/diy/ - Do It Yourself

finally got my printer running again after being super lazy and a 5 month downtime due to starting upgrade installs and not finishing them. feels good bros. never gonna let my printer rot like that again.
also prusaslicer is awesome, fuck cura

Very impressed with this printer's capability to print at .05mm layer height with minimal settings changed out of the box, only prominent thing is a lot more cobweb-y stringing at this height but that's such a non-issue

Who the hell has an oven that goes down to 120F for drying filament.

>>2403670
>also prusaslicer is awesome
How do I do tree supports in it?

>>2403696
to be fair I forgot not everybody uses petg and you only need to get to 150ish to dry that out, which my oven can do easily

>>2403696
tree supports are for fags and trannies, simply design the part better nigga

>>2403709
Like this?

>>2403709
>tree supports are for fags and trannies
Textbook sour grapes

>>2403723
if cura was a better program, their users would figure out some sort of argument besides "muh tree supports" for why I should use it

>>2403683
Do you still use a .4mm nozzle for .05mm later height? Lowest I've ever gone is .1mm layer height, it looked pretty good, especially after I hit it with a butane torch really lightly.

>>2403730
Ye didn't swap anything out, wanted to see if it could turn out decently and it came out really nicely
obviously took forever even for this tiny little print but is nice to know I can do high detail stuff

making some table numbers for my sisters wedding, this was the test number. Did number 1 fine, then 2 and 3 combined which I forgot to watch at any point imploded my extruder head...... great

Finished putting my ratrig minion together, build wasn't too bad even if the skr 2 that came with it was trying to burn my house down. Mostly just tedious because they engineered fifty different sizes of nuts and bolts into the design.

Its supposed to be one of the faster bedslingers while still being super reliable. Default speeds with their presets are around 100 mm/s. I haven't really had a chance to do anything with it but this calibration cube printed in 8 minutes with an 0.4 mm nozzle so that was cool. It told me to tighten my belts a bit so I did and I'm trying to dial a few more things in.

I've got a few of the CHT high flow nozzles now for this so I'm thinking this will be a very capable machine for making small parts fast with an 0.6 cht nozzle at 0.28 or 0.32mm height.

>>2403546
>Prusa has been in business way too long to still be a retard about having stock on hand
If that's how it works, then why am I having to wait 12 weeks to get my Form 2 Build Platform 2 ??

>>2403709
This, also unironically
Use more dovetails

>>2403796
There are 120960 minutes in 12 weeks, so assuming you save 2 minutes per print job removed, it will take you 60480 prints to break even.
Or, you could buy a second normal build plate, and let the ABS (you are only ever printing ABS, right?) parts cool and pop themselves off while you already have another print starting on the second plate, which you had time time properly wash with dish soap while the first print was running.
Is it too late to cancel your pre-cuck order?

>>2403760
cut the 8 into a 3 and tell her she can only have three tables, problem solved.

>>2403760
>>2403811
Cancel the wedding. There is no other solution.

>>2403796
Just saw that this is for a resin printer. Ewww....

>>2403810
Yes, I definitely only print with ABS filament on my SLA printer.

anyone got experience with large nozzles and petg?
im using a 0.8mm nozzle on a direct drive modded creality cr6max, since i often print large pieces. no matter what i try i get extreme stringing. ive tried wiping before travel, retraction distance settings from 0.1 to 8mm, ive ran temperature towers from 218 to 250°c, travel speeds are limited due to the relatively heavy pieces i print. the stringing is horrible. not even having the spools in my filament dryer over night would fix it. i suspect the large nozzle just sucks for petg, like a leaky sphincter. i really like how it can print a 300% resized benchy in the same time a 0,3 nozzle would take with a normal sized one, but the stringy crap where it travels is so dense, its almost like supports

>>2404009
my black PETG is stringy af no matter what I do. white PETG from the same purchase prints clean af with no stringing. 0.4 mm.

>>2404034
>black PETG
yep, its black, but i had stringing with white one as well. its the kind of stringing thats almost as tough as thin nylon strings to tear with your finger. to much to blowtorch it, and such a hassle to snip it off and sand it down. i switched recently from amazon basics to tinmorry petg, since amazon basics black is since quite some time always out of stock

So I'm struggling a bit. I have some serious adhesion problems with my bed that are very easily fixed if I print a raft. But the Ultimaker Cura 4.8 slicer that I have does the raft around the maximum distance of the model regardless of the height. If you look at the picture you could see that I could have a smaller raft around the central trunk of the hydroponics module. Is there some way I can manually tell it to do it around that point, or maybe a different slicer that respects this? Or am I sol and need to figure out how to deal with my shitty adhesion.

tl;dr - How do I set a raft around the narrow part of the model that is actually going to be touching the buildplate, instead of the whole model?

>>2404096
And pic related is what happened. Because it didn't have a raft, it got unstuck from the plate and started wobbling all over the place.

How often do you need to mess with flow rate?
Same print, same brand printers, calibrated E-steps. 205-230C PLA+ printer needs 90% flow, normal 195-205C PLA printer needs 110%. Is this common to need such wide range of flow?

>perfect first layer on a large print
>two tiny spots where it didn't adhere properly
didn't ruin the print but I'm curious as to the cause, just bad bed adhesion in that spot or could my sheet be warping?

>>2404096
Raft margin? Pic related.

>>2404110
Not quite what I needed, BUT it did resolve the problem (at least as far as it fitting into the printing volume).

Thank you, kind Anon!

>>2404096

Tried a brim? That doesn't look like it should need an actual raft unless you don't have a heated build plate, in which case, lul get rekt.

>>2404009
you probably had bits of filament on the hotend come loose and then they got in the way and lifted up those parts
>>2404009
if dehydrating the filament doesnt fix it, youre gonna have to do retraction towers. You might need slow retract and fast prime speeds, for example, its not always retraction distancr.

>>2404116
Man I don't know what the fuck it is. I have a prusa mk3s, I heat the damn thing to 215/76 but unless I do a raft, it's going to fall off. I have no idea why. I'm using their native steel sheet

>>2404106
calibrate your e-steps properly, flow rate usually doesnt need any touching. even if, its just a means to compensate a tiny bit if you cant nail your e-steps spot on. i had a machine once which needed a flow rate compensation of just 0.95 after repeated e-step calibration, even though it was measured with a custom made dial caliper jig, and got every time the exact same result. it was the same for all filaments. your issue might be the hobbed drive gear in your extruder, it appears to grip one kind of material better than others, like it slips and extrudes a harder material less than a softer one when the wheel can bite into the material and does not slip as much. get a better extruder, or switch out the drive gear or at least try to clean it with a toothbrush. the teeth could be clogged with plastic, reducing grip

>>2404109
a fingerprint , greasy spot, or dust particle can already fuck with adhesion. being to close to the heated bed can make your first layer bunch up in spots and lift from the bed

How do I keep filament from jumping off side of spool? Brand new spool, I kept it tight while loading but it'll pop off the side and wind a few times around the filament holder. All this Esun PLA+ I buy seems to either be too tightly wound and drags the holder or jumps off. The other 4+ brands I use don't have this problem.

>>2404126
retraction is not fixing it, i have a 400x400 built plate full with retraction samples of different settings, ive used the entire range of my hotend, up the heat break and ended up even using the cold end up to the exit of the extruder, thats almost 30mm of retraction. my buildplate full with retraction towers had retractions from 0,1 up to 30, just for the fuck of it, and all of them looked the same

>>2404109
that doesnt look perfect. if you cant see single lines from your infill it just means you oversquished your first layer. that squishing is at one point starting to delaminate your print from the print bed, creating a bubble like surface in some spots

>>2404144
Guess I'll just go over it with more IPA
>>2404155
you can still see the layers, my phone camera just sucks

>>2404157
>more IPA
acetone and then ipa works wonders, just dont use it on pei surfaces or build tak likes , acetone is causing micro fractures in it

Ender 3 V2
Everytime I have to make adjustments and need to pause, the nozzle resets to home before resuming, but it always neglects to shift on the Z axis and drags my print with it while it's moving away.
Its literally better for me to just kick the power cable and resume when plugged back in and warmed up.

