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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 48 KB, 500x153, stupid questions dilbert.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703451 No.2703451 [Reply] [Original]

Didn't see one up, and I had a stupid question that didn't deserve its own thread.
I wanna build a deck. It's next to the house but ledger/flashing sounds hard so I'm just gonna do freestanding. The code says:
>DECK FOOTING WITHIN 4' OF HOUSE FOOTING MUST BE TO THE SAME DEPTH AS THE HOUSE FOOTING
but how do I know what depth the house footing is? Do I have to dig down next to the house or should that information be recorded somewhere? If it's in a record somewhere how/where do I find that?

>> No.2703455
File: 108 KB, 606x499, 20m9vk.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703455

>> No.2703519
File: 14 KB, 1152x648, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703519

would it be retarded to build a sort of skirt for my house to further deflect rain away? I have an old leaky basement. (pic related)

>> No.2703531

>>2703519
If this causes dirt to be consistently drier around some parts of your house than around others then the soil around your house will flow unevenly. This will eventually cause our foundation to crack.

>> No.2703565

Will freezing overnight ruin my fiberglass? It's 80% cured but I don't want to leave the heat gun running without supervision. I still want to put at least one more layer on so I'm fine if it doesn't finish curing overnight as long as it still will after a fresh coat of resin and hardener in the morning. Polyester not epoxy if that matters.

>> No.2703652

>>2703451
just look up the minimum depth for your frost zone and use that, the house is probably the same or less.

>> No.2703654
File: 112 KB, 1400x800, 1000006112.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703654

Is Kobalt a good budget brand?

Like longevity and warranty wise

>> No.2703729
File: 229 KB, 1198x1139, 20231030_142830.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703729

Tard here, how do I fix the piece of wood on the right to the frame on the left? The pictured screw is already there holding the leftmost two existing pieces together.
There's a wooden shelving unit on my wall I want to add another column to.

>> No.2703733
File: 38 KB, 768x512, outdoor-faucet.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703733

Anyone have any suggestions for outpost faucets that meet these criteria.

>Freezeless
>Backflow prev & autodrain
>"Lead free", pref NSF/ANSI cert, will be for drinking water as well.

I have 4 faucets to replace total

2 of the are right next to each other and are hot/cold taps, they are screwed into pex that go underground and feed my outdoor kitchen sink, when I want to use them I unscrew the PEX and screw in the hose. Id also like suggestions for a better solution for this.

Unfortunately all faucets HAVE to have backflow, water district actually checks.

>> No.2703737
File: 36 KB, 420x420, th (4).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703737

>>2703733
You can get a compliant backflow attachment.

>> No.2703742

idk the air tool market, what are fair prices for used air tools on craigslist/marketplace?
a lot of them are high-end brands but they look beat to hell

>> No.2703754

>>2703729
Dowel+glue joint or toenail some screws in from the underside of the new peice on the right into the oild peice.
>t. not a carpenter

>> No.2703757

>>2703733
Freezeless has some inherent downsides.
It can't regulate flow. It's either all the way open, all the way closed, or you're putting crazy wear and tear on the seal.
The valve packing receives actual wear and tear as well so unlike in a ball valve it can be a point of failure.
They're also more of a pain to install or replace, since they go a fixed length into the wall.
If your climate justifies a freezeless valve then go for it. But I wouldn't want one if a ball valve were an option.

>>2703737 is great advice.
The check valve in a backflow preventer will fail eventually. You don't want to replace your whole sillcock when that happens.
Especially if it's freezeless and you have to cut open to wall to install a replacement.

I don't have any specific advice on potable water.
The majority of your options will be safe for drinking water, but enough options won't be that you need to check to be sure.

>> No.2703817

Fiberglass is safer than asbestos because... ?

>> No.2703831

>>2703817
they behave quite differently at a microscopic scale
Asbestos fibers can split lengthwise almost infinitely, so you get relatively long, fractions of a micrometer thin slivers that are the perfect size for slipping inside bits of lung tissue that are supposed to only ever interact with oxygen, which causes a bunch of damage on its own, but then because they're also long and sharp and basically indestructible, when a white blood cell tries to attack it it usually ruptures and dies, which triggers other "Oh shit" biological processes I'm not medical enough to understand that eventually leads to a buildup of scar tissue and often cancer developing.

Inhaling any kind of mineral dust is generally terrible for you, but fiberglass isn't a crystal like asbestos so it doesn't splinter in the same way, and your body is probably better able to deal with the bits you do inhale. What actually causes cancer specifically is still not that well understood but statistically the link between Asbestos and lung cancer was incredibly strong and with Fiberglass it's much weaker if it exists at all, different studies get different results depending on how they account for other factors, like labourers working with fiberglass insulation in the 2000s also probably worked with asbestos in the 80s, and are more likely to smoke.

Anyway it's still a good idea to protect yourself if there's going to be any significant exposure, like if you're sanding fiberglass and making a shitload of dust. Respirators are cheap and even a dust mask helps a lot.

>> No.2703849

>>2703742
Check out who is selling them. A lot of that stuff is pawn shops who overprice everything and want 90% of MSRP for tools that lived a few years in a shop and got beat to hell. I would rather buy new, just watch the prices at Northern Tool or something.

If you find something that looks like a fair price, the upside is that you can rebuilt air tools fairly easily. Don’t pay anything too much for tool trucks brands because that high MSRP is paying for the tool truck service, which you will never see. Maybe if you find some cheap Chicago Pneumatic or Ingersoll Rand, get those and do rebuilds where needed but make sure you’re not exceeding like 70% of new after a rebuild.

Also there’s some decent non-legacy air tool brands. Like Astro Pneumatic’s stuff on Amazon is going to be quite solid and a lot of it is newer tech and designs.

Amazon might be an authorized seller on some of the air tool brands too, so worth checking the prices of IR stuff on Amazon, I have seen sales on their stuff on Amazon a lot.

>> No.2703852
File: 2.23 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703852

If I have some 1V lithium cells that may or may not be trash, what current should I do to try to recover them and what voltage can I bump it up to like 0.5C?

>> No.2703859

is there a place to get cheaper powertool bits and pieces than home depot?

are amazon stuff of any decent quality?
i bought bits at an outlet store and they are just fucking garbage. they fall out the chuck and strip super easy. they were like 1/3 the price of homeless depot shit. i guess the move would be to buy a few things and steal a few other smaller ones?

im poor and building a pretty big project for my community with cost coming out of my own pocket

>> No.2703861
File: 262 KB, 1198x1139, shelf1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703861

>>2703729
do you care if it looks like shit? add a side plate and top plate

>> No.2703862
File: 269 KB, 1198x1139, shelf2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703862

>>2703729

>> No.2703863

>>2703729
remove the top portion of the frame and put the board on the right where it was

>> No.2703870

>>2703859
Look for the sales or buy in bulk. Cheap chinese bits on Amazon or Ebay are almost guaranteed to be shit. The best buy IMHO is to snag the DeWalt bit sets on sale. Multiple times a year Home Depot and/or Lowe’s will have this 100pc DeWalt kit with 4 boxes (normally 3x driver bits and 1x drill bits) for $25-$25, and they will have smaller like 14pc drill bit sets alone for ~$10. Amazon has tons of DeWalt sales too.

This bit set on the top at Lowe’s will probably drop down in price after Nov 22nd. DeWalt has a ton of authorized retailers so look around.

>> No.2703871
File: 600 KB, 828x1456, A16DCC7F-E34A-45E1-8224-2621F635A21B.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703871

>>2703870
>>2703859
Forgot pic

>> No.2703874

>>2703654
Kobalt is Lowe's in-house brand.
That's all I know about it.

Lowe's has been in business for over 100 years though so if they come with a good warranty, I'd say that adds a lot of value if the policy is good.

>> No.2703876
File: 173 KB, 884x982, drywall.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703876

can I just paint over this or does drywall need to be glass smooth before painting? this is obviously a little exaggerated since I put a flashlight against the wall just to highlight the sanding marks. Do I need to sand this down further or can I just paint and prime?

>> No.2703877
File: 1.57 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703877

>>2703852
Welp, she’s on the charger again. Brought the 4x super low cells up closer to 2.9V and all of a sudden the contacts went from ~400mV up to >14V and the charger recognized it.

Whether or not this thing runs any tools very well is another story.

>> No.2703879

>>2703654
Yes. It’s nice mid-range stuff. Like anon said, it’s Lowes’ store brand. Not as big of a lineup as the name brands like DeWalt or Milwaukee, but you get a lot of performance for the money if you’re just looking at the core tools. Better than Craftsman or Skil or Ryobi in general, but a little below DeWalt or Makita or Flex.

Ridgid is Home Depot’s equivalent, and Menards has Masterforce. They’re manufactured by the megacorps who make some of the more expensive name brands.

>> No.2703882

>>2703876
Can you hit it with a finer grit sandpaper real quick? Hard to tell how deep those are with a closeup, but primer plus a coat or two of paint might cover it up if that’s a real close-up and those are just little sandpaper lines.

>> No.2703899

>>2703870
seems like the bulk of certain types never go on sale, just the variety packs.

i need like 5 bit holders and like 20torx bits. its also nice to buy other stuff in bulk, but it hurts to spend full retail price on it

>> No.2703919
File: 365 KB, 828x1321, 6AC7A944-8B56-4EE8-B09B-C6B2DB3AC68C.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703919

>>2703899
Go on Amazon or Home Depot’s website and search for it with known brands. You should be able to get like 20pks or 25pks or any size bit if you just search that certain size. And I bet there’s bit holders that don’t totally suck for a reasonable price online. Cheaper bit holders don’t seem nearly as bad as cheap bits.

>> No.2703977

>>2703451
What kind of materials can you make a phonograph pickup out of? I want to try making my own phonograph, but don't want to mess with a mica membrane

>> No.2703980
File: 37 KB, 1349x1656, meretard.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703980

So I bought a shitty 5th wheel trailer and the steps that went with it. In the process of moving the heavy ass steps the posts got a bit bent like pic related. Was thinking about wedging some bracing between the posts. Should I do anything else?

>> No.2703982
File: 455 KB, 1440x1515, Screenshot_20231030-201038.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703982

>>2703757
>If your climate justifies a freezeless valve then go for it. But I wouldn't want one if a ball valve were an option

So there's already freeze-less valves in place that are all 4 inches. So as far as I'm aware, I can simply just unscrew them and screw the new ones in.

The potable water aspect has been a huge pain in the ass, so far MOST have been non-drinkable because the regulations are different from inside/outside faucets.

Simply put, I'm not giving my kids fuckin lead water.


I've found these stupid ass ones and I think they are a bit gimmicky but yah, they do look nice so idk, they are fuckin expensive but so is everything that's potable outdoors apparently.

Basically you plug it in, and it's just full blast soon as you plug it in which is kinda cool. This model has a backflow built in.
Iffy on them but idk,
>>2703737
I have those right now and they are a fucking pain in the ass so far.

>Tldr, I need a nonshit NSF61 outdoor faucet, prefer with backflow / freezeless, but idk

>> No.2703983

>replacing ancient (50 years maybe?) outlets
>take the old outlet out and have two blacks, two whites, and a bare ground wire.
>plug the whites into the two back wiring slots on the silver screw side.
>plug the blacks into the back wiring slots on the gold side.
>prap the ground around the green screw.
>THE CIRCUIT BREAKER FUCKING TRIPS WTF
What the fuck is going on this is supposed to be correct wiring?
I haven't tried wiring around the screws instead of using the back wiring slots.

>> No.2703984

>>2703983
Look at the old socket, is the plate between the screws split?

After that, expose the wires and turn on the breakers, check voltage with a multimeter on each wire then mark them

>> No.2703987
File: 11 KB, 709x944, outkletfuck.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2703987

>>2703984
Please explain this to me like I'm an amateur because I am.
This is what the old socket looks like when I pulled one out. Instead of the wires going to each corner like the new socket there were two white wires plugged in the same corner.
(I'm not actually there right now so I can't provide more detailed answers.)

>> No.2703989

>>2703987
Were the white wires twisted together?

What was actually attached to the socket

>> No.2703990

>>2703989
They were back wired, not directly touching but there were two slots side by side they were plugged into. There was plastic over the back so I don't know if the contacts touched underneath that but the slots were very close together.

>> No.2703991

>>2703990
The white wires I mean, the black wires were in separate corner slots on their side as I expected. I don't recall the ground wire exactly but it didn't stand out to me as anything strange unlike the white wires

>> No.2704002
File: 38 KB, 495x366, b3V74.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704002

>>2703983
Check the old outlet to see if it looks like pic related.
If it does, make the new one look like that by breaking the tab off.

>> No.2704004
File: 99 KB, 1000x1000, FH13MAR_SWIOUT_14.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704004

>>2704002
>by breaking the tab off.
another view

>> No.2704012

what kind of ethernet cable do i need for PoE cameras? i didn't realize there was a whole world of ethernet cables, various jacket types, ratings, and so on.

the outdoor exposure is minimal, basically they would just pop out of the wall to reach the camera. do I really need special outdoor wire for that?

>> No.2704013
File: 125 KB, 1024x578, 9302023192139.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704013

Anyone know where I can find the plastic buttons for a RACAL-DANA 1992 frequency counter? The actual buttons work perfectly fine.

