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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 87 KB, 552x377, 1518054410787.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792697 No.2792697 [Reply] [Original]

I'm interested in learning mechanics and shit and working on cars. I've heard working on lawnmower engines is a good place to start. But I really don't know what I'm doing.
What am I supposed to do, take an old lawnmower off the side of the road and fiddle around with it until I've pulled it apart? Then what?
I'm guessing I'd want to try and fix broken ones. Anyway as I say I've got no idea what I'm doing and no idea where to start. Is there some guide out there that can hold my hand and tell me what to do?

>> No.2792700
File: 297 KB, 1280x960, D093FBA4-7FD9-4FC0-98C8-1CE4A80C9F94.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792700

>>2792697
It’s all “Fuel, Air, Spark”. Start with that theory.

>> No.2792701

>>2792700
I... don't follow

>> No.2792703
File: 345 KB, 960x1280, E8C689A0-D732-4122-B7EE-2C95FF1E6A47.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792703

>>2792701
With any small engine, you just need to diagnose those 3 things, air, fuel, and spark.

Air is super easy, make sure the air filter isn’t clogged and there’s nothing jammed in there.

Spark, you can hold the spark plug against the block and pull the cord and see if it sparks. Or get an inline spark plug tester. If no spark, it’s either bad spark plug/wire, or the ignition coil, or whatever type of cutoff switch a small engine may have which cuts the ignition.

Fuel, try to start it on starter fluid. If she runs on starter fluid, you have a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel lines, clean or rebuild or replace the carb.

It’s pretty much the same with cars except each one of those “Air, Fuel, Spark” systems has many extra parts and parameters that need to be met for it to work properly, like you have security interlocks before you get spark and electric fuel pumps and injectors. Find which system has the issue, and work through that system to find the culprit.



File: 178 KB, 2000x1600, il_fullxfull.2197112476_2snk[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792694 No.2792694 [Reply] [Original]

I'm a bit of a fag and would like to create my very own kintsugi necklace.
The plan is to buy a few cheap ceramic/porcelain pendants, broke them and repair them using cheap chinkshit sets from amazon
Has anyone tried it? Is it possible to do something decent with it?



File: 191 KB, 874x1766, screw that.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792653 No.2792653 [Reply] [Original]

The previous owner of this house apparently either did not know shit or hired people who did not know shit to do shit in his house.

>Install 1/2" cement backer board in shower surround and on the floor with 1" drywall screws
>No sealing the corners of the surround backer
>Self-installed the shittiest vinyl sliding window without tempered glass in the alcove using common nails for the flashing (rust streaks on the siding now)
>Zero attention to blocking water ingress around the window inside (there is a window by the tub alcove) - no caulk anywhere
>Zero attention to blocking water ingress around the mixer valves or tub spout rough-ins - no caulk anywhere
>No caulk around the grab handle mounting
>Did not extend the toilet flange to account for the tile and instead used two wax rings
>For some stupid reason took out the crippling under the bath wall (sits on a bearing wall) and so of course the resulting water damage for all their other stupid shit made all the floorboards warp away from the unsupported wall above and the wall itself sagged in the middle.

It's that last one that got my panties in a real bunch.

Then like the good white folk they were they boxed it all in with drywall and fucked off for a couple of decades before having the cast-iron American Standard tub spray finished and then selling their shit-dripping, wall-weeping, 10-inch-fucking-stub-outs-sticking-out-of-the-wall mess off to me instead of investing the money in fixing it.

The tiling floor/walls was fair and held up until the rusty heads on the drywall screws started to pop tiles in the shower around the tub.

Pic related is my phase 1 ghetto repair. Measured at the studs I went from 5/8" at the worst part of the dip to 3/16", a 1/2" dip is under 1/8", and 1/4" gaps are all gone now. I can now sheathe my floor in peace knowing that I have in some small way helped make the world a better place.

Thank you for reading my blog post. You can now return to your regularly scheduled fapping.

>> No.2792668

>>2792653
> on behalf of white people everywhere I apologize.

Did you know that the white is a made-up phenomena? People are Hungarian or Irish or polish etc. - there's no white. So you have to be more specific about the nationality, so we can make fun of them better.

