluestick on a PEI bed as a last resort? Or should I just use a raft?

>>2730825
get some alcohol and clean the PEI sheet.
Do not under any circumstances use acetone if you have a powder coated PEI sheet. Acetone will melt and degrade the PEI but will do a good job cleaning it.
Gluestick is a bit silly on PEI, I wouldn't bother.
You can use water with some washing up liquid to clean the PEI or maybe even vodka if you've got some filtered stuff.
If you cannot be bothered to do any of that, just but a 20mm brim on everything, increase the temperature for the first layer by 10C and lower the speed for the first layer by 50%.

>>2730766
Never had issues with the esun stuff.

>>2730865
I had washed it the day before. Done two prints I left to cool and lifted off. Zero skin contract. I'll clean it again next time then try again. It annoyingly failed near the last layers
Maybe even just slow down print speed overall in case its the high speed at higher layers that's causing bits to slide

>>2730896
is it a smooth sheet or does it have texture?
You really want the one with texture for PLA

What the fuck is this goddamn bullshit?!?

>>2730904
textured
>>2730907
Imagine not having an adbolcker

>>2730908
That's not the point. Google needs to be fined by the eu over this.

>>2730909
>Google
anon it's just bambulab bidding against prusa on google ads, i.e. they pay to show you an ad every time you search for prusa printers, also
>using google
use searx

>>2730911
Absolutely fine if you're in the United States. This breaks european law.

>Online targeted advertising is unfair if it is (i) contrary to the requirements of professional diligence or (ii) it materially distorts or is likely to materially distort the economic behavior of the average consumer, or of the average member of the group when a commercial practice is directed to a particular group of consumers, with regard to the product.

>>2730912
You can't advertise another product when searching by name for a product. The eu is really strong on this. I'm about to submit this for review.

>>2730909
Yes of all the top tier jewery Google has engaged in over the years that has never been inquired or fined or even reported on, they deserve to be fined because they polluted your search for le beard man printer. what a simp lmao.
>inb4 SSSSHHHHIIIILLLL!!!!!!11!!

>>2730916
Don't care until it affects my life.

>>2730920
and being served an ad for a competing product, that given your attitude you would clearly never even consider buying, affects your life so greatly you need to whine about it on the internet and call the government to give them a spanking? lmao.

>>2730925
Yes. Welcome to the conversation. You're not allowed to advertise a competing product when searching a product directly by name.

>>2730928
>near death experience when you get an ad for a competing product
>perfectly fine when your children get ads for puberty blockers and dildos and gay furry bdsm orgies when searching for Minecraft let's plays, because it's not a competing product
typical yurocuck lmao

>>2730929
There's an easy solution to this. Don't have kids. You should spend your money on 3d printers instead of kids anon.

>>2730962
>not 3d printing kids
fuckin amateur hour in here

>>2730909
>>2730912
>>2730913
>eu
>eu
>eu
>>2730907
>**us**.store.bambulab.com
hey look it's the bambu schitzo, back again to shit up this thread. funny how he himself said advertising like this is legal in the usa, but is larping as a european so he can larp about trying to get the eu to issue a fine for something 3500 miles outside of their jurisdiction. dude is a like a stalker ex girlfriend that keeps calling the police trying to get the boyfriend arrested, it's kind of unsettling.
>but maybe that's the just default website
nope, notice how there's a eu.store and a global page too. obviously had to search for it since I'm an ameranon, but there is no reason an actual euro wouldn't get the eu link. plus trying to open the link automatically redirects me to the us.store website, so even if he wanted to put a little more effort into it to try to fake it he wouldn't be able to.
>inb4 he's back in an hour after buying a vpn just to take a screenshot with the EU store address as """proof"""

Ah yes, the EU that forced every website to have popups telling you about a browser feature that was around since the 90s and has no effect on whether that feature is enabled or not?

Could overextrusion be the cause of my prints looking like shit. At first I thought it was just that I was printing too fast but I turned changed my wall settings to outer then inner and the print quality is essentially perfect.

>>2729848
I have been having a hell of a time with trying to get advice on this one and have spent the last several days reading many many opinions. is 70C enough of a temperature to dry PAHT-CF? Thus far, the Eibos and FixDry dryers I'm looking at only go up to 70.

>>2731036
Yes. Hotter is better, 80C is recommended by some manufacturers, but 70C is enough.

speaking of drying filament. how bad of an idea is it to use an oven you also plan on baking things in? not immediately after, but like 1-3 days after drying filament in it. will stuff taste like plastic? will it give me super-aids-cancer?

>>2731047
I have seen some people say they get away with 70C for a couple of days. Others say that it's not enough and then recommend shit like a toaster oven. I don't intend on going the toaster oven route.

>>2731049
I wouldn't put plastic in my oven that I use to cook food in it. The plastic itself would probably™ not evaporate, put the plasticiser mixed in could:
https://sci-hub.se/10.1038/s41529-019-0080-7
I dont know what health related issues those might do, try it and report back if yer weiner got longer from it.

>>2731056
>non-zero chance of getting super-cancer-aids
sounds like I'll just get a drybox and have it act as filament supply for the printer as well then. thanks for the whitepaper

>>2731047
Replying to you again anon, I may just drop the money on one of those printdrypros. 85 C for 48 hours.

The creality k1 printed a lego brick very convincingly. I'm currently printing another as a test. If it works I'll print way more.

>>2731071
Just use pla. You never have to dry pla.

>>2730997
Couple things.
1) the poster isn't me
2) even when a company gets sued here in eu courts, it has a ripple effect that tends to help everyone, even you yanks
Now fuck off.

>>2731036
Just use CF-PLA instead. It's the same result and no drying bullshit.

>>2731090
Almost perfect. It just falls apart but holy cow I've never had a printer print this precisely! The a1 just pukes itself. Sent it back today. I'll be building the prusa mk4 tomorrow. This is proof that it wasn't the filament that the a1 has software issues. Let's hope Bambu fixes them for everyone's sake.

>>2731100
Just want to add that the mk3s/+ never printed this precisely without modding. Way to go creality!

>>2731101
This is no mods, just out of the box, updates applied, sliced using their slicer, and printed. I'm very impressed with the k1. I wonder if the p1p/s can print lego like this! Anyone have a p1p and some excess pla want to print 2 legos and see if they stick together?
https://printablebricks.com/

>>2729289
You can achieve similar result by printing on a DVD that had his aluminium layer removed.

>>2731104
What does this have to do with printing Lego?

>>2731106
Nothing to do about Lego. Maybe if you could print a block on it's side.

>>2731109
I just want a comparison and I only ever owned the a1 and creality printers and mk3s. I'd like to see the p1 s/p print a lego.

>>2731117
I do want to iterate on this point. Bambu are sending me ANOTHER a1. I thought they'd refund my money but instead they're replacing the defective unit, so I'll eat my words and report back in a week or so when it arrives if it turns out that I simply had a bum unit.