>> No.2704014

>>2703983
I'm not electromagician, but if you have a multimeter check the voltage between the two blacks.
If it's 2x the local voltage you have an out of phase pair. Don't ask me why it's done, I have no fucking clue, go watch a youtube video.

>> No.2704086

Can someone recommend a good ladder for an enclosed space?

It also has to accommodate a toilet. My only roof access is in the water closet of my master bathroom.

I have a 6 ft A-frame but because theres a door frame and a toiler I'm in such un awkward angle i feel like I can't get the leverage or balance to open the access

A telescoping ladder seems flimsy. But I was considering that or a little giant style that could go up vertically and pivot a section to lean against the wall.

>> No.2704106

>>2704002
>>2704004
Thanks, I'll take a look but like I said, the old outlets are exclusively back wired. It might not even have side tabs given there are no side screws.

>>2704014
I'll look it up, thanks.

>> No.2704446

Can you boil titanium? If boiling the titanium would boiling remove any unwanted residues? Would the titanium discolor from boiling?

>> No.2704455

>>2704446
>Can you boil titanium?
it boils at just under 6000 degrees Fahrenheit.
>Would the titanium discolor
Well, it burns in air, oxygen, or even nitrogen at well under its boiling point, so Yes.

>> No.2704478
File: 3 KB, 346x306, two-phase-flow.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704478

I want a jar to be filled to a certain level from an airtight reservoir. The tube i use seems to be too small and neither water nor air want to flow. Is there an easy solution instead of picking a tube with a larger diameter?

>> No.2704490

>>2704013
you might just 3d-print them. If that is not an option, cuttng small cubes from wood and drilling holes into them could work

>> No.2704526

>>2703451
>Do I have to dig down next to the house
Yes.
>should that information be recorded somewhere?
It's possible, check with your local permitting authority. Some archive plans for past permits, some don't. But it seems like it would be a waste of time since you're going to have to dig down to the existing footing regardless of whether or not you know in advance how far down it is.

>> No.2704529

>>2703652
A minimum depth is just a minimum requirement, the house's footing could be much deeper than the minimum especially if it's got a full basement. And OP's new deck footings need to go down to the level of the existing house footing to ensure that they're bearing on undisturbed soil rather than backfill.

>> No.2704536

>>2704012
Anything solid core twisted pair like 5e should be fine. From what I remember generally the gray jacket is indoor and black jacket is outdoor. Best to have some form of roof over the boxes and cameras anyway, if you do then you don’t have to worry too much about cable ratings and also the other components will last a lot longer. I would probably still go with something better than the cheapest indoor cable though, again it will last longer.
If you have long runs then people here recommend running 110V AC directly to the boxes. This is retarded, instead, run 24-36V DC through the ethernet cables and use a LM2596 board in each box to step down to 12V for the cameras. More efficient also (less heat losses along the cables).
Since the cable has 8 conductors you can also use one cable for up to 2 cameras to save money. Have the cable pass through the box like this (ignore the . for spacing):
—-—\. [ ] ./——
.........\_/\_/
Then you split off 4 conductors for one camera inside the box, and have the other 4 conductors pass through the box to the next camera, ideally without cutting them.
It’s best to make a single hole on the bottom of the box for the cable, this will prevent any water running along the cable from getting into the boxes.
Make a map/drawing with cable colors and camera locations so you don’t get confused.

>> No.2704539
File: 35 KB, 970x686, FILLER.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704539

>>2704478
>from an airtight reservoir
The reservoir cannot be airtight, at least not all the time, since for water to come out air must enter the reservoir to replace it. What you really need is a way to switch the reservoir between being airtight and not being airtight, to control the flow of the water. The simplest solution to accomplish this without using any kind of valves or controls is to use 2 tubes. One tube to let water out of the reservoir, and one tube to let air into the reservoir. Have the end of the air inlet tube located at the maximum desired height of the water in the jar so that the water stops flowing when the jar is full.

>> No.2704540

>>2704536
>run 24-36V DC through th
POE is 48V
Domt rely on jacket colour, outdoor cables are gel filled to block water ingress which fucks the signal and eventually damage cable or house.
If the connector end of the cable is completely inside the camera and protected I.e. bottom entry or with drain holes then you can use literally almost any cat5e cable whatsoever.
The very bottom rung is copper coated aluminium unshielded twisted pair. You should avoid this solely because it's bad juju to encourage people selling CCA. Get a solid copper UTP either premade cable or box of solid core 305m.
Personally I would avoid using a crimp terminal on solid core cable.
I would run the cable inside all the way to the camera, terminate into an outlet, patch cable from indoor to outdoor. But that's just me.

>> No.2704556
File: 47 KB, 764x1045, Screenshot_20231101_084625.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704556

I'm buying a house and the living room has 3 separate light switches
What would be the process to group them together as a single unit?

>> No.2704571
File: 217 KB, 1280x1280, B2DF5039-3D0E-46F4-8FBA-6FABB4829E40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704571

>>2704556
They’re all on a wall near eachother like your pic? Wow that’s lazy/ugly.

If that’s the case, as a hackjob mini boomer DIYer homeowner, I would cut a square of drywall out all around it, maybe a rectangle from stud to stud would be best, rup out the 3 individual boxes and install a 3-gang box, run all the wires into there, install switches, put up a fresh rectangle of drywall, mud and repaint and walla! You’re there!

>> No.2704573

>>2704455
No I mean place titanium objects into boiling water

>> No.2704577

>>2704556
1 - Shut off the breaker(s) supplying power to the circuit(s)
2 - Take the covers off the switches and pull the switches out of the wall
3 - Remove the wires from each switch, labeling where each wire went on the switch (or take pictures for reference)
4 - Remove the 3 single boxes and install a new 3-gang box
5 - Run the existing wires into the new 3-gang box (assuming they are long enough)
6 - Connect the wires back to the switches and install the switches in the box
7 - Turn the power back on and test the switches
8 - Patch the drywall
9 - Paint the wall
10 - Install a new 3-gang switch plate

>> No.2704592

Where can I study regarding turning 220v outlet to regular 120v outlet

>> No.2704594
File: 60 KB, 500x625, 1698373694588242.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704594

>>2704571
can you please stop trying to give advice

>> No.2704595
File: 60 KB, 1222x603, Have You Tried a Search Engine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704595

>>2704592
>Where can I study regarding turning 220v outlet to regular 120v outlet

>> No.2704598
File: 2 KB, 282x686, two-phase-flow-2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704598

>>2704539
i tried your approach already it ends up like in the picture. Air inlet pipe sucks some water in and then the system is blocked again

>> No.2704603

>>2704598
I don't see how that's possible. Unless maybe you're allowing the water to get high enough in the reservoir that it's above the top of the air inlet pipe? Or if you're using really tiny piping, like 1/8" ID or something.

Otherwise it should just start flowing again as soon as the water gets lower than the air inlet.

>> No.2704612

>>2704603
when the water level drops below the air pipe, the water gets in motion and fills the jar. Reaching the air inlet pipe the water is still in motion and that momentum sucks the water in i believe

>> No.2704621

My shower water is over flowing after me shaving in the sink. This has happned before and it has happened when it has rained then it flooded my basement. Are these related?

>> No.2704633
File: 99 KB, 736x551, download (1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704633

>>2704621
Your drain is clogged or REALLY slow downstream of the shower drain.

>> No.2704638

>>2703451
I'm looking for the solution to fixing spreading rust on a 2011 Dodge Caravan's body panels. The van is not mine, but every time I see it, it looks a hair worse, and I can't get my siblings to understand that a rusting vehicle is bad. I've stripped/sanded the bubbling OEM paint and hit it with minimum two layers of white rust-converting Farm Implement paint, and the goddamn car is still bubbling. I live in South Ontario, where rust is common, but dammit, my '05 Corolla is doing better then this van. Any advice to nuke the shit beyond full strip and repaint, or do I just commit and stop being a bitch? Again, not my car, but I want to help them.

>> No.2704644
File: 56 KB, 220x352, Good morning!.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704644

How do you actually build a sturdy and reasonably efficient front axle with a servo motor for an RC car? I can't find any material on this, especially in books

>> No.2704645

>>2704638
Just go to pick and pull and grab a new door, not worth the effort trying to get the rust off of that door since your going to have to rip it off anyway
Also make sure moisture isn’t trapped under the paint, you might’ve been spraying when the metal was still wet.

>> No.2704665
File: 436 KB, 1440x2346, Screenshot_20231101_124041_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704665

Anyone ever build a small shed? I need a small shed for gardening equipment, shovels, brooms, Milwaukee weed cutter, pole saws, etc.

These small plastic sheds cost $600 and have bad reviews. Warping under heat sun, and it's plastic, so it will probably degrade at some point. I have some left over metal that I could use to build a structure. Might just need to buy some sheet metal or vinyl siding. Can't be that complicated to build a square box, right?

>> No.2704667
File: 525 KB, 1400x2439, Screenshot_20231101_124648_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704667

>>2704665
Something like this would be nice, but they all seam to lean back. Trying to have this against the side of the house and don't want it to divert water towards my house. Only have about 4 feet setback, so can't buy one of these. Wouldn't be able to open the door.

Also think it would be unneighborly to point it towards the neighbor and just spill rainwater on their side.

Unless if I just buy this and customize it. Switch the door, cut off a foot with an angle grinder.

>> No.2704677

>>2704594
Kek, what about this anon who posted the exact same thing? >>2704577

You’re worse than tripfags.

>> No.2704687
File: 1.42 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_1787.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704687

what are my options for reattaching this? will rtv black work?

>> No.2704688

>>2704677
>You’re worse than tripfags.
Tripfags are like whale shit. They are on the bottom.

>> No.2704696

>>2704687
Looks like it is keyed and brass? You should be able to (super)glue it back together as long as the plastic piece isn't stripped/broken.

>> No.2704701

>>2704688
So imagine where you’re at!

>> No.2704705

>>2704696
lol its broken. maybe i should just buy a new one and use pillars in the mean time? basically its a tube that sheaths the valve 'opener?' and that thing is split vertically and spread open.

>> No.2704708

>>2704705
Don't bother, they sell replacements switches on their website. I tried fixing it and it wasn't worth it (broke again).

>> No.2704711

>>2704708
ah good info. i thought that might be an option but i also has some rtv so i figured id ask, thanks anon.

>> No.2704728

Having issues with my gas furnace turn/staying on. When it starts up, it stays lit for about 3-4 seconds before turning off. Then it attempts to start 3-4 more times, staying lit for less than a second each time, then it turns off. Occasionally it will work and stay on, but it's seemingly random.
Googling my issues, everything points directly that this is a flame sensor issue. Cleaning it off didn't work, so I replaced it when a new one. Still doesn't work. Now I'm out of ideas since replacing the flame sensor is the only suggestion when I search my issue.

>> No.2704733

>>2704728
The flame sensor goes to the control board. The board may be defective and not recognizing the input.

Search by your furnace model number and the actual board model to see if either of these is prone to board failure.

>> No.2704735

>>2704728
Have you watched the ignition of the burner to ensure the flame actually touches the flame sensor?

>> No.2704770
File: 1.46 MB, 2268x4032, PXL_20231101_232603525.MP.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704770

>>2703451
Is this a Moen 1222 cartridge?
Hints
> the face plate was a moen. One of those old ones with the plastic face plate.

>> No.2704771

>>2704571
>They’re all on a wall near eachother like your pic? Wow that’s lazy/ugly.
yeah, it looks like shit. to make it even worse, one is brushed steel, one is ivory, and one is brass.
>>2704577
>(assuming they are long enough)
if not, just splice a bit of length on with a junction box? I'm hoping there's enough slack there that I can just do exactly that, but I don't actually get the house until the 21st so I won't be able to check until then

>> No.2704785
File: 1.47 MB, 1280x766, furnaceboard.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704785

>>2704733
>>2704735
So it turns out I have two flame sensors installed. One goes to this circular thing (see picture) that was apparently not the flame sensor. The other one was hard to reach and I never saw it until I disassembled the furnace more. It was a pain to get to, but cleaning it fixed the furnace.

>> No.2704790

>>2704785
The black thing circled in red is the igniter/ignition coil.
It generates a high voltage that goes to a spark gap to ignite the gas at the burner.
They don't need cleaning. :^)
The flame sensor it just a fat wire that pokes into the flame.
The "plasma" of the flame creates a low resistance to "ground" which can be measured by the control board.
Being always in the flame, corrosion can build up on the wire electrically insulating it from the "plasma"
Cleaning off the corrosion restores it's electrical conductivity

Congrats on getting it going..

>> No.2704805
File: 37 KB, 596x596, 44612461344.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704805

how would I frame these corners using light gauge steel studs?

