/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Here is what inspired me to make a bench
>decide to try out my wood carving chisels
>sharpen all of the chisels
>attempting simple shape in pine while holding wood on lap
>gouge slips
>goes straight into my hand
>rush inside
>tell my lady I JUST STABBED MYSELF WITH A FUCKING CHISEL
>go to sink
>running water over wound
>lots of blood in sink
>take my hand out of water
>hand is still cupped
>hand fills with blood
>get light headed
>collapse
>die
>at entrance to afterlife
>angel is there
>its paul sellers
>tells me it isnt my time
>tells me i have work to finish
>wake up on kitchen floor
>lady tends to wound
>keep at woodworking daily
>cant disappoint the angel sellers
>pic related

>>1630188
what a fucking gay idiot it takes a real fag to stab yourself with a shaving tool
I bet the angels couldn’t accept you because their hands were too weak to fill out the paperwork because they were laughing at you

>>1630190
>overcompensating

>>1630190
Yeah tell me about it...

>>1630188
It amazes me the horrible body positioning some people use when working. Just yesterday a new guy was getting on a 24 inch crescent wrench on a fitting, I told him I thought he would when the fitting broke lose. He ignored me and he did fall.

Body positioning blokes. It really is important.

I recently moved and am trying to set up my shop.
I mostly do basic stuff with pine lumber and plywood, but also simple Medieval furniture and odd projects, especially for the 'new' (1960's) house.
I have very limited storage space and have reduced my large tools down to a scrollsaw and drill press, both on bases. I have been waffling on getting a portable table saw, but I have been using a saw guide and circular saw and it has been mostly adequate.

I used to have access to a real woodworker's shop for when I needed something I didn't have.

My next big project is to build a post and beam shed to be able to store things better and to use up my stock which has no place to go.
I have a fair set of powered hand tools. My scrollsaw is in the shop and sort of usable for small things., I have nowhere to put the drillpress. I plan to put them on locking wheels and be able to move them out in the open. My drillpress may have to end up in the shed. It is probably not practical to make the new shed the shop.

Opinions on layout, suggestions on additional tools, advice on how awesomely useful a biscuit joiner is, etc are all welcome.

I've only ever used direct drive table saws and my current one (found on side of road) is ear splitting. Are belt driven or worm drive saws any quieter?

>>1630319
Usually yes, but that has alot to do with the size of the saw too. Bigger saws, along with being belt driven, are also heavier so some of that motor noise is absorbed. It's the same as going from a shop vac to a dust collector. Less motor noise but more woosh. In the end, even if it's just as loud, the pitch is less headache worthy.

Whats a good brand miter box brand?
I've been using a craftsman that I bought to make a couple frames for my weebshit. It was fun and I wanna keep doing it, but the miter box is worn out after ~16 cuts. Or is that normal?

>>1630225
In carving there are times when you have to work towards the body, the whittlers grip is a good example, it gives great control and power, but you are pulling the knife towards your thumb, the draw knife is a tool designed to have you in the line of fire at all times, and sometimes the only way to support the work is with flesh. We develop many tricks and techniques that make such things more or less safe and these are the source of the old adage that a sharp tool cuts the wood, a dull tool cuts flesh, you sacrifice control when you increase the force trying to force a dull tool through the wood. We can minimize the risks greatly when performing such maneuvers, but flesh is soft and wood does what wood does, sometimes the piece just splits and suddenly there is no longer that resistance of the wood between that sharp edge and your flesh.

That said, holding work in your lap is about the stupidest thing you can do, >>1630188 is lucky the chisel went into his hand and not that big artery in his thigh.

>>1630341
>>1630319
This but also the blade is a big part of it. Any good table saw will not sound like much powered on. My old Unisaw sounds like a fan set on low when running. Once you start pushing the wood through it gets quite loud.

If your saw is making a lot of noise before you even start cutting you probably have a jacked up bearing. Direct drive table saws are fucking garbage and the last owner probably chucked it because the cost of a good bearing and the labor needed to install it was probably close to the price of a new Chinesium saw to begin with.

>>1630368
It wore out because your saw has too much set in the teeth, but they are more or less sacrificial jigs, 16 cuts is a very short life. If you can afford it, go with one of the fancier miter boxes saw setups like the Nobex, if not you may be best off use a cheap box to make a donkeys ear and then you can just free hand the the miter and use the donkeys ear to fine tune the miter to perfection.

Pic related is a little on the fancy side, but should give you the idea, google can fill in the rest.

>>1630250
You dont have enough large furniture listed.

I made a scale drawing of my space on graph paper, and then made scaled paper rectangles of my shit,l. Eg drill press, table, toolbox1 toolbox 2.

Then just sit down for 10 minutes and you can move your furniture around on paper until you get something with decent flow

>>1630375
>If you can afford it, go with one of the fancier miter boxes saw setups like the Nobex
I look into this, saving up a few bucks is not deal breaker. thanks

>>1630319

What kind of saw? If it's a cheap one with a universal motor and a gear reduction, yes, those things are stupid loud. I used to own on of the B&D Firestorm table saws (which, by the way, is the worst tool I've ever owned), could easily hear it down the street. I've been around enough equipment (and my own RAS) to know that those with induction motors and direct drive or belts are much quieter.

That being said, the blade is the major contributor to sound, regardless of what kind of drive it has. It's never really going to be quiet, even if the machine itself is barely a whisper of noise. Still, going to a nicer saw will definitely shave a few dB off over one with gears.

>>1630375
>>1630387
I got a miter box just like this one, with a Disston saw, for $10 at a yard sale. I've seen others that were around $30-$40 pretty regularly.

>>1630415
I have the Miller Falls version of that, they are good boxes, but the Nobex style blows them away. Having replaceable blades is quite handy, not stuck with a single number of teeth and set since you can just swap in a new blade and the design means the teeth can never bump the guides and get dulled and they even make versions that can do compound angles.

Riddle for you wood anons - Name the one wood plane where the shaving is the product not the waste?

>>1630551
Anything used in Japanese marquetry.

I need a straight rip fence fory table saw because the fence that came with it is not perfectly straight (got the whole setup for $50 so I should have known something was up), it seems like most new fences cost $200+ for something decent.
Should I just build my own? Anyone done something like that before?

>>1630450
Spill planes and spelk planes are the two most common, but the shavings from most planes are a common source for veneer and the like.

>>1630556
They generally use a standard plane for that more or less, there are some minute differences but they are very small differences that the Japanese love to obsess over. They do have a few specialty planes for such things including their plane for making wood paper, which is almost identical to the western spelk plane.

>>1630556
Well, I guess that could be one answer, I was thinking of a spill plane. Just restored this one and having fun with it.

>>1630385
Thanks for the response.
I posted what is there currently, not counting the stacks of lumber and plywood.
The carport is intended to be used by 2 vehicles when the shop is packed away.
The 10' table is really the only area of the carport that is entirely out of the weather.
I understand what you suggest, I am struggling with what tools and how to store them.
I have a set of portable benches and sawhorse tables that I set up as needed.

>>1630368
The best miter box is no miter box. Buy a japanese style pullsaw (no set in the teeth) from Garrett Wade and learn to cut to a line. You'll be more skilled and won't look back.

Thoughts on the Work Sharp WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener?

>>1630582
Spoken like someone who has not done much wood working. Does not matter how good you are, wood is a natural material and its properties are not consistent through its thickness, a denser spot in the wood can deflect the saw ruining the cut, especially the thin bladed saws. Knowing how to cut to a line is a great skill that everyone interesting in wood working should learn, but the only people who preach it as an all out replacement for a miter box are people who are either trying to sell something or do not do much wood working. A good miter box really shines when you have to cut a good number of miters.

Personally for this sort of cut I prefer the western carcass saw, cutting on the push means you can work against a bench stop. I do not know why you would advocate a saw with no set for working across the grain other then ignorance, the vast majority of the time the wood is going to pinch that blade if there is not enough set in the teeth to provide enough relief. I suppose you could clamp both ends of the wood being cut, but that just adds work and if you can cut to a line having a little set in the teeth is no issue and will cut quicker due to the increased ability to clear saw dust.

Also, only a few Japanese saws commonly have no set in their teeth and none of them would make good saws for miters.

>>1630586
They are quite nice for gouges, but not that useful otherwise. Everyone who I have known that has bought into any of these sharpening systems has given it up after awhile because of getting sick of having to feed it, they all switched to learning to freehand on bench stones and view their time with the sharpening systems as folly.

>>1630551
how about some sort of veneer making plane?

Uncle gave me my grandfather's old bench.
I'm going to sand it back, what should I coat it with after? I have heaps of linseed oil already.
The top is pretty fuckered so I'm just going to flip the boards over, would it be a bad idea to biscuit and glue it into one solid board?
Also, it's 3 boards wide plus half a board, Don't know if I should remove the half a board and adjust the frame to fit.
>Pulled 50 nails out of it
was probably my cousin and I when we were kids, strange what comes back to bite you.

>>1630646
I would just use it as is, do not try and pull it apart to remake it into something it is not, like you said;
>strange what comes back to bite you.
Looks like a good and sturdy bench, just inlay some wood into any bad damage, dowel to fill nail holes and get to work.

>>1630646
I'd personally coat it with something strong- maybe poly if you're not doing any heat-related stuff. If not, I'd go with a wax

>>1630653
Is there any reason you wouldn't touch it or just sentimentality/superstition?
He's not going to come haunt me for fixing up his bench. I have keepsakes to remember him already.
The top really is fucked, the wood's soaked with oil or something and soft in places.
Seems like he decided what size he wanted it before buying the material, hence the fraction of a board.

>>1630660
how wide is the 2x4 on the bottom on the short side?

>>1630660
Just see no point in dealing with reworking it and do not see how any of the change will improve it in anyway, removing the half board just so the top can be 3 full boards just makes no sense and is not worth the effort. The oil soaked into the top is not going to hurt anything, and soft spots can just be routed out and patched. Couple hours work and the bench is up and running and ready for a project.

>>1630663
2"x4"x3'

The planks on top are 40x300x1900mm
and it's exactly one third of a plank extra.
Looks like he just wanted to make it exactly one meter deep.

>>1630664
I have more time than projects at the moment, haven't even moved half my tools into the shed so it's the perfect time to get the bench how I want it.
Flipping the boards over is much less work than routing anyting

>>1630672
isnt there three full planks on top and two of the smaller bits?

>>1630678
Just one smaller bit at the back of the photo, looks like another one at the front because the board's cracked.