>>2731118
I will also give credit where it's due, they are a lot better to work with over creality. Closer to prusa's customer service. They asked me what was wrong. I simply told them that layer adhesion was shit despite their filament working better on creality printers. Didn't seem to matter what filament I fed through it, layers just aren't adhering. They said
>box it up, send it back, here's a tracking slip
So I did as instructed. I just got an email stating that they're replacing the unit. I'm surprised they're replacing it so quickly.
>it should just work, it shouldn't be doing that and we would like to look the unit over. We're sorry for the inconvenience.
I tried to reflash the firmware but they don't let you do that for some reason. I also hate that you have to use their slicer and their bullshit cloud app. Praise be where it's due, the prints that did come out, looked amazing, but why all the lockdown secrecy? They also sent, in the week I owned it, 232gb of data to bambulabs.cn. I don't get why they send so much data.

>>2731103
Fuck Lego for ruining everything.
We used to be able to use the official Lego software to develop models, create parts lists and assembly instructions, then turn that model info directly into plates of printable bricks separated by color. You could find official Lego sets you wanted, pull them up in the program, export, and boom you've got a copy of an official set ready to print.
I don't blame them for putting a stop to it, but it still hurts. I wonder if it's still possible to grab old copies of everything? Don't know.

>>2731122
Yes there's a repository of it via torrent. I'm not allowed to post it here. But if you have half a brain, it's easy enough to find. Lego should have just let us continue having fun. I stopped buying their kits after that. I have hundreds of thousands of dollars invested into Lego. They lost a customer for life. I'm still sore about it.

>>2731122
But that site, those stl files, are from the program itself.

I'm designing a snap-on interchangeable label sort of thing for a knob which I'm also printing. I'm thinking of something like pic related where two legs are slid over the sides of the knob until a tooth in each leg meets a groove in each side of the knob.
Because I need to do the face of the snap-on label in two colors with a one-nozzle printer, the face needs to be touching the bed, which unfortunately means the layers will end up being perpendicular to the direction the legs will flex. However, the legs should only need to flex slightly when snapping on, since the piece doesn't require any holding power beyond "doesn't fall off under its own weight/is not easily brushed off by a hand accidentally."

Because of the knob's shape I COULD, but don't necessarily have to, curve the sides of this snap-on label inward as per pic related.
My question is: when dealing with stress perpendicular to the layer lines of a relatively thin piece, which shape would better resist snapping while still retaining the ability to slightly flex? A flat bar, or a very shallow U shape?

>>2731129
Of course I forgot the pic.

>>2731129
I just watched a yt video on 3d printing holes. You want a spiral of spikes that's smaller than the peg. Then twist with it on and it'll grip. Give me a second and I'll find it.

>>2731129
>>2731131
>>2731132
https://youtu.be/Bd7Yyn61XWQ
I'm doing the same thing. Good luck friend.

>>2731132
>>2731133
That's very neat and if nothing else I'm sure I could make use of that design in the future, but the reason I went with this design is that if I did use a peg (I can't tell if you misunderstood or not, but I'm not currently using a peg-in-hole design. What I'm going for currently is more like a square U/table with two wide legs that fit over the exterior of the knob) the peg would need to be flush with the face when inserted, easily removable, and will have text printed on its rather small face which means no screwdriver grooves.
Again, very cool, but I'm not sure it fits my current use case.

>>2731137
The issue is what you're saying will snap.
https://youtu.be/wl6TDwBqkgs
Here's a video explaining how to do it but anon, it's a bad design. Not that your idea is bad. Just print long ways and flat.

>>2731137
But do understand that it'll deform after some light use.

>>2731139
>Just print long ways and flat
I would if I could, but as I said, I need to bake the writing into the face of the label in a different color and all I've got is a single-nozzle Ender 3, which means whether I do the color change at the beginning or end, the face needs to be parallel to the bed which unfortunately means the legs get the layer lines.
I realize that it's not a good design, but I can't think of anything else that fits all the criteria with the tools I have.
I'm basically just relying on the fact that this part doesn't need to hold any amount of weight and thus the limbs should hardly need to flex to snap on/off because the teeth can be very small, but I'll test it and see. If it fails, I suppose it will be back to the drawing board.

Although, none of this answers the original question: Would a shallow U-shape bar be less likely to break along its layer lines than a flat bar when flexing?

>>2731133
>>2731146
Wait, maybe nevermind. I just realized that the spoke-type hole should grip a peg even if it's not a PERFECT cylinder.
I can chop the sides off a circle and make a groove so that you can get underneath it with a screwdriver or other small tool and pop it out from below, while leaving the face of the plug unmarred. I think this might actually work perfectly.

>>2731148
>spoke-type
Well, fin-type rather. The gear/cog-shaped one is more "spoke" like.

>>2731148
It's amazing when you listen to people. Also print the letters seperately and glue them in with super glue. A little goes a long way.

Wjat does xi pingpong have to do with 3d printing?

>>2731169
They want cameras in every household and mics. They're selling 3d printers with these things built in.

Printing dungeons and dragons dice set with 0.1mm layer height and 100% infill. I'll let you know how they roll after my game tomorrow. I love 3D printing. If I need something I just print it. I don't even think about it anymore.

>>2731103
I printed a gear I got from this website and the dimensions were all wrong when it was loaded into the slicer

I have a P1S but its currently busy and I need to go to work soon. I'll print a few off over the weekend and see if they fit

>>2730989
that's a great idea anon

>>2731090
Why? That cannot be cost efficient.

>>2731095
Isn't CF-PLA significantly weaker than PAHT-CF? Doesn't withstand the same temperatures?

>>2731186
I'm so impressed with this printer

>>2731236
No. PLA-CF is signifigantly stronger. It can take 190MPa vs PAHT-CF 125MPa. Pla-cf can do 89+/-4 kJm whereas PAHT-cf is like 57.5 kJm.

As far as heat is concerned paht-cf prints at 197c whereas pla-cf is 220c.

PAHT-CF is just worse in every measurement. More expensive. It also wears out nozzles faster. The only thing PAHT has going for it is... YouTube influencers pushing it? Everything about it is just worse by every measure.

>>2731280
Price is not always any indicator but then what makes PLA-CF 34.99 for a 1KG spool vs 94.99 for 1K of PAHT-CF and 79.99 for PA6-CF?

>>2731236
Let me put it to you in lamens terms.
PLA+ can stop a .22 calibur bullet
PLA-CF stopped a 180 grain shotgun buck shot.
PAHT-CF shattered on the .22 and anything bigger ... it wasn't even there?
It's such a failed filament choice.

>>2731281
Ah maybe the price is the reason to get it. But see >>2731283
PLA is superior.

>>2731281
PA6-CF is a significantly better filament though than pla and paht. It prints at like 300c though.

>>2731283
Keep in mind, I wouldnt use either as a bullet proof vest, the testing block was a 6x6" cube. Use safety with shooting plastics. They can and do explode violently.

Are there any issues with using CF blends for electronics enclosures?

>>2731289
Yes it's electrically conductive. You can ground to it. Just don't put anything up against it unless you want it touching as you would an aluminum case.

>>2731289
It also blocks wifi and acts like a faraday cage.

>>2731291
brb, gonna make some 5g blocking phone cases and sell them to morons

>>2731281
Sorry I misunderstood. Pla-cf is cheap and better in every significant measure than paht-cf.

>>2731292
Roflmao. Yeah there were videos on yt showing this. Just inside a hole where the 5g antenna is and holes where the lte bands are.