Pause shouldn't work like that, what do I need to change?

I'm a retard, and can't quite get this working. I have an ender 3 with a bltouch installed. My printer keeps printing over the bed.

I'm using Cura, and this is the start g-code.

[code]
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 Z0.5
[code]

If I increase the number on that last line, G98 Z0.5, that should lower the height the first layer prints at. Right? Because that's what I was trying, and it's doing shit all so far.

>>2404201
Did you forget to add G29?

>>2404205
>Did you forget to add G29?
Well I did mention I was a retard.... Yes. I forgot that part. Does it go at the end, right after the G92 line?

Walk across house to do the adjustments it suggests. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely because that's all Klipper does on an Ender. Walk across house to do the adjustments it suggests. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely because that's all Klipper does on an Ender. Walk across house to do the adjustments it suggests. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely because that's all Klipper does on an Ender. Walk across house to do the adjustments it suggests. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it. Kick off bed level remotely again because it's still off. Walk across house to adjust it.

>>2404201
G29 by itself never did anything for me with aftermarket FW.
G29 J2 will set you up with autolevel. The other fancy mesh shit is if you have a 'wavy' bed.

Gotta set your X/Y offsets, endstops, etc, if you want mesh instead of autolevel. DESU it's more trouble than its worth if you have a glass bed, the 'waviness' is more likely from movement related shit rather than an accurate representation of the bed.. i.e. if you rotate the bed your 'mesh' still ends up looking the same.

>>2403780
>N Y X

God I hate mesh. 20x20 mesh? Let's print 0.5mm closer to the bed! 3x3 mesh? Let's print perfect! Mesh exists for non glass warpy boi's that have beds worse than their Z axis smoothness.

I'm having some extrusion problems with my ender 3 pro printing small high detail models.
Pic related is what my printer is doing. those holey parts should be solid, but they're only supports.
I've heard some people say something about e-steps, and I've truned up the steps/mm for my extruder by like 1, but that didn't have any effect that I can see.

>>2404304
pic 2

>>2404306
and a pic of the model in cura

Voxelab Aquila C2 or Creality Ender 3 V2.
I read they are the same but that can't be true if the aquila is 30€ cheaper, right?

>>2404140
Wash the sheet with dish soap and then alcohol them don't fucking touch it without gloves on

>>2404304
>>2404306
have you done the thing of marking 150mm, extruding 100mm and then measuring the distance? Because you're definitely under extruding a bit

I literally just want to get some decent .2mm nozzles to fuck around with but the reviews on amazon are almost universally "this shit is worse than the standard, and many came without any holes at all". Anybody got a type/manufacturer that isn't shit?

>>2404197
my ender 3 (not pro) doesn't do that. The fuck. If it's something you can predict, like you're slotting in magnets or something, write a stop in the gcode.

>>2404467
Also while I'm at it, what better filament tubing should I pick up?

what would happen if I eliminated the bowden tube aspect of a bowden printer outside of the hot end?
Like from the extruder to the hot end it's just bare filament and then a chopped off piece of tubing secured in the hot end still

>>2404475
yeah, seems like a great idea

>>2404475
The filament would just fucking flop around, what do you think would happen?

Floppy boi.

15 mins until a 36 hour print is done, click cancel on wrong Klipper printer. Is there some 'power save' recovery feature I can turn on in Klipper that won't gimp the prints with delays in the process? Or maybe some 'no, undo' command?

>>2404469
capricorn. its blue ptfe tubing for 3d printers. its a more slippery ptfe tube with a more precise inner diameter to prevent bunching . get the genuine stuff, not the blue dyed crap knockoffs from china. https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Series-Ultra-Low-Friction-PTFE-Tubing/c/23214267

and get their pushfit couplers as well, the pneumatic ones on your printer might not bite well enough into the thinner outer diameter of that more slippery ptfe
https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/Creality-Fitting-Pack/p/114327629/category=33913105

>>2404516
Danke. Should have done this basic shit a while ago but hadn't had much problems.

>>2404475
>what would happen
For starters, I would be suing you for infringement on the patent I just filed. Thanks!

>>2404490
This is the best I can do for you: https://www.amazon.com/MYNT3D-Super-3D-Pen-Compatible/dp/B081C946ZJ

Instead of replacing my Ender 3 hot end assembly for the third time I purchased the Ender 3 S1 instead, so far it's great, after I replaced the single y-axis bed roller bolt that came bent (real pain in the ass to find a replacement I should add) how has anyone else's experience with the printer been?

ITS BEEN 30 MINUTES AND ITS STILL SLICING
FUCKING TREE SUPPORERS

>>2404576
I remember trying to print a Halo helmet all at once years ago. NOT GREAT TIME.

>>2404577
I already printed a few masks fine. This one was the first one I fully modeled myself and it comes into two seperate pieces so you can actually put it on without it being 2 sizes too big. trying to set up the positioning to minimize the filament requirement
best I got so far is 150 meters

>>2404576
>ITS BEEN 30 MINUTES AND ITS STILL SLICING
your 2500k isnt good enough anymore grandpa

>>2404629
its not the best but its not that bad either

How do I improve the supports on prusaslicer? I just increased Top Contact Z Distance but is there anything else I should do?

Can someone explain to an absolute retard like me the difference between anycubic photon m3 vs photon mono 4k vs photon mono 4k? Decided to go with anycubic because i'm on a budget and never 3d printer before

They all seem about the same spec-wise (m3 seems to have slightly better resolution but mono x prints slightly faster) and have a similar price.

Want to buy my first resin printer for printing decent-ish quality miniatures (GW plastic crack is raping my wallet) and all this stuff is melting my pea brain

>>2404776
>photon m3 vs photon mono 4k vs photon mono x*

Typing is hard

Extruder on my Ender 3 Pro keeps skipping despite e-step calibration, checking for clogs etc.
Weird thing that I've discovered is that it will consistently skip at the same point of a certain print that I do, which makes me thing it is not an issue with settings or clogs since I figure that would show issues at more random spots.
Not really sure what the next step here should be besides replacing the cable/extruder motor/motherboard itself unless anyone has any ideas

>>2404467
>.0mm nozzle
Imagine the detail

All my printers make a Z band at the same points, usually where two structures meet or after a hole that entire layer throughout the print will have a band. is this a flowrate issue? Not sure if I just need to slow it down or what. Only doing 50mm/s speed walls on ender.

>>2404791
Maybe temp is too low? Like the hotend cools down a bunch at that spot and it just stops extruding. Also there's a setting for 'max retractions for X distance' intended to keep filament from getting chewed up.

>>2404576
>ITS BEEN 30 MINUTES AND ITS STILL SLICING
It's not multithreaded. Also it often just randomly hangs up on slicing. Since slicer is only using one thread you can just open another copy of Cura and try slicing again without affecting the speed of the original attempt.
>>2404670
Stock speeds on fastest CPU wouldn't even be twice as fast. That old boi's fine.

>>2404684
What's it doing? Cura wanted to do 2x line height gap under the supporting area, so I lowered that down to 1x. Makes clean tight support areas but they're annoying to remove. I do concentric roof pattern, although line might be good too. Trying to find that sweet spot of roof density to make it easier to remove, trending towards ~80% and make it a tad bit thicker so it comes off as one piece. Maybe partial layer height gap?

>>2404855
You literally have to

>>2404888
>Maybe temp is too low? Like the hotend cools down a bunch at that spot and it just stops extruding. Also there's a setting for 'max retractions for X distance' intended to keep filament from getting chewed up.

Oddly enough I just ran it through prusa slicer instead of cura out of curiosity, and it didn't skip when it normally does...really have only used cura previously so I'll give prusaslicer a shot.
Don't know if it makes any sense that the slicer would affect that but I'll take what I can get since I've been wanting to throw this printer onto the highway for a while now.

I wonder, has anyone managed to crack chitubox?

>>2404776
4k is higher res than the m3, and the mono x is a bigger 4k

I have a very small space, but I make electronics and sell stuff. I need to make enclosures for them, not too much larger than handheld stuff. What's a good but very small 3d printer for this? Or should I just outsource it? Also, is it possible to make stuff that's heat resistant?