>> No.2704808

>>2704540
>POE is 48V
Yes, but max for LM2596 is 40V if I remember correctly. It doesn’t really matter what voltage you use as long as you are consistent. You can calculate the power requirements, voltage drop etc here: http://poe-world.com/Calculator/

>> No.2704809

>>2704805
make cuts to allow overlapping 'flaps' - screw the flaps together
inserts with screws or bolts and nuts
welding

>> No.2704815

>>2704809
going with self tapping screws, how my concern is the structural integrity, This is going to be shed how well will the walls hold up assuming I had more studs

>> No.2704816

>>2704809
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ze-oz7PmT1w&t=213s

if i follow this method will it work on a vertical rather than a corner wall

>> No.2704819

>>2704816
horizontal*

>> No.2704820

>>2704771
Damn, not even the same covers? That’s some top tier laziness. I wonder what the purpose was, like an electrician didn’t want to run to Home Depot for a 3-gang box? Or the circuits were added later? But even then, if you were adding circuits, why not just make a cut in the drywall and extend the 1-gang box to a 2- and then 3- box? Hopefully there’s nothing else goofy going on behind the wall.

I would just splice the wires if I needed more length, but that’s probably not up to code, some sparky here would no better but seems like connections are always supposed to be done in a box.

>> No.2704827
File: 11 KB, 320x280, 1067455_18_0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704827

>>2704820
>Damn, not even the same covers?
nope
I assume it was done by the same person that made the sauna room in this house, which is a wood room with no foundation, it's just built on top of dirt.

>> No.2704829

>>2703876
You can use a little hot mud to fill in such cracks. Mix a tablespoon of it with a few drops of water and use your finger to apply it smooth. Don't use too much water. You want toothpaste consistency, not runny shampoo. Excess water will cause shrinkage. Do not worry about pinholes as they will get filled by primer. You can safely paint over it an hour later.

>> No.2704835
File: 11 KB, 300x300, 58235cbc-fe50-44c8-aa76-73e087fae1d9.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX300_V1___.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704835

I have a bathroom door that leads into my master bedroom but the same bathroom has a door for the whole house to use it. There is a duality here where it means everyone can walk into my room at all times but if I put the lock only on my end it can look like I want the power to barge in on whoever is shitting. Is there such a thing as a dual sided privacy lock knob? The closest thing I can find is a deadbolt with keyholes on both ends but I would prefer a regular knob. The only solution I can think of is a normal privacy lock knob with a barrel lock on the other side but I feel like that would be kind of tacky. I could just be utterly retarded and not understand the inner workings of a privacy lock.

>> No.2704847
File: 2.44 MB, 3072x4080, PXL_20231101_235105396.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704847

Recently moved into my new house. The shop has this absolutely horrendous sub panel in it that I want to replace.

It's fed by a 30 amp breaker on the main panel.

I Plan on getting a new panel because I think this thing is a fucking fire hazard, can I do something with the inside breaker or whatever to make this a 240 circuit so I can use my welder? And if so is it possible to have just like one breaker be 240 and the others all be 120?

>> No.2704851

First time house buyer. I put down an offer on a house this weekend and it got accepted today. As part of their disclosures, they sent me some documentation that they had a burst pipe last year that did $35k of water damage. From what I can tell, they went on vacation in December, didn't leave their heat on when they left, and came home to a flooded house.
I'm obviously going to do my own inspection, but here are the facts
>they have documentation for all of the repairs that were done, which was signed off by insurance and inspectors
>there is no smell in the house at all, and no sign of lingering water damage
>no mold or other growth in the house
Thoughts on if this is a bad idea proceeding?

>> No.2704868

I live in a small apartment and am considering getting bigger dressers for more drawers but my current ones are quality old ones made with real wood, not junk. Not particleboard/MDF but wood wood as in probably pretty damn expensive if I tried to buy the equivalent today.

Cheapshit ikea stuff here would be nice for my current needs but if I ever move to a bigger home I'll probably wish I kept these since space won't be so tight.

Would it be easy to break down dressers into wood for future reassembly or is this something that can't really be done without compromising the structure?

It would feel bad to get rid of them but if I'm here for a few years it'll probably feel worse keeping them unless I can find a different way to store all my shit without replacing these.

For example one unit I'd replace is a ~60l 30h 6 drawer thing and I can easily get an 8 drawer or a wall unit style thing with tons of storage in its place.

>> No.2704870

>>2704490
>you might just 3d-print them
Thank you, that's an option I hadn't considerred. A co-worker has one, i'll ask him about it.

>> No.2704883
File: 274 KB, 1200x630, blog-before-buying-sliding-patio-doors-andersen-200s copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704883

Anyone know how well plastic window insulation kits work with these kind of large patio doors? Specifically ones with no bottom edge, like in picrel.
I assume it's doable by just taping it to the floor, but I feel like transitions between trim and floor would be hard to seal, especially if you use a hair dryer to shrink the plastic for tighter insulation.

>> No.2704889

>>2704847
>can I do something with the inside breaker or whatever to make this a 240 circuit so I can use my welder? And if so is it possible to have just like one breaker be 240 and the others all be 120?
If you don't already know the answer to this you don't need to be fvcking with it.
Get professional help.

>> No.2704890

>>2704868
>Would it be easy to break down dressers into wood for future reassembly or is this something that can't really be done without compromising the structure?
If it's as high quality as you implied earlier, you can't break it down.
Good quality furniture is assembled and shipped in one piece.

>> No.2704931
File: 337 KB, 1174x976, I happen to be an idiot on this particular subject.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2704931

>>2703729
Get some shelf brackets and use them the same way you would to put a shelf on a wall.

>> No.2704932

>>2704883
You can get a good seal, but you won't be able to use the door. Not an ideal situation IMO. You'll probably want to shovel the patio if you get a bunch of snow.

Seal the windows, not the door. I used to have a door like that in my old home and while it led to a screened in porch which might have reduced wind/etc it kept a decent seal so long as it was properly closed so I wouldn't worry too much about it. If anything just put some blankets or something down by the floor to insulate that if it has a poor seal.

>> No.2704933

>>2703876
Embrace the textured wall aesthetic and save yourself the effort.

>> No.2704934

>>2704868
Just get some stackable plastic drawers and put them on top of the dressers you have.

>> No.2704936

>>2704932
>You'll probably want to shovel the patio if you get a bunch of snow.
I don't need to worry about that, this is a ground-level "patio" door.
>some blankets or something down by the floor
Yeah, I already do that, but I feel like there's room for improvement.

>> No.2704937

>>2704633
Will it cause a flood if I don't unclog it?

>> No.2704996

>>2704526
Where exactly do I dig for the house footings? I was planning on putting the deck footings about 2 feet from the house so I'm assuming I have to dig closer to the house than that, like right up against the house. But how do I know where the actual footings are? Do I dig near a corner and just assume there will be a footing there?

>> No.2705058

>>2703859
DeWalt bits are trash, I think the best value lately has been the Bosch kit at Lowe's they're impact rated and cheap enough to buy new when you lose a few. Whatever you do, avoid Phillips fasteners as much as possible.

>>2704835
Can you draw a diagram of the layout? Is the only access to your bedroom through the bathroom? If not why can't both doors have your pic rel, locking from the inside and you just keep the "key" on your side for when you need to barge in on someone.

>>2704851
It's probably fine. Typically you would have seen that disclosure before you made an offer tho.

>> No.2705062
File: 417 KB, 740x555, 1304621672363.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705062

Are there any websites that have woodworking plans for projects like tables, benches, even birdhouses etc?
Google hasn't been much help, I do have some old "babby's first woodworking" books that contain some plans but they're all in feet/inches which is a pain in the ass.

>> No.2705073

>>2703754
thanks to everyone's suggestions. i'm going for dowel joint because there's several of these types of joints i need to make up the side of the unit.
got myself a dowel jig, just need to make sure i get everything aligned properly i guess

>> No.2705076

>>2704808
I'm asking why you would cobble together a tube goldberg psu when the camera is poe anyway.
Its plug and play with a higher voltage.

>> No.2705082

>>2704612
not him but i'd say the pipes are too narrow, so the suction isn't strong enough to overcome surface tension

>> No.2705083

>>2705070
should have posted my thread in here instead

>> No.2705122
File: 106 KB, 874x789, Screenshot_20231102-143221.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705122

I have a tub/shower combo thats around 15 years old now
one of the corners (imagine pic) has sunken slightly overtime, and it leads to water just sitting there, causing mold to fester.
Im going to be redoing the caulking since its all black and fucked even though i did it 2 years ago. But I think that corner may be the root cause of it
any way I can restore the corner and add a slight slope to it again? Or am I just fucked and will have to buy a new tub?

>> No.2705157
File: 38 KB, 1400x525, schunk.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705157

I've been working for some years on industrial automation and I have no clue about the following: can rotary units with an absolute encoder rotate "indefinitely"?

I'm working on a new machine which has a rotary table that rotates a product from point A to B in the same direction all the time. My company ordered pic related for it and I should program it. The software itself is no problem since we use the standard from our client which already has a function for it and the option of "modulo" movements.

What worries me is that after X rotations the thing completely breaks and shit gets completely fucked, or problems with precision after so many rotations, which is a big problem with this product. I only have experience with servomotors from robots or other kind of axes, which always had mechanical limits.

>> No.2705161

>>2705122
>any way I can restore the corner and add a slight slope to it again?
If you have access to the area beneath the actual tub area, see how it's supported.
You MAY be able to remove some of the support material (should be concrete but may be foam or wood) which would allow the tub to sink a little over time.

>>2705157
Shouldn't you be asking the manufacturer/supplier?

>> No.2705167
File: 26 KB, 1216x152, Screenshot_2023-11-02_16-10-13.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705167

>>2705157
>I've been working for some years on industrial automation and I have no clue

ok, if all your experience is with servos then I will cut you some slack, but jeez pal you really seem like you are in over your head. You should record the call when you ask them if it can rotate "indefinitely" and how long it takes for them to realize what you are asking. Maybe they have a "stupid question line" you could ask for.


Anyway, the spec doesn't say, because it's like a motor in that sense. Motors never say "unlimited rotation" because they just do. The maximum RPM in the spec is the closest thing to a cluestick that I could find.

>> No.2705168

>>2705157
>, or problems with precision after so many rotations,

Absolute means that it detects where it is now, not how much it has rotated. So the precision or accuracy or whatever has nothing to do with how it got there.

>> No.2705170
File: 431 KB, 320x320, 1643036563711.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705170

>>2705167

I know it's not about the motor but the encoder, and I'm sure it can rotate indefinitely. I just don't know how to ask it without sounding like a retard, as you suggested. And even if I did they would just mindlessly point me to your pic, which doesn't really answer my (poorly worded) question.

I know it just werks because it's very common in the medical industry, which I have zero experience of. But I need more information about maintenance and zeroing, which a salesman from Schunk can't really answer.

>>2705168
Yeah but does it vary over time? Do the measurements of encoders decrease over long periods of time? I know that (very simplified) absolute encoders know their position through a disc with a code (BCD, binary etc), but I don't know how reliable are these on the long term (1-5 years of continuous movement).


Thank you for your answers

>> No.2705175
File: 21 KB, 583x108, Screenshot_2023-11-02_16-35-01.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705175

>>2705170
>I don't know how reliable are these on the long term

Since they don't say, it seems that it is "digital" in that respect, meaning it either works per the spec or it doesn't work at all, not that it can drift over time. It seems like a quality product, and I'd expect it to last 5 years of continuous use, but the warranty is 2 years, and the "service life characteristics" are available on request, so why not request them.

>> No.2705181

>>2705175

Because of my experience, they are experts in their datasheets, which is understandable. But in real situations it tends to have a lot of other problems not on their knowledge.

I know the quirks of different motors and VFDs on the market but funnily enough, I never worked on tables that continuously turned on the same direction indefinitely, so I don't know if such products are idiot-proof enough to work a few years straight with barely any maintenance as most industrial devices nowadays do, or if I have to program a regular zeroing process in my software.

The only important info on their datasheet is that it has a precision of 0.1° every 100 turns, which is very ambiguous. Does that mean that after 1000 turns it has a precision of 1°? I guess I'll have a lengthy, silly conversation with them tomorrow.

>> No.2705186

>>2705170
Don't take this the wrong way, but how TF have you spent "some years on industrial automation" and aren't familiar with encoders in general? I DON'T work in industrial automation and I still know a few things.

>Do the measurements of encoders decrease over long periods of time?

The encoders themselves do not, regardless of whether it's an incremental or absolute encoder. There are niche situations in which this may happen (like wear in resistive strip encoders or a magnet for a Hall effect encoder getting too hot and being weakened), but they aren't common for appropriately-selected industrial equipment. If the encoder racks up many counts in one direction and the controller is using a too-small integer type to keep track, that can result in overflow/underflow bugs, but, again, that's a design failure, and shouldn't be expected for something like this.

>1-5 years of continuous movement

Non-contact encoder types (optical, magnetic, inductive, etc.) don't wear out. There may be eventually be issues with contamination, but the entire point of these types of encoders is that they don't really have a fixed lifespan. Your limits on maintenance intervals/lifespan is going to be determined by the mechanical assembly (bearings/seals), not the encoder.

>> No.2705190

>>2705170
The encoder is a fixed measuring device. If it were to start skipping or break you could determine this through a function to match output RPM to what the encoder should be reading. thats super simple.

Over a long enough term replacing the encoder would be either an as-needed operation or if you were using a cheap enough encoder you could make it part of the preventative maintenance of the equipment.