As for your repairs, please illuminate us, on how you did not have it properly inspected, before purchasing the property. if you purchased it properly, acquiring the property by paying the unpaid property taxes, instead of waiting for it to go retail and list like any other maroon, then if this is the only problem, I'd say you have it made.

>> No.2792675
File: 1.66 MB, 2373x1788, iwillpoophere.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792675

>>2792668
Generic whitefolk. I don't care where their ancestors fornicated.

The damage was concealed behind poorly installed drywall. The dip in the floor is (was) behind and under the vanity, the inspector could not have seen it. The cement board that was on the floor seems to have bridged the valley for the tile, so to speak.

In general the house was patched up convincingly enough on the surface. We did see the extra height and knew they had layered a second floor on, not uncommon and we had planned to remodel the bath (and kitchen) in any case.

The kitchen is next with similar layering of floor in there but we can see the joists for that from the utility room and we know it's not messed up like the bathroom wall. The tile job in the kitchen is absolute shit. I hate pulling up cement backer, with any luck it will also have the too-short screws which made it a little easier.

Fortunately it's a bog standard 1970s vintage house so setting up a nicer than rental spec bathroom doesn't take all that much.



File: 69 KB, 1200x1200, 62671_W3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792612 No.2792612 [Reply] [Original]

I wanna make a fly-weight enclosed multi-purp trailer, but still keep it foldable, and thus easy to store, with semi-removable structure, based on Harbor Freight.

But I want it bigger than 4x8, and to keep it fold-able pretty much limits plywood floor to 5/8", if that, more like 1/2".

Plan to make it about 6'6" wide, with extra steel frames under main frame about same as tongue frame to support the 1'3" over-hangs, and so the wheels would be sorta enclosed (but seems like could still be got to, maybe with a socket). I'd probably add extra steel with self tappers, then when its all figured out and plywood and test folded, etc, take it a welder to glue up everything, including the "factory" framing for extra strength.

Also might extend the back about 1' or little more, because WTF not. Maybe make a big full size rear door also a loading ramp, but it looks like the whole trailer could tip when Tongue Pins are pulled, but probably lot nicer to load with ramp into otherwise level trailer. Going for maybe 6'4" standing headroom, so Ramp would be 6'4".

Might have vertical rear 'streamlined' clam-shell doors AFTER the rear main-hatch/ramp, that would swing forward and attach to sides of trailer when parked and open, mostly for light high bulk storage like sleeping bags and hanging clothes.
Might have a mode where rear-ramp can be supported from its rear-hatch frame by chain and serve as Patio, or have rear ramp horizontal and swing clam-shell storage space over it, for one big internal space.

Not sure about the front, but semi-streamlined starting at front main-frame steel, maybe with small side door.

>> No.2792613

Yes, lots of volume for a very minimal trailer, and not for heavy duty use. Maybe this shit for main body walls and roof, with PVC pipe or other dis-mountable frames. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-12-ft-Corrugated-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-in-White-101892/100041353
Doesn't need to be 110% water tight when being towed, but should be mostly rain tight and fairly dust tight when parked for extended period.

Primary uses would be:
1)Storage Unit I can legally park on the street when attached to one of my other motor-vehicle beater "storage on the street" units (neighbors luv me!, no really, LOL, I'm that guy who can move couches for them or pick up bikes from shop, etc).
2)Small construction site/security office.
3)Camping and SHTF emergency housing.

Thots, opinions and recommendations?