>>2405067
3D printing in itself is a skill, if you are willing to invest the time to learn how to do it well, then I think it will be worthwhile for you to do it yourself, because you can make a quick prototype (or section of a prototype) and in a few minutes/hours be checking the fit, then modifying it and repeating. If you are doing a bigger production run, it might be better to just outsource the work until you have the skills to pay the bills.
You're probably fine just using PLA for what you are talking about, but if you are trying to enclose an elecronic device that puts out serious heat (like a graphics card) then you will want ABS. Pretty much every printer is fine for PLA, for ABS you really need an enclosure, so either get an enclosed printer, or nigger-rig an enclosure on an open printer like some of the more economically disadvantaged anons in this general have done.
Basically, just buy an Ender 3 for next to nothing, and take it from there would be my advice.

kek

>>2405148
Meant the kek for this >>2404897

Anyone familiar with this mythical creature?

>>2405193
Forgot pic:

>>2404791
Try changing the g-code flavor in cura or try prusa slicer.

That perfect first layer feel

>>2405214
>You vill mahke zee hahney in zee seenthetik bee-ive
>You vill injest zee nicotine pesteecides
>You vill nevugh breed vith zee Qveen!

>>2404207
It goes right after G28.

>>2405195
ah yes, the snake sucking its own dick, ouroblowjob.

What threads do you usually like to use for printed components so you know they're most likely to fit properly?

>>2405228
Close, but this is an Oreoboros.

>>2405230
Threaded heat-set inserts work really well, but if you are threading something larger (like a shift knob), then just go with the spec threads but maybe consider dropping to .15mm layer height, and even scaling your model up or down 1-2% in the slicer to get the right tightness.

>>2405235
I mean when you're threading two parts together because they need to be able to come apart again to service the internals.

>>2405242
i use non-printed M3 nuts and bolts

>>2405250
Humor me. You don't have space to add a flange. What thread type do you use?

>>2405242
This is what I was talking about: https://youtu.be/i6GkWjcWj5w
3D printed threads don't work well at small scales.

>>2405257
I'm talking about 18mm diameter threads here mate.

>>2404791
cure might have excessive retraction settings. at one spot of your print the gcode cura made might instruct the printer to retract repeateldy at one area with to much retraction, pulling the filament back to much can cause toft material to get into the heat brake, the teflon liner there is a little bit larger than the filament diameter, the printer is pushing the hard filament into the soft stuff, making it bunch up against the walls of the teflon liner , pinching the filament inside the liner in the process, making your extruder skip by not being able to push that hard to overcome that resistance. prusa slicer might have different settings which wont retract at that same spot in the same manner.

>>2404791
cura might have excessive retraction settings. at one spot of your print the gcode cura made might instruct the printer to retract repeateldy at one area with to much retraction, pulling the filament back to much can cause toft material to get into the heat brake, the teflon liner there is a little bit larger than the filament diameter, the printer is pushing the hard filament into the soft stuff, making it bunch up against the walls of the teflon liner , pinching the filament inside the liner in the process, making your extruder skip by not being able to push that hard to overcome that resistance. prusa slicer might have different settings which wont retract at that same spot in the same manner.

>>2405214
I mean, it's in the ballpark but it's possible to almost completely eliminate those lines while printing a giant square to tune z offset. Maybe not with that bed.
>>2405067
>I have a very small space,
Ender 3 will probably be too loud for you then unless you want to dump $80 in new fans plus squash ball feet.
> need to make enclosures for them, not too much larger than handheld stuff.
I do this, a ton of boxes. An ender will take about 12-15 hours for a box the size of 2-3 packs of cigs. You'll also get crazy ringing/ghosting and inevitable z-banding so I'd highly recommend turning 'fuzzy' mode on to hide those blemishes or printing very slow with a low layer height. Small height and matte filament makes for some smooth boxes but then they're prone to scratching.

>>2405266
>You'll also get crazy ringing/ghosting and inevitable z-banding
Have you considered performing basic fucking maintenance
Even an ender 3 shouldn't be doing that shit under normal conditions
Print the z screw brace and tension your belts for once

>>2405267
>Have you considered performing basic fucking maintenance
Ringing just seems inevitable on these, especially in the Y axis. Maybe I can put the rubber feet back on since I'm running Klipper but the whole damn machine moves, especially when the beds slinging around. Gantry tower braces might have helped a bit with that.
Klipper resonance I managed to dial out the X ghosting. For Y I need to try the fancier algorithms, for now I'm just doing fuzzy which hides everything but banding. 0.1mm @ 0.2mm density fuzzy just makes everything look like it has spray on bedliner. Good shit.
>print the z screw brace
I have two metal ones already. Need to print the Z motor adjuster mount, the braces just contribute too much binding. Even with dual Z it's just stupid binding to the point where even without them you can't go up to the max 250 height without motors skipping steps and then the whole gantry becomes 'tilted'. Z belt mod might be worthwhile. I ripped out the second Z leadscrew for now and I think I got rid of the banding aside from I assume flow related banding. Now I have two enders so I can compare the health of them.

I always print at 200-300% speed tho. I work on my shit fairly often but try not to go more than a few hours of 'downtime'. I'll check the belts again.
>>2405263
Cura and Prusa Slicer both default to 5mm retraction for the Ender 3 profile.

>>2405260
Ok, well in that case (and without looking anything up) I would guess a pipe tread profile with a coarse pitch would probably work best.

>>2405278
>I would guess a pipe tread profile with a coarse pitch would probably work best.

I mean.. There's those printable vice's. Around 6mm I just drill/tap the holes, below that I just self-thread, even a machine screw can often self thread themselves despite not having a pointed tip. It's like $5 for 100 machine screws at the hardware store. If it needs to repeatedly come apart then do an inset for a nut, can probably even trap the nut with some fancy gcode pause scripting.

>>2405256
i usually just make a hole and tap it with an m3 tap.

>>2405283
>fancy gcode pause scripting.
Speaking of which, is there a way to make it pause until you press start again? I'm running Klipper with Cura 5, and it just sends the M226 (IIRC) command after the specified layer, the toolhead pulls away, and then just goes right back to work unless I manage to hit the pause button while it's fucking around. I've heard of people adding a dwell command, but I don't like that because then you have to work around what the machine wants to do while you change filament or add an insertable object (kek!), instead of it waiting on your control input.

>>2403639
hey
My CR10 MAX has been fucking up prints.
the z-axis motors spin a little when they shouldn't.
what causes the z axis motors to move when on a single layer?

>>2405315
auto bed leveling. theres false leveling grid data in your printers memory, run auto bed leveling

>>2405315
thats supposed to be like that. auto bed leveling is dynamically adjusting for bed unevenness while printing. you got to properly level your bed, and set the z-zero height correctly

>Want to print /tg/ miniatures for friends during upcoming sessions
>Buy used ender 3 with auto-levelling BLTouch clone
>Seller had good reviews
How fucked am I

>>2405393
pretty much. dont buy used printers, you never know how they were treated, how often they crashed, how well they got maintained. if all firmware safeties are still in place. you might end up having to get parts replaced, linear bearings, guide rods, nozzle.

How do you monetize resin printers? I got a Halot One for free from a friend that was moving and want to start selling stuff I print. I bought wash containers.

>>2404577
Pls anon, for a noob printer, what is the issue with printing something that big all at once?
How and why would I cut it into smaller parts?