I'm practicing making cuts like in this video right now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHlCoOe_a60 . I'm using a hobby knife set from Harbor Freight with a blade similar in style to what the guy is using in his video. However, the blade is quite thin, similar to an X-acto knife.
Should I be worried about breaking the blade? I feel like I need to get a specific knife for this type of work. I was thinking about maybe a pfeil Swiss made knife. The knives aren't too expensive and are available locally at Woodcraft.

/wwg/, I live in a really small room, but would like to try my hand at wood working. Is it possible? What tools do I need to buy? Techniques? I have some ideas, but I feel like my understanding is too superficial to make a good judgement.

>>1630847
They are worth getting and will be a big step up, assuming you take the time to learn to sharpen them properly. Many cuts in carving exploit the shape of the blade to define the shape of the cut, working with the tool instead of against it, having the proper knives will help you develop a feel for when the knife is following its natural path through the wood and when you are forcing it. The thicker blade will also help prevent the knife from following grain lines and going off at odd angles, also make it easier to go against the natural path of the knife when you need to make such a cut. Pfeil is good stuff.

>>1631006
A smooth plane, a ryoba, a few chisels a couple 12" hand screws and a reasonably sturdy table that you can clamp too is all you really need. Make sure the table has and overhang around the end for the clamps so you are not trying to clamp onto the apron or around drawers. I made do with just this setup for years, made alot of stuff with that setup. Spend the time to learn to sharpen shaving sharp before you start in on wood, don't just think it is sharp enough, when you do not have a proper bench you need things sharp.

Reposting my question from /ohm/ here, if anyone's got tips:

>>1631098

>>1631101
Craft stores often have unfinished wooden boxes in various sizes and woods for sale for cheap if you want a quick fix. Box making is a big subject, there are just so many ways to build a box and everyone has and opinion as to what makes the best box, what is the simplest, what is the worst and so on. It would probably be best to just get a book on box making from the library/store/internet to start with, that will allow you to narrow down your needs, see what tools you need, what tools you want to use, various construction techniques, and most importantly will allow you to ask more direct less vague questions such as, I like this sort of box and they show how to make it with such and such tools, can I make it with a different sort of tool I already have, and so on.

Can anyone ID this wood?

>>1631180
Douglas Fir if you are in North America.

>>1631180
looks like wood

>>1631184
The grain looks so tight, I must be getting shitty Douglas Fir because it looks nothing like the door. I would estimate the door is at least as old as the house, which was built in the late 70s I think.

I did this with rough cut white oak. Not sealed yet. Made the cutting board out of some of the scrap.

100 dollars for the wood and 16 hours of my time. which is worthless.

>>1630646
that looks like a good work bench. why do anything to it other than work on it?

Any general advice on wood shops in cold climates? should I just put all my tools and machines in a basement work shop and forget about insulating and heating the garage?

>>1631214
i took my old oil furnace and put it in my detached barely insulated garage. works great. i get shitty oil from work for free. this probably doesn't help you.

>>1631214
That is why I switched to hand tools originally, pushing wood through a table saw does nothing to keep you warm, sawing wood with a hand saw will have you shedding layers in no time.

How to store chisels and wood carving knives in an organised fashion while still keeping each individual tool easily and readily identified without pulling it out and looking at the tip?

>>1631235
tool rolls are quite nice and show the tips instead of the handles.

Despite what some think, the handle goes into the pocket of a roll, not the tip, the pocket will not last long if you jam that sharp edge in all the time.

>>1631243
That's one way to do it. Not a bad idea considering I have no drawers in which to store or walls on which to hang. All of my tools have just been going in buckets or plastic bins.
I guess I'll have to pick up a bolt of canvas or something. All I wanted to do was carve some shapes in wood, guess I can add tailoring to my list of half-assed skills.

>>1631343
They can just be bought for not much money, but they are not hard to make and rather forgiving of poor sewing skills. I would not bother doing them with needle and thread but if you have access to a machine they are quick and simple.

>>1630250

Are hand planers an acceptable substitute for a benchtop model?

>>1631490
Not really. They are super aggressive even on the lightest setting.

I havent tried it yet but I'm working on using one to level out a bench top I made with a bunch of pallets.

>>1630653
This. Maybe pin a temporary plywood top on if it satiates the autism

>>1630191

Seriously. People stab themselves with chisels all the time. Yeah, best be careful, but you use them enough and it happens.

>>1631214
In wood shops you should watch the humidity as long you building furniture thats set up in the house, around 50-60% where i live.

>Want to drill a straight hole at a right angle
>Decide to use the downey levery drilley machiney
>It doesn't go high enough with any of the bits I have
What do?

>>1630107
Hey guys, I've wanted to get into wood working for a while since my father does this kind of stuff. Are there any links you have for beginners to starter activities and the like? I mainly just want to be able to make basic, rustic furniture since buying it online is overpriced and doesn't give me the opportunity of putting my character into it

>>1631587
>live basically near a rain forest
>RH can get super high
>pic related happens in a single day
T-thanks

>>1631680
Clean it up and grease it, tallow, lard, coconut oil all work well. You can also just paint everything but the sole and grease that.

>>1631684
What do I clean it with, just some steel wool?Would some type of machine oil like sewing machine oil be better for oiling it? Has anyone used bacon grease for this application?

>>1631629
https://youtu.be/46QsjgU2VD0

>>1631782

I can't stand most youtube videos, but that guy was cool. He simply covered the important points and moved on, no "yeah, I need to clean up this mess, but I had to mow the back yard blah blah blah", or endless chatter about minor details. Liked and subscribed.

>>1631800
I thought so too.

>>1631782
That's good data, I'll have to try that last one.
It's one of those wide tipped hole drills, 27mm, so none of the others would really work.
I'm a bit worried that it won't be able to stabilize it properly though due to the uneven sides of the bit.

I'm thinking of making a mallet.
The design would be simple. 3 pieces of 2x4 Doug Fir cut square to ~3.5 inches and planed. Then glue them together. Following that, drill a centered inch hole for an oak dowel, which would be glued in place. Then, somehow shape the 3.5x3.5 cube to round, maybe. I was thinking of making the grain run perpendicular to the oak handle.
Does this sound like a good or bad idea? If I could make straight cuts, I might go for 9 pieces and glue those together. Right now, I am using either a hammer with a plastic head or sometimes this oak board/mallet that came with one set of chisels, but neither feel that great.
Can any of you anons post your mallets?
>pic related

>>1631716
Steel wool, wire brush, the usual. Bacon grease would work just fine, it is lard, just take your jar of bacon grease and pour it into a pot of water, bring it to a boil and pour it through a fine sieve to get any chunks of food out. Stick that in the fridge and in a few hours you will have a hunk of lard floating on the top of the water. You can throw any hunks of fat you have sitting about in the pot, just boil till liquid.

I am assuming the boil will remove any salt as well, salt is corrosive so you do not want to slather that onto your plane, but I think the salt would end up in the water and not the fat, long time since high school chem.

>>1632006
Glued up mallets tend not to last long, nor do fir mallets. Getting wood large enough for a mallet is not hard, just go find a tree service truck cutting down a tree of good hard wood and tell them what you are doing and ask if they can hook you up with a hunk of limb about a foot long and 6" in diameter. Dig through the cutoffs bin at the home centers/lumber yards. Buy a hunk of something off ebay or the like. Mallet sized hunks of hardwood are not hard to get or expensive if you just make your only requirements dense and stable.

>>1632055
Would it be acceptable to do two parts, one head and one handle in hardwood, or do you recommend making the whole thing in one piece? I don't have access to a lathe so it would be quite challenging (I think).

>>1632074
Nothing wrong with separate handle and head. Generally you would taper the eye of the head like and axe head so you can just drive it on and call it good, glue and wood are not the best for endless repeated impacts.

Making things round by hand is not that hard, knock the corners off with a plane to turn that square into a hexagon, repeat that to make those 8 sides into 16, then start rounding. No real reason to get things perfectly round, but it is a good exercise to try.

I was looking at woodworking tools that can be made by hand, and I see something called a "winding stick" that looks pretty easy to make. Does a pair of these sticks have any advantages over using levels for the same purpose?

>>1632101
If you have 2 levels then no they don't hold any advantage, besides maybe being lighter/smaller

Is that Chicago Electric jigsaw from Harbor Freight good enough for light hobby work? Is it missing any features I'd be getting from a Makita(other than build quality obviously)?

>>1632101
Winding sticks and levels are different tools with different purposes, winding stick are for making things flat, not level, and they are quite handy when the stock you are working gets big. For example, jointing large and heavy boards, you really do not want to pull a 20' 2x10 of oak out of the vises just to test the fit, pushing that big plane is enough work on its own, so winding sticks it is. Now you just need to plane in a reference point at one end of the board to work off of and you can get the edge straight and true down its full length. Generally winding sticks are made from scrap wood for the job at hand, their size tailored to fit that job and tossed back in the scrap bucket when the job is done. Wood is not a stable material and confirming that a couple 12" sticks are still true is as much work as just grabbing a couple suitable bits from the scraps and making new.

>>1632124
Once you start working at any length, having good sharp square edges on the sticks really helps, the face of your winding stick is in shadow, the top is getting good light, the sharp edge gives you a very well defined razor sharp line between light and shadow, makes life much easier. The bevel or bullnose common on levels gives you a gradation between light and shadow so you end up trying to find and line up blurry lines.

>>1632209
Worked OK for me so far on a few modest jobs.

Guys, I think I am in love with the Tormek sharpener. All the jigs, the different wheels... wow, who thought it could be so easy to sharpen a gouge?
But, the thing is damn expensive. The T4 is over $400 and the heavier duty T8 is over $700. Doesn't this seem really expensive for your average hobbyist woodworker? Plus, each jig is like $100 as well.
I haven't done research into the Chinese knockoff yet. One neat thing you can do is buy the piece that the jigs go on separately and mount it to be used on any ol bench grinder.
Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyScXCyh4Jc

>>1632343
Not really worth the money unless you make your living with it. Gouges are a pain to sharpen but with things like the DMT WAVE and honing cones gouges are quite quick and easy to sharpen. Learning to sharpen freehand and to sharpen before the tool's edge is blunt and beaten will greatly reduce your time spent at the stones and make things almost as quick and easy as the tormek if not as quick since no need to switch guides and line up the tool in the guide.

https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/bench-stones/diamond-wave-and-honing-cones/

>>1632348
That tool is much more affordable and it seems easier to use, too. Right now, I'm just using stones to keep my tools sharp. I tried to use my Work Sharp sharpener on my gouges, but the convex edge it makes seems to me to make it harder for the gouge to actually get in to the wood. Maybe it is due to the single bevel on the gouges, not entirely sure.