>> No.2792660
File: 53 KB, 621x414, Tiger King Pose 1200.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792660

>>2792612
buy a bigger trailer



File: 279 KB, 1280x960, WS2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792596 No.2792596 [Reply] [Original]

>permanently lubricates any metal or plastic
>lower friction dry than oil on uncoated metal
>improves any oil or grease used with it as it wears
>used by NASA on space shit
>industry standard coating procedure is just sandblast the part then blast the WS2 on at 120psi
Is there anything special about media blasting with half micron particles or will a $100 blasting cabinet do it well enough? I haven't been able to find much about doing this at home, let alone on a poorfag budget. If it's as simple as it sounds, you should be able to coat every moving piece of metal you own for a few hundred bucks. It'd be an excellent application for household stuff like locks, hinges, and tools, and even better for lawnmower, motorcycle, car, etc. engines.
Is there something I'm missing here or is this one of the most based materials ever?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792614

>>2792608
>twice the load bearing capability of oil
>half the friction of oil
>chemically inert
>works at any temperature
>half micron coating thickness won't affect any tolerances or clearances
The Standard for application calls for a check for adhesion by wiping off any excess and putting on and pulling off a piece of tape. That gives me a little more confidence in trying a cheap setup so I'm probably gonna give it a try anyway.

>> No.2792630

>>2792596
I've never used or applied it but I do have a lot of media blasting experience and between that and reading up on it I can say that the size of the particles will be a significant issue using generic media blasting equipment, as will the need for scrupulous cleanliness of both the work and the blast media. Regular media blasting is not a clean process.

Even shooting media in the 220 grit range creates issues with clumping and even dispersion, and even the tiniest bit of moisture in the air makes this exponentially worse...microscopically fine powders would require lab grade drying equipment at a minimum and I doubt they are using typical nozzles and delivery.

Also you need to separate any base material displaced by the process from the recovered media as you go, which is less and less simple as your particle sizes get smaller...and unlike typical sandblasting you can't have any stray crap in your blast stream since it's a lubricant application rather than just a textural process. So crazy filtration/separation requirements.

Add in the fact that at least some of the descriptions use a two step blasting process; one to open up the surface at a microscopic level with a similarly fine media and another to impinge the lubricant powder into that microscopically textured surface...and both materials need to be kept 100% separate with scrupulous cleaning after step 1.

FWIW I found a site describing a process using a tumbler and impact media as a sort of ball mill to hammer the powder into the surface of bullets...note the detailed cleaning prep process and need to keep the media clean...also consider that the lube needs of a projectile and something like an engine bearing are vastly different.

https://www.bulletcoatings.com/guide-applying-tungsten-disulfide-bullets/

>> No.2792646

>>2792630
Also you need to consider consistent air flow and not just PSI when sizing equipment; 120 psi doesn't sound like much but to keep that pressure up with an open nozzle requires flowing LOTS of air which is measured in cubic feet per minute, and the demands increase exponentially as the nozzle size increases-

"Working at 100 PSI, the recommended compressor sizes are:

#2 1/8-inch nozzle: 20 CFM
#3 3/16-inch nozzle: 45 CFM
#4 1/4-inch nozzle: 81 CFM
#5 5/16-inch nozzle: 137 CFM
#6 3/8-inch nozzle: 196 CFM
#7 7/16-inch nozzle: 254 CFM
#8 1/2-inch nozzle: 338 CFM

This one will run a 1/4" nozzle-
>88 CFM@ 125 psi
>$16,308.75
>(You save $9,785.25 )
https://www.compressorpros.com/industrial-gold-r203enc6-cdr-20-hp-208-230-three-phase-rotary-screw-air-compressor-with-dryer/

Want a 1/2" pattern?

https://www.compressorpros.com/201-300-cfm/

>> No.2792682

>>2792630
>>2792646
the chad knower crushes dreams and puss with equal enthusiasm

>> No.2792702

>>2792596
Probably not more widely used due to the hazards of handling it.

Wikipedia also states that it breaks down in contact with air together with water leaving behind Sulfuric Acid and Tungsten Oxides.

Also Tungsten is a heavy metal and as such probably very toxic. It is simply not worth it.

Capacity to become like one of these forever chemicals nature can not break down?



File: 4 KB, 90x90, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792534 No.2792534 [Reply] [Original]

Is harbour freight like princess auto?

>> No.2792607

>>2792534
Yes, but with more stuff.
t. leaf in US

>> No.2792609

>>2792534
I power fisted your mom.



File: 76 KB, 600x600, 38095.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792502 No.2792502 [Reply] [Original]

Why are quill stems and underappreciated diy item? They can be used to build all sorts of things yet nobody ever talks about this

>> No.2792505

>>2792502
>They can be used to build all sorts of things
Such as?