>>2405465
weight for once, large parts have more inertia, makes it easier for them to get lose or start to oscillate with the bed. the chance for extruder skips gets higher ruining your 4 day print, either from extruder stepper heat creep or hotend heat creep. better to recover from a 20 hour print . your gcode it smaller. some board shit the bed with gcodes of a certain file size. better control over your filament. its better to print smaller pieces, so you wont have to change rolls mid print when you suddenly run out. time. larger prints need to move slower on your print bed, otherwise you get losing steps since the stepper cant move larger masses with the same accelerations as smaller ones. that larger piece will take longer over all.

what the fuck?
i have been printing no problem for months and now suddenly i got error saying there is thermal runaway on heater id 0
and this happened 2 times in a row.
but both nozzle and bed work fine because when i restart the print they heat up normally
both errors occurred during the first layer print
the fuck is going on?
pic related is the temperature graph from the failed print

>>2405550
what printer? check the thermal probe connectors, they become loose after some time because most chink printers use the cheapest connectors

>>2405561
the thermistors show all correct temperature, and they are soldered in so nothing to be loose anywhere

i just tried again and hot heat runaway for the third time in a row now.
I watched the print and the problem happens when the first layer finished, i print it at 209C, then second layer stars which changes the temperature to 195C.
The nozzle drops to 186C, then slowly starts to rise, not sure why so slowly, and before it gets back to 195C the runaway protection triggers.
So i could increase the thermal runaway timeout in the firmware but thats retarded, why the fuck does the temperature drop so much?

so i tried manually setting the temp to 209 then back to 195 and it always undershoots it to about 189C (it undershoots more during print prolly because the part cooling fan is on)

but still it should not fucking undershoot by this much, it has all that PID shit it can use
the fuck is going on here

>>2405572
Your thermistor wires are fugged. Just replace the thermistor. They cost $2.

>>2405592
but the thermistor is working fine

>>2405550
your hotend thermistor sensor might have a broken cable or connector causing a bad connection

>>2405630
but the temperature readouts are correct, it's not the thermistor, there are never any strange temperatures reported, it's just heating too slow
i tried recalibrating pid so let's see if it does anything

>>2405565
you need to heat it up, and then jiggle the cable connecting the thermistor around. in the homed position it might be alright, but when the print head moves the connection gets interrupted and it goes into thermal runaway protection mode, so your house is not burning down

>>2405632
it doesnt matter what the readout says, when its a broken cable you get a readout, yes, and when the whole thing jiggles around that connection gets opened. just move the thermistor cable on the hotend and see if the temperature drops

One of my Ender3v2's is printing 2x as fast as the other. Both are on Klipper, same config file, printing same gcode file, using same filament, etc. Both are 4.2.2 board. What the shit.

Guys, what causes differences in pressure advance settings between different filaments? Is it viscosity, thermal expansion, or something else?

>>2405889
Viscosity. Different materials flow at different rates. Add to this the fact that you need to print them at different temperatures too.
That being said having a single value for pressure advance is fine unless you're really pushing your printer for speed.

>>2405883
Either your acceleration or your e-steps are fucked up.

Getting weird artifacts in my prints at the end of layers. Pic related, hotend starts at seam, goes right, and at the end on the left, is missing some filament. Printer is Ender 5 Plus, slicer is Cura 5. Coasting is off, and I imagine if it was flow or stripped filament I would see it all around. Anyone seen this before?
Unrelated, but I'm curious about Prusaslicer or Superslicer. What are the advantages over Cura? Does it handle filament profiles better? Curas are a mess, and if everything else is the same I dont really care about tree supports for most prints.

>>2406049
Seam placement, try this

>>2405276
>Maybe I can put the rubber feet back on since I'm running Klipper but the whole damn machine moves, especially when the beds slinging around.
Are you running this this at 60mms+ or something? I never go above 45 and many features are printed at less.

>>2405278
Dude I meant specific settings or procedures in Fusion or something. I didn't have any issue using very large ANSI threads (45mm+ diameter) for a mask I made two years ago but much finer threads for much smaller parts seems to have additional complications.

>>2406066
>>2405276
>I always print at 200-300% speed tho.
Okay yeah you're just plain printing beyond the printer's capabilities and using fuzzy skin to cover it up. If it works more power to you, but don't be telling people Enders perform like that normally because you're basically raping the machine and beating it into compliance.

>>2406060
It's not that the seam is in a bad location, but that there is underextrusion at the end of layers. Also sometimes happens away from the seam, but is always worst at it.

>>2406049
Never used PrusaSlicer, but I can tell you unequivocally that SuperSlicer is for incels and autists that need to be able to set every single fucking little thing, on one giant, ugly as fuck UI that makes no sense whatsoever.
Cura 5 is an amazing piece of software, like an exotic car, but sometimes you don't want to (or can't) take your exotic car off-roading while extemely drunk and microdosing on cat tranquilizers. This is where SS comes in, for those .1% shitty, fucked up, bad jobs that Cura is just not suited to. You should totally download it.

Just started learning to use fusion360 and it's really fun since i managed to get a good teacher.
Will probably try to design my own ring to print and use as a mold once I've learned enough about it.
My friend who bought a printer but ended up never using a while back it is going to gift it to me as well so I'm going to be able to do some fun stuff at home.

Beyond a ring I'm not really sure what i want to print, maybe figurines and to design some myself if i ever get to that level. Seems like fun to paint.
Any thoughts on what else could be fun to do?

>>2406221
You could start with the official /3dpg/ benchie: https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/618b8ddbb623a35beaad3dcb
Scaled to 25%, it's a great way to learn and tune you printer.

>>2404100
See no reason to have a raft on this one. You need level bed, or better, use table autoleveling dongle for that. Clean the bed. Also maybe your bed sucks for material you try to use. That happens as well. But to tell the truth, most problems of that kind was bed level related.

>>2404475
you'd make spaghett

>>2404670

>>2404776
resolution and layer height. you don't need fast printing.

>>2405067
monoprice mini delta provided the 110mm Dx140mm volume is sufficient

Why does it look like my print went through a hotdog slicer?

>>2406484
looks like either a slicing issue or something with your LCD

>>2404791
exact same thing happened to me, I swapped the ender 3 silent board out for my original board and the printer works again with no skipping.

>>2406491
>LCD
That's a FDM print, my brother in Christ

why the ender 3 v2? is the ender 3 too bad compared?

what about the ender 2 pro. i just need to do small pieces.

>>2406517
basically no reason to get a pro if you're going to use Klipper or OctoPrint

they both have the same printing hardware, just a different LCD

>>2406518
>basically no reason to get a pro if you're going to use Klipper or OctoPrint
sorry what does all that even mean, i decided to get a 3d printing machine literally yesterday. pro is for more advanced config or something? i want to print small parts for cameras and also motu action figures.

>>2406517
>why the ender 3 v2? is the ender 3 too bad compared?
There are several fairly important changes that have been made since the original E3.
If you can't afford the E3V2 you can get an E3 Pro, it has the most important changes like the 24V meanwell PSU, 40mm wide Y extrusion and maybe a 32 bit board (luck of the draw on this one, they were made with 8 bit and 32 bit boards).

>what about the ender 2 pro
I would not trust a cantilever design on V rollers. Once the rollers wear out or get flat spots then the axes will no longer be square.
Also it has a small build area.
>i just need to do small pieces
That's how it all begins, sooner or later you will want something that doesn't fit the build plate. Considering the price point of the Ender 3s there's no reason to go for a smaller machine.

>>2406522
alright, itll be a 3 then. saw on a video that a stepper motor damper mod was not possible on the pro, i can buy either, but i want the one that will have good mod potential too.

>>2406531
>a stepper motor damper mod was not possible on the pro
In terms of kinematics the only differences between a pro and a V2 are the tensioners. The pro comes with fixed tensioners that you pull on and then tighten in place to the extrusions. V2 has some smarter ones that are adjustable with a thumbscrew. It's not something dealbreaking but my point is that you should be able to install dampers. Not sure how necessary they are as my E3 Pro runs just fine without but you do you.

>i want the one that will have good mod potential too
Trust me, the E3Pro has plenty of mod potential. Speaking from experience, of course. Picrel is mine.

>>2406517
The Ender 3 Pro + SKR Mini E3v3 + PEI steel sheet is a much better printer than the Ender 3 v2.

Glass beds are a joke in 2022. The color screen is beyond useless. The stealthchop 2208 steppers in the V2 are ok, but you can get a much superior BTT SKR for $40.

>>2406539
ty anon

Halp.
I get crazy overextrusion on 100% infill for first cm or two. If I lower flow to fix it then I get gaps later on and it wants normal 100% flow. Cura defaults so everything is a static 100% flow. I just endure the first few hours of nozzle dragging through layers for now. I've done the E-step calibration a million times.