>>1632366
Gouges just take some practice, it is a pain to get over that first hurdle but once you get it, it is easy to keep. Took me a weekend of sharpening on a flat stone and digging out a large bowl before I could do it with any reliability. Probably took me an hour just to get my first good and really useful edge, by the end of the weekend I could get quite sharp across the entire bevel with minimal fuss. It made sharpening flat chisels a breeze though, have not touched my honing jig since then, actually, I think I tossed it in the trash awhile ago.

>>1632383
Big question I have with sharpening, how do I flatten things quickly or change bevels, remove chips, etc. expediently? I have no issue getting a mirror edge, it just takes hours and hours. Flattening laminated steel backs of planes and chisels is actually insane. Coarsest I have is a 200 ish grit diamond stone, do I just go and buy an 80 and 120 grit as well? Can do this somewhat more cheaply?

Do you have a recipe for chalk paint? Wanna make my own because chalk paint here is absurdely expensive.
>t. third world shithole dweller

>>1632416
I just use a coarse dmt dia-sharp, no idea how coarse that is, I use a honing oil for backs or heavy material removal, does not take that long. Diamond stones need a good scrubbing every so often, soap and a scrub brush is generally enough. For cleaning up badly damaged edges like when restoring an antique store find I will sometimes pull out a hand cranked grinder to get the rough work done, but generally I just use the diamond stones for everything.

Laminated blades have the tendency to really clog anything but soft stones, the soft metal just builds up on the stone quick even with oil. Last laminated blade I restored took quite some time to do the bevel, had to scrub the stone clean three times, back was not bad, had a high spot but stone kept clean and cutting freely. I use a soft water stone for my sharpening laminated blades generally, but I only have a few of those and they do not see a great deal of use so it is no issue to give the stone a soak just for them when the time comes.

My piece of shit miter saw isn't cutting square. What do?

>>1632468
powered? try realigning the fence

>>1631180
Looks a bit red to be fir. If your house is old enough, its possible that it is chestnut. Used to be very popular building material, until it was nearly used to extinction.

Noob here. I kinda want to make my own table but I don't have any instruments or experience, should I even bother?

>>1632582
you could make a really basic table pretty damn easily, just 4 legs and a top, maybe supports between the legs. you could make it the perfect size for whatever you wanted it for.

Is it worth it to buy something like this to refurbish for yourself to use?

>>1632589
Sure, but for the common sized planes stick to Stanley and Record, they will only cost you a few $ more than the off brand when they are beaten up and rusted like that. With Stanley and Record spare parts are much easier to find if you discover something is broken or missing, you know the quality is good and they are well documented so if you are not sure about something you will be able to find out easily. Many of the the other brands are just as good, and some were even just a Stanley or Record casting and the exact same thing, but the cost savings generally will not be justified until you know more about planes.

Those are the three most common plane sizes of all time, Stanley and Record have produced millions of them over the past century, they are easy to find.

>>1632589
If they are cheap, yes, so long as they are not too badly pitted by rust. They'll need some decent time and patience in restoring them. Looks like the one on the right could be a early 1900s or earlier Stanley.

Why is it that "pre-war" planes are the most sought after? You would think that there has been some technology improvements over the last 60+ years that would make modern planes superior to the vintage planes.

>>1632839

Who the fuck wants to fly in a plane that's 70 years old? You are out of your cotton picking mind.

>>1632839
There really hasnt, powertools began and hand tools havent really advanced in the last couple of decades.

>>1632876
Surely there has been improvements in materials and manufacturing processes?

>>1631207
>which is worthless
much like your tripod

>>1632892
A tiny bit. Like the blades are better, if you will shell out for them. But then you could just get a new steel for your old plane.

It's important that they are heavy and flat. Steel is already good at this. Theres no new allow that would change anything.

Does anyone here ever hit up the second hand stores for wood to practice on? I found this for $5 and want to plane it and carve my own thing on it.
Part of me feels bad though because someone took the time and effort to make this thing and I would be destroying "art".

>>1632954
Also, can anyone tell what kind of wood it is? It is harder than my fingernail.

>>1632913
I see, guess that is why planes aren't made out of aluminum then. I just wish there was something bad ass, like a combo plane that let you choose the angle of the iron or something like that.

>>1632872
They call them DC3's and there are over 1,000 in the air today.

>>1633004
https://woodandshop.com/woodworking-hand-tool-buying-guide-handplanes/2/

They were all invented already.

>>1632956
Some rando Asiatic hardwood, enjoy creating something new

>>1632954
>Part of me feels bad though because someone took the time and effort to make this thing and I would be destroying "art".
nature took a much longer time growing the tree that was cut down and made into that garbage. save the tree from further disrespect by making something worth making out of it.

Fuck.

>>1633038
>w*od

>>1633038
>buying chinaman bits

How much should I spend on a wood plane? I finally gave up on a antique one that I found and tried restoring. Damn thing has a sheet metal frog (rather than cast) and attempting to flatten any surface on it ended in frustration.
I read https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/CoarseMediumFine.pdf and want to get a set of wood planes but the best of the best (which apparently are the only ones worth buying) are like $200 each. Anyone had luck with budget wood planes off Amazon or a smaller, lesser known plane manufacturer? I'm serious about getting into woodworking but I have very few actual tools for shaping wood.

>>1633090
I didn't like harbor frights planes at all. The buck bros they have at home depot is probably okay. I'd expect to have to sharpen it. I'd rather spend $200 on some sharpening setup.

My current religion worships coarse diamond plates and water stones for high grits and a leather strop with polishing compound

>>1633097

Are the home depot ones good then? Flat sole, flat frog, square mouth, etc? I have one of those honing guides and I was able to get my plane blade shaving sharp so I'm not worried about sharpening. but flattening/lapping I don't want to have to do too much of

>>1633102
I dunno. The only brand they had was buck bros. I got their chisels and I have no complaints.

>>1632839
They are only sought after by collectors for the most part, there has not been a significant change in plane making in quite some years. All you really get by buying a modern plane by one of the modern makers is the plane works out of the box and is setup and sharpened, for some the markup is worth it.

>>1632913
Blades being better is debatable, plenty of us still prefer old W1 and O1 to the modern steels. Heavy does not really in anything but large planes, joiners, panel raisers, etc, a big part of this myth arising is due to the increased friction of a polished metal sole, they increased weight to help overcome that.

>>1633004
They made aluminum planes, Stanley had a whole series, a big part of the problem with them is not the weight but the fact that aluminum does not take as well to the abrasion of the wood, especially of dense woods and those with a high mineral content, you end up with aluminum streaks in the wood.

Planes that can change blade angle are at least 100 years old now, these days people like to use bevel up planes and swap blades with different bevel angles to change blade angle, but you lose the chip breaker then which is better at stopping tear out in at least 90% of situations. Changing blade angle is not really that useful, they had it figured out fairly well before the rise of Stanley and the standardization of the 45 degree blade angle, used to be the jack was 45 and the smooth was 50 in the general purpose planes, this get you through 95% of situations, there are still a few makers in Europe sticking to this old standard.

>>1633090
The E. C. Emmerich and Ulmia wooden planes are fantastic, the wedge set version are around $90, but wedge set and wood bodies are not for everyone. E.C. Emmerich also has the Primus line which are wood bodies with mechanical adjustment, but you are back up to $200 and up. Highland Woodworking sells the E.C. Emmerichs and PeckTool sells the Ulmia in the US.

The best way to get good planes for less is just to buy an old beaten up Stanley that someone else has already done the work on, will average $50-100 a plane depending on the model, just need to avoid the collectable models, perhaps cheaper for the smooths and blocks. If you want to go that route just go to supertool.com and join the mailing list, as long as it does not say it is being sold for parts or the like you will get planes that will be able to be restored and no more work than a modern budget plane to get tuned up.

>>1633090
The Harbor Freight plane set with the jack plane is kind of a piece of shit (mine rusted out in the open) and its not the best design, but once the blade is sharp and you figure out how to use it, it works better than expected. Can't speak for the smaller plane in the set because I haven't really used it. I have a small Buck Bros block plane from Home Depot that works well enough with a sharp blade. But both of those small planes are a pain in the ass to set.

>>1630107
what is wwg s opinion on mounting wooden posts directly into concrete? surely you judge it as total savagery?

>>1633183
that is literally how every single fence around here is made. treated lumber wont rot for a very long time.

>>1632437
>buy plaster, white acrylic paint and a tint
>mix them, play with the ratios
>congrats, you have chalk paint
Use spray lacquer.

Other than making firestarters, is there anything that can be made from sawdust or wood shavings/chips?

>>1633437
When I mess stuff up, like when I am carving scales for knife handles or anything else, I spread superglue on my mistake's surface and put sawdust in it. I let it sit for ten minutes, then I do it again and again until I get the mistake fixed. Some sanding later, it gets smooth as hell and it has a very cool appearance.

Just... Don't do it on any part that'll have to withstand weight. It'll shatter. Just for cosmetics.

Does anyone here make a living working wood or is everyone a hobbyist? I've been thinking about looking for work either doing hardwood flooring or making cabinets, mainly to improve my own skills. A couple of places are looking for apprentices for both types of work and I am strongly considering it. Seems like one can make some OK money ($20/hr.) after a few years, probably even more if someone was to specialize in cabinets or something.

>>1633729
Cabinets and flooring are heavily industrialized meaning you’ll have a damn hard time making any money even if you’re self employed with a good client list.

Where do you guys buy your exotics? I can't find a place near me aside from Woodcraft and they're overpriced.

>>1630107
to preface: I know very little about woodworking. I want to build a corner desk, but the catch is that it needs to be able to be disassembled. I have to haul the desk up a flight of stairs with a 90 degree angle in the staircase. The surface will be made of 1"x5.5" planks, and the legs will be 2"x4"s. I'm using old lumber that has been laying around otherwise I'd use 4x4's for the legs, and MDF or something similar for the surface.

I'll post a second picture shortly showing the underneath. My main concern is keeping the multiple parts securely together while ensuring that the desk can be disassembled. I plan on having 3 main parts, which can be seen from the markings on the surface. Let me know what sort of options I would have to keep these secured together. Thanks in advance.

>>1633869
you could check ebay i know the have pen blanks and shit like that on there

>>1633914
I plan on sitting at the 90 degree corner, so I don't want any supports there to hit my knees, but I also want that unsecured part to be sturdy enough for a fair amount of weight to rest on. The legs on the left bother me - they'll be moved inward a few inches to match the legs on the right. I could use the flat 2x4 under the desk to secure the two desk parts, but I'm not certain how to secure the third desk part on the right. Any ideas or criticism?

>>1633917
>>1633914
First thing I'd say is design it in two phases. First would be the frame/carcass. It needs to be it's own stable structure, because its generally a bad idea to make the top take up any of that stress. Second phase would be the top itself. You can go wild with this as it only needs to support downward forces, as the frame handles the rest. Secure from the underside and your done.

