/diy/ - Do It Yourself

rubber band between screw and driver

>>1950610
Dremel and flathead

>>1950610
Apply heat, apply penetrant of choice, take a long lunch, come back and hit it with a LH twist drill bit.

For me? It's hammer a crater into the 12 o'clock position with a sharpened centerpunch and then hammer that crater counter clockwise

funny lookin rivet

>>1950612
Really? Not op but fuck it gonna try next time.

>>1950645
This only works if the thing preventing retraction is worn down grooves on the screw head. If the bolt is seized or has damaged threads/rust this one probably won't work but is so simple it's worth trying

>>1950610
I'd just weld a nut to the top and wrench it out.
But if you don't have a gas wrench then try PB blaster, time, and wedge another screwdriver in there.
>>1950617
>>1950615
both also good ways.

Looks like an intake rail.

>>1950610
This isn't even bad. Just get an impact driver and the right sized bit

>blowtorch, several minutes
>Pb blaster
>BFH (big fuckin hammer)
>Hammer the shit out of the head
>Flats ground parallelish to each other on the head
>A vice grip tightened to 11
>A prayer
>Hammer while turning counter clockwise
Should come right out

>>1950610
Still a little bit of Phillips left on there

>>1950610
JIS screwdriver. Even if the screw is phillips the JIS fits so much tighter you can torque the fuck out of it. Fucking love my nip screwdriver.

>>1950610
Heat and hammer a bit in before trying to cut or weld.

Another favorite technique of mine is hammer the next biggest size Allen/torx key in and hope for the best

>>1950614
the only answer

>>1950610
Pentrant oil. Then hit the top of your screwdriver with a hammer while you twist.

>>1950610
if i can manage to pull/unscrew at least the screw head, i vicegrip the fuck outta the screw

i would get it out with the correctly sized screwdriver.

Hardmode

>>1950755
Pretty easy, actually, Get three hard wires just big enough to jam in those holes (I use stainless filler rods), grab them with pliers, and turn the tap back out.

>>1950610
(possibly custom-sized) flat head screw driver and wd-40.

>>1950669

This is the correct answer.

>>1950755

Center punch and tap counterclockwise on the flutes to start loosening off the broken tap. If it breaks off then drill it out with a carbide bit. Either a carbide drill bit made for machining, a carbide burr for a die grinder, or a carbide tipped masonry bit that has been sharpened. It will get red hot and start drilling through the tap.

>>1950669
this. plenty left on that screw to get some grip.

>>1950755
lol "hardmode" that tap hasnt even rusted to the point of welding itself to the base metal yet.

>>1950755
Penetrating oil and needle nose pliers.

>>1950610
I've solved that many times. First I'd use a manual impact driver because the hammer drive forces the bit into the screw. I've done hundreds of vintage motorcycle case screws (before the socket head era) and it works on nearly all similar fasteners.
If no joy on a part like that one I MIG weld a large nut to the head. The heat (and dissimilar metal expansion, note the aluminum casting) usually frees the fastener easily but if not I've plenty of leverage.
If the nut twists off I pilot drill then drill or countersink to remove the screw head and remove the cover plate. Then I grip the stub if possible with a visegrip with sharp jaw ends and tighten the adjusting knob with another visegrip.
If no room then the usual drill, extract or drill and insert.

>>1950614
Stick the Dremel up your rectum and unscrew with a flathead.

>>1950864
Slow down there cowboy, you remove a welded rusted tap infront of me and I'll call you a wizard

Try half heartedly 5 times, then curse and go to bed angrily. Works every time.

>>1950814
The only time Ive ever had success in removing a broken tap is by going monke mode and just giving her hell with a punch and hammer, trying to shatter the thing. Sometimes it works. I've had 0 luck drilling out a tap, usually because I never have the (highly exotic carbide) drill in the correct size, and using hss is just gonna add fuel to the "godfuckingdamnit" fire

>>1951125

I've backed them out with a punch and hammer before, and I've drilled them out as mentioned with a masonry bit, high spindle speeds and a lot of pressure. Get that sucker hot and the carbide will start peeling out chips. And yes I have also beat the fuck out of them with a hammer and punch to break them out. As long as you still have enough material left to work with to get good threads it is an option.

>>1951216
What trade?

>>1951355
Urologist.

>>1950755
Ez. EDM the center out and then just tweezer the flutes once they fall into the center.