Are there open source firmware for the common sla printers out there?
Or can i hijack the lcd from a common printer with a raspberry pi?

>>2406517
Had plain Ender 3. Bought cr touch for 32 bit board and had chose to buy bl touch for 8 bit board or buy 32 bit v2 board for the same rice. I got v2 board. First thing I noticed, stepper motors went almost completely silent. They work really smooth now, with no ear piercing sound, cr touch work like charm, nice bonus and help to get perfect first layer, little better quality of prints, still noisy PSU of old plain 3. Overall, only changing board to v2 and installing cr touch, your quality of life with this machine, will go up a lot. If you don't have money or don't want invest 400+ $ to new printer, you can buy plain old 3, with time upgrade it to v2, change PSU and install cr touch. Pluses of this approach, you don't waste lot of money at initial start. You must understand, even if you bought printer for 200, you still need filament, few rolls of PLA, few other types, to get it going, understand and practice, make mistakes and learn from it, maybe even get enclosure, especially for ABS. So You start with little and if you see it's a thing for you, you keep going, modding printer and making whole new machine out of it. Or, you see it's not your thing and waste about 250$ you still can sell it for some 150$ or so. In short I started with little, and went up adding things to base machine. But this approach has its downsides. New brand S1 is a whole new machine, better construction and initially you get same as mentioned above, plus two z rods instead of one for table and direct feed head. So if you have money you can spare for hobby you not sure about, I would tell you go after better machine from the start. But there also is a minus of that approach, tinkering with your basic machine, you will understand lots of things and in the end you can really understand what kind of machine you need, maybe something better than ender. Also, from my experience, one or two z axis rods, I see little difference in quality.

>>2406221
>Beyond a ring I'm not really sure what i want to print, maybe figurines and to design some myself if i ever get to that level. Seems like fun to paint.
>Any thoughts on what else could be fun to do?
This shit pisses me off. You don't see people buying mills and acting like the mill was the whole point of itself.
Use the printer to complete projects you were already going to do, dork. 3d printers are tools. Not a hobby unto itself.

I designed this cobra-apple. Whattaya think?

>>2406642
If you set your settings to 'expert' and look into the material section, there is more to the flow settings. You can set lower flow rates on initial layer and also for top/bottom, which follows what you set in the 'top/bottom' section.
Another thing that could be happening is that because there is overextrusion at the beginning, your material could be building up slightly and then releasing as the print continues, causing a sort of elephants foot over the entire print.

>>2406757
spoopy

>>2403639
I have a design in mind that would essentially house simple electronics that connect to an arduino. What's a good forum to ask arduino questions? The micro-controller threads here are full of mean people :(

>>2406754
You clearly haven't watched any wood working channel that is just make this jig, make this tool box, make this workbench on into infinity

My seams are causing very long ridged lines across half a layer perimeter. Like it just prints an extra wall width beyond the model and drags that extra wall a few CM. I always thought the seam was just a dot/bump in the print and not a longass wall. Is this shit fucked or is it normal? I always thought it was z-axis binding or something, but finally noticed it was seam related and occurs everytime on the same print.

>>2406759
The retard that made this model fucked up and all the infill is literally top/bottom. I think lowering smooth time on pressure advance might have helped it. It prints beautiful layers if I do a big square, but once it does small fast back/forth narrow infill motions it squishes up at the edges and starts puddling, then that migrates to the whole layer. I guess there's a bug with Klipper not using the 'resonance compensation' movements when determining when to pressure advance, so it's changing extrusion at the wrong time maybe?

>>2406878
>threads here are full of mean people :(
FTFY.

The social media addicts love drama and are the most active, just wait for normal people to show up to the threads.

>>2406878
I can assure you my usual mcu forum is much worse than 4chin.
Just ask here...

I just ordered an ender 3 v2 + the cr touch thingy. It will be my very first 3d printer ever, I'm really excited. I've been lurking a bit but I guess I'll only truly know how to operate it once it arrives and I fiddle with it

Some quick questions; what tips do you have for a begginer? What are the usual upgrades people print for the printer you'd reccomend? Also, what slicer do you personally reccomend? Preferably one that is FOSS

>>2406936
My advice would be to go ahead and download Cura 5 now, and some models from thingiverse, and you can do some practice slicing and start learning what all the settings are.
Can't really help you with the Ender 5 though, I went straight to a Klipper printer after a month and never looked back. The Cr Touch will definitely help your prints though.

>>2406235
Nice, thanks.
>>2406754
Seems like a weird thing to get upset at.
I don't really have any other projects since I've been a neet for like 6 years.
Figurines are extremely expensive so i think those alone would be a good reason to 3d brint your own.

>>2406757
Looks like it could be a mimic type mob in an rpg

>>2404629
Yeah nah I sliced way more complex stuff in less than 10 minutes with my mobile i5 2500. His PC must have something wrong.

>>2405214
That is CUH-LEAN my friend.

>>2406939
is cura 5 in beta or something? The version I find in the archlinux repositories is the 4.13. Is there much difference? In the printer list it doesn't show the ender 3 v2, only the 3 and the 3 pro

>>2406757
Could have interesting purposes if it was printed in flexible material and lubed

>>2406049
under extrusion? check out the feeder if the gears are slipping

>>2406951
Cura 5 I think is either still in beta or just got out of it, although if you are using GNU plus Linux then maybe the latest you can get is 4.13. Was it worth it (nerd)?
I think you just go with the Ender 3 in the slicer and you'll be fine.

>>2404888
>All my printers make a Z band at the same points
It's where flowrate increases and the hotend cartridge goes beyond the temperature set.

>>2404791
Stepper voltage too low

Well that came out better than I was expecting. A bunch of prints have been looking shitty recently so that's a breath of fresh air.

>>2407078
That's a damn clean print, did you use any supports and what filament is that, I really like the color.

>>2407078
>cartoon voldemort
uh oh

>>2406484
>would paint

>>2406757
curve top teeth more downward maybe?

>Creality CR-10 S5
>shits itself overnight
>chinked
>blown capacitor right next to a perfectly good fuse (S-360-12 power supply)
>can only find S-400-12 schematics
Do I trust it? It says "220nF 275V X2"
Is there a meanwell power supply that'll fit in the box?

>>2407111
>Supports
Yes and they were painful to take off on the smaller scale one I tried. I had to reapply the wing with that one but it just wasn't worth the struggle so I found a nice clean bigger one and just went with that. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-my-little-pony-rainbow-dash-129228
>Filament
Inland PLA+ Light Blue. It's very nice, at least from the few prints I've done with it.
>>2407133
Huh?

>>2407212
Thats a (probably) MOV not a cap

>>2407231
you're right, the capacitor is the orange thing next to it
Going by the s-400-12 schematic it's probably a thermistor, labeled "5D-15"

>>2407245
>5D-15
That should be correct.

Trick question: will this fix it or is this just a symptom of a different problem?

>>2407246
Seeing as how it's on the line voltage side of the circuit, connected to neutral and before the rectifier, I can only assume we had a power surge last night. I'm not good at electronics though.

>>2404888
>Supports
I Found a forum post that helped a lot. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/prusaslicer/prusaslicer-hard-to-remove-supports/

>Buy Creality Spider Hotend
>Have to constantly remove the fucking tube to change filaments
Fucking why? Am I doing something wrong here?

What would cause layer shifts at around the same spots? It's not always the same layer height, but within a few layers of each other.

Ender 3
Cura slicer
Can't even print anything as pic related happens and won't print.
I just bought it and set it.
I've tried all kinds of setting on print speed and stuff. Also using creality filment.

>>2407422
Oh I'm a idiot. This happens in the extruder heater before the nozzle.

>>2407423
Did you try unclogging the nozzle?

>>2407434
Yes I completely unclog it and put it back together. Try and print and this happens every time. Even completely different prints like a bench test or something.

>>2407422
what am I looking at? is this a blob of filament that got stuck in the heat break because there's no PTFE tube?

>>2407440
This is just before the nozzle.