>> No.2792506

>>2792505
Anything that requires two metal tubes to be joined at 90 degree angle

>> No.2792507

can i make one myself? why shouldn't i just weld my metal tubes together at a 90 degree angle?

>> No.2792631

>>2792502
https://www.amazon.com/Azarxis-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Bicycle/dp/B08F7FZQ8B/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xicTUhYiLsnVsQzLWGy4we6xhj_FpgD5zb9jNFDl9tyQwrDI7u0_BhegMgjOKoJG2Bgunnp60dY-rcSjFl20Nz3Axwt_UYtS6orYbk6zsK7GTfRP5Nyq2l06iy-hg9Hs63IIkiLEEG8eA1_lDljiwXSI_8tKh_K9k490_VFEEgIDOHCHf02fXSQ1mPX36GQLyrFbT72aEQrTsRyQelIt8mK-wHd2GVA_ARo4jmHz5FdxUo7vymAI8aRFBXVUz4MU8BqVyLtDATFP-FSKrMvmArEp3ENsTY2dpk23OcFKMjM.qeODLz615_WFtsqQ_46y_soSxI7MzYzJ0wl1bMa5m4M&dib_tag=se&keywords=adjustable%2Bbike%2Bstem&qid=1714278012&sr=8-15&th=1

>> No.2792663
File: 237 KB, 859x896, 1241084694445.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792663

>>2792631
wow thanks for the link



File: 1.60 MB, 2040x1536, tractor1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792481 No.2792481 [Reply] [Original]

I'm buying a new tractor, it gets delivered next week. Kioti CX2510 with the FEL, 3" spacers, weighted rear fill and a 5 spine box blade. pretty excited, can finally fix my gravel driveway

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792603

Just don't ride with your foot on the clutch, you'll burn it out in a few hours of runtime

>> No.2792604

I bought an 830 case-o-matic diesel today...

>> No.2792624

>>2792604
those are a good looking tractor with full rear fenders and fat rubber all the way around

>> No.2792625
File: 1.02 MB, 2040x1536, kubota.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792625

>>2792599
Out the door I think 21k with tax, full rimguard, and spacers? Extra 1400 for the 60" box blade. I had a Kubota BX2380 I was trading in but I only got 11k trade-in for it but what can you do. That tractor simply wasnt doing the job and I couldn't go another winter with it. I thought about spending the extra 5-6k or so and jumping up to the CK26 but I just think that might be too big of a tractor for my application. Hoping I dont regret that decision and have to trade the CX in later... The Kubota is in this pic, it had reached the tipping point just on this extremely slight angle trying to plow my driveway. Barely angled and the front tire spun a bit of snow and boom, the whole thing was unstable. I could push it over with my hand. New one should be much better and heavier. Its got almost another 1500 lbs of weight on the Kubota, and thats without the filled rear tires.

>>2792603
I've driven manual cars all my life, but also this one is HST which is dope. You only clutch to start the engine and engage the PTO, otherwise you never touch it. You can even change range without clutching

>> No.2792655
File: 103 KB, 1200x1194, 654d56d69bfd7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792655

>>2792481
what is your plan if rear wheel bearing gets worn out? can you pick up a 500 lb wheel by yourself



File: 258 KB, 1080x1898, ox.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792465 No.2792465 [Reply] [Original]

Where do you buy tposts?
Is this actually how much they cost? I would have expected about half that

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792532

Jesus. Last time I bought new ones they were around $7 each if I remember right. Damn glad I have a surplus of them and every time I tear out an old fence i can salvage about 98% of them for re-use.