>>1950610
>>1950612
>>1950614
Doesn't anyone own an impact screw driver? It rotates when you hit it with a hammer so you don't strip your screws like this. Also use the correct size bit next time.

>>1951371
I assume the guy who posted a picture of one does.

>>1950610
>You should be able to solve this!
yes OP you should.

>>1950747
dude you stole my picture. My grandfather made that.

>>1951359
Based jack of all trades anon

>>1951371
OP here, I've just been googling pics of stripped and seized bolts and screws to start a discussion of removal techniques. Truth be told I'm sure I could get that one out with ease

>>1951371
See >>1951375
>>1950669

I was looking at a 1/4” drive model from another brand, a smaller one, but I’m not sure it would even be worth is because the smaller screws will normally turn irmf you lean into them hard enough with a normal screwdriver.

>>1951436
Get an impact driver like here >>1950669

They’re <$20 a lot of places. If you work on automotive stuff a lot, some cars have a screw that holds the brake rotor to the hub and it’s a pain without the manual impact driver.

Otherwise there’s the little speed-out bits, but those only really work when a screw is stripped by an idiot but not very tight. The other set is left handed drill bits, screw into the top of the screw, hammee the spiral extractor into the hole, turn it with a wrench. If that doesn’t work, send the left handed bit all the way in until it chews the remainder of the screw or bolt out.

And the sockets are extractor socket for nuts and bolts, hammer them on and try to spin it off.

>>1951355
>What trade?

Farmer/Rancher.

But I do a lot of machining and fabrication too.

>>1951430
Kys avatarfag

>>1950669
Was just going to post this.
OP's screw is like every screw that holds break rotors on. That impact driver works tits.

>>1950682
Yuuuup right thar

>>1950610
cut the sides off and use pliers

>>1950755
drill hole inside
break up the rest with centerpunch

CCW drill bit is fine too

>>1950610
Throw it in a crucible, get the fire burning hot, 3d print a replica, make a sand mold, then cast it from the beginning.

I refuse to do any work involving old rusted shit, stuck bolts or screws and compromised structural integrity.

It's [current year] and I don't have to deal with that shit.

Impact Screwdriver. Works wonders on shit like this. You can find a decently priced 1/2 drive Tekton on amazon.

>>1950716
>>1950614
This causes collateral damage and doesnt work most of the time, you usually break the head doing so

>>1950755
This is why you tap threads SLOWLY

>>1952231
This is why you buy HSS taps instead of shitty carbon taps

For me, it's the impact screwdriver and a singlejack.

>>1951993
More trouble than they're worth

>>1952231
Chip management is more important than how fast you turn it. A machine taps at way faster of a RPM than your hands turning a tap wrench. It is best to always have the appropriate tap for the type of hole and material. Though you never know when you just get lucky, lol.

>>1950610
I generally push a screwdriver in, press down and keep a slight pressure counter clockwise as I tap on it with a hammer. works almost every time.
you can also buy one of those backwards drillbits that are meant for unscrewing fucked screws, I've never been desperate enough to buy one though.

>>1950781
Would this really work? Anyone tried this?

>>1951943
This, if you ever have to change the rotors and they are held in with screws. A impact driver will be save your sanity.

>>1952798
No. That won't work.

1

>>1952798
That is similar to how a tap extractor works. They just have 3 - 4 small tabs that will fit into the flutes of most common taps and then use that to get enough grip to back it out. I built one once and had a bit of luck with it, but it's still not a 100% solution. Usually when a tap breaks it's stuck pretty fuckin' hard.

>>1950610
Looks like you could probably wedge the right sized Robbie bit in there.

>>1953073
This. Unless you broke it with careless side pressure, it is usually jammed with the force of 1000 suns.

>>1953073
I thought about making an adjustable spanner for this, but taps that big are the easy ones to get out with just a chisel. In my experience breaking a 4-40 or 6-32 means you're fucked

>>1950615
First this
>>1950614
Second this
>>1950655
Rolling the melting machine over is the last option,

If the head snaps off I’ll drill it out and helicoil or tap one size up.

>>1950610
Depends why the head is stripped. If it’s just from overuse of the screw, I’d just take a dremel to it and use a flathead to unscrew it from there. If it’s in tight enough that unscrewing it simply isn’t an option, take a drill bit suitable for drilling through metal, and just slowly drill through the damn thing. If neither of these is an option, you’ll probably have a better time replacing the board.