>> No.2705192
File: 7 KB, 420x67, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705192

>>2705181
>The only important info on their datasheet is that it has a precision of 0.1° every 100 turns, which is very ambiguous

No, it isn't. It's saying that, after the servo was commanded a position 100 times, the spread of the actual position it landed in was within a 0.1° spread (0.05° in either direction) of the commanded position.

>> No.2705193

>>2705161
i can't lift the actual tub, or at that point i may as well get it replaced
maybe there's some glaze i can use to redo the corner surface

>> No.2705195
File: 350 KB, 368x450, 1597497104653.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705195

>>2705186
>>2705192


So yeah I don't really need to think about that while developing my program is what you mean. It was never really my job but I'm curious about such things.

>>2705190
>If it were to start skipping or break you could determine this through a function to match output RPM to what the encoder should be reading

The standard functions of the client already do that internally, I think


So yeah as I assumed I just put too much thought into it and should just focus on my midwit PLC-program and commissioning it. My autism is pleased, thank you.

>> No.2705201

>>2705193
>i can't lift the actual tub,
I was actually suggesting you may have access from one end or the other, or the back side.
I don't know what is on the other side of the walls.

> just get a new tub
You do you...

>> No.2705221

>>2705058
>It's probably fine. Typically you would have seen that disclosure before you made an offer tho.
Yeah, they had mentioned it but the extent of it wasn't apparent until after I put in the offer.

>> No.2705233

>>2705201
i guess once i remove the caulking I might be able to lift it a bit, but what could I put under?

>> No.2705258
File: 11 KB, 1006x598, lock.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705258

>>2705058
This should get the point across.

>> No.2705308

ive asked numerous times. how do i search for traveling jobs on indeed.com? such as offshore oil rig worker, or truck driver for some random mine, or wind farm installer, or installing plexiglass covid barriers across the country?

what do i put as location?
do these jobs pay more?
is there a way to filter for like 2weeks on 2 weeks off?
id realllly prefer not to work 40hours a week in one location.

>> No.2705323

>>2703451
My neighbor is making a lot of noise. The kind of noise that they could avoid making if they just bought a pair of headphones.

I want to buy a loudspeaker, and place the speaker against the wall so the sound gets transmitted into their living space. And I want to figure out a means of insulating the speaker, or maximizing conductance of sound through the wall. That way I can just put on random loud noise to play throughout the night, which will wake them up, but won't wake me up.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can do this?

>> No.2705324

>>2705323
i assume you have already asked them to lower the volume, ya?

>> No.2705326

>>2705324
Yes, and I've tried submitting complaints to my local government

>> No.2705327

>>2705326
are the other neighbors bothered as well?

>> No.2705334

>>2705327
I'm the only person in my living space that's affected. The wall is very thin, but the door and carpet at the base of the door prevents sound getting out of the room. Essentially this means that if they play music or videos on their computer, I can hear it at about 60% volume. But if you stand outside the room with the door shut, you can't hear anything.

>> No.2705350
File: 37 KB, 500x500, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705350

This inlet valve which provides the water pressure to push shit/cum up my u-bend is clogged with shit and cum. It's the water inlet that doesn't push directly into the bowel (swirly maker holes), but it's the bit that is suppose to be responsible for providing the water pressure to push stuff around the u-bend.
How fix?I don't mind getting dirty.
Live in apartments. U-bend is not piped, it's embedded the frame of the toilet.

>> No.2705352

>>2705350
For reference, I've tried
>Bleach
>Drain cleaner
>Reaching in with steel wool
>Clog unjammer plastic tool thing with teeth
Nothing works.

>> No.2705371

>>2704677
>>2704701
stay butthurt tripfag

>> No.2705378

>>2704847
Bump for electrician advice

>> No.2705390

>>2705378
This, but plumbers.
pls help fix shitter, I don't wanna pay out my nose for oopsie-woopsie
>>2705350

>> No.2705396

>>2705378
>Bump for electrician advice
>>2704889
>Get professional help.

>> No.2705406
File: 283 KB, 1244x1672, person-flipping-switch-circuit-box-9503d191-fd87380da8964a6d821df8ee8e0b59b9[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705406

>>2704847
>>2705378
you obviously have no clue what you are doing, so what advice are you asking for? you expect someone to give you a complete run down on how to wire a sub panel?

240v comes into your house in a two phase configuration
your main panel is split into two separate rails, one phase per rail
to get 240v, you need a (big) breaker that touches both rails
to get 120v, you need a (small) breaker that only touches one rail

yes, you can have a sub panel that has both a 240v breaker and some 120v breakers. you need a run of 3 wire (+ground) from the main panel to your shop, off of a properly sized breaker for the wire and a properly sized sub panel

>> No.2705408

>>2705350
>>2705390
post a picture of your actual toilet

>> No.2705411

>>2705323
they make speakers that essentially turn a surface into a speaker. they are called vibration speakers. this will turn your wall into a speaker, but there really is no way for you to make this "one way", if your neighbor will hear it, you will hear it, so buy some ear plugs

>> No.2705414

>>2705408
>Post pic
My brother in christ, it's a toliet with a lightly corroded bottom. What help would a pic be?

>> No.2705415

>>2705308
you sound like a serial killer
>ive asked numerous times.
maybe you should have gotten the hint that perhaps this is the wrong board to ask? maybe try /adv/ or try a different job search website besides indeed

>> No.2705416

>>2705414
you realize that there are different toilets in the world, right? not everyone has the exact same toilet? take a picture of the inlet you're talking about or leave

>> No.2705418

>>2705416
Fair, I'm drunk. I guess I'd refrain as general advice. As above, so below - I have no access besides the usual opening of a typical amerifat toliet. Bowl, outlet at the bottom, ring of outlets under the lip of the bowl. There's literally no other service locations besides the tank and the outlet from where I want to clean, which links to the bottom of the bowl and up to the u-bend.
Was my 10/10 drawfag not enough?

>> No.2705450

whats the best dremel bits for doing moderately hard wood?

>> No.2705492

What steps do I need to take to buy land/build my own home?

Wife and I are checking out nc and ct to settle down at, but we have no idea where to start when it comes to this process.

>> No.2705510

>>2703565
I hope you either: wiped it with styrene the next day, covered it with peel ply that night or keyed it up the next day.

i assume it wasn't structural.

>> No.2705523
File: 177 KB, 1080x813, PXL_20231103_120139232.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705523

Is it safe to hang my gym rings here /diy/? These beams are supporting the roof so they should be pretty strong right? But they make some noise when I put weight on them. Is there any chance I can break them (I weigh 75 kg)?

>> No.2705528
File: 26 KB, 1006x598, 1698964246236260~2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705528

>>2705258
Too bad about the communal toilet near you bedroom, since that's the case I stand by what I said before. Put in two of the privacy knobs that lock from the inside and give guests the illusion they won't be barged in on and occasionally be locked out from your room or just delete one of the doors completely for a master bath.. only problem then is if you then get bathroom traffic through you bedroom and you still have everyone's shit stink settling in your space.

>> No.2705546

I've bought some replacement switches, but the new ones seem to have zinc plated screws and on quick inspection one of them looks a bit corroded already.

The old switches use what appear to be brass screws, is it worth swapping them over?

>> No.2705631
File: 986 KB, 1500x1448, 1681239691222139.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705631

I'm tired of these fuckers breaking every 6 months
is there an actually good one or are they all chink shit?

>> No.2705658

>>2705523
please I'm a diylet and I don't want to break the house

>> No.2705659

>>2705631
I've got some that are super basic friction things that've lasted over a decade, but they don't hold shit open without you tightening them back down every month or two, which I never bother doing. Just hold your shit open with one hand while you get something out of the cabinet with the other?

>> No.2705662
File: 28 KB, 480x360, truss force diagram.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705662

>>2705523
bro, just make a truss force diagram, sheesh

>> No.2705665
File: 95 KB, 660x495, basementfoundation.jpg.optimal.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705665

>>2704996
Doesn't matter where you dig so long as you're up against the foundation. The footing should be continuous, all the way around the perimeter of the foundation.

>> No.2705683

>>2705662
wouldn't I need to know the maximum load and the weight of the roof though?

>> No.2705687

>>2705659
>Just hold your shit open with one hand while you get something out of the cabinet with the other?
that's what I do but sometimes it's not an option
what would happen if I use a stronger one? like 120N instead of 80N

>> No.2705713

>>2705233
some sort of shim if you can jack up that corner of the tub without having to bust up your bathroom too much. another option is to use some epoxy to raise the sunken corner, and then reseal the tub with some bathtub/tile paint and the re caulk the area with some fresh silicon.

>> No.2705716

>>2705658
>>2705662
Yeah dude I don’t think 75kg is going to matter to a beam that holds up your entire roof. If you live somewhere with snow, that roof supports wayyyy more weight.

>> No.2705723

thread glue, silicon tape or a combination of both when attaching mtf brass extention fittings?

>> No.2705728

>>2705723
to old copper water pipes i forgot to add.

>> No.2705860 [DELETED] 
File: 34 KB, 500x500, 14610.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2705860

Will this stuff still work as a primer on any sections of clean non-rusty metal?
says it converts rust into primer but I'm not sure how good it'll be for the wider area around the work if I sand it out too far

>> No.2705928

>>2704665
>What sq footage do you need inside?
> can you pour a 5" thick slab then build a frame?
> can you attach siding and roofing?
It may cost 4x as much but not fucking with stupid problems after and having the right amount of space is win

>> No.2705929

>>2704667
Hang a gutter on the side?

Verify building code setbacks before you start.

>> No.2706083

>>2703983
Stop right now and call an electrician
>>2703984
>>2704002
>>2704014
You are hacks. If you think it's an MWBC then it would have a red wire and one white wire. If it's actually two separate circuits (not a recommended practice) then you have to ensure that the neutrals stay paired and not joined at the outlet.

New code requires pigtails at outlets, and it's a good thing.

>> No.2706086

>>2704478
There are one way valves for air (vents) that you could install above the reservoir. That is how gas tanks work, more or less.

>> No.2706092

>>2705170
>zeroing
Disconnect input, turn encoder to zero position, reconnect encoder.

The point of it being absolute is that the apparatus will not require calibration on startup. It is extremely likely that the device has a "calibrate" mode where you place the turntable or arm or whatever to its zero position and tell it to accept this as the new standard. An absolute encoder usually has some optical wheel or magnetic track that the encoder uses to identify its position. In calipers however, they typically use a relative encoder and replicate absolute function by operating even with the display off when it is manipulated. If you take the battery off, it will "forget" its position.

>> No.2706093

>>2705170
Also if it's out of alignment, it is possible that mechanical damage has occurred. The encoder has to be connected mechanically to the thing it measures, probably with some gear reduction, so if a tooth on a gear is broken, it could skip and accumulate an offset.

>> No.2706101

>>2705723
>thread glue
>silicon tape
>mtf brass extension fitting
Can you use actual words?

>> No.2706135

I need to finish my bathroom but don't want to use tiles. What is the watertight alternative to the tiles that would work in living house?

>> No.2706268

>>2705523
if you have access to the attic, then why not just find a joist with a better location and put some eye bolts into the joist?

>> No.2706269

>>2705723
you need to stay away from your plumbing system

>> No.2706368

>>2705723
>brass extension fillings
I filled your mom's brass extension if you know what I mean
>>2706269
I definitely didn't stay away from your mom's plumbing system IYKWIM
>>2706268
I put some eye bolts into your mom's joist when I accessed her attic (if you catch my drift)

>> No.2706453 [DELETED] 
File: 720 KB, 1192x792, IMG_1613.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706453

GE dishwasher problem. A month ago I changed out the main board. Today, all power gone. Wiggling this power cord restores power. But this the weird part, I can’t wiggle it in a way to disconnect power.

So I wiggle it works for a while, runs a cycle maybe, and then disconnects again. Small wiggle works again. But when it’s plugged in, I can only disconnect it by fully unplugging it. Partial unplug, whatever, nothing breaks the power.

Is this possibly some other thing going on?

>> No.2706487

>>2704711
Email Luxe. Their customer service is great. I got a full replacement for mine over less.

>> No.2706491

>>2705258
Put a deadbolt on one side and the doorknob lock on the other. Then put in a peep hole so you can keep perving.

>> No.2706586
File: 12 KB, 346x396, sink.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706586

How do I clear the pipe that goes into the wall? As soon as the trap at the plug fills the water starts going up the sink.
I've tried removing the plug and going at it from below but the angle is too steep. There is a grate at the bottom of the sink I didn't draw so it's hard to get anywhere from up top too.
Pouring cleaning fluids or hot water in the sink mostly traps it at the plug so it doesn't seem to do anything about the blockage.

>> No.2706592

>>2706586
Surely if you just drain the plug and then refill with hot water or whatever it'll go into the pipe?

I'd be surprised if the whole thing is one piece, shit design if so. Cut off the pipe and fit a proper u-trap that's removable, push fittings are fine for most drains. If you can't do that, I'd just get one of those drain snake things and see if you can get it around the angle.