Does anyone know how to design parts that screw together in a way that prevents cross-threading? (or at least makes it easier to avoid

speaking of *-cf filament, why did glass fiber filament seemingly disappear, or at least become not nearly as popular as carbon fiber filament? is it because le carbon fiber or are there legitimate strength/cost/printability reasons behind it?

>>2731295
Taper your holes. Rather than a hole that's the right diameter to screw into, have it taper from a little larger at the opening town to a little narrower at the end. It'll make it easier to install screws, and help guide them in. It's especially effective with self-tapping screws intended for plastic.

So I'm trying to print pic rel, I've tried like 4 times already but each time it gets fucked up like that. I've been watching it while it was on that difficult layer and it seemed as if the nozzle caught the rib furthest to the right and crashed it into another rib. Is this caused by stability issues? (very tall, slim part)
If so what can I do to prevent it from happening? When I generate support it appears only on the most curved rib, how do I show the slicer I want to support it in the middle?

>>2731295
very tight tolerance (good luck on FDM)
only installable by hand so it can't be wrenched on with a tool (ie wing nut or round head)
built-in torque limiting feature if you're masochistic
blunt flat edge thread start with no taper on the lead in so it can't bite into the material
multi start threads (maybe idk)
what >>2731313 said

>>2731315
over extrusion and/or z steps too low I would guess. for support, it's been a while since I used cura but when you have advanced settings turn on, under the support tab, there's overhang support threshold or something like that, set that to a lower degree value and it will add support less steep overhangs. you may have to manually turn it on in the shown settings list, like I said it's been a while I can't remember.

>>2731315
also you can try out turning on z hopping for things like this, it'll add a couple more minutes to the print time as well as an increase in stringing especially when you print hot and doubly so for gooey filament like PETG, but it also helps to counteract (minor) over extrusion or understepping without having to pull your hair out printing 97,000 calibration cubes and having to keep changing E steps by .05 each iteration to try and perfect it.

>>2730482
Putting an extra line

Between your lines.
Like a fa...

>>2731328
Like a faggot?

>>2731328
>>2731329
We just call them Bambu owners here ;)

>>2731319
>>2731323
Edited the file a little, maybe it was clumped together too much. Anyways, tried to add support to this one as well by decreasing the support threshold but even when I set it to 0deg it still wanted to add it, weird shit. Anyways, I will see how that goes and go from there

>>2731411
Tried to do it but failes at the same exact spot around 30mm in Z. Printed calibration cube and it came out at 20.2 in the Z. Could this be causing nozzle to catch the print in its way since they are too tall relatively to gcode?

>>2731450
if you're printing on a bedslinger, it could be wobble from it being tall and thin. it may help if you rotate it 90deg.
another thing it could be is nozzle ooze catching the print while doing travel moves. try to space out the parts so they're not all in one line - so the nozzle doesn't move over another part while traveling from one to another.

>>2731451
Yea it's a bedslinger, as for the wobble... I've tried rotating it to reduce traveling in Y direction but it doesn't change much, still failes in the exact same place.
As for the second thing you mentioned, I thought about it as well, but I've turned the retraction on. Shouldn't that solve this issue?

Hey folks, i've got about $350 to spend and I want an FDM printer. What should I get? I've looked at the OP pastebin, and it looks pretty outdated, so I figured i'd ask here. I'm sure this has been asked a billion times, and I've done a bit of my own research, but I figured i'd see if I could get some good answers from people here.

>>2731452
having an oversized calibration cube means obviously the machine is moving further than it thinks it is, this would result in expanded layers not compressed layers, so it wouldn't have much of an effect on knocking your part over, in fact it would it make it less likely. though .2 it's just the height of a single layer which really isn't that much in the grand scheme imo. I can never get a perfect cube out of my ender no matter how many fucking hours I spend trying to get the steps just right so maybe I'm just biased. though the fact that it repeatably happens at about 30 mm tells me it's either a mechanical issue, or maybe just something fucky is getting sliced into the g code every time at that height.
do you notice if it breaks during a travel move where the nozzle is going to or away from that particular part, or if it's during printing of that particular part?
also it's still going to ooze a tiny little bit as reaction doesn't pull already molten filament out of the nozzle. why did you even have it off in the first place? I don't think it's wobble, Even though it's tall and thin it doesn't strike me as something that's going to wobble significantly unless you're going for full retard speeds for some reason.

>>2731454
ender 3 v3 se or ke
could have also gotten a k1 for 300 or 400 bucks people said on Black Friday
a lot of people like sovol, either the SVO6 or 7 but I could have swore for some reason people didn't like the 7 as much as the 6 so someone else will have to chime in
there's also the a1 and a1 mini, though there was the Anon further up who had some issues with his and sent it back. could be a qc fuck up, could be a firmware thing, who knows.
I'm sure there's several more good printers in that range I'm not thinking of.

>>2731489
Is the k1 worth it? I don't mind paying a bit more for it, it does LOOK pretty good. A bunch of people on youtube have been saying its good but its hard for me to trust youtube reviews.

>>2730460
lmao they deleted it. These fucking trannies have never even seen a gun, if they had, they would have used it to off themselves.
Hey faggots, just because it's shaped like a gun, doesn't mean it is one.
I bet I can get banned by posting the 3D-printed glock door handle I modelled and made too.

>>2729848
>more failed prints
What am I doing wrong that adhesion gives up around the 1 hr mark consistently on all prints?

>>2731539
Saying "watch this get deleted because janny is a fag" is a sure way to invoke the wrath of the janny no matter the content, your post was deleted because of how it was said and not the content as this post probably will be.

>>2731277
Holy brim loops batman

>>2731100
This poster is LYING. Nishishishishi~!

>>2731586
not lying but they sent me a second a1, it is apparently going to be delivered tomorrow

>>2731585
yeah idk why creality slicer sucks so much cock

>>2731620
Stop using the Creality slicer holy fuck anon. Use a real slicer like PrusaSlicer or OrcaSlicer.

>>2731484
>do you notice if it breaks during a travel move where the nozzle is going to or away from that particular part, or if it's during printing of that particular part?
I've only observed it once, it seemed as if it reaches the sufficient height the parts starts to peel off (?) the surface when the nozzle moves away to the next print. Usually it's the 3rd from the left that starts to fuck up layers, but the time I observed it the first from the right got caught by the nozzle and crashed into the other rib. I'm really not sure what's causing all of that. I tried brim, raft, slowing down and it still doesn't work. I'm gonna try the previous thing someone mentioned and move them away from each other so that they are not all in one line. At that point I'm not sure if what could be causing that, maybe the filament is fucked up and not consistent in thickness?
>why did you even have it off in the first place?
I phrased it wrong, I had it turned on since the beginning

>>2731552
Probably from the bed and the actual print cooling down enough that the first layer contracts slightly and pops off/loosens up, .
Just gluestick your bed. Assuming that's a PEI sheet you'll probably never really have to clean it and it'll be completely fine.
Though the fact that you're actually using a brim makes it kind of weird that it's still doing it. If it's always at or around a really specific timeframe it might be the ball screw slipping or something weird causing the hotend to nosedive into the print hard enough to drag it off. Though I'd assume something like that would leave obvious enough traces to be noticed.
>>2731186
That kind of just seems like a dumb idea.
The entire point of dice is that they're equally weighted and properly balanced. Even with 100% infill I wouldn't trust 3d printed dice to not end up with a bias toward a specific number(s).