>>2407422
>>2407446
>before the nozzle
is your bowden cut flush and straight across?
are you pushing your bowden down against the nozzle as you're screwing it into the hot end? You need the seal to be REALLY tight

>>2407448
and are you heating the hotend when tightening the nozzle?

>>2407448
>>2407449
I stopped the bowden just at the connection on top of the extruder. So I need ot to go all the way to the nozzle? I was afraid it would melt it too?
No I am not heating it, didn't think of that but make sense.

>>2407471
you want to heat your hotend when you're screwing it in because of how metal expands and contracts when heated
and yes you want your bowden to go in until it can't go further, with the ender stock hot end I believe this means it sits right against the top of the nozzle, you want it squished in tight to ensure the filament can't ooze out like what's happened with yours
you may need to disassemble your hot end and hit it with a blowtorch to melt out the filament if it's clogging the threading for your nozzle but that's not necessary yet

>>2407475
Ok awesome, thank you for the advice. I give it a try.

>>2407227
>literal hot glue.

So I'm trying to figure out Nylon settings to reduce deformation, get at least SOME bridging/overhanging ability. Anyone have any suggestions for settings? I'm still juggling between filaments because I only have 1 printer.

Current setup:
CR-10s
Microswiss DD/Allmetal
0.4mm nozzle
Garolite bed at 60, and 80c (no change)
Nozzle Temp at 260c and 270c (no change)
0.2 and 0.28mm layer heights (maybe a bit better letters when I switched to 0.28
Creality Popup enclosure at about 80-85f (It's not externally heated, just residual from heating the bed and waiting
Cura 5
Part cooling disabled
45mm/s print speed
10 line brim
I have Arc welding enabled in my profile

Can't think of any other notable changes.
What would you adjust?

Pic related: My most recent shit pile of a calibration cube

>>2407522
I forgot to mention all my steps are calibrated, I can shit out good accurate cubes in babies first PLA all day. And I can very reliably spit out 100mm of nylon when I tell it to. So i don't think it's extrusion or the machine, I think it's settings, hence asking for settings adjustments

>>2407522
Fuck me, I also forgot, I have a drybox at 10% humidity as well, and im not getting and popping or steam out of the nozzle, it went straight from sealed to the box

>>2407522
>nylon
It looks like you left pressure advance/linear advance on? Maybe try 250C and make sure that stuff is off?

>>2405436
Sell geek printed shit to normies, you get a big plus if you learn to paint them.

>>2406484
Kinda looks like a mutated soldier that you would see in a H. R. Giger movie

>>2406509
oh wow I've never seen an FDM fuck up in a weird spiral pattern like that
nozzle temp too high maybe?
could still be file/slicer issues?

>>2407471
>I was afraid it would melt it too?
Ptfe tubes are good up to 230, which is already borderline since the ptfe gets already softer at this temp, 240 gets in the range of material degration, it starts to pyrolize and offgas formaldehyde, 250 .....nah teflon lined hotends suck. It limits what you can print despite what your chink printer manufacturer says

>>2407576
There are higher temp PTFE blends.

What are the usual upgrades for a new 3d printer? Raised feet, fan ducts, Axis hole covers, filament holders...

>>2407522
It looks like it's too hot

I've been to dentist recently, and they 3D printed (i think, not CNC) an overlay out of resin.
How strong is this shit? I'm thinking to buy an LCD printer and that dental resin, because I suspect it is a strong shit. And quality would be 10/10 as it is an optical process so no fusion issues.
>inb4: resin more expensive than printer

>>2407787
https://odsresin.co.kr/Product/cb-permanent-a1/?lang=en#
https://www.bego.com/3d-printing/materials/varseosmile-crown-plus/
>Harder than 304 steel
>Yield strength comparable to magnesium/aluminium alloys

But what about common resins? Dental stuff is like $1000 a liter I think.
Are they weak and only good for like 3D figurines?

>>2407745
My ender is modded to the point of exhaustion and here is my list of upgrades in order of importance:

1. BTT SKR Mini mainboard
2. Direct drive extruder
3. Fan duct with 5015 fan
4. Skateboard bearing spool holder thing
5. Squash ball raised feet

>>2407834
>BTT SKR Mini mainboard
How was the setup after you swapped it out?

My Ender3 is so old is has an 8bit arduino-compatible that can't even run modern Marlin.

>>2407907
Setup is easy as long as you can follow step by step instructions for compiling the firmware.

>>2407787
FWIW that's a Formlabs print from a Form 2 using one of their Dental Resins, so at most it's $350 per liter.

https://dental.formlabs.com/materials/

What's the absolutely cheapest way to turn a 3d pen into a 3d printer? I've seen designs that utilize junk dvd player parts, but those parts seems to only come from a very specific brand (that i can't find in my region)

>>2407787
Zero infill and polishing to get that finish. quality is no higher than your printer resolution. What do you need the strength for?

>>2408147
That's like asking how to airbrush with markers. By the time you have the air setup to blow the marker pigment off a $2 marker you might as well be airbrushing with paint.

My 3D pen (MYNT3D) has super shitty lag that makes it nearly impossible to use by hand and would make it a disaster to print with. It also turns itself off constantly. So my first assumption is you're just gutting the pen instead of a hot end, and tossing whatever board is included and also salvaging the extruder. So you're paying $30 for what is a $12 and $11 part, not to mention the separate hot end and extruder are already made to go on a larger frame, where the pen is an abnormally shaped tube you need to attach/support.

It seems a lot like something a maker with no content would do for a video, not something that you'd ever do out of necessity. If you have a 3D pen it would actually be much more useful to make some 3D parts for a gen 1 homemade printer rather than as salvage.

What tools do you keep by your machine? I have:
- spackle knife that I filed round on the corners
- two tweezers, one very thin and the other more substantial
- exacto knife
- small file set

Here's my problem.
After switching mainboards and then switching to Klipper, I tried printing a calibration cube and it looked perfect. Then I tried printing a vase of some kind and at a certain point I could hear my BMG clone extruder skipping and chewing the filament up and it would always miss printing certain things at a very specific step.
I used cura to slice both.

I now installed the stock but metal ender 3 v2 extruder because I thought the BMG one broke due to the skipping, I also replaced the entire e3v2 hotend with the same stock one.
Does anyone know why this was happening? I still didn't try printing yet because I have to set the z-offset again which is a pain in the ass, and my BLTouch graph on klipper looks all fucked up. Also, using the z-tilt adjust macro to make both z-axises level (each has its' own stepper driver) fucks things up and the difference keeps increasing.

What could've been the case with the vase missing lines? The BMG clone fucking up? A clog or bad nozzle?

Also, should I get a PEI sheet to replace the stock glass one? I'm scared that the glass plate might be warped from the factory but I just neer noticed it before.
I can post my printer.cfg from klipper.

Finally try Prusaslicer. Toolhead just busts through walls like the fucking Koolaid man.

>>2408280
Mesh always looks weird. If the right side is raised then you're hitting stuff. I just stick with the bare minimum 3x3 mesh on Klipper with a glass bed. DESU i wish it just did 2x2.

>>2408280
>Does anyone know why this was happening?
Just Klippper things. Klipper is a meme shilled here by one of the devs. It's a pain in the ass to use and troubleshoot all these weird issues.
>my BLTouch graph on klipper looks all fucked up
I have the same problem, Klipper can't do good ABL for shit. I ended up not using ABL at all.
I really should go back to Marlin but I'm fucking tired of dicking around with firmware.
>Also, should I get a PEI sheet to replace the stock glass one? I'm scared that the glass plate might be warped from the factory but I just neer noticed it before.
A PEI sheet is a good investment as it makes ABS adhesion a breeze but don't lie to yourself about the flatness. The glass is flat, or at least flatter than the PEI sheet will ever be. The spring steel is flexible so just because you clamp down the edges doesn't mean the center will be at the same level. Glass is perfectly rigid so it doesn't warp at the middle.

>>2408254
That's pretty much what I have, but a nice addition is separate recycling boxes for ABS and PLA. Just watch out; most filament recyclers don't want abrasives like glow in the dark or carbon filled scraps mixed in.

>>2404109
That first layer looks everextruded. Which is fine, but sometimes this happens.