>> No.2706609
File: 84 KB, 689x919, IMG_1396.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706609

>>2706592
I just now managed to fix it by chance because I had bought a new hose for the shower and it fit the bathtub faucet next to the sink. Apparently the problem wasn't in the pipe further in or at least it didn't look like it. After attaching the new hose, removing the plug and dialing the flow to max I jammed it up from below and rotated it to hit everything it could (hoping to get some pressure into the pipe and removing the obstruction). Loads of black sludge and hair came loose and landed in the bucket I had below it. Putting things back together it now flows clean and nicely.

It seemed like a weird design because it was double walled when I looked from below through the plug. The center was somewhat clear before but the outer layer was completely caked up. Right before the hosing I severely bent a toothbrush and scrubbed all I could, didn't seem to do a lot but might have loosened it enough for the hose to get it.

I tried disassembling it at first but this thing haven't been taken apart since this was built in the 50s and I was worried to break something when the force needed to get somewhere became too much.

Pic related.

>> No.2706662
File: 67 KB, 652x709, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706662

I've got 2 cars in storage over the winter and want to keep my batteries alive. I have a charger and timer already.
Is picrel a dumb idea?

>> No.2706668

>>2706662
Trickle chargers are cheap, you could do 2 of them and avoid the whole timing mechanism.

I don’t see why you couldn’t parallel them with one charger. I’m sure there’s some crazy outlier event that would make safety fags go nuts, like if one battery had a cell die randomly, then you might have some issues.

>> No.2706671

>>2706662
How fucked are your batteries? I go out every couple of months to charge mine, it's not enough of a hassle to bother hooking up trickle chargers and shit.

>> No.2706676

>>2706671
The batteries are fine now, but if I leave them unattended they're not going to survive the winter, ask me how I know.
The garage they're standing at is relatively far away from me and I'd prefer not having to drive out there once a month just to connect a charger for an hour.

>>2706662
If I had to buy a charger or a trickle charger I'd agree, but I've already got the charger and timer, so why not use that.

>> No.2706677

>>2706676
second answer was for >>2706668

>> No.2706682
File: 1.04 MB, 942x2642, why diy when you can buy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706682

>>2706668
more A+ advice from our village idiot

>> No.2706683

>>2706662
I know it seems like a way to save a few bucks, but if one battery is really good and the other is getting bad then this setup is going to fuck them both up.
It'll overcharge the good battery and/or undercharge the bad one.
And there's also some safety issues.
The biggest thing is don't let the batteries get too cold.

>> No.2706708

I got a TIG machine off craigslist, for welding experience I have beginner's knowledge and took a college course. Above 60 amps it trips the breaker for the sockets in my garage. I'm a terrible electrician (really only passing knowledge of it), what's the remedy? Is 60 amps enough to get in more practice and experiment? I was mostly planning to do a lot of sheet metal around 16 gauge. Currently I have the machine plugged into a surge strip so that shuts off the power to it, instead of tripping the breaker for when I'm extra retarded and go over.

>> No.2706711

How do I get started learning the basics of architecture and architectural software like Sketchup?

>> No.2706720

>>2706711
Unironically books. Free online sources (which aren't piracy) suck universally. If not per resource then because it's all fragmented to hell in different places. Videos suck ass to revisit when you can't just ctrl+f or flip the index.
For the software, pirate it and do guides on basic stuff to learn it roughly.

>> No.2706723

>>2706720
Anything more specific?

>> No.2706724

>>2706723
Not really, literally google "basics of architecture literature" or "learning sketchup".

>> No.2706741
File: 94 KB, 258x586, 1699212929311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706741

>>2706711
> architectural software like Sketchup

>> No.2706784

Anyone have a good floor bearer span chart? Looking to cover a single span of 2.3m with a FLW of 3m using good old dimensional lumber.

>> No.2706809
File: 3.23 MB, 4032x3024, 20231106_084841.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706809

This shit is intermittently dripping but I'm not really sure how to fix it. I've been watching YouTube videos but all the videos I've seen have been for more modern taps than this. How exactly do I go about repairing a dripping tap when the set up is this old?

>> No.2706817

>>2706677
>>2706682
I’m just saying Anon wouldn’t be asking if there was any concern. It’s probably safe but I bet you could find a horror story. And you have to decide if you would rather spend $20 on two trickle chargers or parallel it and risk that slim chance that something goes wrong. Pretty sure two batteries of different voltage can send a lot of current when paralleled.

There’s all the boat trickle chargers and shit too with 2-4 outputs for multiple paralleled batteries.

>> No.2706820

>>2706809
Feels like you need to access whatever is behind the wall? I can't see any parts that would be able to be tightened, adjusted or easily replaced.

>> No.2706821

>>2706809
>repairing a dripping tap when the set up is this old?
This link is for a bathtub faucet but it is the most similar to your set that I found.
Pop off the white cap to get to the screw holding the handle on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1_zrvpg0es

>> No.2706903

>>2703980
bro what the fuck are those stairs?
are you trying to murder people with that? wtf?

Tear that shit down and get something proper build instead ASAP
also yes, you want bracing, but what you pictured shows you can't be trusted as you don't understand the basics

You need to brace diagonally, or at least drive the beams into a solid foundation and use metal reinforcements at the joints because nails aren't gonna stop that bending at all because the underlying structural instability due to shear force is not prevented with that design. Maybe it'll lessen a bit but won't be a longterm solution without diagonal/metal bracing+proper foundation for the supports.

Seriously go DIY something else, not your stairs. You're supposed to DIY not DIE. Please don't fuck with stairs if you're not gonna do it right.

>> No.2706918
File: 2.02 MB, 5152x3864, out.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706918

i gotta replace this, it is leaking..but i dont know what it is exactly? what kind of gasket is this?

>> No.2706920
File: 129 KB, 1426x1443, 61H5Wvb+8wL._AC_SL1500_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706920

>>2704539
>The simplest solution to accomplish this without using any kind of valves or controls is to use 2 tubes

No, it's to use just one tube.

This is a solved problem Like holy shit, I'm a shut-in, but do some of you people ever leave the house?

>> No.2706953

>>2706918
no-hub coupling

>> No.2706976
File: 4 KB, 225x225, 1679980055329498.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706976

>>2706953

>> No.2706986
File: 2.96 MB, 4000x3000, 20231105_220304.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706986

This was on the inside of my hall closet when I moved in. Can anyone tell me what it is?

>> No.2706988

>>2703451
It's to the frost line or as outlined by your city building code
>>2703519
People do this often

>>2703654
They're pretty similar to DeWalt mid level stuff imo

>>2706918
I had this issue
Had to replace the coupling after using a steel file to smooth out the contact areas

>>2706809
You'll likely have to replace the control valve in the wall to fix it

>>2706784
Google "joist span chart" clock on images

>>2706708
Please consult an electrician with all the info.
Your post is horrifying

>>2706135
Decorative Fiberglass panels like they use in Marriott showers
Lvt for flooring

>>2705546
It shouldn't matter

>>2705492
Have 20% down and a bank to give you a mortgage for the rest.
Get pre-approved for the mortgage then put in an offer

>>2705122
I'd remove the caulking and try an auto dent removal suction cup

>> No.2706994

>>2704770
Take it into Menards and buy one that's identical

>> No.2706996
File: 228 KB, 686x516, tiftuf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2706996

What's a good turf type? I have 3 dogs and it'll have mild foot traffic. I hate buffalo, couch is ok but widely I want something with thin blades, weed resistent, dog piss resistent. Been looking at tif tuf Bermuda but I dunno if I'm being lied to

>> No.2707006

I like woodworking and want to learn how to make classical style furniture, Louis XV style, the whole thing, but can't find anything on how to get an apprenticeship. I know there's a school for that but it's very expensive

>> No.2707007

>>2707006
Start with pre-school chairs and work your way up. You don't learn to drive in a f1 car

>> No.2707024
File: 33 KB, 474x474, OIP (11).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707024

>>2706986
Broom/mop holder.

>> No.2707031

>>2707024
Thanks

>> No.2707037

I'm going to be bolting pieces of hot dipped galvanized steel together for an outdoor non-moving structure. Should I put some kind of antisieze or grease between the flat pieces of metal as I bolt them together or am I being a retard?

>> No.2707048

>>2705157
What you need is something less computerized and purely electrical/mechanical. If all it has to do is turn one way at one speed, then a simple motor and wheel is all you need.

>> No.2707051

>>2707037
A little bit of prevention goes a long way in 30 years, but it's not that difficult to just angle grind pieces apart if they manage to rust away into nothing. Personally I wouldn't give a shit on most outdoor semi-permanent structures.

>> No.2707054

>>2706676
>I've already got the charger and timer, so why not use that?
Just because you have a hammer, doesn't mean you can treat screws as nails. There is a purpose built tool exactly for your use case, just use it.

>> No.2707080
File: 241 KB, 2282x1627, 71jaGDt6HES.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707080

can you have a listen and say if this is a normal sound? there seems to be a buzz when the trigger is quarterly pressed. the drill does not rotate at this level or pressure but there's a buzz.

if you want to listen
https://vocaroo.com/1nLhK6LLtZ36

you'll hear a buzz before the drill starts. it's a gbh 220.

>> No.2707106

>>2706988
>Google "joist span chart" clock on images
Looking for floor bearer span chart, not joist span chart.

>> No.2707142

Hey lads, I'd like to molds out of MDF cutouts for boardgames. I was wondering if there was an easier way than pouring silicone. I'm only looking at one piece molds that I can pour plaster into. Any suggestions ? Also does the fibrous material slurp up the silicone if I can only go that route?

>> No.2707152

>>2707106
In america we call them beams and theyre usually in with the same information as the joist spans
Literally never heard them called bearers before

You can also look up total load and calculate based on what it's holding
Remember that you're limited by the weakest point in your structure.
When I built my deck, I wanted to use 4x4s and 12" piles (4' deep in my area) so I had to add an extra one compared to other layouts but then my beam could be smaller dimensions and the whole project was as cheap as possible while being up to code

>> No.2707154

>>2707142
I would spray the mdf with 2-3 coats of polyurethane or similar and then I would oil the shit out of it before pouring

You can use epoxy, polyester, plaster, cement (not concrete), vinyl ester, anything that will cure and not just dry

With deep pour epoxy, you can mix color or other things into it to do cool shit but then I would do 3 coats of spar varnish/urethane to stop UV ambering

>> No.2707155

>>2707080
It's normal on older brushed tools. My experience with ones that have variable speed is that they tend to do that. Not sure if it has to do with not enough juice going through to actually spin the motor instead of it just stalling out.

>> No.2707159

>>2707152
To add onto this, there's stuff that you can use as a reusable putty for making press molds. Would there be something like this ( not necessarily reusable ) that I could neatly press MDF terrain into? So as to avoid the messy silicone pouring ?

>> No.2707177

>>2703451
is there any ways to diy a kotatsu for cheap without it being a fire hazard?

>> No.2707193

>>2707051
I have some spare red n tacky that I go through very slowly so I'll just give it a thin coat of that and call it a day, thanks.

>> No.2707214

how do you couple shaft with a 608zz bearing

>> No.2707220

>>2707214
You buy a shaft the right size, then you push it on.

>> No.2707222

>>2707220
it's supposed to be 8mm inside dia
when i use a 8mm shaft in it there is still a little space
using a thin layer of plastic works

>> No.2707237

>>2707222
Something is the wrong size.
The hole can only be 8 microns off on the smaller side (7.992-8.000mm). Steel shaft should have j5 tolerance class or greater iirc for a press fit

>> No.2707252
File: 34 KB, 500x334, bottletrap.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707252

>>2706609
You have a bottle trap. The water from the sink comes down the inner part and then flows out from the outer part -- the area between the two walls is where crap accumulates which every once in a while has to be taken apart and cleaned out because unlike P-traps you can't just snake it or plunge it.

>> No.2707277

>>2707252
Thanks for the explanation. Guess I was lucky I could just clear it with some water pressure from below.

>> No.2707410
File: 85 KB, 605x877, 1699302574228076.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707410

Anyone would be willing to tutor me and do my CNC gcode assignment? Im in my first semester so it should be easy. Willing to pay with paypal 40 leafbux. US or canadian preferred. Give me a you and ill send my discord

>> No.2707415
File: 1.58 MB, 4032x3024, 9440B22B-5A9E-4B3E-BBB2-98C9E67A4663.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707415

the male prongs on my t5 bulb are pushed in and there appears to be a crack in the 'cap'
is this safe to use over a fish tank?

>> No.2707416

>>2706609
>>2707277
those traps are trash and pretty sure a code violation in all 1st world countries

cut it out and replace it with a standard p trap, looks like you have plenty of room for one

>> No.2707417

>>2707415
why risk killing your fish with mercury? just buy a new bulb, or people give them away for free all the time because LED are multitudes better

>> No.2707419

>>2707410
you're willing to pay someone instead of just watching a couple <<<free>>> youtube videos?

>> No.2707420

>>2707214
liquid nitrogen on the shaft

>> No.2707421

>>2707080
buzz is caused by vibration, which means it's trying to spin but can't

try opening up the drill and replacing the grease, check the bearings, and may as well replace the brushes too while you're working on it

>> No.2707425

>>2707152
Alright I'm gonna scour google for floor beam span charts. After taking into account the FLW, dead load and live load, I've calculated that the line load the beam needs to be able to take is no less than 6 kN/m, but that isn't making it any clearer for me what size it needs to be. I can add extra piles no problem, but 2.3m didn't seem like a long distance to span in the first place, idk maybe it is.