Anycubic Mega newb again. Exchanged my "silent" Noctua hotend shitter for an MF40101V1-1000U-A99 two days and it finished a 4hours test print and a 20hours stress test without further clogging issues.
Not sure if i should be mad about its previous owners or not, probably gonna disregard any "silent" mods from here on as memes though.

>>2731672
>That kind of just seems like a dumb idea.
>The entire point of dice is that they're equally weighted and properly balanced. Even with 100% infill I wouldn't trust 3d printed dice to not end up with a bias toward a specific number(s)
Not that guy but I guess at the end of the day you could test if you're really balanced or not by just rolling them x amount of times and recording the values

>>2731708
an easier and quicker way with plastic dice is to float them in saltwater

>>2731627
Neither of those are good, superslicer is the only decent one. You should be ashamed.

>>2731552
See this?
<-------
Your nozzle is too high and isn't smooshing the plastic into the bed plate properly.
Any time your first layer isn't completely homogenous, big red flags and flashing lights should be going off in your head. Just think logically, if the little plastic strands are not sticking together, how will they have any strength?

tldr: move the nozzle closer to the bed

>>2731484
>having an oversized calibration cube means obviously the machine is moving further than it thinks it is
or your extrusion multiplier is too large (very likely)
or your filament shrinkage multiplier is too large (also likely)
or your nozzle size is not a multiple of the calibration cube size
If you're buying a pre built or kit printer unless something has gone VERY wrong the steps will be accurate. You would literally need to have the wrong sized pulley or threaded rod pitch to get inaccurate steps.

>>2731411
First of all, you are printing a very thin object which means that your extruder has to move very slowly to let each layer cool enough to become hard. This means that plastic will be sat in the hot end for a very long time (>20 seconds) and will start to degenerate and become brittle or clog the nozzle.
If you "just want it to print" then you should add a large cube to the build plate and print that at the same time so you're not getting plastic left in the nozzle to degrade.
You should also add a Z hop, reduce the extrusion temperature, increase cooling and bump down the "minimum layer time" parameter

>>2731564
Pussy ass imageboard

>>2730244
Not the guy you’re replying to, but what’s the issue with PEI and ABS? Are they incompatible or something. I was thinking about getting a sheet for my printer and I print mostly in ABS. I have no issues with whatever stuff I currently have on my bed, but I like the look that textured PEI provides.

>>2731744
It sticks too well in some cases so if you print the wrong thing it can be a nightmare to get off. ABS also just sucks in general because it warps too much and smells

>>2731753
By wrong thing I mean brims, if you print a wide, thin brim and really get the nozzle close to the bed then the brim will stick and you'll end up having it there for months

>>2731712
You mean the one that was abandoned for over a year and now the dev is finally working on again? I love SuperSlicer but until Merill catches up it's missing too much shit. Fingers crossed.

For what purpose does bambu sell both a complete hot end (fan and cables??) and just a hot end nozzle.

>>2731830
They're replacement parts, anon. Is this a foreign concept to you? They sell parts, so if you need those parts, you can purchase them. If you need a nozzle, you can buy one. If you need a whole hotend, you can buy that too. Believe it or not, the same is true for lots of stuff. For example, there are whole stores dedicated to selling automotive parts, meant to replace worn out or broken parts of vehicles, and similar shops that sell parts for bicycles and other children's toys.

>>2731831
You mean you don't replace the whole printer when your nozzle wears out? Technology sure is amazing.

>>2731830
Easier to quickly swap between nozzle sizes if you have the whole thing. If I was going from 0.4 to 0.6 I'd just buy the complete kit. If I was replacing a 0.4 I'd just buy the nozzle

>>2731831
How often are you replacing the nozzle fan on a printer?
>>2731834
Oh that makes a bit more sense.

>>2731835
>How often are you replacing the nozzle fan on a printer?
When it breaks.

I just discovered this stupid idea of 3D printing filament, but then I thought, this can be used to alloy plastics. Anyone got ideas of what I should try blending? I know that PLA+PETG is the patented "crumbly like a cookie" mix.

>>2731856
I saw this on makerverse too, I need to try making some daily dose filament

>>2731716
Finally came back home and printed this with Z hop turned on and temp decreased to 195 and it ultimately printed properly (with a lot of stringing but it's acceptable). Thanks to every anon who gave my advices.

>>2731830
In all my years of 3d printing I have never been able to successfully replace just a clogged nozzle. It is always easier to just replace the entire hotend. This applies to Prusa, Creality, Reprap, Sovol, and Bambu.

>>2731856
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oWAacnuViU

>Found a telecaster body on thingiverse
>I can print a telecaster

>>2731714
>>2731714
Thanks anon. I had another two failed prints since reading these replies. Tldr I dropped the nozzle as low as I could get it while it, using the paper method the nozzle barely touches the paper and you can move it more or less freely.
Imgur gallery here - https://imgur.com/a/MhKjP6L

I've since printed two more failed prints and one successful Benchy, I'll take detailed pics and put them in an Imgur album.
Fail #1 was the first with the lowest setting for nozzle (-1.67mm). I reduced the print speed to 95% to see if that would help. It did, kind of, but still failed and i saw what was happening - as the print head moved from one end of the print back to the other end, the nozzle would hit some of the prints and over time it pulled them up off the plate.

Fail #2 I chose a different support. I'm using Cura and told it to use tree supports instead. I also changed the quality to what they call "dynamic" but the difference I saw was 1.6mm rather than 2mm. I also told it to lift the nozzle between printing because i assumed that would help. Figured why not. It printed successfully for 10 hours of a 23 hour print but then the same issue with the support happened. It got pulled up as the nozzle moved across it.

Finally because of my near 100% Fail rate I wanted to successfully print fucking SOMETHING so I did a Benchy. Maybe it will shed some light.

New Sovol SV06 Plus, eSun PLA+ @ 210°C and 60°C plate, using brims and have had failures with and without using a glue stick.

>get rid of annoying Ender 3 Neo that was doing this weird shape
>P1S is now making walls this weird shape
I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing, I hate 3d printing.

>>2731903
instead of mindlessly consooming, learn WHY its doing that, and fix it in the slicer.

>>2731905
I'd been through everything. I bought the P1S with profit from the Ender

>>2731903
Why the fuck didnt you buy a prusa? People will buy everything and do everything instead of simplifying their life by buying whatever is cheap then blaming the entire hobby. Bro theres a reason people shill prusa so hard.

>>2731903
>>2731921
Just buy a prusa mini. Then come back and see if you're still having issues. You can get a prusa mini used for $275. Come see what all the fuss is about and you'll understand why we talk like we do.

>>2731856
Most polymers don't dissolve. Functionally graded materials are somewhat attractive, so I suppose you could print variable filament. I think it would be hard to get the variable filament to align. Maybe the goal is to end up with the hard high molecular weight polymer on the surface and the soft low molecular weight one inside. A small error in the amount of filament used will make a big error in the material. Plus printed filament will have less mixing than what a proper screw extruder does.