Tldr; any good table/desk should be able to lose its top and remain standing just fine.

As for the break down aspect, either use those IKEA cam locks or, if you want it to last, just cross lap everything.

>>1633437
Save sawdust from a project that uses a special wood.
If there is a booboo during the build you can mix the sawdust with some epoxy and fill the gap or hole. Toss it when you are through.

So, I'm a newfag to wood working and am currently undertaking a project with cherry wood. What do you guys do to finish it? I know never to stain cherry and that oil and shellac are preferable. What do you guys think is a better finish for something that will be handled regularly?

>>1634007
You answered self anon , oil or Finish .

Behold, my new knives. Not bad for $30. Can't wait to try them out.

>>1633937
thank you so much for the advice. I appreciate it a great deal. I'll post the end result whenever I get around to it.

>>1634007
It depends on if you want the look of light or dark cherry. Cherry darkens a fair amount with exposure to the sun, so if you want that dark look of old cherry put it in the sun for a few days and rotate as needed to get even exposure, it will darken much quicker before any finish is applied. Then finish with oil and or shellac. If you want the light cherry color is an oil or poly with UV protections and finish promptly, it will still darken over the years but do so much more slowly.

There is nothing wrong with staining cherry or any wood, it depends on the needs of the project, sometimes you have that one board that is lighter than the rest in color or has sap wood, but want to use it for some reason; thrift, grain matching, figured grain, etc, so we use a stain to even them out. Or other times we mix species when designing around the aesthetic of the grain instead of the color but still want uniform color so we stain. It is nice to avoid all staining, but we can not all afford the expense in time or money to hunt down perfectly matched boards and sometimes it is just not even possible.

I like tung oil on cherry, linseed is almost as good and dries abit faster. Thin it with some turps, I generally do a 1:1 ratio but sometimes go to 2:1 oil:turps, 1:1 dries faster but needs more coats to build up.

>>1634029
Nice! Those are going to be a huge step up from your cheapo knife.

>>1634103
Forgot to say, if you live in a house with moderately new windows they likely have UV coatings on them so you can not exploit a sunny window to darken the cherry and will have to resort to moving it outside on the sunny days if you want that look.

>>1632074
As a beginner I recently made the paul sellers one by hand. a round handle isn't that useful for a hammer btw

>>1634122
>a round handle isn't that useful for a hammer btw
Depends on the sort hammer, quite nice on the carvers style hammers with their round head, but even in more standard hammers it is not a huge deal unless you are doing long hours of heavy hitting. I find shape along the length of the handle to play more into utility and comfort that cross sectional shape.

I can imagine that you get this kind of question quite often, but my google searches results were overkills.

What I want to do is to craft some wooden spoons for my cooking and some bird perches for my pet cockatiel.

What equipment should I get (while not caring about the waste)?

Thanks in advance, bros

pic related. me and my pet cocktaiel

>>1633351
>that is literally how every single fence around here is made. treated lumber wont rot for a very long time.

This is wrong on so many ways, the treated lumber means that they just put toxins on it and it will rot with water faster as well if its in concrete

>>1634175
Bigger issue is if you stick the post in the concrete it is hell to replace when it does rot.

>>1634103
I hope so! That hobby knife I have has a really thin blade and I worry it will snap.

>>1634175
>and it will rot with water faster as well if its in concrete

You know nothing

>>1634201
Fucking hell.

>drill biggest bolt I have into rotten remnant.

>attach to farm jack.
>get a chunk out

>just start carving it away with harbor freight Forstner bits.

And like 2 hours later I have a very tiny hole to put my new post in.

Fill with polyurethane foam and insert 4x4.

Not a problem for... 5 more years?

>>1634228
And if you used stand off post bases set in the concrete it would be a 5 minute job and you will get at least a decade instead of 5 years since the wood can actually dry out. assuming you squirt some goo in those screw holes to keep them from wicking water into the posts.

I bought some wood today. I'm just going to practice carving I guess. I'm not sure if I made the right choices for wood. The top piece is a piece of cedar fencing. The middle board is a common board, which I guess means Douglas Fir. The third piece is a piece of oak hobby board. On the right is a piece I found at a second hand store. Not sure what kind of wood it is, but it feels pretty hard. I would like to practice making joints but I don't have the right saw yet.

>>1634171
Here is a video of a very talented man carving a spoon. If you watch it, you will get an idea of the tools you need and the technique to use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krAIHRCx9R0
I'm not sure about the perch, I've mostly seen the type where it is like a small branch that is mounted to the cage with a bolt, washer, and nut. Unless you wanted something very big, I think it would he easy to copy that type.

what tools do I actually need to make cool stuff like furniture? I don't want to make shitty boxes and small worthless shit. Do I need to save up and spend hundreds on a good plane, saw, and chisel set before I can make stuff?

>>1634424
Couple hundred would get you pretty much everything you need and tools that will give a good long service, just need to shop around. I spent a decade happily working with a RazorSaw Ryoba, set four Marples chisels and a used Stanley #5, cost about $100 total. Still have and use all of them even though I have 'better' now. Only thing I would do differently is go with a #4 instead of a #5, the smooth plane is just a better plane if it is your only plane, far more versatile. Add in a square and marking gauge, couple sharpening stones, a knife and a couple hand screws and you can do most everything, you may not be able to do all tasks in the optimum quickest fashion, but you will be able to do it.

>>1633729
I work for a company that makes big timber stuff (decks, carports, gazebos etc) and constructs it
pay is decent but the benefits leave a little to be desired, that changes based on the company tho I'd guess.
the actual woodworking isn't too hard (sanding, routing, length cuts and joins) but lifting 20' 4x12's and 8x8's gets old fast

7/10 would recommend if you don't mind the health hazards of the work and find a good employer

>>1632343
I bought the some of the attachments to use on my cheap belt sander and it works out nice. Not using it for finish sharpening more for rehabilitating flea market chisels and gouges and Frankensteining them into fishtail and skew shapes. If you are just looking to finish sharpen stick with some hand stones.

>>1632956
Looks like nyato or luan, usually a softer type Asian junk wood commonly found in exported products from SEA. Thrift shops can be great for getting small pieces of good wood. I use to buy old upholstered chairs for a few dollars just to get the teak arms and legs.

What kind of interesting outdoor projects can be made with maybe thirty 2' treated 2x4 cutoffs?
Shit is just laying around taking up space, but I dont want to discard them.

>>1634554
large size outdoor jenga set - great for bbqs with kids or drunk adults
fence posts for a short garden fence
small planters like this

Would anyone here build this? It is a carver's lap bench.

>>1630188
pussy ive had bigger cuts on my eyeball

>>1634214
>You know nothing

but I do, think for yoruself, what happens with moist lumber? It rots! Even lumber in water lasts longer that moist lumber, same way steel rusts slower in water than when wet.

>>1634201
>Bigger issue is if you stick the post in the concrete it is hell to replace when it does rot.

yep

>>1634228
>Fill with polyurethane foam and insert 4x4.

AAAAAAAAAJAJAJAJAAJAJAHAHAHAH!!!!! amerifats I dont even...

As if sticking it to rot in concrete isnt dumb enough, you put polyfoam around it to make it last less than 5 years and poison your land. If you need to replace smth every 5 years, you havent build it well in the first place

>>1634766
>same way steel rusts slower in water than when wet.
That's not the same principles. Like at all.
>it's the Croat
Oh that explains the shitpost.

Can anyone post the tips of their chisels, specifically their V tools? I feel like mine isn't V-shaped enough.

>>1634750
Is it just supposed to hold chisels and catch shavings when whittling? Why? Just sit on the porch and whittle away, sweep up when done. A great deal of what makes whittling fun is all you need is a knife and some wood, cheap, portable, accessible, and can be done almost anywhere. I guess that is a no, I would not build or use it.

>>1634783
There are dozens of ways to shape the tip of any chisel and carvers often shape chisels in odd ways. It would probably be better if you posted a picture of your chisel so the more experienced can offer you help instead of others posting theirs so you can wallow in your ignorance.

>>1634766
Couple things.

Concrete posts with metal caps aren't suitable for fences because the post will work lose from the cap and make a wobbly shitty fence. It cant take the sideways load. It's fine if you're building a deck. It's almost entirely downward force.

The bottom of the post should have been set on compact drainage rocks. This would provide drainage, and the pu foam provides superior lateral and pull out force vs concrete

PU foam is inert when cured. This is even legal to use in ground in California

This was a shit salad I already had on my plate. This was an existing fence surrounded by red aerated paving stones
The 4x4 that supported the fence and gate latch rotted away. I didnt want to replace the whole fence so this was an easy repair.

I pulled it out and put a new one in. The concrete was loose around it though, but the PU foam perfectly filled the voids and holds it stiff.

https://youtu.be/ysNxHt3JSGo

It's also easier and quicker to mix than concrete

>>1634797
>>1634778
>>1634766
This is not the place for this bullshit. Go to one of the inch/metric or chipboard threads.

>>1634778
>That's not the same principles. Like at all.

either way, oxygen+water=not good for materials

>>1634797
>Concrete posts with metal caps aren't suitable for fences

this is true, but you can just piledrive wooden bem in compressed ground (at least 1:3), that way it can dry out better trough ground. Posts even big telephone ones mounted that way can last suprisingly long...another method if you want a wooden fence is making reinforced concrete posts and connecting them with wood but they "explode" like all RC does but everything is better than savagly putting wood into concrete.

PU foam is faster but its not good on wood.

>>1634422
thanks, friend. i actually knew what are the basic tools, but i had no idea how to work with them correctly. also, this channel helped me clear the fog of not being a native english speaker that has difficulties translating the stuff into the mother tongue. you're the MVP

>>1630188
You know , that gauntlet exist right?

>>1634816
Cool dude, post one thing you've made. Keep it wood.

>>1634885
A woodworking...gauntlet? Well, OK then...

>>1634787
Here is a pic of my chisel tips. The ones I am most concerned with are the V-shaped chisels. The black set was a gift from my dad a few years ago (very entry level I am sure) and the set on the right is just a cheapo set from Harbor Freight.
I think some of the tips are fucked. I used my Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener freehand and I think some of the tips got messed up because of >>1632366
>pic related

>>1635000
Here are the three V-shaped chisels. Probably a shitty pic.

>>1635003
Ahh, so you mean they do not go to a nice sharp point at the bottom. That is not a huge deal, just a different look with a different strength. With yours if you want a nice sharp bottom to your cut you have to follow up with a second chisel, where if you had the nice sharp bottom and wanted a round bottom you would have to start with a gouge and then flare out the topsides. So you can do the same with either, just different paths.