>> No.2792542
File: 89 KB, 936x843, Screenshot.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792542

>>2792465
did you even bother looking around

>> No.2792547

>>2792542
Im leaf but it might be worth a trip

>> No.2792563
File: 59 KB, 1029x514, tposts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792563

>>2792542
Yeah they're $5 apiece at Crackwhore Supply

>> No.2792636 [DELETED] 
File: 132 KB, 1344x699, 1714280739099.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792636

>>2792465
>I would have expected about half that
how about 1/3rd



File: 122 KB, 379x219, Screenshot_2024-04-27_17-30-30.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792461 No.2792461 [Reply] [Original]

I'm working on a personal project that isn't a normal repair or assembly, and I need to go to the store and ask for help. What I need to know before I go to the store is what is the difference between a pipe and a duct and a hose. I have social anziety so I have to be prepared with a little speech that will work in the store. If I ask wrong and he just stares at me I really start to fall apart.

Pic relates is not the part I need btw.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792466

>>2792463
thanks for the detailed breakdown. I'll probably be ok, but if I run into trouble I can't imagine reciting all that to a perfect stragner. Maybe I'll reconsider the personal project and look around for one that doesn't involve a deep knowledge of technical matter.

>> No.2792468

>>2792461
don't worry, the part time, minimum wage kid or mexican working at lowes won't have a clue even if you know exactly what you're looking for

>> No.2792496

>>2792468
yeah this is the truth. the worker will point him to something pretty much unrelated and op wont be able to get out the poor suggestion and will buy it to then drive to a different store with a different layout completely unprepared and the situation will be 100 times worse. good luck op you shouldnt have gotten out of your pod

>> No.2792509

>>2792461
find an independent hvac contractor shop and swing by on a friday afternoon (kill the clock time) and hopefully they'll have the roll up door on the shop open. introduce yourself as a fucking idiot trying to figure shit out and you'll probably get a good 5 minute course on the subject. have a sketch of what you want to do and be open to suggestions. the cost of this primer will be the shop rats will have a good laugh at your expense after you leave

>> No.2792528

>>2792461
you can just ask here you aspie



File: 751 KB, 2356x1325, compressor head 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792454 No.2792454 [Reply] [Original]

Posted a week or two ago about getting some broken snap rings out, finally found the time to fuck with it again. One side popped right out with a pick, other side refuses to come out at best it just spins in the groove. Any ideas?

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792490

>>2792485
then why did you say "at best it just spins". find someone who has held a wrench to learn you some skills

>> No.2792510

>>2792490
How about you put down the wrench and learn some reading comprehension.

>> No.2792513

Imagine faking manhood being this inept

>> No.2792548

Take straight pin push in groove under broken clip
Push clip from other side …bingo
Go away

>> No.2792550

>>2792548
Doesn't work you absolute shit for brain.



File: 236 KB, 1125x1500, 1624771272539.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792436 No.2792436 [Reply] [Original]

What would you do to your house if money was no object?

>> No.2792441

If that pic is inside your house I'd say you've already maxed out the potential and can spend all that spare cash on sex, drugs, and rock and roll.

>> No.2792474

>>2792436
buy neighbors house and demolish it and turn that property into a gigantic fenced off back yard and get a big hot tub and make a small skatepark and learn how to shred a half pipe. and put a slide from my bedroom window into the backyard.

>> No.2792674

>>2792436
tear it down, including the foundation, and build a house that has a floor level with the ground.
who the fuck thought raised ranch sounded like a good idea?

>> No.2792695

>better bathroom and kitchen ventilation
>turn bathroom into vintage style wetroom while preserving the original fixtures
>all new floors
>dew proof metal roof
>solar array
>perimeter fencing
>side deck from the sunroom
>2nd basement bathroom
>buy as much neighboring property as possible



File: 121 KB, 1024x1000, 1712099454465650.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792414 No.2792414 [Reply] [Original]

Anyone here have experience with steam cleaners?
Ideally I want something that can do carpet and floor maybe the car .. a lot of the floor ones say they can do area rugs so does that mean they can.do carpet too?
Companty thst starts with bis and ends with sel seems to own the market on these but idk if theyre any good they seem kind of too cheap to be true
I dont know how to make this post seem less like spam

>> No.2792423

I have a handheld one that's just for spot cleaning, can use it on anything, carpet, upholstery, clothing. It might ruin some delicate fabrics but cotton does fine.

>> No.2792457

>>2792423
Same as this anon, a green one. It’s okay. It’s gotten pretty gross over the years but it keeps my fabrics pretty clean as long as I use it quickly after the stain occurs. For stuff that’s set in it helps but I think you need something more powerful and/or to accept the limitations of reality?