>>1950781
this is never working if that tap is even remotely stuck in there unless it's fucking huge and the pockets are big enough to get some thick-ass rods in there.

>>1953723
It's effectively an improvised spanner wrench, like the other anon said. And you can get significant torque on hard wires with something like a pliers wrench. Cold-drawn 316 filler can top 250ksi tensile strength (it tears up normal wire cutters), and its ductility and work hardening means that if you get it jammed in something tight, it can hold to tensile failure.

>>1953743
You have never done this and it won't work. You are a larping faggot who has never seen a tap before.

>>1953768
Same thing with the anons who love these >>1951993 I’m not so sure they have ever used one, because when a tap or nut or bolt is fucked and the normal tool won’t work, it’s typically because it’s overtightened or seized.

>>1953783
The order if operations for removing a stuck tap is as follows.

1. Needle nose pliers.
2. Cold chisel counter clock wise taps
3. Cold chisel. Full retard smashing it out.
4. Step 3 fixed it, go have a beer.

>>1953783
I have had an unopened set of extractors in my toolbox for over a year now. If an extractor works, then the other methods would work also (and probably better)

If you break the tip of an extractor off in a bolt now you have oil hardened tool steel wedged in a mystery material bolt, which will be absolutely impossible to drill out with a cordless and hss bit. You can try, you'll just shred the fuck out of your bit no matter how fast or slow you go. It just won't work. Fuck extractors

>>1953800
This. Especially pic related. There has never been a screw that these were capable of removing that I couldn’t get out by just leaning into the screw head with a regular screwdriver, like the next size up phillips.

>>1953800
>>1953822
On the other hand, some of these bolt extractors are ok. But they don’t always work because sometimes the bolt gets rounded as a result of the threads being seized like a mo’fucker, so the extractors will grip and slowly shave off bits of the bolt as you get torque into it.

>>1950610
That's not to stripped to remove with the correct size driver. Just push real hard and rotate.

>>1950610
50% Atf and 50% acetone(nail polish remover) to unseize

>>1950661
I used to do this to my old Ford Taurus lugs
>2000 Taurus
>Steelies for wheels
>lugs have threads on the back for the fake alloy wheel cover's fake lug nuts to screw into to hold it in place
>fuck the fake alloy wheel cover hub cap thing and run based steelies
>still use the same lug nuts with the open end made for the wheel cover to screw into because lol why not
>running open ended lug nuts that allow the elements to access the inside of the lugs/studs
>live in rust belt
>have 250k+ miles on the car
>all lugs are seized all the time
Soaking overnight in PB Blaster and hitting with a portable torch was the only way to change wheels on that car. Brake lines rotted out at 275K and I drove it onto the bed of the truck that came to hall it away to sell for scrap as part of a drug addict charity. Based teen challenge of the midlands got a free shitheap.

>>1952842
>>1951943
Definitely mandatory on those jobs.
Now this might be a dumb question but I never understood how an impact driver could turn a stripped screw head. You would think it would cam out like everything else. So how does a impact bite better into the screw head?

>>1950610
Ahh ye olde 2 stroke outboard motor, bonus points for salt water use.

>>1951371
>Doesn't anyone own an impact screw driver?
I do after working on outboard motors. Too bad it just snaps the screw rather than stripping it.

Outboard motors are just a nightmare in general, if you're ever going to deal with them then buy new and dump it on some gullible sap before it gets too old.

i fucked up a wood screw and it was GG. i just cut off the head and hammered it into the wall. is there a way to remove wood screws other then that?

>>1954612
There's still a bit of the phillips head for it to bite, but not much. The hammering of the impact driver will force it into the screw while turning so it will have a better chance of getting a grip on what is left of that screw and turning it out slightly. And once it moves a bit it should get easier.

>>1950610
>no mention of screw grab or friction paste yet

That screw is not that bad. Put some paste on there, get the correct bit, get a long lever for that steady high torque and put some proper pressure on the screw.

This works quite often and if it doesn't the worst thing that'll happen is breaking the bit.

>>1954646
>bonus points for saltwater use
This was what happened a couple months back, I almost got caught in a trap. The neighbor’s boat with an inboard Volvo motor had a bad starter, he comes over asking me for help because the boat mechanic wants like $2000 to replace a $100 part,

I stuck my head and shoulders down in there, saw the bolts for the starter were on the bottom rear of the engine, a few inches from the fiberglass hull. Then I see there’s still saltwater sitting in the bottom of the hull. I told him hell no, there’s a 50% chance I’m going to destroy one of those bolts and it will be fucking impossible to extract in that spot without pulling the whole engine out.