>>2408254
I only keep flush cut nippers, a brass wire brush, and a piece of zip tie next to the printer. The zip tie is to dislodge dingleberries from the nozzle during the first layer. I don’t know why my printer has such an issue with dingleberries but the zip tie works.

>>2408254
several sets of pliers,
feeler gauges,
remote for LEDs,
IPA spray bottle,
spatula to scrape prints up,
magnifying light and exacto knife,
box of cheap metal brushes,
allen wrench set,
screwdriver set

Wish I had some good quick test pieces that would help dial in wall settings instead of doing a full print. Have a choice of either Z seam that's a hole (inside out walls), or a blob that gets dragged sometimes (outside in walls). Trying outside in with and without 'retract before outer wall' to try to minimize the occassional +1cm long Z band line it draws at the start of a seam. Managed to get another piecewith zero Z seams or banding aside from where flow changes. Hoping that by just printing slow (25mm/s for everything) I can get rid of that.
Prusaslicer sucks at solid infill. Anything less than a line width it just ignores and leaves a gap. Superslicer has features to improve on this but doesn't support one-direction only infill.
Cura does almost as well as superslicer, but it's completely retarded with my models and draws them up as entirely 'skin' with zero infill.
>>2408254
Spray bottle of alcohol and microfiber rag for wiping down bed after every print
Ender scraper
Sometimes tweezers
Hex wrenches
For part cleanup to get the psuedo-raft and elephants foot off I got a 'debur' tool,

I want to melt some filament/failed print scraps into useful general use shapes like square plates or rod but am trying to think of an easy way to get the shape to form. I'm thinking a cookie-sheet style metal mold but I don't think they make cookie cutters in these kinds of shapes. Ideas?

>>2403729
Try IceSL, developed by a research team so it's rough, but that shit is lit when it comes to supports and infills

>>2404096
Print sideways with some kind of support underneath, like in resin printing

>buy resin printer in Feb
>sit on it because there is no room to set it up
>finally convince roommate to clear some room in garage
>set it up
>first test print rook on mars3
>looks amazing compared to FDM
I’m going to be printing so many minis

>>2404467
got a creality MK8 nozzle kit on amazon and the 0.2 works fine, just don't go for the ultra cheap ones

>>2408556
Use high-temp silicone resin and make a mold

Just learned about this fucking adorable printer
https://www.crowdsupply.com/lite3dp/lite3dp-3d-printer

I wish I wasn't so late in knowing about it because it looks completely sold out

>>2408752
Or look at it this way. You can spend under twice as much as that for an Elegoo Mars and get almost 15x the build volume. And you still need to set aside the space equivalent to several printers for post processing anyways.

>>2408771
My reason for buying it IS that tiny build volume, wook at its widdle wesin vat

>>2408752
I saw a video on this, it's actually a really neat printer if you want to do like minis for all your d&d group or something
probably too small a plate to efficiently pirate warhammer minis or anything though

>>2408752
That's pretty cool, but isn't one of the main advantages of spooge printers the fact you can load it up with stuff in the XY plane, and only the Z dimension costs you more time?

Oh, man... What have I gotten myself into?

>>2408966
Based and Gulf Oil pilled

>>2408970
Haha, this color scheme is like an addiction! Oh well, there's plenty of much gayer things to do with my time.

>filament that used to work 10/10 times perfectly now cant even do simple prints
>same parameters
>calibrated steps
>still shit

how the fuck do you download all files on thingyverse?
When i go to a thing that has say 10 stl files in it, i have to click download one by one and it's fucking annoying and i don't see any button to download all of them

>>2408976
Just be grateful that they aren't making you sit through an ad before every single download like they were a few months ago.

>>2408976
open the files tab, the replace the URL where it says files with zip.
like turn
thingverse/thing:42069/files
to
thingverse/thing:42069/zip

Trying this one more time, does ANYONE know where I can get a happy merchant .stl? The best I'm going to be able to make is 2.5D, since I only know proper CAD and not the tranny kind.

I am too lazy to unscrew the top gantry on my ender to adjust the axis', so I need to print something to get me off the sofa

>>2403639
is anyone aware of the existance of a type of probe or pulse emitter that permanently measures the distance to the print surface of the three axis / respectively a printer that constantly monitors the actual printhead position and is able to make adjustments on the fly to keep accuracy ?
does such a functionality exist in open source printers ?

>>2408974
Hello fellow pixel user

>>2407522
>Part cooling disabled
You need at least 20% always on, and make sure its set to 100% for bridges.

>>2409022
you mean like an encoder?
what youre looking for is something like a servo, or closed loop stepper motor, the same sort of thing used on CNC machining centers or lathes

>>2407522
remember to preheat your enclosure.
If it's a CR10S with the 12V bed, I run the following preheat: 100C bed for 30 mins (total about an hour), then let cool down to around 60C before starting the first layer which maintains the enclosure temps in the 40~45C range. It doesn't seem like you have a moisture issue, moisture manifests in a lot of stringing and zits.
You might need a higher nozzle temp and more cooling. Nylon and abs can be counter intuitive in terms of nozzle temps and warping.

>>2408966
that some sorta mmu?

>>2409139
Enraged rabi feeder.

>>2409155
looks interesting, is it less fucky than an mmu?

How do I play my own songs on my 3D printer?
https://youtu.be/KAcoZfFrLAs?t=50

>>2407787
It’s probably brittle horse shit but it looks cool.

Why would anyone ever touch that chink garbage Ender when Prusa exists? Are you people masochists?

>>2409163
From what I've heard, no, there is still some fuck involved.

>>2409177
From the look of it, you would multiply your steps by your speed to get a note in Hz, then manually write gcode with alternating (absolute or relative?) X and Y moves with speed and distance corresponding to each note (just woke up, so not going to figure out the math on that right now), then every time it gets to an edge reverse direction of X or Y to give it that nice screensaver bounce effect. Probably no easy task, but I imagine it gets a little easier as you do it.

>>2409196
chinkshit is cheap while Schnoozef Prusa wants your newborn as deposit

>>2409177
Brushless motors are speakers, just power 1 of the 2 coils. RC motors do this

>>2408575
>really fucking want resin printer
>just have to finish garage remodel
>frame and finish basement
>build work area desk in basement
>buy resin printer
and I have zero time to myself to work on these things and no help

>>2408774
>the smolest dildoes

>>2408975
different roll? I bought another roll of my favorite ever filament and it was fucking trash, clogged nozzles every other print, constantly snapping in the bowden tube, printed half like shit. I finally gave up and threw away 3/4 of the spool.

>>2409196
>garbage Ender when Prusa exists?
This is asking why would people buy a Kia when Mercedes exists.

Serviceable and cheap enough you don't have to worry about overspending.

>>2409240
Make it happen champ

I'm an AutoCAD newfag, maybe someone here can help? I've tried googling but I don't know the right terminology

I have a layout with a drawing (model?) + Title block. I duplicated the layout using the "Move or clone" button so I can delete the drawing and add in another. But when I try deleting something, the drawing in the original layout also gets deleted. How do I only modify the new sheet without messing up the original?

>>2409242
resolution often has no correlation with build volume.
But I would buy that little machine with a 1080/2k screen in a heartbeat.

>>2409260
to get an ender printing reliably you end up spending as much as a prusa mini at the very least

I'm new in this, and I'm lookin for my first ever roll of filament, and I'm going crazy. Which brands do you reccomend that have good quality/price ratio?

I'm between creality and amazonbasics

>>2409289
>creality and amazon basics
Have you done any research at all?
In the $20~30/kg for most filaments you have Inland, Esun, Overture, Sunlu, hatchbox(quality has gone down considerably).

>>2409289
eryone's pretty good, I used to use overture since it was the cheapest for my filament choice but their spools are always tangled up so I swapped to an option that costs 3 dollars more

>>2409292
>>2409295
Those brands you mentioned sounded like chinkshit, in my unknowledged mind. The fact that most articles I found on the matter happened to be those AI generated fake blogs full of amazon referal links also didn't help.