They do not have enough meat on them to get a nice sharp V ground in, so just use them and learn to exploit the shapes they will allow you to cut. When you get sick of having to follow up the V gouges with a second chisel or knife to get the bottom flat, but a proper V gouge.

Okay y'all, I'm a broke ass retard who knows nothing about carpentry and how to use power tools or where to start. I'm a self taught jeweler and I'm starting to purchase a fuck ton of little tools and I lack an area dedicated to my craft. How difficult would it be to make the bench in the pic and what tools would I need?

>>1635098
>who knows nothing about carpentry
It shows, carpenters make houses not desks, this would be the realm of the cabinet maker.

Not terribly difficult, just a few basic joints needed, any beginning furniture/cabinetry book that covers tool techniques and joinery will give you everything you need to know. I generally recommend Tage Frid's books, you would only need the first book which covers tools and joinery, but the set is full of useful information.

The vice I built recently is such a huge piece of shit. I ended up changing it so I can open and close it with a drill and reinforcing it underneath but it didn't help out a whole lot. I was trying to hold some small pieces of wood so I could plane them, but they kept slipping out of the grip of the vice.
My bench dogs are probably too shitty. None of the 7 I made were cut perfectly across the top. A solution I came up with was to make a 3/4 circle bench dog so there would be a corner to help hold the wood. Of course, these cuts aren't great and I've broke the tops off of a few. They work only slightly better than the half circle version.
If I rebuild this vice completely and go with a dual pipe clamp design, maybe that will help. I have a strange feeling that the second vice will have its own problems.

>>1635098
This bench looks awful. There's no place for your legs. If you don't try to put your legs under, then you need to stretch to reach

>>1633914
>>1633917
it looks like some guy got baked and took a stab at furniture design

>>1631973
>I'm a bit worried that it won't be able to stabilize it properly though due to the uneven sides of the bit.
Have you seen pic related? They'll work with this method.

>>1635143
pipe clamps still concentrate the force into two small areas near the bottom of the jaw, not quite as bad as the bolts, but they are still a light duty design and will not fully solve any of your issues. They will also cost you almost as much as a vise, but you will have two nice pipe clamps after you tear it apart.

If you really want to make the best of the pipe clamp vise and have at it, recess the pipes slightly into the underside of the bench so you can move their force up abit and make the jaw at least 3" thick and run the pipes through it.

>>1635267
Jewelers do not work on top of the bench much, notice the holes in the front for mandrels and the like and the two bits of wood that pull out, the top is mostly for tools and supplies. Every jewelers bench I have seen has had drawers almost to the floor.

>>1634422
>Paul Sellers
>very talented man
Understatement of the decade.

>>1633729
I am a full time installer for a custom cabinet shop. I also build all the face frames and other things like specialty roll outs. I currently make $20 an hour. But that's because I'm employed directly by the shop. If I was an independent sub, licensed and bonded and insured, pay would be 10% of the total job cost. I'm in the southeast, it may be different where you are. I know my old boss made over $200,000 bring home last year installing. You can live pretty well. But you're only as good as your last install.

Not a wood working question but more about finishes, how does one go about making MDF waterproof?

I want to make a concrete molds out of MDF for ornate bonsai pots. This will of course have to be waterproof as MDF deforms when in contact with any kind of moisture. I was thinking about using some outdoor latex primer/paint as a sealer but wanted to know if there are better sealants. I've read about enamel primers/paint but have no experience with it. Boat paint maybe?

>>1635420
>mdf isn't wood

>>1635380
I'm not sure where you are buying your pipe clamps at, but the Made in China special at Harbor Freight is only $10/clamp. I haven't priced the steel pipe yet, but the cheapest vice I've seen was $120. I figure two 2ft pieces of steel pipe will probably cost around $20.

>>1635507
>cheapest vice I've seen was $120
https://www.amazon.com/Pony-27091-9-Inch-7-Inch-Woodworkers/dp/B005HPU3DM
https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Tools-F9WW/dp/B01N8SZMI3
First two I found with now shopping around, just add wood and both will out perform your pipe clamp vise by a long shot.

>>1635420
Why would you try and take something that is not in any way waterproof and make it so instead of just using something that is already waterproof? The amount of money you would save by using MDF over a waterproof material would be lost in the time and effort needed to waterproof MDF.

I bought a wood carver for 3 bucks what can I make with it using wood to make back the money I spent

>>1635532
Well shit, thanks anon. I didn't realize a "real" vice would be so cheap. I'm a slave to Mr. Bezosberg, so I try to avoid shopping on Amazon as much as possible, but sometimes it is unavoidable. Gonna do some shopping around ans just order one, I'm tired of dicking around with this POS.

>>1635544
Ttell me about this waterproof wood that does not absorb moisture.

>>1632954
>>1632956
Here is what the wood looks like after I planed and sanded it. I don't know why anyone would have painted over this wood.

>>1635651
The other side.

>>1635651
>I don't know why anyone would have painted over this wood.
At least twice a year I have haul a 50 gallon can of offcuts like that out to the fire pit, anyone who does any amount of woodworking has more of that sort of stuff than they can deal with. Anything in that can is free for the taking and people take bits and pieces for all kinds of random projects, but it still piles up faster then it goes, it is waste that just takes up space to alot of us, would rather give it away than burn it, but I am not going to store it all in the hopes someone shows up to be creative with it. I remember getting a wood workers offcuts once back when I was starting out, could not believe he was going to burn it all, it was a treasure trove for me back then, but now I get it.

I would lean towards some sort of birch or cherry, hard to say with all that pain in the pores and all.

r8
My first carving that wasn't just shapes or random lines. This took me a few hours to complete, including prep and print time. I really enjoyed carving this, but these damn bands in this douglas fir kept messing me up.
I've only carved in this type of wood so far. Do other woods have the same issue where the lighter colored wood is easy to go through, but the darker bands are really hard?
My plan is to make a bigger version of this, about 6 inches square. I think it would be easier to do a bigger carving. Haven't decided what type of wood to use yet.
The font I used was Times New Roman. Maybe next time I will try bolding the font and seeing if that makes it easier to carve the letters. I read that your cuts should be about twice as deep as the part you are carving is wide.

>>1630373

Try making a bench hook. You can do the side mitered however you prefer.

Also yeah when sharpening your saw be sure to clamp it softly to dial the set back a piece.

>>1630250

You'll hit on a layout when you're doing production. Have a plan for where & how you do finishing that won't fuck up your shop.

What kind of furniture do you make specifically? Where will you keep the lumber? What about the finished pieces?

I'm guessing youre a power tool woodworker. Chris Schwarz suggests that hybrid hand tool power tool types get a good band saw and planer rather than a jointer and table saw. By far the most PITA jobs for hand tools are face planing, resawing, and rip sawing. Jointing and cross cutting by hand is pretty easy and fast. Also a lunchbox planer and bandsaw take up less sq ft in your shop. A very good high capacity bandsaw doesn't take up that much more room than a basic one. A lunchbox planer is fine for low volume work especially since you're using plywood and so don't have to plane that.

It all depends on your workflow and methods. I'd plan stuff so you can move shit around. Because you will.

Also, that bench position is going to make clamping a bitch. Which is kind of the point of having the bench in the first place.

I've been doing a bunch of carving lately
made a set of two of these red flowers out of basswood as corsages / boutonnieres for a dance, made a spoon out of birch the day before yesterday, and one of those classic ball-in-cage thingies out of basswood
Oh and I'm working on a kuksa, will probably make another one / several more after that's finished

Here's a pic of one of the aforementioned flowers

>>1635608
Plywood with a lacquer finish. It's what is actually used for concrete forms etc.

>>1635949
>>1635952
pretty cool anon, can you post the ball-in-cage thingy?

>>1634201

im currently doing this. new jersey soil is full of stones, large rocks, and layers of clay. Im trying to pull out 4x4s that are 2 feet deep and encased in concrete. after trying to dig it out and using levers i settled for breaking the upper layer of concrete and sawing the post below the soil. ill put a new post a few feet over and bury the old one.

>>1630646
It's a workbench. Just work on the bloody thing.

>>1630107
If this will be a recurring /wwg/, don't the general threads usually have a helpful OP post with q&a, pastebin etc? I think you should be in charge of getting it properly laid out. Include references for people wanting to get into woodworking, different joinery techniques, youtube channels, suggested reads, etc.

>>1632006
>The design would be simple.
>>1632074
>I don't have access to a lathe so it would be quite challenging (I think).
No lathe required; rough it in with a chisel and draw knife, finish up with sandpaper.

>>1634422
That video is very nice, thanks anon.

>>1636281
Yup, working on collecting some links and the like for the next thread, just was not going to put in the time until I was confident there actually was enough interest to keep one of these threads alive, can not recall the last time this place had woodwork thread that got the bump limit without devolving into brand warfare or the like. I am still skeptical about the longevity of /wwg/ but I am convinced enough to put in some time and perhaps work on some oc on things like getting started on the cheap since there seems to be some demand for that info here. Suggestions for op content for the next thread are not unwelcome.

>>1635899
Thanks, I agree, a bandsaw and a small planer would do a lot for me.
Everything will need to be rolled out to the carport to use, the bench is only good for small puttering.
I set up benches out in the carport to work.
The lumber stock will be stored elsewhere.

Thank you very much that is very helpful.

>>1634201
Jesus Christ, I helped my dad replace his old fence last year. He forgot that he not only cemented the posts into the ground, but he cemented them down to six fucking feet below ground. For wooden posts!

I think I just saved myself $700.

>>1630319
I have an old 5hp motor on a 1950s craftsmen 10 inch belt drive saw, its loud as fuck.

>>1630558
>length of angle iron
>2 c clamps
Wala a fence.

>>1636404
>six foot deep footing.
Nope.

>>1631629
Use the level on your drill, sober.

>>1631653
>since my father does this kind of stuff
>asks internet autists insead of spending quality time with his father
Anon wtf?

>>1631716
PB Blaster.

>>1633437
Makes a great sex lube.

>>1635420
Fiberglass.

Im looking for a good wood to carve out little ornaments as gifts. What kind of wood would be ideal for this and look good with a varnish on it?

>>1636448
you could try a basswood block easy to carve

>>1636448
Honduran mahogany and black walnut are two of my favorite woods to carve, a little pricey but not a bad price at all when you are just carving small objects, small pieces can be had inexpensively.

Can't forget Spanish cedar! as enjoyable to carve as mahogany but with a smell like no other, a wonderful spicey forest scent when work it with tools.

>>1635884
That is most likely white pine, it gets those hard/soft alternating grain when they grow fast, never encountered it bad enough in fir to affect work, just a slight variation, the pines, especially white get it very bad, the dark grain can be like the densest hardwoods.