>PLA spools have been hanging on my wall in the open air for literal years
>no noticeable problems during printing whatsoever
Is it just me? It feels like the hygroscopicity of PLA is a myth at this point. The very end of the spool does occasionally become brittle like a spaghetti noodle and I have to snap off about a foot or so, but beyond that it behaves completely normally.

>>2731964
my spool of "fuck it need a print now no matter how shitty" pla one day decided to disintegrate into two dozen individual strands, right on the spool and seemingly all at once judging by the racket it made. weirdly enough, i've never had problems with petg despite all the horror stories.

>>2731618
what the fuck I thought their support sucked

>>2731903
Play around with "full fan speed at layer:". Lower it to 2 or raise it higher. Try different fan speeds and maybe elephant foot compensation if that doesn't work. This tends to happen with abrupt cooling/temp transitions especially with thin walled prints.

>>2731989
their support is annoying af especially if it's not a major obvious issue. my AMS box was severely warped in shipping and it felt like it would be easier to talk a 12 year old's dad into letting me marry her than to get through to them but they did replace the bottom piece of the AMS. It was just so much irrelevant info and repeated responses.

Goddamn i hate creality printers so much. I'm buying a fucking prusa on payday. Failed print after failed print after failed print. I hate chinkshit so much it's insane.

>>2732009
And I swear to god if you prusafags mislead me, I will spend every last breath pushing to make 3d printing illegal.

>>2732009
My Ender 3 has served me faithfully for years without any problems. I haven't even had to fiddle with it past the first month or two that I owned it.
Might be a skill issue on your part.

>>2732015
It's a creality k1. Suppose to be "skill less"

God damn the A1 + cardboard box looks fucking tight.

>>2732018
Looks like any other 3d printer box.

>>2732020
>it's a Lab
your printer is the perfect size anon, the big ones hurt

How long before there's a printing centric cad integrated with the slicer?

>>2732029
man I was extremely disappointed to find out bambu studio has no measuring tool.
>have to find some other cad program to import my shit into to determine the diameter so I don't print something too small

Trying to print a figure for an xmas gift and having some trouble with Cura. For some reason, parts of the stl file are being cut off in the slicing process and I'm not sure what to do about it. You can see an example here where the middle of the figure's arm isn't being recognized as a part of the model in the preview after slicing. Thoughts?

What the fuck causes this and how the mothet fucking goddamn piss do I fix it?!?

>>2732040
I'm just returning it. I can't deal with 3d printing. It's not good enough now, it never will be.

>>2732040
>>2732041
Skill issue.

>>2732042
Whatever bro. This doesn't help. You should fuck off and die for being such a massive faggot.

>>2732043
You didn't ask for help, you declared that you gave up, so I'm taunting you for being a cuck who gives up on a hobby that hundreds of thousands of literal children enjoy.

>>2732040
My limited guess is that's it's some fucked up seam issue.

>>2732040
>>2732045
No visible seam in that pic. I see support structures and gaps in layers, it's a flow issue. Could be linear advance/pressure advance isn't tuned or is tuned incorrectly, could be exceeding the limits of acceleration possible with this extruder, could be lots of things.

Getting bad layer adhesion with ABS on taller layers. Do I truly need a heated chamber for proper layer adhesion on ABS? I need heat resistant parts. Enclosed p1p.

>>2732049
How warm is your chamber getting? Fans are off, right? I've never had issues with ABS so long as it's enclosed. I also always make sure my chamber is at least 40C before starting a print, and it usually rests around 45C while printing. All filament varies, what are you using? (Bambu?)

I am guessing it's the same guy that keeps posting the crealty failures and he doesn't actually own the printer?

>>2732051
Enclosed p1p. I start the print when the chamber gets to around 60c, takes around 20 min from cold start.

>>2732058
Well that's fucked. If your fans are off, at those temps, you shouldn't be having problems. You say tall layer, what kind of aspect? For example, I have no issues at 0.2mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle, but that's as thick as I go with it.

>>2732046
Thanks I'm just returning it to creality. I'll use the money and research between the a1 or mk4. I'm leaning towards the mk4 as prusa has a longer better track record. I can't believe the k1 is in such shambles. This is unacceptable for what amounts to a 2024 printer no matter the cost. I don't get why every creality printer I've ever owned just sucks so badly.

>>2732058
Thank you, you just made me purchase the prusa. I was going to get the a1 but if bambu has the same issues as creality I'm done with cheap low end garbage. I don't have the patience for it.

>>2732064
I look forward to seeing your posts complaining about prusa.

>>2732065
Look if it's shit, I'll let you know. I'm not hired by anyone. I just want a 3d printer that fucking works. I'm so sick and tired of troubleshooting. I just want to load a file and hit print and have the object be there without all the constant troubleshooting. You'd think we would be past this a decade later.

>>2732061
When I say tall layers I mean like layers above 75mm. Which seems like a heat issue because everything close to the bed has perfect adhesion.

>>2732069
Everything requires troubleshooting. You will never be able to avoid that. The closest you can get as far as I can tell to load a file and hit print would be X1C. At least with PLA.

>>2732073
Given your higher chamber temps, you could try lowering your bed temps to create less of a temperature differential across the part. In a passively heated chamber though that'll sacrifice chamber temp, so it may not work out. At this point I'd be concerned about drafts, airflow hitting the part.

>>2732076
Then 3d printing is dead.

>>2732097

>>2732100
Your cavalier attitude sealed your fate. 3d printing is only used for making ghost guns and terrorist weapons. I'm filing an injunction to push for its ban in the United States.

>>2732069
>Wahh wahhh why doesn't this really complex technology with 1000's of variables that need to be perfect to work NOT WORK PERFECTLY EVERY TIME with zero input from me

I've always heard that layer height should be a multiple of nozzle diameter, but is that a myth?
Like, if I print something with 0.1mm layer height vs 0.12mm, with a 0.4mm diameter nozzle. Is the 0.1mm layer height going to turn out slightly worse somehow just because it's not an even multiple, even though the smaller layer height should in theory make the detail slightly finer than the 0.12mm?

>>2732113
No that's maximum layer height should be a multiple of nozzle diameter. You're not going to do 20mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle.
You probably don't want layer height to go above 1x nozzle size but you can go down sort of as low as you want but not really.

>>2732117
>maximum layer height should be a multiple of nozzle diameter
What do you mean by maximum layer height in this context? The largest that a given nozzle can ever feasibly do? Because that wouldn't be "a multiple of nozzle diameter," it'd just be "the nozzle diameter" or maybe slightly less than that. Why would it even need to be a multiple in that case? If a 0.4mm nozzle could theoretically do 0.4mm layers, why couldn't it do 0.35mm? 0.35 is not a multiple of 0.4.

>>2732120
Your maximum layer height with a nozzle should not exceed 3/4 of the nozzle diameter. A 0.4mm nozzle should not print layers with a height greater than 0.3mm.
If you want to know why you cannot go higher, get yourself some cake icing and a piping bag and try to pipe icing in a single pass that's 5-10 times taller than the nozzle is wide. Become a scientist today and start experimenting.

You can print layers as small as you like but you will run into problems with plastic being heated for too long.

>>2732121
>Your maximum layer height with a nozzle should not exceed 3/4 of the nozzle diameter. A 0.4mm nozzle should not print layers with a height greater than 0.3mm
That still doesn't explain "maximum layer height should be a multiple of nozzle diameter."
0.3 isn't a multiple of 0.4.