File: 765 KB, 1456x1942, kcDzlPq.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792407 No.2792407 [Reply] [Original]

Is this OK?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792538

The ceiling sperm is watching you...

>> No.2792575

>>2792407
Poke it with a needle and find out

>> No.2792576

Water storage for a hot day

>> No.2792632

>>2792407
electric power from lights is pulling the water to it. :)

>> No.2792634

>>2792632
They're needing more 'juice'



File: 2.20 MB, 3024x3024, IMG_5737.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792406 No.2792406 [Reply] [Original]

I know this is an incredibly dumb question, but I’m trying to figure out the actual name of this wooden barrier placed on the outside of new construction so I can figure out how best to remove it. This is placed on the exterior of my new home’s backdoor and, now that I’m adding some stairs to the yard, I’m trying to figure out how best to remove it without annihilating my trim. Sadly, ‘wooden barricade exterior new construction’ isn’t the most targeted search term on Youtube.

Thanks for any help!

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792426

It's pointless the only solution is to burn the whole thing to the ground and build a new one.
OP is just in denial about reality.

>> No.2792428

>>2792406
No Jerome. You can't go in.

>> No.2792439

bait bait bait fucking bait. they put those things up during construction for safetl/liability but they have to remove them and put proper steps or deck before it can be sold.

>> No.2792443

>>2792406
If need help to remove this you do not need to he installing stairs. If you are having someone install stairs for you they will take it off.

>> No.2792450

It is a dont sue me because your dumbass face planted out the back door



File: 69 KB, 1200x1200, 511ucq6UzkL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792396 No.2792396 [Reply] [Original]

how worried should i bee with this anodized garden hose connection being connected to brass, and why the aluminum work like an anode?

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792472

>>2792429
plastic to metal is horrible bro if you use similar metal connection you can cross thread plastic to metal is worse.

I just don't wanna fuck up my eley reel cause of some shitty anodized aluminum connection.

>> No.2792478

>>2792437
>>2792471
>electrical insulation a primary concern on a fucking garden hose
The Nigga Whats are off the scale, Doc.

>>2792472
If you're super duper cereal concerned about galvanic corrosion at the connectors then don't mix metals. Steel to steel, brass to brass, aluminum to aluminum, plastic yeeted directly into the nearest dumpster where it belongs, etc.

>> No.2792489
File: 2.12 MB, 498x392, bane-fire-rises.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792489

>>2792478
Yes this a high IQ thread discussing electrochemical effect and currents that happen from two dissimilar metals and charge balances.

>> No.2792495

>>2792471
>worrying about fresh water conductivity
Get a life, breh.

>> No.2792504

>>2792396

I avoid them like the plague. Galvanic corrosion is a bitch, and the fitting WILL be (possibly permanently) seized if you leave it attached. Unless your hose bibbs are also aluminum (in which case lol), it's absolutely worth looking for brass connections specifically.

Even plastic is better. Not great, but at least you won't have to get the angle grinder out to remove the hose once you need to change it. Already had to do that twice. Even the thickest anodization won't save you. It WILL scratch (a significant portion of outdoor dust is made of alumina, so the hardness of the anodized layer doesn't matter), and, once that happens, corrosion of the rest of the fitting follows fairly quickly.



File: 221 KB, 881x642, Ultra-Lok-II1-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2792362 No.2792362 [Reply] [Original]

I want to collect as many different screwdriver bits as possible to spite anti-right-to-repair manufacturers

Is there anyone doing good compilation work? A private collection, a museum?

I've only found standards for hex drivers yet

Pic related

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792385

>>2792379
Ok, yeah, I did think so, drill bit and spanner bit for recessed heads, dremel for accessible heads

But what if you have, say, an M1.0 screw, in a recess? You'd be fucked

That and the manufacturer does not deserve my transparency

>> No.2792388

>>2792381
Use the one with holes in it for those Allen sizes

The security hex and security Torx will also take off hex and Torx without the security nub

I use my ifixit kit to modify snap-on dual 80 series ratchets

>> No.2792395

>>2792366
>>2792376
>>2792379
>>2792389

Allow me to clarify: I want to aggressively go to the limits of the law, to solve problems I have not yet come across, to spite all manufacturers, including those I've never heard of.