That is a pretty good job for working in wood of that sort, once you get to a well carving wood you should do quite well.

>>1636441
He's a busy guy and I'm also not sure he'd be a great teacher. I just want to get to a basic level and then maybe I can help him work and learn stuff from him after that

>>1636448
I just picked these up for $6 at Michaels.

>>1636937
Arrows in Coke bottles, you should make them.

>>1637166
>Arrows in Coke bottles
Wow, thats pretty neat! I'm definitely going to make a few of those, assuming I can find some glass Coke bottles.
Do you know of any other wood puzzles like that? The only other puzzle I know of is the pinball in a cube of wood. I plan on making that one someday soon, too.

>>1637406
you could make this puzzle

>>1637498
Is this loss?

I bought the cheapest vise they had to replace the twin screw vice I made. It arrived today and it looks OK. It doesn't sit flush with the top of the bench.
So I am faced with a dilemma. If I want to use the built-in bench dog, I need the top of the vise flush with the table. To do this, I would need to cut out from the bench all of the wood underneath where the vise pieces would go.
Now, I plan on putting some pieces of wood into the jaws, cut flush with the bench top. But in order for those to sit flush with the front of the bench, I will also need to cut back into the bench top to get the rear jaw to fit flush.
Am I looking at this in the wrong way? I feel like there should be an easy way, but I can't quite figure it out.

>>1637575

>>1637575
Ignore the built in dog, recess the inner jaw far enough in to put an inch or so of wood on it to make it flush with the front and recess the outer jaw to go over the top of you vice and drill holes for wooden bench dogs. It really sucks when you slip and drive a chisel into a metal dog. Harwood would be best for the outer jaw, but a good dense hunk of for or southern yellow is almost as good.

>>1637575
How close does it get if you do picrelated?

>>1637583
Just about flush with the top. Another problem I realized. The jaw I mad before had 2x4 and 1x6 on it so I could use 3/4 inch dowel dogs. If I use the 1 inch thick wood, I will have to figure out something for the bench dogs. I guess I cod use a smaller dowel. My other vise was much longer, about 24 inches, and had 3 dogs.

>>1637580
I thought soft wood would be best for the jaws, but I do have an oak board I could use instead of the douglas fir. Sounds like I'm in for a couple hours of chiseling.

Would this be a good for a beginner wood carver? Or would this be too much/ overpriced? I'd like to work on small to medium stuff.
2 7/8th inch carving knife blade
Double edge whittling knife with 1 1/2 inch blade
Begginers bench knife
Draw knife os 1095 hi carbon tool steel 4 1/2 inch blade Rosewood handle and leather sheath.
$89 USD

I want to make a box thats 16x8x2. What are the best ways to make the joints. I only have access to a trim router and jigway. A dremel as well. The 16x2 and 8x2 were going to be make of oak but I cant get straight cuts in it.

>>1637612
you could do box joints and get a jig if you want so the cuts are straight

>>1637618
I tried box joints but failed miserably. Not entirely sure why.

>>1637622
what about splined mitered corners?

>>1637575
Hog it out with a router so the top is flush with the table like it's supposed to be. It's worth it.

For the front, trim your table in 1/2 red oak or something else nicer than the 2x4 but still cheap, and then you just need a tiny shim to flush it up or carve out a tiny bit from the 2x4.

Or just use another 2x4 and rip it to the right thickness to make the vise flush

>>1637575
Are there no holes trapped in the jaws to screw soft jaws in?

>>1637672
There is, just kind of hard to see.

>>1637701
Oh right. You said it in your op even.

So i would cut out what you need to raise it up flush (aim for just below) the tabletop, then put another 2x4 layer, but make a cut and install the wood around both sides of the vise. Then you could shim or pick the thickness of your jaw insert to bring you just proud of the 2x4.

>>1637592
is it 89 or 47? id buy it if it was less than 50

Anyone have experience with BeaverCraft tools? are they any good? I´m looking for a budget set of carving knives, found this for bout 26 bucks on amazon, think is worth it?

>>1637826
>>1637592
Begone, bot

>>1635098
Not too difficult, you could make almost the entire thing out of plywood, get a few sheets of 3/4" hardwood ply, or pine if you want something a little easier to work with. Minimum you would need a circular saw and a guide to make straight cuts, you might need some 2x2 pine for the legs if you want it to look exactly like that. You would need some thinner plywood for the inner drawers and whatnot, and a jigsaw to cut out curved pieces.

For the joints, if you don't really care about appearance and want a minimum amount of tools you could just use pocket holes, get a Kreg jig kit, and with a power drill you're pretty much set to join all the wood in your image.

I actually have this exact jewelry table (not built by myself) in my attic as my mom used to make jewelry but stopped several years ago and all of her tools and work stuff is now stored away, it's kind of sad.

>>1633914
>>1633917
this guy here. The 1x5's I'll be using for the surface of the desk are kind of rough on the edges and I want to avoid splinters. 1" isn't very thick so I'm hesitant to put it through a planer to smooth things out. Would a palm sander do the trick? Or are there any other methods I could use to prevent the splinters?

>>1635277
I wasn't just baked. I was VERY baked.

Are there any free / easy to use cad design software for designing simple furniture?

My parents have an extensive mineral collection, and I mean VERY extensive. Currently they only have part of the collection displayed in 8 ikea Detolfs, which are really shitty, unstable and made out of metal brackets and particle board. I plan on essentially making 4+ display cabinets that are twice as wide as a single detolf, using the side and front door glass that came with them, and using oak plywood for the back support. For the shelves I'm going to just do some dado joints and get glass cut that will slide into them, and I'll probably do an internal support with some oak just to make sure the glass is completely supported.

I was thinking about building some Curio cabinets using the ikea glass that came with the detolfs, with oak

pic related I made in Freecad, but I literally have no idea what I'm doing and just positioned a bunch of measured pieces that fit around the dimensions of the glass I'll be using, but it's going to have drawers at the bottom, and I plan on routing the inner parts of each window as well to fit the glass, and do some decorative routing on the trim and top piece which I'll probably use oak plywood for, with an oak trim.

I've built many small projects out of wood in the past, but nothing this large before so I really need to be exact in my measurements and whatnot.

>>1634029
are you gonna be doing chip carving?
I have the right one (or at least a very similar pfeil knife), and I really like it

>>1637826
these look rather crappy, tho I never tried them

>>1637989
Yeah mostly chip carving, maybe some whittling. Not really sure what the knife on the right is for, been using the one on the left mostly.

>>1637956
you should check out a program called sketchup, there is a free version and it is actually pretty powerful, lots of good shit built-in to it like 2x4s
as long as everything is proportionate to the irl size and to each other, you can design many things with ease

>>1638234
Thanks man, just spent some time playing around in sketchup and it's pretty rudimentary, at least the free version is, but I can do pretty much everything I was doing in freecad with that. I might consider getting the basic version, kinda expensive but I would like to fully model my plans so I can get an exact idea of what I need to get in terms of lumber per cabinet.

>>1637826
The handles are made as cheaply as possible, no ferrule and a shape designed to as quick to make as possibly, no thought put to comfort. Giving you a scrap of leathers and some polishing compounds is sort of ridiculous, while you can sharpen with just those, it would take a very very long time, a small fine stone would be more useful. I would not expect much out of the blades.

It is meant as an impulse buy and to be cheap enough that people will not care that it is crap. Save your pennies and get something better.

>>1637956
If you are ok with 2d and straight isometric 3d, qcad is great, free and very good. Its 3d is slightly more powerful than just isometric, you can project the 2d into the 3d, but it is more or less an analog of drafting by hand in the pen and paper fashion, projecting 2d into 3d is thrown in as a convenience so you do not have to draft everythingtwice. In the end it is likely the most complete and powerful CAD program available at this time. The commercial version supposedly is more capable in the third dimension but I have never used it, perfectly happy with the free version.

>>1638287
>no ferrule and a shape designed to as quick to make as possibly, no thought put to comfort. Giving you a scrap of leathers and some polishing compounds is sort of ridiculous

I may be drunk, but I am not drunk enough to not be embarrassed by that grammar. I think the general point is clear but I am too drunk to tell, deal with it.

>>1638287
>In the end it is likely the most complete and powerful CAD program available at this time.

complete and powerful and FREE cad program available at this time.

Yeah, I am drunk.

With a leather strop with a rough side and a smooth side plus a green compound and a white compound, how the hell do you use it?

>>1635549
Make a video of you inserting it into your pooper and sell it for $3. I'm sure at least one person would pay $3 for that. No wood involved, unless you enjoyed the experience a little too much.

>>1636439
Fucking Russians lel, even their cats are stupid.

>>1636440
>all drills have levels
nope

>>1635107
>carpenters make houses not desks, this would be the realm of the cabinet maker.
Probably he speaks spanish.

Is there any tool or guide that you guys would recommend for sharpening wood carving knives? This >>1636428 works great for plane irons and chisels, but I don't think there is a way to use it to sharpen a knife. I'm looking for something that can help me achieve the perfect angle.
It seems like there are two main types of this style of guide for sale. One goes on the backside of the knife and the other is a plastic wedge that you attach to your sharpening stones with a rubber band. The former only has a single angle you can use and seems quite large, especially when compared to the small carving knives. The latter seems like you have more control over the angle as you can stack the wedges if needed.
Of course, there are sharpening stations that do this, but I think that I would rather have a small tool.

>>1638510
just practice doing it freehand, you will get the hang of it and if you stick to carving you are eventually going to end up buying some knife that no guides or jigs can work with and will have to learn how to freehand anyways. Save your time and money and just learn now, sharpen, carve, observe how it cuts, if there are dull spots, or spots that just cut exceedingly well and make a note for the next trip to the stones.

This will teach you a great deal about how angle affects cut, help you develop more control and save you time since no jigs to attach and deal with, not to mention guides tend not to play well with short narrow blades with complex shapes like the sort commonly used for carving. The blade control needed to get a good edge goes hand in hand with the blade control required to carve, as you get better with one you will also get better with the other.

Beginner woodworker here

I was going to try my first decent sized project by making a medium sized pantry cabinet for my wife. Would rabbets on the top/sides look good enough for joining? I'm an unga and only ever butt jointed before and want to try something that will actually look respectable. Also never worked with hinges before and I don't want to fuck them up. If anyone has any advice for this sort of project I'd appreciate it

>>1638810
I think rabbets would look fine the only advice I could offer would be to make side everything is completely level before you attach the hinges. you could use shims under the door to get them perfect.

>>1638810
The standard cheap/easy way is a dado set an inch or so from the top/bottom of the sides. This gives considerably more strength but means the top and bottom are recessed. A rabbet with screws/dowels will work for smaller cabinets that do not need to hold much weight.