So he brings it to the other neighbor’s car mechanic, they swap the starter but the hardware is stripped when the put the new one on, so the first time he starts it, there is an awful grinding noise, he has to bring it back and they end up tapping the hole or sticking a helicoil in there, all from a nearly impossible area to reach.

Glad I passed. Fuck salt.

>>1954732
What is this miracle? Please tell me this shit actually works and I'll buy it today.

>>1954830
You guys need to use grease and anodes. Also pony up for brass, stainless or plastics. Cheaper in the long run.

>>1954842
Not my boat. Plus he doesn’t store it in the water. I don’t think anodes will do shit in that case, and using brass and stainless on everything will far outweigh the costs of a few sticky nuts every couple years.

>>1954834
I have never heard of that shit before, but I bet it’s the equivalent of pic related, some diamond dust slurry for more grit.

>>1954834
It doesn't really work and just gets shit dirty.
But if you really want to buy it, it's just Lapping Compound they put in smaller bottles and sell for a premium. Get lapping compound at the auto parts store

>>1950755
"First you break the chip, then you break the tap."
As others have replied, penetrating oil and GOOD needle-dick pliers.

>>1950610
>>1950755
I'm going to make up a few of these to keep around the shop. When lookie-loos come around shooting their cock-holsters off about "yeah, back in the day..." I'll give them one of these to either: A) keep them bus yand out of my fucking way for an hour or nine, or 2) get them to fuck straight off AND STAY THERE!

>>1954880
Kek, that’s a good idea. Snap a tap, next time my wife comes in the garage like “Let me help!” i’ll send her over there.

>>1954855
So it is just some gritty shit?

>>1954884
It's literally grease with silica in it

>>1954887
Ahh just what I figured.

Sounds like another one of those solutions that only works in situations where the screw isn’t that tight and you could probably remove it by leaning into the screwdriver without anything else.

>>1954880
I work with retarded guys that swing their dicks around all the time about how skilled they are when they can't remove broken bolts and won't even try. It's the best feeling in the world and a huge fuck you to some cocky asshole to come behind him and pull a broken bolt out of his shit

>>1950682
you philistine

>>1950610
I once soldered a worn screw head to another screw to remove it.

>>1953768
I've done it multiple times. It's worked flawlessly every time. Do you not understand the procedure here?

>>1955676
New guy here: I believe you, but I have to wonder how you keep breaking so many taps. I can understand breaking one or two. Are you using garbage taps, trying to tap material that is too hard, or are you a reckless spaz?

>>1950610
1: demoralize: call it a worthless soft iron alloy piece of shit. Any harder, less ferrous, harder alloy wouldn't have failed like this

2: destroy any remaining confidence: take grade 5 or better bolts and run them through a thicker plate

3: scare: take a smithing hammer and hit the areas around the bolt but do not hit the plate

4: give one last chance to give up: take a phillips 3,4 and calmly coo to the bolt as you try to loosen it

5: counter uncooperation: keep a firm expression as melt similar bolts in a stove and form them into an XXL buttplug

6: get dirty: if it hasn't popped out on its own yet, take a tap and die and take back what's yours

>>1955678
I average one broken tap every few years. Most often in stainless.

What about breaking a small tap like 10-32 and under? Is it just over at that point?

>>1950755
Drill out straight down the center. Take a tap and remove whatever is left. eZ

>>1950610
Use a dremel to cut a flathead slot into it.

>>1955867
This is the pleb approach. Flatheads fucking suck when they’re machined properly from the factory, so now you’re going to expect a half assed flathead to grip better than a proper phillips that stripped out from the torque required to turn it?

The only way this solution and some od the extractors and other tricks work is if some idiot just spun a driver bit around the original head without putting any pressure on it, so the screw isn’t tight or seized, but rather fucked by an idiot.

>>1954518
One time I had seized lugs and then a stuck wheel that was bad enough I had to do the Mr. Toad's wild ride thing with loose lugs to break it free. Since that day I smear a little anti-seize on all the threads, on the mating surface on the back of the wheel, and I torque to spec. Never again. Imagine getting a flat and you need a tow because you can't put on the spare.

>>1955893
Nigga this is /diy/. We do NOT dial Triple A under any circumstances.