>>2732126
garbled words. they meant layer height limits are mostly determined by nozzle diameter. layer heights are a fraction of nozzle diameter, not a multiple.

>>2732033
What's the yellow part? A top layer? Looks like the stl is fucked honestly. Try a different slicer just to confirm maybe. Are other people printing this stl with no issues?

>>2732033
might be a nonmanifold (i.e airtight) and has gaps and open edges, the slicer can have issues with it. try a different slicer or a mesh repair tool

>>2732126
0.4 x 0.75 = 0.3
0.75 = 3/4
Nobody cares about using correct terminology here especially when the meaning of my sentence was blaringly obvious. You are either autistic or need to get your head out of your arse.
I have given you an example of why maximum layer height is related to the size of the nozzle. If you're too braindead to visualise it in your head then you shouldn't be here. I doubt you're even white.

I know resin printing is really toxic and requires ventilation to get rid of the fumes. I’m getting a filament printer and from what i understand some ventilation is recommended for them too.
How much ventilation is required/is the melted plastic that toxic?
I was thinking of doing something like pic related to blow air out from the printer, is this overkill, not enough? How strong of a fan would i need?

(Heard some people just print next to open window?)

>>2732136
>I’m getting a filament printer and from what i understand some ventilation is recommended for them too
From what I understand, if you're running a print farm 24/7, you might not want it to be in your bedroom. If you're just running a single printer printing PLA every so often, it's probably not a big deal. No idea about the toxicity of other kinds of filament.
I think one issue with ventilating FDM is that moving air can cool the print prematurely and warp it, which can lead to it coming off the bed/nozzle collisions/etc. With some types of filament temperature warping is such an issue that people will make an enclosure for their printer to insulate it.

>>2732136
FDM printing is very safe and although there are VOC's emitted it's a very low level. If you're printing ABS or ASA then there will be a smell emitted when printing. This smell is not nice so you'll want some ventilation then or just open a window.
Printing PLA, TPU, PETG or nylon is perfectly fine to do with minimal or zero ventilation.

>>2732136
put the fan on the other side so it sucks air in from the box and blows it out the window. this will reduce the about of turbulent cool air that gets blown over the print which can cause issues with some materials. i.e negative pressure ventilation.
also, you only need the tiniest amount of air flow, that way you get a nice warm enclosure which is useful for printing some fancy materials.

>>2732137
> If you're just running a single printer printing PLA every so often, it's probably not a big deal.
That was the plan
>>2732140
I haven’t looked too much into filament type but I’ll keep this mind
>>2732142
Oh, good idea.
Thanks for the help everyone

>>2732143
Ignore >>2732140 do not print ABS/ASA without proper ventilation. The styrene it gives off is toxic and it coats everything it settles on

Even printing PLA/PETG you will want to be in a well ventilated room but its not as toxic as resin or ABS/ASA
If you want to print PETG make sure the PTFE tube inside the printer is either not touching the hot part of it or is rated for the high temperature you need. As the tube can give off a neurotoxin as it breaks down at high temperatures

>>2732146
>and it coats everything it settles on
Does this mean that even if I were to vacate my room for the duration of an ABS print and then let it air out for a while afterward, everything in my room would be coated in toxic shit? Would I have to worry about touching anything and then touching my eyes/food/etc, or would it not matter as long as I don't lick my desk afterward?
Is active ventilation or an enclosure essentially the only way to prevent this?

>>2732157
You would want an enclosure to print ABS/ASA anyway. Just use a dryer hose to vent it outside. Make sure it has negative pressure so the enclosure only sucks air in
Unless you need ABS/ASA for specific reasons there is no point in printing in it anyway. PLA is generally the best all rounder when it comes to printing shit and you only really need other plastics if you require heat resistance or for it to be less brittle

>>2732030
you have gross measurements in the scale tool and I have a folder of primitives which I'll import and scale in the slicer to check size against. I don't use the bambu primatives because they've got less resolution than a banjo kazooie native model. it sucks but it is what it is.

>>2732033
non-manifold. also try turning the figure on it's back s.t. the face doesn't need support, ditto the fingers or other detailed areas.

>>2732049
>heat resistant parts
>chooses ABS

>>2732063
>longer
yes
>better
no. you fucked it up once are you going to fuck up again just because of the reeeee chienese spyware club? because it seems like you just want to print and not have to fuck around more to find out you fucked up AGAIN.

>>2732073
how wide and deep? does it print in PLA?

>>2732136
have you never seen a fucking vent hood? in a kitchen? in a lab? they don't point a fan at the work and blow across it. be sure to get a C rated or above I'm sure there have been thousands of well documented deaths from FDM printing this year alone.

also I hope you've never been anywhere that has been painted because VOCs will kill you and then make you gay and paint has way more VOCs than your printer.

>>2732157
whenever I print more than idk 200 grams of abs in my P1S I have to wipe off the glass and liner rods with ipa and a microfiber because of the haze condenses on them. the smell also sticks around for a while even after cleaning.

>>2732202
clearly a skill issue. I've been through more than 12 rolls of ABS and just a few days ago printed 333g in one plate. there is no residue on around or in the printer. is your exhaust fan working?

>>2732195
what does everyone use for heat resistance these days? PETG seems good enough for enclosures for hot electronics, but i'm not sure what id use for something 90c+

>>2732210
PETG is good for UV resist. ASA for heat.

>no new affordable corexy from elegoo in time for christmas sales
please don't make me buy a bambulabs

>>2732103
Good luck with opening Pandora's box. Surely nothing bad will happen.

My nephew likes Earth Defence Force, any one got any STL's of anything from it?

>>2732219
ratrig or voron
If you're not poor now, supporting the chinese over western 3d printing will definitely make you poor in 20 years
I've got a corexy ratrig vcore 3.1 with a 500mm3 build volume. Don't need another 3d printer ever again

>>2732212
ASA is considered UV stable, PETG is absolutely not.

>>2732261
>Portugal
>Western

>Testing out PLA silk in silver metallic
This looks like an old video game render.

>>2732271
>You shouldn't have come back, Flynn.
>That isn't going to do you any good, Flynn.
>Stop, Flynn. You realize I can't allow this.

>>2732270
western ish

>>2732282
>8 of those people don't speak English

>>2732238
I don't but I think your nephew is cool

>>2732033
>1day 5hours
are you on it by now?

>>2732033
pretty sure red means the face normals are the wrong way. better put it into blender and recalculate them

Does anyone know if there's a significant difference between Sunlu PLA and PLA+? I've almost entirely used cheap no-name PLA until now, I picked up some of their PLA+ on sale and I'm pretty surprised by how different it is.
Everyone says "PLA+" doesn't really mean anything, it's basically a marketing label. Would that mean I'm seeing the difference between crap PLA and quality PLA, as opposed to whatever additives Sunlu put in their PLA+?

>>2732309
There is no definition for PLA other than containing PLA so yes PLA+ is just a marketing label. Sunlu is a crap brand so you're seeing the difference between below average PLA and average PLA

>>2730353
As a pir8 for over 20 years I suggest testing cracked soft in virtual machines after taking a clean snapshot so if no like you can revert with no trace of what you just installed. So handy.