To really give reasonable answer would take knowing the thickness of your stock, dimensions of the cabinet and an idea of the amount of weight you plan on sticking in it.

>>1638824

I was considering using 1/2in or 3/4in pine plywood to make a 36x18x60in cabinet. It'll be a pantry cabinet, so mostly non-perishable food items. The heaviest shelf would have roughly 20 cans of food on it at any given time, but overall not a considerable amount of weight.

In lieu of a cabinet I was also considering just a taller shelf; we currently use a cheap Walmart shelf, but it's made of plastic and cheap wood that's starting to bend after about a year of use and it's only about 24x12x48 and way too small for the amount of stuff we're trying to put on it

>>1638834
For that size and weight you would probably want to go with the 3/4 and the dados, especially if you are planning on making adjustable shelves, they will help stiffen up things a good deal. There are a good number of books on simple plywood cabinetry, if you are somewhere with a library of any size give a look, bet they will have at least one.

>>1637622
Spacing.

I've attempted diy'ing this method myself a number of times with poor results.
https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/multijoint_system.html

The pin that controls your all of your spacing has to be perfect. If it's off at all, every single one of your cuts will drift out of alignment. With a box, that fouth joint is already more than hard enough.

I finally went with a method similar to this. A cross cut sled / box joint jig adjustable by a threaded rod and handled wheel. It's not as fast as a store bought jig, but it's way more customizable and has tons of accuracy. Every turn of your wheel is 1/16th inch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2qwQqW1d68

>>1638883
>thinking about making my lady a nice trinket box
>she says she hates how dovetailing looks
O-ok...

>>1639061
>O-ok...
The router has made the dovetail ugly, taken all of the elegance out and replaced them with boring equally sized/spaced pins and tails of the same few ratios because that is "strongest." Which is bullshit that ignores important information such as the widths of the boards, the sorts of forces the boards will encounter and the qualities of the wood being used. Hard to beat a router for those times when you have to build a dozen drawers, but for drawer construction it may be best to just do as the French did and use sliding dove tails and have a stronger drawer and full extension thrown in for free.

Visible dove tails should be done by hand so you can have pins that taper to nothing, angles and sizes changing and all those fun things that are either impossible or just silly to do with a router but easy with saw and chisel. Also don't be a dick, seal that end grain before finishing so it does not suck up the finish and end up darker than the rest, if you really want to show off do hand cut full blind dovetails.

I have this chisel set into my guide at the right length for a 25° bevel, but this looks really wrong to me. I haven't use the guide much and I have never done this type of chisel before. The only thing I have used the guide for was a plane iron, and even then the bevel I added was 25° and slightly changed the tip, but only by a degree or so I think. This looks like too much and I feel like I'm going to fuck my chisel.

>>1639303
Nice chisel guy

>>1639303
You are not going to ruin you chisel, you are just going to change the geometry of the cutting edge and make it more useful for some tasks and less useful for others.

This really is my biggest issue with these guides, they have helped propagate the idea that there are these few angles that are the absolute ideal for all situations, which is bullshit. The 25 degree angle is compromise that evolved, it works out to be a decent general purpose angle that is not hard to freehand on the stone, you have enough bevel to register the angle off of. It offers no magical benefits and often only offers detriments, like in the case of the standard bevel down bench planes, they are bedded at 45 degree, you could grind the bevel at 40, have plenty of clearance and have no need for a secondary bevel, but that will not sell honing jigs and truth of it is, doing a 40 degree bevel or the secondary bevel offers little advantage, slightly long edge life in trade for more time at the stones.

There is little I can offer regarding advice here since you offering nothing as to how you want to use this chisel, could be great as a parring chisel but would suck for chopping dovetails, best I can say is ditch the guide, keep the blades angle as is and use it, change it if it causes issues in use.

Do special screws need higher powered drills? I have some screws to fasten 2x4's but this cordless drill can't sink one.

>>1639326
This particular chisel I was just going to use for chopping out a bunch of wood from a laminated bench on the underside and the face. I might end up using it for some of the larger types of joints. The set came with this 1 inch chisel as well as a 3/4 and 1/2. I really only bought them because I didn't have any chisels of this type or size.
The guide has other angles on it, I just read that 25 -30 was good for general chisels. I'm not sude what advantages the various angles have over the others and I'm not sure where or how to learn about it.

>>1639329
>this cordless drill can't sink one.
Use a corded drill. Problem solved.

>>1639329

Impact drivers are way better at driving screws than drills, with the added bonus that the impact action helps keep shitty Phillips heads from torquing out.

>>1639331
That will need a shallower angle than it has, you can do it as is but it will crush wood more than cut and you will be working needlessly hard.

>>1639332
>seven foot pounds of torque
My cordless drill has eight times as much torque, and my impact driver has eighteen times as much. Old drills like that were built to last, but modern drills have them beat on power, torque, ergonomics, safety, and functional utility in general.

>>1639329
An impact driver is the tool for that job. Even a cheapo one is far superior to even a good drill for driving screws. It's one of those things where most people who try it never go back. And since a cordless driver is so convenient, it's often an introductory cordless tool. So keep that in mind if you decide to go that route.

>>1631186

can confirm

>>1639344
You are just going on amps, right? Don't forget gearing. Those old drills spun slow. Huge gearboxes in them but also fast motors. Old-timers used to call them 'wrist breakers' for a reason. They have a threaded hole in the top so you can screw in a piece of pipe to give you additional leverage.

That said, yeah, there have been huge advances in corded drills. These old guys are single speed and often don't have a reverse. Those are the only two real functional differences. Newer ones are lighter, smaller, a little faster, and come in those nice Fisher Price colors but that is little shit. They also don't last as long, break easier, have shittier chucks, and can't be repaired compared to these older ones. If I was out on a jobsite, sure, I would use a modern one but, just being a homeowner, I saved a fuckton of money buying an old B&D half inch over some fancy pants drill. Hell, even corded drills are like $60-$70. Cordless drills are double that before you even have to replace batteries. I paid $10 for mine.

>>1639499
The only times I've had an impact come up short are punching dozens of 3/4" spade bit holes into 2x4s and beams (just have to give it time to cool every so often) or trying to pop off lug nuts.

There are cordless 1/2" impact wrenches for the second job I just mentioned. The normal impacts are great for lags, ledger locks, deck screws, drywall, punching holes in sheet metal. Most of these are throttle controlled enough you can do delicate tasks of a normal driver too.

That old B&D is for lots of big boring. No handheld battery is going to compete with 110v @ 3.5A for very long. Even dewalt's flexvolt is just 15 18650 samsungs.

>>1639329
post ur wrists lol

oh my fuck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dx7BTDsy6K4

>>1639525

>>1639537

Nice work, but a hell of a lot of bother for something that is not that attractive except maybe to another woodworker.

>>1639499
>You are just going on amps, right? Don't forget gearing.
Look at the specs on the side.
>110V
>3.5A
>400RPM
3.5A at 110V is 385W. Rotational power can be calculated by multiplying torque by rotational speed. At 400 RPM, 385W is just under seven foot pounds of torque. That 3/4" drill in your second image may be plenty torquey, but the 1/2" drill in your first is not.

>have shittier chucks
That's just wrong. I have several old drills, including one very similar to that 1/2" drill. The modern keyless chuck on my cordless drill is much better.

>can't be repaired compared to these older ones
They can be repaired, but it's generally not economical to do so. Modern labor prices are much higher, and modern drills are much cheaper than the old ones after taking inflation into account.

>Those are the only two real functional differences.
Power, weight, speed, and ergonomics are all functional differences, anon. Cordless drills often have a light that makes it easier to work in confined spaces. And modern keyless chucks make changing bits much faster and easier, without the need to keep track of a key while working.

>just being a homeowner, I saved a fuckton of money
Personal time may not directly translate to money like on a jobsite, but it has opportunity costs. Time spent drilling, changing bits, or hauling electrical cords around is time that cant be spent with family or friends, reading, or engaging in other hobbies. If you enjoy old-timey drills, they're certainly legitimate tools to use, but productivity matters even if you're not on the clock. And a good-quality modern drill is much more productive for most tasks than an old one.

>>1639514
>No handheld battery is going to compete with 110v @ 3.5A for very long.
At mixing grout, maybe, but most hand drills are for drilling holes in material that is at least partly assembled or too big to fit on a drill press. That means a small duty cycle with a priority on mobility. Batteries work just fine for that.

>>1639537
I can not be impressed by something that took no skill to make, not to mention its just a box joint with wood inlayed into it, no more difficult to make by hand than a normal box joint, just more time consuming. The programmable jig is more impressive than the joints and more deserving of a video than the box, but even than, its a fairly common machine in the high volume production world.

In the end, it is just a joint to look impressive and doubles your points of failure.

>>1638510
>Is there any tool or guide that you guys would recommend for sharpening wood carving knives?
Not sure what a wood carving knife looks like but pic related is good for sharpening standard knives.

>>1639344
>An impact driver is the tool for that job
With a decent battery size. If you buy an entry level cordless drill it will usually come with a 1.2Ah or 1.3Ah battery that just will not supply enough current to drive the tougher jobs home. A good sized battery will usually cost close to the same as the drill itself.

>>1635651
Women have an irrational need to paint over every wooden object that they encounter, I think it must be tied to some long-forgotten evolutionary response. It is almost as powerful as my need to reply to week-old posts.

Just moved and found out that there's a Rocklers about 30 min away. I'm still definitely entry level at woodworking so is it worth it to get some exotic woods to try out and see what I like or just keep using pine/cheap woods until im really skilled? Also, what kind of tools should a beginner absolutely invest the money in and what can I get away with on the cheap?

>>1639633
If you are working with power tools, pine or what ever is cheap will be fine to practice on, if you are working with hand tools go with poplar or aspen to practice on. The common fast grown softwood lumber sucks for hand tool work and the good slow growing stuff is generally more expensive than poplar/aspen which work quite nicely with hand tools.

You go to fancy woods when you have reason to use such woods and you have gotten competent at cutting the joints required with for the project.

>>1639575
>no skill to make
It clearly takes accuracy.

>wood inlayed into it
It's three box joints cut into each corner. There's no inlay.

> it is just a joint to look impressive
well no shit

I guess full blind doves and LVL pencil holders are what's in these days.

>>1639734
>It clearly takes accuracy.
The accuracy is in the machine not the wood worker, as I said, the machine is far more deserving of a video.

>>1639734
>It's three box joints cut into each corner. There's no inlay.
Nah, two and a half if you want to quibble, it is essentially an inlay, but I suppose lamination would be a more apt description.