>>1955897
I didn't have to that time. But you do when you're unprepared and don't take care of your shit.

>>1955732
Stainless and Ti are the worst I've encountered, especially custom 465. I've ever had to tap copper though. Judging from it's ability to randomly smear it is likely fairly bad as well I'm guessing.

>>1955893
>>1955903
If I have a shop touch my wheels, I make sure to properly torque them when I get home. A few years back I got new tires at the Goodyear joint, they slammed the lugs on so hard, literally like semi-truck torque. It was only some weeks after I got the new tires, I got a nail in one so I was going to plug it at the gas station before doing more damage. Grabbed the ~18” long tire iron, one of those L-shaped guys from the spare kit, try to take the wheel off to plug it easier, the lugs were so tight that the wrench twisted at the L-bend and got cockeyed on the nut and rounded it.

Luckily I was able to plug it on the car, so I didn’t have to call a tow. When I gor home, I realize glorious Chrysler products use those lug nuts with a hard chrome cap and some soft metal under, so when I tried to get an extractor on there, it split off the chrome cap, then I pound on the next smaller extractor, and the lugs are so tight that even with a good bite, it shaves off chunks of metal before cracking the nut loose.

Ended up having to drill out the stud, replaced the stud and the nut.

>>1955911
Yep yep. I found this out last time I put new tires on my XJ. Half of the janky OEM lugs were riven in two by the gorillas. I stood there facepalming while a guy on one side torrup the lugs and the guy on the other side put them back on at 3 million foot pounds in a circular pattern. Interestingly, buying new solid lugs at the local parts store was like a hotdog:bun ratio conundrum for 5-lug wheels because I do not care about anti-theft lugs. That interior faux-lug nut was some really weird size. I don't remember what it was.

>>1955926
Yeah the inner soft lugs were something around 16mm-17mm once the chrome cap came off, 19mm originally, but none of the metric or SAE sockets would fit well, even trying to hammer on a 12pt.

I ended up drilling like 2/3 of the way through the center of the stud, took enough pressure off the lugs thay I was finally able to get a grip with the extractor and spin it off.

When I youtubed the issue, I found out I wasn’t the only person with a Chrysler vehicle to learn that the typical methods don’t work on those pot metal lug nuts.

>>1955933
I saved mine in a ziploc bag in my junk parts box for shits. What I found particularly amusing was that the two halves were stuck together with a tarry black glue. Looked like the shit they use on interior door panels. Did Chrysler really do this, or did the goober previous owner do it?

>>1955946
I didn’t see any glue like that. Just a shitty hard chrome pot metal on top and a soft metal underneath.

>>1950610
Bernzomatic Oxygen/MAPP gas torch kit

>>1955956
From every real review I head about these, it’s not really worth it. They say the o2 tanks are finished in like 2 min. And the MAPP used to be real solid but they changed it to a safer gas that doesn’t get much hotter than propane. For all the trouble, especially running through all those expensive red o2 tanks, a small oxy-acetylene torch is a better buy all around.

>>1955994
How hot can you get mild steel with a propane torch?

>>1957507
Adiabatic flame temperature of propane-oxygen is about 4000 degrees F, but various issues mean that you can't practically achieve anywhere near this temperature with a hand torch on chunks of steel (which is why oxy-acetylene at 2300 degrees hotter is preferred for welding). You could get close to that with a thin steel wire held in the hottest part of the flame (where it would melt into a ball of liquid on the end of the wire) or with a specialized heat-managing enclosure like a steel-melting furnace.

>>1955994
>From every real review I head about these, it’s not really worth it

Can confirm, I used to have one until I sold it on CL months ago. The oxygen tanks don't last for shit, you'd be lucky to see 10 minutes out of one.. For what you get, they're a straight ripoff at like $10/ea.

>>1950617
Based technique. Personally I always liked biting into shit like that with a sharp chisel, but a punch might make more sense with a smaller screw.

>>1950755
weld over the hole, drill a new one next to it.

Hammer

>>1951371
>Doesn't anyone own an impact screw driver?
Tool of choice when working on old motorcycles.

>>1950610
JB weld to metal piece and turn

>>1950610
Tell a jew that you left a quarter under that sheet of metal

1. jam a flathead in
2. superglue it to a dowel
last resort - drill it out

>>1954887
Used to be sold under the name Screw Medic. It's passable for smaller screws. Not the greatest but it's worth having as a last resort assuming you didn't turn the head into a donut already.