>>2730396
There is also no reason for anyone who is not a mod to care about that rule and they don't need anyone else doing their jobs for them.

Funs are some of the most interesting prints because they have to DO functional things requiring strength, wear resistance and dimensional stability. You have no reason to be butthurt except perhaps being a troon, and even some of those value their rights. Let the mods do mod stuff and mind your own business.

>>2732326
hey man my baby yoda statue 3d print is functional too

>>2732326
I care because it's against United States law and I don't want regulations put on my 3D printers. I don't want to need a license to print. I don't want to need to prove myself that I'm not breaking the law .

>>2732329
not that guy but there's nothing illegal about 3d printing guns federally

>>2732134
He’s asking about the origin of a myth that there has to be some sort of integer multiple between those two variables, and that non-integer multiples will be worse. You’re not answering his question. He’s asking “why do people say A is B?” and you’re replying “A is C” without any reference to B.

I think it’s a horseshit myth, and it’s more like thin wall widths in your cad should be integer multiples of line width.

>>2732113
What I've read is that steppers have a pace of 0.04mm, so if you go in multiples of it the machine is going to be more precise because it's doing while steps, meanwhile if you do something like 1.0mm it will have to make an interpolated motion and thus less precise

>>2732271
I read to print silk PLA at 50% speed for the best results so that's what I did for these.

>>2732386
What wall thickness did you use?

>>2732329
>I don't want to need a license to print. I don't want to need to prove myself that I'm not breaking the law .

>>2732370
Well that depends entirely on the gearing of your machine. So the number of teeth on your belt sprockets, number of micro-steps of your stepper drivers, and the steps-per-revolution of the steppers themselves. The micro-steps definitely vary between printers.

>>2732329
A license for what? Don't need a license to make a gun in the US. Anyone can legally produce a gun that they can legally own. Making guns is an American tradition that predates the founding of our nation.

>>2732370
>>2732392
Where would I find out this information for a given printer?

>>2732393
*in free states

>>2732387
2 walls at .20mm with a .4mm nozzle

>>2732387
I just used the default .20mm settings.

>>2732396
One has not only a legal but a moral responsibility to obey just laws. Conversely, one has a moral responsibility to disobey unjust laws. I would agree with St. Augustine that “an unjust law is no law at all.”

>>2732406
I agree with you completely. However, I am just reminding you that depending upon your physical location you may find yourself breaking out the tannerite filled stuffed dog at 4 AM.

>>2732394
Figure out what steppers it has, what stepper drivers its mainboard has (they’re probably set to their maximum microstepping) and count the teeth on the sprocket. Math. It might say on the printer's spec-sheet, but often the resolution they write is the effective accuracy of the printer, not it’s precision.

Sup fellas, I printed this model of Samus and I was wondering how could I improve support sag

>>2732434
What printer and slicer? Also can you provide model stl?

good morning sirs, i will be buying a creality k1.

>>2732329
This but with Europe. You know as soon as a 3D printed gun is used in a crime here its going to be harder for hobbyists who aren't making weapons

>>2732513
is it impossible for something like the 2nd amendment to become law in a 21st century country that didn't already have something similar? i think the right of people to defend themselves with lethal force, and the right of people to resist against totalitarianism, are inviolable human liberties, just like the liberty to own property without it being taken or the liberty to speak what you want. As a society we accept that being able to drive ourselves around in cars results in a huge number of deaths each year, but somehow we aren't comfortable with the much smaller risk that a mentally unstable person will get hold of an otherwise legally acquired firearm and kill people? All good legislation is a compromise between human risk and state totalitarianism, we hardly see government spy cameras filling people's houses to ensure they're not making methylmercury to add to the town water supply.

3D printing has suddenly turned into a technology that can make a decently working firearm for a few hundred dollars with no tracked components, even for people in the most controlling of governments. And the tech and designs are only going to get better. The risk that 3D printing poses to society is steadily going up, so I wouldn't be surprised to see a scare about it. All it takes is one schizo to shoot up a mall with an FGC-9 and we'll see 3D printing jumping in front of AI content generation in the "legislate the hell out of it" line.

Personally I think ECM and EDM milling are more promising for making untracked firearms. While not nearly as established as 3D printing at the moment, I think either definitely could get to the point where you can buy a <$500 machine that can make accurate metal parts if you're willing to wait for them.

>>2732536
the problem is cars only kill when used wrong, guns are DESIGNED to kill, even the hobby part of gun ownership, like target shooting is irreversibly tied with shooting living things.
its more like how you can just buy and smoke cigarettes anywhere, except you cant because that can lead to cancer in other people.

3d printing is more likely to be targeted for legislation than machining because normies know enough about it that its push button get any object, while CNC machining sounds complex, and isn't for kids.

honestly i dont like talking about 3d printing guns, because its always the same thing, "i want to print a gun because i cant legally get one" 'printing guns is hard, why does this plastic that melts at 70c not hold up like a hardened steel barrel' "i want to print a gun because the gov says i cant and i want to show those snowflakes i should be free to do whatever i want without regulation", its boring, and not the reason i come to /diy/, which is to prove im not the dumbest motherfucker when i fuck up a simple task.

just replied to 5people and typed out a whole post with links and stuff just for my app to crash.
>3d printing guns is fun and will not stop. The technology is there they won't put it back in a box with regulation. I can build my own printer off of aliexpress
https://youtu.be/rCt4N31t5XI?si=y08jK3X4xCztEfFa
>try to get a general on /k/ going maybe

>>2732542
Lol no

>>2732386
just curious, are you selling these?

>>2732435
Ender 5 plus, I use cura and orcaslicer,

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r40QLWd_FOpcH9FvFz5cWPMDKN-lBBYp?usp=sharing

>>2732629
No they were for my mom's memorial party.

>>2732662
Northern Wisconsin? Minnesota?

>>2732386
>>2732662
rip
looks good tho

>>2732670
Northern Michigan.

>>2732536
You can legally buy a book in the UK which shows you how to make a SMG out of random hardware. If motivated people wanted a gun there is nothing stopping them other than not being able to get the ammo. 3D printing weapons is gonna be a talking point eventually. As some one with zero interest in making weapons, I just hope some crazy shit doesn't get in the way of my hobby

>>2732662
My condolences, nice work though

it blows me away that there isn't some website that crawls all the STL sites, and puts them together in one place.
i hate having to dig through like 6 different shitty websites to find the the best 3d model of a horse cock

>>2732682
Degeneracy aside, there are. You should learn to use google.
https://www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/?search=Hitler&free=0

>>2732536
>3D printing has suddenly turned into a technology that can make a decently working firearm for a few hundred dollars with no tracked components
You cannot print something that can hold back the explosion. I once had the stupid idea to make an overpowered airsoft gun by printing a 2cm thick solid barrel out of ABS then putting a small firecracker inside with a BB. That thing went off like a grenade, the barrel was shattered in a million pieces. Imagine if that was a 9mm round. No way it's going to hold.
Also good luck printing ammo.