>>1639734
>I guess full blind doves and LVL pencil holders are what's in these days.
No idea what is in, my point was that the takes no more skill than a regular box joint, full blind dove tails are considerably more difficult to make and any wood worker who has cut both will be far more impressed by a well executed full blind dovetail than a fancy box joint.

>>1630586
This things cost, what $250? I got 3 diamond bench stones, a honing guide and some green polishing compound for less than $200.

Hell getting into the scary sharp stuff is even cheaper if you buy in bulk and then get a good finishing stone or 2, personally I would get either a 1000 and 8000 or a 4000 and green polishing compound.

I started out using the scary sharp method, 300, 600, 1500 grit sandpaper worked good for simple stuff or hogging off tons of material from the shitty plane sole I got from home depot.

My only complaint at all with the diamond bench stones are they aren't super flat, with a straight edge they look flat, but when you get to lapping large or really wide things like the sole of a plane, you notice the plane sticking on one spot more than others from the suction. For small blades it's a non issue, and I only use small blades at the moment, I'll eventually get some proper bench stones I just couldn't throw down $100 a stone and another $200-400 for a lapping plate.

>>1631202
the trees available for logging were older, and tighter grained, back then. The trees had grown up in a natural forest, having to compete with the surrounding trees. Trees nowadays were genetically selected for rapid growth, planted, and grown in managed forest with regular thinning out to maximize growth.

source: 52yo carpenter who remembers what a board looked like 30 years ago; big sister's a forester in Canada.

>>1633729
As someone teaching myself woodworking, how do I know when I've learned enough and my stuff is good enough to sell and how do I value it?
I suppose the easy answer is to post here, which I may do later when I get home.
I'm sort of strapped for money so I've been fantasizing about the idea of making and selling something as a side gig.

>>1639977
Just got to make enough stuff to sell. I recently saw a guy selling full picnic tables on the side of the road. Imagine that but with whatever type of furniture you have made to sell.

>>1630586
I use a sheet of sandpaper on a piece of glass.
Works fine for sharpening my stuff.
I don't do advanced stuff though.
But generally what I've learned about sharpening in general is that machines suck dick an you should practice a bit and diy. I inherited a bunch of different contraptions for sharpening drill bits and now I am just free handing them on a grinding stone.

>>1631490
They can be very useful if you have to remove a lot of martial and I like to use them to turn pallet wood into something more acceptable.
It is hard to get things nice and flat however and if the grain runs in a bad direction it leaves ugly marks.

>>1639909
>My only complaint at all with the diamond bench stones are they aren't super flat
Unless you got a defective set or went with some unknown brand so you could afford 12" stones, you ain't going to get much better as far as flat goes. Your test does not really tell you anything about flatness, too many other variable, slightly better test is to take a plane iron to a stone, get the bevel as good as you can get it and then turn the stone 180 degrees and give a push from the other end and give a look at the bevel. Even that does not take into account wear of the diamonds and condition of the plate and assumes the planes blade is of uniform hardness across the width.

Also clean your stones if you haven't, scrub brush and soap and water until they look like new.

>>1639919
>what a board looked like 30 years ago
They still look like that, only difference is we do not waste the good stuff by burying it in walls, any proper lumber yard will likely have at least some old growth fir, many will have pine as well, just stop shopping at the home centers and builders supply and go to a proper yard.

>>1630188
ouch, glad you made it out of heaven

>>1636441
maybe his father is like pic related

>>1639303
Get a protractor app for your pfone. Use it to set the angle. Remember to reference the app onto your grinding surface.

what finish would be good for a wood axe wood handle?

>>1640259
Just oil it and use it.

>>1639977
this what i made
it's a dice tower like the wyrmwood ones

>>1640283
Looks pretty good but you should spend a little more time on finish work. You did not clean up your glue squeeze out and there are visible saw marks left on the wood. Finish looks like a single coat of a thin oil, so it is going to collect filth in the grain and move a fair amout with changes in humidity. I would expect it to look fairly dirty and likely have a few cracks in a year or two, at least if it was living in my climate. I can not price stuff of this sort, know nothing about the market, but I think you need to take care of those corners you cut before selling.

>>1640283
is the tower also magnetic or is it glued?

>>1640311
thanks, this helps a lot
>>1640320
the tower is all magnets, the dice tray is glue. I bet if I took it apart there would be a bunch more apparent problems. I know a couple of pieces aren't square just because my shooting board is shitty.

>>1640324
does it actually fit in the tray? pretty cool anon, even though i dont think i would like it

I have a gap at the corner of my back yard and I need to cover it with a coated board anchored to concrete. I have no clue when it comes to woodworking materials. What board do I buy at Home Depot that is cheap and can handle being outdoors? I'll be cutting it down to 12" x 48" and painting it so that it doesn't rot, unless you suggest a different finish.

Hey anons, lovely thread ! Say, I made an ugly box for an arcade cab and glued something to the side of it with wood glue (about 5x5cm) but realized a bit late that I would be better off without it. If there any method you'd recommend to remove the glued pieces of wood ? It was done a week ago and sticks really well.

>>1640363
Like a paper veneer? A card scraper

>>1640389
Oh sorry anon, I'm talking about a piece of wood (5x5x1.5cm) I glued to the side. I've read somewhere that using a drill I might be able to do something. I don't have a saw right now, that would have solved the issue nicely.

>>1640357
Can yo post a pic of the hole you want covered?

After about 3 or so hours of sharpening, I finally got my chisel down to the proper angle. I measured it and it is about 27°. But the corners are rounding off and I don't know why. I only went back and forth so I don't understand how or why this is happening. Maybe I'm not quite done sharpening it yet? I was using 80 grit sand paper. I still have to go through on the diamond stones and then the leather strop.

>>1640719
that happened because you are using sandpaper and it wears unevenly. it can happen to a stone too but easier to happen on paper.

>>1640719
It is partially the sand paper, but more so your technique, there is less metal in the middle due to the side bevels so the sand paper is removing more material there on each pass so it wears faster, same thing happens on any stone that wears, especially the softer natural and water stones. You need to use the entire sheet when you sharpen, not just go back and fourth in one spot until it is worn, start at the edge and on each pass move over half a blade width, this will even out the wear.

>>1640979
>there is less metal in the middle
err, that should be, there is MORE metal in the middle.

>>1640979
>>1640989
Good to know. I pretty much ran out of the 80 grit, but I have 150, 180, and 220. I removed a ton of metal from it. I would use my stone, but it is a cheapo stone and needs flattened AGAIN. I think I might get a bench grinder so I can alter the angle on some other chisels without spending hours on it.
>pic related, metal filings from the chisel on a strong magnet

>>1641204
Stones need to be regularly flattened, especially if the user has poor technique, there is nothing you can do about this. Generally the softer/faster wearing the stone the more aggressively it cuts since new fresh grit is always being exposed. If you dump your jig and freehand on the stone you will be able to greatly decrease the time spent to keep the stone flat, you can not use the entire surface of the stone with the honing jig which means you wear the stone unevenly and have to flatten more often. If you are using sandpaper, just buy belt sander belts and cut them up, they are much more robust and you will get considerably more life out of them than most sheet stuffs. With practice and improved technique, you should be able to drastically reduce that 3 hours it took to change the bevel, problem is you just went at it and did not spend that 3 hours figuring out WHY your edge was not straight, or how pressure effects the cutting action or what the wear patterns on the sand paper tell you, you went at it for 3 hours then came here and asked. Turn off the screens and think about what you are doing, you should have gotten much more accomplished in that 3 hours then wearing out a pile of sand paper and a new bevel angle. Everything you needed to answer the question was staring at you for 3 hours.

Personally, I solve 90% of my wood working problems while sharpening, if a project is not going right and I can not figure out why, I will start sharpening tools, if I run out of things to sharpen I will dig into the box of old beaten tools waiting for restoration, answer always comes before I run out hunks of steel to worry away at the stones.

What do you guys think of the Japanese system of Living National Treasure (人間国宝 Ningen Kokuhō)? Should we do something similar to preserve our traditions?

>>1641334
>Ningen Kokuhō
We already do, only difference is we do not bestow titles.

>>1641343
Sounds like we don't have that system then. I think we should, or at least give some sort of recognition to true masters.

>>1640567
I cut down a piece of ply and painted it with exterior latex for now. I was going to smooth out the wall with an air hammer chisel so I can get the board flat against it and attach it with some Tapcon screws. You can see my neighbor kind of tried an even lazier version of what I did.

Not about wood but seems to be the most relevant.

I'm going to move and I want to have an enormous table in my new place.
I want it to cover the entire side of my bedroom so that one wing would be my PC zone (monitors, keyboard, drawing tablet, other shit) and the right wing would be my DIY area with 3d pronters, some hand tools, soldering iron etc.

Ordering a custom made table like that would cost an arm and a leg, obviosly.
But I just got an idea, what I I could make it right there.

>move to the place
>use the floor before any furniture is there
>make a mold out of sheet plastic and hot glue
>get some resin (Epoxy, Polyurethane, Acrylic - you tell me what's better)
>mix part A and part B
>pour in into the mold on the floor
>attach the adjustible legs
>and enjoy

The problem is i never did anything like it before.
What should I know? What resin to pick for a diy bench at which i could be soldering or cutting something?
How to achieve an OK finish?
Is this even a good idea?

>>1641401
>receive a medal for the best carved wood
join a club or competition if you want recognition

>>1641776
in a case like this i would probably cut the stones to the right size to make a good fit with bricks instead of using wood

>>1641859
ive seen people use 2-part epoxy as a sort of finish for the top of their table but not actually the table top like you are thinking. it is probably pretty spendy to get enough epoxy to pour a huge gable top like that. plus, there will be lots of bubbles in the epoxy and it will look like shit. I would build the table out of wood and then maybe putt a small frame over the top and fill that in with epoxy if i was determined to use epoxy.

>>1641868
I am under impression ordering somebody to make such top for me will cost a lot more than to make it entirely our of resin.

I'm thinking about the polyurethane floor material.

>>1641871
yeah i think it would be quite expensive. why exactly do you want the plastic top?

>>1641871
You can get doors for free/cheap on craigslist often. They make decent table tops.

Epoxy would be expensive as fuck. You might be able to do concrete with a bunch of 2x4s

>>1641871
Are you going to cast a humming bird in it as well?

Floor poly needs air to dry, once the outside dries the inside does not get the air it needs to dry. Resins would work but will have shit strength, generally you would make a laminate, fiberglass, kevlar or even canvas would be embedded into it and make up the bulk of the thickness and provide strength.

If you actually are not trolling just use plywood and poly it.

And we hit the bump limit for a second time, after work I will make a new general complete with informative OP.

>>1641938
...

>>1642383
...?

New thread >>1642232

>>1641938
good, this was nice.

Thanks