I want all the data on all the screwdrives, especially those used on consumer products, such as the ones in the image, which is used in Toyota electric car batteries iirc

>> No.2792401

>>2792395
Look up patents. There will/might be scale drawings in there.

Also there is no "law" to prevent you from owning any type of tool for these. If you want to really become all capable invent a self stopping milling bit capable of eating itself into any fastener head till it stalls to then be used to unthread the fastener and throw it away.

>> No.2792431

Buy the bit you need when you need it.
Then you never have extra shit you don't need, but you have everything you've needed at least once.

That's my tool philosophy.



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2792349 No.2792349 [Reply] [Original]

So I've been replacing all my outdoor frost freeze spigots and I've come to my hot/cold and need some ideas/advice

They are connected to pex that goes underground and runs to my outdoor kitchen. I'd like to redo this in a way that doesn't look so fucking rigged.

Ideally I'd like an outdoor mixing faucet or something, lines going to the outdoor kitchen that can be turned off for freeze (like it is currently) but in a way where I don't have to unhook everything switch between using it as a spigot and feeding the outdoor kitchen.

Any ideas/products that would accomplish this would be greatly appreciated. Preferably without an insane amount of renovations

>> No.2792399

>>2792349
you know you can't expose pex to the outdoor sun right? why do you even need hot to your door kitchen to come from your house? just buy one those cheap camp boilers for hot water and connect a small tank just ensure your water lin is below frost line.



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2792307 No.2792307 [Reply] [Original]

Degreelet here and no I am not going to post in the SQTDLGBTQ because fuck jannies and I'm not gay.
I want to chop this tree down. My plan is to rent a chainsaw and start with cutting the limbs down away from the house at the top and work my way down.
Is this an actual a good approach? It's not particularly high but at it's highest it's definitely a long 25ft thin branch that exceeds my roof line.

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2792667

>>2792317
>he doesnt use an axe
do ou also piss sitting down? i bet you call your shit "poop".

>> No.2792669

>>2792307
the ever increasing tree haters
people just like roasting hot treeless backyards these days

>> No.2792673

House next to us just sold. New owner hasn’t moved in yet, but they’ve chopped down all the trees in the backyard.

People are fucking weird

>> No.2792676

sorry, but all these tree haters deserve to be chopped into pieces

>> No.2792685

Exactly how insecure does one have to be to not piss sitting down?



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2792305 No.2792305 [Reply] [Original]

>>https://archive.org/details/lawnmower_202001/page/n5/mode/2up?view=theater
greetings,
i bought a second hand mower and its giving me somewhat trouble.
First of all, it never ran right since i bought it a few weeks back.
filter and plug were replaced. I had to change the throttle as the plastic one broke and since it never ran right it obviously needs a carb readjustment.
The manual says adjust throttle cable (green circle) until the screw (missing, red circle) touches the casting. Since the screw is gone i have no fucking idea what the factory setting here is for the governor tension.
Step two would be to lean the engine (screw orange circle) until the revs drop and then turn back half a turn, but if i lean the engine with full throttle it will rev way past 4000 rpm an i know this is not safe to do

How the fuck do i readjust this? what is the proper order here? Also, how does this thing choke itself when cool?
The engine is a 185cc 3hp L head

>> No.2792541

>>2792305
I can help you as long as you give me the information I ask for and take pictures of what I request.
First things I need from you are:
who makes that? looks like briggs & stratton.
the model number which is a series of number stamped in to the cover. could be on the top near the spark plug, could be on the sides, could be on the side opposite the spark plug.

I think that is a pulse a jet carb.

>> No.2792659
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2792659

>>2792541
i figured anyone who know their stuff could recognize it at a glance
its a briggs 94500 series, 3.5hp
i too think the carb has a diaphragm pump, but i think that part is fine. starts on half a pull and guzzles fuel.