>>2732536
>lathe turning has suddenly turned into a technology that can make a decently working firearm for a few hundred dollars with no tracked components
>metal milling has suddenly turned into a technology that can make a decently working firearm for a few hundred dollars with no tracked components

>>2732542
>i want to print a gun because i cant legally get one
There should absolutely be a place for people under the thumb of genocidal governments to talk about these things, though I don't think it should be on /diy/. /k/ maybe, though 4channel's policy against VPNs suggests otherwise. People in privileged countries like ours should make it as easy as possible for oppressed peoples to take up arms and rise up against amoral overlords.

>>2732737
They use untracked metal parts where it counts, see the FGC-9.
>ammo
This is the sticking point for me. While I believe it's entirely possible to make smokeless ammunition at home without purchasing anything that would put you on a watchlist, it requires chemistry knowledge that isn't trivial.

>>2732741
These are heavy and far more expensive machines due to the high cutting forces involved. Can't do it in a commieblock apartment. You can get semi-rigid desktop CNC mills (e.g. from distributed defence) but they're still a lot more expensive than 3D printing is. 3D printing, EDM, and ECM all have very low cutting forces, and so can be made as simple desktop machines with 2020 aluminium extrusions and small stepper motors. EDM is more expensive than ECM and 3D printing as a result of the power supply requirements, but I think it should be doable either via a rewound MOT or via an ATX PSU.

>>2732783
>implying you can't fabricate a bitch basic luty gun with a drill press, hacksaw and stick welder
stop concern trolling, shlomo

>>2732797
>stick welder
not an apartment tool

>>2732824
not that guy but you don't even need that. also the jew fears the indoor apartrment stick welder.

Anyone have any experience with the qidi x smart 3. Looking for a printer that just works and is fast/enclosed. I know its small at 180x180 but Im using an ender 5 plus thats 370x370.

>>2732737
>the barrel was shattered in a million pieces
yeah no shit. small firecrackers have the same powder charge of a normal 22lr, but use flash powder rather than smokeless which burns W A Y faster. you did the equivalent of shooting salted ammo in a normal rifle, no wonder it kb'd.

>>2732824
>he doesn’t weld in his bathroom
kek, you have much to learn from euro apartment fabricators

>>2730353
big fan of solidworks 2020 personally.

I have a ton of parts that are all the same print file and same brand PLA filament at 100% infill. I print them in open air outside of an enclosure but the garage they are in has pretty regular temperature fluctuations based on the daily weather. Once they are done printing they go into post processing where I thermoform them in boiling water. They all basically get the same temperature water and molding treatment. The kitchen might vary in temperature by about 10-15 degrees farenheit depending on the day.

Now heres the problem. I have noticed that some of the parts shrink too much too fast. I put some of these parts in the water for 15 seconds and it was almost too long and other parts I put in the water for 30 seconds and it was just right. I only had the problem with the parts shrinking too fast if it was a recent print. The ones that took 30 seconds were in the bottom of my box of parts so im assuming they were several weeks or maybe even months older. Those older parts had very minimal shrinkage.

Im assuming the thermoforming is turning out so differently because the old parts have had time to soak up moisture from the air. This is an ideal condition for the thermoforming but I dont know if its maybe making the parts weaker. Does anyone have any experience with this? Im thinking about just soaking these parts in water for a day or two to flood the pores full of water rather than waiting weeks or months.

>>2729848
I fucking hate Klipper and Can. I flashed this shit, got my uuid for both toolhead board and mainboard, restarted the printer, and nothing fucking works anymore (after making sure to Shutdown Klippers service, too). Restarted with a fresh sd card, followed the same steps, now I can't even get my uuid's.
I fucking hate this so much.

Any coomers here with the SR6 or the SSR1 files? I don't want to simp to cooooom

>>2732269
PETG not? Strange, those beverage bottles, made from same material and they fucking eternal. Made shitload of things from those, they sit under the sun, in heat, nothing wrong with them. Sure they degrade with time, but I probably die first, before I see them falling apart. I don't overthink with material choices. I most things make out of PLA, it's cheap, it's almost zero problems to print, parts pretty tough and to be honest, if you don,t need springy part, part to withstand heat or impact force, PLA is fine almost for everything. And last lot longer than people think. Here replacement pulley for bike gear. I already got about 1000+ kilometers with this one, and it's still OK. Sure it show signs of significant wear, but still good to use. When it's will be unusable, I print hundred of those AGAIN. So, do i need eternal parts? No. I know those things will fall apart from elements, unless they made with space grade materials. But doe's they has to? No. Unless your part somewhere it's hard to service, like on the roof or underground, tow to five years of service is good enough for printed parts. So I'm personally not obsessed with making something last forever. But look to make it cheap, fast, easy to replace and last long enough. So PLA, ABS, PETG, for most parts are perfect, just keep in mind temperatures and paint them if they outdoors, or don't if you doesn't keep those constantly directly under the sun. Keep it simple and don't stress over things like making part last for hundred years. make better design instead, you will always be able to replace it anyway, this is why you have a printer. So two to five years are OK for part used outside and PETG, pretty much do it. Even PLA if you just expose it to outside occasionally, while commuting on your bike is fine and last for long, same for ABS.

Print a whole derailleur.

>>2730353
Come home, CADlet
https://mega.nz/folder/4YEzRbqK#lDQEWHdaP-ClV0Sonb5ASA

merry christmas bambu and 3dpg
160 down, 240 to go
gonna get me an A1
Got a year before they expire though so might just get a mini

>>2732932
how are you connecting the can bus, with external bridge (like U2C) or over the stepper board?

>>2733192
Nice. I had a bunch of money in Amazon gift card so I got a creality k1. Hope its good. I've done a ton of research prior and my expectations are tempered.

>>2733231
I'd probably get a K1 next if I wanted a 3d printer if I could get incentives

my relatives got me a spool of glow in the dark pla for christmas. what should I print them as a thank you?

>>2733315
Just on the off chance you're not aware, glow in the dark filament will blow the asshole out of a brass nozzle VERY quickly, it's extremely abrasive. You need a hardened nozzle of some kind. Have fun, anon, Merry Christmas.

>>2733010
That's a paint shaker right?

>>2732685
>stlfinder
thanks friend

Probably a dumb question. Sovol sv06, what are these parts on the extruder used for?
Instruction manual mentions “extruder kit” (is that just the same name for this whole extruder piece?) in reference to connecting all the wires of the machine, and has a very small picture that looks like nothing was really changed.

>>2733321
top thing is where the cable for the extruder goes. it's a rectangular thing and the clips lock around it.
hole on the side, i don't think anything goes there.

report back if yours works well. i could never get a good first layer. had to flash it with some firmware some dude wrote and manually build a bed mesh.

>>2733321
>>2733324
I see it
Was dumb question
Am retarded
Was looking all over for a cord but it was bundled with control box

could i just bolt a dremel to my gantry and use it as a router?

>>2733324
>>2733325
Leveling and everything
Will have to print tomorrow morning
Z-offset was -1.900 which I hope is okay
Was recommended between -1.0 to -2.0

>>2733331
If it's not you could always just measure it with a piece of paper. It's way easier than you might think.

What material would be adequate for a constant wet and cold storage feet? Like 4mm of water running around it once a week? Bit more in winter than summer of course. Is PETG enough or should i rather opt for a resin mold while i'm at it? Printer is a mk3s.

>>2733321
The connector on the side is an extra, if I remember correctly most connect a filament runout sensor to it