>> No.2707457
File: 26 KB, 894x658, QL80_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707457

WWYD with a yard of chromium coated 3/4 copper tube?

>> No.2707461

>>2707457
>chromium
it might be nickel since it's magnetic which somewhat ruins the original plan for it as a demonstration of magnetic flux, it's also stiff and not coil worthy

>> No.2707476

>>2705076
Oh ok. The cameras I have worked with are all 12V.

>> No.2707541

>>2705928
2 feet by 4 or 5 ft should be enough. I'm just trying to have shovels, brooms, weed eater out of the elements. House had a crappy shed that is falling apart. I want to rent the garage, and have an 8 foot ladder I would also want a spot for.

I guess it makes more sense to build it myself. They don't sell sheds tall enough for my ladder.

>> No.2707565

>>2707417
so youre implying that thats a seal, not a cap

>> No.2707567

>>2707417 #
so youre implying that thats a seal, not a cap

or youre implying "better safe than sorry"

thank you
for your input

>> No.2707576

>>2707416
Rented apartment so I'm not sure I could do that. It works fine now and I can clean it if it happens again so it doesn't really bother me unless there's something else really shitty about it?

>> No.2707694
File: 64 KB, 645x729, 1000000609.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707694

I have a wall outlet that won't power shit and I'm kinda baffled by what's happening, probably because I'm a bit tarded. I tested it with my meter and it came back as 116VAC. Cut the breaker and tested resistance and it came back OL. Why would I be getting 116 volts if it's reading as having no continuity?

>> No.2707711

>>2707694
>Cut the breaker and tested resistance and it came back OL. Why would I be getting 116 volts if it's reading as having no continuity?
If the breaker is turned off, then the circuit is open and it SHOULD show no continuity.

>> No.2707720

>>2707711
Ok, I'm confused why it won't power stuff then

>> No.2707725

I don't know if this post is more suited for /adv/, but I'd like feedback from some strangers. First time home buyer. Spoke to a loan officer today and the reality of how fucked interest rates are now is really hitting me.
Currently bringing home a bit over $5.5k a month. Already putting in some of my paycheck to a retirement fund pre-tax.
Back-of-the-napkin estimates put my monthly mortgage payments at around $2.3k, $800 for taxes, $700 for a car purchase loan I made last year, and about $1k for everything else. This still leaves me with around $900 wiggle room a month, which is a huge change from my previous bills which was unironically around $200 (living at home and parents refused to charge me rent).
My friends are all insisting that I'll be fine especially because I'm single, but I'm still feeling nervous. I realize most of that is due to it being a big change, but am I still in a good position?

>> No.2707729

>>2707725
Also should mention a few other items
Just got my master's so I'm expecting a raise sometime in the future but I don't want to use that as part of my calculation.
My parents are very generous. I don't like asking them for much at all but they will certainly be helping out in the beginning, also don't want to include that in my calculation either.

>> No.2707744

>>2707725
>buying a house right now
>putting money into a retirement fund
Look, buddy, I'll spell it out for you. You're absolutely, utterly fucked. I would highly recommend purchasing a firearm and one round for it, you'll be in desperate need of it within the next decade.

>> No.2707752

>>2707694
Busted outlet maybe?
Does ANYTHING light up in it?
Perhaps the breaker is broken and the only reason you're reading 116 is because of capacitance.

>> No.2707756

>>2707744
The alternative is waiting a few years and rates/prices become exponentially worse

>> No.2707779

Okay I've got an extremely rusty muffler that needs to be welded back onto a tractor.
Tree limb snapped it off, bent the pipes a bit.
Any advice?
I know I shouldn't try welding on 70% rust, so what should I do?
Will probably replace it in the springtime the proper way, but we need to use it for winter snow.

>> No.2707790

>>2707725
>but am I still in a good position?
If you're spread so thin that getting laid off from your job or getting hurt would have a good chance of leading you to default on your mortgage, then you're not in a good position IMO.

>>2707756
prices right now are hovering at the highs that they arrived at during COVID's historically unprecedented low interest rates and wild market conditions. We're likely to see some prices relaxing as time goes on (at least in the most inflated areas) due to people who have adjustable rates losing their shirts in addition to the looming stagnation period that will probably come. Looking at previous market cycles suggests the same thing.
The only way that COVID era pricing was even possible was because of the fantastically low rates.

>> No.2707798

>>2707790
>If you're spread so thin that getting laid off from your job or getting hurt would have a good chance of leading you to default on your mortgage, then you're not in a good position IMO.
I have an additional 50k in savings, I guess then answer is I'll be ok then?

>> No.2707815
File: 2.73 MB, 3024x4032, 1699389123552.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707815

After a rain we find a puddle of water inside. The puddle is near this chimney. Does the chimney cause our leak?

Would you remove these CMUs yourself or hire it out? It's at church.

>> No.2707817
File: 3.07 MB, 2177x2903, 1699389674842.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707817

>>2707815

>> No.2707848

>>2707815
Can you get up in the attic or at least get a good look at the underside of the roof? Make sure it’s not leaking right around the chimney.

And how much do you want to remove? Down to the original brick? There must be a reason they added those, might not want to tear them down without consulting a pro.

>> No.2707849

>>2707694
Try switching around the breaker and see if that fixes the issue. If it does, then buy a new breaker. Also check voltage under load. Try plugging in a space heater and see what its at.

>> No.2707850

>>2707779
Use one of those stainless exhaust clamps until you can replace it

>> No.2707851
File: 191 KB, 1688x1124, wp4075665.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707851

How do you fix an impact crack in a mirror? Everything I read says nail polish, superglue or epoxy, but I don't have any special equipment to force it in the cracks like windscreen repair shops use. Also could be difficult to get access to the back, as the glass looks like it's stuck to the backing.

>> No.2707855

>>2707815
>>2707817
Where is the chimney cap?

>> No.2707858

>>2707851
>How do you fix an impact crack in a mirror?
If it's a rear-view mirror on a car, you can buy stick-on cut-to-fit mirrors for < $20

>> No.2707863
File: 40 KB, 894x782, riowbe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2707863

are ryobi drills supposed to be incredibly weak? i have three used ryobi drills and none of them will drive a screw all the way into a 2x4, even with a fucking pilot hole. did i get bad luck on these three or are they all pieces of shit?

i see a lot of the old blue ryobi drills for $10-15 on offerup and craigslist. should i assume those will fail the screw into 2x4 test and not even bother?

i guess the other option is a $60 brushless ryobi drill from amazon w/ receipt and warranty. i would like to spend less if possible.

>> No.2707864

>>2707863
Brushed ryobi are trash
Brushless are contractor tier

>> No.2707865

>>2707863
selector or top [1|2]
select [1]

>> No.2707870

>>2707858
It's a bathroom mirror and not cheap. Hence I'd prefer to repair it if possible.

>> No.2707947

>>2707850
Hmm yeah maybe,but I already have a few things to weld.
Got plenty of hose clamps so yeah.

>> No.2708053

how do I "destroy" a nickel electrolyte so I can throw it away? I'm assuming just throw in a piece of metal with a large area and just let it run until it pulls out as much nickel as possible?

>> No.2708058
File: 1.11 MB, 1920x1080, firefox_4wgrn4rH16.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708058

Is there a name for this specific type of fastener? Besides that really generic crap that aliexpress says. Or at least somewhere to buy it in the US where I can get it before December.

>> No.2708085

>use laser cutter to cut some text out of a metal plate (or use SendCutSend for the same purpose)
>fill in the text with a colored epoxy substance
I assume that this is a thing you can do. What kind of epoxy would be appropriate?

>> No.2708129

>>2707863
Which batteries are you using? Do you still have the old yellow NiCd batteries? If that’s the case, the issue is the 15+ year old batteries, not the tool

>> No.2708148
File: 31 KB, 800x450, 8af7f338-27fe-4da1-8740-06e442898842.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708148

>>2703451
I'm looking at a house where there's water damage on the ceilings below the toilets.
The toilets are mostly missing parts (a seat, bowl cover, etc) and the toilet paper holders are all missing.
The house is on a septic system and was pumped last year.
How much damage could a septic backup cause to a house? What are the future ramifications on the house of such an event?

>> No.2708190

>>2707237
so what do i do now

>> No.2708238

>>2705631
Are you orientating them the right way with the thicker bit up and the piston that comes out facing down, like in the middle bottom picture?

>> No.2708254

>>2708148
>what are the ramifications of having piss and shit flow into your house
I think you answered your own question.

>> No.2708257

>>2707865
all setting fail to push a screw all the way into a 2x4 and stall out instead

>>2707864
>Brushed ryobi are trash
so all entry level ryobi drills (even like-new used) will fail the screw-through-2x4 test?

>>2708129
bepis, i am using newer green ryobi drills with new batteries. i am wondering if any of those old AF ryobie drills for $10-15 have a chance at being a replacement for my weak (possibly dead) drills. i dont wanna pony up the $60 for a single drill. i am neet and have way more free time than money

>> No.2708258

>>2708254
kek. But is it possible for the shit tank in the ground to backfire and shoot shit out of toilets on the second floor with such force to break the toilet paper holder mounted to the wall?

>> No.2708262

>>2708257
Does the drill shut off or is it stalled?

They have anti-smack you in the face shit so if it thinks it stuck on something that's gonna jerk the drill around it stops power and breaks the motor

If you can make the drilling go smoother it might help. Or an impact driver will also do it

>> No.2708276
File: 1005 KB, 3021x1470, B69DA016-BF38-4641-9A85-4B34DA06EFE8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708276

What is the formula for the correlation between x and yin this drawing.
Or put another way, how many CFM fan do I need to achieve 24” of water column vacuum inside the container?
Trying to create a makeshift bubble scrubber for nitric acid fumes.

Asking here before I makes separate thread

>> No.2708312
File: 187 KB, 720x1426, Screenshot_20231108-163113.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708312

>>2708058
If you're okay with it being permanent, you can go to any large hardware store and grab one of these
Just use screws with a good head (t25 or something) so you can remove them

>>2708276
It depends on the diameter of the container
I would get something over 300cfm that you can put on a variable switch

>>2708148
You're going to have to tear all the wall/ceiling covering off and remove all the mold

If water sat around stubs long term, you might need to replace those studs
I'd assume you'll need to replace floor sheathing and inspect everything single floor joist connection for deterioration

>>2708085
Dark colored
Epoxy ambers
If you do light color, put on 3 coats of spar on top to block uv


>>2708053
Depends on the solution and ions . Might have to electrify/ plate something

>>2707851
Mirror glass is stupid cheap from a glass supplier Just replace it

>>2707815
If you can get up against the roof that shed water around the chimney, see if it's water damaged.
I would get a quart of fiber reinforced elastomeric, chip brush and a chimney cap

>>2707694
The contactors are shit
Replace the $2 outlet
Even Walmart sells outlets

>>2707457
Add a closet rod to my closet

>> No.2708316

>>2707425
I have 3 piles on a 12'wide deck that comes 8' out from the house with a double 2x8or10 beam
I calculated total load in lbs or something and then verified on some online calculator
A12' beam in the middle of a house usually needs to be a triple 14x1.75lvl or something
It really depends and you need the information for your area

>> No.2708335

>>2708262
the drill stalls out when i try to get the last bit of screw in. I have an impact gun, but shouldnt a screw gun be able to get a god damn screw all the way into a piece of wood?

>> No.2708393

My souldering experience is little to none. I've been trying to follow a tutorial video for soldering some LEDs for a wh40k plasma gun. I got the trigger and every set up according to the video, but can't see how the fuck he connects all the lights to the power (Also its a silent fucking video). Can one wire go across all 4 short legs of the light and one on the long? Or how the fuck is he doing it?
Link to video
https://youtu.be/tb2gOJe_Cbo?si=TAScmrPb3TDD9-NG

>> No.2708396

>>2708393
That's how he's doing it, they're wired in parallel, not in series. Just make sure positive goes to positive, etc.

>> No.2708397

>>2708396
Thank you. Just getting into electrical projects and I don't want to fuck it up.

>> No.2708401

>>2708335
Depends
12v stuff usually doesn't have enough torque to put 3" screws in
Even Worx 20v drill struggles with #9x3" screws

Impacts are made to get the most torque out of the least power

>> No.2708440
File: 889 KB, 637x825, A925_DOHC_Hemi_6_Lg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708440

>>2703451
If I'm tapping some aluminum to bolt something straight to it, how thick should it be? I don't need a ton of torque. It's going to be a grip bolted to a plate with maybe two pounds on it. I know I probably need to give more info like 6061, 7018, 6969 or forged or whatever, but I don't know much about that. I ordered a small plate of 3/8" for testing.

>> No.2708457
File: 24 KB, 463x551, screwdriver.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708457

>>2708335
>but shouldnt a screw gun
It's a drill. It's for drilling holes.
If you want to drive screws via a battery-powered device, get a tool designed for that.

>> No.2708460
File: 598 KB, 3109x1523, mirror.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708460

>>2708312
It's a huge-ass mirror with a mirror frame. The crack is in the frame. The mirror strips that cover the frame have a tapered edge, so I don't know where to find someone who could replace them.