I will look at them

>>2409275
Okay I figured it out. Turns out the viewport was locked, so I can pan around to the model without deleting anything after unlocking it

>>2406069
I dialed my Klipper Ender 3's down to 1/3rd speed (normal speed) and there was literally no diff of 100% vs 2 or 300% speed. All the same defects occur. Some anon suggested flowrate temperature changes causing defects so I did *everything* at the same slowass speed and it did nothing to change things.

A thread a year or two ago mentioned a Cura bug with 'odd numbered walls' that causes it to print a *very thin* unsupported external additional wall. Likely some retarded shit like that causing remaining cosmetic defects.

At least Cura isn't as retarded as Prusa when it comes to solid infill. Glad I work from home so I can see all the retarded gaps Prusa makes and cancel the print before someone gets hurt from a structural failure.
I'm beginning to think that the only people that actually use Prusaslicer are Prusa owners, especially since all the fanboys here can't give any reason why they like it aside from giving some vague sour grape statement on why they didn't want the extra Cura features anyways.

>>2409260
NnoOoOoo. Why buy 4 enders when you can wait 12 weeks and buy one Prusa!

On the other hand I find it hilarious that everyone just shrugs and says 'lol i dunno, tune it yourself' for the most ubitiquitous fucking printer, as if statistics on millions of stock enders doesn't yield a 'good enough' average setting. MRISoc FW defaults to an extruder gear size 20% diff than stock, it's like WTF.

>>2409395
Mine didn't have any issues for close to a year of frequent use. Most of my problems are down to me trying to modify it to be easier, like with a BL touch.

>>2409420
G29 by iself just works with specific FW's. There's more advanced leveling needed, also with X/Y offsets configured so it's not correcting the wrong spot. 2x2 or 3x3 with glass bed is good enough. If you can't crank the knobs on your bed to throw a corner off by +/- 1mm and it can still print then your prestart gcode is shit.

Glass bed G29 J2 is good enough regardless of how bad you fuck up the bed tilt. The amount of people that use broken gcode, waste time probing and then it does NOTHING is ridiculous. Try it sometime, crank one of your bed knobs 3x complete turns, do a 'mesh' or 'bed level' or whatever and do a 'bed level' test print and see how it comes out. If all your 'effort' in doing so is actually changing the result then it should print fine, otherwise it's just wasting time to feel good, results be damned

>>2409280
Mine's stock. Why are you incapable of running simple calibration tests?

>>2409480
>just calibrate it xDD
yeah let me just calibrate away all these torn wires and broken chinkshit parts!

>>2409459
I have never done any of this, don't know what 80% of that shit is, and my ender still puts out prints that look like this.
>>2409387
What the fuck is Klipper

>>2409486
Nothing's broken on my machine and hasn't broken in two years.
Sounds like a (You) problem.

>>2409488
klipper is another firmware for printers, supposedly better than the other options

>>2409490
Don't see why anyone would fuck with such a thing. Recipe for disaster.

>>2409491
REEEEEEEEEEE!

>>2409491
>>Don't see why anyone would fuck with such a thing. Recipe for disaster.
>car in drive-thru inches forward a bit
>slam on gas pedal 100% and then brake pedal 100% within microseconds of each other.
or instead of being a retard, Klipper does what a normal person would do and inches forward intelligently.

>>2409318
>amazon basics
>not chinkshit

>>2409595
awful analogy
if cars could go 100% speed everywhere regardless of the distance that would be great
your print head isn't several tons of gasoline propelled steel that carries humans inside it, safety is not a concern and power efficiency is below negligible
provide real examples

>>2409327
why using autoCAD for 3d design? it doesn't really have the best 3d part design tools

>>2409654
You seem like a redditor that likes to argue instead of a DIY person that wants to understand. I'm going to leave you to it then. Have a good day my brother in Christ.

Behold the 11 minute 27 second benchy.

>>2409675
That is a beautiful and functional benchie, and anyone who says different is a bigot.

>>2409654
he didn't say the car went to 100% speed, he said you put your foot down on the pedal 100%.
its a good analogy, even if you did only skim it.

>>2409764
excuse me then, if cars could go 100% acceleration everywhere regardless of distance that would be great
it's a bad analogy, there's no usable information in it, instead of using an analogy at all just provide real information about what klipper does or why having gradual acceleration is beneficial

>>2409491
I read their features page, looks like aside from being extensible its mostly just for accuracy and responsiveness of the steppers
I didn't find anything about gradual acceleration, which I was expecting to be a feature to reduce ringing, but it does have input shaping

>>2409675
The errors are obviously introduced by the chaotic vibrations of the googly eyes.

>>2407212
Others are right, its a MOV not a capacitor.
Also, it hasn't done its job properly either. It has absorbed some kind of transient event, but they are supposed to fail in short, such that they can blow the fuse and isolate the device.
Clearly the fuse is still fine, but you are lucky the transient event didn't kill other electronics.

I've noticed just a bit of underextrusion with this particular filament (Inland PLA) that I don't see with the pla+. It's at 190C as the spool suggests, so any ideas on what to tweak to fix that? Extruder should be good but I suppose I can check again.

Can anyone help me identify the problem with this first layer print? More pics here
>https://imgur.com/a/pZNsHtL

>>2410289
nozzle too far from the bed in certain spots, level your bed

>>2410289
raise the right side a tiny bit and then you're basically level

>>2410313
>>2410325
Thanks I will give that a shot

How do I straighten a rod out to near perfect?

>>2410458
switch hands every other time

>>2410458
?

>>2410462
Kekola

And alternate resting side in your pants

How hard would it be to create my own custom build of marlin for an ender 3. I can code, but theres a lot going on in marlin. Is there some sort of guide for this.

>>2410505
Are you doing this because you want to, or because you feel like you have to?

How do I exclude fuzzy areas in Cura. I used the 'support blocker' feature to add some 'cutting meshes' that only turn off fuzzy, which it does, but then those blockers end up drawing their perimeters also.
Why does prusaslicer always leave massive gaps in between adjacent inner walls. I have to crank up flow to +20% to attempt to fill them. Cura doesn't have this problem. All my printers do it at the same spot. I want to use Prusaslicer but it just seems to have constant underextrusion weirdness all the time. Is the connected infill ripping it off?
I tried bumping the temps up +15C with no diff, but I didn't play with fans, I'm always at 100% fans after layer 4. Using PLA+ equivalent

Wired up ADXL345 accelerometer to Klipper to measure resonance on Ender 3 v2. Literally no diff in 200% speed calibration cubes vs just the basic resonance tuning. Tried on multiple printers. Dunno if my squash ball feet are causing the problem or what. I'm using kitchen counter but no table I have seems to be flat enough for the stock ender feet to not have any wobble, plus the noise it transfers into the counter/wall is probably too loud for neighbors (although Klipper might have fixed that).
Just no matter what I do I get resonance lines/ghosting/ringing if I print any faster than ~20-25 on the outer wall. It's just something you can see if you hold it up to the light right. and not all filaments will show it. I know other people have had success with same printer at the higher speeds, I'm just not sure what they're doing diff.

>>2410831
Do you have the graph? I would try running the shaper at various different belt tensions. I was getting pretty dramatic differences with different belt tensions.

FWIW, I have the squash feet on my Ender too, and Klipper recommended 3900mm/s acceleration on y with 0% vibration which is what I set my machine limit to. X axis was something past 10k acceleration. Frankly I'm very happy it can move that fast without quality loss. I don't think the squash balls would hurt or help with resonances, but they sure do cut a lot of noise so I won't be getting rid of them for any reason.

#*# [input_shaper]
#*# shaper_type_x = 2hump_ei
#*# shaper_freq_x = 80.2
#*# shaper_type_y = mzv
#*# shaper_freq_y = 36.4

>>2410861
>>2410861
>>2410861
>>2410861

Found this guy on YouTube and got interested in trying out recycled PET as a filament. This video in particular is really interesting, the guy modified his printhead into accepting PET strips made from bottles without any additional processing. The only thing is that the video is ass and nigh incomprehensible so I don't understand what exactly he did to make this shit work. If anyone here is a 200 iq boy genius can you explain or better yet draw a simple diagram explaining how to perform this modification.
https://youtu.be/AmJzqdA3zSg