>> No.2708474
File: 665 KB, 4022x2785, studs2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708474

>>2703451
I’m trying to install this pullup bar in picrel interior door frame: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RQVG3LH

It mounts with 4 lag bolts that are supposed to go into a king stud. The yellow stickers where I found metal with a magnetic studfinder. I didn’t find any metal 3” from the door edge, but I guess the drywall could be mounted onto the jack and not the king.

If I install the lag bolts where the pink stickers are, will I be safely in a stud that can support 200lb?
Or should I drill to look for a king 3” from the door edge?
How can I make sure that I’m centered in the stud?

If it matters, the ceiling is about 4’ above the door frame, and behind the right side of the door is a perpendicular interior wall.

>> No.2708492

If I want to butt join 3/4” MDF is there really any screw that I can screw into the edges without tearing the hole? Even with predrill holes and lowest setting on the electric drill my normal screws sometimes tear out

>> No.2708523

Should I wait to buy recreation land until I have time to use it or buy it now and just wait? I would buy it several hundreds of miles away because I live in a city. I know how to avoid adverse possession claims.

>> No.2708537

>>2708523
I would go check on it at least once a month

>>2708492
Mdf is just generally bad material to work with
I would use a bunch of MDF glue (really runny) and then I would countersink 2-3" cabinet screws using the fast cap tool

>>2708474
The stickers just outside of the trim should be the king stud. The trim would cover the jack studs

>>2708460
Looks like those are individual mirror strips each beveled to give that look. You just need to take a heat gun and gently remove the bottom 2, then Google "glass supplier" or "glass wholesaler" or even call around to lumber yards if you really refuse to find the place that supplies glass to all the shower door and window guys

>> No.2708539

>>2708440
The aluminum will be the weakest point so as long as your aluminum is strong enough to hold, the bolt can be fairly small
Remember that a steel bolt against aluminum will become hydrolyzed and make the aluminum rot so use plastic washers or soak the area in dielectric grease

>> No.2708556
File: 977 KB, 960x1280, 1673779621744308.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708556

>>2708238
actually not
why is that the right way? there's no info on the instructions whatsoever

>> No.2708580
File: 55 KB, 864x415, tumblr_7f7a241b304609908dc75f046ea05831_19be7ab4_1280.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708580

How close is "too close" to the wall or a window for shelves? I want to add a few 30"x14" shelves to my bedroom but the spot they would be in is close to the corner where two walls meet, and the other wall has a window a few inches from the corner. Is there a certain distance away from a window the shelves should be or does it not really matter?

>> No.2708589

>>2708556
It may be whatever the DIY version of Fudlore is, but supposedly the body holds an oil or grease that maintains the seal of the extending piston. Mounting it upside down like that means the lubricant collects at the bottom and lets the seal dry out which kills it.

>> No.2708645
File: 115 KB, 1354x1178, file.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708645

i bought a safe that i want to mount to the wall. i went to the local hardware store and asked a guy what i should use for the load (14kg safe plus maybe 30 kg load, so up to 50kg or something) in a hollow brick wall.
he gave me some mounting hardware that is rated for up to 90kg in hollow brick, which is fine, i doubt they would have something specifically for 50kg.
its been a time since i bought the mounting hardware and i didt really look at it until my safe arrived and now i saw that this mounting hardware will not only be permanently installed into the wall with some special mortar, the bolts will also stick out a fair bit unless i modify the mounting hardware.
but the real problem is that there is apparently no intended way for the bolts to be removed afterwards without ripping a huge hole into the brick wall and covering it up.
is there some other way for me to mount an up to 50kg load in a hollow brick wall, ideally with something that can be removed somewhat cleanly/easily? i was thinking about some big dowel or something. and the mounting kit i have is pretty close to that but the mortar is not just there to fix the mounting hardware into the wall but also the bolts at the same time.

>> No.2708659
File: 119 KB, 585x391, 1673045518636702.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708659

What parameters should one look at in case of an air compressor?By that i mean how big the tank should be for general usage,how long do they last in one session? What can i do with a small 9L tank compared to a bigger 24L one? What about the horsepower? Something like 550W vs 1500?
Also how much does it matter if the motor is oil-free or not,made out of copper?

>> No.2708668

is there any reason other than bullshit codes I don't care about that I shouldn't put a 20 amp gfci outlet on a 15 amp circuit? 20 amp gfci outlets are cheaper, and I have exactly zero appliances with a 20 amp plug, so theoretically there should be no issue, right?

>> No.2708670

>>2708659
Compressors are rated for their output at various pressures, usually CFM at a given psi in the US. Figure out what tools you plan to use with it, and then look at their requirement for both pressure and output to match it up. Having a larger tank allows you to run the tool longer while letting the pump cool down, and gives you more reserve for things like blowguns which will outpace the pump. Horsepower and wattage will be related to the output which is what you need to pay attention to. If all you're doing is inflating tires, the smallest shittiest compressor will do that while you would need a large gasoline powered compressor for a jackhammer. For "general usage" you'll want something in between, but again it depends on the tools you'll use. You can get away with using a compressor that won't keep up with your tools, but you'll have to take breaks while working for the tank to refill. Oil-free pumps are supposedly quieter, but don't have the lifespan of an oiled pump. They also have the benefit of not releasing oil mist into the air stream which you would need to filter out for painting. I'm not sure about the copper question.

>> No.2708677

>>2708589
thanks kind Anon
I flipped them all, hope it helps

>> No.2708684

>>2708668
??? It's fine and not against code at all to use a 20A rated outlet on a 15 amp circuit with a 15A breaker.

Are you asking the wrong question? Are you trying to use 20A outlets and a 20A breaker on a circuit that has its wire sized for 15A? THAT would be an actual problem.

This is one of those cases where the receptacle has to be rated for the circuit ampacity or larger, but never less than your circuit ampacity. Going up is OK. Going down is not.

>> No.2708692

>>2708684
so basically the half dozen articles I found were total bullshit about it even being a code violation and I'd be fine getting 20 amp outlets on a 15 amp circuit

>210.21(B)(1) - A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.

says absolutely nothing about having a receptacle rated more than the circuit, just less.

>> No.2708693
File: 14 KB, 781x250, 15and15.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708693

>>2708692
or maybe it's a violation of this code?

>> No.2708708

>>2708537
Ok, I'll measure it (including the bevel), patch it as best I can for now then call some glass suppliers to get a replacement.

>> No.2708710

>>2708537
>would go check on it once a month
My work is too busy for that right now. I’m not concerned about adverse possession or squatters. I know the law on it. I’m just concerned on it being a good investment now.

>> No.2708718

>>2708670
all right,thanks for the info

>> No.2708732

>>2708537
> Mdf is just generally bad material to work with
Yea was considering plywood but it’s a lot more expensive (I need a lot) and it’ll be painted anyway. But MDF is cheaper, and easier to handle.

What’s the fast cap tool?

>> No.2708744

>>2708732
Mdf isn't structural
Don't fuck your shit up to save money
Google fastcap flushmount

>>2708710
Nothing will ever be this cheap again

>>2708645
Toggle bolts or fliptoggle or flip anchors

>>2708580
UV fading and condensation are the only concerns. If your house is really well insulated and conditioned (vent in closet) it doesn't matter.
I've installed a closet system that covered a window a few inches in a new house but would never do that in an older home

>> No.2708750

>>2708744
> Mdf isn't structural
I know, but the project is basically long small boxes for growing plant seedlings in. There’s no real strength required, the walls are just there to keep the light in and the flies out, and they will get paint and layers of poly to make them moisture proof. I’ve made such boxes from both mdf and ply before and the mdf works fine, just the screws get loose but it’s glued too

> Google fastcap flushmount
Thanks I hadn’t heard of that

>> No.2708787

>>2708539
excellent info, anon. thanks

>> No.2708908
File: 57 KB, 550x406, 1698257763492874.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708908

Just scored a ton of misc old-ish paint for free and also have an upcoming welding project. is there any reason generic latex interior paint couldn't work to coat steel? I don't need epoxy paint level wear resistance, just some rust protection.

>> No.2708914

>>2708692
>>2708693
There is no problem; this is a "greater than or equal to" type of thing. They have to meet or exceed the rating listed.

Think about it; what type of safety problem could it cause to have a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit? As long as the breaker is sized correctly, then you're good to go.

>> No.2708918
File: 50 KB, 602x522, 1699589982071.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708918

Looking for a source on green machine (read:metal) paint thats similar to that on older machinery, see pic related

I have a fair number of older powertools in various stages of wear, and repainting them to match would give a nice cohesion to my shop

>> No.2708965

>>2708918
It’s called Machinery Green, most paint stores still have it. RAL 6011 is often used as a close match.

But most old machines have faded over the years so new paint of the same color may still appear darker

>> No.2708997
File: 3.07 MB, 4128x3096, 20231105_095005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2708997

>>2703983
>>2703984
>>2703989
>>2703990
>>2703991
>>2704002
>>2704004
>>2706083

Update: This is what a similar outlet looks like in another room. As you can see, the outlet box is so dfferent from the new ones that it's no help.
I did speak to my electrician uncle who said exactly what I did: white to silver, black to bronze, break off the tab between the bronze.
And what happened? One outlet is dead (seemingly the switched one as the other is always hot).
I have no fucking clue what is going on here.

>> No.2709001

>>2706083
SO I'm thinking what you're saying is it is this
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/210926/2-black-and-2-white-wires-but-one-black-one-white-are-on-the-same-side-of-a-s

>> No.2709003

I'm trying to touch up some black vending machines with black spray paint. How do I stop the spray paint from looking so splotchy. Some areas I've gone over stand out way more than others

>> No.2709029

>>2703451
Are there any negative aspects of owning land outside of the city some 30 minutes? Also, how cheap are they?

>> No.2709072
File: 2.99 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20231110_104116_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709072

>>2703451
Hey, does anyone know what kind of wood this is? More photos to come. It's been sitting in my garage and I used a piece of it for a small project. It doesn't seem very strong, but could be because the age.

>> No.2709074
File: 2.28 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20231110_104145_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709074

>>2709072
What it looks like sanded.

>> No.2709076
File: 2.47 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20231110_104129_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709076

>>2709074
This was right after the cut, the color seems to vary a lot, it may have been left wet for a while or something.

>> No.2709138

>>2709029
If the city is growing, it's a great investment

>>2709003
Wipe down with auto 3in1

It's probably fir
Could be cedar but you'd be able to smell it
It's soft wood for sure

>> No.2709140

>>2709076
>>2709074
>>2709072
It's probably fir
Might be cedar but you'd smell it when cutting
It's for sure just basic soft wood
Cherry nor alder look like that but would be about that color
If you go into a full sized lumber yard, you'll see bigger boards with both the darker H
heartwood like your board and lighter barkwood together in one piece

>> No.2709154

>>2709140
Thanks man I was thinking it looked like cedar, but cedar I've worked with hasn't been this brittle before. I didn't think of other firs though.

>> No.2709187
File: 346 KB, 1280x958, D2D16C54-A6DA-41B6-B563-FB31F31B593E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709187

these charcoal filters were in an old smokeless ashtray device from the 80s, is there a modern equivalent to this or can I just buy some charcoal rocks and swap these out ? It looks like plain filter paper otherwise

>> No.2709268

>>2709187
No

>> No.2709311

Building a ballista to launch golf balls for a school project with son, would paracord work well for the torsion rope, i have a bunch as is. If not, what would, 3/8 in nylon rope didnt work well

>> No.2709372
File: 71 KB, 1024x768, 1664512477236430.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709372

>>2703451
>work 50-60 hours a week
>administrators expect you to provide john hopkins-tier care in their backwards hick hospital with the most unsafe staffing imaginable
>money grubbing medical supply companies selling the dupes in charge bills of goods for ostensibly life-saving equipment
Give it to me straight: is getting into a trade better than healthcare?

>> No.2709436 [DELETED] 

I have what I thought was a fairly straightforward question but no matter where I search I can't get a fucking answer.

I have a single bulb lighting a 2-car garage. Not enough light. I want to use that same circuit to power two fluorescent light fixtures. I might even go LED, haven't researched the pros and cons yet.
Can I just take down the bulb socket and wire in two light fixtures to replace the one? The only other things on the circuit are the washer and dryer, another bulb in the single-car garage beside the main garage, and the garage door openers.

>> No.2709437

I have what I thought was a fairly straightforward question but no matter where I search I can't get a fucking answer.

I have a single bulb lighting a 2-car garage. Not enough light. I want to use that same circuit to power two fluorescent light fixtures. I might even go LED, haven't researched the pros and cons yet.
Can I just take down the bulb socket and wire in two light fixtures to replace the one? The only other things on the circuit are the washer and dryer, another bulb in the single-car garage beside the main garage, and the garage door openers.

Also, I'm not doing that mickey mouse bullshit where you get a fixture with a plug and just plug it in or whatever. none of that. I'm going to hardwire it.

>> No.2709510
File: 266 KB, 800x600, products_electric_motors_2_big.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709510

stupid question
but how can a cog (etc) be attached to the output shaft on an engine / motor?
I wanted to post a ICE engine but the electric motor illustrates the question a lot better
Is it just a case of getting a cog that fits tightly and banging it on and hope it doesn't just spin on the output shaft?

>> No.2709519

>>2709510
Normal people just use a keyway.

>> No.2709525

>>2709519
thanks fren for answering my stupid question

>> No.2709535

>>2703451
Question about electric appliances: I noticed yesterday that my airbrush compressor has voltage on its body. Got a small shock when I brushed my hand against it when adjusting the pressure. I checked the cable connections in the box with the on/off switch and there was no obvious damage to any cable. There was a lot of water in the pressure tank though (didn't empty it in a while...). Could it be, that the water somehow shortened something inside the compressor? Has somebody here had that issue? How should I go about it? I obviously don't use the compressor anymore, but would like to fix it.

>> No.2709595
File: 328 KB, 1387x905, Wiring.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709595

We have an issue where if we use something in the kitchen while the dryer is going, both breakers will trip. Here is the current wiring diagram for how everything is set up. I don't know why the home owner decided to do it this way, but it's a complete mess. Is there a reason for tying the neutrals together right away? There doesn't appear to be a reason why two lines are being run to the dryer anyway (it's a gas dryer, so it uses 120V).
I think the double breaker tripping comes from some phase issue with the neutrals. Is there any reason I shouldn't just run two separate lines? They would also finally get a ground line (currently all floating).

>> No.2709679
File: 202 KB, 1521x737, Cooling.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709679

I already know this is probably a stupid idea, but is it viable?

>> No.2709681

The valve/handle that turns on my downstairs shower is not attached to the thing.
I have the handle, and it can be put on and turns the thing, but I don't know what to buy to finish the system so the handle just stays on.

>> No.2709695
File: 2.02 MB, 3840x2160, PXL_20231110_004901088.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709695

I'm not a /diy/ guy but a family member messed up and wants me to fix this situation
They're trying to replace a ceiling light fixture and they need to replace a bracket, but the screw in this picture got stuck which lead to it being stripped by a drill
I tried the rubberband trick and it still wouldn't so I tried turning it manually with some pliers, and it will turn clockwise but not anymore counterclockwise
How hard is it to remove and replace the electrical box? Or is there some other way to get out the screw? Thanks

>> No.2709716

>>2709695
>How hard is it to remove and replace the electrical box?
Difficult. Use locking pliers to grip the head of the screw and remove it.

>> No.2709718

>>2709595
>some phase issue with the neutrals
Neutrals are all tied together in the service panel. There is no "phase" for the neutrals.
Why does your drawing show them tied to the breakers?

>> No.2709735

>>2709718
You're right, I did make it look like I tied the neutral to the hot wire. My intention was just to show wire pairs. Both of those neutrals go to the same bus bar.
What explanation is there for why we can't use an air fryer in the kitchen while the dryer is on? Both breakers will trip.

>> No.2709739
File: 86 KB, 800x544, 321968060_47b2d2f170_c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2709739

What is the diy board archive site?

>> No.2709789

>>2709716
Thanks, it took a lot of force to get the first few turns where the screw was stuck but after that it became easy

>> No.2709794

Is this

>> No.2709798

>>2709681
There should be a small set screw that runs perpendicular to the cassette shaft or a screw under a cover that screws into the end of the cassette shaft

>>2709679
Welcome to water cooling
You're like 10 years late

>>2709535
It might just have been static shock
Systems that don't ground can build up static shock, especially if material is creating friction
Vacuums for concrete grinding will shock you every 10 seconds

>>2709437
The electrical code calls for a gas washer/dryer combo to be on their own circuit
I would just try the highest lumen LED multipanel light you can find first
Then if that's not enough with the panels angled where you want, then you could wire in LED shop lights that look like fluorescents but you'd still need to pay attention to the lumens.
I have an LED garage bulb that's brighter than 2 fluorescent fixtures

>>2709372
Not when you can end up moving into a well run hospital/specialty care facility and work 40s making 200k after 10 years or so of due paying

>>2709311
Any cord that doesn't stretch would work. You want the arm(s) to hold the potential energy

>>2709187
A carbon woven N95, properly set up would filter smoke out

>> No.2709805

>>2709735
>What explanation is there for why we can't use an air fryer in the kitchen while the dryer is on?
Flip the breaker for the washer and dryer (position 9) off, then test if the dryer will still operate.
Red and black 'may' be tied together somewhere you haven't discovered.

>> No.2709853

>>2709798
>LED multipanel light
like I said, no mickey mouse bullshit.

also I find a new code violation every time I check or change something electrical in my house.

>pay attention to the lumens
okay, that's the first piece of helpful information I've gotten since I started researching this.

>> No.2710139

>>2709798
Oh I know it exists, I just want to jam it into a laptop.

>> No.2710265
File: 15 KB, 600x600, copper-viega-copper-fittings-77250-64_600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710265

Frens, what's the deal with picrel?
I need a way to quickly assemble and disassemble a thing made out of copper pipe. It holds water but at very low pressure, think USB aquarium pump pressure levels.
Would picrel work for me or is it some vagina dentata system like snarkbite and it won't let go once in place?

>> No.2710280

>>2710265
>it won't let go once in place
If I'm not mistaken, those are for sweating on.
The solder is in the ring on the inside.
If you don't sweat them they will leak and have nothing to keep them from just falling apart.
About the same as a standard copper fitting that hasn't be sweated.

>> No.2710284

I am putting in insulation in the walls of my father’s house. One section of wall doesn’t have traditionally spaced studs so the insulation there won’t friction fit because it’s too wide. Is it fine to just tape two lengths of insulation side by side vertically and stuff it in?

>> No.2710310

>>2710284
>tape two lengths of insulation side by side vertically and stuff it in
You can. The way I do is measure the width needed to fill the space, then split a length of insulation to fill the gap.
Staples on each side hold it in place until it's covered.
For easy splitting, use a straight-edge (1x4 board works) pressed down tightly to the insulation laid out paper side up on a flat surface.
A utility knife will cut through cleanly and leave a smooth edge if you press it tightly before cutting.
Taping the seam is optional if you cut it just a bit wider than needed.
No need to overstuff it.

>> No.2710371

>>2708908
I am not aware of any water based paints that will work at all on steel, they rust right through due to the water.

>> No.2710372

>>2709003
Keep the spray paint farther away from the surface you’re painting on. If it gets blotchy that means you applied too much paint in one spot.

>> No.2710377

>>2710265
These require the crimping tool that takes them from round to hexagonal.

Just use sharkbite or aqualock press fit fittings

>>2709853
Your refusal to even consider the solution that is cheapest, easiest and that the market has made a plethora of options for will likely hurt you long term as close-mindedness is what has killed every great civilization and corporation worth mentioning

>> No.2710481

>>2710377
>dude you don't want a shitty "solution" that won't actually solve the problem NOOOO ITS THE ROMAN EMPIRE YOU CAN'T WANT TO DO IT PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME YOU'RE CLOSE-MINDED
lmao dumbass fuck. go fuck yourself.

>> No.2710524
File: 32 KB, 600x600, copper-everbilt-copper-fittings-c633whd12-64_600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710524

>>2710280
>>2710377
All right, I think picrel is best solution then. I'll 3d print bigger grips around the hex shank and just hand tighten.

>> No.2710645

Is it normal for people who have to apply some kind of chemical to a surface to buy brushes or rollers and then just throw them away?
I know they're charging their client for it but it seems wasteful to me

>> No.2710647

>>2710645
Sorry by people I mean tradesmen, professionals

>> No.2710649

Also another example
Some tree guy came to my house to cut a tree down and poison the stump
Well I checked the bin after he left and there's a brand new bottle of tree poison in there and it was like 3/4 used

>> No.2710675

>>2710645
Brushes and rollers are incredibly inexpensive, it's like buying an extra can of paint. Some solvents are more hassle to remove than they're worth, and brushes/rollers don't last that long to begin with.

>> No.2710806

>>2710649
Drink it

>> No.2710807

>>2710481
It *will* solve the problem
That's the whole issue.
$10 and you're done

>> No.2710810

>>2710524
You have to sweat (solder) each side of that
The nut just connects the threaded pieces you sweat onto the other pipes

>> No.2710855

>>2703451
I want to put an outlet below an existing metal box light switch. So I think I have to connect:
>Pigtail to switch ground
>Pigtail to box ground
>Incoming supply ground
>Outgoing light ground
>Outgoing outlet ground
all together right? Five grounds in a wire nut?

>> No.2710870
File: 18 KB, 534x384, wiring-light-switch.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710870

>>2710855
>I want to put an outlet below an existing metal box light switch.
It depends on how the switch is wired.
If it's like pic related, it's reasonably simple.

>> No.2710872
File: 40 KB, 486x344, power-into-light-wiring.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710872

>>2710855
>>2710870

If it's like this, you have no neutral/return access inside the swich box.

>> No.2710954
File: 2.58 MB, 1989x1557, metal thing.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710954

What is this thing called, and how do I make sure the screw that goes through it is tight against the wall?

>> No.2710993
File: 33 KB, 800x600, B421D477-A29F-447B-931A-F74ACE3AFF4D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710993

>>2710954
It's called a spring toggle, and the screw has to be through the thing you're planning to fix and through the spring toggle before you put it in the wall. You only get one shot at this, because when you take the screw out, the toggle falls into the wall forever. So put all your spring toggles together, and drill all your holes, and make sure everything lines up and double-check everything before pushing in. Wouldn't hurt to push a drill bit or pen down each hole to make sure there's enough room for the toggle to go all the way in and open.

Frankly, these things do work, but they need quite a bit of cavity to go into, and they can be a bit fiddly. Consider using a "wall anchor" instead: you're supposed to use a tool but so long as you get a reputable brand you can just put a nut and two washers between the anchor and the screw, and screw them in with a screwdriver until the screw won't go any further. Then unscrew and you have a permanent, reusable machine screw hole in your wall. Pay attention to the thickness specification when you buy them, they clamp both sides of the wall, so the wall thickness needs to be what they're designed for.

>> No.2710997
File: 121 KB, 1000x1000, D79A969C-B089-44B9-BAF9-90FFF9CCE260.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710997

What do I do if the polarity isn't right? Just remember (and maybe mark it for the next guy), or is there some way to rewire the connector or put the tape in upside-down?

>> No.2710998
File: 195 KB, 1252x640, Wiring.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2710998

>>2709805
I have an updated picture, plus with come current measurements using a clamp meter. Since I got these results, it clearly shows that these breakers are somehow wired together. I just have no idea how (besides the neutrals). I can trace that red wire in the diagram to exactly those spots and nowhere else. How is this possible?

>> No.2711011

>>2710998
The dryer is definitely 110V, and you've definitely checked that its "neutral" is a neutral?

Because the most straightforward explanation for your readings is that the dryer is 220V and the white wire is connected to 7 somewhere in the wall.

>> No.2711016
File: 28 KB, 284x178, 3BFDE664-691D-487A-9ECC-FB61604DDCFC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2711016

>>2710139
>I know it exists, I just want to jam it into a laptop.
That's literally how laptops work already though. Except they work better because the working fluid in a heat pipe is low-pressure wet air, so instead of just convection, the heat is transported by phase change.

>> No.2711018
File: 1.02 MB, 1212x773, DryerOutlet.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2711018

>>2711011
It's a normal 120V outlet. It's not the best picture, but this shows only 1 hot line going into the outlet.

>> No.2711050

>>2710997
use usb-c it is reversible

>> No.2711052

>>2711011
>>2711018
I figured there was absolutely no way what I was saying was possible. So I checked it again and found out I fucked up, there is one more thing in the "red wire line". It goes to the outlet that the gas oven is plugged into. However, the range fan/light both still work. They must be connected somehow. This is bringing back memories from when I first looked into this like 4 years ago.

>> No.2711059
File: 95 KB, 894x892, D2E05CC1-177B-49D6-942F-BB4E087E03B1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2711059

>>2711050
I don't have any USB-C to hand, just the standard grab bag of 10mm LED strip connectors that everyone sells.

>> No.2711079
File: 365 KB, 1867x1240, Electrical Box-Copy of Page-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2711079

>>2711052
Well now I'm back to square one. I don't see anywhere these outlets get crossed. That might just be it though. I don't see it because it's behind the wall. When it goes up into the wall, it must go to somewhere else in addition to the kitchen outlet, but I can't see it.

>> No.2711083

>>2711018
>File: DryerOutlet.png
>Red wire bundle from diagram
Why does it have two blacks and red tied together?
I'm not counting the hot black to the outlet.

>> No.2711087

>>2711083
>two blacks and red tied together

On closer inspection, one of the blacks behind the red/pink could be a shadow.
It still doens't explain the black/red/pink/hot

>> No.2711092
File: 1.04 MB, 1450x790, HowTheFuck is anyone supposed to understand this.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2711092

>>2711083
>>2711087
In the red wire bundle you have the red wire from Breaker 9, the pink one goes to the bundle seen here in green. For the two black wires, one is connected to the dryer outlet, then the other one goes to the outlet for the washer.
The black hot wire from Breaker 7 is not in the bundle.

>> No.2711096

>>2711092
Okay, I didn't think about the washer.
Your diagram has it as red anyway ;^)
mybad